Update 2019 for Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Reviews
Here at DeckStainHelp.com we take pride in the fact that we have become the Internet’s number one reference for all things exterior wood and deck restoration related. Our customers who have used Armstrong Clark wood deck stain continue to be satisfied by the appearance and longevity of their deck stain projects. If you have used Armstrong Clark wood deck stain, we appreciate your input, so feel free to leave a comment below and pictures of your completed projects if you have them.
New this year for Armstrong Clark is the Espresso Semi-Solid color, a rich deep brown tone that promises excellent UV resistance.
Armstrong Clark Deck Stain Review
Important Note: This is our 3rd Review of Armstrong Clark Stain.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain is a highly regarded oil based stain formulated with 5 generations of stain industry experience. Armstrong Clark is available in several formulas: Transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid colors.
Armstrong Clark Deck Stains are uniquely blended with drying and non-drying oils that isolate from each other during application. The non-drying oils penetrate the wood fibers and help rejuvenate and condition lost natural oils while the drying oils cure on the surface to lock in the conditioning oils and form a barrier of weather protection at the surface.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
Armstrong Clark Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 9
– The initial appearance of Armstrong Clark was a rich deep finish with naturally enhanced wood grain showing through the semi-solid formula. Our choice of the Cedar Semi-Transparent color had a rich cedar tone.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– Upon our 2-year inspection, Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain produced above-average UV resistance. Being a semi-transparent Cedar color we projected better than average UV shielding and it did not disappoint. It would seem to us that the transparent colors would deliver slightly less UV shielding due to less pigment in the formula, while the semi-solid colors of the AC would have slightly better UV protection when in full sun.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
– No peeling was detected at the 2-year point. There was a slight wearing on the high traffic areas, around the furniture, and on the stairs.
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– Armstrong Clark Deck Stain can be purchased for $38.99-$45.99 depending on the opacity of the formula. In our test experience, Armstrong Clark had one of the best spread rates of any stain. We used a total of 3.5 gallons on our 600 square foot deck applied in one coat.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 8
– At 2 years we noticed some slight mold growth on top of the Armstrong Clark stain in some shaded areas. We did not detect any mildew spores within the stain as the mildew spores could be wiped away using a wet towel.
Ease of Application: 9
– The Armstrong Clark Deck Stain was super easy to apply and extremely user-friendly. Upon the manufacturer’s claims of being able to apply in direct sunlight, we tested our application on a 90-degree day in full sun. We were surprised the stain did not dry too quickly and applied evenly in those conditions, avoiding potential issues with Applying a Deck Stain in Full Sun. There were no excess dripping issues on the railings even though we applied using a pump sprayer and back wiped with a stain brush. The semi-transparent stain applied well using this method.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8.5
– Our 2-year test of Armstrong Clark Stain in Semi-Trans Cedar color did show signs of slight darkening from its original color. We figured this was likely due to a higher solid content of the formula. The AC is over 70% solids, containing both linseed and paraffin oils.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
– Because Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain penetrates well and did not overly darken it would be easy to recoat. A simple cleaning with a wood deck cleaner to remove dirt, grime, and mold spores would be plenty sufficient prior to reapplying.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.5
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain held up well at our 2-year test mark. Easy to apply and terrific coverage rates, raise Armstrong Clark to a high level. No peeling and only a slight darkening color shift were more than acceptable. Easy to maintain and prep prior to recoating. Armstrong Clark is definitely one of our top choices for a professional durable finish that lasts and is easy to work with in the future.
Product Information:
More Info: Armstrong Clark Stains
Cost: $40.99 per Gallon, $219.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia, Semi-Transparent Chestnut, Semi-Trans Natural Oak, Semi-Trans Black Walnut for Hardwoods
Application Temperature: 50-110 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 8-72 Hours, Depending on UV exposure and air temps
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: Under 50 VOCs. Compliant in All 50 States and Los Angeles Counties
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Semi-Transparent Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
An Independent YouTube Customer Review – How to Prep and Apply a Maintenance Coat of Armstrong Clark
Extremely impressed with this stain. After a backbreaking job of sanding and brightening the cupped pressure treated 7’x28’ front porch and four 5’ wide steps, I was praying the finished product would be worth it. I wasn’t disappointed. A complete transformation. Very easy to apply, and huge bonus not having to time application to avoid the sun. Used two coats applied only about 20 mins apart but dries enough in that time to not have worries about leaving shoe imprints on previously coated surfaces. Finish was rich and smooth. After almost a year signs of wear are minimal, and only on steps used to drag bicycles and scooters up and down in addition to very heavy foot traffic.
Will recoat steps this summer and that’s it. Highly recommend,
Do you have any pictures to post?
I’m out of town for a couple of weeks but can get take some pictures when I return and post them at that time. I never think to do a before and after. If you had seen the before, you’d be amazed by the after.
Afters would be great. Thanks!
New deck, weathered a few months. With a moisture meter, I found 10-15% pretty uniform across the whole deck. I want to get it stained before winter with Armstrong Clark semi trans. I’ve read that this is acceptable moisture content for application of stain. Any suggestions
Make sure to clean and brighten the wood for prep. It is not about moisture % but porosity. New wood does need to season for a few months and be prepped. Just one coat of the AC. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thanks I did clean and brighten as recommended. Is there a need to sand as well. I read several places that sanding should be done to increase adsorption
Sanding hinders not helps absorption.
Is it necessary to sand as well? I read several places that sanding helps with absorption. Trying to avoid that if possible
Interested in the Armstrong Clark semi solid or semi transparent .which is best for walking out padio door and on out into the yard ? This is a 50 x12 deck cleaned never stained, 2years old treated lumber and covered .
Either would be fine but semi-solid will give longer UV protection.
I didn’t realize to use a deck cleaner and instead deeply pressure washed my deck. Some AC semi-transparent stain remains in some corners & a number of deck boards. What should I do to further prep my deck for a darker AC semi-transparent stain and what timelines should I expect if a “prep” product is recommended. Will I need a pressure washer again? Hoping to finish this project within a week. Thanks for your help.
Post a picture of the current prep.
will take a photo when home later today.
I did one coat of my AC Natural Oak semi-trans. I might have a weather window in the next two weeks to do another coat and would love to get the horizontals a touch darker. Would a sweep and/or light rinse be adequate prep before applying? What do you recommend?
If I’m not able to do a second coat, will my stain keep/store until Spring? I have a 5 gallon pail. Would it be wise to transfer it to smaller gallon containers so there is less air and perhaps a better seal?
Thanks so much for the assistance.
-Chris
Light water wash and let dry for 48 hours.
Thank you so much. It has been a bit longer than I expected (2 wks vs 1), but I have a potential weather window this week to do a second coat. If the deck has gotten a little dirty (light soil footprints) in some higher wear areas could/should I do more than a light water wash? The high wear areas are minimally patchy as well since they were potentially walked on a little early after the first coat, but I hope a 2nd coat will help. I can send pictures if helpful.
Just to a pressure wash rinse. That should clean it.
Hello,
We live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. We have not stained our 9 year old cedar deck and fence for a few years. We recently strpped and brightened it and are ready to stain. Our last stain was 5 years ago with Defy. Our deck is a west exposure with 1/2 day of full sun. Our summers are not that hot and our winters are very cold, some winters get a lot of snow, but not every winter. After reading the reviews on your website, we have narrowed the choices to three stains: TWP 200; Armstrong; and Restore-a-Deck. What do you recommend for the deck and fence? Thank you. Johnny
Any of those three would work very well. Up to you.
Michigan, PT pine, Sherwin semi-trans penetrating has been stripped with RAD step 1.
Next day, dampened, brightened with RAD step 2.
Now raining. Rain predicted for next 5 days.
1. What prep steps do I need to take to finish once rain quits?
We are going with AC. Probably the semi-solid.
2. AC product sheet states “not for seating areas”. We have 6ft planter bench with place to sit…. what should be done here?
3. Can semi-solid be “touched up” year after year?
Thank you.
1. Nothing, just make sure it is dry.
2. Just the semi-solid is not for seating areas.
3. Yes if needed.
This company has the Best Customer Service! They take their time, listen to you and give you really helpful feedback. When I spoke to a representative there, he educated me on the process and which and whether the stains from Armstrong would be the best option. I highly recommend their stains. It’s so rare these days to find that kind of guidance and good intentions.
I am looking to stain a new cedar deck in the Pacific NW. Does this product apply well on new wood?
You will need to allow the new wood weather: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I am building a brand new deck with Western Red Cedar. I love the natural color of cedar and would like to keep that as long as possible. I do NOT want it to turn gray. So here are my questions:
1. If I use a transparent stain, will it protect against graying?
2. Your testing on all the deck stains was done on pressure treated pine. How do those tests apply to cedar?
3. The supports of my deck will be pressure treated pine – how close will the colors end up looking with the stain applied to pine and cedar.
4. How many years will AC stain really last before I have to reapply it?
1. Transparent will have some UV protection. Better to use semi-transparent.
2. Cedar wood stains the same with AC.
3. Slightly different.
4. See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck
I am thinking of using Armstrong Clark to restain my 17year old cedar deck. I have previously used Defy water-based stain but was not happy with the results or the sun restrictions for application. I will be replacing some deck boards in some sections. Is there any special treatment that I need to do prior to starting this project
You will need to strip and brighten the wood to remove the Defy first.
Good morning –
The attached pictures illustrates my concerns but it’s not with stain. I strongly believe it came out the way it did because of the hired hand. I watched as they sprayed using an electric paint/stain sprayer and the guy was going across the pickets instead of up and down. I also had a lot of stain left over indicative of him not using enough. I’m not positive but don’t believe he mixed the 5 gallon pails of stain either. Yeah, I apparently didn’t due my homework in choosing the right professional. I prepped the fence as instructed. It was a brutally hot and humid day when they sprayed. What do you think? Are my reasons for the splotchy and unsightly finish due to the pro?
The staining was done just over a month ago. Can I re-stain now or should I wait? Since I paid a lot of money to hire this company I’m asking them to come back and fix. What advice should I give them besides what I identified to already be the issues with their work above.
Thank you.
definitely poor application. Not sure though if apply another coat will or will not even it out. Best to try a few boards and see if it will.
“Not sure though if apply another coat will or will not even it out” – what does that mean? My fence may or may not ever have a nice even look? Is there a better chance of achieving an even coat by waiting until the fence needs a second coat in 3-4 years?
Adding more stain does not alway even out a poor application job. If it does not, then best to remove and start over. Waiting a few years would probably not make a difference.
Great!! Thank you for the replies. Wish me luck.
If the stain was applied with a sprayer it still needs to be worked into the grain with a brush. Someone should come behind the spray guy with a brush and spread and work in the stain. This may account for the blotchiness as the stain has not been spread evenly. Also, most of the stain manufactures do not recommend applying stain in really hot weather. if the board is “hot” to the touch, it is too hot to stain. just my two cents worth.
After reading a whole combination of reviews including those here on deckstain help I went with Armstrong Clark Mahogany for my 18-year-old mahogany deck. I went to the company website and ordered a sample can to test for color. Liked it and the way it went on so ordered a 5lb can. Stripped old Cabots stain (which actually worked quite well but wanted to try something else to see if it would last longer and also because AC is said to be able to just put on a fresh coat each year with little preparation) using RAD stripper and brightener. Then decided I wanted to sand it down to smooth out some areas and flatten some boards which had slightly curled over 18 years. Brightened again after sanding. (not sure if that was necessary but it looked awesome after I did it. Applied Armstong Clark with a combination of brush and pad. Went on very smooth (I recommend Cabots stain pad over the Amazon highly-rated Shurline pad, WAAAY better). I started at 6 am but as always the cutting and brush work took way longer than anticipated so I was still working at noon when it was scorching sun and over 92 degrees. Saw zero difference in application ability from 70 degrees in shade to 92 degrees and full sun. Thought it was going to dry much darker than I hoped as it darkened within minutes but actually settled into a very nice color with individual mahogany boards keeping their own character. Pouring rain today and very happy to see water beading as if the deck was made of plastic. This with only one thin coat. Will update this review in one year when I see how it holds up from a weathering standpoint. My deck is almost full sun from sunrise to sunset.
I’m going to be staining my PT pine deck which I just sanded off all the Behr solid stain off of with Armstrong Clark Rustic Brown semi-transparent. I have 2 questions regarding application:
1. It seems that standard applicator pads are 9″ wide, while my deck boards are 6″ wide. Won’t this create a dark line on every other board? I plan on backbrushing, but since the boards are staggered and if I use a 9″ pad – I won’t be able to cover the entire length of 2 adjacent boards at one time. What is the best approach here?
2. If I want to have the color as dark as possible – I can do a second application after 20 minutes correct? Is it okay to walk on the already applied areas after 20 minutes?
Go on Amazon and order the Cabots stain pad. I had one of those and one of the 9 inch Shur Line pads. The Cabots was 6 inches, thicker, did not drip (the Shur Line dripped like crazy) and lasted twice as long.
I have a large rooftop deck about 2 years old (1 sealed one year ago with a clear coat). Wood had mild graying in exposed areas. Waterproofing is also pretty much gone in exposed areas. We get tons of sun and rooftop deck gets little relief during exposure to sun.
I would like to apply a semi-solid dark coat. Something like slate. What would be my steps to prep for that stain? I’m willing to go solid as well. Preferably on the stairs at least. Is solid a wise choice for a rooftop deck? I get LOTS of sunlight.
It would be better to use a penetrating semi-solid over a solid stain. Less chance of wear. The best brand for this is the Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color. They do not have a gray but they have a nice rich dark brown called Espresso. Clean and brighten for the prep.
Clean not strip right? Any videos or pages you can point me to if you don’t mind?
Clean and brighten for prep should work. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-cleaners/
Getting ready to stain my smaller 12×12 deck. New stain (Ready Seal Natural Cedar 112) put on last May 2018 after sanding, power wash. Deck people said it would have to be done again this year of which it does. I’m going to power wash and stain with the same now. That going to be all I need to do? Just faded. Wood good. Thanks
Yes, but you should go with a better stain like the Armstrong Clark that you posted the question under. Ready Seal will only last one year so it will need to be redone next year.
Follow up question please. I just power washed and will let let dry a couple days. I’m probably going to still use my Ready Seal stain from 1st time. Will putting 2 coats on last longer than a year or applying heavy on 1 coat be ok? Thank you.
Ready Seal will not last more then a year no matter if it has 1 or 2 coats. Better to only do one since over applying the RS could lead to oil tracking inside the house. It is known for doing this as it is a non-drying oil.
I’ve been using Cabot timber oil to stain my deck, and if I switch to Armstrong-Clark, can i just directly apply the AC on the surface, or do I need to remove the original stain?
You will need to strip off the Cabot first.
What application mentioned should I use for the semi-solid Armstrong Clark on a prepped old pine deck?
2 full coats? 2 coats wet on wet?
Just one coat will work when doing the semi-solid.
After much deck prep, re-doing of deck prep, and research (and recommendations from this site) I am close to purchasing a 5-gallon pail of Armstrong Clark semi transparent Natural oak stain for my almost two year old cedar deck (After RAD cleaning and brightening and some spot stripping). We’ve had quite the problem with mildew/black mold spots being in a wet and shady spot. We know that this might be exacerbated by the deck being close to the ground and semi-limited ventilation underneath and are working to improve drainage/grading to help.
That being said, is there anything we can do additionally to prevent the mold/mildew spots from coming back with our AC stain application? Should I be adding more mildew-cide or is what is already in the stain adequate? I have sometimes heard people mention Borate as well. Worth it? Lastly, we are hoping that a little bit darker stain like the Natural oak will make the mildew/mold spots less apparent if it is just a reality for us. Is that unrealistic? If it is surface mold (hopefully), what/if any kind of light cleaning might remove it if/when it comes back after stain application. Thank you (again).
More mildewcide will not help. AC already has a lot. I doubt borate will help. A darker stain would make the mildew less noticeable if it comes.
Mildew usually grows on top of a stain not under or in the stain. Some people have had success applying “Wet and Forget” on top of their stain. Maybe try that?
I like this brand of stain very much. If the cost isn’t too different from your supplier, I suggest you buy 5 one gallon pails. You have to shake and stir before you pour, and we had a lot of trouble with the 5-gallon pail (the spout is tiny.) We managed to spill a lot, and I don’t think we even managed to stir it very well after all that trouble–it settles quickly.
When I looked at the price, 5 one gallon pails was not too different, and I wish I had ordered that and will in the future.
My deck is 5-6 years old and previous owners applied a semi solid or solid Behr stain. I have removed it with a Behr stripper, pressure washer, and lots of power sanding. I am planning to use the semi-transparent rustic brown stain. Several questions:
1. I have already purchased the Behr cleaner/brightener that I am planning to use next – will this be an acceptable cleaner/brightener to neutralize the stripper and prep for the Armstrong stain?
2. Due to the trim detail on my railings, some of the previous solid stain is very difficult to remove. I understand that it is best to remove all previous stain before applying the semi-transparent but what will be the result if I am not able to? Just some splotchy spots where the stain is still there?
3. I am planning to apply with an airless sprayer – Should I plan to order/go through more stain?
1. We do not like any Behr prep products. We would return it if possible.
2. A semi-transparent stain cannot be applied over a solid stain. It will look bad.
3. Probably a little less.
Thank you for the information! Several follow up questions:
1. Based on other responses, I assume you would recommend the RAD cleaner and brightener in my case instead of the Behr? If so, would these neutralize the stripper I have already used?
2. I plan to used a solid white stain on the rail posts and some other parts of the rail. What would you suggest for the stain brand?
3. As I mentioned, I have removed most of the previous solid stain by sanding – Will the solid white cover the previous dark stain that is left?
4. Based on the solid white rails and the semi-transparent brown floor, what would the best order of stain be? I was thinking white first and then the semi-transparent brown since it may be easier to wipe off any splatters?
1. RAD will work but any good quality cleaner and brightener will as well.
2. RAD makes a good white solid stain. Floor Pro Series is another.
3. Yes, it should but you may need 2-3 coats.
4. Solid first, semi-transparent last.
where can i buy??
http://www.armstrongclarkstain.com
Just finished with AC Black Walnut. I like the final product very much and this is one of the best stains I have ever used. As a pro painter several years ago I had the opportunity to be in several different kinds of stain. This product is easy to use and yields great results when applied over properly prepared surfaces. As the home owner we are thrilled with the end result. Some before and after pics.
Looks great!
Quick question though, and it’s really kinda too late to care. The color is Black Walnut. I just put a temp gun on it at noon in the Florida sun. Deck temp was 170* F. How bad is that? What effect will that have on the wood? Vynle siding right beside the deck is 117*F. Melting point of siding for warp is about 165*F
No issues besides walking around in bare feet. I would not suggest that right now.
Getting ready to Stain a 10×11 entry deck with AC semi-trans stain. Deck is new wood 6 months old. It is in a carport so it has limited exposure to rain. I have just today sanded the deck with 80 grit. The wood is clean, white and bright. How necessary is it to now was and brighten with something like Restore-a-deck cleaner and brightener, provided I have swept and used a yard blower to remove all dust? ?
Thanks
Michael
It opens up the wood grain so the stain can soak in deeper.
How many gallons do I need for Semi Transparent – Cedar for 330sq ft? I want a lighter colour, so 1 coat.
2 Gallons of the AC.
There are several different Armstrong products. Translucent semi-translucent etc… what is the best to use for decks?
Any will work but we normally stick with the semi-transparent colors.
Thank you for a marvelous site and all your work and valuable information!
I am in southern Ontario Canada.
About a year ago I replaced my 15 year old green pressure treated deck boards (never did anything to it but sweep it off).
The new boards are brown pressure treated and I would like to stain them rather than letting them go grey.
It looks like oil penetrating stain is the way to go with the least maintenance, so I have ordered some semi transparent samples from Armstrong Clark. I also ordered the RAD cleaner and brightener.
I am really nervous about the job (time, money and ongoing maintenance) and want to know your opinion on if it is a good idea to stain the pressure treated deck in the first place, and if my choice of Armstrong Clark semi transparent is the best one?
Thanks a million!
Yes and yes.
Our deck in San Jose California is redwood. In 2013 we had it power-washed and stained with Cabot semi-solid stain (Redwood color). We loved the look and due to our laziness, did not decide until this year (2019) to have it treated again. The deck has spots of bare wood on the stairs, and appears somewhat faded. There are no dark marks on the wood. We thought that it just needs to be power-washed and stained again with another coat (or two) of semi-solid stain. We want the same semi-solid look and a similar color. We have been told that is not an option. Recommendations have been so far: (1)sanding the entire deck and then applying our choice of semi-solid or semi-transparent stain (2) power washing and then applying a solid (not semi) stain as that was the only method that would work. We were told that you cannot apply a semi-solid stain to a previously applied semi-solid stain and that our only choice was a solid stain. The Cabot product does not have good reviews any longer. The Armstrong product is highly recommended.
We want to use it but need to know from a reliable source (your website) that we can power-wash the deck and have the semi-solid Armstrong stain applied over the old Cabot semi-solid stain.
Thank you in advance.
You do have to remove if switching brands and going with a new semi-solid. The AC cannot be applied over the Cabot.
Where can I buy this product
Check online or at their website.
Hi l am going to use the driftwood semi transprent on a weathered and prepped new pt deck.i was wondering if it can be tinted a little to get a darker gray color. Thanks.
No it cannot be tinted.
I have a semi-new deck, installed last summer, that has completely grayed. I know a light sanding could bring some of the brown coloring back, but it sounds like this shouldn’t be done. Is this correct? When the deck gets wet from rain the brown coloring is still apparent, though lighter than original. From the reviews I am reading I would probably be using the Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparent Rustic Brown.
You should clean and brighten the wood and you will be fine.
Does the cleaning/brightening bring back some of the original color? Thanks!
Yes.
We put in a new pine treated deck last aug, we no want to stain I have been reading up as much as possible, but one says I don’t have to sand it and other says I do. Please help me out I am going crazy on what to do. Thank you
No need to sand. Clean and brighten the wood for prep.
thank you
Hello! I have a deck of 8 yrs that the previous owner painted with indoor latex paint. I finally got most of it removed with a pressure washer, and will be sanding it down this week to remove the little tiny bits that did not come off and prepare for staining. Its about 600 sq ft.
My questions are :
Do i need to clean and brighten it before I put on the stain? Ill probably be purchasing one of your semi solid options.
How many coats do you think..two? I live in Ontario, and most of the deck has full sun, with part of it being covered.
Thanks!
After a full sanding, you should clean and brighten for final prep. Just one coat of the AC semi-solids.
Does it work for cedar? I see that the tests were done on pressure treated pine.
Of course, the wood type does not matter.
The Armstrong Clarke stain is easy to apply but leaves an oily residue that ends up being tracked on to our hardwood floors—nasty! Also after two years the sun turns the linseed oils in the stain almost black and we now have to strip our decks, railings and vertical boards. We would not recommend this product again.
That would happen from over application most likely and could happen with any oil-based stain. We have been using the AC for 8 years on our customer’s decks and never have this problem.
WHICH COLOR WOULD YOU RECOMMEND FOR A TIGER WOOD DECK THAT HAS COMPLETE, STRONG AFTERNOON SUN EXPOSURE. IT’S RELATIVELY NEW (6 MONTHS) WITH A COAT OF PENFIN STAIN. THANKS
Strip and brighten to remove the Penofin. Try Amber or Mahogany colors.
Where are dealers for Armstrong Clarke Clark Stain in Edmonton?
None in Canada. You can have it shipped there.
Is it free Shipping, as it is a little costly for folks in Canada with the exchange rate.
I would need probably 5 gallons of walnut and 5 gallons of cedar and coud you please inform me does this peel?
It does not peel. It is a penetrating stain.
Best to ask them.
Is there a way to clean my redwood clear heart deck using a low psi pressure washer in between times when it is stained? It will be stained with an oil-based stain-either TWP 1500 series or Anderson Clark semi-transparent wood stain. The prep will be stripping, brightening and some sanding. I don’t want to harm the wood or the stain.
Thank you!
Not with a deck cleaner or pressure washer. Try warm water and a little bit of dish soap. Use a soft bristle brush, similar to the ones you use to wash a car.
My clear heart redwood deck is being stripped, brightened and sanded in some areas with additional cleaning and brightening after the sanding. It will then be stained with an oil-based semi-transparent stain-either TWP 1500 series or Anderson Clark semi-transparent wood stain. I live in California with many trees surrounding the deck and pine needles falling on the deck-not to mention the pollen. Is there a safe way to use a very low psi pressure washer to clean the deck in between the times when it is again prepped and stained? I need an efficient way to clean it without harming the redwood and the stain.Thank you!
Barbara
I just purchased AC semi-transparant Chestnut. two questions, I assume the wood needs to be completely dry, for example, it’s supposed to rain on Friday in southeast VA. I will probably have to wait until Sunday for complete dry? Secondly, how soon after application can it be walked on and rained on?
Thanks!
Yes, 48 hours after prep or heavy rain for the wood to dry. 8-12 hours for rain after applying. 24 hours for foot traffic.
Thanks. How long to wait to stain after using RAD Brightener?
48 hours.
It’s year 4 for my deck and it’s showing wear and tear. I feel this product is a great product! So easy to use, can apply in the sun and looks fabulous when finished.
Hello, what is your preferred oil-base semi-transparent stain? Armstrong Clark Deck Stain? Do you prefer it to Sikkens?
Regards,
JC Alten
We do not care for Sikkens. AC is a great oil-based stain.
Hi there. We have a Mahogany deck that we sand and finish every year. We end up trying a new product every year because pretty much every product that we try fails in some way. We used TWP last year and halfway through the summer, it was as if we hadn’t put anything on the deck. We did all of the steps–cleaner, brightener, etc. We do live on the water in Massachusetts, and the deck is in full sun. We are looking for a transparent product that won’t leave black gunk as the product starts to break down, and that has some staying power. We expect that we will continue to have to sand and treat every year, but we would hope that whatever we use would last for more than 2 or 3 months. Also, ideally, we would like a product that has some sheen to it vs. flat without any sheen, which seems to be the case with most products. Back in 2008, we had a product that was so beautiful–a clear product with no yellowing that left a sheen like an interior hardwood floor. I suspect that whatever it was that we used was no longer available due to emissions/EPA reg’s. Can you help–what product should we try this year?
Read this for some times when dealing with hardwoods such as yours: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/hardwood-deck-stain-tips-for-ipe/
Hi,
I installed my cedar fence about 3 months ago. I’m thinking of using Clark’s semitransparent cedar color. 1.What is the best way to apply? If using a brush and rags — what’s the best brush to use? If spraying what’s the best sprayer for this stain?
2. I have about 250 linear feet, 6 foot high horizontal fence — how many gallons do you think I would need?
3. Do I need to clean the wood before applying the stain, or is it okay because it’s only been up for 3 months?
By the way, wonderful website!
Thank you!
1. Use a stain pad or brush. Just one coat for new wood.
2. 3000 sq feet when doing both sides. 15-20 gallons.
3. Yes. Clean and brighten the wood.
Thank you for your response!
With regard to cleaning the fence, is there a product you recommend and do I need a pressure washer to rinse off?
Are there any brands you recommend over other with regard to stain pads and brushes?
In your professional opinion do you think this is the best stain for cedar?
Thanks again!
With the prep, try Restore A Deck Kits. Apply and pressure wash off.
Shurline pads work well. AC would work very well.
Thank you! My cedar fence has a smooth and rough side — do you think I should use a brush for the rough side?
Also, the head of the team that installed the fence told me not to use a pressure washer for the smooth side because it might make it rough — not sure what your thoughts are on that!
Thank you!
You can use a pressure washer at low pressure when using the prep kits. Stain pad or a stain brush will work.
Installing a new cedar fence in Washington, DC and thinking of using semitransparent Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain. Do you suggest 1 or 2 coats?
1 coat for new wood.
My husband and I have a Cumaru deck and Cumaru floor in a screened porch of a house at Lake Norman (western Piedmont NC). The Cumaru had been beautiful when new; the contractor had used Ipe Oil on it originally. After two years, it was time to treat the Cumaru deck. After much research, particularly impressed with your site, my husband and I cleaned, brightened, and stained our deck. It was a lot of work, and immediately we were disappointed. The semi-transparent Mahogany Armstrong Clark stain made the wood look cheaper with the color change and had no reflectivity. It looked as it needed oil and looked nothing like, or not as beautiful as the original Cumaru. We could compare easily by looking into the porch.
It’s time to redo the deck, and again, we’re researching what to use. Based on your reviews, Armstrong Clark seems the best. Is there anything we can do to revive the wood, make it look alive, and not so dried out as it appeared when we finished the job first? This time, we also need to treat the Cumaru in the screened porch. I’ve been tempted to try applying linseed oil, to provide the wood some oil.
I was unsuccessful in uploading a photo of the Cumaru in our screened porch (now 5 years after original installation, no treatment since). Attached is a photo of a section of the deck, two years after the mahogany stain. It was much smoother when completed but just as dry looking as in the photo.
Please advise. Thank you. We appreciate the research and replies to the posts so much.
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kits and then stain with the AC. Use Amber this time if you want less “red” and more of a rich wet look to the Cumaru. No need to apply linseed oil plus that will attract mildew as it will not contain a mildewcide like the AC.
Will the Amber look wetter and less dried out than the mahogany? Or, is it something that the Restore A Deck kit will do? Thanks so much for the prompt advice!
Not sure what you mean by wetter. Both are penetrating stains that will enhance the natural wood grain based on the color you choose. AC will not leave a shine.
The RAD will prep the wood.
Sorry, forgot to mention it is what is called sienna brown pressure treated wood
Hello. I wish to stain my deck, it is 1 yr old pressure treated lumber. I live in Ontario Canada. I love the look of the wood when it is wet, can you recommend a stain? Also please let me know how to properly prep the wood for best results? Thank you 😊
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I am looking for a concrete stain.Most of the reviews are not very promising.
This is a wood restoration site, not concrete.
Great Web Site
Question- I just purchased a house in Minnesota and they had a large deck just built in July of 18.
The floor boards are a treated pine and the railing is cedar. Should I be staining the cedar railing before winter to avoid it turning brown or Black? Temps are in the 50s. Sounds like the treated part I should wait until next summer.
Do it all in the Spring. Clean and brighten the wood first.
1 year old redwood, cleaned and brightened. Armstrong and clark amber color. Thanks for all your help
Looks awesome!
cedar fence rough. built about 11 months ago. no stain or anything applied yet. bare. Live in Fresno, Ca. Can you give me your best guess on the color of pic 1 taken from Armstrong Clark website? Guessing its either natural oak, rusted brown, or cedar. I cannot get samples because I’m facing a fine from my HOA and no time .Have to order blindly. The pic looks like smooth cedar and I’m assuming a higher grade wood than mine lol. Anyway, I’m not that picky, I just rather have the medium color like pic 1 or pic 2. Pic 2 is not from Armstrong Clark. Its just an example of a close match to what I would like to achieve. I do not like a fence that looks orange or yellow, but I also rather it look close to pic 1 or 2. Can you give me your best guess? If I use the AC, I only need 1 coat correct, because its the first time applying anything? If I did choose to do a second coat, how long would I need to wait, 1 or more days? Awesome site. I bet you get tired of repeated questions.
First one looks like semi-transparent cedar. The second one looks like Natural Tone. Wood colors will vary based on the type of wood that you have. Also age. Older wood is more absorbent and will have darker colors when stained. Typically two coats. Wet on wet application.