This post was updated on February 26, 2024
Penofin Red Label Deck Stain Review
Here at DeckStainHelp.com, we are proud of the fact that we have become the Internet’s number one reference for your deck stain opinions and reviews. We thank you for your continued support. Our customers who have used Penofin Ultra Red Label Wood Stain continue to give mixed reviews for 2024. The stain is easy to apply, but is prone to UV damage and turning black down the road. If you have used Penofin Ultra Red Label Wood Stain, we would like to hear what you think, so feel free to leave a comment below and pictures of your completed projects if you have them.
Important Note: This is our 2nd Review of Penofin Ultra Red Label Wood Stain.
See Here for First Review: Penofin Ultra Red Label Wood Stain Review
Penofin Ultra Premium Red Label wood stain is perfect where rain, wind, snow, or high elevations are encountered. The formula in Ultra Premium Red Label wood stain is the result of extensive testing, and the use of the highest quality ingredients. Penofin wins the “Battle Of The Stains” penetration tests over all competitors and gives longer life to wood of any species. Easy to apply and simple to maintain.
Penofin Ultra Red Label Wood Stain Ratings (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 10
The cedar color on the cedar wood is one of our favorite tints. It does not add too much “orange” as some of the other decking stains we have tested. In our opinion, Penofin stains give one of the best-finished appearances to wood once dry.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 5
The Penofin Red Label had lost about 50% of the tint. This was hard to tell as the majority of the stained had blackened in color. The areas that had not darkened (rails and other verticals) showed the most fading.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
Penofin has always had great penetration abilities. This is one of the best characteristics of their stains. Only wearing that showed was water drainage from the gutters above.
Cost Per Square Foot: 7
We used 4 gallons of stain for one coat on the newer cedar decking. The deck sq. footage was a little under 600 sq. feet.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 5
The mold was growing in the Penofin Red Label stain. On further inspection, the mold was under “or” in the stain. About 50% of the stain had mold growing even though the deck was in full sun.
Ease of Application: 6
The application is easy with Penofin. The issue is the smell during application. It has a very strong odor and the homeowner complained that it did not go away for a few weeks after we finished.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 3
Turned a dark dirty looking brown color after a couple of years.
The Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
One thing we have found as contractors are that Penofin is easily removable with a deck stain stripper. Just apply and lightly pressure wash off. All of the old dark Penofin Stain will come off without issues. Apply a brightener when done.
Overall Score Penofin Ultra Red Label Wood Stain at 2 Year Period: 6.5
Looks great and applies easily. Unfortunately, it turns a dark color from the UV radiation. Our test results on this review were slightly lower than the first that was completed in 2008. We have found that Penofin has shown a history of the stain turning black.
Penofin Wood Stain Photo Issues
Product Information:
Help or Questions? Google Search Penofin Stain
Cost: $49.99 per Gallon, $234.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Rosewood Oil-Based
Available Colors: Clear, Cedar, Western Red Cedar, Sable, Chestnut, Sierra, Redwood, Bark, Hickory, Mission Brown
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat.
Coverage Per Gallon: 200+
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in all States
Manufacturer: Penofin
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Newer Cedar Decking
Deck Square Footage: 600 Square feet
UV Exposure: Full sun. South Exposure.
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience as wood restoration contractors. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
I would second many of the comments in the thread. I have used various Penofin finishes on Western Red Cedar and Ipe. Within six months the exposed surfaces develop black mildew. This is particularly evident on Ipe decking. The Ipe cleans up well (using Penofin cleaner) and the stain looks amazing when applied but it rapidly blackens. The Western red cedar is not as exposed as the Ipe but it also blackens with mildew. I am done with this product. Any suggestions for alternatives are welcome.
Any of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
my new cedar deck turned black with mildew 6 months after penofin red label was applied. I am now trying to figure out what to do remedy the problem.
It is a known issue with Penofin. Strip and brighten to remove. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener kits.
Put in Ipe deck 4 yrs ago. Every year cleaned then recoated with Penofin transparent. Started turning dark first year. It’s an even dark so don’t think it’s a mold/sun/shade thing. Looks dull dingy chocolate color. Last year added walkway deck on right side, darkening as well to match deck. Just finished adding platform to outside shower on other side and sure it will do the same. Ipe costs a small fortune and not able to appreciate any of it’s beauty is quite frustrating. If in the spring want to strip and try something else, any suggestions?
Strip and brighten with Restore A Deck prep products and then stain with Restore A Deck Stain in Light Walnut color: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-for-exotic-hardwoods-review/
We put a new cedar deck on about 3 years ago. Cedar flooring and cedar posts with black metal railings. Have only stained it once using Penofin Red Label, it too quickly became black looking, mainly on the floor and in between the cracks. The deck was floor sanded in April of this year but because of the rain we have not been able to restain it yet. But it began looking black in places again so this weekend my husband used a deck cleaner on it, think it was Olympic brand, and it looked great while the deck was still wet. When we got up the next morning to look, it seemed to have what looked like white tissue paper dried to the tops of the boards, heavy in a lot of places, light in others and none in some. What is that and what do we need to do next?
Need pictures posted.
The last 2 pictures I poured a glass of water on one board, you can’t see the white tissue paper stuff on the board when it’s wet.
That is oxidation and mill glaze that you did not remove fully. Redo the cleaning to remove more of it.
Would sanding help? Or better to redo the cleaning? What is mill glaze? And thank you very much for your help, it’s greatly appreciated
You can buff it off. See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
I started using Penofin Red Lable (Western Red Cedar) in 2017. Because another stain was used previously, I stripped the entire deck and used Penofin’s Deck Brightner product on it. Here are some before and after pictures of the 2017 project.I was pleased with the result and the deck held up for three years. My deck is surrounded by trees and it gets heavy sap/mildew buildup.
By 2020, the deck was looking very dirty and mildewed. Instead of using the Penofin cleaning and brightening products, I used 99.6% Sodium Percarbonate for cleaning and Oxylic Acid powder as the deck brightener. I then re-stained the entire deck with Penofin Red Lable Western Red Cedar.Here are some pictures for the re-staining project from 2020.
It’s 2021 and the deck is again looking shabby. It definitely needs re-staining. This time, I used “Oxyclean” as the cleaning solution and will again mix my own batches of Oxylic acid for the brightner. I am going to use up the last 5 gallons of Penofin Red Cedar on it. Though I liked the preformance of Penofin Red Lable, in 2017 to 2020, it didn’t seem to hold up as well this time from the last time I re-stained in 2020. Penofin does recommend yearly washing and re-staining every 2 years. In fairness to them, I’ve never done that which is probably why
the deck looks bad in 2021. I’ll post pictures of the 2021 re-staining project soon.
8 months ago we had a new deck installed with cedar and red label penofin was applied at the time of installation. The deck builders stained it and then installed the lumber. Now, 8 months later it’s starting to turn black in spots. I cleaned the deck and was preparing to reapply more penofin but after reading this article I want to change brands. Will I need to strip the deck down or can I choose another oil-based stain to apply over whatever is left from the penofin?
You will need to strip and then brighten. One good thing about Penofin is that it is an easy strip. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener Kits:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
I live in the PNW and am sort of on a rain clock, I’ve already cleaned the deck, and will have to wait 3-5 days for the RAD stripper to ship, I did find the Defy Stripper in a nearby store, will that work for removing Penofin? Also, would you recommend I remove all of the aluminum railings before proceeding with stripper/brightener/stain? Or do you usually tape those off? (Thanks in advance, your site is incredibly helpful!)
Yes, that will work to remove. Typically, they do not harm the metal spindles so we just leave them on and rinse well when done with water.
Hi. I just purchased a home with log style wood siding. The previous owner used Penofin Red Label on the entire house (in 2008) and it is now dark brown/black and in desperate need of refinishing. Can I use ReStore a Deck on siding and log deck rails? Will the stripper be safe for the wood and not ruin it? What stain do you recommend for horizontal wood siding so it doesn’t darken as we like as close to natural as possible? Thank you!
All stains will enhance or darken if you want UV protection from graying. A clear will do nothing for UV protection. Light tinted stains would be TWP 1515 Honeytone or Restore A Deck in Natural.
For prep, you would want the RAD Stripper with both additives and then the RAD Brightener last: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Thanks for the advice! When I called Penofin to tell them I need to remove the Red Label, they recommended I use their Stain&Sealer line, which uses mineral oil. Have you reviewed this? If not, any thoughts?
We have used all Penofin products and none have worked well.
Thanks! Is it safe to get the restore a deck product on my composite decking? I have log rails and composite flooring. Thanks!
Yes, it will be fine.
Redoing our deck in Minnesota twin cities with new cedar. Gets strong sun in the summer and plenty of snow in the winter. Reviews seem to indicate Penofin works well with snow, but also concerned about the mildew comments. Had mold issues with previous finish which is the reason for rework. Any advice? We’re also considering Defy.
Penofin in turns dark or black in color after a year or so. We do not care for this. Try the Defy Extreme or TWP 100 Series.
Sorry, replied to the wrong post.
My beautiful deck was prepped by professionals and the IPE wood looked beautiful before I applied Red Label Penofin Cedar. Within a few months it turned black. It cost me about $2,500 in total when all was said and done.
Last time I use Penofin on my Ipe deck. Looking for suggestions.
Try the Defy Hardwood stain or Restore A Deck Wood stains.
Do not , I mean do not use this product. I was shocked how bad it looked after it was exposed to the sun. It went a dark grey within a few months. FYI My prep was meticulous. from choosing the right sandpaper to application and ambient temperature. Never use this product on you deck.
Donat O’Brien
Ottawa Ontario
I used the blue label Penofin on my 350 sq Doug fir deck, applying 2-3 coats with roller brushed out. Did not do the bottoms of boards…all boards were prepped, sanded, slight routed edge etc.
Anyway that was the only time I coated the deck. This is Year 15, the deck definitely needs attention thought for a 15 year old Doug fir deck I can only give credit to Penofin. A great product with rosewood oil and of course proper preparation, great recipe for maximizing the life of most of your outdoor wood.
We stained a cedar siding tiny house with Penofin and it looked great at time of application, until the first rainy season. In a period of about 3 months the house went from beautiful to black with splotchy mold everywhere. A lot came off washing with Oxyclean and A LOT of scrubbing, but there are still black stains all over. We are looking into Iron Wood products to clean, brighten and start over with their water based stain. Any other suggestions? Possible Extreme Defy? What would you use to prep this Penofin surface before applying? Hoping to not have to sand the entire house, but will probably need to do some of the particularly smooth areas to remove the black stains. DO NOT USE PENOFIN!!!
Try the Restore a Deck Stripper and brightener kit for the prep. As for the stain, use the Defy Extreme. It is an excellent stain and does very well in preventing mildew.
Thanks for the response. Any tips for protecting windows (glass and metal trim) and metal roofing from Restore a Deck stripper and brightener? Do they need to be masked off with plastic to prevent contact? Almost all sites address decks but not houses.
Best to mask with tape and plastic sheeting to be safe.
Hi there.
I appreciate your feedback on the penofin especially on a tiny home. I too have used the Penofin and after only three weeks I have mold sprouting. Were you successful removing your mold? If so, what did you use?
Thank you in advance for your time,
Rebecca
You have to strip off the Penofin to fix this issue.
We were successful! We followed the advice above, stripped with Restore-a-Deck, and then applied the Defy Extreme back in May 2017. There was no new mold after one year, and we are optimistic as we enter the second rainy season since we redid everything. The penofin was messy to remove, since it was so new, but the Restore-a-Deck was really a good product and got the job done – worth the efforts. You can read all the details on our blog at https://mytinyepiphanies.wordpress.com/ (scroll to the entry from last summer). Good Luck!
We used this product on our brand new cedar deck two years ago. It looked amazing initially but the colour turned black by the end of the summer. We cleaned the deck the following summer & reapplied the stain but this time it went black almost immediately. How do we now strip the stain (we need a stripper that won’t kill the surrounding plants) and what stain should we use instead that will retain its colour better? We are in Canada so I don’t think we have access to Armstrong stains.
Use the Restore a Deck Stain Stripper Kit. Make sure to get the brightener to neutralize. The AC can be shipped. Look at this or Defy Extreme Stain.
Penofin products turned my beautiful redwood deck into black ugly color.
Happens all the time. One good thing about Penofin, it is easily removed. Use the Restore a Deck Stain Stripper kit. Once the wood is restored, try a stain that does not darken over time. TWP or Defy Extreme.
I would not recommend Penofin products to anyone. After following all of the company's recommendations, the products failed to protect my deck. After contacting Penofin and following their cleaning and re-application guidelines,my deck is nearly ruined. To top things off the company won't offer any support to address any Of the issues. Don't waste your time and money with Penofin.
We have a new construction home in Seattle, WA with a rooftop deck and two smaller deck/porches, all cedar. The builder used Penofin Red Label, Mission Brown on all of the vertical cedar surfaces of the home itself. There have been no mold or black issues and frankly, looks great. The wood has weathered for 8 months.
However, after reading many of the reviews, I'm concerned about using the Pen Red on the decks/porches for fear of the mold and black issues. I have used Penofin Step 2 Cleaner which removed a significant amount dirt and grime.
Should I stick with the Penofin to match the rest of the home or think about switching to TWP, maybe Pecan or Cedar Tone?
We would switch. Penofin usually works well on verticals, but can darken on the horizontals.
My deck turns black every year. I live in Vancouver B.C. , Do you think TWP would work to prevent this?
Look at the Armstrong Clark stain.
My wife loved the light bright color of our redwood deck previously treated with Mesmer's UV Plus and didn't want it any darker. So I tried Penofin "Transparent/Clear" last time, being careful to wipe off excess as instructed. Now it's nearly black and I'm in big trouble with her! Has anyone found a chemical strip that works, or is sanding down to fresh wood the only solution? And what products would you folks recommend to try next time?
We all wish we had seen this site before our projects, right?
The Restore A Deck stripper will remove the Penofin. Pressure wash off the stripper then brighten after to neutralize.
THANK YOU! I will try it in the spring, and will report back.
Product went black in exposed areas twice in a row. Complete waste of time and money. Company not responsive to complaints. Will not use again.
Penofin is lije a like to find an amazingly hot women, a gold digger one, it last just for one month.
I can't believe what a mistake I did to apply Penofin over my customer fences, what a mistake, it turn dark going yo black after just a month. I call Penofin customer service they told me to power washer using their cleaner and brightener.
It did not work as I expect color still dark, worse I give a year warranty for this job and even without warranty I can't leave a job that unprofessional using my business name.
I had to sanded all to do use a different product.
Do not waste your time or money, this product should be banned.
Well I have used the Blue labeled Penofin and can say that it has been an absolute NIGHTMARE!!! To begin, I consider myself a skilled painter and bit of a perfectionist, one who pays attention to details. My wife applied Penofin to our new cedar deck last fall, it looked great for a few weeks and by spring it looked like our deck was 30 years old and had been neglected. Thinking we did not follow the directions to a tee I assumed it was our fault. So, we spent nearly 200 man hours sanding every square inch …painful indeed!! I applied the second coat with extreme care to their recommended application methods. It looked awesome when we were done for the second time… ! month later it started to show the same signs and within weeks it looked as bad as the first application. In desperation I when to the lumber yard and they suggested calling tech support at Penofin. They were certain that I did not properly wiped the application after applying. What ever I thought… I wiped it off several times in fear of having repeat results. Penofin tech support recommend "Step 2" cleaner and "Step 3" brightener… $71 dollars later I headed home thinking this would be an easy fix (according to the tech support). It was nearly as painful as sanding!!!! In order to bring the wood back to a none black state required a LOT of elbow grease. The cleaner did work but removed 90% of the finish. Enough babbling… in a nut shell, our new cedar deck ($15,000 invested) now looks like crap! To say the least, I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND PENOFIN TO MY WORST ENEMY!
You all applied it too thick. Instructions are clear in requirin rub off witin a short time of applications. I put two coats on my covered pressure treated deck. Last year I put on another coat. I expect another ten years will pass before another coat.
Tom Foley
Tom,
I beg to differ… I wiped multiple times to ensure all excess stain was removed and still ended up with a terrible mess! It might be that the pressure treated lumber you used prevented excess stain to be absorbed giving you favorable results. As for me and the use of Penofin on our cedar deck it was a disaster!
This is the worst product possible. I would highly recommend staying away from it. The US Government should gave the company officers arrested. I have been in the construction industry for 30 years and never seen anything turn black like this. I nearly ruined my own mahogony deck that cost $10,000 in materials. I restrained this deck twice after being convinced mith Penofin's customer service that I over applied this stain. Finally restatined with an Armstrong Clarke stain and got great results.
What did you use to clean/strip before applying the Armstrong? Same thing happened to me…furious to say the least. After the 1st coat of penofin red label I figured I screwed something up so I cleaned and re-applied only to get the same result. Now I just want to know how to get the product out/off the cedar in order to get the beauty of the wood back. Plan on using Armstrong once clean.
i have never used the red label i always used the blue with really good results…i know one thing after reading all the complaints i'll stick with the blue label…i've used it for years with great results
Same here, I have had great results with the blue label, restain our deck every 6 years or so and its now 20 years old, everyone comments that they can’t believe its that old and still looks great. Never had black issues, get mold every so often but cleans right off with a little water and cleaner.
This is a “penetrating oil” treatment, and not so much a traditional “stain”. It feeds the wood with oil deep within the pores, unlike stain. Therefore, any dirt from pollen, tree sap, nature etc will become absorbed into the oil and therefore the pores making it turn dark. Just like your cars motor oil… It wasn’t that color when you put it in the tranny 5 yes ago. With that being said, Penofin is a great product for folks that have exposed decks with limited dirt (trees), or for folks who wash their decks more often then anyone wants to. Its great for marine environment (boats) and better for vertical surfaces as the dirt does not lay on the surface like it would on a horizontal deck floor. Not that I can offer a solution… You either put a coating on that prevents penetration but comes off, or penetrate the wood with oil and absorb all nature into the oil. If I had a beautiful $10K hardwood deck, I would treat it like a boat and do the brightwork with ipe oil and lots of love…like a boat. Super hard woods like teak and IPE are not as porous, so they do not weather badly. In closing, Penofin works probably as advertised but us consumers or builders need to do the due diligence to realize exactly what the structure is and what it will need to face throughout the year or lifespan.
I've also been a victim of this terrible product. I'm relieved yet frustrated to read these comments. The Penofin Company made me to think they've never heard of such a thing (a terribly darkened deck that looked like walnut). I've spent around 20 hours on my hands and knees using their wood cleaner to pull off exactly what others have described as thick globs of fibrous goo. Almost looks like the consistency of thick moss that has been put in a blender. Our beautiful cedar 500 square foot deck that is less than 2 years old looks ruined. I will not only never use this product again, I am seriously considering legal action. The company's answer was to send me very small 1.6 pound containers of their wood cleaner and brightener. They had the nerve to tell me I shouldn't have run out so quickly when I asked for more. No way could I remove the thick gunk coming up with the dilution they recommended. Rather, I had to spend $40 on a gallon jug to finish the job. And the deck still looks awful. I will have to do it all over again to completely get it all off. I agree with the above comments. Don't ever use this product on cedar!
We have a composite deck with cedar railings. We live in Minnesota and our deck has full sun (southern exposure). Would this product hold up well for just the railings (the spindles are aluminum)? Also, we have a cedar covered porch with northern exposure–how do you think the product would hold up for that?
We would not use it as it tends to turn black. Try TWP 100 Series or Defy Extreme.
Absolutely not! Our deck is also in direct sunlight too and I've been sanding and stripping hundred of cedar spindles all summer as a result of using Penofin! DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT!
no
total waste of time
turns black useless product
I use cetol marine on my railings. It is less technique dependent when applying, requires less coats than a marine spar “varnish” (3-4) and can be easily repaired with some light sanding and another coat (x1) each year or two. Keeps the color well, cleans easily, and the teak shade looks correct. I’ve just finished two banisters and will complete my new addition deck railing with the same to match the original deck design. Easy, and happy. Every solution requires work. Cetol Marine Teak simply requires less
I used this product on a cedar deck and fence in the Seattle area. While it's true that the wood can darken, it's important to understand that it's not the Penofin that's darkening. Cedar contains tannin which is water soluble. If moisture penetrates the wood it will cause the natural tannin in the wood to be drawn to the surface, given it a dark brown or almost black color. I simply use a deck brightener containing oxalic acid to wash off the tannin stains and reveal the wood underneath. After 4 years it looks absolutely amazing, very rich in color almost like a fine hardwood floor. There is not even a hint of graying, and it looks even better than it did the first year.
Mark, glad it worked for you but you are wrong about the Penofin not being the issue with darkening. It is the product itself that darkens, not the tannins causing this.
Mark is correct, the issue is tannin bleed. Penofin is a great product and I’ve had awesome results with it on fences and decks. I believe 99% of the problems are due to incorrect preparation and application. One key is cleaning and brightening all wood (including new wood).