Update 2018 for Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Reviews
Here at DeckStainHelp.com we take pride in the fact that we have become the Internet’s number one reference for all things exterior wood and deck restoration related. Our customers who have used Armstrong Clark wood deck stain continue to be satisfied by the appearance and longevity of their deck stain projects. If you have used Armstrong Clark wood deck stain, we appreciate your input, so feel free to leave a comment below and pictures of your completed projects if you have them.
Armstrong Clark Deck Stain Review
Important Note: This is our 3rd Review of Armstrong Clark Stain.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain is a highly regarded oil based stain formulated with 5 generations of stain industry experience. Armstrong Clark is available in several formulas: Transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid colors.
Armstrong Clark Deck Stains are uniquely blended with drying and non-drying oils that isolate from each other during application. The non-drying oils penetrate the wood fibers and help rejuvenate and condition lost natural oils while the drying oils cure on the surface to lock in the conditioning oils and form a barrier of weather protection at the surface.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
Armstrong Clark Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 9
– The initial appearance of Armstrong Clark was a rich deep finish with naturally enhanced wood grain showing through the semi-solid formula. Our choice of the Cedar Semi-Transparent color had a rich cedar tone.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– Upon our 2-year inspection, Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain produced above average UV resistance. Being a semi-transparent Cedar color we projected better than average UV shielding and it did not disappoint. It would seem to us that the transparent colors would deliver slightly less UV shielding due to less pigment in the formula, while the semi-solid colors of the AC would have slightly better UV protection when in full sun.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
– No peeling was detected at the 2-year point. There was slight wearing on the high traffic areas, around the furniture, and on the stairs.
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– Armstrong Clark Deck Stain can be purchased for $38.99-$45.99 depending on the opacity of the formula. In our test experience, Armstrong Clark had one of the best spread rates of any stain. We used a total of 3.5 gallons on our 600 square foot deck applied in one coat.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 8
– At 2 years we noticed some slight mold growth on top of the Armstrong Clark stain in some shaded areas. We did not detect any mildew spores within the stain as the mildew spores could be wiped away using a wet towel.
Ease of Application: 9
– The Armstrong Clark Deck Stain was super easy to apply and extremely user-friendly. Upon the manufacturer’s claims of being able to apply in direct sunlight, we tested our application on a 90-degree day in full sun. We were surprised the stain did not dry too quickly and applied evenly in those conditions. There were no excess dripping issues on the railings even though we applied using a pump sprayer and back wiped with a stain brush. The semi-transparent stain applied well using this method.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8.5
– Our 2-year test of Armstrong Clark Stain in Semi-Trans Cedar color did show signs of slight darkening from its original color. We figured this was likely due to a higher solid content of the formula. The AC is over 70% solids, containing both linseed and paraffin oils.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
– Because Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain penetrates well and did not overly darken it would be easy to recoat. A simple cleaning with a wood deck cleaner to remove dirt, grime, and mold spores would be plenty sufficient prior to reapplying.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.5
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain held up well at our 2-year test mark. Easy to apply and terrific coverage rates, raise Armstrong Clark to a high level. No peeling and only a slight darkening color shift were more than acceptable. Easy to maintain and prep prior to recoating. Armstrong Clark is definitely one of our top choices for a professional durable finish that lasts and is easy to work with in the future.
Product Information:
More Info: Armstrong Clark Stains
Cost: $38.99 per Gallon, $209.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia, Semi-Transparent Chestnut, Semi-Trans Natural Oak, Semi-Trans Black Walnut for Hardwoods
Application Temperature: 50-110 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 8-72 Hours, Depending on UV exposure and air temps
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: Under 50 VOCs. Compliant in All 50 States and Los Angeles Counties
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Semi-Transparent Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take inconsideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
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158 Comments on "Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain Review 2017"
Extremely impressed with this stain. After a backbreaking job of sanding and brightening the cupped pressure treated 7’x28’ front porch and four 5’ wide steps, I was praying the finished product would be worth it. I wasn’t disappointed. A complete transformation. Very easy to apply, and huge bonus not having to time application to avoid the sun. Used two coats applied only about 20 mins apart but dries enough in that time to not have worries about leaving shoe imprints on previously coated surfaces. Finish was rich and smooth. After almost a year signs of wear are minimal, and only on steps used to drag bicycles and scooters up and down in addition to very heavy foot traffic.
Will recoat steps this summer and that’s it. Highly recommend,
Do you have any pictures to post?
I’m out of town for a couple of weeks but can get take some pictures when I return and post them at that time. I never think to do a before and after. If you had seen the before, you’d be amazed by the after.
Afters would be great. Thanks!
I am installing a new redwood deck. I have sanded all the wood with 180 grit before installation. There appears to be a mix of wet and drier wood. Should I wait (how long) before stain application and prep? Is this a good choice for new redwood, or is there a better choice? I live in the San Francisco area.
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Sanding to 180 grit is not a good idea. It is too smooth and the stain will not soak in. This could create wearing or peeling.
AC will work well once you weather and prep correctly.
I used the Natural Tone stain on a cedar deck I had stripped and brightened. I chose the lighter tone because the deck looked good wet and that is how it looks now.
The application process is excellent. The deck is in a sun/shade location and it was nice to not have to worry about the sun.
The product went on, as stated, with no visible blending lines and no difference from sun or shade application.
This deck absorbed alot of stain. I used 3 gallons for just under 500 sq. ft.
I’ll leave a rating after the product sees some time. So far I am very satisfied.
Looks really good!
As Aline Q said, I’m also extremely impressed with this stain. It looks unbelievable on my two decks but performing the prep work was key to that. In my case I had my decks professionally done two years ago when they used Sherwin Williams oil stain and it came out fine but by the 2nd season here in Pa it was pretty much worn away. They pressure washed it but I’m not clear on whether or not they did any other prep work. The color was fine but it didn’t have the depth that the Armstrong-Clark product does. The finish had almost completely worn away and/or was UV faded and grayed after two years. I used SW’s Revive deck cleaner/brightener product, applying it on all the flat surfaces with a sprayer, waiting 20 mins and then hand scrubbing with a deck brush. Afterwards I power washed it but on many of the planks I had to go slow due to what looked like stubborn green mold in the wood. Eventually I learned how to power wash without leaving spray marks in the wood and without raising the wood grain. I also power washed the vertical spindles and posts. A few days passed before I was able start staining but I was blessed with sunny days which were either hot and humid in the 90’s or much less humid and in the 80’s. In either case I had no issue with application or drying. The tools I used included a Shurline pad and handle, a screen for the five gallon bucket and a Shurline Handi-Painter pad which worked great for staining the spindles and tight spaces in between. The decks both got two coats with overnight drying in between. There were a few wet spots but no puddling. You do need to be careful when doing the vertical surfaces if you want to prevent dripping but the hot temps may have had something to do with that. We chose the mountain cedar semi-transparent color and it looks fantastic. So far, I can’t recommend this product enough.
Just want to say Thanks for providing this site. I have used it many times for product research and techniques. In the run of two large rejuvenation projects, I saved alot of dollars and hours.
Thanks again.!!
You are welcome!
If our pressure treated deck was previously stained with Penofin, what do we need to do to change to AC stain? And if we want to use a semi transparent ? It was stained two years ago, areas are darkened, mildew on steps, stain appears thin.
Strip and brighten for the prep. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits.
I am thinking about using the twp 1500 series or Armstrong and clark. couple questions
1- My redwood fence is 8-9 months old, haven’t touched it, do I need to use the gemini cleaner/brightener before I apply stain? How would you prep, pressure washer ony?
2- Would you recommend 1 or 2 coats?
1. Use both cleaner and a wood brightener while pressure washing.
2. Two light coats applied wet on wet.
I have been told never to pressure wash a deck! The problem is it forces too much water into the wood and with extreme heat it can cause the boards expand quickly and crack the wood.
That is not true and 99% of pressure washers use cold water. Always use the proper prep products when pressure washing though as they will reduce the pressure needed significantly.
How many coats do I need for a new pressure treated wood deck? About 1 year old. Upper Northeast US. Moderate sun. Hasn’t been stained. Do 2 coats extend the life significantly, or will it need to be re-stained in the same amount of time?
Clean and brighten the wood for prep. Apply two very light coats with wet on wet method.
I have a red cedar deck about 6 years old. As soon as the deck was built we applied in oil base Stain. Started peeling about 2 years later. We hired someone to restain and they used a water based stain from Sherwin-Williams over the oil based stain. It’s been 2 years and now that is peeling. So we’ve hired someone to strip the deck my question is should we leave the deck and not stain it now. I was interested in trying the AC stain if I can do it after it has been stripped. This is getting frustrating. Thank you for any advice about what process we should do and which AC would you recommend
As long as thre prep correctly and remove all of the current coatings, you can go ahead and stain with the AC.
I stained my deck last spring….loved it. Turned out great. But now this spring our feet turn black from walking on it even after cleaning it. My granddaughter crawls and stained all her clothes her hands feet etc brownish like the deck. What can I do? Please, very discouraged.
We followed the instructions to a T.
Not sure if this issue is related to the stain or just dirt/grime buildup on top of the stain. Might want to call AC for assistance but it seems to me, it is more a result of your environment.
Hi .. Have IPE deck in Los Angeles area , intense day time summer heat from direct sun 10 hours a day and dry canyon below , south east facing, 3/4 mile from ocean, usually dew on deck in morning . Have been using AC Mahogany for a few years , last applied 9 months ago. The painter uses a machine sander (unknown grit) and then applies one coat with stain pads.
A little disappointed in the longevity of stain especially since this is the highest rated stain. Seems like restore a deck cleaner and brightener are to be used in lieu of sanding for future applications but that seems to essentially “strip” to bare wood (as seen in helpful video)… same as sanding but perhaps easier?
See photos #1 and ##3 of current state compared to second photo which shows lustrous stain after application.
1.Can I apply AC -M “earlier ” over previous coat with only cursory mild detergent soap and water cleaning ? (not restore a deck )
Or is that a waste of stain and money?
2, If above is “no” , then I assume no “stripper” is needed for reapplication of same AC stain ? Just restore a deck CLEANER and brightener ?
3. Should I simply accept the 9 month cycle with Restore a deck cleaner and brightener before restaining as the “normal” for this climate and sun exposure ?
4. Any tips to improve longevity of the beautiful stain seen in photo #2 ?
Thanks much for the comprehensive information
The issue with longevity is not with the AC but your wood type and the intense sun you have. There is nothing on the market that will last longer.
1. You need a proper deck cleaner for the prep, not mild detergent.
2. Use the deck cleaner and pressure washing for the prep.
3. Yes.
4. Sorry but nothing will last longer.
Thanks
Built a boat house with a deck above the boat house as well as decking leading to the house. This is in the Galveston Texas area. Was thinking of using AC semi solid for the UV protection. What is the renewal process down the road with AC semi solid stain. Is it a clean and brighten and reapply same stain or will AC semi solid require stripping? Do not want to get involved with stripping
You can clean and brighten as needed for reapplication. FYI, stripping the AC if ever needed is as easy or easier then cleaning. Just a different product but the same amount of work.
This was completed November last year. Is it ready now for stain. So do you think semi solid AC is best choice for this project? Is on saltwater canal in Galveston. Curious about runoff in water and vegetation with cleaning and brightening and when the need for reapplication and possible stripping being required.
This was completed November last year. Is it ready now for stain. So do you think semi solid AC is best choice for this project? Is on saltwater canal in Galveston. Curious about runoff in water and vegetation with cleaning and brightening and when the need for reapplication and possible stripping being required.
Yes on the AC semi-solid when in full sun. As for runoff, not much you can do about this when over water.
Hi, I have a redwood deck that I built two years ago. I waited until the following spring to prep it and I stained it with Armstrong semi transparent Sierra Redwood. It looked terrific but now is starting to show wear on the traffic areas. I would like to re-coat the deck and was trying to find the proper procedure.Do I have to strip it off or can I clean it and re-coat it? What products do you recommend? Thanks for your help.
Prep with a deck cleaner and pressure washing. Brightener after. You can strip but probably do not need to.
We built a new cedar deck in the fall of 2016 and let it weather until June of 2017 when we prepped the deck with Restore-A-Deck Cleaner followed by Restore-A-Deck Brightener. We applied an Armstrong Clark transparent cedar color stain. The deck looked amazing at first but it started to mildew after a couple of months and it became very dark by the end of the autumn. We have a low deck (approximately 24″) and that may have contributed to the mildew problem. I prefer the look of a transparent stain so I will strip and brighten this spring and apply a different brand of oil-based transparent stain. If the new stain fails as well, I will know that it is not the fault of the Armstrong Clark, but rather that oil based stains are not well suited for low, poorly ventilated decks. If the new stain does not fail, then I will have to conclude that the Armstrong Clark is not suited to our Canadian climate. I will post the results in the fall.
I stained the deck with a water based semi transparent stain 3 years ago. I’ve previously sent pictures and was advised to clean and brighten the deck with the RAD system. I as sent the cleaner and brightener. Will that work or should I send them back and get the stripper.
You have to strip and brighten to remove any old coatings.
We did find your old post: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-best-deck-stains/#comment-62201
We did say to strip and brighten, not clean and brighten.
Would it be possible to send the cleaner back and get the stripper.
Ask the company you bought it from.
We did find your old post: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-best-deck-stains/#comment-62201
We did say to strip and brighten, not clean and brighten.
I sent a picture in last week and I’m trying to find the help you provided but now it’s not showing up.
Hello, we do not have any prvious posts with your email. Please try again.
Just completed a KDAT Pine deck. Now can I apply AC or does it need the prep of other pressure treated Pine?
Have to wait about a month and then clean and brighten the wood for the prep.
I believe Armstrong Clark Wood, Deck stain is a Great product. But you have to read the instructions carefully. I have used this product and paid a pricey dollar for it . It was worth it, besides the side affects it has . If you leave it on your hands for a short period of time The chemical in it will burn you. Everytime !
I have used similar product, s and had a good out come with it. The true test is the application and patients. To get even coats every time. So please do not hire a contractor that just wants their money and run. You will get burned as well. Take the time and use a experience contractor. I sure did and it PAID off well. My trainer that was by my side thru the entire application process. . Never had problems with other contractors in the area. If you do Please just follow thru and take the contractor to court or put in jail. where some deserve the punishment of not giving quality work and waiting a lot of time .The contractors deserves what they get. Good Luck? ” Head up High. ”
Tiered of DIY products the Behr contractor mention several times. NO NO
Toni Allen
Fresh Start consulting and services, INC.
Wrap around decks all covered but one and it is 24×16..used Thompson Water
Seal and it doesnt last one season. Can I use an oil base stain deck stain over it?
Other decks are flaking and peeling but too much area for me to strip and restart
and cannot afford to replace. They had originally been stained with transparent
stain but when worn they were redone with solid deck paint. Needless to say
they flaked and peeled. Pressure washed last year but have not redone them.
Would an oil base stain ( non latex washable) be my best way to make them look
presentable?
No. You cannot use any brand over the Thompsons. It must be removed by stripping. For the other decks that are solid colored stain, you can only use a solid stain again unless you want to fully sand or replace the wood. Solid color decks stains are only available in water-based versions. We have not seen a solid color oil based stain in 5-8 years.
Howdy. Moved into a new house with a 5yr old 500 sq ft rooftop deck that doesn’t appear to have had any stain since it was constructed. It receives direct sunlight so is extremely grey at this point. Since it is also a bit rough to the touch, I was considering sanding. You don’t seem to advocate sanding as part of the preparation process. Would simply pressure washing, cleaning and brightening do the trick?
Lastly, would you recommend the AC over the TWP1500, or are they pretty similar? I’m in DC so super hot summers, a little bit of snow in the winter. Thanks so much!
No need to sand. Just clean and brighten. The AC is a great stain and so is the TWP 1500. Either would work well.
Hi, I applied AC Rustic a couple of years ago on my cedar deck and need to do a maintenance coat. I still have the RAD kit leftovers from before the original staining. I’ve seen somewhat conflicting info here as to whether I should use the cleaner only or the brightener as well before applying a maintenance coat of AC? Can I use a brush to scrub the cleaner or I need a pressure washer?
Thank you
Best to use both and light pressure washing. If you have time, post a finished picture.
FINALLY! I waited a year before posting my comments regarding the Armstrong-Clark Exterior Wood & Deck Stain (Semi-solid Sierra Redwood) as I wanted to come at this review with at least one year of wear and tear on the stain. Having owned three houses, all with wood decks (new and old) I have had the displeasure of trying all the leading deck stain products over 35 years including recently high end stains from Olympic (Elite 4200) and Defy External, among others. All have been a total disappointment. Before you say it was my poor prep I can tell you as a retired R&D engineer I faithfully follow manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. Just my nature. The last product I used was Defy External Clear. I had high hopes for this stuff but after only 7 months it started flaking. After a hard upstate New York winter it looked terrible! This was my starting point for one more stain try before ripping up the deck and replacing it with composite.
My 9 year old pressure treated deck faces SW and sees full sun for 3 months of the year. Temps range from 90 to 0 deg F with over 100 inches of snow. I sanded the entire deck surface to remove the remaining Defy product. I then used cleaner and brightener followed by a light sanding to remove the raised wood fibers then let it dry for a couple days. I applied the Armstrong-Clark stain with a brush and let it dry overnight. It went on great and the the semi-solid stain allowed the grain to show through exactly as I hoped it would. Now the wait was on.
So a year later the snow has melted off the deck and to my surprise the deck looks as good as it did when I applied the stain! It is still uniform in color and just a touch lighter. Water is still beading up in most areas. Even one difficult section that habitually had green algae due to the least sun exposure over the year looks great! There are a couple very small areas around two wood knots that look grey, probably to to excess resin in the pine wood that may have leached out but overall I am extremely satisfied with this product! My hats off to the folks at AC for FINALLY giving us a product that does what it says! Keep up the good work.
Thanks for your review on the AC. Do you have any pictures?
Here are a couple pictures, one from last year after staining and one from this spring after the snow had melted. Haven’t put the deck furniture out yet!
Looks great!
What color stain did you use? Thx
I used the Sequoia Semi Solid stain.
Thanks, it’s beautiful👍🏻
I installed new red cedar deck boards on our above ground pool deck in April 2017. The deck has gone through one full year without staining or finishing including this current winter of seasoning. I have purchased the Restore-A-Deck kit and the Armstrong Clark semi-transparent cedar stain from you to finish the new deck boards. I plan to complete this in May or June this year. Do I need to sand the “new” red cedar boards ahead of preparing them with the Restore-A-Deck kit and then applying the stain?
No need to sand prior to prep. It is possible though you may get some “fuzzies” after the prep since the wood has been sitting exposed for over a year. This is caused by heavy oxidation/graying that is removed during prep. Please read this article so you can be proactive if this happens: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Hello. I have a redwood fence that was installed in August 2017 in San Jose, Ca. I am considering the Armstrong Clark product. Is it too soon to do the initial stain on this fence? Temperature when I apply will be in the 60’s now.
You are good to stain at this point with the AC.
Can I use Armstrong-Clark on sitting areas; Adirondack chairs?
Yes. We use it on benches all the time.
Can I apply the Armstrong Clark over a TWP stain, or do I need to strip it? We’ve had some problems with mildew on our cedar fence and would like to try something different. Definitely don’t want to strip it – went down that road after dealing with Arborcoat. Are semi-solid stain less susceptible to mildew? Thinking something darker as well. Thank you!
You will need to strip it. The good news is that TWP is easy to remove. Just apply a stripper like the RAD stripper and pressure wash off. Neutralize with a brightener after. No harder than cleaning with a deck cleaner.
Semi-solids will not do any differently with mold prevention. They will offer better UV protection.
I really want to stain our new deck gray, but I’m having trouble finding a good quality stain with a gray color that actually looks gray (most seem to have a brown tint). I live in Michigan. I’ve already prepped the deck, so I’m raring to go, but finding a good quality stain is slowing me down. Any suggestions?
AC has a Driftwood Gray color. Make sure to let your new wood weather and prep.
Really good stain! I applied AC rustic brown to a new kdat deck 1 year ago, it looks like a piece of furniture. It’s time to reapply and the only thing i notice after a year is, it looks a little “dryer” or lighter than before.
Will this stain come off on feet and cushions?
Had bad experience with other products in the past. Was told that all stains legal in California have this problem!?
Full curing stains are 100% drying so they do not rub off. The AC is a full curing stain and a penetrating stain. The issue can be if you do not prep correctly or over apply. Has nothing to do with CA VOC laws.
I live in Toronto Canada, and have just had a new tongue and groove porch ceiling installed. It is white cedar. I would like to protect it while keeping it as close as possible to its natural color. It doesn’t get a lot of direct sunlight and is mostly protected from rain. Is this product appropriate for this application? And do I need to let it age first and / or pre-treat with something? It is already starting to darken and grey in streaks, and I was hoping to treat it before it gets too dark. Also in 3 months it will December and too cold. Thank you.
Yes, you need to weather and prep. About 3 months. Use their Natural color.
Thank you. Since it will be December in 3 months (and v. cold) will it be a problem to wait until spring/summer? And by prep, do you mean the ‘restore a deck’ kit?
It will be fine to wait until Spring of 2018. You can use the RAD Kits for the prep. We have used the AC Natural for cedar t&g before for one of our restoration jobs.
I live in the Denver, Co. area and just put in a red cedar deck. I want to maintain the color and grain of the wood but I’m confused by the number and type of products to choose from Cabot, Olympic, Valspar, etc…. what’s the best product to use?
Use the Armstrong Clark. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I put a coat of AC semi-transparent cedar stain on a new cedar deck last year. I thought it looked great but my wife wanted to tone down the color, which she felt didn’t go well with our light-brown log home. This year we decided to apply a coat of natural finish instead of a second coat of semi-transparent cedar. Now our deck is rapidly turning black. We live in New England, the deck is in full sunlight until mid-afternoon and fully exposed to the elements. We had zero problems with the first coat…what to do now?
Did you strip and brighten the wood for the prep? You cannot apply a lighter color over a darker color.
The first coat, though slightly faded looked good after a year, so I did not strip it off prior to putting the natural coat over it. I am assuming that I will need to strip the entire porch, both horizontal and vertical members, and essentially start over. What products are best suited for this, and what exactly is the best process?
Strip and brighten to fix is the correct way. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper Kits.
I have two decks: one made of ipe and the other redwood. I stripped, pressure washed and sanded the old Sikkens finish off both decks and applied Armstrong Clark wood stain in mahogany and the finish is terrific. It dried almost immediately on the redwood but took about a week to dry on the ipe.
I have mahogany railings and balusters on both decks that I sanded down to bare wood and then applied Armstrong Clark wood stain also in mahogany. After a week it still leaves a residue on your hands – it apparently takes a long time to thoroughly dry but the color is excellent.
I would like to apply 4-5 coats of an exterior urethane to the railings and balusters over the mahogany stain with a product such as Minwax spar urethane in a clear satin finish. Will this hold up over time? Pros and cons of doing this? Do you have another recommendation?
You cannot apply a poly over a deck stain and you should never apply a poly to exterior wood decking. It will blister and peel. Don’t do it and save yourself a lot of hassle of trying to fix it: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/apply-polyurethane-to-a-deck/
I did not intend to put a poly over my wood decking.
Is there any topcoat I could apply over the railings to give it a finish more in line with what you see on wood railings on sail boats or other water craft?
No. It will peel and blister with a top coat.
Can you use a pump sprayer to apply an AC stain or is that just bad? What is the downside?
It is too thick for a pump sprayer.
Hello, I have settled on Armstrong stain, but am still prepping my deck. I have pressure washed, and removed dirt/grime, etc. still have some areas of old stain. I believe this is Cabot spf, and can,t find if it is solid, semi solid, or semi transparent – trying to determine if I need a stripper to finish prepping, or if sanding is the only other thing to remove rest of the stain.
Representative photos attached. Thanks!
Try a stain stripper first. If that does not remove it, sand the rest off. Make sure to brighten the wood when done.
We are refinishing a modern cabin sized home with log ‘siding’ (pine?–not full logs) This is in Western Oregon where there are many months of rain. There are rain gutters, etc, but no overhang for protection. The original finish mildewed badly under the coating, so we went through a removal process of deck cleaner,with lots and lots of scrubbing and rinsing, and deck brightner and rinsing, which brought it back to a white wood that water will penetrate. As a precaution, because mildew under these semi transparent finishes is such a problem, we decided to also bleach it (40% bleach) and rinsed it well after it set a few minutes.
It appears that we have awesome bare wood now, but some say the bleach does not kill all the spores in the wood and it’s been suggested that we we spray it with undiluted white vinegar and just let that dry without rinsing it off. For one thing, the vinegar is supposed to create a PH that inhibits mildew. What kind of feedback can you give me regarding that vinegar step. Will it affect the bonding in any way if we go with a penetrating oil stain? Should we rinse the vinegar out ?
What would be the most highly recommended brands of stain ? A contractor said he has had terrible luck with mold growing back under new coatings of water borne stain and highly recommends going with a penetrating oil ( despite the fact that mildew is known to feed on oils like linseed oil ). Would anyone recommend Olympic Elite Woodland Oil, or Armstrong Semi-transparent Wood Stain, or Sun Frog Deck Sealer, or a Cabot product like Australian Timber Oil ? Do any of them last longer or have a truly simple recoat process (Armstrong claims a simple and easy recoat). Or should we give up the wood look and go for a solid color stain (water or oil) so we’re not faced with another tough recoat process in 2-5 years, especially if we wait a little too long and it starts discoloring. Your feedback would be greatly appreciated since there are so many conflicting opinions and suggestions out there. Thanks
Vinegar does change the pH level but will have zero effect on preventing mold/mildew in the future. Not sure if it will harm the stain’s performance or not. Doubt it will.
Go with the Armstrong Clark stain in a semi-solid color.
Hi, I have a 23 year old deck of treated pine. We have only ever used Thompson clear sealer on it. No stain ever. We just cleaned it this week with with bleach and detergent combo…it cleaned up really well. Rinsed off well with water and have let it dry for a few days. Then we repIaced one board….What should I do to that board…it beads up when with water is poured on…should I clean it too and/or sand before a applying the Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain???
Try sanding it.
Hello, I bought some non-treated pine boards and would like to stain them with semi-transparent black walnut. I was going to give them a lite sanding and then use Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner… Is this a good idea???
No. Do not use the Minwax.
What would you recommend ?
Thx
No need for a pre stain conditioner. Just go ahead with the AC after three months of weathering and prepping with a deck cleaner and a wood brightener.
Just wanted to confirm. I have a redwood deck being built now. You recommend waiting 4 months before staining it?? Also, is there a preferred temperature range for application? I’m in the Salt Lake City area and it doesn’t rain often but it’s quite warm right. now- high 90’s. Of course, in 4 months, it will be November. Snow will be a bigger concern than high temps. I’m assuming that it’s better to stain it before winter sets in. So perhaps, staining around the 2 month mark at the end of September??
AC wants about 3 months to age and prepped before staining. Just 1 coat. I would not do in Sept. You can wait until Spring. One Winter will not harm it.
Is it ok to use airless sprayer when applying Armstrong Clark semi transparent cedar stain on cedar fence?
Yes
I did test samples with Armstrong. We initially liked the new black walnut, but after a week, the stain has penetrated so deep into the wood, it is very light now. So my question is, how do we get that dark stain back as I assume if we put it on our whole deck, it will do the same. The test wood was a piece from our deck. we stripped the deck, sanded and brighten. its pine. we didn’t know if applying one coat, then waiting till the following year to apply a maintenance coat will bring it back to dark or not. we really do not want to apply two coats at time of application as that seems to be the death of a stain and the problems start.
Over application is not good. The AC will need to saok deep into the grain. Applying two coats can be done as long as the first coat fully soaks in after about 30 minutes.
Cleaning lightly and reapplying a year later can be done as well.
My computer is turning the word the into thanks so please excuse the incorrect wording in my recent post.
I live in Michigan and have ab upper and lower deck total about 1250 sq feet. The decks are 26 years old and since thanks beginning I have tried to research the best product to use to protect the wood. Since I hire people to do thanks work I am happy to pay more to get a product that will last longer. The decks are exposed to snow and direct western sun in summer.
I have been using Armstrong Clark mountain cedar semi solid for the last 6 years and am really impressed by its longevity on my decks. I had to convince my deck company to try it and supplied it to them. They were very pleased working with it.
Also, thanks customer support calling directly to the manufacturer in CA is A+. Good answers to all my questions.
It may not be as easy to get as some of the more common brands but worth the effort for a superior product.
We have had a new cedar deck installed. It faces west and gets full sun from 1:00 to dark. We live in the humid hot Midwest high above the Mississippi River. Since our home is a gray lime stone, I would like the cedar to age gracefully to silver gray without any sealing or staining . But from the information on your site, I am wondering if that is wise given our geography (not a dry climate.) Any advice will be appreciated. And thank you for all the information on the various product choices.
If you want to age or oxidize naturally to gray, then you should use a clear sealer without any tint.
previusly used cabotwoodtone deck&siding stain 3yrs ago .powerwashed deck &used deck cleaner but still shows some slight color on afew boards.hoping to use armstrong&clarke stain. willthis be aproblem.will probably power wash one more time.
Use a deck stain stripper and then pressure wash off. After you are done, apply a wood brightener to all.
I need to retreat my deck and like what I read about Armstrong Clark. I’ve stripped and prepped my deck but wonder if I’ve done enough. I live in metro Atlanta and have a small, near ground level 12 year old pressure treated deck with no railings. I’ve been using Thompson’s every couple of years and finally realize what a lousy product it is. The first few applications were clear but 2 years ago put on a semi-transparent variety. I was going to use it again but decided to find a better product. I started by using Behr’s finish stripper and scrubbed every square inch. Then scrubbed again with Behr’s wood cleaner to neutralize the stripper chemical. The wood now looks great, completely color-free and bright looking, seems to be in good shape. Is that enough prep for something like the Armstrong semi-solid or semi-transparent? Is oil based or water based a better choice? Thanks!
Should be as long as your removed the old stain and you cannot visibly see it anymore. AC is a great choice and comes only in oil based formulas.
Northern New York, larch siding (cove) I want the grain to jump out as it is rich and well contrasted and want high protection against graying — whats your recommendation?
The Armstrong Clark would work well for this.
Hello, I’m interested in staining my deck with Armstrong Clark Oxford Brown semi-solid. Their website says it is “not for sitting surfaces or furniture. Does this mean I should not apply to a deck (that has furniture on it), or are they saying it cannot be applied to to something like a wood bench? I’m also curious as to how the semi-solid stain would hold up to moving deck furniture/grill and dog paws? Thanks
Not for wood furniture is what they mean. It is used all the time for decking.
I live in Florida and used this stain on my deck…it is in directly sunlight the majority of the day. I applied this stain and it covered well and looked great when complete. However, every time I walk on the deck, my shoe soles are coated in pigment and it tracks everywhere.
This goes away in a few days as it fully cures.
I live in NY, Capital district area. My deck is sealed last 3-year with TWP-100 semi transparent, it faces the sun since morning until 2pm. Now it fade around and has splinters, some area still coated some area I can see wood.
I’m thinking about 2 choices:
1 Go with AC semi -solid this year, Would it last longer than semi-transparent than TWP? Do I have to strip it and brighten it?
2 Go with TWP-100 again, do I just clean and brighten it?
Your answer would be appreciated.
1. Semi-solids have slightly better UV protection from fading. Strip and brighten for the prep.
2. If staying the same, just clean and brighten but the 100 Series is not allowed in NY. You have to use the 1500 there based on VOC laws.
Per choice 1. Instead of stripping it, can I sand then brighten it?
Stripping is much easier than sanding and the TWP is an easy product to strip. If you sand, use 60-80 grit and you should lighly clean and brighten after to open the pores and remove any sand dust.
Will sanding 1 year old red cedar eliminate need for clearners etc.?
Not usually but depends on how much oxidation occurred.