This post was updated on January 30, 2023
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Reviews 2023
Here at DeckStainHelp.com we take pride in the fact that we have become the Internet’s number one reference for exterior wood deck restoration topics. Our customers who have used Armstrong Clark wood deck stain continue to be satisfied by the appearance and longevity of their deck stain projects. If you have used Armstrong Clark wood deck stain, we appreciate your input, so feel free to leave a comment below and pictures of your completed projects if you have them.
Armstrong Clark Deck Stain
Important Note: This is our 2nd Review of Armstrong Clark Stain.
See Here for First Review: Armstrong Clark Stain Review
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is an oil-based stain backed by 5 generations of experience in the exterior wood stain industry. Armstrong Clark is offered in 3 different versions: Trans parents, Semi-Transparent, and Semi-Solid Colors.
Armstrong has nondrying conditioning oils that separate from the drying side of the formula. These oils penetrate deep into the wood fiber where the wood’s natural oils used to be.
This process rejuvenates the wood. The drying oils stay at the surface, lock in the conditioning oils and create a dry to the touch barrier. Armstrong’s formulas also contain vegetable oils, transparent oxide pigments, water repellents, mildewcide, and solvents.
Armstrong Clark Stain Ratings (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 9
– We used the Rustic Brown color for our deck. We have used this color many times and really like the look of this. It is mostly brown with a hint of red when applied. Very even appearance after full drying.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Photos
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– We used a semi-transparent color for our second test of the Armstrong Clark. In the first test (2010) we used Mountain Cedar which is a semi-solid color. The Rustic Brown did well but the UV protection was a little less. This is normal for semi-solid colors to have better UV protection and is not related to Armstrong.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
– Armstrong Clark showed no signs of peeling. Slight wearing in the high-traffic areas. Overall AC penetrates deep into the wood grain so peeling was not expected.
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– Armstrong Clark sells at $49.99 for semi-transparent colors. The coverage rate for AC is better than most brands. We used two gallons for 2 coats on the 300 sq. foot deck. AC suggests only one coat but we like to apply two coats to older decking.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 7
– We had minor issues with black mold on the stain. This was mostly on the top of the bench surrounding the deck.
Ease of Application: 9
– We love the way that Armstrong applies. Being that it is a hybrid of both curing and non-drying oils, it is easier than most for the application. In general, the easiest stains to apply will be the ones that contain all non-drying oils. The issue we have found is that these stains types (Ready Seal and Timber Oil Brand) will not fully dry or cure at the surface resulting in a non “seal” of the exposed wood. We tested our application at 90 degrees in the full sun and it still dried evenly. We used a deck stain pad for application.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8
– The AC does not darken in color from UV. It fades through the years. The only darkening was the small amount of mold on the bench.
The Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
– Cleaning with a deck cleaner and light pressure washing will be all that is needed for another coat.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2-Year Period: 8.25
– Armstrong Clark has been one of our tops stains to apply for the past 6 years. We really enjoy the way it applies and the ease of application. The coverage rate is excellent as well. Our customers who have tried the Armstrong Clark have stayed with the brand when it was time to reapply.
Product Information:
More Info: Armstrong Clark Stain
Cost: $46.99 per Gallon, $249.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Cedar Decking
Deck Square Footage: 300
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Semi-Transparent Rustic Brown
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain Review Video
Deck Stain Help & Questions
Stain Reviews & Comparisons
As an article and comment contributor to the site, Scott has been around the pressure washing industry since attending college. In 1993 he started his first company called Oakland Pressure Wash specializing in exterior pressure washing and deck staining. That company evolved into OPW L.L.C. shortly thereafter concentrating more on exterior wood and deck restoration. Scott and his Deck Cleaning Michigan company have restored over 10,000 decks in the Metro Detroit area since the early years. He has become an authority in the deck restoration industry and has contributed to numerous wood restoration forums and informative sites.
All the products he suggests through this site are sold through online sites and in retail stores, allowing the consumer to choose their own means of purchase. Scott’s eCommerce sites do sell many top brands he endorses and if you appreciate any of the help he has offered then feel free to purchase from one of them.
I used TWP on my red cedar fence, and it darkened to a dingy brown after a few years. Will Armstrong Clark last better without darkening?
No, it will perform the same. It is normal to have to prep and redo every few years. The prep will restore the color as well.
What is the best stain for a 2 year old cedar deck in Texas that had Thompsons sealant applied when new?
You will need to strip and brighten for prep first. The Armstrong Clark would work very well for a deck in TX.
I’m ready to order the AC Mountain Cedar Semi-solid stain. I scrubbed the 13 mo. old treated pine deck (1500 sf) about 2 months ago. Do I need to reclean and brighten? How important is the RAD Brightener that corrects the wood PH? We live in central Texas so it’s humid and hot and the wood dries out quickly.
Yes, you have to prep with the Cleaner and then the Brightener. Cannot skip these steps.
Will you please confirm I need to clean and brighten again, even though I did so 2 months ago?
Yes, you will have to redo.
Planning on using AC semi solid Oxford for my railings and stairs that are cedar. How should we maintain the stain. We live on Long Island/NY and our village is on the bay. Lightly power wash 1 or 2xs/year? Thank you for any suggestions. Judy
Just leave as is and rinse off dirt lightly with water if needed. No harsh chemicals.
Hi, I have been trudging through the numerous reviews trying to identify the best way to preserve the color and hard work of the garden arbor I just built. It is 100% cedar and the Colorado sun can be brutal very quickly. I just finished it and I want to seal/stain it before it starts to gray. What do you recommend fo the strong sun? Flood CWF? If so, which one? Or a TWP natural tone? My impression was that the oil-based was better for durability and weather protection. I was originally looking at the Cabot Australian Timber Oil but based on your site, I am reconsidering. Any information is helpful. Thanks!
Try the Armstrong Clark but see this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thanks! I forgot to add that it was all reclaimed wood that was sanded for the arbor. Does that change your recommendation?
No.
I live in NW New Jersey and have a 17-year-old mahogany deck. The deck gets full sun for most of the day, up until about 3:00 in afternoon. We have used a few different products over the years but nothing has really given us more than a year of good coverage. Right now the deck has a lot of splintering, peeling (of old finish) and rotting. We are replacing the rotted boards currently. Recently saw your website — and want to get your advice on restoring this deck properly. My contractor wants to use Sikkens Cerol. Your thoughts please. Thank you!
See this for tips on your wood type: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
We do not like the Sikkens Cetol.
I live on a floating home in Portland OR and used this on a new cedar deck after 9 months of natural weathering. I used a cleaner and brightener before staining. I looked at all the reviews, Defy, beher, TWP etc etc. I choose AC for its oil base and ease stated ease of use and future staining. I am very happy with the choice. I used a semi trans and it looks awesome. Very easy to apply with a roller, took about 3 hours for it start drying which I like knowing it was getting into the pores of the wood. Next day it was dry. I highly recommend AC for your deck.
Do you have a picture to post?
Is it slippery in winter
No.
what is the best rated clear stain for a Mahogany deck? thank you,
ted
Clear as in now color at all? That means you will not have any UV protection if it is not tinted.
Excuse me for cutting into this post, but are telling this person that if he uses a “clear” AC product that has no tint, he will not get any UV protection? I am a newbie here, but I have not seen that in the reading I have these past 3 months.
This is a real question I have, please answer
Clear products will not provide UV protection. They must be tinted.
Excellent site and info. I am in NJ and have a 20 year old 475 sq ft PT pine deck that had Behr Premium solid stain on it that after several solid stain layers over the years started to peel so recently drum sanded down decking to bare wood which looks great. Going for a two-tone deck now so am looking at AC semi-transparent natural oak or rustic brown. I would do the Deck Restore clean and brighten first as recommended and then my questions are:
1.) looking at the decking at night with overhead lighting (not apparent during daylight) notice some slight variation paths where used drum sander cross grain since some boards were slightly cupped so curious if I first need to vibrate finish sand entire deck to ensure all gone otherwise would show up through the AC semi stain?
2.) being that the decking is 20+ years old but in really good shape would I need to do two (wet-on-wet) coats or just one for now and then second coat next spring?
3.) Being that I had to completely drum-sanded deck surface to remove solid stain do I need to wait before staining?
Thanks in advance for your sage advice.
1. Yes, the sanding marks will show.
2. Just one now since you sanded.
3. It would help to wait a few weeks and then prep with Restore A Deck Kits.
Thanks for input. Having second thoughts about whether to go AC semi or perhaps keep with solid stain for decking and go with Flood Pro.
I spoke to a Flood tech and he indicated if we do go solid since I already sanded decking with a drum sander and belt sanded the board edges near railings that I likely have a glaze on surface making it harder for their acrylic stain to adhere to.
So he recommended to help avoid future peeling concerns to clean the deck now to remove any mold/contaminants that may have gotten pushed down into wood with prior sanding efforts in getting Behr solid stain off. He indicated he would then sand decking again with an oscillating or pole sander at 60 grit (80 grit could be used but on edge of what he would ever recommend) which would get rid of any glaze and to then stain right after that final sanding with 2 coats of their Flood Pro at least 4 hours apart.
In reading the info on this site about sanding/cleaning it always mentions to clean after sanding to open pores. Confused, any input?
Cleaning and brightening does help to open the pores after sanding. We would suggest it.
We have a mix of old (20 years) and new pressure treated wood to stain. Deck gets some sun during certain hours, but near a tree line so more shade (half of it is in an enclosed porch if that matters). I would like to complete the staining by the end of summer if possible, including on the new wood. Armstrong site implies that their stain can be applied to new wood in a month or two, but there are no local retailers for Armstrong (or TWP ) near us in Northern Virginia.
Can you recommend some other stains that are more widely available? I can find Flood and Ready Seal and some others from the well known paint and big box stores – would these work well as well, especially considering the new wood, shade and timing aspects noted before?
Thank you.
I am sorry but we do not know what is sold in your area or not. We have yet to find any quality stains at HD or Lowes that would match the AC.
Brand new deck. Atlanta GA, full sun. Built from PT SYP. 400 sqft. No prior stain.
See this article on new decks: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck…
With the Armstrong Clark, wait about 3+ months to season and weather the wood. Prep with a wood deck cleaner and then brightener. Just 1 coat of the AC on new wood.
Where do I buy Armstrong stain?
Contact manufacturer for help.
On the product description it said that: "Wood must be at least 1 year old before applying Armstrong-Clark's semi-solid colors."
Is that also the case with the semi-transparent colors?
No about 3 months for semi-trans.
I have a 3year old IPE deck that I was previously oiling with Penofin Marine. I recently stripped and brightened the deck with restore a deck products before applying Armstrong Clark Amber hardwood stain. I'm concerned with how the product is looking only a week after application. It seems a bit splotchy in areas and it seems many of the boards are starting to lose the stain color already.
I applied the stain using a 3" brush.
I have pictures if you'd like me to send them to you.
Thanks!
You may have under applied. IPE wood is extremely dense wood. Feel free to post a picture in our forum.
I'm not sure how to post a picture in this forum.
How much square footage should I get per gallon of AC Hardwood on an IPE deck? At this point, should I re-strip/brighten, sand and reapply AC?
Thanks!
Yes on the prep. About 300-400 sq. feet per gallon for IPE. You can post in or forum here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stain-forum/dec…
I had mediocre result with AC IPE Stain, just a year ago. My entry is nearly six years old, the first 4-5 years of which Messmer's was used, so I wanted to try AC based on stated reviews. I stripped and brightened and followed application direction. Looked good at first. Only the occasional UPS guy and rare solicitors use the deck in addition to the daily mail delivery/retrieve use. I will try to post before-and-now pics on the form, for you to get a sense of what I'm talking about. I would say the product performed poorly on wear and tear. It's also obvious that a bit of water dripping from the gutter onto the finish, is not a good thing either. I'm in a very mild climate in San Francisco Bay Area, my rating in a word: disappointed. I will try the Superdeck Exotic Wood Stain and see how it goes. Advice: resign yourself to doing this annually for your IPE, if you want the look you know you want, regardless of product and their claims!
Ron, your wood type IPE requires annual maintenance or even sooner as you stated. Ac does not claim longer life for your IPE, but we have found it to last longer on IPE than most other brands. Some like Penofin will only last a few months for IPE wood. I would give the Super Deck Exotic wood stain 3-6 months before needing another recoat.
FYI, if you had a soft wood like Cedar, PT Pine, or Redwood, you would get 2-3 times the life and much less wear.
can I use ac over cabots? its been 4 years when I applied cabots semi solid oil stain
No. You should remove the Cabot before changing to any brand of deck stain.
We have just sanded our deck. What would be the next step before applying the stain?
Lightly clean and brighten the wood after sanding.
I'm about to use a floor sander on our Ipe Deck. Why would I still need to clean and use a brightener if I'm down to clean bare wood? The five year old deck has never been treated with anything and I used counter sunk stainless steel screws with plugs so the sander should do a great job. All the boards are still as straight as the day they were put down, but a few boards have cupped some and the floor sander is my only option for evenly flattening the boards.
Thanks
Cleaner and brightener helps to remove sand dust and to make the wood more porous for the stain. IPE is already dense and sanding can make it even less absorbent for the wood stain.
What is the best stain for a Yellawood deck in South Carolina?
Love your site!!!!!!! We have a 960sf deck new ( 2 years old ) and 1000' of dock and pier (10 years old) in the Charlotte, NC area. Both are pressure treated pine. Used Sikkens cedar on our dock and pier at our old house. Looked beautiful the first year, but was a bit too orange for me and didn't look nearly as good the following year. For this new project I am looking for a stain that is brown (not too dark) but don't want orange. Looks like AC rustic brown might be a good choice. What are your recommendation for PT pine semi-transparent stain that has a nice brown tone without being orange?
Here is a link to pictures of the deck, dock, and pier: https://www.behance.net/gallery/30791815/Mooresvi…
Ac Rustic Brown is one of our favorite brown deck colors. Not orange or red. I would suggest this. Make sure you prep is done correctly. Remove the Sikkens off the dock and pier and clean and brighten the newer deck. Make sure to tarp that concrete below the deck when staining! If you do the T&G ceiling, stain that first and watch for drips while it dries. We do paver sealing in our business and a nice wet look sealer would really make you backyard look great after the deck is done.
I have a 4 yr old mahogany deck in full sun in DC. First stained it with Sikkens Cetol Dek Finish (2 coat system). Looked good after one year, but started to dis-color badly after two years … so I sanded the deck back to bare wood and tried a coat of Penofin Hardwood stain. Bad idea! After four months the deck's color had darkened significantly and after one year it was nearly black. Recently sanded the deck back to bare wood again, so my choice now is to try yet another stain (maybe the TWP stain you recommend) or simply do nothing and let the wood go through its natural greying process. Any thoughts?
Try Armstrong Clark in Mahogany color. You wood type will need an annual cleaning and reapplication. No need to sand.
Great info!
Put a small PT pine deck last fall. Partial shade area in western NY.
Looking at the Armstrong ( color) just need a second opinion.
The AC would work for this. Make sure that you clean and brighten the wood for the prep.
I have a 25 year old deck. It is actually in pretty good shape. I am power washing and scrubbing it now. I am shocked at how good it looks. My question is; due to the wood being very dry, will I need to use a lot more stain because it is going to suck it up? I do intend to use 2 coats. I am unclear if this is a stain and waterproofing product also? I am going to use a semi-transparent. Deck is in full afternoon sun, faces west. There is a lot of mold that I am scrubbing off, if that matters.
Yes it will be more absorbent since it is older wood. Apply the two coats \”wet on wet\”. First coats goes down and the second coat should be applied within 20-60 minutes of the first coat. The AC is a stain and does help seal the wood.
I applied the Armstrong Clark Stain (Transparent Natural) to a new cedar fence in June 2014 and two years later I am underwhelmed by the appearance of the sections that are exposed to the sun.
Do you have any suggestions as to whether this is typical for this stain and timeframe? Can I restore the exposed sections without completely stripping and starting from scratch?
Thanks
Yes this is normal for the Natural tint and the exposure. You have to take inconsideration that you choose the lightest tint in the AC. This means it has the least amount of UV protection and will fade quicker then say a semi-transparent color. You do not have to strip for prep. Just clean and reapply the same color or a color with more pigment for additional protection.
Thanks, do I need to both clean and brighten ie the Restore-a-deck kit?
I'm also wondering how Cedar Transparent or Cedar Semi-Transparent would look next to the Transparent Natural panels that don't need cleaning.
Richer and darker. You really should clean and reapply a coat to all the wood. Semi-trans will last longer then any of the transparent colors.
I used the AC semi-transparent cedar last year on my new cedar and found the color too orange…. Im not the expert but if you liked the color of the transparent stain you may want to clean and apply a coat every year vs. a colr you may not like as much and apply every other year …..Im stuck here and not sure what to do….
Albert, semi-transparent cedar colors will almost always be orangish in color, does not matter the brand. It is the nature of the pigment that is used.
Yes that would be best.
Very happy with the product. I wish it was easier to source in NJ. The popular opinion here is that Cabot is the best and Wolman is most prevalent I'm glad I "convinced" my contractor to special order the Armstrong Clark. It has held up very well..
Hi everyone, so I used this stain last year on my deck and found the color too Orange. I used the semi-transparent cedar on my cedar deck. Once I clean the deck this year, can I apply the transparent natural over this semi from last year ? Any other ideas ?
Not with a cleaning only. Is you strip and brighten you can.
I was told by someone to use the same stain but when I clean not to use the brighter since it may participate in maxing the color look more orange (I used the restore-a-deck cleaner + brighter). I was told this time to use a mixture of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water with a squirt of dish soap to clean and no brighter…..and then stain with the same product …and after this would be less orange…..thoughts ?
The brightener does not make stains orange but it does lighten the wood. Not sure if this process will work. I would prep normally and mix colors. Adding some Rustic Brown into the Cedar color will tone down any orange pigment.
Thanks, and what is the reason I cannot put a transparent clear on the previous cedar color semi stain? Not sure I follow why this can't be done.
The AC does not come in a clear. Adding a transparent over a semi-trans will not lighten the color. The semi-trans will always be the dominant color.
Ok for it. I did not want to remove the existing orange tone but simply avoid maxing it more orange….this is why i figured the natural transparent over existing
OK, so we decided to re-use the Restore-Deck product to clean and brighten but this time apply the clear transparent over the cedar semi from last year. I just want to make sure that I do not need to do anything else before I apply the stain…..again I understand the old color will not leave (and Im ok with that). Can you confirm no technical issues with clear transparent on my previous semi-transparent cedar ?
Not that I know of but might want to ask them directly.
I just called AC for some samples and didn't want orange either. They suggested we try their new Semi Amber color instead of the Semi Cedar color. Good luck!
Hi Albert:
We used a 50/50 blend of cedar and red tone on SYP and are thrilled with the color.
Great ! Was the previous wood already stained ? Did you prep it with the Restore-a-deck product ?
Hi
I have a 120 sf 1 ft high PTP (yellow pine) deck, one year old. Sealed last year with canola oil and vinegar. Looked good until we got heavy rains and then the vinegar washed out and the deck got black mold.
Last week, I washed with laundry Oxyclean and TSP and then followed with Bar-Keeper's (oxalic acid). The black is all gone except for the ends, which I will redo, but the deck is a kind of bleached out light grey, rather than natural wood color.
Is that wrong? Can I stain now ? Some are suggesting pressure washing but not sure.
I am leaning toward Armstrong Clark ST in sierra brown, which has reddish tints that would match the terra cotta paver patio and go with a pumpkin colored house wall.
Need paraffinated oil b/c of the heavy rains in this area, high uv protection (solids) and good penetration.
Deck gets sun year round and is very hot all day in summer.
No protection but may put a cloth awning up later.
Do not want to pressure wash and don't want to use caustic soda or corrosive acids close to my patio pavers.
When washing did you remove all of the oxidized wood cells with heavy scrubbing or pressure washing? The cleaner and brightener will not harm the pavers. I would suggest pressure washing after applying the cleaner, rinse then apply the brightener.
We replaced our deck this summer in kiln-dried cedar, and had that finished with an oil-based transparent cedar-tone sealer. The deck is raised about 5' off the ground, and to save money we kept the old vertical wood skirting (pine with a semi-solid stain which is approximately 70% off after stripping and washing.) I know the two woods will never match exactly, but I'd like to find one oil-based product for future applications that will work on both surfaces – semi-transparent on the new cedar and semi-solid on the old skirting. (FYI- I don't love the color of the sealed cedar. It looks too "orange." When we refinish it next year, I'd like to use something in a reddish-brown tone for both surfaces.) But it doesn't appear that Armstrong has matching reddish-brown colors in both semi-transparent and semi-solid. What would you recommend?
Semi-solids will not match the semi-transparent in the AC or any other stain that we have seen. It might be somewhat close but definitely will not match. You will need to remove all of the current stain off the verticals. 70% is not enough. Shoot for 95% or more.
Hello, thanks for this website. I live in Seattle and have chosen the very cheap option of resurfacing a deck with hem-fir mix. If cost is not an option for the stain what specific product would you recommend. Thank you so much!
The AC will work but see this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
If I use AC Semi-Cedar on the flooring and it does not give enough coverage can you prep and clean in the spring and use a darker AC color on it? Also, probably a silly question but if I order a 5 gallon pail I know I can't lift it too easily. Is it poured out easily into smaller container to handle? How do you get a 5 gallon pail completely stirred and mixed well enough?
You can pour into smaller containers but it may splash some. Mix first with a 5 gallon pain drill mixer that goes on to a drill. Simple and they only cost about $5
Wow! What an awesome website. I was wondering if you could give me a recommendation. We have 1100 square feet of deck on our house. Our front deck is cedar, but our back deck is something else (not sure what, exactly). Our back deck looks terrible. When we bought the house, we stained it with ready seal and that worked great on our front deck, bUT not the back deck. Back deck is weathered and receives a lot of sun exposure in the summer and is open to the elements in the winter. Its cracked and ugly. We live in Washington. Would this stain be a good option for our back deck? How about the front cedar deck? Thank you!
Yes on both front and back but since you have so much sun, you should consider the semi-solid colors for more UV protection.
I just cleaned, power washed my 25 yr old deck. It has not had anything done to it for 10 years or more. After a lot of cleaning I was ready for the stain. I decided on Armstrong Clark. It went on very easy but the coverage on my PT deck was way less than what they said. I needed 3 gallons for the 340 sf deck. I used the rustic brown. The color is much darker than I thought it would be. Next year when it needs to be redone can I use a lighter color Armstrong stain over it?
You can use a lighter color but it will not lighten the Rustic Brown. More then likely your wood wood is extremely porous. this resulted in the coverage being less and the color being darker as you had more stain dive into the wood per sq. foot then normal.
First off, what a great website this is. After endless research of retailer reviews, I discovered the unbiased ratings and reviews here. And then I wrote and received advice specific to my situation—"What would be the best stain for my deck in Toronto?" I'd previously used a solid stain (ie paint) that had peeled terribly, and was told it would need to be completely sanded off (sigh). It was a pretty big job, bigger than the crappy rental equipment available at my local big box building supplies store. So I bought a nifty new belt sander and got to work. That was the hard part. When I applied the Armstrong Clark semi-solid deck stain last summer, it was so easy to apply. And, despite a fearsome ice storm and one of the coldest, snowiest winters on record, the deck survived without a scratch. Zero peeling. No wear marks at all. Great advice. Great product. THANK YOU!
Hi David,
As we are in roughly the same area in SW Ontario I thought to inquire about the colour you used and the type of wood? i.e Pressure Treated vs Cedar etc.
We have a 5 year old cedar deck that needs a new coat of stain. We used Cabot Burnt Hickory Semi Transparent last year and just do not love the color. It's ok, but it's just too dull. Can we clean it good and use this stain over it? I know it won't completely cover it, but I'm wondering if it will brighten it a little? Also, is it necessary to strip it first?
You will have to strip and brighten.
What would happen if we just stained it again with Cabot stain, but use a color with some reddish tint to it? I really don't want to have to strip it. We don't hate the color that much.
Should be fine as long as you prep correctly.
We have a 15 year old 20 x 20 Brazilian Redwood deck with privacy fence along 20', pergola over 10 x 10 area, and spindles and bannisters around two other sides. The first several years we used Cabot Australian Oil Stain – Honey Teak – and loved the color. A few years went by without maintenance, hired someone to restore the deck, and they used Sikkens Cetol SRD Translucent Wood Finish – 085 Teak Teca. Last few years we have not had maintenance done, and decided to restore again. We power washed and most stain peeled right off, but some remains. We saw that Armstrong stain has high ratings and wondered what your recommendation is for both stain types and color that would bring out the best of this beautiful wood. It seems there is no getting around annually staining.
Continue the prep by using a stain stripper and pressure washing to remove all of the old stain. Brighten the wood when done. Maybe Armstrong Clark in the Amber color is what you are looking for.
We have a house with a very large, 25 year old deck of pressure treated lumber. In the ten years that we've owned the deck, I've never managed to get the entire thing treated. This summer, I am determined to finish the entire thing and to do it right. I have power washed and scrubbed with oxy clean and wood brightener. Some spots still have some old stain, so I'm going to apply stripper. Then I was going to sand. What grit sandpaper should I use? Then, after sanding, do I need to brighten again?i had read that sanding opened the wood pores, but after reading at your site, I'm thinking differently.
Why do you want to sand? No need if you removed all of the old stain. Sanding reduces stain penetration.
Just reading through the comments and came across this one …. I too have never managed to get the whole thing done at one time! LOL! And yes, this is the summer of the deck here too!
Just stripped a 5 yr old pine deck. A solid stain was previously done, but after stripping and sanding, the wood looks almost new. I want to go with a transparent that shows as much of the wood grain as possible. I've considered TimberOil and do not mind the regular maintenance. However, is there a reason timber oils should not be applied to older decks?
If we use a transparent oil stain from AC, I'm wanting to be able to only lightly clean and reapply a coat every year or so VS having to strip again.
Any advice would be so helpful. Thank you.
You can use Timber Oil on new and old wood. Both the AC and the Timber Oil can be cleaned and reapplied without the need for stripping or sanding.
and no comment about Graying? I guess if you use a rustic brown you cant really see the color of your wood anymore. ….and it gets an 8.25?
Rustic Brown does not mask the wood grain but highlights it with a brownish red color. We do rate for graying above.
Wondering what to use here in Maine on a small permanent dock in the lake (spillage of prep products is an issue). Armstrong Clark seems a good choice since they recommend just soap and water for prep. This is new spruce decking. Thank you.
AC is not a soap and water cleanup as it is oil based. Look at Defy products. They have a Defy Marine Stain version for docks.
Need some guidance here! I am in Northeast Ohio and just power washed 25 year old PT large deck. Past stain has always been oil based solid. Stripping that all off and replacing some boards. The boards have 4 nails in each from back then so the question is .. will a semi solid cover the nails up enough and look decent or should I stick with a solid? After reading I was considering the Armstrong Clark for easy reapplication each time. Does AC have a solid or would the semi solid cover enough of the unsightly nails ?? Thank you.
They do not make a solid and not sure if it will cover. Might want to test first.
I used AC on my ipe deck that grated in the 4 yrs since installation. It went on pretty easily and looked great but took several days to dry. The portion of the deck that's fully exposed shows quite a bit of color loss but the covered part still looks good. It's also giving off splinters in both section somewhat.
CN I restrain just the faded part and will it blend in more ore less.
What will help the splintering? I really did not expect this with ipe.
You cannot spot treat and have it blend if all the same level. If you have different levels or an exact dividing board, you may be able to do it but it will be off some. Never heard or seen IPE splinter. It is the most dense wood out there.
I have posted 2 negative comments about our experience with Armstrong-Clark products-I can't find either one so I would be cautious about believing what is allowed to be posted. I spent almost $500.00 on this product and I will have to start all over again with a thousand sq. ft. of decking arrrrgh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We have posted your review from last year. It is against our policy to post more then one review from one customer on one product. Only one is allowed. We explained this to you last year as well. Your review from last year is still online and always has been. Thanks for sharing your experience last year and sorry you had an issue.
I have PT deck that is about 8 years old and was stained with Caboy oil base stain that's looking pretty bad the wood is pretty ruff and I'm thinking of using A/C to restrain with a similar solid I have read that it might take two coats how do you do this when it says that some oils penetrate and some dry how does this work also I saw a few reviews say that it left a oily reidue
What would be the best route to go just want to do this once and whatever is wet on wet application thanks for any advice I've read so many reviews I'm confused at best
Thanks
FYI, the AC does not come in a solid stain and you cannot apply it over the Cabot. If you want a solid color stain then stay with Cabot or look at Flood.
I have cedar board and batten way up high on the gable ends so I really don't want to have to re-do anything. Used cabot oil transparent 9 years ago. Pressure washed it and it looks better. Can I put a semi transparent AC over it since it's basically gone or should I just go solid and if so which product. I wish I had found this earlier.
If basically gone then you shoudl be okay to use the AC.
I have used many different deck stains at my father's house throughout my years and never been fully satisfied with the final result of the stain on the deck. I finally stumbled upon Armstrong Clark stains and I will never use another stain again. Thanks a lot to the people at Armstrong Clark Company for providing me with a stain I can rely on every time.
did you try TWP and if so, why did you like Armstrong better ?
I second Daniel's high remarks on the Armstrong Clark stain. I haven't used any of the others on this list but decided to go with Armstrong Clark was rated very high for ease of application which I feel is important since some stains may rate high but be a real pain to apply correctly. I used the semi-transparent cedar stain and it looked awesome when I was done, easy to apply with stain drying nicely in adequate time without any stickiness.