This post was updated on February 28, 2024
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Update 2024
The Armstrong Clark Wood stain has been a solid performer since we started reviewing and using it about 12 years ago. We really like how it penetrates deep into the wood grain and applies easily. Reapplication is simple as needed with a good deck cleaner for the prep. One thing we have noticed is to make sure you do not over apply. You want the AC to soak completely into the wood for the best results.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Review Below
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is an oil-based stain backed by 5 generations of experience in the exterior wood stain industry. Armstrong Clark is offered in 3 different versions: Trans parents, Semi-Transparent, and Semi-Solid Colors.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are composed of drying and non-drying oils that separate during the application process. The drying oils cure and protect the exposed surface of the wood from natural weathering and UV radiation while the non-drying oils condition the interior of the wood by lubricating the wood cellular structure.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
Armstrong Clark Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
– The Armstrong Clark showed a rich deep enhanced color after application. The natural grain of the wood showed throughout the deck surface. The Mountain Cedar color was a “tannish” cedar color.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Photos
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar offered better than average UV protection. When using a semi-solid stain we expected to achieve excellent UV protection and the Mountain Cedar delivered. We would expect that the semi-transparent and transparent colors to offer slightly less UV protection due to the lesser amount of solids.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain had little to no peeling. The only wearing of the stain was on the steps. This most likely was the result of the homeowner’s dogs.
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– Armstrong Clark sells for $41.99 per gallon for the semi-solids ($36.99 for semi-transparent). This is an average price for a quality deck stain. We found that Armstrong Clark has one of the best square foot coverages. For our 600 square foot test deck, we used only 2.5 gallons of stain for the required one coat. The final appearance was even with no noticeable bare spots.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 7
– The Armstrong stain did have some very minor mold spores on top of the stain. On further inspection, it seemed that the mold was not growing in the stain and could easily be wiped off with a wet towel.
Ease of Application: 9
– Extremely easy to apply! Armstrong’s manufacturer states that their stain can be applied in direct sunlight. We tested our application at 90 degrees in full sun. We did not experience any flash drying or unevenness of the stain. No noticeable drips on the vertical railings.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar darkened slightly in color from the original application. Most likely due to the high solid content of the semi-solid stain.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain would be an easy product to recoat after a light cleaning. The stain does not darken and penetrates extremely well. Key factors when it comes to reapplications.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.2
– Armstrong Clark performed at a high level after the two-year mark. Our favorite aspects of the stain were the ease of application and the coverage rate. There was very little to no peeling of the stain and color-shifting was acceptable. We would expect that applying a maintenance coat would be easy with a wood cleaning and wood brightening.
Product Information:
More Info: ArmstrongClarkStain.com
Cost: $51.99 per Gallon, $259.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Mountain Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain Review Video
Deck Stain Help & Questions
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This is Natural Oak Stain. Looks amazing and was really easy to apply after cleaner/brightener!
Looks great!
Our deck is 4 years old. We applied AC semi-transparent stain fairly soon after it was built (I told my husband we needed to let it dry, but he wouldn’t listen!!). It looked really beautiful. The following year we applied another coat of stain and it still looked great! The following year all the horizontal or flat surfaces became really dark, almost black. He wanted to stain it again that year, but we decided to wait until this year to see what happened. Now, we have parts where the stain has come off completely and others that are still dark (the top of the handrails are dark as is the top of a bench and some of the floor boards). We have no idea where to start on getting this ready to stain again. We used AC semi-transparent chestnut and had so many people comment on how beautiful it was. Also, we used rebar for the spindles, which we painted with a rust proof paint, so we need a product that won’t harm those. Any tips you can give would be greatly appreciated.
Strip and brighten with Restore A Deck Stripper kits and then reapply the AC stain. After, use the RADGuard. Apply this on top of the cured AC stain. This would help to keep any mildew away and darkening the stain.
Good morning. We are planning on staining our deck next month. Looking for best product(s) you would recommend based off of the info below and photo attached. Solid stain or transparent? Looking to have a more natural look but also hoping for minimum maintenance if possible.
Thank you for you help in advance!
Anna
Prep with a deck cleaner and a wood brighener kit. Try the RAD Kits:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
Stain with the Armstrong Clark Stain for this: http://www.armstrongclarkstain.com
Quick follow-up question – what is the best way to apply? Roller, brush, sprayer?
Stain pads and brushes: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/brushes-pads-sprayers
Hi! I am located in Northern NY. I have 33 year old pressure treated decking that gets lots of wind and full afternoon sun. It’s still in good shape. I have always used semi transparent stain. Flood-PPG products only seem to last 2 years. What would be your suggestion for cleaner and semi transparent stain that might last a bit longer?
Thank you for your help.
Remove the old stains first by stripping and brightening. Try the Armstrong Clark stains after.
My deck is treated pine, 15 years old, has some mold and dirt and needs washing. I have found someone to powerwash it. What else do I need to do? I want to stain and have it look as natural as possible and don’t know which product to use. I appreciate any advice you can offer. Thanks
Armstrong Clark is an excellent stain for this. We would suggest that.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/
Which one would look most like the grated pine and should it be oil-based or water-based. The deck is mostly in the shade if that makes any difference.
There is no way for us to offer color advice as we do not know what you want it to be when done. Best to order some samples from the AC site so you can test them. AC is oil-based.
We are building a 1000 sq ft timber frame pavilion. The wood is douglas fir (not treated). The timbers were cut approximately 2 months ago. How long should I wait before I apply a semi-transparent stain? Do you recommend I use Armstrong Clark or TWP transparent stain?
See here for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Both brands are excellent.
We refinished our deck with AC semi-transparent Sierra Redwood in April 2020 and have been very happy with the results. It is still beading water but starting to show wear. Full Florida sun all year. I want to do a maintenance coat. I have the RAD brightener, but not the cleaner.
1. Can I use a different gentle cleaner, then the brightener, before I recoat?
2. After I use a cleaner, can I just wash off with the hose or do I need to pressure wash?
thanks!
1. No, you need a proper deck cleaner and then a brightener. Best to use the same brand with prep products.
2. Light pressure wash off. Hose off will not suffice.
Finished application of Stain Color:: Semi-Trans
Cedar on my rough sawn cedar fence about 6 hours ago, it feels dry to the touch now. -To me it doesn’t look like cedar color at all – It looks more like sort of a reddish brown and much darker than cedar. Is that normal? I’m not a fan at this point – Any chance it will lighten up soon so I can have a color somewhere around the posted color? I hope so. If it will.\, how long does it normally take?
Thank you much for your reply.
Colors will always vary based on wood type, age of the wood, prep of the wood, and application method. Colors do fade through the years.
Also, rough sawn wood always stains darker as it is much more absorbent then smooth wood. Armstrong does offer samples to test on your wood prior to ordering.
Which Graco X5 sprayer tip would you recommend for the Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain? I asked Armstrong and they said any fan tip would work. Just curious if you have an experienced suggestion.
Sorry but no idea. We don’t use airless sprayers for applying.
i sanded the deck to remove previous solid stain or paint – photo is post sanding, of a section of the deck. My question is, can I apply semi directly on it … or should I use a cleaner and/or brighter first? I’ve used rustic brown at our last house and really likes it. So I’m planning to use it on this deck. Thanks for your help. I appreciate all the info you provide.
The pic shows you still have a stain on the wood?
It was dark brown/reddish solid stain applied by the previous owner, that I sanded off. We got the house last spring and I’m told the deck is 12 yrs old. Would you suggest RAD deck stripper at this point? Or is there some other way to get the rest off?
I really wanted to go with AC rustic brown; it was so easy to apply and durable on our last house’s deck.
Would I be ok to use RAD stain stripper at this point to get the rest off? It was vey dark reddish brown colour that I sanded off. We got the house last year and the pt deck is about 11 yrs old. I wanted to use AC rustic brown. I used it on the deck of our last house and it was easy to apply and maintain.
Strippers will not remove a solid stain fully. It will remove some or possibly a lot but sanding will be needed to get it all off prior to using a semi-transparent like the AC stains.
Would you think it would be safe on the wood to apply the RAD stripper at this point (since I already sanded), and then sand again what it didn’t remove? Or would you recommend I keep sanding to remove as much as possible (without using the stripper)? I’d like to try an AC product and not put a solid. I appreciate your insight.
Strip what you can and then sand the rest off. Use both RAD Stripper additives as well.
Let me rephrase that. What tip orifice size did you use on the AC semi-transparent? Thank you in advance!
😀
We used a pump sprayer with a fan tip and they do not come in “orifice” sizes. Really any tip should work, just test a couple.
Hello, I’m looking to strip and stain my cedar deck. I will be using a stripper, brightened and sanding any furring with 80 grit sandpaper as my stain prep. Question is: having trouble deciding between Armstrong Clark (AC) black walnut and rustic brown. I want to go darker on my cedar. Do you have suggestions for choosing between the two colors? Any pictures? Thank you
Both are very nice colors. See here for some photos: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/armstrong-clark-photo-album
Those pictures are very helpful! In fact, I’m reconsidering going so dark to start and maybe finding a midway point. Maybe natural oak (on cedar). Based on the pics it looks nice. Plus, I can always go darker if needed. Thank you for your help!
what do you think of AC natural oak on cedar?
We like the Natural Oak color on all wood types.
Hi there! I have a yellow cedar deck and every semi transparent stain I have ever chosen always ends up looking bright orange in the sunlight (but fine in the shade). I have always used Sikkens (now Sico Proluxe). I am looking for a simple light or medium brown stain but don’t know how to avoid this orange undertone. Once again I have my deck cleaned, stripped of old stain, sanded and ready to go….and I don’t want to make the same mistake yet again! I am in British Columbia. Thanks in advance!
Try Armstrong Clark or TWP 200 Series in a brown color.
Rustic Brown in the Armstrong is a great brown color.
Can you post pictures? We have a cedar deck and every stain we have used so far our deck ends up amber colored. I’m tired of it and looking to go more brown.
I have an idea but I don’t want to do anything wrong.. We bought our house 3 years ago and our deck is in ruff shape. Where do I start? Clean and brighten or stripping. Pressure wash, sand then stain? Thank you
Clean and brighten while pressure washing. No need to sand. Stain after.
I applied AC semi trans Natural oak on my cedar deck in July 2021. I am seeing quite a bit of wear/tear at our entrance already in February 2022 (6 months). Is there anything I can do to prevent this in the future? Or is this the reality of a semi trans stain on a softwood cedar deck?
Looks like you have a lot of traffic there so it is wearing. Also shoveling the deck will damage the stain as well.
Not much you can do to prevent this. Best to just clean and recoat the floors as needed. The rails will last many years.
Ok — thanks. Hoped it would hold up a little better but entrance and snow in VT is our reality!
If I have to RAD clean and stain this one horizontal area once every Spring, what is best method? (Circled in photo). Meticulously garden pump spray of RAD clean so as not to hit other areas? When I have done in the past RAD clean always seems to remove most of the stain as well as clean — try less of a concentration? Less scrubbing?
Thanks.
Yes, you can use the cleaner at 1/2 strength and wash with a soft brush like a car wash brush.
Thank you so much. Just 4 follow-up questions:
1) To clarify, RAD bag says “mix 2/3 to 1 cup powdered cleaner per gallon of water.” I would assume 1/2 strength of their lower end suggestion might be wise, correct? Therefore, 1/3 cup per gallon?
2) I am also thinking applying the solution from a bucket to the wet deck using soft brush will avoid pump sprayer overspray onto other areas like my vertical railings. Would that be your suggestion?
3) I assume I will have to clean the outer deck rim joist (even though it doesn’t need new stain) first so I don’t get cleaning drip marks running down from the horizontal deck surface. Or will the lower concentration of cleaner make that a non-issue?
4) if I also want to do a light clean of the rest of the deck in the spring would you recommend a product like “wet n’ forget?” Something else?
Thanks again. -Chris
1. Yes.
2. No, just control your spray when applying. Much easier. We never mop on prep products.
3. Not sure, could have runs on side.
4. No. Wet and Forget does not clean. Use mild dish soap and warm water.
Great. Thank you. As always, super helpful.
I used a “boat brush” — maybe little stiffer than car wash brush? It still looked like I was removing a bit of stain at the reduced concentration of RAD cleaner. Does this look okay for sting and then staining with a cot or two?
First pictures are of how much stain was coming off and final pictures were after a little scrubbing and then rinsing.
Thank you.
Hard to say while wood is wet.
Will take a picture when it is dry — stain seemed to loosen up inconsistently even though I applied and scrubbed evenly with 1/2 concentration — hope that is okay. I’m always confused why the stain gets removed at all with just a cleaning.
It is normal.
Here is the dry deck after RAD clean and brighten — stain a little unevenly removed but sounds like that might be okay?
When you previously said stain removal is normal with cleaning I wasn’t sure if that was also referring to it being removed inconsistently also being normal. Is it?
As long as you are using the same or darker color then it will blend. Prepping and how much comes off during cleaning is determined on how the stain has deteriorated through the years. No deck cleaner will just leave a stain completely intact unless the stain was just applied.
This AC semi trans natural oak stain has only been on deck for half a year — we are redoing because it wore off so significantly near our door where we walk (and have to shovel during VT winters). As shown in pics at start of thread.
Would an AC semi solid like Oxford Brown be any more durable (than the AC semi trans natural oak)? Does the soft nature of cedar factor in?
Recoating yearly is a tough pill to swallow when it involves all the prep and work. Not to mention not using that door for the few days it take me to time prep, staining, and weather window shenanigans.
I so appreciate all your insight. Even the one liners :)
A semi-solid will give better UV protection from fading but will not matter with wear and tear, especially shoveling.
Honestly our walking is what does the majority. I shovel just as much in other areas and they haven’t worn at all.
Guess we need trex or something synthetic for our entry if we don’t want to stain every season.
Thanks again — doing this today.
I am planning to skip the brightening as I am just doing a maintenance coat in this one area pictured above. It sounded like that is okay and I’ll just rinse well after a gentle scrub of the restore a deck cleaner.
and hopefully stain in a few days if the weather cooperates!
You need to brighten to neutralize the cleaner and restore the pH balance.
I thought for maintenance coat one could just clean and stain — that is what I was told before.
Well, deck has stayed wet with light rain solid that is helpful. If you are saying it must be brightened, hopefully a couple hours later is okay?
Yes, that is okay.
I like the color. Would you describe it as a medium brown on the cedar? Hard to tell in photos.
I just wanted to suggest an outdoor rug for the high traffic area might cut down on the wear and tear by the door.
Yes, I think it would be accurate to call the Natural Oak semi trans a medium brown.
Thanks for the suggestion — I think an outdoor rug on the high traffic area could help! I think the winter grit from our gravel driveway probably does the most damage.
Well, a deck is meant to be used so…
I just ordered a sample of the natural oak to try. I like the color on your deck. Thanks for sharing your pictures
Right?! Well, I want to use it but not have to stain it once a season — I could even handle once a year!
The combo of soft cedar and high traffic is no match for Vermont winters.
We have a full log white cedar house that is about 30 yrs old. We have been using TWP on it for about 7 yrs now. For the most part it has worked great. We get 3 yrs on the deck (full sun in Michigan) and 4 to 5 yrs on the walls. The west wall get the most weather and full sun so that needs it every 4 yrs. Do you thnk AC would do better?
Not better, about the same.
hi, have older deck that i tteated with cabot gold oil 3 years ago. i powerwashed it last year using a cleaner and in places a stripper as the person i hired had npot removed the previous dark stain.
it went thr this past year with nothing but i noticed a lot of mildew and black spots.
i then used paramonts deck cleaner but having read the lack of waterproofing decided to use cabot again so cleaned with theirs. I also stripped a few previously stained areas that had been missed.
Now I see mildew in the grain and sanding with a palm sander has not removed it. Its hard to know what to do at this poin t, but I thought to ask you before I try anything else.
I live in Iowa . Half my deck is full sun , the rest has some shading from the house.
I am exhausted from doing all this and still have unsighyly green and black mold stains…help!!
Post some pictures below your comments.
I just had my deck re-built. All except a couple of posts were replaced. The old posts have a solid stain. I would like to stain the rest of the deck. How long do I need to wait and what is the best way to treat the wood so that the stain lasts and what is the best stain to use?
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
We bought a house that has a nice front porch. The deck, railings, and spindles are pressure treated wood, unsealed and probably 10-15 years old. All the materials are in good shape, give or take a couple of areas that are easily replaced. Can we stain this older untreated PT wood?
Yes. The Armstrong stain would work very well. Make sure to prep well.
hi, I built a IPE Deck last summer. I would like to seal it with clear sealer. 250 sq ft. please recommend a product.
Look at one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
My 5 yr.-old mahogany deck has had 2 applications of Arborcoat water-based semi-transparent stain applied (2 1/2 yrs. since the last application) and it’s now flaking is spots and needs to be re-stained. I am thinking of switching to use Armstrong’s Amber semi-transparent oil-based Hardwood deck stain, and ask what deck preparation is needed to apply the new semi-transparent oil-based stain over the old semi-transparent water-based stain? Is power-washing recommended, plus orbital sanding? Is any other solvent needed? I want to make sure the deck is “prepped” correctly for best results. Also, should I expect that I will have to re-stain every 2 years, or will your oil stain last longer than the water-based stain I was using? Thanks for any info.
Post a picture.
Here’s the deck at present.
Strip and brighten this for prep. Your wood type requires an annual application.
here’s the deck in current condition…
This is the best stain product by far. We’ve used it on both our current and prior home. Each with two levels of decking over 1200 sf. We made sure the wood was correctly prepared, clean and dry. It’s important to thoroughly mix the stain before starting the day for even coating. We were very impressed with the quality of the product, from the application to the durability and look years after. Both our decks face south east. We live in Michigan.
Hello. I am new to deck repairs. We purchased a house 3-years ago but have not done any maintenance to it. We are finding some rotted deck boards that I’m replacing now. The deck is 8 ft. above ground, 16 ft. X 20 ft. made of PT pine. All deck boards are grey and splitting. I have done some research on oils, restoring, and sealing product. I’m sold on Armstrong Clark Semi-Trans stain because of the non-drying oils to help the wood.
We live in a wooded/wilderness area and try to use natural Products.
1. What type of cleaners can I safely use?
2. What do cleaners do to the wood?
3. I’ve never used stain, do I apply it like paint to cover all cracks and hide all view of wood?
4. My deck is old and very dry, how will I know if my deck needs to drink up a second coat and when should it be applied?
5. Since your stain has drying oils that stay on top of wood and non-drying oils that soak down into the wood, how can non-drying oils get through that top non-drying oils when I re-coat?
6. Can I stain posts and get the oils to soak in?
Thank you for your help.
You have a solid stain on your deck and you cannot apply the AC over it and it cannot be stripped off. You will need a solid stain again. Look at one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hi, I just moved into a new house about 2 months back and the deck (screened in porch) was installed around dec/jan time frame. It’s pine wood. I am wondering if AC transparent stain will be a wise option since we dont want to add color to the deck and like the natural color or lighter tone. The deck is covered so wondering if transparent will hold up well for some years. Other option seems like semi- transparent natural oak but it your pictures it looks very dark.
Yes, that should work.
so transparent?
Yes, if that is the look you want.
and any suggestions on water based stain
Restore-A-Deck stains.
also any recommendations for just a sealer for pine?
They rate Armstrong Clark and Twp 1500 top rated stains and I know you speak highly of both , but if you were doing your deck and had to use one and only one which one would it be?
Both are excellent and I have used both on my personal deck. Here is AC Natural Oak after 3 years.
They rate Armstrong Clark and Twp 1500 best stains and I know you speak highly of them both , but if you were doing your deck and had to use one and only one which one would you use??
Can a second coat of the Armstrong Semi solid stain be applied? First coat on a 18 year old deck was absorbed and some areas appear lighter than others. Deck was stripped down to bare wood before applying.
Yes, just make sure it is a light coat.