This post was updated on January 25, 2025
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior hardwood decking. My Armstrong Clark hardwood deck stain review is based on my history as a wood restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing, all designed to present you with the top deck stain tips. See here for more info about me.
Armstrong Clark Hardwood Stain Reviews
Armstrong Clark Hardwood Stain
A high-solid pigmented finish made from heavy and light-bodied oils specially formulated for application on unpainted hardwoods. Heavy-bodied oils provide water repellency. Extra pigments provide enhanced color retention on hardwoods. Light-bodied oils combined with solvent penetrate into the wood. Armstrong’s Semi-Transparent Hardwood Finishes repels water, retains color longer, and reduces the frequency of re-coats on maintenance-intensive hardwoods.
Important Note: Testing for Exotic Hardwood Deck Stains
Exotic hardwoods such as IPE are extremely dense and difficult to penetrate. When stained, these wood types will always fade faster than other woods such as Cedar, Redwood, and Pine. Testing for exotic hardwoods will be changed to 1 year instead of 2 years.
Armstrong Clark Hardwood Stain
How I Rated Armstrong Clark Hardwood Deck Stain
My Armstrong Clark hardwood deck stain review contains an 8-step process and the final average score. Each step is on a scale of 1-10.
- The appearance of Armstrong Clark hardwood deck stain after Application
- Preventing UV Graying
- Peeling or Wearing for Armstrong Clark hardwood deck stain
- Cost Per Square Foot
- Preventing Mold and Mildew
- How Easy was the Armstrong Clark hardwood deck stain Application
- Color Shifting
- Ease of Reapplication
- Armstrong Clark hardwood deck stain Final Score
8-Step Review of Armstrong Clark Hardwood Deck Stain
1. Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 9
The Armstrong Clark in Mahogany had a very rich look on our IPE test deck. We applied one coat of the Mahogany color to enhance the natural colors of the IPE with a reddish-brown color. The stain did not film on the surface but was absorbed into the wood.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Photos
2. Preventing UV Graying at 1 Year Mark: 8
We found that Armstrong Clark in Mahogany outperformed all other Hardwood deck stains when it comes to color retention on Ipe. Many of the stains we tested had lost color within 8 months, while Armstrong still had a decent amount of color. See the picture below for a sample board that we tested.
3. Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
Armstrong Clark Hardwood stain did not peel on our test deck. A small amount of wear was noticeable around the door. Armstrong penetrates very well into IPE wood.
13 Months AC Mahogany
4. Cost Per Square Foot: 8
Armstrong Clark retails for $43.99 per gallon for the hardwood colors. We used 1 gallon of stain for our 300 sq. foot IPE test deck. This is very reasonable for a quality stain.
5. Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 8
We had a small amount of black mold growing on the stain after 13 months. Very minor but worth noting.
6. Ease of Application: 9
We are fans of AC staining when it comes to applications. It absorbs deeply, spreads far, and dries evenly. Less excess stain to back wipe than other hardwood deck coatings that we have tested.
7. Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8
As you can see from the picture above, Armstrong in the Mahogany fades in color and does not darken or turn black.
8. The Difficulty of Reapplication: 9
The AC needs to be cleaned with a deck cleaner to remove the small amount of mold and dirt or grime. Once this was done, a light coating of stain would need to be reapplied to restore the color and prolong the graying better.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Hardwood Stain at 1-Year Period: 8.5
Thus far, we have yet to test or see a hardwood deck stain perform better than the Armstrong Clark on IPE when it comes to fading. We have also used the Amber color that they offer. It fades a little faster than the Mahogany but still retains excellent overall color.
Easy to Apply, Excellent color retention, and no issues with reapplication on an annual basis.
Product Information:
More Info: ArmstrongClarkStain.com
Cost: $49.99 per Gallon, $254.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Oil-Based Stains for Exotic Woods
Available Colors: Hardwood Amber, Hardwood Mahogany
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-300 sq. ft on exotic hardwoods
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: IPE
Deck Square Footage: 300
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 1 Year
Stain Color Used: Mahogany
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Consider that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
The Best IPE Hardwood Deck Stain Video – DeckStainHelp.com
I am putting down blue stain t&g SYP on a fully covered deck. Screens in summer, homemade storm windows in winter. No rain, no snow and very little early morning sun on the deck, but I am in NE PA,, so temps from 0f to 90f and humidity from 40% to 100%. I want a clear coat that will protect the wood from moisture but flex with the wood movement. I have experience using Seal Once, TWP 1500, Cutek and AC, but Not with a clear finish. A major consideration is ease and frequency of recoating (I’m 73). Recommendations?
Please clarify. You are staining first with a “blue” stain and then you want to clear coat over that? You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain.
Blue stain pine is pine that was infected by a beetle that stains the wood blue before it is cut into lumber (then killed by kiln drying). Sometimes called denim pine. I want a clear finish to preserve the blue/white color. But I want to “humidity-proof” the wood and provide friction protection.
It is not possible to preserve the color. Clear sealers offer no UV resistance. It must be a tinted stain. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/will-a-clear-sealer-prevent-graying-on-deck/
We have a 10 year old Ipe deck that we just had power-washed and there are some minor imperfections on the wood due to spot sanding and wear and tear scratching. After some research, it seems like Armstrong-Clark is best oil stain to use. Due to the age of the deck, should we go with the stain made for specifically for Hardwoods or will their Semi-Solid Stains work just as well? Which will offer the best protection? Appreciate your help!
You must use one of their 3 hardwood colors.
Thank you for the quick and helpful response!
Your website is an amazing place of info! I have a new Mahogany deck that I’d like to have a more natural / weathered look. Which stain would you suggest that will still protect the wood but mellow over time for a more weathered look? Or should I leave it to weather for a few months / year before re-sanding and staining? Thank you!
You want it to gray naturally? It is not possible to maintain the current look and prevent graying at the same time.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/will-a-clear-sealer-prevent-graying-on-deck/
Thank you Scott. Which is the best clear sealer that you’d recommend?
TWP 1500 Series in Clear.
Hi there, any recommendations for a stain/colour match for the photos attached. Its Mahogany wood for an outdoor bar top. Cheers
Try Light Walnut color by Restore A Deck stains.
We need to stain a brand new 17 piece teak furniture set. Located in the northeast. Will be outdoors from May – October. Stored inside for winter. Customer is looking for a dark brown finish that is flat. Is AC the way to go? Better solution available?
Sure, the AC should work after. Another option would be Restore A Deck Stain.
Thanks for the advice.
Quick followup note to my previous post a few minutes ago. The AC semi has a minimum application temp of 50 degrees, but the AC hardwood is lower at 45 degrees. We are still determining whether to go w/ AC Hardwood Amber or semi transparent natural oak. The Amber is intriguing since it seems richer looking. It would give us a little more freedom to start sooner given the lower application temp. Decks are PT, sheds are T111 siding, I think Amber could look good even though surfaces are not hardwood.
Amber is a color that can be used on all wood types but is also a suggested color for exotic hardwoods. It is not any different in formula than the other semi-transparent colors of the AC. You are splitting hairs with the difference between 45 and 50 as there is none.
Really appreciate your website and the testing you’ve done to determine effectiveness of the different stains. We are in New England are planning to apply AC semi transparent this spring on decks, fence and sheds. I see that some stains have an application temperature as low as 45 degrees. But AC has a 50 degree minimum. Being late April, we are still just getting into the 50s during the day, but the night temps go back down to 40s. We would like to get this going soon but also want to make sure minimum temperature is properly followed. When an application temperature is provided, is that a sustained temperature required that includes the drying and curing time several hours after application? Or is it ok if the minimum temperature is met at time of application, but then starts to go down below minimum a few hours later?
Thank you.
Application temp is in the 50s. If it drops below that the first night into the 40s you are okay but it will take longer to fully cure in those temps. It should not ever drop near freezing the first night.
Have been looking over the reviews and AC semi transparent has come up as a good option for our PT decks, T11 shed and fence. I saw how the AC hardwood stain seems to offer better UV protection. Since we will have a lot of sun exposure, was thinking maybe use the hardwood stain for our application to take advantage of the extra UV protection. And the Amber color in AC hardwood seems fairly close to the Natural Oak we would choose in the semi transparent AC. Can this work w/ out causing any issues? Using a hardwood stain on a PT deck and T11 shed?
The AC hardwood colors do not offer any difference in protection compared to the other AC colors that are semi-transparent. They will be better than the AC Transparent color tones. Amber is a semi-transparent and is richer than the Natural Tone. You can use it on all wood types.
Hello
Read a lot of valuable information on here but would need clarification. Planning to stain a few IPE decks & stairs – total 900/1000sq ft to cover. First planning to use RAD cleaner & brightener and rinse off with scrubbing brush. Would pressure washer be better than brush to rinse off?
Most decks are greyed out with mildew area since stained done over a year ago so what is best cleaner or stripper? Some decks are protected over winter so old stain still showing. For those, should the stripper not the cleaner be used before the brightener?
For staining, read good on AC stain in mahogany or black walnut for IPE decks. Would 1 coat be enough?
Also if using the RAD stain, beside being able to do it all in a day or so is there any difference in how much longer the stain will last compared to AC stain applied after fully dry only?
What quantity of products should I order for project? Pictures shows decks & stairs & those area left covered over winter vs not covered showing old stain visible.
Last question can any of those products & process be applied for other exterior areas with wood like front door or garage doors that need to be stained?
Thanks in advance for the great help!
-Yes, use a pressure washer. Much easier.
-Use the stripper where you have old stain. Cleaner where gray. Brighen all when done.
-Only one coat is needed for IPE wood.
-Not really, they last about the same. One year for IPE wood and then clean and recoat.
-About 3-5 gallons of stain. One RAD Stripper and one RAD Cleaner. 1-2 of the RAD Brighteners.
Not sure about the doors or garage. Depends on wood type, etc.
I followed the directions and used Restore-A-Deck stripper and brightener to prepared a 10 year old IPE deck which was previous stained with Flood CWF-Hardwood stain. The temperature is 55 day and 50 overnight. I applied Armstrong-Clark Mahogany with a stain pad and it looks very even when done. Now overnight it seems to be absorbed unevenly to show a lot of wood grain. The stain still not dried and came off if wiped. Should I wipe more stain to the lighter area?
Try applying another coat to one board only end to end and see how it dries over the next couple of days.
Now about 20 hours after the first coat and it started to rain (in San Francisco) and the rain will continue for the next 3 days. I covered the entire (10×13) deck with heavy plastic and will try another coat after dry weather returns. Will let you know how it works.
Uncover it. The rain will not bother it and it needs to cure out.
BTW, after applied the stripper, I used a Palmyra stiff brush on the IPE and a lot of slimy stuff came off, much more than I expected since the old stain from several years ago seemed to have nearly all wore off. After brightener and thorough rinsing/drying, the wood felt very rough. Did I damage the IPE by working too hard on it?
Doubt it but possible.
It has been raining constantly and I never had a chance to try another coat. However, when the deck got wet again some color returns (see photo below). As soon as it dries up, it went back to the faded color above (now with a bit more red tint). I suspect the cool weather slowed the curing and the rain (started 24 hour after staining and continued for days) washed the stain away. What is the acceptable weather condition for the oil-based stain? Is Day 56 / night 48 / no rain for 5 consecutive days OK? Or I better hold off until next summer when it consistently stays above 60 with no rain.
Spring would be better. Clean first.
Here are the pictures.
Hello! Need some guidance on how to fix our IPE clad garage door. We recently installed a massive mahogany front door installed with a light custom stain. The millworker said he would stain our garage to match the new front door and we somehow ended up with a yellow garage. They used and oil stain so 1) not sure how to get off. Do we strip and sand? 2) once we have a clean slate, is there any stain or paint on the market you have ever seen work to make custom color for IPE?
I know IPE is not intended to be painted, but we can’t afford to refinish the garage door in mahogany to match the front door. Trying to find a more economical solution to the aesthetic nightmare we’re now in the middle of. For future reference, if we decide to replace the IPE with mahogany later, will it hold up with full sun and rain- in South Florida no less? Including our before and after. Thanks in advance for any guidance- this site it amazing!
Is the yellow after being stained? What is the dark red picture on the right? That looks like how IPE should look when stained.
As for removing, we would need to know that stain brand and type? You cannot custom mix IPE stain colors.
In 2019 I built an ipe deck with ipe guardrails and stairs. The deck was stained with Cabot Australian Timber Oil. The areas of the deck that receive full sun have lost all the finish and are beginning to turn gray. Areas which are in the shade still look pretty good. The Cabot stain was recommended by my contractor. I realize now that it was not the best choice. I would like to refinish the ipe with your stain. How do I prepare the deck to get the best results? Does the original stain need to be removed? What should be done about the areas where the ipe has turned gray? Once your stain has been applied how do I maintain a consistent appearance of the finish for the areas in full sun and shade?
Yes, you need to remove. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener Kits on all areas. Clean and recoat annually when dealing with IPE wood.
So happy I found your site! We have a 360 sq ft screened room with ipe decking. I think they were installed over a tarred subfloor. I mention this because there isn’t open air underneath, and we live in a hot, humid environment 6+ months of the year, which is then just temperate and humid the remainder. The deck was installed last year and finish still looks great. Don’t know finish used. Would like to apply ipe oil (or Armstrong?) to keep finish looking nice. Would Armstrong be easier for me as a novice? To prep, would it be sufficient to damp mop with household cleanser as prep if the existing finish looks good? And apply armstrong over top? Concerned about making the floor super wet when cleaning and it not drying properly. Obviously rain blows in there somewhat and it dries fine, but I don’t know how a true soaking from pressure washing or hosing down post-cleaner or brightening would do. Concerned about mildew or mold. What do you recommend? Thank you!
Use the Armstrong Clark. You cannot mop for prep. Need a Deck Cleaner and then wood brightener while pressure washing for prep. Let dry for 2-3 days and then stain.
Thank you for your advice! We will try it and will post back.
Oh, what psi do you recommend for pressure washing if it’s just light dirt/grime, to prep? Thanks again.
1500-2000 PSI.
Thanks again for your help. Doing more research using your site. I saw your review of the RAD hardwood all-in-one day product, which sounds really appealing just for time sake, plus weather is hard here to get several dry days in a row. That would be comparable to the Armstrong product for ipe? Is there a strong advantage for the water-based vs the oil-based for ipe?
Yes, the RAD work just as good. No advantage outside of doing it all in one day.
Sorry, me again. Found out the original finish applied was ipe oil. To prep to apply the water-based RAD stain, can I just clean&brighten using a power washer? Or would I need to strip&brighten? Thanks much. Learning a lot.
Strip and brighten.
Thank you. Any advice for protecting the screens and frames from being corroded by the stripper? Screens to the floor, ipe on both sides, with metal rail. Grateful to you all.
The stripper should not harm it but all the debris and old stain that comes off the deck will make a mess of the screen. No way to protect, so best to remove it if possible.
Thank you so much. Will use your instructions on a different deck that’s open and will allow this room to gray naturally.
I applied the sample of Mahogany to my 15 year old IPE deck. Prior to application, i sanded it smooth and removed all of the previous stain. The Mahogany was too red, do you have a recommendation for a “medium brown” color? Thank you
Try their Amber color. Or possibly a mix of Amber and Black Walnut.
my IPE deck is about 600 sq ft and I plan on using a “hardwood floor” sander to strip the Cabot’s Timber oil off. do I need to do anything to the wood before applying the AC Mahogany stain?
Clean and brighten the wood after. Do not sand finer than 80 grit.
I have an old deck that was stained with Armstrong-Clark Mahogany last summer and I want to re-stain it with the same. I applied it incorrectly, and has faded with some green and dark spots in places.
Should I strip or clean?
Also, when is sanding performed? After cleaning/stripping?
Probably best to strip and then brighten the wood. No need to sand.
Hi, so once my new IPE is installed next week, I will let is breathe for 3 months. Then, what steps do I need to take prior to staining it with AC Amber? Also, do I need to apply oil too at any point? Or only AC Amber stain?
You will clean and brighten for prep then apply the AC stain. You do not apply anything else.
I have an ipe deck I am looking to reclaim for letting go grey. I used woodrich hardwood wiping stain initially probably 2014, and nothing since. There is still some stain in a covered gazebo and rails. I’m wanting to go with I think armstrong Clark amber or mahogany (samples are incoming to test colors). There is some mold and algae. Do I need RAD stripper or just cleaner? I’m thinking stripper to be safe. Any significant advantages of Armstrong Clark over the woodrich or Defy hardwood? This is in Maryland, somewhat near the bay, with snow and some sun exposure.
If you still have any old stain then strip and brighten for prep. We like both the Defy and AC for hardwoods. One is not significantly better.
I have an aluminum under mount below my ipe deck. Would penofin cleaner/brighter have a crossover effect on the metal?
Should not harm it.
We recently purchased a house with about 1400 sq ft of ipe decking/dock located on saltwater in SW Florida. Decking is ~15 years old and is totally grey and dry. I don’t know if the prior owner always left it natural or just ceased maintaining any stain many years ago, but it does not appear to have any color or finish whatsoever. Should we use the RAD stripper just in case it was previously stained or sealed many years ago, or is the RAD cleaner sufficient? Do you recommend RAD wood stain or A-C hardwood stain for the ipe after it is stripped/cleaned/brightened? Looking for a fairly light, natural color (understanding that a lighter stain will fade faster than darker stain). Thanks.
Use the cleaner, not the stripper. Either the RAD stain or the AC stain would work for this. Amber for the AC or Natural for the RAD.
Thanks. A couple of follow-up questions:
1. For a prepping a deck this grey, do you think a single pass with RAD cleaner and brightener will do the trick? Trying to figure out how much to order.
2. Would you recommend pressure washing in conjunction with RAD? If yes, when would I do that? After applying RAD cleaner and scrubbing the heck out of it with a brush? Can pressure washing take the place of laborious scrubbing?
3. Do you lean one way or the other on RAD wood stain vs AC hardwood? Looking for straightforward/foolproof application for a DIY weekend warrior and what will look and perform best between reapplications (ideally I’ll reapply annually). Is one stain easier to work with or clean up, or more forgiving of spills, drips, mistakes? Does one hold up better in saltwater/sunshine/chlorine from pool water/heavy leaf and pollen litter/dog accidents? I’m not trying to do this in a compressed timeframe, so the waiting/drying time before applying AC is not an issue.
Thanks again for your helpful advice.
1. It should but you may need to go over it twice.
2. Yes, pressure wash. Apply the cleaner and then pressure wash off. Do not need to scrub.
3. Both will work about the same and last the same. AC might be a little easier to apply but takes longer to cure and dry. RAD is quicker as it can all be done in one day.
Do I need to brighten an unstained ipe deck (2 yes) after power washing and before staining with Armstrong Clark?
Celan and brighten is the proper prep.
We have a 2 year old IPE frontdeck and rooftop deck. Unstained. It’s naturally turned gray which we actually like. We’d like to get it oiled/stain for longevity (starting to crack).
After pressure washing, what’s the next step? What’s the best oil/stain to use? Thanks!
Try the Armstrong Clark in Amber color.
I have 17 year old IPE deck that had old Sikkens that is next to impossible to get off. Tried restore a deck, tried sanding, scraping, now back to sanding again. once complete I have a dilemma. I have 2 gallons of old sealed deckwise IPE oil (bought 5 years ago) Do I use that for the deck approx 430 sq feet or is it no good since it’s 5 years old or should I just go for Armstrong Clark Mahogany stain? 1/2 of the deck is covered , 1/2 is exposed. I live in VA so temps are hot in the summer. Can I apply either the IPE oil or Armstrong product early in the AM this time of year or do I need to wait until Sept / Oct when it’s cooler? Is the Deckwise and Armstrong application a similar process with a few boards at a time, wait , then wipe off excess ?
I doubt the Ipe Oil is any good if 5 years old. Does not matter when you do it. Now or Fall. Either way, you will have to clean and recoat the IPE every year. The AC is not back wiped to remove excess. The IPE Oil is.
Thank you Your website is very informative. our 18×14 portion gets tons of sun, 15×11 is fully covered, realizing I will need to refinish all of it every year , if I read your reviews correctly you prefer the Armstrong over the Ipe Oil or am I misreading? Getting the old Sikkens off is crazy hard. Even hand sander wont work, I need to get a heavy duty belt sander. If I apply Armstrong early in the AM but then sun beats down on it will it bubble? I contemplated getting tarp that can be suspended over it once done to keep it shaded. thoughts? Thanks again great site
AC is better than Ipe Oil. The AC is not harmed by the sun when applying or after.
Thank you. One last question. I have stripped and brightened with restore a deck, amazing how good the wood looks. Now waiting for right window with weather to seal.
There are 2 or 3 spots where the old product didn’t fully come off. If I used 60 or 100 Grit with hand sander do I then need to brighten again or can I just vacuum up / wipe off and I can still finish?
If you spot sand then the stain while probably take lighter in those areas. Not always a good idea.
Ok I should have listened. Now I have learned. I wound up moving ahead with the IPE oil, I hate the way it looks Thankfully I only did about 3/4 of the deck and not the railings so only 1-2 days lost. Back wiping the IPE oil is painful process. So here is my new plan and a few questions:
1. Use restore a deck stripper and brightener again. Should I consider the restore a deck stripper booster or no? Do you recommend this product it seems to have worked well.
2. Going to use the Armstrong Clark Ipe stain Mahogany color. Should I apply with a stain pad, brush or roller or another method? Stain pad seems easiest, if so, what brand should I use? Or do you prefer spray/roller?
3. If I use pad or roller, should I paint in the gaps first in between boards?
4. No need to wipe this product correct? So I can do the entire 15/x11 area without having to pause and wait for sections to dry or should I just do 4-5 boards at a time?
Do we order through your site somehow? How do you get paid for your advice? You have been spot on would like to order supplies through whoever you work for. Thank you.
1. I do not think you will need the booster. We use the RAD stripper all the time.
2. Stain pads are best. Any quality brand should work.
3. No need.
4. If you need to back wipe the AC it should be after a few hours, not right away.
We do not sell from this site. Advice is free here.
Hello,
I have a mahogany porch floor and covered walk way floor. It is 22 years old. I am sanding the old finish off. I previously used Sikkens Cetol DEK Finish translucent satin finish.(Now owned by PPG) It is peeling in some areas. What prep and stain do you recommend?
Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener for the prep and then the Armstrong Clark Stain in one of their 3 hardwood colors.
Greeting… I applied AC Ipe Stain (Mahogany) on my Ipe deck 2 years ago and it held up quite well.
I want to reapply the same this year.
So, to prepare the deck need to use the stripper OR is the cleaner/brightener all I need?
THANKS
Cleaner and brightener.
The Armstrong is my favorite stain. We used it 3 years ago and it still looks pretty good. We want to apply another coat to the floors this year. What should we do for the prep?
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
Wow….there’s a ton of info here, and elsewhere, much conflicting, on protecting IPE decking. I’m finishing an IPE deck in California foothills at 3100 foot elevation: it’s 600 square feet: it gets 100 degrees in summer, everyday for three months, and it gets a number of hours of direct sun. In fall and winter, lots of rain and even snow in winter.
I’ve read you should not sand IPE more than absolutely necessary.
I’ve read that Flood CWF Hardwoods, a water based sealer, held up better at the 1 year timeline than many oil based sealers in a test, as far as protecting from fading/greying. Your thoughts on this?
Aslo, it was said that the Flood CWF is easier to re-coat the following year, as you just clean with a “rewoodenate” product, pressure wash, and then re-coat with the CWF Hardwoods. And the water based sealer can be recoated immediately when wet.
I don’t want to have to strip any coating off my deck in the future, so I like the idea of waterbased sealers. So what are your thoughts on this? And is your recommending Armstrong Clark have anything to do with what you sell?
Not a fan of CWF for hardwoods as it peels in our experience meaning you have to strip it when you redo. The info you are reading about redoing the CWF is incorrect. AC is much easier to clean and reapply. As for who we are, that is explained on the very first pager and article.
Thx Mark
So from reading your reviews, you feel Armstrong is the best on IPE, and easier to apply when needed?
1) so installing deck now, should I Wait past winter before cleaning and sealing with Armstrong?
2) What deck cleaner/ brightener would I use before applying sealer?
3). Would that be in conjunction with a pressure washer, or just broom and house?
4) then just apply with pad and wipe excess?
1. Yes.
2. Try the Restore A Deck prep kits.
3. Use a pressure washer.
4. Apply with a pad but do not back wipe the AC. Just one light coat.
Hi Mark:
On the RAD prep kits, I see a stain and a stripper product.
Is their an RAD cleaner? I can’t seem to find it.
Yes, there is a Cleaner kit: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
Does this product contain powdered oxolic acid? I used to but that from the hardware store to clean and brighten my deck
You would have to ask them. Oxalic is not a cleaner though but a brightener.
Hi Mark..
Deck is almost done. I see that the Armstrong Clark product is a stain. Is there a clear UV protector? I’d like to preserve the natural variations in color of the Ipe, greens/ black/ browns/ light tan, etc.
Clear without any color = zero UV protection from graying. You have to have a color or tint. The darker the color, the better the UV protection as well.
Would the restore a deck prep kit used annually keep bringing back the natural color if no stain/UV protector were used?
If I do use the stain though, should it be applied right away or after the winter?
It will gray in a matter of months, not a year. Wait until Spring if you apply the stain.
We used Armstrong Clark products to remove the previous wood stain and coating from our EPI wood steps for our Hot Tub. Once the steps were clean, sanded with 60 grit, and completely dry we applied Armstrong Clark Mahogany oil stain. The Risers are a dark rich Mahogany color, while the top of the Steps have an orange hew. We prefer the dark rich Mahogany color. Should we apply a second coat? See attached pictures. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
No, do not add more. It will not darken it and it will be over-applied at that point.
Over time will the Orange hew areas on the EPI Steps darken? Should we apply a darker different color in 9 to 12 months?
Over time it will not darken. You could try using a mix of Black walnut and Mohogany when you redo.
Over time will the Orange hew areas darken? Or in 9 to 12 months could we use a darker stain than Mahogany?
Will the stain darken over time? What is causing the Orange hew color on the top of each step?
Probably the sanding caused it to take the stain lighter in color.
We used Penofin on our IPE deck last year, and we were not happy with initial color and now it is faded back to a light brown/grey. We have a lot of Penofin cleaner and brighter left. Can we use that to clean/brighten then use Armstrong Clark stain or Messmers for hardwood?
No, you need to strip and brighten for prep.
We just finished building our deck in Red Balau. We live in Vermont and I am wondering which sealant is best. We want the natural wood color to show through, but to have good UV protectant. I know there is a difference between exotic hard woods and other wood so which would you recommend?
The AC hardwood colors would work very well.
Installed 2×4 ipe tiles few weeks ago in Montreal Canada, supposedly they’re raw but top grade from Bolivia.
The installed picture is after a rain and i love that color but it reverts back to natural after it dries.
Now the more sites i read the more contradictory information I get on how to get that color and whether i should’ve applied it before exposing it to the rain and sun (I’m afraid i already see some splitting/checking i didn’t see beforehand)
Any advice i should do at this point to avoid more checking and get that nice color?
New wood has to weather and be prepped: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Once this is done, prep and stain with Armstrong in Amber color for the look you want.
Deck Stain Help
Hi .. I inquired on your site on May 22, 2018 about a southeast facing IPE deck in LA area w direct sun and summer heat. I had been using AC Mahogany but inquired if there was anything that lasted beyond 9 months. The advice was to use the restore a deck cleaner and brightener instead of sanding as the prep.
We did all this per instructions and then reapplied the semi transparent AC-M 2 days ago. It looks very blotchy and uneven . In some places the stain appears to have not adhered . There is no lustrousness to the stain. My painter says “I told you I should have sanded”.
Last displayed Photo 4 ..(761)is the old stain applied in 2014 with a rich look that rivals some of the pictures on your site .
Photos 1,2,3 are of the deck which was stained 2 days ago w pads and wiping off the excess after restore a deck cleaner and brightener was applied a week earlier ..
Do you have any comment why it does not look like your pictures of an AC-Mahogany stain ?….or for that matter even my pictures of my deck years ago with the same stain with sanded prep?
Thx so much for your site and feedback
DWymore
You have a wonderful site. I have thoroughly enjoyed and learned tremendously from you. Refinishing ipe deck on bald head island off coast of NC. Any particular product work better surrounded by the ocean?
The AC products work great for IPE. It is one of our go-to stains.
Can I use this over a Penofin stained deck? Context: just finished building and staining our brand new deck. Let my kid play on it with water and I’m already seeing grey stains in places where water has sat drying in the sun. Reading your review, I’m horrified what it will look like by summer’s end. Is it possible to do a second coat in a different oil-based stain to avoid the darkening and fading Penofin?
No, but you can easily remove the Penofin. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits.
I have multiple sets of Jensen Leisure Ipe furniture . After using Jensen’s water based protectant several times, they have discontinued and are recommending Penofin Verde for protectant. Penofin is stating that all of the previous water-based Jensen product must be stripped. With 18 pieces this will take me months!!! Any advise on a protectant that I might be able to use that would compatible to use over the Jensen product??
Nothing can go over it. You must strip when switching brands.
i used the 3 part restore a deck products to strip brighten and stain my ipe railings last year. this year i attempted to clean my railings and the stain came off. I am very disapp0inted. I thought the restore a deck products were supposed to be top rated. I followed the process as described on this site. What happened?
Prep products like RAD are designed for reapplication, not general cleaning. You only use them if you are recoating. If you were not planning to recoat, that is not the fault of the cleaner.
Yes I plan to recoat with the same RAD color and product. Are you saying I shouldn’t have used RAD cleaner and brightener before recoating? I was just trying to clean the surface before doing so. I was just surprised that the cleaner took off so much of the previous years stain. Is this a common problem with Ipe? What is the best way to prep Ipe to recoat with same RAD product? Please advise. Thanks for your time.
No, you used the correct product for reapplying. This is normal and what you should do annually for IPE.
I have had a IPE deck for quite a few years and have tried several products. In my opinion … Penofin looks by far the best and looks like furniture when you’re done. 3 months later its 50% gone. If you have nothing to do but stain your deck ever other month, great stuff. I used the regular Defy not realizing my retailer didn’t give me the hardwood stuff. Looked great for one year, ok the 2nd and probably would have looked great again had I done a maintenance coat. Next I tried the actual Defy hardwood product. Definitely didn’t last nearly as long as the regular stuff. Wanting something that could maybe last 3 years I tried this Armstrong oil based on the product reviews. This was the worse. It isn’t very semi, more of a solid which is fine but the stuff never drys and yes I did thoroughly mix it first. 3 months later using a garden hose to wash the deck off you are literally watching your sealant wash off too. Even walking on it 3 months later your white socks will turn red. This year I am back to Defy. Fortunately what is left of the Armstrong oil base comes off pretty easy.
Nothing will last more than 1 year on IPE. There is nothing you can do to make it last longer. It is the wood density that causes this.
Armstrong is not a solid stain by any means. Fully semi-transparent. Sounds like you over applied it based on your comments and it rubbing off. Only apply as much as the wood can absorb.
How does the color compare to Messmer’s MH-500? Is it lighter or darker?
Not sure what you are comparing? Messmers has two hardwood colors and Armstrong has three.
Messmer’s MH-500 is the “Natural” color. How does it compare to the Armstrong Mahogany reviewed here and Amber if you have any experience with that.
Amber is similar to the Messmers Natural. Mahogany is redder like the Messmers Red Mahogany.