TWP 100 Wood Stain Review

TWP 100 Wood Deck Stain

TWP 100 Wood Deck Stain

Important Note:  This is Our 1st Review of TWP 100 Series Stain. Our second review was completed in 2012. Please see here: TWP 100 Stain Review 2013

TWP 100 Series Wood and Deck Preservative has been manufactured for over 20 years while proving to be one of the best products on the market.  TWP Stains are registered as wood preservatives by the Environmental Protection Agency, the only stain to achieve this distinction. TWP 100 Series is a 550 VOC compliant wood stain that is available currently in 36 states. Composed of natural and synthetic oils, TWP 100 Series will provide ample protection from snow, rain, and ultra violet radiation.

TWP 100 Series has been rated #1 by Consumer magazine.

TWP 100 Series Wood Deck Stain Scores (1-10)

Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8.5

- We tested the 101 Cedartone color for the pool deck. The semi-transparent color was a traditional cedar color, slightly orange/yellow. The stain had no issues penetrating into the wood completely and did not mask the wood grain.

Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8

- The TWP 100 Stain retained 80% of the original color after 2 years of weathering.

Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8.5

- TWP 100 exhibited zero peeling of the stain after 2 years. Slight wearing around the stairs where the wood butted up to the pool. This area was slightly more faded as well. Possibly from the chlorine in the pool.

TWP 100 Series

TWP 100 Series

Cost Per Square Foot: 9

- We paid $139.99 for the 5 gallon pail of TWP 101 Stain. We used all 5 gallons for the 800 foot pool deck. We applied two coats to the wood. Cost to stain with TWP 100 Series was $.18 per foot for 2 coats of stain.

Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 10

- TWP offers the best resistance to mold and mildew for an oil-based wood preservative. No mold, mildew or algae spores were present on the wood decking.

Ease of Application: 8.5

- TWP is easily applied. We applied two coats to the flooring using a 18″ wide stain applicator. The first coat took us about 30 minutes to cover 800 feet. Second coat took only 20 minutes as the TWP 100 applied at a better spread rate. Overall the 800 square feet was covered in under an hour and applied evenly with no puddling.

Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9

- TWP 100 lightens in color after 2 years. No darkening from UV or mold.

Difficulty of Reapplication: 9

- TWP 100 Series offers deep penetration with no darkening of the stain. Reapplication will be easy without the need for stripping off the two year old stain. Cleaning to remove some dirt and grime would be enough to prep for another coat.

Overall Score TWP 100 Series at 2 Year Period: 8.81

- TWP for good reason gets one of our top overall scores. It is too bad that this product is not available in all 50 states but the TWP 1500 Series performed nearly the same in our test results and can be obtained in all states. If you are looking for a great stain that is economical as well, then the TWP 100 Series should be considered.

Product Information:

TWP Help Site: TWP 100 Instructions
More Info:
Cost: $31.99 per Gallon, $154.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based Wood preservative
Available Colors: 100 Clear, 101 Cedartone, 102 Redwood, 115 Honeytone, 116 Rustic, 120 Pecan, 1o5 Cape Cod Gray, 106 Prarie Gray
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 2-8 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 550 Compliant in 36 States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Gemini Coatings

Test Deck Stats:

Location of Deck: Columbus, Ohio
Deck Wood Type: Pine
Deck Square Footage: 800
UV Exposure: Full Sun Pool Deck
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used:
101 Cedartone

*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take inconsideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.

210 Responses to “TWP 100 Wood Stain Review”

  1. Chris says:

    Hey, thanks for all of the awesome information on this website! I have a 5 year old pressured treated deck in Southeastern PA. I sanded and stripped it completely and coated it with TWP 100 Rustic Oak. The problem is that after i finished the entire deck, I realized I dont like the color!(More so when the sun is on it) :/ Too much Red pigment in it. I may have not mixed the sample properly, because the sample looked different. So I am wondering…. Do I have any options shy of stripping it and redoing it? Maybe in a year or two I have re-coat over top with a different color? Thanks so much for all of the help!

    • Chris, TWP is easily removable in the future with a deck stain stripper. We spray on our stripper then lightly pressure wash it off. I would do that if you want to switch to a different color.

  2. Kathy says:

    We had a new, treated pine fence installed a few days ago. Would the TWP 100 be a good choice for a pine fence? Since it's vertical, how many sq ft would a gal cover. Do we need 2 coats? Any other thoughts would be welcome.

    • Kathy, If this is rough wood then you can stain right away with TWP. I would do 2 coats wet on wet. If smooth wood, you should wait 4-12 months before staining. Coverage on a fence can be around 100 sq. feet for 2 coats of stain. Maybe a little more.

  3. Rob says:

    We finished cleaning and resealing our 5 year old cedar deck with TWP 100 redwood about 2 weeks ago. 3 days ago, a large tree fell on the deck, damaging some boards, but a lot of scuffing of the brand new surface. Insurance is willing to pay to recoat the entire deck. Will the color become even darker red the more coats of stain we apply? After the 2 coats "wet on wet", the color is already quite dark. Is the best plan to clean and recoat? or to strip off the fresh sealer and recoat? Also, I would assume that new boards need to have the same number of coats to match the color? i.e. if we end up recoating over the entire deck, then new boards would need three coats to match? Thanks for any insight.

  4. Tavia says:

    We are building a brand new cedar (not treated) deck. South facing. Extreme temps with lots of sun, and cold winters with snow. We live in ND. Temperatures are already down in the 40's. What would you recommend for stain? Do we need to clean/strip the new wood before we stain? We want a good brand that will last with no mold growth. Would appreciate any of brands.. We want to do it right. Thanks.

  5. Hillsborough says:

    Urgently need advice on best/most efficient way to apply TWP 100 (we got the Cedartone Natural) later this week on a very large (1100 sq. feet) pressure-treated wood deck that is 5 years old and never had product on it. My husband has powerwashed it and used a deck cleaner on it; now wondering once it's thoroughly dry if he can spray the stain on or put it on with the widest brushed-face-type applicator he can find…which would be the better approach? Advice would be appreciated!

  6. CeExtreme says:

    I posted before. A deck undergoing refinishing in Central Oregon, High Elevation Desert. I have three questions for you…

    Wood/Recommendation: I find the wood is western red cedar instead of pine as previously posted. Would like confirmation that you still recommend the same treatment with the wood being cedar. You recommended TWP as having the most longevity. TWP100 series has VOC 550, and is OK to use in Oregon. The conditions are: very dry (humidity extremely low), intense desert sun and heat, very cold winters, during the summer – temperature extremes from freezing at night to 90s and 100s during the day, intermittent snow in winter. Decks are almost sanded and ready. (Moved in with decks a sticky brown/black, sanded and used SuperDeck – it just weathered away, sanded and used Behr – it split and peeled, sanded – ready for a longer lasting and less labor intensive solution for maintenance recoating.)

    Prep: For other posts, to open pores, you recommend cleaning and brightening for best product penetration of the wood. Cleaning even after just sanding the decks down to new wood? (Asking for confirmation of needing to "clean".) Do you recommend using the TWP cleaner/brightener products, or something else? I saw Biowash (brand name) cleaner and brightener products recommended while reading posts here. Please recommend a brand name, or say it doesn't matter which brand. There is a TWP dealer about 40 miles away.

    Color: I find in the posts here, that the TWP100 series clear 100 has no UV protection and the decks will age to grey. Between the TWP 100 series colors of Cedartone, Honeytone, or Pecan, does one of these have the "better" or "best" UV protection? Or are all three about the same for UV protection? I don't want grey decks which seems to be what Clear 100 will do. I'll be recoating each 18-24 months or maybe sooner for the back deck with more extreme conditions. If I don't want grey decks, must I use a color, and if yes, which one do you recommend most? Also please include "Why?" for any of your answers.

    Thank you! I appreciate this site! Hooray!

    • CeExtreme,

      Yes you can still use the TWP 100 for this deck.

      You should clean and brighten after sanding. This will help remove the sand dust and slightly roughen the wood so that the stain is able to penetrate better. TWP makes good prepping products and so does Biowash. Stay away from \”bleach\” based cleaners.

      115 Honeytone is the lightest and will fade the fastest. Cedartone will hold color longer and has a orange/yellow tone. Pecan adds a little bit of brown into the cedartone color. Both Cedartone and Pecan are similar in performance. either of those two would work well but i personally like the Pecan color better for appearance.

  7. Debbie says:

    Reading this site has been very informative. I just wish I'd found it BEFORE I'd started my project …. I am refinishing a cedar deck that was treated about 4 years ago with a Benjamin Moore semi-transparent product. It began chipping and looked terrible after just a year. On the advice of the local paint store I purchased the Sikkens Cetol SRD and the Benjamin Moore Remove and Brightener products. I've managed to remove all of the old product, but then went ahead and used the Brightener BEFORE sanding it. Will I need to reapply the Brightener after I've sanded? Based on what I've read here, I think I will return the Sikkens and find somewhere to buy the TWP 100 – my climate is very similar to the poster from central Oregon (I am from eastern WA State). I am also a little confused about what grit of sand paper to use, I've read conflicting advice. You're nice to answer all of our questions!

  8. Debbie says:

    Ummmm ….because it's an older deck and some of the horizontal planks have become pretty rough (in some places where I got too close with the pressure washer and so me places just from wear)? Some of the boards have splintered in places, from wear. I guess I just assumed that I needed to sand before applying the finish to get that nice finished appearence. Are you suggesting I don't need to sand it? Wow, that would eliminate A LOT OF WORK!

    • Debbie, if splintered I would lightly sand the splinters off. Decks are not supposed to look like furniture or a hardwood floor. Use no higher grit then 60.

      • Debbie says:

        Thank you! Your help has been phenomenal! I ordered the TWP 100 stain over the weekend and they are Fedexing it to me today! Thanks again —

  9. Tricia says:

    We recently installed a new pressure treated deck which has been curing over the summer. Unfortunately, the planters have left darker spots and some mildew. Per your recommendation, we have ordered TWP 1500, but will it even out the spots in application? What is the best method of killing mildew? Many thanks.

    • Tricia, I would try a good deck cleaner and deck brightener. This should remove the mildew. The dark spots under the planters may be water stains and they typically do not come out.

  10. Castle in Northern VA says:

    DSHelp, great site & great information. Why does TWP require 2 coats (wet/wet) when some other stains are a 1 coat application? And if two coats aren’t applied, what would the results yield? I’m asking because I have between 600-850sq feet ahead of me. If you don’t think I should skip the 2nd coat, then what stain to use in its place would be appreciated. Thanks

    • Castle, Many stains require 2 coats with just a few needing one. It is best to follow the manufacturers directions for maximum protection and overall finished appearance. It is easy to do 2 coats with TWP. Typically you only need to do this to the horizontal surfaces. Apply first coat to to entire floor the walk back on right away and apply the second coat.

  11. Ron says:

    You mention letting new redwood dry before you treat with TWP. How low should the moisture content be for success? This is a very damp climate.

  12. Pattie says:

    Hi there. I'm applying TWP 100 deck stain for the first time to a 17 yr old cedar 1000 sqft deck with 72 feet of rainings that has been previously protected with Cabot stains. How long does the stain need to dry before rain. I'm in PA and this week seems to be it for the nice weather, but there looks to be some rain Sunday. If I get it coated Friday and Saturday will that be enough time to dry before the rain? Temps look to be in the mid 60 's with nights in the 50's with humidity around 50%.

  13. Vrocket says:

    i have a cedar split rail fence, when the fence was new 3 years ago i applied TWP100 . I applied 2 coats as was told. I notice now it is peeling. When contact TWP was told should have let the wood dry out before staining thats why peeling. i have contacted sealer store where I purchased the stain asking why didnt tell me that when purchased. Have not received a response . Very upset with over 600 ft of fencing. TWP told me to light pressure wash and restain in spring. I am NOT sure how good this stain is now that I have this issue.

    • Vrocket, all new wood should weather for months then needs to be cleaned and brightened before staining. This goes for the majority of stains, not just TWP brand. We use a lot of TWP and it says right on the can that new wood should weather for 6-12 months then needs to be cleaned first. This is a good lesson as to why it is important to read the instructions fully before applying a stain to wood. Failure to read and follow instructions may result in premature product failure as it did in your case. This is not the stains fault but unfortunately the applicators fault for not following the directions.

  14. Chad says:

    Thank you for providing such a great resource! Please advise- I stained new cypress with twp 100 knowing of the short life, but wanted color on my new home 18 months later color is still good but, easily scratches off with fingernail and looks saturated after rain. Let's say this is because it did not penetrate the new hard wood. My biggest concern is the black mold after this short time. So I was wondering if I should use a synthetic oil based stain or maybee I didn't wipe off excess but mold didn't happen until things dulled at 12 months. Thanks

  15. Brandon says:

    I have just completed a 1200 square foot treated pine deck. I plan to sand the deck before applying stain/sealer. What stain/sealer do you recommend (in south Mississippi). How long should I wait before I apply the stain/sealer? What steps should I follow before staining?

    • Brandon, new wood needs to weather or dry out for a period of 2-12 months before staining depending on the stain brand. TWP wants you to wait at least 4 months. Best would be to wait until Spring, then clean and brighten the wood to prep. We are not fans of sanding for prepping unless absolutely needed. You want the wood as porous as possible so the stain can penetrate deeply. The better the stain absorbs, the better it will work. Sanding can hinder absorption, especially on new wood.

  16. Alex says:

    I applied TWP stain to a deck after building it and waiting about 5 months for it to season. First used a cleaner and it turned out real nice.

    Pressure Treated pine
    Middle Louisiana

    I went with 2 different colors (1 base of cedar, and an accent color of cape cod for rails and posts) I am very happy with results (and was guided to use TWP by your website)

    The deck is about 200 sq ft all told and I ran out of the Cedar stain after getting about 1 1/2 coats on (so unfortunately part of my deck is slightly lighter than the other side)

    Can i purchase another can of TWP and reapply on the side of the deck that i only got 1 coat on? ( i'm not going to be terribly upset if i can it still looks good)

    Or should i give it a couple years and then use a cleaner again and restain?


  17. [...] Important Note:  This is Our 2nd Review of TWP 100 Series Stain. Our first review of the TWP 100 Series here: TWP Wood Stain Review [...]

  18. Luginia says:

    We need to "paint" our cedar-sided/brick house. It was last painted with Behr oil-based stain 8 years ago. The side with the west sun is ready for a new coat. Behr no longer makes an oil-based stain, so I am looking at TWP that I learned of on this website. Which TWP or other coating do I want to choose ?


  19. Fred says:

    I bought 2 cans of TWP stain 3 years ago to stain my deck. I only used 1 and never opened the 2nd can. I am in the process of re-staining my deck. Will this can still be good to use after a good shaking or is there an expiration to it?

  20. Kellen says:

    Have a cedar deck (built in 1990) still in pretty good shape except for a couple of boards that I am going to replace. Just power washed last year and stained with Sherwin Williams deckscape natural oil based stain. The floor appears to need stained again. Is that common to need to restain after one year for this old of deck (live in Omaha NE)? Should I stay with the same stain or do recommend changing to a stain like TWP? If I change stain do I need to power wash again?

    • Kellen, if you switch then you need to strip off the SW. Hard to say but in most cases a stain like TWP will give about 2 years on a horizontal if prepped correctly and applied correctly.

  21. Peggy says:

    I have a siding stain dilemma. We have a house with cedar siding, plus a detached garage with a new addition (also with cedar siding – all rough side out). The house is 23 years old, and was stained with semi-transparent stain (Benjamin Moore I think) at installation, and again then after 3 years. In 2004, we switched to Cabot semi-solid (New Redwood) and have been very happy with the results. After 9 years, it still looks fresh.

    In 2007, we put an addition on the house, and used the reformulated Cabot semi-solid stain. It looks terrible now – the red has completely faded out, and the surface is a chalky brown color. We need to re-stain the addition, but do not want to have to re-stain the rest of house. Obviously, matching the color is important, but from what I've read (and with my experience) I do not want to use Cabot.

    In addition, we need to stain new wood on the garage addition and also need to re-stain the original garage, some of which hasn't been stained since 1992. Matching color to the house is not as important, but I do want to use the same stain. We will be hiring the same person who did the 2004 job, so I know that he will prepare the surface well.

    My question(s) is – what product do you recommend as a replacement to the (old and good) Cabot New Redwood Semi-solid? What needs to be done to the already stained surfaces? And how can we match the color of the portion of the house that still looks good? (It will cost us significantly more to stain that portion of the house).

    We are located in southeastern PA. The house is in the woods, with shade on the north and west sides, but sun on the south and east sides. The garage is not in the woods, so only the north side remains in shade. On the house, we have not had any mold issues on the north side, but the south side has faded and dried out faster due to the sun exposure. No issues on the garage, other than fading.

    Thanks for your help.

    • Peggy, when switching brands it is very difficult to match colors. I would look at the TWP 1500 for this and maybe get some samples to test. Other stain option would be the Armstrong Clark. All surfaces need to be prepped first. You may need to strip off the Cabot if you are switching brands.

  22. Peggy says:

    I have a siding stain dilemma. We have a house with cedar siding, plus a detached garage with a new addition (also with cedar siding – all rough side out). The house is 23 years old, and was stained with semi-transparent stain (Benjamin Moore I think) at installation, and again then after 3 years. In 2004, we switched to Cabot semi-solid (New Redwood) and have been very happy with the results. After 9 years, it still looks fresh.

  23. Maria says:

    I got a deck last september (PTW Deck) and have waited for eight months. I want to stain the wood soon. I live in indiana and it is facing the south side and is pretty hot during the summertime. Please give me suggestions on which stain is the best option for me to use. Thank you in advance.

  24. Kathy says:

    Central Wisconsin
    15 year old deck
    Full sun
    Used Behr last time–deck floor did not retain stain after 2 years
    High traffic
    Pressure treated lumber
    Some mold

  25. Kathryn says:

    The home we recently purchased in northern NV has a 20 yr old redwood deck that is structurally sound & in overall good condition. It was well-maintained up until the last 4 or 5 years, but they used a stain that we want no part of. Thankfully, most of what wasn't already gone came off with a couple of pressure washings, but we have some spots where it has stuck & then we have lots of graying. Our intention is to strip the deck with RAD stripper and a pump sprayer, then apply the RAD brightner, but now we have to choose the product. We want TWP, and it since we appear to be able to, we think we should use the 100, and will likely get the redwood tint. Are we right in our thinking? Is there anything we've left out? We were going to sand, too, but we don't really need to so will probably not. Thanks for your help!

  26. Kathryn says:

    I forgot….the deck is in full desert sun & gets a few inches of snow (that melt off fairly quickly) each winter.

    • Kathryn says:

      I just went to order my products, and now I am a little confused. With regard to RAD products, we were going to strip and then brighten, but the product descriptions says the brightener doesn't remove gray wood. Do we need to strip, clean, and THEN brighten before staining with TWP 100?

  27. Royal Industries says:

    Yeah, I am also using TWP 100 Wood Stain for my old furniture because it is really effective and perfect for the furniture. Thanks

  28. Jim says:

    Can TWP cedatone be applied with garden pump sprayer? I have 348 spindles around my pool deck that I can't get a brush in between.

  29. Rj Anderson says:

    Here in Oregon we can legally purchase the TWP 100. So I'm not sure if I should go for the 100 or their 1500? Any advice?

  30. Angie says:

    I have a seven year old untreated ( no stain, no color) standard wood deck. What would be the proper way to prepare my deck for staining and what products do you recommend?

    • Angie, use the Gemini Restore Kit to get the wood clean and back to it\’s normal color. Once this is done you can apply the TWP.

      • Angie says:

        I was reading the comments about the Restore-a-Deck and Brightener Kit. What's the difference between the Gemini and Restore-a-Deck? My deck has not been treated, stain or paint ever by the previous owners. We bought this house a year ago and we had to replace some of the old wood and make it structurally sound. We added cedar wood to the top of the rail only. The rest of the deck is grayish, moldy some peeling and cracks. Don't I have to clean it and brightener after? Do you recommend TWP 100 or 1500? Georgia, full sun until 5-6pm. Thank you for your previous answer.

        • Angie, you cannot remove paint with the Restore A Deck Kits. You will need to sand. You can use them for removing the gray and mold though. TWP cannot be applied on top of a paint. No difference between the kits.

  31. Lydia says:

    I am having a new deck built with select red fir as I can't afford redwood or cedar. Is TWP100 the product to use? I plan on staining my boards before deck is built. Help!

  32. Jim Fouts says:

    My decks have Behr stain (ugh) that is peeling, bare wood showing after 2 years. How do I strip it before applying TWP?

  33. Nate says:

    I am in Minnesota and i just finished building a new cedar deck. It is partial shade. I have had the lumber sitting under a 4 seasons porch for over a month before it was built, and i plan to wait a few weeks before i stain it. From everything i have read here it sounds like i should go with the TWP 100 for a stain, is that the best fit? Will i need to use a cleaner prior to staining or can i just sweep it off and start?

  34. Hazel Manclark says:

    I live in Western Pennsylvania and have a redwood deck which looks awful! I have pressure washed it, stained it with Behr stain (Yuk) and waterproofed it. Every footprint and every mark sticks to the deck and after scrubbing with a hard brush, the stains never go away. I want to try TWP if I can find it in my area. How do I go about stripping the old stain and where do I go from there? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

  35. Ali says:

    I live in TX and have a new fence (2 months old) rough sawn cedar. From all the reviews it seems like TWP 100 or 1500 would be a good choice. Do you agree? Some of the fence is in full sun and some is partial sun. Are there going to be any issues with boards bowing if I only stain/seal my side of the fence? Also given that it's new and rough sawn are there different ways it should be sealed? 1 coat vs 2? Cleaning or no cleaning?


  36. Jerry says:

    I live on long island. Applied TWP honeytone to a 35 year old redwood deck in great condition. Used a conditioner and brightener. Applied the stain Sunday evening . The deck had mist on it in the am and we had rain Monday and Tuesday despite the forecast of partly sunny both days. Now notice when I slide deck chairs they leave a light color trail as though it's pulling color off. Any suggestions. Maybe has to dry more. Can I wipe on some TWP to cover the marks?

  37. Karen says:

    I was wondering if you could explain the difference between TWP100 and 1500. I have a cedar-sided house in British Columbia-hot, dry summers and very wet, humid, cold winters. Currently experiencing some mold on the siding and greying on one side of the house. Which product do you think would be best. House is about 16 years old.

  38. Sandy says:

    I live in middle Georgia and have a 1-year old pressure treated pine deck I plan to seal for the first time this fall. It is in full sun all day and the humidity is very high in summer. A review of your replies to people in Georgia seems to show a preference for Armstrong over TWP. Which should I use?

  39. Stan says:

    Can I mix a TWP100 rustic with a cedartone to make it darker?

  40. Bob says:

    I am in Houston, and have a large treated lumber deck that we have stained with oil base every couple of years. The deck is gray again, and for all practical purposes does not look like it has any stain on it. I have never had an issue layering on new stains. Is it necessary to do any prep besides cleaning (to use TWP)?

  41. Charles Roberts says:

    Hi I have built a new ceder home rough ceder I wanted the best uv protection I purchased 25 gal dark oak to get started did I make the right choice and would two coats be best twp 100
    Thank you charley

  42. Crystal says:

    We are about to stain 10 cabins for homeless veterans that are made of landscape timbers..we are in southwest louisiana. What stain/ sealer do you recommend?

  43. Mark says:

    Staining a pressure treated pine deck and Boat Dock, both have weathered for a year. Im in Tampa, FL on the water and I think Ive decided on using TWP 100 to tackle both jobs. I am having trouble deciding on a color as its hard to tell from your swatches. Is there some pictures of finished projects I could view? I don't want too much of an orange or red hue and I believe I read the lighter colors wear off easier. I would probably be deciding between Cedar, Pecan or maybe even Dark Oak. Any advice?

  44. DENNY says:

    We had a 30 by16 deck built last aug with a roof over it . will that make any difference as to what kind of stain to use. We waited over winter for wood to dry out .. will clean & prep before staining . We live in Missouri. Any suggestions.THANKS

  45. Ana says:

    We live in MN and have harsh winters. Our deck is rather large and gets a lot of sun exposure in the summer and snow in the winter along with wear and tear from our large dogs. It is old cedar decking and at this point, it looks gray because the stain has wore off except the spindles. Since being in the house for 6 years, we have stained it twice with Pittsburgh Ultra semi-transparent stains and it lasted about a year each time. The 2nd time I even used a deck stripper to really make sure I did everything right. I used a cleaner and applied it during a 65 degree day. I am frustrated because of the labor it takes and the cost for the materials. Is there a better product that I would have access to around here that would withstand the heat and snow pile up? I work at a retail store that sells Cabot and Pittsburgh but am willing to go outside of there to get a long lasting product. Any advice on a better stain or tips on what I can do better would be helpful.

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