This post was updated on April 25, 2023
What is the Best Deck Deck Prep 2023
See our Deck Stain Facts section with over 150 simple Q&A articles that answer all the questions that you have regarding deck staining, cleaning, and prep.
This has become one of our most popular articles on DeckStainhelp.com. In this article, we help by guiding consumers in finding the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article with some input and pictures from you will help determine the proper way to prep.
Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
This is the 2nd most popular question that deck owners have on this website with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain? Prepping your deck is the single most important aspect of the deck restoration process and will determine your final appearance and the stain’s longevity. Not prepping properly can lead to premature stain failure and overall poor appearance results. How to best prep your deck could vary on many scenarios:
- Is the wood new or old?
- Does it have a previous coating on the wood?
- Are you re-coating with the same brand and colors as last time?
- When was the last time it was stained?
- What type of stain was it coated with before?
A better way to approach the deck prepping question is to ask, “what is the best deck prep for my deck due to its current condition and age?”
The three main ways to prep a deck are:
- Deck Cleaning followed by Wood Brightening
- Deck Stripping followed by Wood Brightening
- Power Sanding
- Or a combination of the above
How To Strip A Deck Stain Video
What is the Best Deck way to Prep My Deck?
We will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers to these questions, we will be able to provide help as to the best way to prep your deck before applying a deck stain.
- New Wood or Older Wood?
- Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
- Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
- Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
- What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
- Mold or Mildew Issues?
- Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
- You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Post a comment below and make sure to include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional information that would be useful!
Best Deck Prepping Product Articles
Ask in the Comment Section Below. Include Answers to the above Questions.
As an article and comment contributor to the site, Scott has been around the pressure washing industry since attending college. In 1993 he started his first company called Oakland Pressure Wash specializing in exterior pressure washing and deck staining. That company evolved into OPW L.L.C. shortly thereafter concentrating more on exterior wood and deck restoration. Scott and his Deck Cleaning Michigan company have restored over 10,000 decks in the Metro Detroit area since the early years. He has become an authority in the deck restoration industry and has contributed to numerous wood restoration forums and informative sites.
All the products he suggests through this site are sold through online sites and in retail stores, allowing the consumer to choose their own means of purchase. Scott’s eCommerce sites do sell many top brands he endorses and if you appreciate any of the help he has offered then feel free to purchase from one of them.
Thanks for the informative site! Question about re finishing a deck that has large areas of old red (not black)rust stains from an irrigation system that had high iron content in water. (See pic)
Answers to your questions:
1. Old wood that is in good condition except for graying and red rust stain
2 – 6 Deck has been treated (not apparently stained) previously but with what is unknown. (A simple water seal?) It has a natural finish and that’s what the owner would like to preserve.
6. No mold, mildew issues
7. Just showing the effects of UV exposure I think.
Not sure if that red will come out so you may be stuck with a solid stain to cover it. Look at a 2 toned deck:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
Not sure how to prep or stain this Wisconsin deck. We liked the color and transparency of the first stain we put on after moving in (Behr Semi-Transparent Waterproofing Wood Stain, Cedar Naturaltone #3533), but it was hard to put on evenly. The second time the big box store sold us the “same product” in a different brand. It was more opaque, too orange, and didn’t last as well. But it did seem to keep the mildew at bay much better.
Questions:
What do we need to do to prep the deck? Deck cleaner only, or deck cleaner and stripper?
Do you have a suggestion for stain type and/or brand? Looking to keep roughly similar color, but more transparent if it won’t look weird over current patchy stain.
First picture is more representative. Second two pictures are high traffic areas. Last picture is the last stain used.
What you have now is opaque. You will need to heavy sand and strip this off with a paint stripper to get all the current coatings off. See here for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Hi Scott, I love your website, it was a huge help when we had to recover our new deck only 1 year after we stained it using a bad product (recommended by the contractor who built our deck).
After this debacle, we sanded the deck to remove all the flaky stain and applied the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit. Then used TWP 1500 Series in May 2019 and now I really should be applying a maintenance coat ( it probably should have been done last year). I want to use the same brand/same product/same color but I am not sure about the preparation. I was planning on only sanding with 60 grit sand paper and then rinse it with water? Please advise: is the sanding unnecessary and I should only use a deck cleaner + brightener? Or does the old coat need to be sanded because of the UV greying?
To answer your questions:
Use the Gemini Kit again while pressure washing. Do not sand.
Thanks a lot for your quick answer. I do not have a pressure washer. If I apply the Gemini cleaner and brush it with a deck scrub brush, would that ok too?
Much easier and more effective to use a pressure washer. Best to borrow or rent one if you do not have one. Scrubbing will not turn out as well.
Hi Scott! So glad I found your website! I have read through a lot and watched the youtube videos. I have a few questions to make sure I am on the right path.
We bought new cedar for our deck 3 years ago. It is cedar select tight 1 knot. “Our guy” stained it with Olympic Maximum stain and seal, espresso color. One coat. He is excellent in all the work he does!!! He has done everything for us. The deck staining, though, just didn’t turn out nice at all. He said he wasn’t sure what went wrong. I’ve been reading about prepping new wood, and not sure he did that.
Anyway, I want our deck to look better and enjoy it. It is a wrap around porch with an extension for bbq, dining, sitting, etc. It is all completely covered, except the steps up front and part of the side of the extension. I’m attaching pictures. 🙂
1. Since it is espresso color (dark), do you think the Restore a Deck stripper and wood brightener are enough to have a clean surface to start all over?
2. What do you think went wrong (picture 2 specifically) with the initial application? It never looked even (they sprayed and went over to with a pad). It had this soapy residue that hasn’t ever seemed to come off even with several sweeps, scrubs, pressure washing. It looks and feels dull. Not at all what we were expecting.
3. Picture 4 shows the drips. Should we focus on removing these as well? We plan to restain with a darkish color again. Is this a normal look, or do people hand paint them, etc?
4. Picture 3 shows area exposed to the sun. It completely strips off with a pressure washer, even softly and from a distance. Is this normal for stain? If I pressure wash the house, it does not strip the paint in the slightest.
We are in the Seattle area.
Thank you for any help!!!
Two things went wrong.
1. He did not follow directions for new wood:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
2. He used a poor stain brand. Instead of being a penetrating semi-transparent, the Olympic goes on like a paint. Hence the thick color that is almost opaque and the drips.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/olympic-maximum-stain-sealant-in-one-review/
Your issue now is the full removal (you cannot stain over this with a penetrating stain) of the stain. It will not be an easy strip in the covered areas and may require power sanding as well. We would suggest stripping off as much as possible and then sanding the rest off. In the areas where it is deteriorated, use the Restore A Deck stain stripper with both additives. In the areas that are covered, you may need the RAD Paint Strip.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel-review/
Remove as much as possible and then sand the rest if needed:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Once fully prepped, use a penetrating stain like the TWP 1503 Dark Oak or the 1504 Black Walnut.
Thank you so, incredibly, much for your thorough reply!!! I am have asked at several stores and have not received such clear advice as yours. I really appreciate it!!!
Welcome!
Hi Scott, we jut bought a house with a 16-year old 24’x12′ deck that’s in fairly good condition but needs some work. The stain is partially faded and the wood is rough and cracked/splintering. There’s even mushrooms growing out of a few boards! I am planning to pressure wash and sand before staining, but was wondering if I still needed cleaner, stripper, or brightener if I am sanding everything down. Thank you for your help!
Older wood (from 2007)
Current Coating: Partially stained
Switching Brands of Deck Stain
Deck Stain Brand previously used: unknown
Current Deck Stain Type: Semi-solid, I think.
Mold or Mildew Issues: Black mildew under railings, orange fungus growing out of some boards
Reason for Previous Stain Failure: Foot traffic, lack of maintenance
Strip and pressure wash first. Sand off any remmants that cannot be stripped. Brighten last.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Hi, I have a cedar deck about a year old that was finished with a light coat of TWP 100 series. After a monumental winter up here in Tahoe, there are some black spots or rings from a couple chairs that were left out. Can I clean, Brighten, then re-stain? Will the cleaner take out some of the black marks from the chair sitting in one spot?
That is rust. You should strip and brighten for prep. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener kits.
Hello- Help. We have used RAD products before for our covered front porch (with semi-translucent stain) and had success. Today we are using the regular RAD stripper and brightener for the floor of the back deck (not doing the uprights and top rails). However, the old stain is not really coming off easily and I think maybe I was not attentive to the old stain- and we needed the heavier duty RAD PAINT STRIP AND SOLID STAIN STRIPPING GEL? That is, our old stain was a solid stain vs. semi-translucent? some pictures are attached. The pictures show how it is looking after a pass with the power washer and some hands and knees scrubbing…As you can see in the pictures, there is still persistent stain in the grooves and some is quite thick still in some areas- softened a bit but still stubbornly attached to the wood. The one picture w/the flooring near the house wall was not yet power washed, but that area experienced little wear and the stain/paint is quite thick there.. . The thing is I feel like I’m scrubbing too much and raising the nap of the wood (if that is the right word)…
}New or Older Wood – deck floor maybe 10 years old (we are not doing the uprights or top rails) – but last stained about 5 years ago
}Deck have current coating – yes – I think it is a solid stain (but my records said semi-translucent duck back velspar?) done about 5 years ago
}Switching brands? Yes – we have purchased and want to use the RAD semitranslucent cottage grey
}Current deck stain type – again – I am not sure; my old records that it is semi-translucent duckback velspar tinted – not sure if oil or latex based…
}Mold or mildew: some not much
}Reason for stain failure: age?
Questions:
1. Yes you have a solid stain so the RAD PaintStrip is correct.
2. You will not damage the wood if using proper technique.
Thank you, Sir! Off to order now!
Welcome!
New Wood or Older Wood? This deck has 2 parts. The first part is estimated at 32 years old and the second part is currently 21 years old. The newer deck is a ramp and off the main deck. Seen to the Right of the one image attached to the old one. First 2 images are of the original deck with the stain remanence on it. Also the stairs off the main deck are less than 10 years old.
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? The older deck has a stain. Looks solid. Some has not come off hence the sanding you can see in the pic. The newer portion of the deck(21yrs) has no stain. And has been pressure washed multiple times.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?it would be a different brand likely. I used Olympic transparent on the back deck and want to do so on the front. I quite like it as the back deck only needs a maintenance coat. Because there are 2 types of wood here I’m thinking honey ish colour so it’s not so obvious that it’s different woods. I know Olympic is a newer brand and so it would not likely be the same.
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
unknown really
Mold or Mildew Issues? The newer part does have some mold/mildew not sure which even after pressure washing
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Dunno my guess is it’s old. Didn’t matter cause the newer deck needs to be done be nice if it semi matches which it won’t completely cause I think it’s different wood. Newer deck was pressure treated wood.
Sand off the solid stain that is left and then clean and brighten all wood after.
Thanks for the quick reply. I am defiantly sanding all of the old deck as that’s already begun and it won’t look nice if I stop. The newer part I could not sand but it has been pressure washed multiple times by my husband and never completed, so the wood is all torn up. Like sliver worthy and no stain and sealant can fix that. I did get 2 slivers today. Is it not a good idea to get rid of the not so nice wood?
Or will the clean and brighten do this for the wood?
With my idea I’d going honey, will the clean and brighten get rid of the grey and dingy?
Clean and brighten are all you need for final prep. If you have some slivers here and there, you can lightly hand sand them off first.
How best can I prep this deck to be stained with oil based product?
You have a solid stain so easiest is to prep and recoat with another solid stain. They only come in water based:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Hello, I recently (1week ago) built and finished my deck and stained it with Behr Transparent penetrating oil wood finish. I stained it and of course it started raining very heavy after 8-9hrs. The wood I used is pressure treated cedar. What should I do now? Reapplying the stain or should I sand it and wash it and then reapply the stain or should I strip it? Thank you!
You cannot stain new wood right away: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Strip and brighten to remove it and then follow the directions for new wood weathering and prep.
Hello,
We have a new deck that was just stained with semi-transparent oil based Benjamin Moore stain. This took two days. It started raining on the second day and there are a few white spots starting to form in certain places.
Questions are as follows:
Any other advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
We cannot offer proper advice unless we can see some pics. Please post them in the comments.
I have an ipe deck that has been allowed to grey. Every year or two I give it a light power wash to keep it clean. I’m considering using RAD to bring it back and then stain it with RAD. What color should I use? How often will I have to either use Step1/2 and reapply? Or, can I just reapply every year or two?
You always have to prep when recoating and IPE wood will require annual maintenance. RAD in Light Walnut looks great on IPE wood.
A company just refinished my deck by power washing, sanding and staining with an oil-based transparent redwood stain. (Deck is redwood and was built in 2015.) Several boards are blotchy, and the company says it’s the boards–not anything they did. From what I’m reading here, I don’t totally believe them. I’ve attached a couple of photos and would appreciate your advice on how to get this fixed. Thank you.
In this scenario, we would agree with the contractor. Stain can absorb differently based on the wood density of each board. If it was application, it would have more distinct line from the applicator they used.
Thank you–I greatly appreciate your fast reply on this. Any suggestions on how to prevent this next time?
It cannot be prevented. It is the way the wood is taking the stain. For example, knots almost always turn out lighter in color.
New Wood or Older Wood?
I believe older wood
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Yes
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Switching brands
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
Unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
I have no idea
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Not that I see
Reason for Previous Stain Failure
Unknown
How should I go about removing this old stain to get it ready for new?
It is hard to tell from your pictures but you may have a solid stain (beige in color) under all that dirt and grime. Can you determine if that is true?
I can’t. Its not my personal deck, but it seems like that’s just the original wood underneath(of course you’re the professional here). Unfortunately the owner of the deck knows just about nothing about it.
Strip and brighten for prep to determine if natural wood or a solid stain under. You will know when done if you can use a penetrating stain or have to go with a solid stain after. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener Kits for the prep while pressure washing.
Looking to restore as best I can, an older mahogany deck built around 2000, unsure of previous treatments. Looking for how to prep(read many articles still unsure about stripper and sanding) sanding could be tricky as some boards aren’t completely level and very large deck. Also looking what stain with. Mostly full sun. Thank you in advance!
Try the Restore a Deck Stripper and Brightener kits for prep. Stain with Restore A Deck Stain in Light Walnut or Armstrong Clark Stain in Amber or Mahogany:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/hardwood-deck-stains/
Is the wood new or old? Mostly old (with a few new boards). House (and possibly deck) built in 1995.
Does it have a previous coating on the wood? Yes
Are you re-coating with the same brand and colors as last time? Unknown
When was the last time it was stained? Unknown
What type of stain was it coated with before? Unknown
What is the best deck prep for my deck due to its current condition and age? Do we stain or paint? Looking to go darker color to more easily hide any future mildew
You have a solid stain. See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Older Redwood, 15 years. Previously had Semi-transparent stain. I used stripper, then brightener, powerwash, then I sanded it with 50 then 80 grit. I thought I was ready to stain after the sanding, but I read in the article, “Why sanding a deck can be an issue” that
“A good wood stain finish always starts with the correct sanding preparation. It is important, to begin with, a power sander …no more than 60 or 80 grit paper.
The next step is to clean the wood thoroughly after the sanding. Deck cleaners, also known as deck wash are used to lift dirt and unsightly mildew which accumulates over time”
This is suggesting ANOTHER deck cleaner AND brightener treatment AFTER my sanding? is this correct? Thank you!
Yes, it opens up the wood pores after sanding so your stain can penetrate better.
Thank you, the cleaner/brightener won’t make the wood too “fuzzy” (the main reason I started the sanding in the first place)?
Also, see below, I read this on another forum, but I’ve never heard of applying a “sealer” over a stain?
Bottom line: A combined stain-and-sealant product offers durable moisture and UV protection with little downside. Short of this 2-in-1-type product, you can always apply a stain to the deck and, after 48 hours, apply sealant to achieve a similar level of protection.
You want the wood porous and slightly rough, not sanded to smooth. You cannot apply a sealer over a stain, it would peel. Bob is clueless when it comes to decks 🙂
Hello,
I have a western red cedar deck that’s about 8 years old now. Maybe 6 years ago I switched to TWP 101 and have re-applied it at least twice. I want to switch to a water-based product, namely RAD’s Semi-Transparent. The order of steps I plan to take are 1) strip using RAD Stripper and Thickening Gel, 2) do some orbital spot sanding if need be, 3) brighten after stripping and sanding with RAD Brightener, 4) apply new stain. Is this the correct order steps?
Yes, that is correct. You probably do not need to sand. TWP is an easy product to remove.
New Wood or Older Wood?
– OLDER
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
– YES
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
– MAINTENANCE COAT / RECOAT DUE TO THE DECK BEING IN REALLY ROUGH SHAPE
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
– BEHR 501 – CEDAR NATURALTONE EXTERIOR WOOD TRANSPARENT FINISH
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
– 100% WATER ACRYLLIC WATER BASED TRANSPARENT
Mold or Mildew Issues?
– SOME, NOT TERRIBLE. WE LIVE IN A HOT AND DRY CLIMATE
Reason for Previous Stain Failure
– PET AND PEOPLE TRAFFIC. AND POTENTIALLY POOR PREVIOUS COATINGS
OTHER INFO
– this is our first year in a new house. Previous owners would sand and restain the deck each year. We inherited a deck that was very patchy
– so far we have cleaned using a mildew and mold killer and sanded with a floor and orbital sander. We used 100 grit
– my concern is that we didn’t get enough material off
– do we have to sand down to bare wood? Or is a sand and clean plus a re-coat of the same product sufficient?
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
– the first two photos show starting point, the last one shows after sanding
Behr is a very poor product. Best is to remove all off the floors and then use a true penetrating stain so you do not repeat the issues of uneveness and it will make it much easier to clean and recoat as needed. To remove, you will need to strip and probably sand it off.
Once prepped, use TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Thank you. What do you recommend for a stripper? Is there anything bio degrading and/or safe for pets? If not, how would you recommend ensuring the area is safe for people and pets when we’re done?
See this for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-stain-strippers/
Once done with stripping and the area is fully dry, it is safe for pets and people.
See this first for prep tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
And then this for the best solid stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thank you for any advice! I’m doing this to try and save my mother money, but have no idea what I’m doing!
Behr lies about their opacity. It looks like a solid opaque stain, not semi-transparent. Easiest thing to do is prep and apply a solid stain for uniformity or you will need to strip and sand off the current coating fully.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
FYI, Behr stain are very poor in general. Much better brands out there:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thank you for your reply. We ordered the RAD stripper with both additives, the RAD brightener and 3 gallons of the RAD solid stain. Got all my supplies, planning on starting bright and early to get it all done tomorrow. As I was clearing everything off the deck tonight, I realized I’m an idiot. The siding doesn’t seem like real wood. It seems like a composite of some sort? I realize I should know what it is but I don’t. My question is can you tell what it is from the pictures? Do I treat it like the rest of the wood, strip it, brighten it and then stain it? Or do I need to protect it somehow?
Sides are composite so just do the floors.
Ok, I’m finally done. And it looks fabulous if I do say so myself! Anyone that has any hesitation about purchasing the RAD products – do it. If I can use them, anyone can. It was so simple to do, and it came out great. I tried to take pictures after each step, but they don’t do it justice. First 2 pictures are the before, with the Behr product. 3rd is after stripping. I can only put 4 pics per post, so end results in next comment.
Looks great!
My results after using the Restore a Deck stripper, brightener, and solid stain in cypress. This stuff is amazing. I’m a 45 year old vet tech who’s pretty lazy. If I can use these products, anyone can. See previous comment for other pictures. First 2 pictures are after brightener. That stuff is amazing. Final 2 pics are after applying 2 coats of stain with a roller. At 10pm at night. There are a few spots where it’s a little lighter than the rest, and I was wanting to go back and get in between the boards. Can I touch up the light spots and do in between boards or did I miss my opportunity?
Thank you again for all your help. You saved my mom $1800, and made me the hero!
Looks great. Hard to say if it will blend when you touch up. Try a small spot to see and let dry before doing all spots.
New or old wood?
Old 10 years cedar wood
Does deck have a current coating?
Yes,Australia timber oil cedar tone
Are you switching brands of deck stain or applying maintenance coat of the same brand and color?
Maintenance coat, not sure of same brand
Deck stain previously used?
Cabot Australian timber oil cedar tone. Nothing before
Mold or mildew issues?
No
Reason for previous stain failure
Cabot started failing before end of first year
Strip and brighten for prep using the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener kit. It will be an easy strip. Stain with Armstrong Clark stains or Restore A Deck Stains.
New Wood or Older Wood?
OLD >15 YRS
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
SOLID STAIN (BOX STORE BRAND) OVER A SEMI TRANSPARENT? OIL OR WATER NOT SURE
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
REMOVING OLD AND APPLYING TWP SEMI SOLID IN A DARKER BROWN
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
UNKNOWN
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-
Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
SOLID STAIN
Mold or Mildew Issues?
NO
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
SOLID STAIN APPLIED OVER UNPREPPED FAILING PREVIOUS COAT
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
ATTACHED – BEFORE (RAINING) AND AFTER STRIPPING THEN POWERWASH
To remove this and use a semi-solid, you will need to heavy strip and sand as well: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Thank you – getting it sanded down – drum sander made the job easy – now preferring semi transparent TWP – over semi-solid – should be good right?
Yes but make sure to clean and brighten after the sanding.
Sorry, I’m not sure what happened to my photos on the last post. Here are better ones.
Strip and brighten all. Look at the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits.
Bought the house three years ago and haven’t done anything to it. Looks horizontal boards haven’t been stained in a long time. The vertical boards look like they were stained again, but at least 5 years ago.
I want to do the whole thing in a semi-transparent.
Do I need to strip this? Or can I just clean, brighten, re-stain?
We had a contractor to prep the deck before a painting company is to come put a solid stain on. He stripped and did a rigorous power washing along with sanding some areas and even scrapping but could not get all the paint off. We are going with a darker solid stain on the flooring but what would you recommend for additional prepping. I think it needs a 60-80 grit sanding to smooth things out since the contractor has left it a bit of a mess. Thanks!
It should be fine to apply a solid stain over this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
After rigorous power sanding, should I use a deck brightener or stripper to remove remaining deep set stain and dark boards (mold?)? Photo taken after sanding and wetting deck.
Strip and then brighten would be correct.
Refinishing (again) a 20+ year old cedar deck. It has some rotted sections on the ends but still stable enough to get another few years out of it. Some pretty significant deep weathering, so I’m planning to sand it down to clear and use an oil stain. (Cabot is fairly available, TWP is harder to find locally.) Hoping the sanding precludes the need to use the chemical stripper. Thoughts on that?
And my big question is if I sand it down, do I need to weather it and use brightener before staining?
New Wood or Older Wood?
20+ year old cedar
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Mostly worn off, but some remaining in areas protected by furniture.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Planning to switch to a penetrating oil since I’ve had zero luck with any of the water-based stains I’ve tried.
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used?
Not sure what all I’ve tried, but I know I’ve used Flood and I think the latest was Behr. Have used stripper and brightener every refinishing.
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Water-based, semi-transparent.
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Mold, mildew, lichen, yep
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
Wisconsin. No matter what I’ve used, it starts peeling up after the first winter.
You can see in the pic that I did start sanding. If it’s a bad approach, I can live with that one course of treads being different, but the deep grain grooves seem to trap dirt and mold.
Strip and Brighten is the easiest way to prep this. If you sand instead, clean and brighten after to open the pores. Sanding tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
TWP is much better than Cabot.
Thanks. Clean and brighten and stain immediately after sanding okay then? No need to weather it again after sanding?
No need.
Awesome, thanks
Installed new red cedar decking last fall. I used the RAD cleaner and brightner yesterday. This morning the deck has white blotches aroung the knots and some on the boards. I misread the brightner instructions and did the entire decking at one time rather than a litlle at a time. What can I do to resolve this? Thanks.
That is oxidation that was not fully removed. You can redo the Cleaner and Brightener prep buy typically it is not an issue nor does not show when stained. It is normal for knots to stain lighter in color.
After my post I used clean water and a stiff brush to go over a small section. There is this ‘gunk’ that comes up. I can wipe it up with a sponge. Is there value in removing this? Which choice (remove ‘oxidation’ or not) will leave me with the best, most consistent look with my A/C semi-transparent stain?
It is oxidized wood pulp that is being removed. Giving it a good pressure wash should remove it.
Did a ‘good’ power wash again(no RAD, just water) and it did indeed remove all the gunk. There is a very fine line when power washing.. After all this should I expect to have good/appropriate absorption of the stain in the cedar?
Yep!
I’ve got a 30 yr old deck in fair condition. I hired a guy to work on it 3 years ago who put a Sherman Williams solid paint like stain on it.
It’s peeling off in pieces but some areas are still stuck on.
I plan on power washing it lightly to blow all of the loose stuff off and then use stripper on the parts that didn’t come off.
I’m too old and arthritic to do this again and want to go back to a clear water repellent sealer type again
Is that possible?
Not easy but can be done if patient. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Hello! It’s been about 4/5 years since we’ve bought our house and our deck is certainly ready to be freshly stained/painted, and being that this is our first time doing this solo, I was hoping for some advice. We were thinking about going with a solid stain to help cover some of the imperfections in the wood (unless you think otherwise). We’re trying to determine if a simple clean and application of solid stain will do the trick? Or, if a complete strip is required:
Yes, stick with a solid stain. See here about prep: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
As for the solid stain, look at the RAD Solid stains:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-solid-stain-1-gallon.html
Thanks for the quick reply! And just so I understand, using the stripping agent on all parts of the deck, even on the privacy fence area that still had a solid coat, is necessary before applying the new solid? Or, can you simply stain right over any existing solid that is in good condition?
Best to strip as much as possible so it will have the best foundation for a new coating.
My husband over stained our deck last year. So much stain that it transfers to clothing and feet etc. He used stripper this year which resulted in uneven color, spots, and furry parts of the wood. I read, after we noticed the furry wood, if he had used brightener after stripping he might have avoided the furry wood, not sure if that’s accurate or not but either way he did not. So now we are trying to figure out what to do. We still have stain transferring onto feet and clothing. Do we use stripper and brightener? Do we sand? All of the above? What kind of stain could we apply to not risk any transfer? We also need it durable for kids and dogs. The deck was built in 2019 so it’s newer.
Strip and brighten with Restore A Deck Kits and stain with Restore A Deck Stains or TWP Stains. You want a full-curing stain so it does not transfer or rub off. Stay away from stains like Ready Seal that have issues of rubbing off.
Thank you so much! Ready seal is exactly what we had used.
I could tell 🙂
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ready-seal-wood-and-deck-stain-review/
Can I purchase these products in a store or online order only? Also, I see there are gel booster products sold separately, would this be needed?
Only only. No need for the gel or booster for this strip job.
Hi Scott,
I sure could use your expertise! My deck has some serious issues due to mold. Most areas get very little sun so rain and snow have done a number on the horizontal surfaces. I believe it is all pressure treated wood. The railings appear to be in very good shape. The deck is 30+ years old and currently has a semi-transparent water based stain. I want to change to a different brand of a solid water based stain.
I need guidance on the best way to prep for staining. Not sure if horizontal surfaces need stripping or sanding. Can I just clean the vertical surfaces as they are in good shape?
I would also appreciate tips on how to try and avoid mildew in the future, if that is even possible.
See thsi about recoating with a solid stain for prep tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Hi Scott,
My redwood fence is 7 years old and it’s time for a little TLC. A couple sprinklers were hitting the fence and washed the boards out. I power washed the fence but the lighter areas from the sprinklers are still there. It previously had a transparent stain of SuperDeck, oil based. I am planning to stain it with TWP 1502. My thought is that a semi transparent stain will help hide the discoloration. Is that the correct approach? After power washing, the fence came out clean with no mold or mildew issues. I thought a brightener will help even out the boards as well. Do I need a stripper of cleaner prior to the brightener? I have a lot of fence. Realistically how much coverage will I get with 5 gallons.
Thanks for the help,
Chris