Armstrong Clark Deck Stain Review
Important Note: This is our 3rd Review of Armstrong Clark Stain.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain is a highly regarded oil based stain formulated with 5 generations of stain industry experience. Armstrong Clark is available in several formulas: Transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid colors.
Armstrong Clark Deck Stains are uniquely blended with drying and non-drying oils that isolate from each other during application. The non-drying oils penetrate the wood fibers and help rejuvenate and condition lost natural oils while the drying oils cure on the surface to lock in the conditioning oils and form a barrier of weather protection at the surface.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
Armstrong Clark Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 9
– The initial appearance of Armstrong Clark was a rich deep finish with naturally enhanced wood grain showing through the semi-solid formula. Our choice of the Cedar Semi-Transparent color had a rich cedar tone.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– Upon our 2-year inspection, Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain produced above average UV resistance. Being a semi-transparent Cedar color we projected better than average UV shielding and it did not disappoint. It would seem to us that the transparent colors would deliver slightly less UV shielding due to less pigment in the formula, while the semi-solid colors of the AC would have slightly better UV protection when in full sun.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
– No peeling was detected at the 2-year point. There was slight wearing on the high traffic areas, around the furniture, and on the stairs.
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– Armstrong Clark Deck Stain can be purchased for $38.99-$45.99 depending on the opacity of the formula. In our test experience, Armstrong Clark had one of the best spread rates of any stain. We used a total of 3.5 gallons on our 600 square foot deck applied in one coat.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 8
– At 2 years we noticed some slight mold growth on top of the Armstrong Clark stain in some shaded areas. We did not detect any mildew spores within the stain as the mildew spores could be wiped away using a wet towel.
Ease of Application: 9
– The Armstrong Clark Deck Stain was super easy to apply and extremely user-friendly. Upon the manufacturer’s claims of being able to apply in direct sunlight, we tested our application on a 90-degree day in full sun. We were surprised the stain did not dry too quickly and applied evenly in those conditions. There were no excess dripping issues on the railings even though we applied using a pump sprayer and back wiped with a stain brush. The semi-transparent stain applied well using this method.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8.5
– Our 2-year test of Armstrong Clark Stain in Semi-Trans Cedar color did show signs of slight darkening from its original color. We figured this was likely due to a higher solid content of the formula. The AC is over 70% solids, containing both linseed and paraffin oils.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
– Because Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain penetrates well and did not overly darken it would be easy to recoat. A simple cleaning with a wood deck cleaner to remove dirt, grime, and mold spores would be plenty sufficient prior to reapplying.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.5
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain held up well at our 2-year test mark. Easy to apply and terrific coverage rates, raise Armstrong Clark to a high level. No peeling and only a slight darkening color shift were more than acceptable. Easy to maintain and prep prior to recoating. Armstrong Clark is definitely one of our top choices for a professional durable finish that lasts and is easy to work with in the future.
Product Information:
More Info: Armstrong Clark Stains
Cost: $38.99 per Gallon, $209.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia, Semi-Transparent Chestnut, Semi-Trans Natural Oak, Semi-Trans Black Walnut for Hardwoods
Application Temperature: 50-110 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 8-72 Hours, Depending on UV exposure and air temps
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: Under 50 VOCs. Compliant in All 50 States and Los Angeles Counties
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Semi-Transparent Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take inconsideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
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93 Comments on "Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain Review 2017"
I really want to stain our new deck gray, but I’m having trouble finding a good quality stain with a gray color that actually looks gray (most seem to have a brown tint). I live in Michigan. I’ve already prepped the deck, so I’m raring to go, but finding a good quality stain is slowing me down. Any suggestions?
AC has a Driftwood Gray color. Make sure to let your new wood weather and prep.
Really good stain! I applied AC rustic brown to a new kdat deck 1 year ago, it looks like a piece of furniture. It’s time to reapply and the only thing i notice after a year is, it looks a little “dryer” or lighter than before.
Will this stain come off on feet and cushions?
Had bad experience with other products in the past. Was told that all stains legal in California have this problem!?
Full curing stains are 100% drying so they do not rub off. The AC is a full curing stain and a penetrating stain. The issue can be if you do not prep correctly or over apply. Has nothing to do with CA VOC laws.
I live in Toronto Canada, and have just had a new tongue and groove porch ceiling installed. It is white cedar. I would like to protect it while keeping it as close as possible to its natural color. It doesn’t get a lot of direct sunlight and is mostly protected from rain. Is this product appropriate for this application? And do I need to let it age first and / or pre-treat with something? It is already starting to darken and grey in streaks, and I was hoping to treat it before it gets too dark. Also in 3 months it will December and too cold. Thank you.
Yes, you need to weather and prep. About 3 months. Use their Natural color.
Thank you. Since it will be December in 3 months (and v. cold) will it be a problem to wait until spring/summer? And by prep, do you mean the ‘restore a deck’ kit?
It will be fine to wait until Spring of 2018. You can use the RAD Kits for the prep. We have used the AC Natural for cedar t&g before for one of our restoration jobs.
I live in the Denver, Co. area and just put in a red cedar deck. I want to maintain the color and grain of the wood but I’m confused by the number and type of products to choose from Cabot, Olympic, Valspar, etc…. what’s the best product to use?
Use the Armstrong Clark. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I put a coat of AC semi-transparent cedar stain on a new cedar deck last year. I thought it looked great but my wife wanted to tone down the color, which she felt didn’t go well with our light-brown log home. This year we decided to apply a coat of natural finish instead of a second coat of semi-transparent cedar. Now our deck is rapidly turning black. We live in New England, the deck is in full sunlight until mid-afternoon and fully exposed to the elements. We had zero problems with the first coat…what to do now?
Did you strip and brighten the wood for the prep? You cannot apply a lighter color over a darker color.
The first coat, though slightly faded looked good after a year, so I did not strip it off prior to putting the natural coat over it. I am assuming that I will need to strip the entire porch, both horizontal and vertical members, and essentially start over. What products are best suited for this, and what exactly is the best process?
Strip and brighten to fix is the correct way. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper Kits.
I have two decks: one made of ipe and the other redwood. I stripped, pressure washed and sanded the old Sikkens finish off both decks and applied Armstrong Clark wood stain in mahogany and the finish is terrific. It dried almost immediately on the redwood but took about a week to dry on the ipe.
I have mahogany railings and balusters on both decks that I sanded down to bare wood and then applied Armstrong Clark wood stain also in mahogany. After a week it still leaves a residue on your hands – it apparently takes a long time to thoroughly dry but the color is excellent.
I would like to apply 4-5 coats of an exterior urethane to the railings and balusters over the mahogany stain with a product such as Minwax spar urethane in a clear satin finish. Will this hold up over time? Pros and cons of doing this? Do you have another recommendation?
You cannot apply a poly over a deck stain and you should never apply a poly to exterior wood decking. It will blister and peel. Don’t do it and save yourself a lot of hassle of trying to fix it: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/apply-polyurethane-to-a-deck/
I did not intend to put a poly over my wood decking.
Is there any topcoat I could apply over the railings to give it a finish more in line with what you see on wood railings on sail boats or other water craft?
No. It will peel and blister with a top coat.
Can you use a pump sprayer to apply an AC stain or is that just bad? What is the downside?
It is too thick for a pump sprayer.
Hello, I have settled on Armstrong stain, but am still prepping my deck. I have pressure washed, and removed dirt/grime, etc. still have some areas of old stain. I believe this is Cabot spf, and can,t find if it is solid, semi solid, or semi transparent – trying to determine if I need a stripper to finish prepping, or if sanding is the only other thing to remove rest of the stain.
Representative photos attached. Thanks!
Try a stain stripper first. If that does not remove it, sand the rest off. Make sure to brighten the wood when done.
We are refinishing a modern cabin sized home with log ‘siding’ (pine?–not full logs) This is in Western Oregon where there are many months of rain. There are rain gutters, etc, but no overhang for protection. The original finish mildewed badly under the coating, so we went through a removal process of deck cleaner,with lots and lots of scrubbing and rinsing, and deck brightner and rinsing, which brought it back to a white wood that water will penetrate. As a precaution, because mildew under these semi transparent finishes is such a problem, we decided to also bleach it (40% bleach) and rinsed it well after it set a few minutes.
It appears that we have awesome bare wood now, but some say the bleach does not kill all the spores in the wood and it’s been suggested that we we spray it with undiluted white vinegar and just let that dry without rinsing it off. For one thing, the vinegar is supposed to create a PH that inhibits mildew. What kind of feedback can you give me regarding that vinegar step. Will it affect the bonding in any way if we go with a penetrating oil stain? Should we rinse the vinegar out ?
What would be the most highly recommended brands of stain ? A contractor said he has had terrible luck with mold growing back under new coatings of water borne stain and highly recommends going with a penetrating oil ( despite the fact that mildew is known to feed on oils like linseed oil ). Would anyone recommend Olympic Elite Woodland Oil, or Armstrong Semi-transparent Wood Stain, or Sun Frog Deck Sealer, or a Cabot product like Australian Timber Oil ? Do any of them last longer or have a truly simple recoat process (Armstrong claims a simple and easy recoat). Or should we give up the wood look and go for a solid color stain (water or oil) so we’re not faced with another tough recoat process in 2-5 years, especially if we wait a little too long and it starts discoloring. Your feedback would be greatly appreciated since there are so many conflicting opinions and suggestions out there. Thanks
Vinegar does change the pH level but will have zero effect on preventing mold/mildew in the future. Not sure if it will harm the stain’s performance or not. Doubt it will.
Go with the Armstrong Clark stain in a semi-solid color.
Hi, I have a 23 year old deck of treated pine. We have only ever used Thompson clear sealer on it. No stain ever. We just cleaned it this week with with bleach and detergent combo…it cleaned up really well. Rinsed off well with water and have let it dry for a few days. Then we repIaced one board….What should I do to that board…it beads up when with water is poured on…should I clean it too and/or sand before a applying the Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain???
Try sanding it.
Hello, I bought some non-treated pine boards and would like to stain them with semi-transparent black walnut. I was going to give them a lite sanding and then use Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner… Is this a good idea???
No. Do not use the Minwax.
What would you recommend ?
Thx
No need for a pre stain conditioner. Just go ahead with the AC after three months of weathering and prepping with a deck cleaner and a wood brightener.
Just wanted to confirm. I have a redwood deck being built now. You recommend waiting 4 months before staining it?? Also, is there a preferred temperature range for application? I’m in the Salt Lake City area and it doesn’t rain often but it’s quite warm right. now- high 90’s. Of course, in 4 months, it will be November. Snow will be a bigger concern than high temps. I’m assuming that it’s better to stain it before winter sets in. So perhaps, staining around the 2 month mark at the end of September??
AC wants about 3 months to age and prepped before staining. Just 1 coat. I would not do in Sept. You can wait until Spring. One Winter will not harm it.
Is it ok to use airless sprayer when applying Armstrong Clark semi transparent cedar stain on cedar fence?
Yes
I did test samples with Armstrong. We initially liked the new black walnut, but after a week, the stain has penetrated so deep into the wood, it is very light now. So my question is, how do we get that dark stain back as I assume if we put it on our whole deck, it will do the same. The test wood was a piece from our deck. we stripped the deck, sanded and brighten. its pine. we didn’t know if applying one coat, then waiting till the following year to apply a maintenance coat will bring it back to dark or not. we really do not want to apply two coats at time of application as that seems to be the death of a stain and the problems start.
Over application is not good. The AC will need to saok deep into the grain. Applying two coats can be done as long as the first coat fully soaks in after about 30 minutes.
Cleaning lightly and reapplying a year later can be done as well.
My computer is turning the word the into thanks so please excuse the incorrect wording in my recent post.
I live in Michigan and have ab upper and lower deck total about 1250 sq feet. The decks are 26 years old and since thanks beginning I have tried to research the best product to use to protect the wood. Since I hire people to do thanks work I am happy to pay more to get a product that will last longer. The decks are exposed to snow and direct western sun in summer.
I have been using Armstrong Clark mountain cedar semi solid for the last 6 years and am really impressed by its longevity on my decks. I had to convince my deck company to try it and supplied it to them. They were very pleased working with it.
Also, thanks customer support calling directly to the manufacturer in CA is A+. Good answers to all my questions.
It may not be as easy to get as some of the more common brands but worth the effort for a superior product.
We have had a new cedar deck installed. It faces west and gets full sun from 1:00 to dark. We live in the humid hot Midwest high above the Mississippi River. Since our home is a gray lime stone, I would like the cedar to age gracefully to silver gray without any sealing or staining . But from the information on your site, I am wondering if that is wise given our geography (not a dry climate.) Any advice will be appreciated. And thank you for all the information on the various product choices.
If you want to age or oxidize naturally to gray, then you should use a clear sealer without any tint.
previusly used cabotwoodtone deck&siding stain 3yrs ago .powerwashed deck &used deck cleaner but still shows some slight color on afew boards.hoping to use armstrong&clarke stain. willthis be aproblem.will probably power wash one more time.
Use a deck stain stripper and then pressure wash off. After you are done, apply a wood brightener to all.
I need to retreat my deck and like what I read about Armstrong Clark. I’ve stripped and prepped my deck but wonder if I’ve done enough. I live in metro Atlanta and have a small, near ground level 12 year old pressure treated deck with no railings. I’ve been using Thompson’s every couple of years and finally realize what a lousy product it is. The first few applications were clear but 2 years ago put on a semi-transparent variety. I was going to use it again but decided to find a better product. I started by using Behr’s finish stripper and scrubbed every square inch. Then scrubbed again with Behr’s wood cleaner to neutralize the stripper chemical. The wood now looks great, completely color-free and bright looking, seems to be in good shape. Is that enough prep for something like the Armstrong semi-solid or semi-transparent? Is oil based or water based a better choice? Thanks!
Should be as long as your removed the old stain and you cannot visibly see it anymore. AC is a great choice and comes only in oil based formulas.
Northern New York, larch siding (cove) I want the grain to jump out as it is rich and well contrasted and want high protection against graying — whats your recommendation?
The Armstrong Clark would work well for this.
Hello, I’m interested in staining my deck with Armstrong Clark Oxford Brown semi-solid. Their website says it is “not for sitting surfaces or furniture. Does this mean I should not apply to a deck (that has furniture on it), or are they saying it cannot be applied to to something like a wood bench? I’m also curious as to how the semi-solid stain would hold up to moving deck furniture/grill and dog paws? Thanks
Not for wood furniture is what they mean. It is used all the time for decking.
I live in Florida and used this stain on my deck…it is in directly sunlight the majority of the day. I applied this stain and it covered well and looked great when complete. However, every time I walk on the deck, my shoe soles are coated in pigment and it tracks everywhere.
This goes away in a few days as it fully cures.
I live in NY, Capital district area. My deck is sealed last 3-year with TWP-100 semi transparent, it faces the sun since morning until 2pm. Now it fade around and has splinters, some area still coated some area I can see wood.
I’m thinking about 2 choices:
1 Go with AC semi -solid this year, Would it last longer than semi-transparent than TWP? Do I have to strip it and brighten it?
2 Go with TWP-100 again, do I just clean and brighten it?
Your answer would be appreciated.
1. Semi-solids have slightly better UV protection from fading. Strip and brighten for the prep.
2. If staying the same, just clean and brighten but the 100 Series is not allowed in NY. You have to use the 1500 there based on VOC laws.
Per choice 1. Instead of stripping it, can I sand then brighten it?
Stripping is much easier than sanding and the TWP is an easy product to strip. If you sand, use 60-80 grit and you should lighly clean and brighten after to open the pores and remove any sand dust.
Will sanding 1 year old red cedar eliminate need for clearners etc.?
Not usually but depends on how much oxidation occurred.
Should i expect similar results with red cedar decking
Yes. We use it in WRC all the time.
Have an IPE deck approx 15 yrs old that had a semi solid stain . Used Restore A Deck cleaner and brightiner that worked fine , but I did not like the wear on the deck. So I sanded deck down to bare wood ,which looks great, and would like to use A C mahogany semi transparent stain. Should I go thru the cleaner / brightiner process again , or just apply stain on sanded IPE deck ?
Thanks for your help
Lightly clean and brighten after the sanding will help to open the wood grain for the stain.
Regarding you sq. ft., do these figures include railing, balusters, posts etc.? I have a 400 sq. ft. deck (10 x 40), but I have railing on 3 sides with vertical and horizontal rails, and balusters about 3.5″ apart. Is there a ballapark formula that you use to factor these in? I suppose I could just do the math, but you know – math is hard.
The reason I ask, I like the sound of the TWP, but wonder if a 5 gallon pail will cut it. I like the coverage of Armstrong , so if i could get it done for one pail at 210$, it might be worth it.
Thanks
Hello,
Everyting has to be measured. Typically for railings you do the length x the height.
I’ve put down the AC transparent cedar the last two summers on a 3 year old deck. I really like the colour but the deck gets almost full day sun so it only really lasts about a season. If I get the semi-trans cedar tone do I need to apply a stripper/cleaner again & brightener to the wood, or am I able to give it a cleaning & re-apply?
Good cleaning and reapply should be okay for the prep.
I ordered fifteen 1-gallon cans of Armstrong Clark. I haven’t tried the product yet, but seven of the cans were badly dented. I took pictures of the dented cans and the undamaged boxes they came in and sent them to the e-retailer who is blaming it on the shipper, Purolator. The cans were all tightly packed and the difference in the height of the inner boxes (they were double-boxed) and the cans themselves is 1/4″. The height of the dents range between 1″ and 1 1/2″ on the cans. Some of the dents were towards the outside of the box. I am not aware of any local business that sells this product, so I won’t be purchasing it again. If you like the product and can find it in stores, than I think that would be the way to go. But I would be cautious about ordering it online.
Hi Judy, small dents in a can will not harm the stain in any way. We get dented cans all the time and we use the stain and then throw the cans away when done. It is like a gallon of milk. No need to return a gallon that is dented as you use and toss away the milk carton when done.
I live in northern ontario how well will this stand up
It does depend on the UV exposure and the color you choose. On average, about two years for a deck.
Can Armstrong semi solid stain be applied on a previous solid stained deck that is peeling some what ?
Thank you for your time
Vic
No, that cannot be done. The only thing that can go over a solid stain is another solid stain or solid coating.
Since this is not recommended, then what solid stain out there would you recommend??? I’ve been looking EVERYWHERE, and I cannot find a good recommendation for a solid stain. Thanks!
We use Flood Solid stains and have pretty good results.
Is there an Armstrong-Clarke dealer in Southern Maryland or nearby?
Not sure. Check with the manufacturer for help.
We have a 1000 sq ft mahogany deck that was coated with Arborcoat over 2 years ago. The deck is over 15 years old and has had different stains over the years. I just want to pressure wash with a cleaner to remove the dirt and mold. I really don’t want to get it down to bare wood. What stain/sealant would you recommend for this deck that can cover over the old stain?
Ken, nothing can be applied over the BM Arborcoat. It has to be removed.
I was actually mistaken, it was Messmers that we used last time. Would we still need to remove it to put a new coat of something else on it? Could we use Messmers again without removing the old coat?
Ken, this is much easier to prep. Use a Restore A Deck Kit for the prep while pressure washing and then the AC stain. The kit should remove the Messmers rather easily.
Thanks for the tip. Are you referring to this product, https://www.restore-a-deck.com or something else?
Yes, that will prep it.
So I live in PA. My top deck is exposed year round to the elements, including extremely wicked summer sun and heat. It’s approximately 1 yr old and has never been sealed. I’m not sure if 1 year is accurate bc we bought the house in august 2016. It’s in great shape but needs to be addressed. It’s 5/4×6 pt and the rails and so on. I’m looking for the best, easiest clean up and most effective sealer. Not looking to change the weathered wood/graying much if possible. Suggestions would be great
You do have to prep. Use a deck cleaner and a wood brightener. This will remove the gray, but if you use a clear sealer (no tint) it will naturally gray again. Try Defy Extreme Clear.
We live in Northern CA and have a 2 year old 1435 sq foot redwood deck. Six months after the construction workers stained the new deck with Benjamin Moore stain, we had terrible peeling in the sunny parts of the deck. We sanded it down and reapplied the same stain. Four months later we had the same problem, peeling in the sunny areas. We just finished stripping, sanding and brightening the deck. What do you recommend we use to stain the deck?
The Armstrong Clark would work well for this.
were can you buy it in Canada Toronto Hamilton Burlington area ont.
Check with Armstrong Clark. Most likely you will need to order it.
So which stain would you recommend for a brand new Cedar fence. Armstrong and TWP you state are not to be used until 4 months of drying out. We live in central Texas so I do not think it takes that long for the wood to be ready for staining? Please advise and thank you for this fabulous site and info.
Wayne
Is the wood on the fence rough sawn cut? If so, you can stain now. If smooth wood, you will need to wait and prep. The AC would work well for a fence in TX.
Deck Location State: Minnesota
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Part Shade
Wood Type: cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes
Reason for Previous Stain Failure: Peeled and faded
Previous Stain Brand and Type of stain (Solid, Semi-transparent, Transparent, etc): Flood CWF-UV penetrating wood finish
Strip and brighten to remove the Flood. Stain with the Armstrong Clark after removal.
Can this be used on composite decks?
Probably not but best to ask manufacturer.