Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck? 4.8/5 (73)

This post was updated on March 4, 2024

What is the Best Deck Deck Prep 2024

See our Deck Stain Facts section with over 150 simple Q&A articles that answer all the questions that you have regarding deck staining, cleaning, and prep.

This has become one of our most popular articles on DeckStainhelp.com. In this article, we help by guiding consumers in finding the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article with some input and pictures from you will help determine the proper way to prep.

Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?

Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?

Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?

This is the 2nd most popular question that deck owners have on this website with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain? Prepping your deck is the single most important aspect of the deck restoration process and will determine your final appearance and the stain’s longevity. Not prepping properly can lead to premature stain failure and overall poor appearance results. How to best prep your deck could vary on many scenarios:

  • Is the wood new or old?
  • Does it have a previous coating on the wood?
  • Are you re-coating with the same brand and colors as last time?
  • When was the last time it was stained?
  • What type of stain was it coated with before?

A better way to approach the deck prepping question is to ask, “what is the best deck prep for my deck due to its current condition and age?”

The three main ways to prep a deck are:

  • Deck Cleaning followed by Wood Brightening
  • Deck Stripping followed by Wood Brightening
  • Power Sanding
  • Or a combination of the above

How To Strip A Deck Stain Video

What is the Best Deck way to Prep My Deck?

We will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers to these questions, we will be able to provide help as to the best way to prep your deck before applying a deck stain.

  1. New Wood or Older Wood?
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
  3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
  4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
  5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues?
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
  8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.

Post a comment below and make sure to include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional information that would be useful!

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Ask in the Comment Section Below. Include Answers to the above Questions.

Please Rate This. You may also post comments or ask questions below.

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Matt
Matt
2 days ago

Hey Scott, I have stripped and sanded my PT deck and ready to stain with TWP semi solid once I finish with brightener. No rain for next week. My concern is the temps this week are in the low 60’s and fall into the mid to low 30’s in the evening. Then nothing but rain in the forecast the rest of March. I do not believe the evening temps are good for the cure time. Should I wait on using the brightener until I have a clear time when I can stain? Thanks

Matt
Matt
2 days ago

Thanks! Did the brightener today and will wait 48 hrs. Check the weather/temps and get it done.

Marcus Sucro
Marcus Sucro
16 days ago

Hi, I’ve been asked to redo a large fairly new deck in the beach area of SoCal. The deck was brand new about 2 years ago and the builder used Behr semi-transparent. It has failed significantly (badly peeling on most horizontal areas and mostly mildew on vertical). I’m planning to strip and neutralize but need your advice on what semi-transparent to use to hold up the best in our high UV but also high moisture/humidity environment.

Link to Google photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/KrdRh5gBQNEFrkpE8

Josh M
Josh M
2 months ago

Hi Scott, I’m really enjoying your site and the great work that you do. I’m working to restore a Redwood deck in Los Angeles, the stain was applied in May 2021, I’m not sure what kind it was but I’ve included a close up picture from May 2022, it had worsened from this time to now. We have already sanded all the flat surfaces, but not the vertical 4×4 posts or vertical aspects or underneath aspects of the railings. Was thinking to use RAD products, please let me know what you’d recommend for prep and stain. In particular, do you think I need to use stain stripping, or can I just use cleaner and power wash. Thanks!

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Josh M
Josh M
2 months ago

Thank you for the quick response! Is RAD Stain Stripper sufficient or do I need the Paint version? Also, How should I think about the decision to go with RAD (water-based) vs Armstrong (oil-based)? Thank you!

JoshM
JoshM
2 months ago

Here’s a pic of the unstripped vertical. Let me know what you think! Also, let me know how to think about whether I should do an oil-based Armstrong or the water-based rad product. Thank you!

Josh M
Josh M
2 months ago

Try this

Josh M
Josh M
2 months ago

I cropped it to reduce file size, thanks!

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Mike
Mike
4 months ago

Hello – I have new (6 months) Cedar posts and Cedar Tone wood used for a privacy (slats). I will be staining using a semi-transparent (per your guidance) to protect mostly from UV. don’t want color change. My question – I will use a cleaner but is a brightener necessary? I decided to use Defy Ultra for the stain.

Planconcept
Planconcept
5 months ago

I have white cedar siding on my home in New England that is about 8 years old. In 2018/2019, you recommended TWP 1500, clear, as well as another product that was water-based that I can’t recall. I went with the TWP, which did a nice job of repelling water. However, there is a great deal of mold/mildew. I would like to go with another product (that is clear. I like the look of the natural wood) that minimizes the mildew, etc. What do you recommend?

Bill
Bill
5 months ago

Yes that isn’t a problem. I actually prefer some graying.

Bill
Bill
5 months ago

Thanks for the quick reply

Edna
Edna
5 months ago

Hello,
I would love your advice on my small deck.
-It is only 6 months old.
-I used Olympic Waterguard. 1 coat 3 weeks after installation & then another coat about a month ago because it looked splotchy & faded.
-There are also cracks running along a couple of the boards.

I am looking at the RAD products as I would like to protect it and gave a richer color.

I took a photo of the underside of the deck, which still has the nice color.

-Should I use the RAD stripper & brightener?
-Can I fill in the cracks with wood putty?
-If I use the RAD stain what color is closest to the original redwood?

Thank you so much!

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Tai
Tai
5 months ago

Hi and thanks for such an informative site! We have an IPE fence that is approximately 1 year old, which we are looking to re-stain as the IPE Oil stain has faded considerably since the fence was constructed. I would consider re-using IPE Oil, although going with a lower VOC product (like RAD or Armstrong Clark) is appealing if they perform similarly since the IPE Oil made our whole property stink for a week and I don’t relish the idea of experiencing that again (especially if we re-stain annually).

Assuming we switch products, what prep would your recommend for our fence? The surface is somewhat rough to the touch and the painters we have spoken with have suggested sanding it as part of the prep process. Would the process differ if we went with an oil based vs a water based stain? How would the process differ if we decide to use IPE Oil again instead of switching stains? Thanks!

1. New Wood or Older Wood? ~1 yr old IPE
2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes
3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Undecided
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? IPE Oil, applied prior to construction
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil Based, Semi-Transparent
6. Mold or Mildew Issues? No
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Time and sun exposure? My understanding is none of these stains really last more than about a year on IPE, so the current state is not unexpected. I don’t actually think it looks that bad, but it is much lighter than it originally was and I assume we should re-stain it now rather than waiting.

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Terry
Terry
6 months ago

Thanks for the informative site! Question about re finishing a deck that has large areas of old red (not black)rust stains from an irrigation system that had high iron content in water. (See pic)
Answers to your questions:
1. Old wood that is in good condition except for graying and red rust stain
2 – 6 Deck has been treated (not apparently stained) previously but with what is unknown. (A simple water seal?) It has a natural finish and that’s what the owner would like to preserve.
6. No mold, mildew issues
7. Just showing the effects of UV exposure I think.

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Lauren
Lauren
6 months ago

Not sure how to prep or stain this Wisconsin deck. We liked the color and transparency of the first stain we put on after moving in (Behr Semi-Transparent Waterproofing Wood Stain, Cedar Naturaltone #3533), but it was hard to put on evenly. The second time the big box store sold us the “same product” in a different brand. It was more opaque, too orange, and didn’t last as well. But it did seem to keep the mildew at bay much better.

Questions:
What do we need to do to prep the deck? Deck cleaner only, or deck cleaner and stripper?
Do you have a suggestion for stain type and/or brand? Looking to keep roughly similar color, but more transparent if it won’t look weird over current patchy stain.

  1. New Wood or Older Wood? Old wood
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes, Cabot Semi-Solid Stain + Sealer, Rustic Cedar, Neutral Base
  3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Not sure about brand. Looking for semi-transparent.
  4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Cabot Semi-Solid Stain + Sealer, Rustic Cedar, Neutral Base
  5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Oil, semi-solid
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues? Very mild
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Stain coming off in high-traffic locations.
  8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.

First picture is more representative. Second two pictures are high traffic areas. Last picture is the last stain used.

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Sophie
Sophie
6 months ago

Hi Scott, I love your website, it was a huge help when we had to recover our new deck only 1 year after we stained it using a bad product (recommended by the contractor who built our deck).
After this debacle, we sanded the deck to remove all the flaky stain and applied the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit. Then used TWP 1500 Series in May 2019 and now I really should be applying a maintenance coat ( it probably should have been done last year). I want to use the same brand/same product/same color but I am not sure about the preparation. I was planning on only sanding with 60 grit sand paper and then rinse it with water? Please advise: is the sanding unnecessary and I should only use a deck cleaner + brightener? Or does the old coat need to be sanded because of the UV greying?
To answer your questions:

  1. New Wood or Older Wood? Deck is pressure treated pine – 7 years old
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes
  3. I am Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color
  4. TWP1500 Rustic color
  5. Semi-transparent Oil-Based 
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues? Not really
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? UV greying
  8. Please see pictures attached
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Sophie
Sophie
6 months ago

Thanks a lot for your quick answer. I do not have a pressure washer. If I apply the Gemini cleaner and brush it with a deck scrub brush, would that ok too?

Sherri
Sherri
7 months ago

Hi Scott! So glad I found your website! I have read through a lot and watched the youtube videos. I have a few questions to make sure I am on the right path.

We bought new cedar for our deck 3 years ago. It is cedar select tight 1 knot. “Our guy” stained it with Olympic Maximum stain and seal, espresso color. One coat. He is excellent in all the work he does!!! He has done everything for us. The deck staining, though, just didn’t turn out nice at all. He said he wasn’t sure what went wrong. I’ve been reading about prepping new wood, and not sure he did that.

Anyway, I want our deck to look better and enjoy it. It is a wrap around porch with an extension for bbq, dining, sitting, etc. It is all completely covered, except the steps up front and part of the side of the extension. I’m attaching pictures. :)

1. Since it is espresso color (dark), do you think the Restore a Deck stripper and wood brightener are enough to have a clean surface to start all over?

2. What do you think went wrong (picture 2 specifically) with the initial application? It never looked even (they sprayed and went over to with a pad). It had this soapy residue that hasn’t ever seemed to come off even with several sweeps, scrubs, pressure washing. It looks and feels dull. Not at all what we were expecting.

3. Picture 4 shows the drips. Should we focus on removing these as well? We plan to restain with a darkish color again. Is this a normal look, or do people hand paint them, etc?

4. Picture 3 shows area exposed to the sun. It completely strips off with a pressure washer, even softly and from a distance. Is this normal for stain? If I pressure wash the house, it does not strip the paint in the slightest.

We are in the Seattle area.

Thank you for any help!!!

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Sherri
Sherri
7 months ago

Thank you so, incredibly, much for your thorough reply!!! I am have asked at several stores and have not received such clear advice as yours. I really appreciate it!!!

Sam Balda
Sam Balda
7 months ago

Hi Scott, we jut bought a house with a 16-year old 24’x12′ deck that’s in fairly good condition but needs some work. The stain is partially faded and the wood is rough and cracked/splintering. There’s even mushrooms growing out of a few boards! I am planning to pressure wash and sand before staining, but was wondering if I still needed cleaner, stripper, or brightener if I am sanding everything down. Thank you for your help!

Older wood (from 2007)
Current Coating: Partially stained
Switching Brands of Deck Stain
Deck Stain Brand previously used: unknown
Current Deck Stain Type: Semi-solid, I think.
Mold or Mildew Issues: Black mildew under railings, orange fungus growing out of some boards
Reason for Previous Stain Failure: Foot traffic, lack of maintenance

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Richard DeLuna
Richard DeLuna
7 months ago

Hi, I have a cedar deck about a year old that was finished with a light coat of TWP 100 series. After a monumental winter up here in Tahoe, there are some black spots or rings from a couple chairs that were left out. Can I clean, Brighten, then re-stain? Will the cleaner take out some of the black marks from the chair sitting in one spot?

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Glorie
Glorie
7 months ago

Hello- Help. We have used RAD products before for our covered front porch (with semi-translucent stain) and had success. Today we are using the regular RAD stripper and brightener for the floor of the back deck (not doing the uprights and top rails). However, the old stain is not really coming off easily and I think maybe I was not attentive to the old stain- and we needed the heavier duty RAD PAINT STRIP AND SOLID STAIN STRIPPING GEL? That is, our old stain was a solid stain vs. semi-translucent? some pictures are attached. The pictures show how it is looking after a pass with the power washer and some hands and knees scrubbing…As you can see in the pictures, there is still persistent stain in the grooves and some is quite thick still in some areas- softened a bit but still stubbornly attached to the wood. The one picture w/the flooring near the house wall was not yet power washed, but that area experienced little wear and the stain/paint is quite thick there.. . The thing is I feel like I’m scrubbing too much and raising the nap of the wood (if that is the right word)…

}New or Older Wood – deck floor maybe 10 years old (we are not doing the uprights or top rails) – but last stained about 5 years ago
}Deck have current coating – yes – I think it is a solid stain (but my records said semi-translucent duck back velspar?) done about 5 years ago
}Switching brands? Yes – we have purchased and want to use the RAD semitranslucent cottage grey
}Current deck stain type – again – I am not sure; my old records that it is semi-translucent duckback velspar tinted – not sure if oil or latex based…
}Mold or mildew: some not much
}Reason for stain failure: age?

Questions:

  1. Should we purchase the RAD PAINT STRIP AND SOLID STAIN STRIPPING GEL, or just keep on doing several treatments of the regular RAD stripper and when it’s as good as we can get it, do the brightener?
  2. Also, are there any cautions regarding use of power washer and scrubbing so as to not damage the wood – or maybe we should also sand after (or before) the brightening step?
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Glorie
Glorie
7 months ago

Thank you, Sir! Off to order now!

Shannon
Shannon
7 months ago

New Wood or Older Wood? This deck has 2 parts. The first part is estimated at 32 years old and the second part is currently 21 years old. The newer deck is a ramp and off the main deck. Seen to the Right of the one image attached to the old one. First 2 images are of the original deck with the stain remanence on it. Also the stairs off the main deck are less than 10 years old.

Does the Deck have a Current Coating? The older deck has a stain. Looks solid. Some has not come off hence the sanding you can see in the pic. The newer portion of the deck(21yrs) has no stain. And has been pressure washed multiple times.

Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?it would be a different brand likely. I used Olympic transparent on the back deck and want to do so on the front. I quite like it as the back deck only needs a maintenance coat. Because there are 2 types of wood here I’m thinking honey ish colour so it’s not so obvious that it’s different woods. I know Olympic is a newer brand and so it would not likely be the same.

Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
unknown

What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
unknown really

Mold or Mildew Issues? The newer part does have some mold/mildew not sure which even after pressure washing

Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Dunno my guess is it’s old. Didn’t matter cause the newer deck needs to be done be nice if it semi matches which it won’t completely cause I think it’s different wood. Newer deck was pressure treated wood.

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Shannon
Shannon
7 months ago

Thanks for the quick reply. I am defiantly sanding all of the old deck as that’s already begun and it won’t look nice if I stop. The newer part I could not sand but it has been pressure washed multiple times by my husband and never completed, so the wood is all torn up. Like sliver worthy and no stain and sealant can fix that. I did get 2 slivers today. Is it not a good idea to get rid of the not so nice wood?

Or will the clean and brighten do this for the wood?

With my idea I’d going honey, will the clean and brighten get rid of the grey and dingy?

Chris Wittrock
Chris Wittrock
7 months ago
  1. New Wood or Older Wood? Not sure of age of wood. Probably less than 7 years old
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes
  3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Switching brands, applying different type of deck coating
  4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Unknown, see label in picture
  5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? I think it is water based latex paint or stain
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues? Not that I can tell
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? I don’t know, probably not prepped properly and not good quality product.
  8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.

How best can I prep this deck to be stained with oil based product?

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Sebastian
Sebastian
7 months ago

Hello, I recently (1week ago) built and finished my deck and stained it with Behr Transparent penetrating oil wood finish. I stained it and of course it started raining very heavy after 8-9hrs. The wood I used is pressure treated cedar. What should I do now? Reapplying the stain or should I sand it and wash it and then reapply the stain or should I strip it? Thank you!

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Elliot
Elliot
7 months ago

Hello,

We have a new deck that was just stained with semi-transparent oil based Benjamin Moore stain. This took two days. It started raining on the second day and there are a few white spots starting to form in certain places.

Questions are as follows:

  1. Are the white spots that started to form an indicator that the entire surface needs to be redone or just those areas?
  2. If water did get under the stain, is it now trapped beneath the stain that can cause issues? If yes, I imagine all needs to be redone?
  3. If all needs to be redone, which method is preferred to remove the stain yet not negatively affect the wood? Stain stripper, light sanding etc….?

Any other advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Scott Matson
Scott Matson
7 months ago

I have an ipe deck that has been allowed to grey. Every year or two I give it a light power wash to keep it clean. I’m considering using RAD to bring it back and then stain it with RAD. What color should I use? How often will I have to either use Step1/2 and reapply? Or, can I just reapply every year or two?

Flynn
Flynn
7 months ago

A company just refinished my deck by power washing, sanding and staining with an oil-based transparent redwood stain. (Deck is redwood and was built in 2015.) Several boards are blotchy, and the company says it’s the boards–not anything they did. From what I’m reading here, I don’t totally believe them. I’ve attached a couple of photos and would appreciate your advice on how to get this fixed. Thank you.

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Flynn
Flynn
7 months ago

Thank you–I greatly appreciate your fast reply on this. Any suggestions on how to prevent this next time?

Yaroslav Fenich
Yaroslav Fenich
7 months ago

New Wood or Older Wood?
I believe older wood
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Yes
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Switching brands
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
Unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
I have no idea
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Not that I see
Reason for Previous Stain Failure
Unknown
How should I go about removing this old stain to get it ready for new?

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Yaroslav Fenich
Yaroslav Fenich
7 months ago

I can’t. Its not my personal deck, but it seems like that’s just the original wood underneath(of course you’re the professional here). Unfortunately the owner of the deck knows just about nothing about it.

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Ben
Ben
8 months ago

Looking to restore as best I can, an older mahogany deck built around 2000, unsure of previous treatments. Looking for how to prep(read many articles still unsure about stripper and sanding) sanding could be tricky as some boards aren’t completely level and very large deck. Also looking what stain with. Mostly full sun. Thank you in advance!

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Tom
Tom
8 months ago

Is the wood new or old? Mostly old (with a few new boards). House (and possibly deck) built in 1995.

Does it have a previous coating on the wood? Yes

Are you re-coating with the same brand and colors as last time? Unknown

When was the last time it was stained? Unknown

What type of stain was it coated with before? Unknown

What is the best deck prep for my deck due to its current condition and age? Do we stain or paint? Looking to go darker color to more easily hide any future mildew

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Philip Wall
Philip Wall
8 months ago

Older Redwood, 15 years. Previously had Semi-transparent stain. I used stripper, then brightener, powerwash, then I sanded it with 50 then 80 grit. I thought I was ready to stain after the sanding, but I read in the article, “Why sanding a deck can be an issue” that

“A good wood stain finish always starts with the correct sanding preparation. It is important, to begin with, a power sander …no more than 60 or 80 grit paper.

The next step is to clean the wood thoroughly after the sanding. Deck cleaners, also known as deck wash are used to lift dirt and unsightly mildew which accumulates over time”

This is suggesting ANOTHER deck cleaner AND brightener treatment AFTER my sanding? is this correct? Thank you!

Philip Wall
Philip Wall
8 months ago

Thank you, the cleaner/brightener won’t make the wood too “fuzzy” (the main reason I started the sanding in the first place)?

Also, see below, I read this on another forum, but I’ve never heard of applying a “sealer” over a stain?

Bottom line: A combined stain-and-sealant product offers durable moisture and UV protection with little downside. Short of this 2-in-1-type product, you can always apply a stain to the deck and, after 48 hours, apply sealant to achieve a similar level of protection.

Anthony
Anthony
8 months ago

Hello,

I have a western red cedar deck that’s about 8 years old now. Maybe 6 years ago I switched to TWP 101 and have re-applied it at least twice. I want to switch to a water-based product, namely RAD’s Semi-Transparent. The order of steps I plan to take are 1) strip using RAD Stripper and Thickening Gel, 2) do some orbital spot sanding if need be, 3) brighten after stripping and sanding with RAD Brightener, 4) apply new stain. Is this the correct order steps?

Dan
Dan
8 months ago

New Wood or Older Wood?
– OLDER
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
– YES
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
– MAINTENANCE COAT / RECOAT DUE TO THE DECK BEING IN REALLY ROUGH SHAPE
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
– BEHR 501 – CEDAR NATURALTONE EXTERIOR WOOD TRANSPARENT FINISH
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
– 100% WATER ACRYLLIC WATER BASED TRANSPARENT
Mold or Mildew Issues?
– SOME, NOT TERRIBLE. WE LIVE IN A HOT AND DRY CLIMATE
Reason for Previous Stain Failure
– PET AND PEOPLE TRAFFIC. AND POTENTIALLY POOR PREVIOUS COATINGS

OTHER INFO
– this is our first year in a new house. Previous owners would sand and restain the deck each year. We inherited a deck that was very patchy
– so far we have cleaned using a mildew and mold killer and sanded with a floor and orbital sander. We used 100 grit
– my concern is that we didn’t get enough material off
– do we have to sand down to bare wood? Or is a sand and clean plus a re-coat of the same product sufficient?

You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
– the first two photos show starting point, the last one shows after sanding

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Dan
Dan
8 months ago

Thank you. What do you recommend for a stripper? Is there anything bio degrading and/or safe for pets? If not, how would you recommend ensuring the area is safe for people and pets when we’re done?

Lisa W.
Lisa W.
8 months ago
  1. New Wood or Older Wood? – OLD
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? YES
  3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? SWITCHING BRANDS
  4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. UNKNOWN
  5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? SOLID STAIN, UNKNOWN TYPE
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues? NO
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? AGED OUT
  8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
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Andrea Gunter
Andrea Gunter
8 months ago
  1. New Wood or Older Wood? – Old Wood
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? -Yes
  3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? – Applying same brand, unless you recommend something else.
  4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. – Behr waterproofing stain and sealer
  5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? – I think it’s water based, semi-transparent
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues? No
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Most likely applicator error. Although it’s been a couple of years and I’m in the Pacific Northwest.

Thank you for any advice! I’m doing this to try and save my mother money, but have no idea what I’m doing!

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Andrea Gunter
Andrea Gunter
8 months ago

Thank you for your reply. We ordered the RAD stripper with both additives, the RAD brightener and 3 gallons of the RAD solid stain. Got all my supplies, planning on starting bright and early to get it all done tomorrow. As I was clearing everything off the deck tonight, I realized I’m an idiot. The siding doesn’t seem like real wood. It seems like a composite of some sort? I realize I should know what it is but I don’t. My question is can you tell what it is from the pictures? Do I treat it like the rest of the wood, strip it, brighten it and then stain it? Or do I need to protect it somehow?

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Andrea Gunter
Andrea Gunter
7 months ago

Ok, I’m finally done. And it looks fabulous if I do say so myself! Anyone that has any hesitation about purchasing the RAD products – do it. If I can use them, anyone can. It was so simple to do, and it came out great. I tried to take pictures after each step, but they don’t do it justice. First 2 pictures are the before, with the Behr product. 3rd is after stripping. I can only put 4 pics per post, so end results in next comment.

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Andrea Gunter
Andrea Gunter
7 months ago

My results after using the Restore a Deck stripper, brightener, and solid stain in cypress. This stuff is amazing. I’m a 45 year old vet tech who’s pretty lazy. If I can use these products, anyone can. See previous comment for other pictures. First 2 pictures are after brightener. That stuff is amazing. Final 2 pics are after applying 2 coats of stain with a roller. At 10pm at night. There are a few spots where it’s a little lighter than the rest, and I was wanting to go back and get in between the boards. Can I touch up the light spots and do in between boards or did I miss my opportunity?
Thank you again for all your help. You saved my mom $1800, and made me the hero!

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Raymond Wade
Raymond Wade
8 months ago

New or old wood?
Old 10 years cedar wood
Does deck have a current coating?
Yes,Australia timber oil cedar tone
Are you switching brands of deck stain or applying maintenance coat of the same brand and color?
Maintenance coat, not sure of same brand
Deck stain previously used?
Cabot Australian timber oil cedar tone. Nothing before
Mold or mildew issues?
No
Reason for previous stain failure
Cabot started failing before end of first year

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CAROLYN VAN DE ROSTYNE
CAROLYN VAN DE ROSTYNE
9 months ago

New Wood or Older Wood?
OLD >15 YRS
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
SOLID STAIN (BOX STORE BRAND) OVER A SEMI TRANSPARENT? OIL OR WATER NOT SURE
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
REMOVING OLD AND APPLYING TWP SEMI SOLID IN A DARKER BROWN
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
UNKNOWN
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-
Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
SOLID STAIN
Mold or Mildew Issues?
NO
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
SOLID STAIN APPLIED OVER UNPREPPED FAILING PREVIOUS COAT
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
ATTACHED – BEFORE (RAINING) AND AFTER STRIPPING THEN POWERWASH

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CAROLYN VAN DE ROSTYNE
CAROLYN VAN DE ROSTYNE
9 months ago

Thank you – getting it sanded down – drum sander made the job easy – now preferring semi transparent TWP – over semi-solid – should be good right?

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Nathan Muleski
Nathan Muleski
9 months ago

Sorry, I’m not sure what happened to my photos on the last post. Here are better ones.

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Nathan Muleski
Nathan Muleski
9 months ago
  1. New Wood or Older Wood? OLD
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? YES
  3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? SWITCHING
  4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. UNKNOWN
  5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? I THINK SEMI-TRANSPARENT?
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues? NO
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? JUST VERY OLD
  8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.

Bought the house three years ago and haven’t done anything to it. Looks horizontal boards haven’t been stained in a long time. The vertical boards look like they were stained again, but at least 5 years ago.
I want to do the whole thing in a semi-transparent.
Do I need to strip this? Or can I just clean, brighten, re-stain?

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Kalpesh
Kalpesh
9 months ago

We had a contractor to prep the deck before a painting company is to come put a solid stain on. He stripped and did a rigorous power washing along with sanding some areas and even scrapping but could not get all the paint off. We are going with a darker solid stain on the flooring but what would you recommend for additional prepping. I think it needs a 60-80 grit sanding to smooth things out since the contractor has left it a bit of a mess. Thanks!

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Reid Carscadden
Reid Carscadden
9 months ago

After rigorous power sanding, should I use a deck brightener or stripper to remove remaining deep set stain and dark boards (mold?)? Photo taken after sanding and wetting deck.

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Kevin
Kevin
9 months ago

Refinishing (again) a 20+ year old cedar deck. It has some rotted sections on the ends but still stable enough to get another few years out of it. Some pretty significant deep weathering, so I’m planning to sand it down to clear and use an oil stain. (Cabot is fairly available, TWP is harder to find locally.) Hoping the sanding precludes the need to use the chemical stripper. Thoughts on that?

And my big question is if I sand it down, do I need to weather it and use brightener before staining?

New Wood or Older Wood?

20+ year old cedar

Does the Deck have a Current Coating?

Mostly worn off, but some remaining in areas protected by furniture.

Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?

Planning to switch to a penetrating oil since I’ve had zero luck with any of the water-based stains I’ve tried.

Deck Stain Brand Previously Used?

Not sure what all I’ve tried, but I know I’ve used Flood and I think the latest was Behr. Have used stripper and brightener every refinishing.

What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?

Water-based, semi-transparent.

Mold or Mildew Issues?

Mold, mildew, lichen, yep

Reason for Previous Stain Failure?

Wisconsin. No matter what I’ve used, it starts peeling up after the first winter.

You can see in the pic that I did start sanding. If it’s a bad approach, I can live with that one course of treads being different, but the deep grain grooves seem to trap dirt and mold.

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Kevin
Kevin
9 months ago

Thanks. Clean and brighten and stain immediately after sanding okay then? No need to weather it again after sanding?

Kevin
Kevin
9 months ago

Awesome, thanks

Marty
Marty
9 months ago

Installed new red cedar decking last fall. I used the RAD cleaner and brightner yesterday. This morning the deck has white blotches aroung the knots and some on the boards. I misread the brightner instructions and did the entire decking at one time rather than a litlle at a time. What can I do to resolve this? Thanks.

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Marty
Marty
9 months ago

After my post I used clean water and a stiff brush to go over a small section. There is this ‘gunk’ that comes up. I can wipe it up with a sponge. Is there value in removing this? Which choice (remove ‘oxidation’ or not) will leave me with the best, most consistent look with my A/C semi-transparent stain?

Marty
Marty
9 months ago

Did a ‘good’ power wash again(no RAD, just water) and it did indeed remove all the gunk. There is a very fine line when power washing.. After all this should I expect to have good/appropriate absorption of the stain in the cedar?

Cindy Belleau
Cindy Belleau
9 months ago

I’ve got a 30 yr old deck in fair condition. I hired a guy to work on it 3 years ago who put a Sherman Williams solid paint like stain on it.
It’s peeling off in pieces but some areas are still stuck on.
I plan on power washing it lightly to blow all of the loose stuff off and then use stripper on the parts that didn’t come off.
I’m too old and arthritic to do this again and want to go back to a clear water repellent sealer type again

Is that possible?

Will
Will
9 months ago

Hello! It’s been about 4/5 years since we’ve bought our house and our deck is certainly ready to be freshly stained/painted, and being that this is our first time doing this solo, I was hoping for some advice. We were thinking about going with a solid stain to help cover some of the imperfections in the wood (unless you think otherwise). We’re trying to determine if a simple clean and application of solid stain will do the trick? Or, if a complete strip is required:

  1. New Wood or Older Wood?
  2. Older
  3. Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
  4. Yes, it appears to be a solid
  5. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
  6. We are switching brands as we do not know what the prior homeowner used
  7. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
  8. Unknown
  9. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
  10. It appears to be a solid
  11. Mold or Mildew Issues?
  12. Some mildew as the deck is semi shaded from a tree
  13. Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
  14. Lack of maintenance
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Will
Will
9 months ago

Thanks for the quick reply! And just so I understand, using the stripping agent on all parts of the deck, even on the privacy fence area that still had a solid coat, is necessary before applying the new solid? Or, can you simply stain right over any existing solid that is in good condition?

Kristine
Kristine
9 months ago

My husband over stained our deck last year. So much stain that it transfers to clothing and feet etc. He used stripper this year which resulted in uneven color, spots, and furry parts of the wood. I read, after we noticed the furry wood, if he had used brightener after stripping he might have avoided the furry wood, not sure if that’s accurate or not but either way he did not. So now we are trying to figure out what to do. We still have stain transferring onto feet and clothing. Do we use stripper and brightener? Do we sand? All of the above? What kind of stain could we apply to not risk any transfer? We also need it durable for kids and dogs. The deck was built in 2019 so it’s newer.

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Kristine
Kristine
9 months ago

Thank you so much! Ready seal is exactly what we had used.

Kristine
Kristine
9 months ago

Can I purchase these products in a store or online order only? Also, I see there are gel booster products sold separately, would this be needed?

Karen
Karen
9 months ago

Hi Scott,
I sure could use your expertise! My deck has some serious issues due to mold. Most areas get very little sun so rain and snow have done a number on the horizontal surfaces. I believe it is all pressure treated wood. The railings appear to be in very good shape. The deck is 30+ years old and currently has a semi-transparent water based stain. I want to change to a different brand of a solid water based stain.
I need guidance on the best way to prep for staining. Not sure if horizontal surfaces need stripping or sanding. Can I just clean the vertical surfaces as they are in good shape?
I would also appreciate tips on how to try and avoid mildew in the future, if that is even possible.

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Chris
Chris
9 months ago

Hi Scott,

My redwood fence is 7 years old and it’s time for a little TLC. A couple sprinklers were hitting the fence and washed the boards out. I power washed the fence but the lighter areas from the sprinklers are still there. It previously had a transparent stain of SuperDeck, oil based. I am planning to stain it with TWP 1502. My thought is that a semi transparent stain will help hide the discoloration. Is that the correct approach? After power washing, the fence came out clean with no mold or mildew issues. I thought a brightener will help even out the boards as well. Do I need a stripper of cleaner prior to the brightener? I have a lot of fence. Realistically how much coverage will I get with 5 gallons.

Thanks for the help,
Chris

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Yvonne Gibson
Yvonne Gibson
10 months ago

I purchased the Stripper and Brighter for a older Cedar Deck, and unfortunately I’m having a problem removing mold from my deck. I’m going to try again today, but notice that there is something else I probably should have purchased to go alone with the stripper. 3 of the boards look brand new which of course is at the edge but the others I’m having the worst time getting the algae and mold off the boards. I feel that maybe I should have cleaned them first. So before I continue to try and clean my deck can you give me some advice. I tried to ask before I purchased the products but of course there was no responds

82nd
82nd
10 months ago

Repost due to corrupted link.
Scot I need your expertise! I don’t know where to start with this deck. It’s around 10 to 12 years old. I hired a professional painter to apply a semigloss. He chose SuperDeck. It appeared solid after it dried. 6 months later it started to peel. It is now mostly gone from the weather. The wood has some cracking and pitting/grooves. The deck is high up on my second story. Full Sun on most of deck with mild freezing winters with light snow sometimes and hot humid Carolina summers. The bottom of the boards look dirty/moldy but not as worn. Should I replace the worse boards then prep and stain. Should I flip all the boards and replace the worse ones then stain? What product/transparency/color should I be looking at? I look forward to you recommendations.

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82nd
82nd
10 months ago

Thank You Sir!. What products, transparency and even color do you suggest after sanding? Also, should I use a stripper before sanding to get the rest of the old stain off? I’m looking for longevity and protection that doesn’t look horrible at least. God bless and thank you again!

Jazmine
Jazmine
10 months ago

Thanks for this service! I’ve tried for 5 years to figure out a correct stain.
1. Wood is 5 years old
2. Yes
3. Switching brands
4. Cabot
5. Semi solid
6. Slight mold around the base of the beams
7. Dirt (from 3 boys and a dog) just seems to stick to it. I have tried literally mopping it and it doesn’t help.

You can see the color difference in the pictures from the floor and the beams. The beams show what it looked like when first stained last summer. The floor shows the color difference because of the dirt and dust. I also need something that will clean this off so I can start all over. For stain purposes I was looking into the DEFY extreme stain that you recommended.
Thank you!

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Jazmine
Jazmine
10 months ago

Ok thank you. Would the Defy help repel dirt and dust better?

Jazmine
Jazmine
10 months ago

Thank you

Deb E.
Deb E.
10 months ago

Hi Paul, so happy to find your forum….been looking for help for a long while.
Would love to restore luster and also get rid of the black coloring that is mostly evident on bench sides.
Meranti deck (pre-coated), approx 13 yrs old
Have done light sanding about every 5 yrs, regular (annual or every 2 yrs) cleaning followed by 2 coats of Penofin Brazilian Rosewood Oil (transparent) as recommended by lumber vendor that we bought deck material from.
Last coat was 2 yrs ago.
Photos show current color/consist ion as well as one area that gets limited exposure (to show original color).

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Edward
Edward
10 months ago

Hi Scott. Thanks for the info, as the more I read on various sites, the more confused I get due to conflicting info.

  1. Mixed–deck older, railing 8 months old (shortly before move-in). Assuming this implies using a semi-solid or solid stain?
  2. Not sure. Corner under overhang more reddish, so would guess yes?
  3. Switching brands
  4. Unknown
  5. Unknown
  6. Assuming mold/mildew, because part near grill/bushes is a bit greenish
  7. Old

Confused as to whether to use stripper, sand, or just clean+brighten. If you advise to strip or sand, please let me know whether to:

  1. clean, then strip/sand, then clean again, then brighten?
  2. clean, then strip/sand, then brighten?
  3. strip/sand, then clean+brighten?
  4. some other combo?

Thanks so much!

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Milena
Milena
10 months ago

Hi Scott!
Thanks for all the info. I want to restore my deck (info and images attached), but I am not sure if I should sand, clean or strip it. I plan on using a transparent stain after. I do not have access to RAD (I’m in Canada). Could you please give me some suggestions? Thanks!

  • New Wood or Older Wood?

Old wood, but not sure how old.

  • Does the Deck have a Current Coating?

Not sure. It has looked like the pictures since I moved in.

  • Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?

n/a

  • Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.

unknown

  • What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?

Looks transparent/semi transparent, if any.

  • Mold or Mildew Issues?

Yes, a bit.

  • Reason for Previous Stain Failure?

n/a
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.

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Matt
Matt
10 months ago

Hey Scott,
Just finished stripping my PT deck with the Restore A Deck stripper and brightener. Have sanding to do before applying my semi solid TWP. Do I need to use brightener again after sanding?
Thanks!

Eliza karlson
Eliza karlson
10 months ago

Hi Scott,
working on a Alaskan cedar deck that is 7 months old. We put a light penetrating sealer on it and it mostly wore off but not on railings. We have stripped twice sanded entire deck and what we can reach in railings with orbital sander and power washed. Deck looks okay, railings not so good. Stripper and sealer look dried on wood, power washing didn’t remove the sealer. It’s a big mess. I will post photos but how can we get sealer and etc off railings? Have we over stripped, sanded and washed. Can we wet again and brighten so we can stain? Pics to follow. Thanks so much! Eliza

Paul
Paul
11 months ago

Should I add non-skid additive to my semi-transparent water based deck stain for better traction?

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