TWP 1500 Series Stain Review

TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain

TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain

TWP 1500 Series was introduced in the Summer of 2010 as the replacement for the TWP 500 Series. TWP 1500 stain is a semi-transparent oil based wood preservative registered by the EPA. The only deck preservative that is currently registered as an exterior wood preservative.

TWP 1500 Series is designed for all exterior unfinished wood. It has excellent UV resistance from graying. It is mostly used for exterior wood decking, wood fencing, log homes, cedar sided homes, etc. TWP 1500 comes in 10 colors that allow the natural grain of the wood to show through.

TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Scores (1-10)

Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8.5

- TWP 1500 Series had a beautiful rich look to the wood. Wood grain was highlighted naturally. 1501 Cedartone color was slightly brown for a traditional cedar color.

Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9

- Excellent at preventing uv graying at the two year mark. One of the top stains that we have tested in terms of absorbing the UV radiation that causes oxidation of the wood.

Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9

- Very good at preventing peeling. TWP penetrates deep into the wood. This seems to reduce any chance of wearing or peeling at the surface.

TWP 1500 Series

TWP 1500 Series

Cost Per Square Foot: 8

- TWP 1500 Series cost us $174.99 for a 5 gallon pail delivered. This breaks down to $.35 per foot for 2 coats of stain on our 400 square foot deck. We still had 1.5 gallons left when done. Coverage for the TWP 1500 was close to 200 square feet per gallon.

Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9

- Of all of the oil based stains we tested, TWP offers the best protection against mold spores that are known to grow in oil based stains. This is most likely due to the oils used in TWP’s stains. They do not use linseed oil but rather a mixture of natural and synthetic oils.

Ease of Application: 8

- For an oil based stain, TWP 1500 series applied well. We did notice that you need to back brush any puddles to ensure an even application. This is normal for most of the stains that we have tested. TWP 1500 Series did dry to the touch in 6 hours and we were able to put furniture back on the deck the following day.

Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9

- The 1500 series did not “darken” in color like other oil based stains have been known to. TWP actually lightened up slightly at the 2 year mark. This gave the wood a more natural looking feel.

Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5

- TWP 1500 Series would be an easy stain to reapply. A normal wood deck cleaner would be used to remove some dirt and grime, prepping for another coat.

Overall Score TWP 1500 Series at 2 Year Period: 8.5

- TWP 1500 Series (and 100 Series) have been known to provide tops in terms of durability and color retention. They have always been one of the best stains and is one of our top choices. Little to no fading on the railings. The deck surface faded to about 75% of the stain’ initial color after 2.5 years.

Product Information:

TWP 1500: TWP 1500 Application
More Info:
Cost: $34.99 per Gallon, $174.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based
Available Colors: 1500 Clear, 1501 Cedartone, 1502 Redwood, 1503 Dark Oak, 1504 Black Walnut, 1511 California Redwood, 1515 Honeytone, 1516 Rustic, 1520 Pecan, 1530 Natural
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Gemini Coatings

Test Deck Stats:

When Tested: June 2010
Deck Wood Type: Western Red Cedar
Deck Square Footage: 400
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used:
1501 Cedartone

*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take inconsideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.

343 Responses to “TWP 1500 Series Stain Review”

  1. Art Wilson says:

    I've got a new cedar deck that i want to apply a clear finish too. I'm trying to pick between the Defy Extreme Clear and TWP 1500. I'm not positive I can get the TWP in clear, but it appears from their website that they do sell it tint free. My top three priorities for the product are preservation of the wood, length of time between refinishing, and ease of refinishing when i have to do it. I'm not as concerned about the wood greying over time.

    Any recommendations between these two products, or is there a third product i should be considering?


    • Art, TWP does make clears in both the 100 and 1500 Series. TWP in the clear will not provide UV protection from graying. Both the Defy Extreme and TWP Clear would work well for this if you are okay with the graying. Make sure to prep first with a deck cleaner.

  2. Too much work says:

    Very helpful site. I've finished stripping, some sanding, and wood brightener (with Restore-A-Deck products) on our 10-year old, full sun, cedar deck. After it rains how long do I need to wait for it to dry to stain with TWP and how long does it need to remain dry before more rain can come? I'm in Minnesota. Do you recommend the TWP 100 or 1500 series for light stain that is closest to the natural color of the cedar or honey? I don't want any brown tones. thanks

  3. Aaron H. says:

    I have a new Kiln Dried Pressure Treated Pine deck and am planning on sealing with TWP 1500 in natural. I know you are supposed to wait at least 4 months on Pressure Treated wood, but because it's Kiln Dried my contractor said to stain/seal right away (or at least within a month). I was planning on pressure washing, wait 2 days, and then apply TWP 1500. What are your thoughts?


  4. Mary says:

    I have sanded my 14 yr old deck, wondering which stain to go with. I previously had Sikkens Dek on it and am looking for lower maintainance. I live in southern WV….do you recommend TWP 100 OR 1500 or should I go with Armstrong Clark? Wondering which color best matches the natural oak Sikkens stain?

  5. Aaron H. says:

    I have a new Kiln Dried Pressure Treated Pine deck and am planning on sealing with TWP 1500 in natural. I know you are supposed to wait at least 4 months on Pressure Treated wood, but because it's Kiln Dried my contractor said to stain/seal right away (or at least within a month). I was planning on pressure washing, wait 2 days, and then apply TWP 1500. What are your thoughts?

  6. Sue Keller says:

    I have a cedar deck that is 1 year old with no treatment as of yet. I have been so disappointed over the years of deck treatments. Sikkens was a mess. I am leary of any type of stain that has acrylic, latex, heavy paraffin (wax), or oil and linseed (as main ingredients) in it. Acrylic will form a hard shell on the top surface and will last about 6 months to a year if you're lucky. Latex is basically rubber and will last about the same maybe 18 months. Both will flake and peel away. Paraffin will eventually chip, peel and flake away; Linseed and oil will flake away within 3 months to 6 months. Acrylic and Latex are very damaging to wood and suffocate the wood much like placing plastic over your mouth and will not allow the wood to expand and contract as needed. The wood may buckle and cause nail raising and splitting of the wood. They both are also very hard to remove evenly. Recoating of the stains with several coats will only make things difficult and expensive to refinish or replace the damaged wood. I am looking at TWP but I cannot find an ingredient list. Your opinion? Thanks.

    • Sue, use a deep penetrating oil based stain like TWP or Armstrong Clark. You are wrong though on the Parafin and Linseed oils. Both penetrate deep into the wood. If they film then it is the pigment in the stain that does that.

  7. Sue Keller says:

    I need to finish a covered porch. The ceiling is tongue and groove fir. I would like the natural look. Sense it is underside of the metal roof it is not exposed to elements, other than Minnesota cold. ;-) Any suggestions?

  8. Stephanie Ford says:

    What TWP 1500 stain was used on the deck in the picture above? My neighbor used a color that looks like that and she said the color was cedar (different brand). I was going to get the 1501 cedartone but you mention it is more of a brown. What color should I get if I want more of an orange hue, also like the sides of your website!

  9. Don says:

    Very small amount of new teak located on a sailboat cabintop in San Diego, full sun. Don't want to varnish. TWP 1500 sounds like a good option. Do you agree, and if so, what color would you use? Thanks!

  10. Michelle says:

    Our deck was treated with semitransparent oil based Deckscapes from Sherwin Williams 7 years ago. I want to put TWP 1500 on it. Can I get by with using Restore A Deck cleaner and brightener followed by power washing before applying the 1500 stain?

  11. Julie says:

    I have new PT pine floor boards butting up to 10 year old PT pine floor boards. Small section was replaced in May due to a few rotting boards…(replacing the whole floor was not an option and the majority of the floor boards were in excellent condition anyway). Old Olympic Max stain was stripped recently (not sure if was old formula or new). Was looking at Armstrong or TWP 1500 to restain with. Was favoring the TWP 1500 but is it too soon to stain in mid July with TWP–in regard to the newer wood? Or would Armstrong be better? Any tips on how to get the old boards and new boards looking the same in color density? I have not applied the brightener yet. Maybe that will help? Any tips welcome!

    • Julie, since the wood is newer I would use the AC as it does soak in better. New wood and old wood cannot match. You can get it close by prepping correctly with a cleaner and brightener.

  12. Michele Alcorn says:

    Please help! My 17 year old son stained our deck using twp 1500. The deck is old but was prepped using the gemini products. However, this was his first time doing it and I was at work … to come home to a many areas where he over applied the stain which is no sticky to touch even after 2 days.

    What do I do to correct this? Thank you so much in advance.


  13. Trudy in PA says:

    Do you know of any pictures of fencing or deck where TWP 1500 in Rustic #1516, California Redwood #1511, or Cedartone #1501 have been used? So hard to visualize with just a little swatch.

  14. Minnis says:

    I live in northern Illinois and have a cedar deck(in full sun) that I just finished sanding with 60 grit to remove 95% of old solid stain. What's the next step? Brightener then stain? If so which brightener? and what stain? Would like to just go get it as opposed to ordering it but could wait for TWP if necessary. Thoughts?

  15. Denis says:

    Hi, I have a 4 year old rough sawn cedar lumber deck in Canada that is exposed directly in the sunlight and tons of snow accumulation each year. We tried to apply wood shield natural tone, but this was a disaster. The deck has turned grey in color. Do u think that Olympic wood cleaner/brightner would do the job? Or do you recommended a different brand? Also, I was told to avoid pressure washing your deck if you can. Is this true? I plan on purchasing TWP 1500 cedar tone for this deck, would this be a good choice? or do you recommend another brand? thanks!

  16. Eric says:

    I am about to build a deck out of pressure treated lumber and was considering using boards that are listed as KDAT, or "kiln dried after treatment". I thought that I read somewhere that the moisture content would be about 16% for these boards. Can these boards be stained with TWP sooner than regular, new, PT lumber, or should I still wait until next spring to stain with TWP? The deck will surround a pool, so I am concerned about leaving it untreated. Thanks for your help.

  17. Jeff says:

    Hello, I'm preparing to apply TWP 1500 to a new pergola and discovered an insect repellant called NBS 30. NBS 30 is marketed as a stain additive which can be mixed with a stain and applied as a mixture of stain and insect repellant. Does anyone have experience with this additive? Will the TWP performance be compromised by adding this repellent? Or are there other issues to consider?

  18. puppies for sale says:

    i used thompson water seal on my deck last year after power washing off Behr..never to use that again… this year we flip over our deck boards and wash with wolman cleaner…deck looks & feels brand new again! now time to protect it…my husbands is leaning toward TWP 1500…is it ok to use sense i clean the deck with a different product? thanks Barb ; from Iowa

  19. David says:

    Just applied 1500 to cedar deck, had 15 hours to dry before raining for 2 days now. I can see that the water is not soaking into the wood (looks to have a good seal). Question is I can see oily residue in rain water that is puddling on the deck, did it not have enough dry time? Have not even walked on it or put furniture back as it has not dried yet fom the rain.

  20. Daniel Guerra says:

    What store location is in my area, I am in Walnut Creek, CA 94596

  21. RLH says:

    Does anyone have comments on whether TWP 1500 cedartone or redwood is a better color – for staining a fence. Thanks!

  22. Bill says:

    Between TWP 1500, Defy Epoxy and Defy Extreme, which would be best to use on OLD siding previously sealed with Penofin's rosewood-nut oil?

    Which will:
    1. resist Mildew growth?
    2. not darken as it ages?
    3. allow the many colors of cedar to show through?
    4. reinflate the cellular structure of the wood?

    What chemical should be used to strip the Penofin?

    Do you know any contractors in Los Angeles who have used any of these three sealer-stains?

    Thank you for this site. I have learned a lot,

    • Bill, you are very limited for LA and I believe only the TWP 1500 can be used there. TWP is a registered EPA product for mold prevention and it does not darken over time but lightens. The Restore A Deck Stripper or HD80 for the removal of the Penofin. Brighten when done.

  23. Deck Master says:

    Will TWP 1500 clear work well on a Gloster teak outdoor table which is exposed to the harsh sun near the beach in so Cal? Would you recommend something else?
    Also, which TWP color would you recommend to maintain the natural IPE color of a deck, again exposed to So Cal sun?

  24. Tammi says:

    Hi – I've have a pressure treated fence that is three years old, a deck that has just been added onto so it is a combo of old and new. Old part of deck just stripped – new part of deck added last summer and steps just finished two weeks ago. I am confused if I can/should use the same stain on all of it. Floors are yellowwood and rails are cedar with iron balusters. I have samples of messmers and TWP (both 100 and 1500) and like the looks of the TWP stain better but have only tried it on the fence so far. What advice can you give me? I'm in Missouri and deck gets full sun most of the day.

    • Tammi, same stain for all the wood. I would use the 100 Series for this. Make sure all the wood is prepped first.

      • Tammi says:

        So just to make sure I understand – I should clean and brighten old and new wood both and TWP will be fine on newer parts ? From reading other posts it sounded like I should not use it on newer wood ? Also thought about just leaving steps until spring – would that be better choice?

        • Tammi, since it is just the steps I would do it all. You can always touch up the steps next year as needed.

          • Tammi says:

            Great – thank you so much. As others have stated, reading advice not only on our own decks but others helps a lot. Appreciate it.

          • Tammi says:

            Thanks for the advice – my deck turned out awesome . I used the 100 series – Pecan color- it all looks great. If anyone questions using the cleaner and brightner – it makes all the difference. I stripped off some very dark Behr stain/paint on my older deck- cleaned and brightened everything and the whole deck looked the same color before starting. Very happy with the results. I did have a scrubby brush and a power washer. I do not think I would of gotten the same results with a garden hose. That mill glaze is like snot when scrubbing it off- I can tell on the parts that didn't get as much scrubbing that the stain just kind of dries on top. After almost completing the whole process – the staining part is the easiest and the cleaning/prep part is the hardest but most important!

          • Glad to be of help!

  25. Leslie says:

    I have a new cedar deck in Seattle and unsure whether to stain now (September), weather permitting, or just wait next summer. From what I've read on your awesome website, I could use Armstrong Clark now, or I could wait until say July next year and use Defy Extreme or TWP 1500. I prefer to delay, but I'm wondering if there's a significant advantage to staining now. Thanks.

  26. Gary says:

    I have a new picnic table and bench set made out of pressure treated yellow pine that has not been stained or sealed. I want to apply a light color stain/sealer to it, would TWP-1500 be the best product? If so, would one application be enough since it is new and would I need to use any type of cleanser/brightner prior to applying the stain. My goal is to use a 2-gal pump sprayer to apply the stain.

  27. Ann, yes you need to clean and brighten after heavy sanding. This will remove the dust and open the grain of the wood so the stain can penetrate deeper. You still have plenty of time to stain.

  28. Michael Zahner says:

    Greetings. I posted earlier regarding a 20 plus year old pressure treated deck exposed to all the element in Northern Vermont. Hardly ever treated, wood exposed to the sun is cracked and has deteriorated in some sections. Areas not receiving the full brunt of the sun are remarkably in good shape after hours and hours of power washing to remove dirt, grit and mold. Wanting to get down to to bare wood, I have also done a great deal of power sanding – most sections look almost brand new.. The boards that don't look new will be flipped to use the underside. Question – should I use TWP 150o this fall after using the wood restore product or wait until the spring to allow the pore of the wood to open?


  29. thomas Salter says:

    i still dont know the difference between TWF 1500 and TWF 100. How to know which is better in which circumstanses? Please advise. thank you.

  30. jon says:

    Let me save you some hassle…be prepared to ensure perfect wood conditions prior to application.

    I bought 5 gallons of TWP1500 for three separate applications:
    #1 – a 12 yr old fence/pergola prevoiusly treat with Olympic semi transparent stain prior to VOC regulations (lasted very well). To prepare wood: I stripped then neutralized using a oxalic acid based brightner
    #2 – a 6 month old untreated swimming deck. To prepare wood: I used a deck cleaner with stiff bristle brush to remove mill glaze, etc
    #3 – a 3 yr old deck previously treated with newer voc compliant Olympic stain which would only last one season on horizontal decking. To prepare wood: the deck had not been treated in 2 years and, since the horizontal surfaces were virtually barren of any color or water resistance I used a stiff brush and deck cleaner.

    All surfaces were power washed and left to dry for over a week. We've had a very long dry spell in the North East. Daytime temps have been mid 70's to lower 80's and low humidity.

    Results are mixed but overall disappointing. On projects #1 and #2 surface preparation was by recommended procedure, however, on all three projects there are areas that simply have not dried after 7 days of curing. This seems to be directly related to the specific areas of the wood, maybe knots or denser areas, and also areas that may not have been stripped or prepared perfectly. They simple would not totally absorb the stain. What is left is a sticky puddle with no apparent ability to dry.

    Now to be fair TWP label says areas must be stripped, etc .. but let me tell you THEY MEAN IT. Residue seems to be a bees-wax like consistency and now will require some form of remediation. Even on the fence project , which was thoroughly and methodically stripped, I still have areas the will not dry. It seems a product designed to "perfect wood conditions" Is it possible that this VOC compliant product must be manufactured in such a way the significantly effects its ability to absorb? I would love to have the "non-compliant" Series 100 to see the difference.

    To help remediate the condition (which by no means do I recommend nor do I know the long term effects) I took a heat gun and briefly (3 or 4 seconds) warmed the area. like I said seems like bees wax.. then wiping with an old cotton cloth. The result removes the sticky puddles but the surface is very slippery… not something I want on a deck nor do I want the hassle of doing this of several hundred square feet.

    I say that I will not use the product again but I am not sure anybody living in VOC complaint states have much of a choice (if this is in fact the reason behind the performance of this product.)

    • Jon, sorry you had drying issues. As contractors we have found that there are two reasons a stain will not dry correctly. Over applying, improper prep, or combination of both. If the stain absorbs 100% into the wood then it will not have any issues. If it cannot absorb into the wood all the way then the stain will \”film\” on top of the wood, creating shiny spots and stickiness. As contractors it is easy for us to understand how much stain is enough. As a homeowner it can be difficult to understand that \”more is not better\” and to know when you are over applying.

      This is a valid point but this can happen with any stain brand and more so with VOC stains. We will write a article soon on the subject.

      Thanks for the post.

      • Tammi says:

        I wanted to make a comment on what Jon typed about TWP 1500 series. I just finished a large project using to TWP 100 series on new wood – old wood – treated and cedar – various mix of woods. I tried the darkest color in the 1500 series on one of my post caps only to experiment as I wanted dark caps. I did notice a difference in how long it took for the 1500 series to dry compared to the 100 series. I'm almost 100% percent sure I applied to much stain on it because a lot of cracks and crevices to get into…but the other post cap I did the same thing on using the 100 series. I didn't however see any sticky stuff the next day on that one. I can see where being conservative with the brush on the 1500 series might be good. The 100 series is a little more forgiving as I think unless you are heavy handed with the second coat it dries right up like the first coat.

  31. Rebecca says:

    Hello, just want to thank you for this awesome site…ok so I rented a floor sander and brought splintered deck to smooth surface. I stripped and brightened my 8 year old redwood deck…I chose 3 gallons of California Redwood. Will that be enough for my 600 sq. ft. deck…plan on doing two coats?

    • Rebecca, for one coat you would want about 4 gallons and for 2 coats you would need 6 gallons. Two coats \”wet on wet\” only if the wood is very thirsty and the first coat penetrates in deeply.

  32. Steve Parlow says:

    Hello, I'm planning to stain a pine privacy fence about 190' in length and 4.5' tall and a small deck area about 100 square feet. How many gallons of TWP 1500 stain would I need to cover this area? The RAD product description says how many feet of fence it can clean…is there something similar for TWP 1500 stain? Thanks. -Steve

  33. Mike says:

    I am building a new home and using Western Red Cedar tongue and groove siding. Home will be done by mid summer 2014. Milwaukee Wisconsin area.

    The Western Red Cedar Lumber Association strongly recommends pre staining, and staining ALL sides of the cedar. TWP has directly told me NOT to do this, to only stain the exposed area, and only do so after 6-12 months of exposure (using the gemini restore kit first).

    I know you guys here really like TWP, but I have also read it is not your favorite for brand new weed, or first time applications. Can you give me your thoughts on back staining siding and what stain you do recommend for first time application? the cedar association strongly recommended applying stain before the wood is exposed to elements. It just makes sense to me, but I do not want to use a stain that will peel or fail.

    Thanks, looking forward to your comments.

    • Mike, as contractors we never pre stain all sides prior to install. The stain is really just for exposed areas and would have little to no benefit for the back (unexposed) areas. All stains are different though so best to follow manufacturers suggestion on this. For new wood we like to use Armstrong Clark as it does penetrate the wood better. Either TWP or Armstrong should have new wood season for a time before install. A light cleaning is needed as well to open the grain and remove the mill glaze. This articles will explain better:

  34. Jay says:

    We bought the cedartone stain for a new treated deck. We waited 5 months before applying and had a professional stain the deck for us. The color is peach to orange and looks bad. It is flat and what I would say cheap looking. Not happy at all with this product. I was hoping to use on all our decks, but I am done with this product and will look at getting stained a better color with a better product.

    • Jay, TWP and most decking stains will have a \”flat\” non shiny appearance as they are penetrating semi-transparent stains. They do not film on top of the wood, creating a shine. Shiny coatings on a deck create major issues with peeling and mold. Always best to test colors out first as well. Many companies offer samples. Sorry you did not like the appearance.

  35. RimrockRancher says:


    I'm building an arbor for wisteria vines out of either new pressure-treated pine or new redwood. I live in the Southern California high desert, extreme sun conditions almost all year round, summer temps regularly up over 100 degrees, winter temps dip below freezing for a few weeks out of the season, very little snow or rain, but when it does precipitate, it is hard and heavy. So, weather conditions are extreme. However, eventually, if all goes well, the wisteria will grow over and shade much of the wood, the arbor is being build on the east side of the house, there is a shade tree on the south side of the arbor, etc., so there will be some 'protection'. HOWEVER, when the wisteria has grown over the structure, cleaning, re-sealing, etc. won't really be an option… so with all of that said… what do you recommend for a stain/sealant? I'd love to stain/seal all the wood before assembly, but have heard you should wait up to a year for the wood to weather and acclimate itself? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!

    • RimrockRancher, with TWP you will need to wait at least a few months. Really should wait with any brand as the stain will have difficulty penetrating now. Armstrong Clark will penetrate new wood better. If we were doing the job we would have it installed, prep with a cleaner and wood brightener after a few months, then stains with a color like Amber in the Armstrong Clark.

  36. Kristi says:

    We built a deck in June/July of last summer with new, wolmanized wood. We waited to stain until now. I'm wondering if you would recommend the TWP 1500, one of the Defy's, or the Armstrong for our deck. We live in western Pennsylvania and the deck gets full sun. Also — is a good scrubbing with a pressure washer enough? Or do we really need to apply a cleaner and brightener? One or two coats? Love your site!


    • Kristi, yes you need a cleaner and brightener for the prep. I would suggest the Armstrong Clark stain for this. 2 light coats wet on wet application.

      • Kristi says:

        thanks for getting back to me! so — if we use the cleaner – can we get away with not using the brightener (just trying to cut down on cost)? also – does the cleaner take the place of power washing — or do we power wash first and then use the cleaner? can you recommend a good cleaner?


  37. Sam says:

    I am building a wood pergola in St. George Utah. The climate is simular to Phoenix, but a little colder in the winters. It gets VERY hot here in the summers with 15 hours of blasting sunlight in the summer. Other pergolas here seem to chip (both the stain and the wood seperate) and crack. What product would you reccomend for this extreem weather environment?

  38. Joe says:

    We live in the Greater Toronto area and have a very large, approx 12 year old red cedar deck. It is built around a large Maple tree and is therefore in shade for most of the summer months. When we moved in approx 8 yrs ago, the deck had never been treated and had greyed. We cleaned the deck and applied a Behr product which did not wear well at all. We ended up removing it and sanding the whole deck. At that time we had used Cabot's Australian Timber oil and loved the way it performed. It lasted for several years with an occasional touch up on spots that saw more sun. Last year we re sanded again as we had to replace sections that were rotting. We were fortunate to have scrounged enough Cabot's Australian Timber oil from leftovers and family who used the same product. We used it sparingly so that it would be enough for our whole deck (approx 900 sq ft). Right now, we'd like to reapply something that would help maintain our work from last year. Would the TWP 1500 work for us?

  39. Jessica Rich says:

    Selling 5 gallons brand new of twp 1500 dark oak near Philadelphia
    Go look on philadelphia Craig's list.
    We purchased it for our deck but we changed our mind and we're trying to avoid shipping it back.
    Jessica e Rich at gmail dot com

  40. G Dub says:

    I have three comments / questions:
    1) I have a 196sf CCA deck ready to apply 'Olympic Rescue It' tinted Winning Red – should go down ok,
    2) All original cedar railings have been removed and 6" x 6" cedar posts have been sanded smooth ( to remove old Cetol stain ). will apply TWP 1502 Redwood stain. Same on newly constructed deck and stair rails. Using DecKorator's black Al balusters,
    3) now to the main question – I have removed and replaced the eight CCA steps from the deck to the patio with new YellaWood planks. I sanded the cedar risers smooth. I have CCA stair stringers exposed on either end.
    What is the BEST stain to use on these surfaces? Brand and type ( semi-trans or opaque? )

  41. Christine says:

    So glad I stumbled upon this website! I live in Northern NJ and have two PTW decks which are in bad need of refinishing. No idea what product was used to stain them previously. I had planned on using a Benjamin Moore stain but after reading all the awful reviews TWP seems like a much wiser choice! I was told that to prep the decks I only need to use cleaner and brightener, but do you recommend stripping them too? One of the decks is by our pool….do I have to use different products to clean and strip that area? Thanks for your advice!

  42. Kevin says:

    We have freshly milled redwood siding from reclaimed tank staves. We were thinking about going to Penofin route but after reading reviews it seems we should check out other options. It will all be vertical surfaces in Western WA. Our biggest concern is protection from graying, no mold, and ease of application and of course durability. We have over 1200 sq ft to do. We are planning on prefinishing before application.

    What would you recommend as the best product for new wood? We thought we would lightly sand each piece to open up the pores. We've also been told by the mill that this redwood is fairly absorbent.

    I ordered samples of the Defy Extreme and TWP 1500. Seems like one is water based and one oil based. Opinions would be greatly appreciated.

    • Both are good choices and will work well for this vertical redwood. Oils in general apply easier as they do not dry as quickly. Both will do well with color retention and mold. It\’s a toss up as you will be happy with either. Might just come down to color.

  43. Clay says:

    I live in south Florida and have a 6 month old pressure treated pine deck, approximately 2500sqft. Half of the deck gets full sun and the other half gets 1/2 sun. Part of the deck is around a pool, so is exposed to water on a daily basis. I have decided to use TWP in honeytone, but wondering whether to use the TWP 100 or 1500? What is the benefit of 1 over the other? I plan on using the cleaner/brightener prior to stain.

  44. Debbie says:

    What color is the deck in the picture? Thanks

  45. Christine says:

    I'm looking for a light finish for my deck while still getting some UV protection. Don't want it too yellow. Would you recommend the Natural Tone or Cedar Tone? It's hard to tell the difference.

  46. Janis Grundmann says:

    I have a 50 ' x 20' older deck of treated wood. Some of the boards are being replaced. We just power washed the entire deck and would like to apply a stain. This is a pool area deck that gets mostly full sun. I read that we should wait 2 weeks for the new boards? And do I need to prep with anything or just use the TWP 1500? Thanks

  47. Kathy Yeo says:

    We have a deck made of cambara and ipe that is 5 years old. When new it was treated with Penofin which lasted about 6 months. A second treatment with Penofin lasted about another 6 months. Then we tried Thompsons Water Seal. That allowed the water to bead on the surface but not much else. The deck has turned grey but has been recently power washed. We live in New Hampshire and the deck goes thru hot summers and cold winters (we keep the snow shoveled off the deck in winter). Our research for a new finish has us thinking of two options – TWP1500 or a urethane finish from US Coating Solutions.
    Looking for advise and recommendations please.

    • Never put a urethane on outside wood! You need an exotic hardwood stain. TWP 1500 is not one. With your wood type you will need to reapply every year. Nothing will last longer. Do not believe any claims otherwise from other manufacturers. Look at Armstrong Clark in one of their hardwood colors Defy Hardwood Stain.

  48. Dona Oliver says:

    A couple years ago I stripped my oldish deck and stained with Cabot Australian Timber Oil, Jarred Brown and loved it. This year, I pressure washed (lightly, just to clean) and started to add a new coat but ran out. Tried to buy more but discovered nobody in my area sells it anymore and then discovered why. (formula change) Obviously I do not want to strip my whole deck which doesn't look bad at all. Is there any possibility of finishing this new coat with another product since I can't buy Cabot anymore (and apparently wouldn't want to with the formula change)?

  49. Crunch says:

    I used TWP 1500 Cedartone to refinish one of the largest western red cedar homes on the east coast and it came out looking fantastic compared to products used in previous refinishing. Preparation involved using a two gallon pump sprayer to apply a wood cleaner and brightener, and a light power wash. One coat of TWP was applied with a 5" wide natural hair brush. Application was easy, no runs or visible overlapping. Color appears to be consistent over entire job. Previous products required 20 gallons for job and, with liberal application, I completed job with only 15 gallons of TWP 1500. My only concern now is the durability and appearance over time. I found that Superdeck products, that I used in passed, maintain good appearance for about 2 years ( although I refinish every 5-6 years) and start to look dingy and grey after that. I am looking forward to seeing how TWP lasts over time. Pictures :

  50. Leslie says:

    Hi. I need to stain/seal our 20 year old deck (about 500-600 sq. ft.). It's made of treated pine and has been sealed with Thompson's (or the like) several times in the past (but not in about 5 years, maybe longer). Can I just pressure wash it and then apply a new stain/sealer? And which sealer would you recommend? This is in the Texas gulf coast area. Thanks.

Leave a Reply