How to Stain Rough Sawn-Cut Lumber  4.7/5 (84)

This post was updated on March 5, 2024

Working with rough-sawn lumber is a little bit different from staining and preserving smooth wood, but in either case, it’s important to follow the proper steps to get a long-lasting finish. At DeckStainHelp.com, we’re experts at wood deck restoration, and we’re always glad to help homeowners with their exterior wood projects. Read our tips for staining rough-sawn wood and you should have no trouble with the task! But if you have any questions, feel free to leave us a comment and let us help you.

Rough Sawn Deck Trim

Rough Sawn Deck Trim

What Is Rough-Cut Lumber?

Rough-textured wood, also known as rough-sawn lumber, is wood that is used as originally cut: It has not been smoothed out or sanded like most lumber is. It’s becoming a more popular type of wood for homeowners and is commonly used for exterior wood fences, decking trim, and house trim. Typical wood types used are cedar and pine.

Can You Stain Rough-Sawn Wood?

Yes! Rough-sawn lumber is a bit more difficult to stain than smooth-textured wood, but it does not have to be an overwhelming task. Just make sure to choose a wood stain that is designed specifically for porous woods: Stay away from hardwood stains and film-forming-type stains.

How Do You Finish and Protect Rough-Sawn Wood?

A penetrating semi-transparent deck finish is the best choice for rough-sawn wood because it will soak into the wood better, penetrating and sealing its pores.

What’s the Best Way to Stain Rough-Cut Lumber? Application Tips

  • When dealing with rough-sawn cedar or pine, it’s important to prepare the wood prior to staining. If the wood is new, you can skip this step. Otherwise, start by using a wood cleaner to break loose any dirt, grime, and gray fibers. Then, wash the wood surface with a stiff brush or pressure washer. Be careful not to use excessive pressure that could damage the wood surface. After using a wood cleaner, a wood brightener should be applied to neutralize the pH level and brighten the wood back to its original appearance. Note: If the wood is new, no prepping is needed and staining can be done right away.
  • Once the wood dries following the cleaning, it’s time to stain. Check your local weather forecast and make sure that it’s not supposed to rain for the next 12 to 24 hours. It’s also best to apply wood stain when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees. It should not drop below 32 degrees within 8 hours of staining. And try not to stain in direct sunlight.
  • To stain rough-cut lumber, you can use a brush and/or roller. A brush is good at getting into corners and cutting in along edges. If you use a roller, a ¾” nap is best for pushing stain into the rough surface. Mask off any areas you do not want stained, and stain one board or section at a time to eliminate lap marks. If the wood seems really thirsty, you can apply two “wet on wet” coats if the stain you are using allows it.
  • You can also apply stain to rough-sawn wood using a pump or airless sprayer. Spraying the stain can allow it to get into the rough texture of the surface with less effort than brushing or rolling. Just be sure to mask any windows, siding, concrete, and other surfaces in the area.
  • Our favorite method for staining rough-cut cedar or pine is to use both approaches. First, lightly spray on the first coat with a pump sprayer. This will absorb deeply, giving a nice base coat. We then follow up with a stain pad or brush to apply a second coat right away. This will ensure nice, even coverage.
  • Always follow the instructions on the label of the stain you are using.
  • Wear proper personal protection.
  • Depending on the brand of stain you use, use mineral spirits or soapy water to clean up all of your equipment and tools after staining.

Rough Sawn Wood Stain Colors

Have a Question on Staining Rough Sawn Wood? Ask Below!

Please Rate This. You may also post comments or ask questions below.

author avatar
Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993
#As an article and comment contributor to the site, Scott has been around the pressure washing industry since attending college. In 1993 he started his first company called Oakland Pressure Wash specializing in exterior pressure washing and deck staining. That company evolved into OPW L.L.C. shortly thereafter concentrating more on exterior wood and deck restoration. Scott and his Deck Cleaning Michigan company have restored over 10,000 decks in the Metro Detroit area since the early years. He has become an authority in the deck restoration industry and has contributed to numerous wood restoration forums and informative sites. All the products he suggests through this site are sold through online sites and in retail stores, allowing the consumer to choose their own means of purchase. Scott’s eCommerce sites do sell many top brands he endorses and if you appreciate any of the help he has offered then feel free to purchase from one of them.

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bnoy
bnoy
23 days ago

any idea how can you remove paint from stained raw cedar? thanks

Steve
Steve
1 month ago

Hello Scott, I have rough sawn pine boards that i will be installing over drywall in the living area of my carriage house. Any suggestions on how, and what to treat the boards with?

Lisa
Lisa
1 month ago

I am staining a rough sawn pine fireplace mantel. Any suggestions on stain…oil or water based? After rolling or brushing on the stain, do I try to rub it off with a rag? Any other tips? Thank you.

Aaron
Aaron
1 month ago

What stain did you use to get the “dark oak on rough cut lumber” picture above? Thanks!

Aaron
Aaron
1 month ago

Thanks!

DENIS
DENIS
5 months ago

I’m using two oil based stains (Chestnut then Gray) to stain rough sawn pine board and would like to apply a sealer. The board will be used as exterior trim. Any recommendations on the type of sealer that can be used. I’m hesitant to use tung oil due to the drying time and number of coats. I’d like to complete this before temps in NJ drop below freezing, a few weeks at best. Considered water based spar urethane but I’m concerned about the effectiveness of sanding rough sawn wood between coats. Thanks!

DENIS
DENIS
5 months ago

Scott, thanks for the reply. Are you aware of any finish I can apply to oil based stained pine boards that are being used as exterior trim. I’m using Varathane oil based penetrating wood stain. I’m trying to improve their water resistance and longevity. Thanks

Zane
Zane
5 months ago

I have a piece of pine that is at least 50 years old, never used. Dried in a barn attic with some sun bleach areas that I don’t care for but I love the rough saw marks on it and want to use it for a fireplace mantle. How can I stain it if it’s rough? Wiping off stain on a rough surface and should I condition it first?

Randy
Randy
9 months ago

I want to protective my new-last-Fall rough-cut cedar raised planter beds and fencing with clear stain. I’ve heard conflicting statements about whether the wood needs sanding before staining. Your opinion?

Pmmhof
Pmmhof
10 months ago

We have the typical red cabin with green roof and trim. Even the Anderson window trim is green. I’m tired of this look.
can the red be stained a different color without sanding the entire cabin? It is rough sawed siding with knots.

Jamie
Jamie
11 months ago

I have a tall cathedral ceiling that is covered in rough cedar and over the years I just got sick of the orange look and I want to have it painted. Can this be spray painted by a professional?

Wilson
Wilson
11 months ago

Wilson

Hi! I want to install natural wood, put stain and two coats of oil-based in my house.
My question is! Can I do it for interior floors or not?
Thanks.

Dave
Dave
1 year ago

Hi I’ve built a barn out of old hand hune beams, I would like to stain my new rough sawn pine boards with a grey stain that has the look of weathered grey , having a hard time finding a product that has the right tone , question I I stain with a light grey ,either oil or preferably water based will the pine weather or darken with time? I t+ g all the boards so would like to stain them before installing
Thanks Dave

Mardi
Mardi
1 year ago

How do you suggest removing water stains on interior cedar tongue and groove ceiling boards? my roof leaked and now I have water marks. I would prefer to keep the would its natural cedar color vs staining it to cover up the water marks. Any suggestions? I realize you have been discussing decks, but thought I would ask.

Thank you.

Kally
Kally
1 year ago

Help! We stained are rough cut pine beams with SW oil based semi transparent in 2017 with the color Yankee Barn. We like the red color then but want a more dark walnut or espresso look to it and get rid of the red color. We have over 3,000 sq of decking around the whole house and really dont want to have to sand but don’t like the look of solid stain either. Can we use a darker oil based stain in maybe a semi solid? SW only had water based semi solid, would that matter? Please help!

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Les.
Les.
1 year ago

Wanting to stain bandsawn pine beams Have tested a few water based stains but it’s coming out way to dark and looks like paint. Wanting a light color of grayish brown. Any ideas?

Richard Berti
Richard Berti
1 year ago

Is it acceptable to sand rough sawn barn board just a little to get rid of the loose fibers which give a rougher look than I would like and make it difficult to brush on stain. I will be installing Board and Batten to my whole house.

Anne Erikson
Anne Erikson
1 year ago

Hi,
I am having a shed built and am looking for the proper stain product for the door. The door is made from T1-11 and is rough plywood. I need a deep, rich chocolate brown color. I live in Colorado at 7300 feet so need it to protect from sun, wind and snow. I have looked at all kinds of products and just can’t make a decision because there seems to be no consensus. TWP got good reviews I think, but you can’t buy it in a store and I don’t want to take a chance buying it online. Cabot, Penofin, Messmers, Ready Seal are all products I’ve come across. I can’t get the workers in the stores to be of real help either. They don’t seem to really know. I bought Old Masters from a paint store because the guy said it was great for my needs. Got home and read the label….it’s a interior stain. Ugh!! I appreciate any help!

Rodney
Rodney
1 year ago

Says best to stain rough lumber (cypress & pine) 60-80°. It won’t be that for couple months. What temp can I do it and still get good results?

Matt Owen
Matt Owen
1 year ago

Hi Scott- what a great resource!
I am planning to rebuild a mantle area in home in Colorado and lust looking at my DIY options. I found some pretty affordable true 2″ by 12″ rough sawn cedar beams but they are sort of dirty and I am not sure if I can get them into good shape… from reading other responses here, I’m thinking I could pressure wash them and then use the restore A deck products to clean and brighten them up?

Joe
Joe
1 year ago

I have rough sawn pine mantle and fireplace sides. We put Minwax semi-transparent oil based stain on. It’s been 4 days and there are still spots that look damp/tacky. We had fans on it trying to get it to dry, but still the same issue. Is there any way to speed up the process?

Mike Fettinger
Mike Fettinger
1 year ago

building a rough-cut hardwood log beam cabin, (ash & oak) looking for a stain and preservative product.

Mike Fettinger
Mike Fettinger
1 year ago

spoke with TWP tech support, they said to age the cabin 4 months before applying, seems like a long time with no protection. How does woodrich timber oil compare to TWP

Paul Wheeler
Paul Wheeler
1 year ago

I just had a 4 season room installed on the. Ack of my house. They wrapped the beam with rough sawn cedar. Do I need to seal it or can I just leave it? Being it won’t be in weather will it turn gray or black over time?

Sarah
Sarah
1 year ago

We bought a house with cedar siding on parts of the exterior… we don’t know what kind of stain, seal or conditioner has been applied. We just finished using a cleaner and pressure washing it, which removed a lot of dirt. It looks dry and old still, what can we do to freshen it up and give it a healthier look?

Greg Awai
Greg Awai
1 year ago

My house has rough sawn cedar siding and the stain has gone in the sunny spots, can you help me find the right process and product to restore it where it is sun damaged?

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Beth B
Beth B
1 year ago

Help! Part of our home is rough sawn cedar which was painted with a semi transparent acrylic stain by previous owner (our best guess – we do not have the can). A contractor power washed it to remove the stain with limited success. About 50% of the stain is gone; some of the remaining stain is peeling in thin ribbons. My husband says if you sand the rough sawn cedar it will destroy its character. However, he would like to coat this with a semi transparent Oil base stain for easier maintenance going forward. Everything we’ve read said you have to completely remove the old stain first. How can we successfully remove the old stain before coating the rough sawn cedar with a semi transparent oil base stain?

Beth B
Beth B
1 year ago
Reply to  Beth B

Here’s a photo

image.jpg
Beth B
Beth B
1 year ago

Great advice! The RAD stripper works well. However, after stripping the railings around the deck, we realize this is a labor-intensive, expensive job. But we have roughly 500 ft.² of the cedar siding to go. Can I lightly sand the loose stain and apply a solid, water-based stain over this to avoid stripping it all?

Greig
Greig
1 year ago

Hello! I’ve built a western red cedar deck, I live in the northwest were it is very rainy but decks also suffer from a lot of UV. I’m really struggling to decide on the best coating to keep my cedar looking like natural cedar but still protecting it :( I would love for it to look just like wet cedar. I’m happy to pressure wash and reapply something every year if that’s what will give me the desired result. Any recommendations?

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