This post was updated on January 18, 2023
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Reviews
Here at DeckStainHelp.com, we take pride in the fact that we have become the Internet’s number-one reference for all things exterior wood and deck restoration related. Our customers who have used Armstrong Clark wood deck stain continue to be satisfied by the appearance and longevity of their deck stain projects. If you have used Armstrong Clark wood deck stain, we appreciate your input, so feel free to leave a comment below and pictures of your completed projects if you have them.
Newer is for Armstrong Clark is the Espresso Semi-Solid color, a rich deep brown tone that promises excellent UV resistance.
Armstrong Clark Deck Stain Review
Important Note: This is our 3rd Review of Armstrong Clark Stain.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain is a highly regarded oil based stain formulated with 5 generations of stain industry experience. Armstrong Clark is available in several formulas: Transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid colors.
Armstrong Clark Deck Stains are uniquely blended with drying and non-drying oils that isolate from each other during application. The non-drying oils penetrate the wood fibers and help rejuvenate and condition lost natural oils while the drying oils cure on the surface to lock in the conditioning oils and form a barrier of weather protection at the surface.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
Armstrong Clark Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 9
– The initial appearance of Armstrong Clark was a rich deep finish with naturally enhanced wood grain showing through the stain formula. Our choice of the Cedar Semi-Transparent color had a rich cedar tone.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Photos
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– Upon our 2-year inspection, Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain in the Cedar Semi-Transparent color produced above-average UV resistance. With the Armstrong Clark, the transparent colors would deliver slightly less UV shielding due to less pigment in the formula, while the semi-solid colors would have slightly better UV protection when in full sun.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
– No peeling was detected at the 2-year point. There was a slight wearing on the high traffic areas, around the furniture, and on the stairs.
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– Armstrong Clark Deck Stain can be purchased for $38.99-$45.99 depending on the opacity of the formula. In our test experience, Armstrong Clark had one of the best spread rates of any stain. We used a total of 3.5 gallons on our 600 square foot deck applied in one coat.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 8
– At 2 years we noticed some slight mold growth on top of the Armstrong Clark stain in some shaded areas. We did not detect any mildew spores within the stain as the mildew spores could be wiped away using a wet towel.
Ease of Application: 9
– The Armstrong Clark Deck Stain was super easy to apply and extremely user-friendly. Upon the manufacturer’s claims of being able to apply in direct sunlight, we tested our application on a 90-degree day in full sun. We were surprised the stain did not dry too quickly and applied evenly in those conditions, avoiding potential issues with Applying a Deck Stain in Full Sun. There were no excess dripping issues on the railings even though we applied using a pump sprayer and back wiped with a stain brush. The semi-transparent stain applied well using this method.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8.5
– Our 2-year test of Armstrong Clark Stain in Semi-Trans Cedar color did show signs of slight darkening from its original color. We figured this was likely due to a higher solid content of the formula. The AC is over 70% solids, containing both linseed and paraffin oils.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
– Because Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain penetrates well and does not overly darken it would be easy to recoat. A simple cleaning with a wood deck cleaner to remove dirt, grime, and mold spores would be plenty sufficient prior to reapplying.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.5
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain held up well at our 2-year test mark. Easy to apply and terrific coverage rates, raise Armstrong Clark to a high level. No peeling and only a slight darkening color shift were more than acceptable. Easy to maintain and prep prior to recoating. Armstrong Clark is definitely one of our top choices for a professional durable finish that lasts and is easy to work with in the future.
Product Information:
More Info: Armstrong Clark Stains
Cost: $49.99 per Gallon, $259.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia, Semi-Transparent Chestnut, Semi-Trans Natural Oak, Semi-Trans Black Walnut for Hardwoods
Application Temperature: 50-110 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 8-72 Hours, Depending on UV exposure and air temps
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: Under 50 VOCs. Compliant in All 50 States and Los Angeles Counties
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Semi-Transparent Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain Review Video
Deck Stain Help & Questions
As an article and comment contributor to the site, Scott has been around the pressure washing industry since attending college. In 1993 he started his first company called Oakland Pressure Wash specializing in exterior pressure washing and deck staining. That company evolved into OPW L.L.C. shortly thereafter concentrating more on exterior wood and deck restoration. Scott and his Deck Cleaning Michigan company have restored over 10,000 decks in the Metro Detroit area since the early years. He has become an authority in the deck restoration industry and has contributed to numerous wood restoration forums and informative sites.
All the products he suggests through this site are sold through online sites and in retail stores, allowing the consumer to choose their own means of purchase. Scott’s eCommerce sites do sell many top brands he endorses and if you appreciate any of the help he has offered then feel free to purchase from one of them.
I just stripped and stained my old redwood deck with Armstrong Clark Natural Oak semi trans and I’m happy with it. The directions on the can are great, but I’m surprised they don’t recommend pad application. Nonetheless, I used a pad and it worked really well,
Looks great!
Deck Stain Help,
We just wanted to give you a big thank you for all the prepping and staining advice. In the end we decided to go with Armstrong-Clark on account of some advantages it offers. We have a large south facing deck. The fact that we could put it on in the sun is a big plus as it is too hard to time a dry deck with an overcast day and no foreseeable ran here in the NW. The other big advantage of this product is that you let it sit and soak in for 24 hours instead of having to towel it off 30 to 60 minutes after application. This is a huge labor saver that keeps you from trying to towel up stain while you are still trying to get it on other areas. Within 24 hours it was all soaked in and looking nice. We used the Armstong-Clark Cedar Semi-Transparent on cedar deck boards. Thanks again for all the help!
Lee
Looks great!
I wanted to wait several years before posting this to be certain my recommendation was well founded and accurate.
It has now been seven years and I can confidently recommend the Armstrong Clark stain product for exterior, element exposed cedar. I am in Portland, OR and have cedar carriage garage doors.
The house was built in 6/2008. I had wanted a smooth furniture finish on the doors and so the painter applied numerous thin coats of lacquer to all exposed wood; mahogany front doors, cedar soffits, the cedar ceiling over the enclosed deck, and the garage carriage doors.
By 10/2013 the lacquer had peeled off the garage doors due to the direct southern exposure to sunlight, rain and snow but I will say all other exterior wood was and is still fine.
After researching and finding this site I removed the garage doors, stripped, brightened, properly sanded (going through each grit until 1200) and then applied the Armstrong product as four thin coats.
One gallon was sufficient for two doors (3 Car)
Throughout the years there have been no problems with the product or with any type of greying or fading of the wood.
Despite my best effort at sanding this is still not a smooth, glossy finish which what I desired but I see that that is not practical nor does the product purport to deliver that.
However due to the slight roughness on the surface I do find that pollen and dust stick to the doors so I just wipe them down monthly.
In considering all attributes that this site uses to rate stain products, the Armstrong is superior to the other products I have dealt with.
I helped a family member with his deck and he insisted on a using different product because of the price. What a foolish choice he made!
The cost of the stain is so minimal when compared to labor and time costs.
In 2020 I did give the garage doors a very light sanding and added a single coat before I sold my house.
It looked beautiful and I believe the doors were a contributing factor in selling the house, even during the slower housing market.
I highly recommend the product and I will use it again.
Extremely impressed with this stain. After a backbreaking job of sanding and brightening the cupped pressure treated 7’x28’ front porch and four 5’ wide steps, I was praying the finished product would be worth it. I wasn’t disappointed. A complete transformation. Very easy to apply, and huge bonus not having to time application to avoid the sun. Used two coats applied only about 20 mins apart but dries enough in that time to not have worries about leaving shoe imprints on previously coated surfaces. Finish was rich and smooth. After almost a year signs of wear are minimal, and only on steps used to drag bicycles and scooters up and down in addition to very heavy foot traffic.
Will recoat steps this summer and that’s it. Highly recommend,
Do you have any pictures to post?
I’m out of town for a couple of weeks but can get take some pictures when I return and post them at that time. I never think to do a before and after. If you had seen the before, you’d be amazed by the after.
Afters would be great. Thanks!
Cleaned cedar deck a few weeks ago but didn’t brighten. Unforeseen weather & then vacation got in between & the deck has grayed/bleached in sun. Can I still brighten at this point before staining? Putting Arm Clark semi trans Cedar for stain
Thank you
Redo the preo with both the cleaner and the brightener. Brightener alone will not work.
Can this product be sent to 80128 zip code (Littleton, Colorado)? Thank you.
Yes, it is allowed everywhere.
I have an 8 year old redwood pergola and just sanded the old home depot stain with 120 grit. Based on your recommendation, I just purchased RAD cleaner and brightener, as well as the Armstrong Clark Semi-transparent deck stain in redwood color. After sanding I saw your article that suggested using 60-80 grit. I haven’t cleaned or brightened yet. Should I go back and sand again with 80 grit before cleaning and brightening?
Yes, that would help.
Hello! I live on the beach in Hawaii and I just ordered brand new African mahogany garage doors. They still need to be sanded and stained/oiled. I am looking at AC semi-transparent oil in Chestnut. Hoping it will have enough UV protection and that it will hold up well with high sun, lots of rain, bugs, and strong winds that are full of salt. I also do not want to have to sand the garage doors or disassemble them in order to reapply the protective stain/oil when the time comes, even with all the salt in the air. The garage doors are west-facing, the ocean is on the north about 100 meters away, and the trade-winds usually come out of the northeast. Do you recommend the AC semi-transparent oil for this project? I’m a first timer at a project like this, so I really appreciate any guidance, thanks!
For hardwood, you would need one of the 3 Armstrong Clark Hardwood colors. Amber, Mahogany, or Black Walnut. It works very well. You can stain the wood after the doors are installed. You do not have to take them apart.
Thank you! I’ll choose on of those 3.
i have two old treated pine boards in pic, curious as to why it’s different colors when I first wet the boards or if it matters. They eventually all turn uniformly dark when soaked but want to make sure not an issue when staining. I did clean and brighten but will be doing it again as it’s been about 5 weeks.
Internally they are darker. They might stain darker as well. Might want to brighten it all again to see if that helps.
Hello! Been 2 years since I last stained with ArmClark. Needs a coat this year as it’s faded off & darkened in places. Will re-apply same stain…the semi, what should I do to prep again? I know I can’t just go right over old correct after cleaning?
Thank you
Use the Restore A Deck prep kits and then recoat.
Cleaner & brightener? Thank you
Yes.
About 8 years ago I stained my pool deck with Sherwin Williams semi-transparent water based stain and repeated the application a couple more times over the years. Every two years it was flaking and peeling so I just sanded the bad areas and cleaned the whole deck with a deck cleaner product. I got tired of doing this every two years so I switched to Benjamin Moore Arbor Coat solid color water based stain. Same thing is happening.
After reading many of your product reviews, I’m wondering if I could apply the Armstrong Clark product on the deck. I sanded the entire deck and got most of the old stain off, then cleaned it with a deck cleaner product.
Do you think I’d have better luck switching to the Armstrong Clark product or now that I’ve completely sanded the deck, maybe the Arbor Coat product would last longer?
Thanks,
Rick
You will have to fully remove the old stain before switching to the AC. AC is a far better stain then BM or SW products. It will not peel as it is a penetrating stain. If you want prep advice, post some pics of the deck.
Can I use this over Cabot Australian oil based?
Whenever you switch brands of semi-transparent stains, you need to remove the old coating first. You will need to strip and brighten for prep. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener kits.
have a redwood deck, trellis, and fences to be stained. All are at least 10 years old.
The original contractor I hired became discouraged that the original chemical stripper didn’t remove all the existing stain, and he essentially abandoned the job around mid-November. While he hadn’t requested a deposit and I’m thus not out any money, it’s taken a while to find a new contractor. The one I’d like to use just informed me that he won’t be able to begin the job until mid-January. He’s booked through the end of this month and then will be off for the holidays until mid-January.
Is it safe for the exposed wood to remain exposed for almost 2 months? While some stain remains in spots, much already has been removed by the earlier chemical stripping and also some later sanding.
If you advise the work should not be put off until mid-January, are there contractors who work in San Francisco that you’d recommend? The one I’d like to use who isn’t available until mid-January is Sammy Alfadel at Envirotek Restoration in San Mateo. Other contractors I’ve interviewed didn’t seem knowledgeable. For example one didn’t understand what 2 coats wet on wet meant; he thought it meant apply one coat, let it fully dry, and apply the second coat a day or two later. Another said there was no need to remove all the old stain, it would be fine to apply your semi-transparent over the remaining stain. Another wanted a blank check at $85.00/hour for any and all sanding he deemed necessary. All those were of course no-go’s.
Thanks for your advice and help, much appreciated!
Post some pics for prep advice. Your wood will be fine until you prep and stain in a few months or later.
A film-forming stain was applied to some pressure-treated wood on the sides of a deck. In preparation for restaining, is there a safe way to sand the film-forming stain off? We’d prefer not to use a stripper product and brightener. A contractor has used that already, but apparently missed most of the sides. Thanks.
See this for sanding tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
could I use semi solid over a previously treated deck (used pittsburgh semi solid,latex,a few years ago and it didn’t hold up very well)
No, you have to remove all of the old stain first.
I have a 10r old cedar deck with a clear natural stain on it applied three years ago. . I can hardly notice the stain exists anymore . 1. Can I go over this with RAD stain? 2. Can I cover it with a solid acrylic stain. 3. what solid acrylic stain do you recommend?
You do have to prep and then you can cover it with the RAD Solid Stain. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-solid-color-stain-review/
We have used AC semi-transparent cedar tone on our cedar deck the last 3 applications but have not been impressed with the durability of the stain, typically having to re-stain every year, though we usually only apply one coat. Our floorboards look especially bad. I have prepped with RAD cleaner/brighter every time. Was wondering if the AC semi-solid cedar tone would hold up better without hiding too much of the wood grain. Also, would we be able to apply it without stripping the old semi-transparent stain. Thank you
More pigment = longer UV protection so yes, a semi-transparent will always give longer results than a transparent color. Clean and brighen for prep.
Would I need to strip the semi-transparent stain to apply the semi-solid stain? Both AC products. Thanks
It would be best to strip.
Hi,
I bought the ARMSTRONG CLARK STAIN 1 GALLON for my new deck last summer. I applied two coats on it. I thought it would be the best exterior oil-based semi-transparent stain for deck wood. But it turns out that the surface became quite oily and during the winter of 2022, it started building dust which make the deck looks like black mold grew on it. In spring, we washed the deck thoroughly with soap and water, the “black mold” appearance looked better. But after couple months, the surface of the whole deck looked oily and very dirty again. I attached the picture here. Could you provide some advice on how to clean the surface and remove that oily kind of looking? Is it necessary to power wash the old paint and re-do the painting using different piant? Thank you so much!
Hi,
New wood and Armstrong Clark is only 1 coat (you applied 2 coats) after 3 or months of weathering and prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener. It seems this was not followed and that is why it is a little oily.
We would stick with the AC but strip and brighten for prep so you are starting over with a bare surface. Just do one coat.
Thank you ! I did weather and cleaned the new deck before applying the paint. so 2 coatings within one week might be the cause. what kind of product should I use to strip and brighten the surface if I want to re-do the painting? should I apply such product before power wash? and then sand the surface?
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener Kits. You use them while pressure washing. No need to sand.
location mountains NE TN. I have 2 decks se & nw sides of house. Nw under porch roof haven’t cleaned any & that side no mold…just dirt. SE 52′ with 30 under roof. Sun & weather hits the two uncovered ends hard. SE is 2 story deck with 20′ posts supporting deck roof, I am wanting to stay as close to clear & natural as possible and understand uv issues. PT pine 8 yrs old & never treated. Have PW all SE. Deck surface no issue but the posts had blackened prior to pw and boards not under roof more faded. Is AC transparent natural best choice as like color cleaned wood? Not sure how much color the cedar version imparts. Only online purchases possible & need to get everything sealed up…not want to order samples & then additional wait for full product.
oh, if use the transparent & down road want semi-transparent or semi-solid on deck surface can that be applied after cleaning or require stripping?
Try Restore A Deck in Natural, Armstrong in Natural, or TWP in Honeytone. As for recoating, if you switch brands and transparencies, you will need to strip and brighten for prep.
I’ve read your review on Flood but wondering if Pro Series CFW-UV5 with pentrol same? It is available locally. Natural tint base. Can just the base be used? If suitable product (tho possibly not the best) would their honeygold be close to the natural fresh pine color? I want stick with natural coloring or protection with natural graying. I only want an oil based product. Modified oil makes me bit nervous but you would know more.
If not Flood I will probably mail order Armstrong. Their application & timing seems easier than some. Especially when can’t always tell when thunderstorms might show up…less frequent this year but then its intense heat.
Thanks! This website is a wealth of information & I’ve looked at it over the years. I too noticed Cabot took a fall. Their product was only thing worked on our CA deck & mine here different area TN. Used semi-solids tho.
Modified oil means water based so we would not suggest it for you. Use the Armstrong, much better.
Scott, Your BIO suggests to use one of your endorsed eCommerce sites if we want to express our appreciation of you and the site. How does one do that?
For which product?
AC semi transparent stain and the restore-a-deck kit
Thanks for asking. I updated the Bio page to reflect some of the more popular sites for our eCommerce:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/author/administrator/
We just barely stained our deck with oil-based stain that resulted in a color failure. Can we apply Armstrong semi-solid to cover the undesired color? I really do not want to do any stripping so trying to figure out if I could possibly avoid any unnecessary work. Thank you for your advice. For your reference, the product we used – STORM SYSTEM Storm Protector Penetrating Sealer & Stain Protector – Deck Protector, Fence Protector, 1 Gallon, Hickory.
No, you have no choice but to remove and start over. You cannot apply another brand over the Storm Stain.
Thank you! Is that Storm Stain specifically or oil-based in general?
Whenever switching brands of semi-transparent stain, you should remove the prior coating. Does not matter the base.
Also, what would be the best removing solution in this case? I searched through the whole internet, so many opinions. I don’t want any hiccups anymore… Thank you for your help.
Strip and brighen for prep. Use the Restore A Deck Prep Kits.
Thank you so much!
I have a brand new deck that was finished about a month ago. The sun beats down on it mercilessly (plus georgia humidity) and after only 30 days it’s totally dry and ready to be stained. It looks like for a new, pressure treated pine deck Armstrong Clark is the way to go. Im likely going to go with transparent so I can enjoy the color of new wood. For a new deck would this brand be your top recommendation as well?
(Also, I’m so glad I did more research and found your site as I was going to go with Behr Premium and that looks like it would have been a horrible choice from the reviews.)
See here about new wood if you have not see it yet: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
The AC stains would work well.
I just applied AC semi-solid (espresso) onto my ~10yo redwood deck in Northern CA. Previously there was unknown old stain that was very uneven due to wear and some areas of the deck being more sun exposed than others. I prepped with RAD stripper and brightener with good results in removing all the old stain. After brightening some of the individual deck boards were much lighter in color than others (Pic 1) – and to my surprise this persisted even after the stain was applied (Pic 2, 36hrs after staining). Since the boards were different colors after prepping I assume that the difference is just due to them being from different lots of wood with different characteristics. I also noticed that the more sun-exposed boards in the center of the deck generally ended up lighter post-staining.
I had amazing results with this stain previously, getting a much older deck to a really nice uniform dark brown color, so I was surprised that this deck ended up with uneven coloration between the boards.
Is there anything I can do to achieve a more even look, or something I could have done different during the process?
The final color is always based on the wood’s age, type, and porosity. The one in the top left actually looks like a new board that was replaced. Same with the two in the top right. This is not a stain issue but the reality of using a deck (unless a solid opaque) stain.
Can this transparent stain be applied with a sorayer
No, slightly too thick.
Maintenance question.
I installed a new IPE deck 12 months ago. Let it sit unfinished for a year.
3 days ago, used the RAD cleaner and then brightener. Let it dry 48 hrs.
Yesterday I stained it with AC Amber. Looks good.
I plan to add a fresh coat of AC Amber every year for maintenance. Trying to make it last and look good.
The AC instructions say to “wash with mild scrubbing using 1 part bleach to 3 parts water with a max of 1/4 cups liquid dishwashing soap per gal. Then light pressure wash”.
Questions:
1. The cleaning sounds simple, and I like it. Is this cleaning method preferable over the RAD cleaning step 1 cleaner?
2. If instead, you recommend the RAD cleaner over the AC can instructions, do you recommend using the brightener also? Or just the cleaner step 1. I ask because on my front porch, I cleaned + brightened and stained with RAD over cedar last year. This year I cleaned and brightened before adding a maintenance coat of RAD stain and the cleaner/brightener combo removed a LOT of the previous years RAD stain. Seemed a bit aggressive to me.
3. I have one corner of the deck that can get more shade and hold moisture a little more. If this area starts to have issues with mold or dirt, (as was on the previous deck boards) THEN should I use the RAD cleaner AND BRIGHTENER? Or as long as the stain is still good only the AC cleaning instruction method or RAD Step 1 only?
Appreciate your help.
1. Use the RAD prep, bleach is bad for wood and users.
2. Use both to be safe. It is okay if the old stain comes off. Gives you a better surface to apply to.
3. Use both.
Any idea what caused this yellowing all over the deck boards?
IPE deck, installed 12 months ago. I let it weather for 12 months. Boards were a pretty even and consistent gray, but beautiful IPE color when wet. A week ago I used RAD 1&2. Gray was then a bit lighter, but still pretty even and consistent. Feel like I did a really good job getting all of the cleaner and brightened off. I let that dry for 2 days. Looked good. Applied AC Amber. Looked great for 4 days.
Then when it rained, many of the boards seemed to leach yellow. But not all boards. I can slide my shoe on the good looking boards smoothly like there is a thin dry oil coating on them. But the yellow boards are much dryer so shoe doesn’t slide the same.
Everything looked good thru all steps, and then out of the blue, this.
Ideas?
Not sure but it is not related to the prep or the stain. Does the yellow go away if wet with water or does it still show?
It does go away when wet. Other than water beading up, the color looks the same as when it was wet BEFORE the stain was applied.
But when it’s dry it looks terrible.
Nobody has ever seen this?
It may just need a very light coat to even it out.
And you think that’s ok to do on those certain boards over the existing stain, no prep?
Just want to confirm the best way.
Thank you!
Do a test board to see how it dries and make sure it fixes the issue. It should not have to be prepped.
Question:
California
Lots of sun, SE side of house, though partial oak shade
Redwood, circa 1990’s, good condition.
No significant mold/mildew.
Wanting a return unpigmented natural wood penetrating oil “stain,” in September 2020 I vigorously stripped (including some hand sanding) entire deck of old alkyd semi-transparent redwood stain and more recent redwood oil stain with sodium hydroxide, then neutralized with oxalic acid, followed by (at your suggestion) TWP 1500, non-pigmented. Two winters have passed—albeit with less than normal rain—and I am inclined to re-treat horizontal only, but after the previous exhausting/toxic effort, I am not willing to do more stripping or sanding work. As I recall, the TWP instructions were a little more restrictive than others, i.e. “wet-on-wet” procedure and two coat requirement, though that may not have reflected an actual difference in their product; thus, I was thinking of using Armstrong Clark this time, presumably after the two step cleaning/brightening with RAD. I still want to avoid any unnatural color, because I like the color of the deck without any red or yellow tint, despite the understanding that less color is less protection.
Armstrong Clark says I don’t need to strip Armstrong Clark, but do I need to strip the TWP before applying Armstrong Clark?
If switching brands you have to strip and brighten for prep. If sticking with the same stain brand and color, then just clean and brighten for prep.
The siding on my home is redwood. Never been painted. In the past 25 years I have always used Superdeck 1910 an oil based transparent stain/sealer. I refinish it every 4 years by stripping/cleaning, brightening and reapplying a new coat of finish. Now, with Sherwin Williams buying out Superdeck and eliminating the oil based product that I used for so long, I would like to get your opinion on what product I should now use. (I will not be using Superdeck as I believe it is now pretty much junk!)
what’s your opinion?
The Armstrong Clark would be a great choice to replace the old oil-based Super Deck. Make sure to strip and brighen again for prep.
I like the armstrong products I live in Oakdale and they are mde right up the road in Tuolumne county….but I think I mad a mistake ..I used the semi solid on an adirondack chair I built….I understnd now that it was a no no…that it will stain the clothing….is there a sealer I could coat so the clothing staining wont happen..also can I 2 coat….(doug fir and pine)
Sorry but no, you cannot seal over a deck stain or topcoat over it.
Applied a coat of AC driftwood. Looks great. One third were older never stained wood, two thirds 1 year old weathered. Obviously there is expected difference. I did not apply a second coat immediately, as it seemed still wet after 30 minutes. Anyways, it’s been ~3 weeks. Is it too late now to put another coat on for appearance sake?
Thanks
Adding another coat will not help the appearance at this point and may not take. Best to lightly clean and add another coat next year if you want.
I just finished staining my cedar deck with AC semi trans natural oak. With rainy days in the forecast for the next week, I took the risk of staining in a rain free weather window when we have 60% chance (unfortunately some heavier rain) after 24 hrs but before 48 hrs of the stain curing. Fortunately the verticals have had 48-72 hrs, but I could not get to the horizontals sooner.
I have plenty of stain to do a second coat (and was hoping to do a second coat anyway since the stain absorbed into the wood before 60 minutes as AC mentions). Well, I suppose I will just cross my fingers and take pictures afterwards! In reading about a 72 hr cure time now, I am a bit worried — but we shall see!?
You will be fine. AC can take a rain within 4-8 hours after applying.
Thank you! That is music to my ears — the deck is looking great and I have this website to thank for all the awesome guidance!
Am I correct that I can try a second coat since the stain soaked in within 30 to 60 min of application? My cedar deck is 3 years old and was fully cleaned/brightened and took the first coat very well (no excess to wipe). I don’t want to over apply — when I try in a week to do a second coat, how do I test to make sure I’m not over applying? I am also assuming brushing like I did for the firat coat is best approach? Thanks again!
Just do the one coat, you will be fine. You can always do a light wash and apply another coat in 12-24 months or as needed.
Our home was built in 1993, surrounded by decks, so huge job to maintain. We have most recently used Sikkens Cetol SRD, but since we live in NYS, we understand the VOC regulations have changed that product for the worse. Have 1200 SQ of deck so would like to get this right (and durability is a huge concern since so much deck). We are considering Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparent.
Questions: 1)Our contractor is unfamiliar with this product but willing to use. He is planning to strip decks completely… does he need to use Armstrong Clark product to do this (Stripper/Brightener) or will other typical products work? Should we plan on 1 or 2 coats? 3) Any other thoughts with an older deck that has been maintained but showing some wear. Another product to consider? Wood is pressure treated (Pine, I assume).
Thanks!!!
-Any stripper should work. Typically two coats.
-The AC would work well for this deck.
I stained my cedar deck with AC semi-trans natural oak in September 2019. I’d like to give it a refresher with the same product. My understanding is that I can use RAD clean, light pressure wash and then stain. There are some areas that have worn a little more from heavier foot traffic. I am getting mixed messages on whether I need to brighten. Including pics just in case.
We would brighten this since you are down to bare wood in spots.
I am a painting contractor in PNW on the coast. What is the best siding/deck stain for the PNW environment? Currently we are using super deck and woodscapes, but would like to try out something different. Thank you
Armstrong Clark would work very well for you. Another option is the TWP stains.
TWP stains?
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-wood-stains
We used Super Deck semi transparent stain on our cedar decks in the past, we sanded, and cleaned the decks ready to change to Armstrong Clark semi transparent stain, why do you have to use a brightener before the stain goes on?
To neutralize the cleaner and open up the pores of the wood.
Stained an ipe wood deck and teak furniture with the product about a month ago. Still smelling odor from the product. When should it dissipate?
Typically goes away within a week but can linger if less rain or airflow. You can try to dissipate it but washing with water or some kid of deoderizer.
That is dirt from your surround yard/trees. Not sure if using a water based stain will make a difference as it will still get dirty. You can try but if you do switch, make sure to strip and brighten for prep. Use the RAD.
Maybe, it certainly doesn’t clean off and it occurred on upright surfaces to a lesser extent. Could it have been overapplication that caused the severe darkening? I already have the RAD stripper/booster and brightener, just deciding on the stain – RAD seems to be a front runner.
It could be that you over applied it the dirt from the area “stuck” to the stain.
Great information on this site. We have a large batu deck that was installed in 2015, the previous owner chose not to treat the deck. We are now in the process of sanding the deck and plan to use Armstrong Clark Mahagony stain. Do you recommend any preperation for the stain after the sanding is completed?
Yes, clean and brighten for prep after sanding. This helps to open up the pores of the wood.
Thank you for the fast response. Is there a specific product recommended for “clean and brighten”?
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
I am a first time user of this product.I have already cleaned the deck according to your reccomendation. How many days after appling semi-solid stain, should I allow for drying. From the product information, it
indicates only one coat is necessary for semi-solid. My deck is old, should I apply 2 coats?
Trying to plan this project according to weather forecast.
One coat is fine. Drying can take a day or two to full cure, sometimes longer.
I installed a new cedar deck last spring and used Ready Seal, natural seal 512-5 and found after one year of Toronto winter that the sealer is peeling all over the 500 sq.ft deck. I don’t understand why. Please help and provide some guidance on how to reapply with RS or go to another brand. Much appreciated.
RS Stinks. Strip and brighten for prep and then try a better stain like the Armstrong Clark.
How do you recommend prepping the cedar surface? I’m looking for a natural cedar look and does Armstrong Clark has something similar in color?
thanks
Strip and brighten: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Your stain must be tinted for UV protection and cannot be clear. Picture is the AC Natural color that is lightly tinted.
We just cleaned and brightened our redwood deck which was stained 3 yrs ago with TWP1500. Going with Armstrong Clark Semi transparent Light Oak this time. We’re noticing that there are many holes and hollows in the wood. In a few hollows, some of the wood seems loose and can be pulled off by hand.
Just prep and stain as is as a hardener will not work and fillers do not blend with a semi-transparent stain.
BTW, you should strip and brighten when switching brands of stain. The TWP should be removed fully before using the AC.