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Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System Review

Restore-A-Deck Cleaner Kit

Restore-A-Deck Cleaner Kit

Restore-A-Deck is the only product on the market that offers both a Step 1 Deck Cleaner and a Step 2 Deck Brightener in the same kit. Restore-A-Deck comes in a powdered concentrated formula. Each 2 lb container makes 5 liquid gallons. Simply pour each into a five gallon container and add water to dissolve the powder concentrate.

Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Scores (1-10)

Removal of Graying, Dirt, Grime: 9

– The Restore-A-Deck Step 1 Deck Cleaner did very well at removing general dirt and grime. The deep cleaning formula made it easy to break down the gray wood cells. All mold was removed as well. The Step 1 Deck Cleaner did not remove some rust stains from the furniture but the Step 2 Brightener did.

Cost Per Square Foot: 10

– The best on the market today. Cost to clean and brighten an average 600 square foot deck is less then $.07 a foot. Since Restore-A-Deck comes in a powder we liked that you only needed to mix as much as you needed. Very little waste.

Removal of Old Stain: N/A

– RAD products are designed to clean, not remove old deck stains. We would presume that they would remove a deck stain if the stain has deteriorated drastically.

Ease of Application: 8

– RAD does not come in a liquid. You need to measure 6 oz per gallon of water of mix the entire 2 lb. container into a 5 gallons of water. This product does apply easily with a garden pump sprayer. We needed to make sure to mix at the correct dosage otherwise the powder did not completely dissolve. Testing was done with both scrubbing and pressure washing. Both worked well. Step 2 brightener does not need to be scrubbed, just rinsed with water after 10 minutes.

Final Appearance of Cleaning: 9

– The IPE wood deck looked brand new after cleaning and drying for 2 days. We would have given this a score of 10 if it was not for a couple of minor water spots that did not come out. These spots looked to be from planter boxes.

Overall Score for Restore-A-Deck Cleaner: 9

– Restore-A-Deck makes a great and economical product for reviving your deck to like new condition. We really like that kits contained both the cleaner and brightener. This was easier then buying the products separately.

Product Information:

Manufacturer: Restore A Deck
Product Type: Powdered Concentrate. Kit contains Step 1 Deck Cleaner and Step 2 Deck Brightener
Available Sizes: 2 Pound Container Makes 5 Liquid Gallons
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coverage Per Gallon: 100-200 sq. ft
Application Tools: Scrub Brush, Pump Sprayer

Test Deck Stats:

When Tested: June 2008
Deck Wood Type: IPE Exotic Hardwood
Deck Square Footage: 500
Condition of Deck: Heavily grayed with mold/mildew. No previous stain
How Much Product Used:
RAD 300 Kit. Retails for $39.99

*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take inconsideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.

Please Rate This Product. You may also post comments or ask questions below.

Average Ratings Score From Consumers Who Have Used Product 

4.63/5 (6)


216 responses to “Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System Review”

  1. bhh says:

    I am in the process of installing a new Cumaru (Brazilian Teak) deck which will be finished with Ipe Oil. I've been doing a bit of research but would you recommend the RAD cleaner or the cleaner + brightener for this application prior to oiling?

  2. Bob Boggus says:

    I have a 1 1/2 old IPE deck. I am getting ready to apply the RAD cleaner and brighter. I would like to keep the natural color of the IPE after cleaning. Do you recommend a sealer? And how long after the RAD application should I wait to proceed with the sealer?

    • Bob, all IPE stains will enhance the natural color of the IPE. Clear sealers that do not change the color will not stop or prevent UV graying. Most use a stain such as IPE Oil or Messmers Hardwood Stain.

  3. Kevin says:

    The TWP 1500 product info on your site says it requires 2 coats, and the Armstrong Clark stain info states only requires one. Is there a difference (other than twice the cost)?

    • Deck Stain Help says:

      Kevin, as contractors we find both products are about the same when it comes to coats needed. They are both 1-2 coats depending on the porosity of the wood or age. We apply the AC with a wet on wet application for best results. This is more like 1.5 coats as the second coat will spread twice as far as the first coat.

  4. Kevin says:

    Meant to ask – does this web site have any financial relationship with any of the products that you recommend? Had to ask…

  5. Kevin says:

    Does the deck have to be completely dry to apply TWP 1500?

  6. […] Important Note: This is our 2nd Review of the Restore A Deck Kits. See Here for First Review: Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit […]

  7. Eric says:

    Great website I have to say. Very knowledgeable and very helpful. One question I have about this page is, it looks like the product RAD was tested on a deck back in 2008 for this post. You have it ranked number one cleaner in your opinion. Its been 5-6 years now and I was wondering if you have used the product recently and if it would still be your number one cleaner of choice. Thanks for all the advice on your site!!

  8. Larry Moss says:

    I was just reading the RAD website and it said that the brightener " would not remove the gray from wood". Is the only reason for the brightener to equalize the wood for staining? I don't have a lot of old stain "cabot semi trans" on the deck but I am stripping anyway. Do I really need to strip the rest or will RAD 2 step match what I have stripped? If I don't strip the rest will I end up with a 2 tone deck? Currently using woodmans stripper and brightener. Stripper seems fine but not sure about the brightener. 10 year old deck and getting "frustrated"

    • Larry, the brightener neutralizes the cleaner or stripper and lightens the color of the wood as well. You need to strip all so the wood looks even. Brightening is very easy.

  9. Rob says:

    I am preparing my 8 month old covered cedar deck for staining with Armstrong Clark and have a couple of questions. I purchased the RAD kit for cleaning/brightening.

    1. Is it best to pre-soak the cedar with water prior to applying the cleaner solution, or do I just spray the cleaner on the dry wood?
    2. Once the cleaner is thoroughly removed with the pressure washer, should the brightener be used right away, or can it be done the next day?

    Thanks for all the help!

  10. Rob says:

    So, I cleaned and brightened my screen room/deck this weekend. The cedar ceiling and walls were a breeze, but the portions of the floor that had grayed slightly and the stairs, which were quite gray, were much more difficult. I am pretty happy with the final result, but it took a lot of pressure washing to remove the gray. I could not believe how much wood pulp was created by the process. I got a bit impatient in some areas, which resulted in some grooved wood (pressure washer damage). I will do a light sand with 60 grit orbital to get rid of the fuzzies. Do you have any suggestions to fix the deeper groves I made with the pressure washer? If I sand them out, do I need to brighten again before staining? Thanks again for the help!

  11. Justin says:

    I'm prepping my 5 year old cedar deck for TWP 100, floor has two coats of Pittsburgh Paints Ultra Advance clear waterproofing sealant/toner (50/50 mix). For the most part the stain has worn evenly (exception is portion where stairs start), do I need to user a stripper/brightener or cleaner/brightener before applying the TWP? Thanks for your help.

  12. Steve says:

    I have a 1 year old cedar privacy fence that has really started to grey. The back of the yard portion of the fence was not put in by me and is 16 years old and completely dark grey, but surprisingly still pretty solid. I 'm planning on staining the 1 year old portion with Armstrong Clark. Will the restore-a-deck and brightner bring my 1 year old portions back to like new? Is there any chance it will remove the grey from the old back portion so it can be stained as well or should I just concentrate on the new fence? I do have a power washer as well.
    Thank you, Steve

  13. Mike says:

    I have a cedar deck with a under deck water proof system made of galvanized steel corrugated sheet and aluminum gutter. The deck was stained with a Cabot Semi Solid Stain and starting to wear off. Is it OK to use the RAD stripper and brightener on my deck? If not what do you recommend?



  14. DanMan says:

    This might be off-topic, but I see a few questions about staining cedar. I was under the impression that oil promoted mold growth – yet I see you recommending Cabot ATO for cedar to some readers. I have an Ipe deck, but with cedar posts and a rough-hewn cedar fascia. The deck is only three years old, but both the initial staining and the second treatment (about a year ago) were both done with Cabot Australian Timber Oil – not just for the Ipe, but for the cedar as well. The cedar is very mildew stained – and my deck is in bright sun, almost no shade until after 6pm, southern exposure in Georgia. It's a merciless frying pan out there, and still the cedar is very discolored from mold. I've been assuming that after I clean it (I've now tried OxyClean and Behr All-in-One Wood Cleaner to almost no effect), I'll start over with a water-based stain on the cedar (and Ipe Oil on the Ipe, per your site's excellent review). Am I wrong in assuming that Timber Oil on cedar (or anything oil-based) is a yummy environment for mold, even in direct sun?

    • We do not suggest the Cabot ATO but a different product called Wood rich Timber Oil. Not the same and does not promote mold like the Cabot. TWP or Defy Extreme will do the best for mold prevention.

  15. Mike says:

    I have a cedar deck with a under deck water proof system made of galvanized steel corrugated sheet and aluminum gutter. The deck was stained with a Cabot Semi Solid Stain and starting to wear off. Is it OK to use the RAD stripper and brightener on my deck? If not what do you recommend?

    PS. I am unable to register to your site. I can input my information but I do not get your response email to click on the link to complete the registration process.

  16. Susiejo says:

    Are Gemini Restore-A-Deck and Restore-A-Deck the same products / same manufacturer?
    I tried to order the Gemini RAD but it cannot be shipped to PA (VOC regulations).
    What cleaner/brightener do you recommend for PA and where can I buy it?

  17. Tanya says:

    How should I apply Restore-A-Deck cleaner and brightener to a pergola? We built a pergola last year, and now it's time to stain it. But I don't know how to "leave a cleaner on the surface for 10 min" if the surface is vertical or upside-down… It won't stay there.
    Help me please!

  18. Dave says:

    I have a deck in Orange County, California that is partially located over an artificial lake. The deck was last stained approximately nine years ago with, as I remember, a Cabot solid stain. There is still a little color left although now the wood grain clearly shows through. I am planning on using an Armstrong Clark semi solid stain and actually talked to Jake Clark last week who was most accommodating. Question is, since I am over water, I assume I would not be able to use the RAD stripper, but that the RAD cleaner and brightener would be OK. Is my assumption correct. Also 7 or 8 of the 20 foot pressure treated douglas fir boards will have to be replaced. Should the deck be sanded before or after using the RAD cleaner and brightener? Regarding the new boards, again since most but not all will be over water, I assume the underside should sealed first before replacement, should it be with the Armstrong Clark or would some other product be preferable. I will be using a contractor. Thanks for your help. Great site!

    • If you have a solid stain than you cannot use a semi-solid stain over it. You would need to remove the solid stain first and stripping will not it effectively so you will need to sand it off. Once off then you would need to the RAD Deck Cleaner and Brightener kit and it is okay over water. Replace wood, sand, clean, brighten, and stain in the order.

  19. Josh says:

    I have a year old deck. Being a rookie at this I power washed the deck just water to clean it. I found this site after the power wash. I'm wondering if I should re-wash with the Restore a Deck or similar product. The cleaning looks ok, I think a re-wash would be better but I don't want to keep power washing. I have an entry level power wash. Thoughts?

  20. Jim says:

    Thanks for all the great info. After a lot of reading I've decided to stain my new Eastern White Cedar deck with AC semi-trans Amber. The deck has been sitting untreated for a year and I've just completed the RAD two steps. While the wood was wet it looked great. Now that it's dry it looks blotchy with white patches here and there, mostly around knots and such but also in some of the wood grain. (May have pressure washed a little too hard) Could this be the result of not rinsing the brightener off enough? I'm at a loss. I used the gentler fan attachment on a 1900 psi power washer to rinse the deck. Should I try and rinse a little harder? Or, if it looked great while wet, will it all turn out okay if I go ahead and stain? My weather window is closing.
    Thanks in advance.

    • When wood is oxidizing for a year you will get a heavy layer of wood cells that need to be removed first. Try rewashing with water only and get slightly closer to the wood. The Amber stain will give a look similar to a wet look so the white areas will not show when stained.

  21. bill smith says:

    I just had my fence stained with Behr premium semi transparent cedar stain. As was stated in a previous comment, it was a pumpkin color. This was just done on 10/7. I want to know would it be better to try removing it now or wait until spring or does it not matter? also, will it retain it's waterproofing to some degree or need to be redone?

    • Spring would be better but either way Behr is hard to remove and even more so when it is on a vertical fence. Behr is a filming acrylic stain and these stain types are almost as hard to remove as a solid stain. You will need multiple applications of a stain stripper and pressure washing to remove. Sorry but there is no easy way to fix this.

  22. Jim says:

    We have a composite deck that was damaged by a subcontractor who spilled a tub reglaze paint over several boards. We spoke with a Messmer's technical expert (because we intend to restain with one of their composite deck stains) who recommended we clean the deck with an oxygenated bleach cleaner. We are going to use Restore-A-Deck based on this site's recommendations, but I have 2 questions:

    1) Restore a Deck says the cleaner won't remove paint. What do you know about using their stripper on a composite deck? Our composite deck is unusual in that it does NOT have an external plastic coating covering the material

    2) Can we use the Restore a Deck brightener on our composite wood in addition to the cleaner?

    Any expert input you can provide would be most welcome! Thanks!

    • 1. No deck stain stripper we have ever used will remove paint. I doubt it will work for you.
      2. Brighteners will have no affect on composite wood.

      You probably need more of a commercial paint stripper for this. Do a test spot first to make sure it does not have a reaction with the composite.

  23. Corey W says:

    Hello. This site is great. I purchased RAD stripper and brightener to refinish my redwood deck in New Mexico. The deck is well, well overdue for maintenance. I have stripped a majority of what was left of the Sikkens stain that was on the deck but the deck will need to be sanded pretty badly. There is also some discoloration and what looks like a bit of mold. The high traffic areas are really difficult to strip and will definitely need sanding. Now, should I strip, sand and then use a cleaner for the darker areas on the wood? Or should I use the cleaner, then sand and then use the brightener? Thanks for your help!

  24. CaliGuest says:

    Will this work well to clean and prep 2,000 sq feet of redwood fencing? I am looking to stain the fence with TWP 1500 California Redwood. The fence is a year old, and has not been stained or painted previously. I am in northern California, so we have rainy winters but hot and sunny summers. Are there better cleaners or longer lasting redwood fence stains?

  25. Rick says:

    Have a 3 year old deck that was never stained; want to get it done right. Has some pretty decent mold by BBQ and Bird feeders. Do you recommend just starting with Restore-A-Deck or should I first use the 1:5 mentioned bleach : h2o?


  26. AWW says:

    The posts and rails on our deck are about 25 years old. The pressure treated pine is rough, gray and black. It is still solid and free from rot. Will cleaning it remove the pressure treated layer, which has been protecting it all these years? If we use a gray, oil based stain without cleaning the wood (and maybe removing the pressure treated layer) will we end up with something that is at least uniform in color or just a mess? Thank you for any help you can give us.

  27. ion09 says:

    I have a deck that is un-stained wood that is over a year old with minor algae/mold and some graying on hand rails. If I was to order Restore-A-Deck would you recommend the kit of cleaner/brightener or? THANKS!!

  28. KWM says:

    Can you use restore-a-Deck to clean teak furniture that is not stained? I have used wolman's Deckbrite to do so in the past.

  29. CMS says:

    What a great site! Where did we all go before the internet?! I have 2 questions. One, I started staining a new arbor with an Olympic oil stain and discovered it was distinctly red, and I hate red stains. So I stopped before I got far and came to research. Found your site (and poor reviews of the stain I was using), closed that can to return it.

    First, I live in Georgia. I need to know how best to handle the one surface I have stained on the new arbor. I now also know that the 3 weeks or so of seasoning may not have been enough anyway, and I didn't know anything about removing "mill glaze" since this was a kit that I the family assembled for me.

    Next, I also had in mind to restore our 8 year old deck. It has been stained and treated, and at one time, a reddish stain was chosen there too (before someone knew I hated the red). The red is worn off of all of the horizontal surfaces, but not all of the vertical ones. Also, even though we have done maintenance, the deck is really gray and the wood is splitting.

    Will the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener prep the deck sufficiently for Defy Extreme stain? I have no idea what products were used in the past, but I think oil based (they were sticky at first). Or do I also need to strip? If so, what is the order of operation for all of that? And would simple sanding take off my mistaken stain on my new arbor or is there something else I need to do? (Honestly, I think I may hire a professional now, but I want to know what to tell him to do).

    Will the Defy Extreme Stain work on my worn deck? I like brown shades, but really since the dogs wear off all the color, I interpret from your site I should stick with "Natural Pine". Will that still have UV protection? I love what someone said that the borer bees don't like the wood treated with Defy Extreme Stain, and I love even more that future coats sound pretty easy to apply and maintenance much easier than for oil based stains. And the environmental aspect – I'm hoping this product can work for me!

    Thanks for the great information and help!

  30. CMS says:

    What a great site! Where did we all go before the internet?! I have 2 questions. One, I started staining a new arbor with an Olympic oil stain and discovered it was distinctly red, and I hate red stains. So I stopped before I got far and came to research. Found your site (and poor reviews of the stain I was using), closed that can to return it.

  31. Wendy says:

    First, I want to thank you all for such a great site!! All of the information has been fantastic!!
    I used the RAD cleaner/brightener on my Tigerwood deck. Due to some unexpected delays, I cannot stain it within the recommended 2 week time frame. Most likely the earliest will be 3 weeks. Do I need to re-brighten? Or do I need to re-clean again too?

  32. Albert says:

    I purchased this product 2 years ago but never used (not even opened) since I did not have the time to clean & stain my deck. I'm now ready to clean/brighten & stain and was wondering the shelf life. Is the product still good if I never opened it?

  33. DavidW says:

    Hi…we have a large deck that with a semi-solid stain applied last year. We do not to need to strip or refinish, just clean it and remove mildew. Is this product suitable for that; if not, what is?


  34. Cyndi says:

    I have a very small heartwood redwood deck that was just completed last November. Unfortunately, the contractor pretreated the boards with Ace Hardware's SealTech which wasn't even intended for redwood, so the first night after a rainstorm it was already mottled with strange dark spots, then over the winter has turned a very even gray/taupe color. Not a sign of red left anywhere. [Naturally he refused to fix it and claimed that's how a redwood deck is supposed to look!] While the mottled appearance is gone, the color left in its place is not at all appealing for one hoping for a beautiful redwood deck! So, my question is: does Restore-A-Deck's two step process remove the ugly gray color? There is no mold or mildew, but I'm sad to say that the boards are beginning to crack in our dry Colorado weather due to the wrong product being used last fall – a product that I believe is pretty much gone by now. I am hoping that I don't have to get the sander out. Also, what product would you then finish it with when I'm done cleaning the surface – sounds like you strongly recommend Armstrong, Timber Oil or Defy. Are any of those products correct for this purpose?

    • It should remove the gray along with pressure washing as long as the ACE brand is not a filming sealer. I would suggest the Armstrong of the TWP.

      • Cyndi says:

        Thanks so much for your reply. Can you tell me what a "filming sealer" is? And I'm not clear on what you mean by "I would suggest the Armstrong OF the TWP." Did you mean "or?" Thanks!

  35. Dusty says:

    I have 11 year old white cedar deck first coated with linseed oil and 5 years later with a semi-transparent Sikkens product. I have twice stripped with DEFY but some stain remains, especially around knots. Must I sand or do you suggest a better stripper? Thanks.

  36. chris says:

    have a treated pine deck, most in full sun, small portion under a tree. Deck was mostly built in 2009, additional added to it in 2012. All I've used on it is a waterproofing product. Pressure wash it each year and then apply the waterproofing product. No graying, but some mold under the tree covered area. what would be the prep for this if I decide the stain it? Live in northern Ohio. thanks

  37. Kyle says:

    I belt sanded my entire deck last year to remove the solid stain and applied a semi transparent TWP 1500. Some spots did not take the stain very well so I want to apply a "maintenance" coat this year. My deck isn't really dirty at all, what are the procedures of applying the maintenance coat? I'm using the same color, do I really need to "clean" or just "brighten"? Thanks.

  38. George Skluzacek says:

    Where can I purchase Restore-A-Deck cleaner/brightner kit?

  39. Fitzer says:

    I'm getting ready to prep my deck for stain using RAD stripper and brightener. Can you tell me how long the stripper and brightener are good for after mixing with water? I have too much deck to do in the time I have in a day to wash it. If it cant all be done in one day, will the mixtures still be effective if kept in the sprayers for a day or two?

  40. Dusty says:

    I have exotic hardwood, undetermined type, that was installed and unknown oil applied 10 years ago. It is a covered screened porch with not much direct sun and only occasional rain blow in. Now it is dirty & scratched up, having had no maintenance since original oiling. What do you suggest if I want to restore color with minimal darkening? Thanks

  41. Nan says:

    I am ..trying to learn and understand the process to clean and refinish my deck. It is 20 years old and has been pressure washed and sealed a couple of times …but not the last 5 years. It has some green and dark blackish wood where there is shade. Two contractors said the boards were fine and did not need replacement. But it has some splintersand cracks off and on and deep knots in the boards at places.
    1. So Does it need sanding?
    2. The stain is gone . So stripping is not required ?
    3. I avoid chemicals ,So to clean it ..can I use Oxiclean powder …soap based ? Or pressure wash first? What is the order?
    3. Can I then use vinegar diluted to brighten after pressure wash…or before …how long should it stay before I rinse it off?
    4. Deck railing is painted off white. Can I Paint the floor …instead of stain…is solid stain the same as paint in looks?
    5. The paint usually peels and stay on surface, is the stain absorbed in the wood and protects it better? This is because I have a deck garden with planters and need the best protection choice …paint or stain..for the deck floor .
    6. Do I need to. Seal ( please advise brand)…. after either paint or solid stain?
    7. In the future, can I just paint/stain the deck floor when it starts chipping,peeling…without the strip,clean,wash,brighten steps?

    Thanks for your time …I am a rookie

    I gather

    • 1. No sanding
      2. No stripping if old stain is gone
      3. Use the RAD Kits. Much better and made for wood. Environmentally safe as well.
      4. Use RAD brightener
      5. Painting a floor is not a good idea and will peel creating issues down the road. Solid color deck stain is better
      6. No need to seal
      7. You always have to prep before reapplying. You cannot spot stain either. It will not blend.

  42. wanda Mangus says:

    We have a deck 1 foot over a carport with a metal roof. Will this product damage the metal roof?

  43. lance says:

    Used the stripper and brightner on my deck with great results. Excellent product. Have wide board pine on the cootage can I use the product on vericals?

  44. JEFF says:

    new deck 2 yrs ago was stained without weathering, the next year put to many coats on it and sanded it off and applied different stain. I want to resand .should I weather it and then clean, brighting and restain next year. or sand now and follow the clean,brighten then stain . THANKS JEFF

  45. Jeff says:

    It will do a better job than you think. Cleaned a new deck three years ago and put down TWP 1500. Excellent results. I just cleaned that deck again and was amazed at how well it cleaned the old stain.

    Top notch product.

  46. mlv says:

    Can RAD be used with Defy stain?

  47. GaryB says:

    I used the Restore a deck system and am very disappointed to say the least. It cleaned as advertised. The brightener indeed brightened. However, there are an extreme amount of the gray fuzzies near the knots in the cedar deck. I've tried sanding as this site suggested, and that helped some but now I'm seeing more gray spots where I've sanded. Other suggestions I've read is to power wash the deck but carefully. But I've read elsewhere that you shouldn't use a power washer on a cedar deck. I was planning on using Armstrong and Clark redwood transparent stain but don't think I should stain it over the fuzzies. I suppose I will need to return those three dented gallon cans of stain for a darker semi-transparent stain. I've logged many hours already but feel I am still at step 1. Any suggestions would be appreciated other than taking a match to the deck. Thanks.

  48. George Riedel says:

    I live in a hardwood timber frame home. I have a Oak Timber Frame Rear porch. I need an oil based CLEAR/NATURAL coating to apply for protection. I use to use CABOT Austrailan Clear oil based. They stopped making it in oil based.

    I do not have any comfort level for water based sealents. Will this deck stain hold up in OHIO?

    I live in Akron OH. Can I get this locally or do I need to order?



  49. Arlen Woodson says:

    I have two ipe decks. One is 16×12 , the other is 30×12. They are about 3 years old and just gray and with minimum mildew. I was going to have them conditioned professionally but got estimates of $1000 or more. I don't want to mess the decks up, but I am considering doing the work myself. What are the things that I should watch out for? I live in Northern California and the decks get a fair amount of rain and one gets plenty of sun. Is this a job for a novice?

    • It is not an \”easy\” job but can be done with proper prep and application. Prep first with the Restore A Deck Kits and light pressure wash. Stain with Armstrong Clark in Amber or Mahogany. Other option is Defy Hardwood Stain. Do not over apply and being that this is IPE, you will have to clean and reapply annually.

  50. Todd says:

    We have stainless steel railings we are unable to remove. Will the TWP remover and brightener damage this, and how can we prevent that? It will be impossible to avoid contact with the steel.

    • Todd, I am not sure on stainless steel but we use the products around black metal spindles and have never had an issue. Only seen an issue with aluminum trim that has oxidized.

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*This is first and foremost a help site from our experience as wood restoration contractors. All stain and prepping manufacturer directions were followed with our reviews and ratings. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take inconsideration that wood and deck stain results may differ due to prepping procedures, different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, natural weathering, etc.