Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stripping prep. My wood prepping help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
- Proper deck preparation is the most critical step in staining; most stain failures are caused by poor prep, not the stain itself.
- There are three main prep methods: deck cleaning, deck stripping, and power sanding, sometimes used in combination depending on deck condition.
- Always follow cleaning or stripping with a wood brightener to restore the wood's pH balance and open pores for better stain penetration.
- Deck stain strippers only work on clear sealers and transparent stains; solid stains, paints, and varnish require a paint stripper like RAD PaintStrip.
- When sanding, never use finer than 80-grit sandpaper, as finer grits close wood pores and prevent proper stain absorption.
- After prepping, allow 24 to 48 hours of dry time before staining; applying stain to damp wood is a leading cause of premature failure.
How to Prep a Deck 2026
This has become one of my most popular articles on how to prep your wood deck before applying a wood deck stain. In it, I will help consumers find the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article, with your input and pictures, will help determine the proper way for you to prep.
Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
This is the 2nd most popular question deck owners have on this website, with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain?
Proper deck preparation is the most important step when it comes to staining exterior wood. From my experience restoring decks since 1993, most stain failures are caused by poor prep—not the stain itself.
If the wood is not cleaned, stripped (if needed), and brightened correctly, the stain will not penetrate properly and will fail much sooner than it should.
This guide will help you determine whether your deck needs to be cleaned, stripped, or sanded—and how to prep it correctly before staining.
Proper prep is critical, but choosing the best deck stain afterward is what determines long-term performance.
Easy Pro Steps to Deck Prep
Prepping your deck properly is crucial for a long-lasting and professional-looking stain job. Follow these easy steps to ensure your deck is clean, prepped, and ready for staining!
Choose the Right Prep Method
There are three main ways to prep a deck before staining:
1️⃣ Deck Cleaning + Wood Brightening (For general dirt, mildew, and light stain removal)
2️⃣ Deck Stripping + Wood Brightening (For removing previous stains and coatings)
3️⃣ Power Sanding (For tough coatings like solid stains or paint)
You may also need a combination of these methods depending on your deck’s condition.
🔹 Step 1: Determine Your Deck Condition
Before starting, you need to identify your deck’s current condition. This will determine the proper prep method.
Common Deck Conditions:
- New Wood – Needs weathering and light prep
- Grayed or weathered wood – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Previously stained wood (good condition) – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Failing or peeling stain – Requires stripping or sanding
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔹 Step 2: Cleaning the Deck
Wood and deck cleaners are designed to clean and prep the wood before applying wood stain. Deck cleaners are to remove grime and dirt, oxidation (graying), mold, algae, and, in some cases, deteriorated stains that have failed. However, they do not remove old stains or paint. Deck cleaners will “loosen” the dirt and grime so you can scrub or lightly pressure wash the wood without damage. Most deck cleaners will slightly darken or raise the pH of the wood, so following with a deck brightener is needed.
🔹 How It Works:
- Cleans wood by loosening dirt and grime
- Prepares wood for a fresh stain application
- Darkens the wood slightly, requiring a wood brightener afterward
🔹 Pro Tip: Avoid bleach-based deck cleaners like Olympic Deck Cleaner, 30 Seconds Deck Cleaner, and Behr Deck Cleaners. These can damage wood fibers and harm the environment.
🔹 How To Deck Cleaning Tips
- Use a quality wood deck cleaner
- Apply evenly and allow proper dwell time
- Pressure wash for heavily soiled areas
- Rinse thoroughly
Cleaning alone is not enough—you must follow with a brightener.
📌 More Info: Deck Cleaner Reviews
👉 Deck Cleaning Tips
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 3: Brightening the Wood
Brightening is a critical step that many homeowners skip.
- Restores natural wood color
- Neutralizes the wood after cleaning
- Opens the pores for better stain penetration
- Helps ensure even stain color
Skipping this step can lead to blotchy or uneven results.
👉 Deck Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-is-a-deck-brightener-and-why-use-one/
🔹 Step 4: Stripping the Deck (When Needed)
Deck stain strippers remove old coatings like clear sealers, transparent stains, and some semi-transparent stains. They are not effective on solid stains, paints, or varnish coatings. They are not designed to remove solid color opaque stains or paints. In addition, coatings that have a varnish-like shine cannot be stripped with a deck stain stripper. Deck strippers work on your old stain by softening the old coating to be heavily scrubbed or pressure-washed off. For a stripper to be effective, it needs to penetrate the coating and soften the bond between the coating and the wood. If it cannot penetrate the coating, it will not work. Deck stain stripper will significantly darken the wood, so a wood brightener is necessary to lighten the wood and restore the pH balance.
🔹 How It Works:
- Softens old stain coatings
- Allows for easy removal via scrubbing or pressure washing
- Darkens the wood, requiring a wood brightener to restore the pH balance
🔹 Pro Tip:
If you have a solid stain, deck paint, or varnish, use a paint stripper like RAD PaintStrip.
📌 More Info: Deck Stripper Reviews
🎥 Watch My How-To Strip a Deck Stain Video
🔹 You should strip your deck if:
- Stripping is required when old coatings are preventing proper absorption
- The old stain is peeling or uneven
- The coating is a solid or heavy film
- You are changing stain brands or the type of stain
- Removes old coatings for better penetration
- May require multiple applications
- Must be followed by brightening
👉 How to Strip a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stripping-removing-an-old-deck-stain/
🔹 Step 5: Sanding (When Necessary)
Sanding is usually a last resort if stripping doesn’t fully remove the old coating. If you need to sand off a solid stain or paint, it is best to start with 40 or 60-grit sandpaper, which is the best option for stripping old finishes. Never sand finer than 80 grit paper. Sanding finer than 80 grit may close the pores and prevent stains from penetrating. See here for more Deck Sanding tips.
Sanding is sometimes needed, but should not be your first option.
- Use when wood is rough, splintered, or heavily coated
- Helps smooth the surface if it’s very rough
Important: Over-sanding can reduce stain penetration. never sand finer than 60-80 grit.
🔹 Best Practices for Sanding:
- Use 40-60 grit sandpaper for stripping old finishes
- Never sand finer than 80 grit (this closes wood pores and prevents stain absorption)
- Spot-sand raised fibers or splinters if needed
🔹 Pro Tip: You can lightly spot hand sand to remove splinters or raised wood fibers. If you have furring of the wood grain, see this article. Deck Furring after Prep.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 6: Dry Time Before Staining
After prep, the wood must dry completely unless using the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
- Allow 24–48 hours depending on weather
- Wood should feel dry to the touch
- Moisture content should be low
Staining damp wood is one of the most common causes of failure.
🔹 Recommended Deck Prep Products
Using the right products at each stage will make a huge difference in your final results.
For Cleaning and Brightening:
- Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System (top choice for prep)
For Stripping (if needed):
- Restore-A-Deck deck stain strippers (depending on coating type)
For Staining:
- Penetrating oil-based stains (TWP, Armstrong Clark)
- Water-based stains (Restore-A-Deck)
👉 Best Deck Stains
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
🔹 Common Deck Prep Mistakes
From my experience, these are the most common mistakes:
- Skipping the brightener step
- Not removing old coatings fully
- Over-sanding with too fine a grit
- Not allowing enough dry time
Avoiding these mistakes will significantly improve your results.
🔹 Final Thoughts on Deck Prep
Proper deck prep is the foundation of any successful staining project. No matter how good the stain is, it will not perform correctly without proper preparation.
From my hands-on experience, taking the time to clean, strip (if needed), and brighten your deck correctly will result in a better-looking finish that lasts longer and requires less maintenance.
If you follow these steps, your stain will perform the way it should, and your deck will be much easier to maintain over time.
Pressure Washing Tips for Deck Cleaning or Stripping
Power washing can speed up the deck cleaning process, but it should only be used by those with experience. Improper use can damage the wood and result in costly repairs. If you do choose to use a power washer, follow these guidelines to avoid harming your deck:
-
Always use a deck cleaner or deck stain stripper first. These products do 90% of the cleaning work. The power washer should only be used to rinse off the loosened grime—not as the main cleaning method.
-
Treat the power washer like a rinse tool, not a scrub brush. Use it to gently wash away the cleaner or stripper, not to grind dirt off the surface.
-
Use a sweeping, pendulum-style motion. Work with the grain of the wood and never pause or reverse direction without lifting the wand. Failing to maintain a smooth motion can leave permanent “stop marks” in the wood.
-
Keep pressure between 1200–2000 PSI. Even if you’re using a 3000 PSI machine, distance matters. Washing from 8–12 inches away will reduce the effective pressure to a safer level for wood surfaces.
-
Exercise caution. If you’re unsure about your technique or have never used a power washer on wood before, it’s best to hire a professional. Incorrect use can permanently damage your deck.
🔹 Prep by Deck Condition
Not all decks require the same prep process. The key is understanding your deck’s current condition and using the correct method before staining.
From my experience, using the wrong prep method is one of the biggest reasons stains fail early.
🔸 New Wood Decks
New wood cannot be stained right away. It must be properly weathered and prepped to allow the stain to absorb.
- Let wood weather for 3–6 months
- Clean and brighten before staining
- Do not sand too smooth, as this can reduce absorption
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔸 Grayed or Weathered Wood
If your deck has turned gray from sun exposure, it needs to be cleaned and brightened.
- Use a wood cleaner to remove dirt and oxidation
- Follow with a brightener to restore color
- This will help open the wood pores for stain absorption
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔸 Previously Stained Deck (Good Condition)
If your deck has an existing stain that is still in good shape, you can usually clean and recoat.
- Clean and brighten the wood
- Make sure the existing stain is of stain brand and color
- Apply a maintenance coat before full wear
This is the easiest scenario and requires the least amount of prep.
🔸 Peeling or Failing Stain
If your deck has peeling, flaking, or uneven stain, it must be stripped before applying a new coat.
- Use a deck stripper to remove old coatings
- May require multiple applications
- Always follow with a brightener after stripping
Skipping this step will lead to poor results and uneven staining.
👉 How to Strip a Deck Stain
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
🔸 Rough or Splintered Wood
If the wood surface is rough or splintered, sanding may be needed.
- Light sanding can smooth the surface
- Do not over-sand, as it can reduce stain penetration
- Clean and brighten after sanding
Sanding should be used only when necessary, not as a default step.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Prep by Deck Condition
If you are unsure which category your deck falls into, start with cleaning and evaluate how the wood responds. If water does not absorb into the surface, additional prep such as stripping may be needed.
✅ Deck Prep FAQs
🔍 Cleaning & Brightening
Do I need to clean my deck before staining?
Yes. Cleaning removes dirt, mildew, and residue so the new stain can properly penetrate the wood.
Do I have to use a wood brightener after cleaning?
Yes. Brightening restores the wood’s pH balance and helps the stain absorb evenly. Skipping this step can lead to blotchy results.
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🧱 Stripping vs Cleaning
How do I know if my deck needs to be stripped?
If the old stain is peeling, uneven, or water does not absorb into the wood, stripping is usually required. It is also needed when switching stain brands or types.
Can I just clean and recoat my deck without stripping?
Yes, but only if the existing stain is in good condition and compatible with the new stain. Otherwise, stripping is recommended.
🪵 Sanding
Should I sand my deck before staining?
Only if necessary. Sanding is typically used for rough wood or failed coatings. Over-sanding can reduce stain penetration.
⏳ Drying & Timing
How long should I wait to stain after cleaning the deck?
Wait 24–48 hours, depending on weather conditions, to ensure the wood is fully dry before staining.
What happens if I stain a damp deck?
Staining damp wood can lead to poor penetration, uneven color, and premature failure.
⚠️ Common Mistakes
What is the most common mistake when prepping a deck?
Skipping the brightener step or failing to fully remove old coatings before staining.
🆕 New Deck Prep
Do I need to prep new wood before staining?
Yes. New wood should be properly weathered, cleaned, and brightened before applying stain.
👉 Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🛠 Process & Order
What is the correct order for prepping a deck?
- ✔ Clean (or strip if needed)
- ✔ Brighten
- ✔ Let the wood dry
- ✔ Apply stain
👉 How to Stain a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-stain-a-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Deck Prepping
From my experience, proper prep is what determines how long your stain will last. If you take shortcuts here, the stain will fail early no matter how good the product is.
Deck Prepping Product Articles
What is the best way to prep my Deck?
I will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers, I can help you determine the best way to prep your Deck before applying a deck stain.
- New Wood or Older Wood?
- Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
- Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
- Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
- What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
- Mold or Mildew Issues?
- Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
- You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Post a comment below and include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional useful information!
I sanded my cedar deck with 60 grit than 80. It previously had restore a deck stain on it. I’m going to restain it with the same stain. I still need to use the restore a deck cleaner and brightner. I was wondering if I should use a stripper to get the rest of the stain off. Problem is I do not have any stripper if you recommend stripping what do you recommend for a stripper in Canada
No need to strip, just clean and brighten. One coat of the stain since you power sanded the wood.
How long should I wait for deck to dry after using cleaner and brightener before staining? How long does it take for restore a deck stain to dry when applied?
You can apply the RAD stain to dry or damp wood:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood
Dries in 4-6 hours. Cures in 24 hours.
Hi Scott – thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I recently moved into this home and the previously home owner previously stained it with a semi-transparent waterproofing stain from Home Depot. I’d like to refinish this in a dark brown stain. Would you recommend stripping or sanding it? Secondly, we got some steps that weren’t previously stained – how should I handle those? Thanks a million!
Strip and brighten for the stained areas. Sand if needed to remove and stubborn areas. Clean and brighten for the unstained wood.
Hi Scott- Your articles are very helpful. I would appreciate advice on how best to prep and restain my deck this year so I don’t have to redo it every 2 years. I live in NYS Finger Lakes region so we have restrictions on product availability.
Made of New Wood or Older Wood? Pressure treated lumber and built 26 years ago.
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
In 2020 I cleaned the deck with Armor deck cleaner and a power washer to remove dirt and some peeling stain. Then decided to
sand it to the bare wood with commercial floor and hand sanders. I did not use a brightener. In 2020 and again in 2022 (because it was wearing off) I stained with Benjamin Moore Arborcoat oil based Translucent (Natural) stain. In 2024 I restained with Cabot Australian Timber Oil Translucent (Jarrah Brown) oil based. Before staining I washed with water, Tide and a deck brush and let it dry a few days.
Prior to 2020 we used water based stains.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? That depends on your recommendation.
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil based – Translucent
Mold or Mildew Issues? – No
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? –Not sure. It was peeling up in certain areas, moreso in the shady half than the half that gets more sun.
The spindles and vertical surfaces last several years. The floor and railing tops start to peel after about a year.
Photos- first one (with hose in upper corner) is before I power washed it. Other 3 photos are after I power washed it using only water to get peeling and loose stain off.
No stain will last longer than 2-3 years on a deck floor. Because of this, it is best to use a penetrating stain that can be cleaned and reapplied as needed. Stay away from any filming stains as they will continue to peel.
Your biggest issue will be removing the current coatings. It will not be easy as they are over-applied. Use the RAD stain stripper with both additives and pressure wash off. Sand if needed to get teh rest off and then brighten all wood when done.
Best stain options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
if I plan on sanding the deck to remove old solid stain do I still need to clean the deck with a deck cleaner first? Wouldn’t I use a deck cleaner / wood brightener after removing the old stain with sanding? My plan was to remove the old stain with 60 grit Then use the cleaner/brightened than sand again with the 80grit once the deck is dry from cleaning.
No need to clean first unless really dirty. After sanding, clean and brighten for final prep. Do not sand after the final cleaning.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
TWP – I hired a contractor to stain a gazebo and steps in my backyard. The gazebo has not been stained for at least 10 years. After the contractor stained the gazebo I noticed it looked very uneven. I pointed this out and they told me it was because some boards are more porous than others. I feel like they didn’t complete the correct prep. I’ve attached photos of before and after stain. The stain is TWP California Redwood. Any feedback you have would be great! I would like the gazebo stained correctly.
He’s correct. The wood itself is the issue, as it is older and very porous. In the darker areas, the wood is that way internally, and the TWP stains cannot make it lighter, nor would the prep.
Thank you. So even though I’ve read that if old boards are prepped properly they can stain, it’s not the case for all?
As we mentioned, it is internal disocloration. Prep cannot change or fix this.
TWP Stain California Redwood
We have a 9+ year old 600 sq. ft. exposed cedar deck in Bend, Oregon that we treated 3 years ago with a mix of 50% Boiled Linseed oil and 50% Mineral spirits after sanding the deck. At that time we did not go back and dry mop so there were some spots that were tacky at the end of the process and stayed that way for that summer. This May we are going to re-stain the deck with TWP 100 stain series. The wood, 95 % weathered and gray, is in good condition with just a few boards needing replacement. The other 5% under the eaves still shows some of the look from the original linseed/mineral spirits treatment. We are planning to sand the deck (we sanded a small piece and it looks good). We would like your thoughts on the prep process considering the treatment 3 years ago and about the TWP 100 series product for our deck in general.
Add some pics in the comments for prep advice.
We just had a down pour last night so the deck is wet. Thanks
We would suggest stripping and brightening all for the prep here. Use this kit:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
TWP 100 Series is an excellent stain.
I need to know if I should clean or strip.
1. Cedar decking is 3-4 years old.
2. Stained with Cabot Australian Timber Oil – natural color
3. Applying a maintenance coat with same brand and color
4. Deck was stained about 2 years ago
5. About 60% of the original stain is still there. The other 40% is bare wood.
6. No mold or mildew issues.
7. Previous coat is simply wearing off in high traffic areas.
Pics of the current condition? You can add in comments.
I have 8 year old cedar decks. 5 years ago, they were stained (poorly, not by me) with Sikkens. Looked terrible, I hate that stuff! We just finished sanding it all away—a big job, considering the main deck is covered. Unfortunately, it’s going to rain for the next 4 days. The forecast says we will get a week of dry weather after the rain.
We covered the railings with loose plastic. Will we need to re-sand everything? What will 4 days of rain do? Or can just move forward with allowing the deck to dry before we clean and brighten with RAD and then stain?
Additionally, I bought 2 stains just to make sure I had them—would you recommend RAD semi-transparent cedar or Armstrong-Clark semi-transparent cedar? I’m in the PNW.
No need to sand or cover. Rain will not harm anything. As for the stain, both the AC and RAD stains are very good. Only one coat of the stain since you sanded the wood.
Should 10y/o PT decking (above ground rated) be cleaned + stripped + brightened or just cleaned + brightened? It was never stained or painted, it just has the original orange-colored ACQ PT coating that’s used in the West and PNW regions on it.
Add some pics in the comments.
Hopefully these pics work. None of the boards have been stained, they’re all above ground rated PT lumber but clearly not all the same age. My goal here is to try and get a more uniform appearance from the deck down to the dock and I’m not quite sure how to tackle the orange pressure treated wood.
Clean and brighten the gray flooring for prep. Strip and brighten the orange wood to remove as much of the factory coating as possible.
Strip and brighten for the prep. Look at this kit:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
As for the Cabot ATO, be wary as the formula has changed over the years, and it is not as good as it used to be:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cabot-australian-timber-oil-review/
Hi from Alberta, Canada. I appreciate your helpful posts and would be grateful for advice on how to prep this arbour and small porch and what product you’d recommend for restaining. Thank you!
If switching stain brands, you will need to remove the Sikkens fully. Strip, sand if needed, and then brighten the wood.
Thanks, Scott. If I get the same Sikkens product, what prep would you suggest? I see us being able to thoroughly prep the posts and porch but anticipate some trouble accessing the top of the arbour (may just need to do our best reaching up between the slats).
Use a high-quality deck cleaner and pressure washing. The goal is to remove all the dirt and mildew. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
Yes, doing the top is not going to be easy.
Thanks!
* New Wood or Older Wood? Older wood
* Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes, but not properly applied over 3 years ago
* Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? switching brands from BEHR PREMIUM®SEMI-TRANSPARENT WATERPROOFING STAIN & SEALER redwood to TWP 1500 Series Pecan
* Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. – BEHR PREMIUM®SEMI-TRANSPARENT WATERPROOFING STAIN & SEALER redwood
* What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Oil based BEHR PREMIUM®SEMI-TRANSPARENT WATERPROOFING STAIN & SEALER
* Mold or Mildew Issues? – very little, mostly dirt
* Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Not applied correctly, only pressure washed – no cleaner or anything, and only one coat with not full coverage
Are you sure it’s the oil-based version of Behr? If so, use this kit:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
Yes it is. Got it confirmed. Thank you.
👍
I need to prepare my older small wood deck to apply a stain. It is on the third floor of the condo, so accessibility to water to clean and brighten the wood is impossible. Would sanding do the job? The wood is painted not stained and currently the paint is bubbling up. Thanks, Terri
See this for how to sand a deck:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
how to get redwood fence stain off of concrete
That will vary based on the stain brand and type of stain. Might want to contact the manufacturer of the stain directly for help.
Hi, I’m looking to cover my old deck with Cabot Deck Correct, and mostly want to know if I need to remove all old solid stain. Wonder if you’ve had experience with this product. The facts:
Old PT wood.
Has some remaining solid stain after pressure washing.
Looking to cover old Behr Deck Plus solid color acrylic latex that is about 5 years old with a darker color Cabot Deck Correct.
There was mildew, but washed off fine.
Reason for failure was constantly changing NE weather, and age. Wood is at least 20 years old and looking to get another 2-3 years out of it before fully replacing. No rotting boards.
Photos show the cracks I’m looking to fill and mask with the Deck Correct. Some boards show the existing stain is pretty intact, these were boards protected by a roof overhang. The rest of the surfaces got about 75% cleaned of the stain after cleaning and pressure washing.
I don’t want to have a bad prep. I assume I need the RAD paints strip for the stubborn areas, but not looking forward to sanding.
Thanks!
We would not suggest the Cabot Deck Correct. It has very poor reviews from consumers on this site. Most deck resurface coatings do not work very well:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deckover-olympic-rescue-it-rust-oleum-deck-restore-do-they-work/
As for removing all the current solid stain, it is best to follow the directions of the coating manufacturer you end up using.
For prep, use the Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper with both gel and booster additives. Brightener would be last.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product-category/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-strippers-and-additives/
Do you want stain suggestions? Do you want a solid stain, a penetrating semi-transparent, or a semi-solid?
I would appreciate some recommendations on both the kind of stain as well as a best brand selection. I love the look of the semi-transparent, but want to provide the best protection given the age of the deck and the sometimes extreme weather here in the Hill Country of Texas.
We like penetrating semi-transparent stains best. See here for options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Thanks for the info. Now, there’s a plan!
See this article for tips on recoating with a solid color stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Thanks so much for your help! I have used your site for years.
I would also love to know what stripper/brightener I need to prep the deck for the new stain.
To strip off TWP stains, you would need this kit:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
1. Old wood (~11 years), with exception of one railing 4×4 that had to be replaced.
2. No Current Coatings (waterproofing applied ~7-8 yrs ago)
3. N/A (no coatings)
4. No stains, unknown waterproofing brand.
5. No stains
6. Slight mold issues in nail holes/btwn planks, but mostly scrubbed off.
7. No stains used to date.
8. Pics, see attached (before/after scrubbing, mold).
Scott –
I’d love your advice, particularly after reading your deckover reviews (that’s out now!).
I’ve got a large pecan tree that looms over the deck, providing lots of shade, but also lots of dirt, leaves, pollen, and pecans that can stain. I’ve scrubbed the deck to get rid of the dirt, but haven’t used any cleaner or brightener yet. Goal is to coat (stain/paint) to blend/hide the stains, but also protect/extend the life of the deck.
Again, I’d love your input.
Prep with this kit while pressure washing:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-package-300/
Copy that.
Afterward, do you think I’m good with semi-transparent stain (following your two-toned article)?
Yes, it will look great!
I have begun the process of refurbishing our front porch. It has been power washed and now I am confused, too much internet info, how to remove the old stain. I do not know what the previous homeowner used or how long ago. It has been over 7 years ago. I am going to re-stain using Cabot Gold moonlit mahogany. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Kent
Strip and brighten for prep:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stripping-removing-an-old-deck-stain/
Use this kit:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
There are many better stains than Cabot.
Can you recommend a stain that will give the effect of an indoor wood floor? Oil or water based makes no difference to me. Looking for the best appearance and most durable finish. We are going with a dark mahogany type color as we are painting the rails, rail caps and posts white and staining the deck and balusters dark.
Thank you for your time and advice!!!
You cannot have an outdoor stain that resembles an interior hardwood floor. They cannot be “shiny” when outside, as that will lead to peeling and blistering.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/your-deck-is-not-a-hardwood-floor/
Two-toned tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/advantages-to-having-a-two-toned-deck/
As you can see with the attached pictures, our deck is large & not all uniform – mixture of old(original) boards w/ heavy solid stain (peeling up and can remove in large strips) new replacement boards on upper deck. Lower deck (pool) boards are only about 5-6 years old & need stripped & re-stained (solid stain)
I am trying to complete the full deck at one time – the refresh & uniformity of the solid stain. I did purchase an airless sprayer to utilize on the vertical boards. During my research I have learned that I will need to dilute the solid stain to go in sprayer & for the first coat on the new deck boards. I have deck cleaner, pressure washer & 5 gallons of the solid stain already.
Any time line or order of operations you recommend to make this as least stressful, cost effective and streamlined as possible will be greatly appreciated.
If you want to recoat with a solid stain, see here for prep tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Never dilute a solid stain. A solid stain can be easily applied with an airless sprayer without the need for dilution.
Behr Deckover has one of the worst ratings on our site:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deckover-review-updated/
I live in Alberta, Canada and my fence is about 12 years old. It’s pressure treated lumber and I’m fairly certain it’s never been stained. I have pressure washed it. One side gets a LOT of sun and there was a ton of grey in the fence boards that for the most part came out when pressure washing. The other side doesn’t get as much sun but there is a definite color difference on the two side of the fence in the backyard. The one side is VERY light colored (almost a pine color now that it’s been washed) and the other side is a brown/orange color even after being washed. I’m looking to brighten up the fence and protect it and start a maintenance routine as the previous owners never did.
I believe this is due to UV exposure. Once stained, it should all even out. Similar to when it was wet with water.
Ok amazing! Even though I pressure washed it already, should I still use a cleaner on it? I’ve also noticed some “fuzzies” in some areas; google search is saying to just stand that off with some 80 grit? I’m thinking of going with a semi-solid, low VOC TWP stain in their “Super Cedar” color. Because I’m in Canada, I’m limited to products, but would this be a good choice for starting a bi-annual maintenance schedule for the fence?
The TWP VOC semi-solid will work great on this fence and will last 3-4 years. It wouldn’t hurt to clean and brighten it beforehand. No need to sand.
Since logistically (for reasons of physical intricacy of the structure, our age, $$ restrictions and most of a 5-gallon bucket leftover from a more recent purchase) I suspect we’re locked into re-applying the same Behr product, what is the best approach to trying to get the re-application to stick to the bared wood at least as well as it did the first time?
The Behr is sitting on top of the wood like a solid stain. You are correct, this would not be an easy strip. To recoat, strip off what you can and apply a new coat over the old stain and bare spots. You will have some unevennesses, though, but it can’t be avoided.
Brighten after to neutralize.
New pressure treated pine last year, cleaned/brightened with RAD, stained with AC semitransparent… beautiful! Cleaned/brightened with RAD today used fan tip contraption that attached to garden hose (less powerful than the pressure washer). Looks blotchy and seeing shoe prints after drying. What do I do now?!!! I’m afraid that staining as is will not turn out well.
Thank you for what you do for people like me!
You half-prepped it. To get it even (and so it stains evenly), use the Restore-A-Deck Stain stripper and the brightener again.
Deck prep
Answers to the 8 questions
1-3yrs old
2-Yes
3-Maintenance coat same brand color
4-Super Deck
5-Solid
6-No issues
7-Before last stain cleaned w/dawn & oxi clean and used deck whitener
8- Pics attached first pic is the worst area
Thanks
You have a solid opaque stain. See prep tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
And the best solid color deck stain options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Built deck in 2020 with pressure treated spruce. Let it weather for 12 months and followed with a clean/brighten/spot sand the next season and application of Armstrong Clark Transparent deck stain (Natural tone). By fall the deck started turning black. Retailer suggested UV damage due to no pigment so the following season I cleaned/brightened and sanded the whole deck and applied Armstrong Clark in a cedar tone. Again the deck turned black so I attempted to clean it the following year with the retailers cleaner/brigtener and it would seemingly pull the stain out as well as if the stain was not penetrating the wood and was trapping mold. I tried some 30 Second mold cleaner and it immediately cleared up the mold but also pulled the stain and left some bleaching (did this before seeing you tip to avoid that product). I am looking to move to something water based and know have to again strip/sand/brighten but what do I need to do to ensure the new product penetrates (full mold treatment prior to staining???). The hours that this takes (500 sq feet plus stairs and skirting) makes this quite frustrating so I want to be sure I am prepping properly. My neighbour across street built deck and used same stain the same season and has had similar problems.
Water-based stains will not promote mildew growth, but no stain will prevent it from growing on top of their coatings. For the best penetrating water-based stain, use the RAD stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
For mildew and mold prevention, you can add this on top of your stain after it has dried and cured:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/rad-guard-mildew-cleaner-preventer-1-gallon/
Thanks – any idea why the stain seemed to never penetrate the wood?
It probably penetrated just fine, and I doubt that was the issue. It could just be an issue with your environment and mildew/mold being prone in the area.
I had a company Pro Woodcare stain my deck every 2 or 3 years for the last 20 years. My deck is in good shape. They use a linseed oil based product call PWC 1000 (I assume it is their brand or they take an existing brand and put their name on it). Their pricing has gotten too expensive so I plan on doing the job myself. I plan on using a linseed oil based stain like Armstrong Clark. My question is do I need to strip and brighten since I am using a different stain or can I just clean and brighten since I am using also using a linseed oil based stain?
Stripping and brightening when switching deck stain brands is best.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stripping-removing-an-old-deck-stain/
Thank you for the quick response. One more follow up question. Since I’m stripping, does it really matter whether I go with another linseed oil based stain? If not would you recommend TWP100 or Armstrong Clark?
You can use any oil-based stain when you strip. Both TWP 100/1500 Series and AC will have some linseed oil in them.
Our deck was built in fall 2023. We cleaned and stained it with TWP 100 Pro Series stain in spring 2024. Our cleaning this year (with Restore a deck) caused some of the stain to gum up and rinse off. Why would it have done that? Was it an issue with the stain application or the cleaning? (I know the cleaning wasn’t quite right – it dried very quickly, though I did my best to keep things damp until rinsing.)
Most likely, since it was new wood, the TWP never fully soaked into the wood grain but dried on top of the wood. This could be due to the prep last year or application.
I just had a deck installed and i am currently in the process of sanding it down with 60 grit to get a smooth finish along with rounding off the sharp edges. The deck is pine and less than 2 months old. Do I need to still use a deck cleaner before using the brightening agent?
From your articles (thanks so much btw) It looks like i am going to lean towards a semi- transparent oil-based stain. i bought a 2 3/4 Wooster stain brush along with a Shur line 9-inch pad. I am going with a darker stain for the boards and railings, with a lighter stain for the spindles. Any suggestions on the brands I should go with. looking for a medium walnut look for the darker sections but if you have recommendations i would greatly appreciate it. Thanks! Don’t have many pics now but i sent before and after close up pics of before and after sanding. I plan to run a sander quickly over the boards to get rid of splinters and imperfections along with using wood puddy to close up the screw holes. There are some large gaps for which i plan to put in shims, and wood puddy to close up and sand down. Thanks again!
See this about new wood first:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
After proper weathering, clean and brighten for prep.
Never use wood filler on a deck. It will not work and will not “stain” to blend. Sanding is not the best way to prep as it closes the wood pores and reduces stain penetration.
When ready, look at Armstrong Clark Stains or TWP 1500 Series.
Much appreciated. can you tell if it is smooth, rough or KDAT wood? thanks again
You have smooth wood.
I have been using Flood CWF oil. It turns black like it’s collecting dirt. In 4 years on a new treated wood deck I’ve used deck cleaner and pressure washed it and reapplied the same product. It’s prepared again and I have 2 gallons of product but am looking for something that stays looking better. It’s hard to clean the cwf off? I thought the oil would be better than a water based product but am disappointed.
You will need to remove it entirely and start over with a stain that won’t darken or turn black over time. Post some pics for prep help in comments.
I plan to sand it to remove raised grain (fuzz) from heavy pressure washing. Pics won’t load.
You should be good to stain after the sanding. FYI, never sand finer than 60-80 grit for a deck:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Look at TWP 1500 Series or Restore A Deck Semi-transparent. Neither will darken in color.
Hi, I have a deck that was finished in early April 2024. I’d like to stain it in the next couple of weeks while the weather is around 60 degrees. Do you recommend I sand the deck prior to staining? Or should I skip the sanding because it’s so new and could potentially close up pores and prevent stain from sinking in. Also, what other steps should I take prior to staining? Should I clean the deck? Anything else I should do? Very new to this but don’t mind putting in the extra effort to get a great finish!
You would want to clean and brighten for prep. Only sand if needed after to remove any furring that can happend when removing gray oxidation. Look at Restore A Deck cleaner and brightener kits.
Thank you. I live in Charlotte, NC so it gets pretty hot/humid in the summer. I’d also like to clean, brighten and stain all in one weekend if possible. Do you recommend a specific type of stain for my region? Semi- transparent? How do I choose what VOC? Here’s a picture of my deck. I believe it’s pressure treated wood but not 100% what kind.
Hi Scott,
I am really happy to come across this website and great deal of information contained here. Thank you for doing such an amazing job. I have two different projects that I would love your opinion on:
Any particular stain colors that you think would look good on these?
Thank you in advance,
Karen
Both areas need to be stripped and brightened for prep. Look at Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits with both additives while pressure washing:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
As for the stain, try the Restore A Deck Stains or Armstrong Clark stains.
Hi Scott, thank you for your reply. I have a couple of follow-up questions. For the gazebo which is next to the pool and gets constantly splashed with chlorine water, is there any additional protection that I can use on top of stain to ensure that the posts last longer? Can you recommend any such protector that can be applied?
My next question is about the pressure during washing the fence? What psi would you recommend and should I put the cleaner in the pressure washer or apply it separately?
One last question, how do you recommend applying the stain? Any specific brushes, rollers or sprayer that work the best? Do I need to wipe of the excess?
Thanks so much for your help.
Hi Scott,
I found your website and appreciate all of the information. I have already learned a lot. We are struggling with a 20 year-old pine deck at a mountain cabin in North Carolina, zone 8a. Rain water and some mildew mainly a concern on side portion which is not roof protected. Otherwise, side and back get a fair bit of sun. We are uncertain about the current product that is on the deck, as we bought the cabin 3 years ago, but it looks like a semi transparent stain. Unknown brand and don’t know if it is water or oil based. We have cleaned the deck and plan to use brightener on it and then refresh it with a semi transparent or solid stain. We have replaced some boards with pressure treated pine and want to go ahead and do the deck now minus the new boards. We have hand sanded some areas.
1. Do we need to remove all of the existing stain that is still present in some locations of the porch where there has not been as much wear and tear?
2. What product would you recommend? Here We don’t care about seeing the grain of the wood since it is old but don’t want to run into more problems with something like a paint, which could potentially trap water and peel.
Thank you so much for your educational website and feedback!
Carol
If you want to use a semi-transparent, then you will need to fully remove the old coating by sanding and or stripping. The other option would be to apply a solid stain over the top but it will look opaque and nto show the wood grain.
Which do you prefer to do?
Ok, then we would want to do a solid stain. Any suggestions on color and brand of both the brightener and stain?
I personally would like it to “stand out “ a bit but will defer to any suggestions you have! The cabin wood color has a bit of a warm undertone.
It would be great to be able to use the brightener and stain all in one weekend since the cabin is a couple of hours away for us. I read of one product that you reviewed that allowed for application of stain even if deck was “damp”
Thank you so much for your generosity of time and help!!! Super rare these days!
Carol
Look at Restore A Deck for prep and solid stain.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-solid-color-stain-review/
Thank you in advance for your help and support!! Great website. I did read a lot of it.
Getting ready to prep and stain a redwood fence that is 1 year and 9 months after install. Never yet treated with any type of stain. I live in San Jose, CA
I have conflicting top priorities. Mostly, I want the best result and ease of maintenance! I am also chemically sensitive and want to use the most non-toxic cleaning/staining products, now and in the future, while still achieving quality result.
Questions regarding prep:
I tried Oxiclean solution, on one fence board and small portion of lattice, as touted on certain websites before finding yours (1/4 scoop to 4 cups water – stir, wet fence, apply with brush, let sit 5-10, scrub & rinse). It darkened wood, so I abandoned. Do you know why? See 6th board in from left on first photo.
After that I simply power washed and scrubbed with a brush. No cleaner. It came out pretty good as photos show. If I just stain “as is” rather than use cleaner and brightener, as you recommend, would I still get good result? Drawbacks?
I did not power wash lattice portion due to intruding on neighbors side yard. It has black streak marks from the staples staining. Options for removal? Can sanding suffice?
Which of the recommended cleaning products is the most non-toxic friendly? If you don’t use brightener, what happens after using cleaner?
How long after cleaning, can you wait to stain before having to clean again?
Thanks much.
-Oxiclean darkens/raises the pH of the wood. You must use a brightener after to restore the pH and lighten the color.
-The staples are rusting. You can remove some of the black with a brightener but they will continue to rust in the future. You cannot sand this out.
-You have to use a brightener after using the Cleaner.
Best options for cleaner and brightener are the RAD products.
Here are pictures of my porch steps from the top and then from the bottom.
URGENT HELP!
I live in rainy northwest Vancouver, and I have a west-facing cedar porch steps with risers that are 2 years old that had been stained with an oil alkyd hybrid from Cloverdale Shark Skin: translucent wood stain cedar tone (Canadian brand). It had faded in sun after 1st year, and 2nd year, trafficked areas had worn off.
Unfortunately, I decided to sand instead of using stripper (before I read your articles). I sanded EVERY OTHER step, and then my sander broke. I fixed it, but now I don’t really have time to do the rest because the rainy weather has set in. This week I have a VERY narrow window where there are 2 days (Thursday & Friday) of 70% humidity I can get stain down. What should I do?
Finish the prep and stain in the spring. You will be fine until then. Stay away from any Home Depot, Menards, or Lowes brands. They are all very poor.
Here is the deck
Hi Scott,
We have a “new construction” deck that has sat unstained for 2 years. Pressure treated 2 by 6 wood with no stain or coating on it. We see some cracking, minimal cupping, but boards are uneven in places due to poor construction. We recently replaced some of the worst boards. There is no mold or mildew. We have a power planer we have used in some spots to even out adjacent boards. We need to know if we should sand down the whole deck and/or power wash, then what type of stain for full sun. Appreciate your expert advice!
Let the new wood weather for 3-4 months, clean and brighten all wood, then stain with a penetrating stain like Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 Series.
Thank you for this site!!
Much older
It’s hard to tell – probably not
Switching
Unknown
None or unknown
Yes quite a bit – we’re using oxiclean with water and a little dish soap and a scrubber followed by light power washing to clean it – we’re doing several rounds of that to get it cleaned up. We live in upstate New York which is snowy, windy and rainy.
If it was stained, it has been at least a dozen years since it was cleaned or treated. We bought the house 9 years ago and don’t know the history of the deck.
Questions: Are we using the right mixture to clean it? What would be the best semitransparent stain to use?
Use a deck cleaner not oxiclean. A proper deck cleaner has additional ingredients that will aid in wood cleaning. We like the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit. Apply and pressure wash off.
For the best stains, see here:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
I live in northern CA and installed a three level redwood deck in full sun about 20 years ago. Prior to installation, I coated all surfaces with Superdeck oil based stain in redwood color. Two years ago, I decided to refinish the deck as the redwood had weathered considerably. I removed all the deck boards, flipped them over, and ran them through a planer to remove any old stain and expose a “fresh” surface. I then stained the “fresh” surface with TWP 1502 (redwood color). The results were very good even though the color was a bit on the orange side. The plan was to then restain one level each year to maintain the deck. This year I decided to restain one of the levels because the stain was beginning to wear off. I purchased some more TWP 1502 and tested the color by staining a few of the stair treads. I first cleaned the boards with a stiff bristle brush to remove any loose stain and dirt. The result was a very dark red color. I then sanded the boards to again expose a “fresh” surface. This time the color was lighter but still darker than the color from two years ago. Is there a way to lighten/brighten the stain so as to better match the color of the other
two levels?
You can lighten the TWP Redwood color by adding TWP Clear or Honeytone color to it.
Hi Scott,
We have a situation on our hands! We had a pressure-treated wood deck installed one year ago. We let it weather, cleaned it, and brightened it.
Before staining the deck, the contractor used Bondo to fill knots and any minor imperfection in the deck; more repair was done than necessary, in hindsight I would have done no repair.
He then tested the penetrating oil-based translucent stain (natural color) on a board and realized that the stain would not cover the grey Bondo… The stain only calls for one coat.
He then removed all the Bondo by hand (mostly scraping) and in the process used an orbital sander on the deck.
The next day (yesterday), he applied the stain. This led to multiple light spots all around most knots on the deck where the Bondo was removed and the deck was sanded.
I called the stain manufacturer, and they said it could be alright to try to add additional stain only to the lighter spots but to first test in a small area. I’d like the deck to look more uniform, and the staining was a big job that took two men a full day to brush on by hand.
Is this the best approach, or is there another path I should take?
Thanks for your help,
Liam
It will not work to blend by spot applying. The only way to get it even is to sand it all evenly and reapply. You will need to remove the current coating fully first, sand all wood evenly with 60-80 grit, apply a new ocating.
Thank you for the response. Is it alright if I wait to strip and sand until the spring, or is it better do it now? The deck has been through a lot in the last week – cleaned, brightened, filled, unfilled, spot sanded, etc. And this fresh coat of stain just applied. Any downside to waiting until spring? Will it weather unevenly, or will the lighter spots catch up to the rest of the deck?
No issues and would be easier to remove/fix in the Spring.
I have a 30 year old pressure treated deck. We recently bought the house and the previous owner only knows that they used a waterproofing stain. It is semi transparent, and wipes off with alcohol. It is a very large deck 12 feet off ground. We do not want to strip, we are in our 80s. I want to clean and brighten and use solid stain, but my husband is concerned it will peel. Half of the deck is covered by an awning and the rest exposed with a basic western exposure, so late beating sun.We live in south central Pa. All advice appreciated
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Post some pics for prep help.
See this for tips on how to coat this with a solid stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
I have read this, but it does not say how to prep over semi transparent stain. I want to avoid stripping but will clean thoroughly. My concern is can I do this and avoid a peeling situation. I would use Restore A deck solid
It is the same thing. Just make sure all current stain is cleaned, any peeling stain is removed, and the left over stain is fully intact before applying the RAD Solid stain.
I have a decent amount of decking that was stained by a recommended contractor with Proluxe (PPG) transparent matte SRD RE. Didn’t last a year and they didn’t prep properly as I observed when they came back to “fix” it and then quit. They pressure washed and then ghosted me.
Can I strip and brighten and try a new stain or will I need to sand?
Deck is 7 years old.
Pressure treated yellow pine. Virginia so heat, sun and rain.
Strip and brighten. Use the Restore a Deck Stripper with both additives:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
What do you suggest using if we like the natural look of the cedar but want a good protectant. The deck is 9 years old we used transparent cedar before but didn’t seem to protect enough. Thank you! The photo shows after power washing bare wood.
You need a proper penetrating semi-transparent stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Hi Scott,
We’re wondering what we should do with this finish that is failing unevenly and boards are slightly gray. Our deets:
Thanks in advance!
Use the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper with both additives for prep:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Brightener after.
What clear penetrating sealer can be recoated in two years without stripping?
Any penetrating sealer can be cleaned and recoated as needed. Try TWP or Defy.
FYI, clear sealers will gray and not provide UV protection. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/will-a-clear-sealer-prevent-graying-on-deck/
We are planning to re-stain our deck but unsure of preparation steps. Deck built new in 2021; stained same year with Cabot Semi-transparent Stain + Sealer. Will use the same shade to re-stain; focusing on the horizontal boards (deck, rail, steps). Deck is on east side of house; in metro Kansas City. And advice is appreciated. Thank you.
New Wood or Older Wood? 3 years old
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes Cabot Semi-transparent Stain + Sealer (oil based).
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Will use the same brand and shade to re-stain
Mold or Mildew Issues? no
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? not sure
We would strip and brigthen this for prep so when you reapply, it stains evenly.
Should I clean and brighten? Or strip and brighten. I will be using the same product and color to stain. Transparent Cedar by Olympic. I do have some black stains that need to be removed
Clean and brighten of using the same stain and color.
Here are photos to a go along with my previous comment.
Strip and brighten for the prep. You need to remove the old stain for best results. You might want to try a different stain brand. This one has issues with attracting algae and mold. Plus, it has darkened in color over time. It looks like it may have been Penofinf, which has a known issue with this.
I will be staining my home in the upcoming weeks. House has an existing stain, but has not been coated in the past 5 years. I’d like to match the existing color, but do not know the brand that was previously used. There’s also significant mildew growth in some areas. The previous stain hasn’t failed any areas, but has began to dull in places. I am torn between using the stain remover and then the brightener, or just using a cleaner and then a brightener. Do you think the stain remover is necessary?
Thank you
New Wood or Older Wood? 10 years old
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes TWP 116 Rustic
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Switching to a solid stain with a less orange color
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. TWP 116 Rustic
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Oil Semi-Transparent
Mold or Mildew Issues? NO
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Age, weather – it is time to re do the deck
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Strip and brighten this with the Restore A Deck Kits before using a solid stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
I have 1100 square feet of deck with some additional vertical so adding that in it is about 1350 square feet of coverage. I am confused on the Restore-a-Deck coverage per gallon. is that coverage assuming 2 coats? For my project with 2 coats of Solid Stain Desert Taupe, how many gallons should I order?
About 12-14 gallons for the two coats on 1350 sq feet.
I built a new fence in June 2020, followed up with a summer of drying then cleaned and stained it Sept 2020 with the above stain. I wanted to do a maintenance coat to keep it looking good for years to come but most info applying stain says to strip the stain, then brighten and stain. My fence is in good condition overall, looks good from the street still but does have some dirt or maybe mold issues, see photos. I assumed I could just give it a good clean (not necessarily strip the stain) then brighten and stain with the same stain to keep the color similar. Although I liked the super deck stain, I see here it’s not highly recommended (not sure if it matters for fence vs deck, i think it worked fine) If I hold off till next year, I would buy the recommend stains. Based off my photos, what’s best way to proceed? Being the middle of August and in WA state, we have only a handful of good weekends left. Quite frankly I’m a busy every weekend this month and most of Sep so I am debating just waiting till next June/July to do the entire process. That would allow me to get all the supplies ahead of time, and plenty of nice weekends to get it done. Any advice is helpful and thanks for the time
Clean and brighten will work while pressure washing. It will remove the midlew/mold. Look at Restore A Deck Kits. Waiting until Spring is okay if needed.
New Mahogany deck looks dirty/splotchy after staining with Armstrong Clark hardwood mahogany stain. There was rain about 40hrs after staining.
It looks like it was not fully cured before the rain came. I’m curious. Did you let the new wood dry for 3 months and prep as AC instructs? It might be part of the problem if you did not.
It does not look too bad, though. We would leave it as is and do a clean and recoat next year.
Thank you for the info. Some of the boards were new and didn’t dry for 3 months, but it also happened on some of the old wood. I was thinking same about leaving til next year for clean and recoat.
Thank you again
What do I do about raised grain or grooves in the deck boards?
Deck is 15 yrs old
Has Sherwin Williams Super deck – Solid
I tried to sand it off, however the “grooves” prevent the sander from taking it all off.
The deck is in full sun all afternoon until sunset.
No mold or mildew.
The stain stayed, however the boards cracked in places.
You could try the RAD PaintStrip to get the rest of the solid stain out of the grooves after you finish the sanding:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel-review/
Thank you!
Hi Scott,
I had a new cedar deck built in fall 2022 during very warm conditions in Pacific NW) and used Behr Premium semi- transparent, waterproof stain and sealer. Shortly after the first year it began peeling along with formation of mildew spores which both conditions have become extensive on all new deck boards and railing (primary damage) with some mildew forming on columns and posts. I’m hesitant to use the same brand, but would prefer to do so. I’m not certain why this stain failure has occurred as this product appears to be highly rated so may be improper application (??)
– new deck photo & current condition are attached
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Conditiion
Hi,
Behr has one of the worst ratings and consumer reviews on our site:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
On top of that, they lie about the opacity as it is not a true semi-transparent but closer to a semi-solid or solid stain in appearance when done. You can see this in your pics as it looks semi-solid. This leads to a huge pain to fix when the time comes, as it must be fully removed, and it can be very hard to strip off. You may need to strip and possibly sand this to fix this.
We would suggest the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Strip off as much as possible and then sand as needed to remove the rest. When you’re done, brighten everything.
If you don’t do this now and reapply the same Behr, it will be much harder to fix when it starts to peel again.
Thank you for your direction on this Scott. I wish I would’ve located your website before purchasing/applying the Behr semi-transparent stain. I definitely have my work cut out for me to remedy this.
New Wood or Older Wood?
– older wood (almost 30 yrs)
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
– Some in spots protected from the elements
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
– switching brands
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used?
– unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
– unknown but I’m guessing semi solid
Mold or Mildew Issues?
– no
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
– it just hasn’t been done in so long
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Strip and brighten for prep. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener kits with both additives for the stripper.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
I have a deck that is 3 years old and made of treated pine. I have not seen any mold. The deck gets full sun all day. The deck has never been treated but we are planning on staining this fall. Looking for prep and stain input. Thanks!
Since it is full sun, look at a semi-solid color:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-solid-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
Clean and brighten the wood for prep.
Hi Scott, this deck is cedar and was new in 2021. I followed advice from your site and asking questions to prep and stain it with water based Restore A Deck semi-transparent stain. The stain basically began coming off not too long after applying it despite following all your instructions to a T. I have no idea where I went wrong, but am now ready to tackle the deck again and fix it. So, where do I start? I plan to use an oil based stain with hopes that it will last this time, but want to be sure the deck is prepped properly for that. What oil based stain do you recommend? I’m also planning to re-coat the railings. Those were stained using Defy Extreme solid color water based stain and have held up fairly well except for a few spots of peeling. I’m planning to re-coat them using the same stain. What prep do those need for that? Thanks!
See this about the solid stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
The deck flooring would need a good strip and brighten. Use the RAD products. For stain, try Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 Series.
Thanks for the reply! For the railings & posts with the solid stain, I’m a bit confused. Do we really want to use a deck stain stripper on those? The stain is in pretty good shape (not peeling) on most of the railings & posts. If re-coating with the same product, I’m confused as to why we’d want to strip it off the areas that are in good shape?
Stripping removes what is loose or peeling; it will not remove all of the solid stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Hello Scott, we moved into our house about two years ago. Our deck shows having been stained before (I believe) but I have no idea what it was done with. What would you recommend? Some of it looks ok, some not. It does get sun all day. (I’ve found a deal on Cabot semi-transparent at a local habitat restore place. $12. Worth a try or pass?). Thank you.
You have an old semi-transparent stain. For prep, strip and brigthen. Looks at Restore A Deck Prep Kits. We would never use the Cabot. Look here for the best options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Ok, thank you. I appreciate your help.
I used the Restore a deck products. I’m very happy and hope it holds up well. Thanks for your help.
Last pic
Looks great!
Hello Scott.
We moved in here a year ago. This is an old treated wood deck that has always been left untouched. Could be 14 to 23 years old.
Most of the screws have come up a little so sanding is out of the question.
We would like to just have it last longer (grey is fine) while we save up to replace the boards which are still in not too bad condition.
The frame is in good shape. What might you recommend?
Regards and thank you for your insight.
Clean and brigthen for prep Look at the Restore A Deck Kits. Then stain with a semi-transparent stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Moved into the house and have no idea how long since the deck was stained etc.
What should we use on this deck to make it look nice again
Clean and brighten and then a semi-stransparent stain. Look at the Restore A Deck Prep Kits.
We have a 2 year old cedar deck that was just refinished. They did a horrible job. They prepped with bleach then power-washed. Then they applied 2 coats of Cabot Australian timber oil. The original finish was same product and turned out beautiful. We believe they didn’t allow enough time to dry after power wash and they applied 2 coats one on top of another only waiting a few hours between coats. Now we have a heavily coated, shiny, and tacky deck with weird discolorations everywhere. Including handrails. There are also spots that the wood is raising. Very upsetting. Regardless, at this point, we need to fix it. What would be the best process? We have 2 decks and a set of stairs that are in this condition. About 700 square feet total, plus the handrails. Thanks in advance for your time.
You will need to remove all and start over and this will not be an easy strip, as they over applied it and did not prep well. You may need to strip it a few times to get it all off.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Thank you. We were afraid of that. I am guessing the link you provided is what you recommend we use? I am also guessing weather plays a part when we strip. We are in the Portland area and temps are currently in the high 90’s. Front deck is in full sun from noon until sunset and back is shaded after about 10am. Should we wait until it’s not so hot? Strip in shade? Thank you again. Appreciate your expertise and guidance.
Later in the day or first thing in am would be easier.
I have a redwood deck in Colorado Springs with no stain for 10 years and completely gray. should I just power sand or brighten and sand or clean, brighten and sand before staining?
Clean and brighten should be enough. Look at Restore A Deck Prep kits.
I used yellawood semi transparent deck stain and don’t like the color. Been 2 weeks. Do I need to scuff to redcoat a different color of the same brand?
Strip and brighten if you want to switch.
Hi Scott,
Looking to re-stain my deck. I last stained about 2 years ago with a water based semi-transparent stain. I want to use the TWP stain you recommend. Do I need to sand or strip what’s there? Thanks so much!!!
Mike
While the can says semi-transparent, what is actually on your wood is an opaque solid stain in appearance. Behr lies about their opacity. You will need to heavy Paint Strip or power sand to remove this if you want to use TWP. See this for tips. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Defy crystal clear on sanded redwood after deft brighter?
If you use the Defy Clear you will have to prep and recoat every year. If you want it to last longer than that, then you need a tinted color.
Penofin wood brighter on sanded old redwood deck prior to penofin stain?
Sure but there are better stains than Penofin as Penofin has known issues with darkening or turning black.
Hello Scott, thank you for all your advice and Info about deck treatment.
I was wondering if you could guide me on how I should prep my deck. It was installed on August 30th 2023 but I don’t know which type of wood it is. The chaps who installed it left a note that said “Wait a year, sand the deck with 120 grit and apply a water-based stain from Techniseal or Thompson.” Considering that I live in Canada, with cold weather and that the deck is installed on a roof directly exposed to sunlight, is this the right path I should take or should I reconsider some steps such as skipping the sanding?
No, they are wrong except for the waiting part. You have pressure treated pine. Clean and brighten for prep while pressure washing. You then want a penetrating semi-transparent stain. You are limited in Canada due to VOC laws. If ordering from the states, these product are VOC compliant for you: TWP 200 Series, Armstrong Clark Stains, and Restore A Deck Stains.
Scott, your article was incredibly informative. I value your expertise and would like to have appropriately treat deck stained/apted based on your recommendations.
It is three years old and constructed of KDAT wood. It has never been treated or stained.
A bit of green algae is on the edges under the cable railings. It is a large deck comprising three areas: a large outdoor deck exposed to the elements, an enclosed dining deck, and a covered fireplace deck. I also have a covered front porch. The outdoor deck is weathered and sits over a newly sodded area. So, I want to be sure whatever I use will not damage my grass. I also have a large oak tree hanging over part of the deck, which causes a black residue on that portion. I have been pressure washing it and admittedly have used cleaning products that contain bleach once (before I learned it was not a good idea). What are your recommendations for prepping and staining? I ordered color samples of TWP stain, but I wonder if that or Armstrong stains would work better.
Clean and brighten with Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with TWP 1500 or Restore-A-Deck Semi-transparent. That tree is always going to be an issue with dirt. You will need to clean and recoat every couple of years.
Scott, I have a question, but first thanks for all the helpful content you post, your website has been a huge resource for me and my small painting business. I was about ready to give up on doing exterior staining jobs with all the film forming stains out there and no idea how to properly and restore the wood surfaces I was working with. Now I have used TWP (which is an amazing product) and am about to use Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparent on the job I am about to describe (thanks again for all your help!):
The project is a fairly large pavilion made out of treated pine just installed about 4 months ago, it has not received any coatings up to this point. The ceiling is tongue and groove 1×6 boards and seems like it has a mill glaze on it, it is quite smooth (as opposed to the 6×6 posts which seem ready to take a stain). Would pre-wetting followed by a cleaner such as sodium metasilicate followed by oxalic acid and a good rinse, be appropriate to clean and remove the mill glaze before staining? Or should it be sanded with an orbital Mirka sander and 80 grit? Or would you suggest another route?
You are welcome, and I am glad you have found better stain brands!
Ceilings are a pain. They are hard to prep and challenging to stain. There are lots of drips, so cover the flooring and yourself well. As for prep, the cleaner and brightener will work, but the wood will still not be very absorbent, so take care to look for runs and drips. Sanding is overkill, in my opinion.
Attached is my ceiling in Armstrong Clark Natural.
Scott,
Thanks so much for a super quick and helpful response. I will give that a go and be sure to PPE and mask up! I’ll try to let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the picture as well, it looks great!
God bless,
-Will
You are welcome. Question: Do you have a business website? We are looking for real quotes from contractors in the field about any of the products we review. We would post the quote on our site and link back to the business website. Would you be interested?
Scott, we are currently working on a business website so I would certainly be interested in giving you a quote once we have it up and running!
Okay, just let me know.
Hi Scott. I found your website 7 months ago while my new deck was being built. I wrote you at that time because the person who was building it was planning on staining it right away. I was nervous about waiting because of all the rain and ice and occasional snow that we get during the fall and winter here is Portland Oregon. You reassured me that the wood would be okay and I stopped worrying.
So now I am planning to stain my deck in a few weeks and am nervous again when I look how my wood weathered.I will include pictures. The wood is no longer silky smooth when you run your hand over it. I think that was what was expected. But now you would get splinters in places. I read to just hand sand those places. But I’m concerned about where the wood was sawed over knots in the wood. The edges of the knots (I don’t know how to describe it well) are lifting up. I lifted up one a tiny bit so you could see what I mean. I’m afraid those edges could be caught on something and pulled up and broken off causing an indent in the wood. How do I fix areas like that? What is your suggestion for prepping and staining my deck? Thank you so much for your advice in advance. And thank you for making this website.
Clean and brighten for prep. If needed, lightly hand sand after to remove any splinters, etc. We would “break” out that piece of wood that is damaged. Do not use wood filler, they will not work for decking and exterior stains.
FYI, it is a deck and it is supposed to be somewhat rustic, not smooth like a hardwood floor. It will always have some roughness to it and that is okay.
Hi Scott. Could you tell me exactly how to “break” out that piece of wood that is damaged? I’m picturing pulling it up and peeling it back until it breaks off. Couldn’t it end up being a long piece that just gets thicker causing a deeper rut as it goes along? Or do I hold it down so just a short piece breaks off when I pull it up? Did that damage happen because it was exposed to too much rain or ice before it was stained? If so, that’s what I was worried might happen and I kind of regret letting it weather through the fall and winter and I don’t want to regret what I did.
I have one more question. After I clean and brighten my wood and then hand sand it in places to remove splinters, can I just spray it again with the garden hose to wash away the dust caused from sanding it in places?
Thanks.
Pull it back and snap or “cut” it off about 3-4 inches. Lightly sand afterward to remove any sharp edges.
The weather didn’t cause this, and if you could have stained it last year, it would not have prevented it. It happened because the particular board was having issues. You will continue to have boards go bad randomly over the life of this deck, and it is the nature of exterior wood.
Thank you for your advice. It was very helpful. I have learned so much from this website about decks and how to take care of them.
You are welcome!
This is the test patch with the stripper you recommended. Looks great! Now I have to wait for cloudy weather again
Awesome!
Will this stripper take off solid stains as well? My deck is peeling paint and solid stain. My husband used a solid stain and a few years later a contractor used paint (he was supposed to re-stain it).
Deck Stain strippers will not remove a solid stain or paint. You need a paint stripper like the RAD PaintStrip:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Thank you!!
You are welcome!
I have have lightly sanded and replaced a few boards on a large deck located at 5600’ with 4 mo of snow. Used Armstrong semi trans last year which mostly disappeared. Recommendation?
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Kits ans stain again with AC or try TWP 1500 Series.
Thanks for the quick reply – are you a robot 😂. I’ve cut out some bad boards before finding your website and was going to replace with dry con s4s redwood. If I can’t find used material what do you suggest as I need to finish after applying restore a deck next week
I am a real person but my wife might agree about the robot question. 🙂
Have you seen this about new wood as it should not be stained right away:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
What is the best stainable wood filler for decks with your oil based stains A/C etc
Wood filler will not work for decking stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-filler-for-decks/
Semi trans or semi solid
Neither.
So if neither which AC texture should I use? I have done my wood shake siding last year with a mix of cedar and brown
Which texture should I use if not the above? Transparent?
When I said neither, I was referring to the fact that wood fillers will not work with exterior stains, including semi-trans or semi-solids.
I am not sure what you are asking/implying after that, as your statement “Semi trans or semi-solid” was vague.
Scott, your site is awesome. Thanks.
Based on reading articles here, I expect I need to sand everything since I have solid stain. Correct? Once I do, is it an option to do semi-transparent or semi-solid?
And I read about RAD guard, but at this point if I sand, I believe that should take off the mold along with the paint. Let me know if you recommend removing mold and then sanding as a separate step.
Yes, you have a solid stain. Here are some tips.
You will need to sand and or use the RAD Paint Strip to remove:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Consider a two-toned deck. Solid for railings and semi-transparent for floors:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
It will be very difficult to sand/strip the vertical railings. Tips for recoating the solid stain on the railings:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Thanks. One clarification: I think you’re saying to paint over the current railing stain. To prep for this, I will still need to use a stripper wherever the railing stain is peeling — I just shouldn’t try to strip it off entirely. Correct?
Much appreciated.
Not the same. Deck stain strippers will not remove a solid stain but will remove what is peeling and loose, prepping for recoating. To fully remove you need a Paint Stripper and sanding and that is much more work. You will have a hard time getting it off the railings fully the way it is built.
Ah, thanks for that important distinction.
Hi Scott,
The cleaner I used left my redwood deck white.Will using a brightener correct this? The wood is older and had a semi transparent stain on it.
Brighteners will not restore “white” from cleaninig. Staining the deck will help with this.
Hi Scott,
Appreciate all the info on the site and all your help with the comments here. Was thinking a wood cleaner. Then apply same stain. Is brightener recommended for this situation too after the cleaner and before staining?
New Wood or Older Wood?
3 years old. New deck in 2021
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Yes. Cabot Australian Timber Oil Natural Transparent.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Need advice. Was planning on a using the same brand and product above.
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
Cabot Australian Timber Oil Natural Transparent. Applied May 2022
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Oil. Transparent.
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Had spots of green algae. Used Dawn and water. Didn’t work. Hit it with some pool cleaner.
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Age? Applied in May 2022
Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer with prep for this year. Happy holiday weekend!
We would clean and then brighten.
Thanks for the quick reply. Much appreciated!!
Hi Scott,
We bought this house a year ago, and have been plugging away at all of the deferred maintenance. The deck is in need of attention. I recently power washed to remove loose pieces of the coating. It seems to also need a sanding (even more so after washing). Hoping it’s not too far gone that I’d have to use a resurfacer rather than stain, as I don’t want to be locked into the limited colors available. Could you please advise?
1. Older wood.
2. Solid stain? Probably 50% of it is worn off.
3. I’d like to apply a solid stain in a different color.
4. Unknown brand.
5. Unknown current stain type.
6. No mold or mildew.
7. Deferred maintenance.
8. Pics attached.
Any guidance you could offer would be appreciated. Thank you so much!
Shauna
See this article for tips on reapplying a solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
You are very generous to share your expertise. I’m so glad I found your site!
Thanks again,
Shauna
Hi Scott, I want to put another coat of stain on my Colorado redwood deck, but I’m going to power wash it first. Any idea how many days I should wait for it to completed dry before staining. Temp are 60-70’s the next 4-5 days, then rain.
Depends on the stain brand but typically 48 hours after prep.
Hi Scott, thank you for your help. Old deck, probably 8 years old, just purchased the home so do not know much other than it was stained. Don’t think mold or mildew is an issue. I think a solid stain was used previously. My question is, do I need to use a stripper, cleaner or brightener on this deck or should it just be power washed, sanded and then a solid coat of stain reapplied? Any help would be great, thanks again for your site. So informative and helpful. Laura
You have a mixture of semi-transparent and solid stain . Easiest is to prep and redo with a solid stain. See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
The see here for the best solid stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Ok great, thank you Scott! So essentially I’ll need to use the RAD painstrip gel, sand and apply RAD solid stain…. correct?
You can use the regular RAD Deck stripper; you do not need the RAD Paint strip since you are reapplying a solid stain. The goal is to remove the peeling and loose stain, and then you can cover the intact stain.
Hello again, sorry one more question. I bought the DEFY stripper last Fall with intentions of re-doing my deck but it never happened. As you’ve identified the semi-transparent and solid stain on my deck, would the DEFY that I’ve already purchased be effective? Thank u!
You can use the Defy Stain Stripper for prep here for recoating with the RAD Solid Stain.
1. New Wood or Older Wood?
* Both. The new wood is the deck board. Everything else is older wood.
2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
* Yes.
3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
* Switching brands and color—switching to Armstrong Clark semi transparent cedar
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
* Behr waterproof
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
* Solid stain
6. Mold or Mildew Issues?
* Maybe
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
* Chipping
8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
*
You will need to heavy strip and sand to get this solid stain off:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
It would be much easier to consider a two toned deck. that way you just need to remove the solid stain from the rest of the flooring. See this for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/advantages-to-having-a-two-toned-deck/
Does the stain need to be completely sanded off? I put the gel and then sanded. Seems like there a lot more paint left.
I was planning to do semi transparent Armstrong cedar color on the verticals.
New Wood or Older Wood?
Older wood, approximately 12 years old. Not 100% sure if cedar?
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Yes, not certain what it is.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
No
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
Unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Unknown?
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Not that I’m aware?
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
West facing deck with no trees, substantial sun contact.
Strip and brighten for prep. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit. As for the stain, look at a penetrating stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Hi, I live in Seattle and have a 12×12 Cedar-selected tight knot deck that is 1 year and 9 months old. My deck gets morning shade and full sun remaining day. Deck is exposed to a lot rain, summer sprinklers, and nearby vegetation that drops debris on deck during the year. I tried Ready Seal twice (when deck was new and recent), and deck is only able to absorb one coat and coat only lasted a year. Ready Seal product says to use beach for prep, so that is what I used. I have had problems with fibers and fuzzies with prep. In the future (when deck is 3 years old or next summer of 2025) I want to switch to a different stain. Either TWP 100 series or Armstrong Clark stain. I like the natural look, so want to stay with light color stain, like honey. For my conditions, which would you use….TWP 100 series or Armstong Clark ? I would like to switch my prep to a Restore a deck stripper (w additive) and restore a deck brightener for prep, unless you suggest otherwise. I am somewhat new at this and trying to learn from my failures.
Both the TWP 100 Series and the Armstrong are excellent and would last about the same for your climate. If using TWP, look at the Honeytone color. If AC, look at Amber. Take into consideration that lighter colors will fade fsster than darker colors.
Your RAD prep is correct for the removal of the Ready Seal. No need for the additives. RS is easy to strip.
Your right about the lighter colors fading. If I would go one shade color darker, what color would that be for both TWP and AC? I forgot to mention that I definitely want to apply the stain with a hand brush. I assume one or two coats with either TWP or AC? Also, plan to apply RAD stripper with a Bristol hand broom, wash off with jet nozzle hose (intimidated by pressure washers …..68 year old female) and then spray on brightener with pump spray and wash off with jet nozzle hose.
TWP Pecan 120 and Armstrong Clark in Natural Oak. Two coats applied wet on wet for both brands.
I have replaced some bad boards on my deck- probably 30 years old. It is a combination of new and old wood. Previously used Olympic Elite Solid Stain and will use again, as it has done well. A little gun shy after a horrible experience with Restore. No mildew or mold issues. Trying to figure out prep for this deck with both new and old wood and finish.
Here are some tips.
New wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Recoating with a soldi stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
I have some RAD brightener left from complete strip/sand project /Defy 2 years ago and getting ready to do touch up overcoat with Defy. Any cleaners I can pick up locally that are compatible with the RAD brightener?
Not that I know of.
Hello! Thanks for being such a a helpful resource!
First time home owner dealing with 3 deck spaces… Back deck, front porch and side entrance. All of them are wood, built about 3-4 years ago, and to my understanding they’ve never been treated.
New Wood or Older Wood? Newish? 3-4 years
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? No current coating
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? N/A
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? None yet
Mold or Mildew Issues? No
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
I’m unsure if I need to sand this all to get a nice surface, and how I should deal with staining. Do all of the surfaces need to be stained, including underneath?
Could you post some pics in the comments for prep tips?
Let me know if these work
George, this is an easy one. Just Clean and Brighten for prep and then use a semi-transparent stain after. Look at Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-stain-and-sealer/
You don’t think it needs to be sanded?
No, I don’t think it needs to be sanded.
Thanks! Does the link you sent include Clean and Brighten products/methods? Apologies if my questions are basic
See here for the prep to use:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
I’m now considering to use a semi-solid stain to have something more uniform, but I understand it’s best to use a penetrating stain (don’t want to have to strip/sand when it’s time to redo it in 2 years)…The deck is getting a lot of sun in the afternoon (I’m in Michigan)
Questions are:
1) How to prep it properly?
2) What would be a good semi-solid stain to use?
Thank you
For prep, use the RAD Stripper and Brightener Kits:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
As for semi-solids, try penetrating semi-solids like the TWP or Armstrong Clark.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-solid-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
FYI, MI went Low VOC last year.
So cleaner+brightener is not enough?….I need the stripper+brightener?
Is Armstrong-Clark low VOC (I assume it is since you recommend it) ?
You have to remove when switching. Stripping is just as easy as cleaning, just remove the old coating fully. TWP and AC semi-solids come in Low VOC.
If I keep the same stain (TWP semi transparent dark oak)…..I would just need to clean and maybe brighten? No need to use a stripper in that case?
Knowing the current look of the deck (color not very uniform(, will the semi-transparent cover properly, or I definitely need to go with a semi-solid or solid stain?
Yes, if keeping the same stain and color. You would get a more uniform appearance with the semi-solid.
Ending 1st year of new cedar deck. Initially stained with A/C semi-transparent. This is a South facing deck but has a lot of black mold on it. The mold started after ~ 4 months. I’m looking to do the 1 year maintenance coat. I plan on doing the clean/brighten cycle then re-stain.
Is this correct?
If I were to switch to a different brand sem-transparent would I have to strip the deck?
Is there any way to prevent the mold in the first place?
Clean and brighten if staying with same AC stain and color. Strip and brighten if switching. Some stain brands do better with mildew/mold. Can you upload some pics in the comments?
I am having difficulty attaching pics. I select the photos to attach and in the forum page upper right corner looks like it is doing something but there is no photo showing up in the reply
Testing photo upload.
That would happen if your pics are too large or your browser is blocking the uploads. Try making pics smaller in size and or a different browser.
The pics were to large…
This was a bit disappointing with the AC stain as it was rated pretty high as far in the mildew/mold department in the reviews.
I had 2 other ?? I forgot to ask:
I am not sure if that is mold or dirt from your trees, etc. sticking to the stain. If it is mold, you may have applied it during the pollen season. Pollen that falls on the deck while curing will attract mold and mildew.
Stripping AC is not that hard. Use this and make sure to brighen after:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
It’s hard to say about the opened stain. Typically shelf life is 1 year if opened.
I’m not sure when pollen season is but the stain was applied in the summer. It looked great when I was done and a few months after.
Is there a way to tell if it is dirt from trees or mold?
I wasn’t meaning if it is hard work using the stripper. I meant to say is the residue that I will be stripping toxic to everyting under the deck and be a mess to clean up.
What should I look for to determine if the stain is still good?
If I strip the deck what the water based stain be a better choice for me?
Does the dirt “wash” off with a little bit of scrubbing with water with dish soap? That would determine if just dirt sitting on top of the stain.
Look to see if the open stain mixes evenly without skinning or clumping.
If you strip, try the Restore A Deck Semi-transparent. Less chance of mildew or dirt sticking to the surface.
Thanks. Will the stripping be a mess to cleanup under the deck and is it safe for the lawn
Just rinse well when done. It does not harm the lawn.
I tried Dawn soap and water. It did indeed remove the ‘black stuff’ but it appears to have removed the stain. I’m not sure what to think about this. Does this mean the ‘black stuff’ is not mold/mildew? Why did it remove the stain?
Definitely not mildew or mold. You might be able to get away with a cleaner and brightener instead of the stripper as it seems it is coming off easily.
As for why it is coming off easily, I am not sure.
Scott, Many thanks for all your help. This is definitely the definitive source for deck stain and maintenance.
You are welcome. Post some pics when done.
Scott,
I power washed the deck and re-stained with the remaining AC stain. The results were great, the deck looked new again. After about 1 month the deck started turning black again just like it did before and has gotten worse over the summer. I would like to redo the deck using the RAD dark walnut stain. What do I need to do for the best results? Thanks.
Strip and brighten with the Restore-A-Deck Kits.
I’m not sure I understand the RAD staining directions.
After using the stripper/brightner would I apply one or two coats of stain?
When it comes time to freshen the stain would I just wash and restain?
Two light coats applied wet on wet. The directions are on the RAD website. Clean and reapply when needed.
Scott,
I used the RAD stripper and brightner. The pic shows the result. Help!
adding the photo that was excluded from my following post….
Can you elaborate as to what you think the issue is?
some of the boards are all black others are partially on the ends
there is also this white stuff this morning that I thought was dew… I washed each half for 30 minutes with a garden hose when done
a close up of the blackness
You over-stripped, and that caused the furring.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
You also did not brighten fully, and that is the darkening.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-is-a-deck-brightener-and-why-use-one/
Redo with the brightener and leave on for at least 20-30 minutes. If you want to remove the furring, then see the first article.
Thanks Scott. Since my above note I had power rinsed the deck with the power washer using just water. It fixed a lot of the problems. As the deck finally dried the ‘black stuff’ is mostly going away. There is only a slight gray remaing. I don’t have any of the RAD cleaning stuff remaining. Can I just sand the remaining light grayish boards? I am going to rent a buffing machine and do the entire deck.
I checked the RAD instructions again and they say to leave the brightner on for 10 mins. Maybe they could reference your excellent article for the future.
After this I am going to use the RAD stain in 2 days, it is forecast to rain tomorrow. I plan to mist the deck with water then apply 2 light coats. Is this correct?
You cannot spot sand as that will lead to the stain not taking evenly where you sanded. Best to sand/buff all the flooring.
You can apply the RAD stain to a damp or dry deck. Not soaking wet.
I ended up power sanding with 60 grit. The RAD directions say 1 coat after this. So I’m confused again..1 or 2 coats after power sanding? This is 18 month old cedar that was previously stained.
1 coat if you power sanded is correct.
Hey Scott,
Finished up Monday afternnon. The deck came out ok, certainly much better than it was. I used 1 coat of RAD dark waknut, expected the deck the whole to be darker like the perpendicular board(looks true dark walnut in person). The pic makes the deck appear darker than it is. I think the darker board is that color because I had to go over it a few times when I was doing the butt ends of the other boards. Anyways, Thanks again for your expertise and help. Can’t wait to do the second coat for the true color on the entire deck.
Looking good. FYI, seconds coats must be applied wet on wet with the the Restore A Deck Dark Walnut. Not wet on dry.
I was aware that I cannot do a second coat now. I’m thinking this time next year. I had ordered enough to do 2 coats so I have plenty left over… When I do the re-coat do I have to do the RAD clean/brighten cycle or can I just wash it?
Clean and brighten is always best but you can use the prep at half strength. 2-3 oz of powder per gallon.
Hi Josh, I am about to restore this deck for a client and need some advice… my initial thought was to sand off the existing stain that her dogs have scratched and to sand down some of the scratch marks if they aren’t too deep. I’m curious if this is the best method, and also curious how long the deck can sit after sanding before I apply new stain? It is about to be cold and rainy here and I’m worried about cure time, but I only have this week to do the sanding part. How long can it sit without stain until I can come back to it? Thanks!
Yes, you should sand this all off. See this for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Make sure to use a penetrating stain for next time, not a filming stain as currently on the wood. Stain within two weeks of prep.
Hiya. I previously used Behr Semi-Transparent product on my deck (Behr did not hold up well). Will the RAD stripper work to remove this?
It should but you might need the Booster and Gel additives. Can you post pics in the comments of the current condition?
Can I stain a deck and fence that has been painted after stripping with a TW
P product? If so what process should I use. It is peeling badly but no mildew and we are in Wyoming so product needs to with stand very cold weather.
If you are able to 100% remove it then yes, you can use TWP after.
Hello- We purchased a house where the previous owner made some strange choices including covering a large portion of the deck with cement pavers. We did a quick (not very well done staining) of the portion not covered by pavers 2 years ago when we first bought the house and just recently discovered the section of the deck that has been covered with pavers. We are replacing some areas with new wood but for budget reasons most of it needs to stay the same wood for now.
Thank you in advance for your advice.
You will need a solid stain to get it to all match. See here for prep tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
See here for the best solid stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hi Scott, First of all, thank you for providing this excellent public service!
I last restored my deck in late 2021. As you will see in the photos, it needs some work.
My answers to your questions:
1. New Wood or Older Wood?
Old redwood
2. Current Coating?
Yes
3. Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying same Brand and Color?
Same brand and color: TWP “Driftwood”
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used?
TWP “Driftwood”
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Don’t remember. I think Semi-Solid.
6. Mold or Mildew Issues?
Not really.
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
Wear and tear in traffic areas. See photos.
Question: Is there a way I can restore the traffic areas only?
8. Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
See below.
You cannot spot prep/stain as it will not blend. DSince it wore unevenly due to the traffic areas, you should strip (not clean) and then brighten. Stripping is no harder than cleaning, just remove the coating fully so when you reapply, you get an even application and appearance.
I’ll take this opportunity to ask about some benches next to the deck. (See photos.) They were built out of ipe (tropical hardwood) around 2008 and never coated, treated, or restored in any way. My feeling is that a good pressure wash will make them look great again. But then do I need to coat/treat in some way?
Use a deck cleaner while pressure washing. When done, stain with a hardwood stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/hardwood-deck-stains/
Thanks so much Scott. Do I need to use a brightener after cleaning?
Yes.
I stained my deck last year with a waterbased stain. I want to wash the deck. Is dawn dish washing soap and water ok to use without harming the stain?
Hard to say for certain as it varies based on the stain brand and type. Try a test spot to make sure no reaction.
I have a bench that has faded and cracked pretty badly. I believe this is pinewood. I wonder what would be the right way to brighten, protect the wood and get it to a bit more brown shade. Something similar to the attached brown square.
Clean and Brighten with Restore-A-Deck Kits will restore the color. Stain with Restore-A-Deck stain in Light Walnut or Armstrong Clark Stain in Rustic Brown color.
I live in Southern California with a south west facing deck that gets a lot of full sun and coastal fog all year long. The deck is 18×26 ft redwood, built in 2021 and stained with semi transparent Cabot after it weathered for four months. It was properly prepped and sanded before using the semi transparent stain. This deck is attached to ADU rental making it difficult and expensive to do maintenance. Stain wore off in most high traffic areas after 18 mos. and photos show deck after recent power wash with no extra cleaning/brightening products.
My husband and I are having debate with my painter/contractor on whether to sand down to bare wood or no, and what to use to maintain UV protection that won’t need refinishing every 2-3 years. Hoping for something that lasts 5 years. Bids to redo our deck ranged from $4000-10,000! And wish we had used composite! Hubby wants to paint deck for lower maintenance but wondering if a semi solid or solid stain will be better than deck paint and last as long?
Pergola is already stained with Cabot semi-solid in Cordova Leather so looking for a lighter floor stain color that offers good long lasting coverage and UV protection. Also need to decide on whether another round with a cleaner/brightener is enough prep or if full sanding (painter recommended) is necessary. A few spots have stains from planters that may need a light sand, but no obvious mold or mildew.
Planter boxes were purchased online and appear to have solid stain on them. Ideally, would like to clean and prep these to better match deck.
Would appreciate advice on next steps and best products for longevity. Great site! Thank you.
Nothing lasts 5 years on a deck. 2-3 years is max and since you have to redo every 2-3 years, you want a coating that can be cleaned and recoated without the need for stripping or sanding.
At this point, you should strip and brighten for prep to remove all the old Cabot stain. Do not sand as this closes the wood grain pores, hindering the stain’s ability to penetrate.
Look at this for prep:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Look at this link for the best penetrating stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Hey Scott, I have stripped and sanded my PT deck and ready to stain with TWP semi solid once I finish with brightener. No rain for next week. My concern is the temps this week are in the low 60’s and fall into the mid to low 30’s in the evening. Then nothing but rain in the forecast the rest of March. I do not believe the evening temps are good for the cure time. Should I wait on using the brightener until I have a clear time when I can stain? Thanks
You are okay but do not apply if it drops below freezing the first night.
Thanks! Did the brightener today and will wait 48 hrs. Check the weather/temps and get it done.
Hi, I’ve been asked to redo a large fairly new deck in the beach area of SoCal. The deck was brand new about 2 years ago and the builder used Behr semi-transparent. It has failed significantly (badly peeling on most horizontal areas and mostly mildew on vertical). I’m planning to strip and neutralize but need your advice on what semi-transparent to use to hold up the best in our high UV but also high moisture/humidity environment.
Link to Google photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/KrdRh5gBQNEFrkpE8
For prep, use the Restore-A-Deck Stripper and Brightener kits with both Booster and Thickening Gel additives. As for the stain, try TWP 1500 Series or Restore A Deck Stains.
Hi Scott, I’m really enjoying your site and the great work that you do. I’m working to restore a Redwood deck in Los Angeles, the stain was applied in May 2021, I’m not sure what kind it was but I’ve included a close up picture from May 2022, it had worsened from this time to now. We have already sanded all the flat surfaces, but not the vertical 4×4 posts or vertical aspects or underneath aspects of the railings. Was thinking to use RAD products, please let me know what you’d recommend for prep and stain. In particular, do you think I need to use stain stripping, or can I just use cleaner and power wash. Thanks!
Hi Josh,
You will need to strip and brighten this deck for prep. Use the RAD Stripper with both additives while pressure washing and then Brightener when done.
As for the stain, you can use the RAD Semi-transparent stain or look at Armstrong Clark Stains.
Thank you for the quick response! Is RAD Stain Stripper sufficient or do I need the Paint version? Also, How should I think about the decision to go with RAD (water-based) vs Armstrong (oil-based)? Thank you!
Send some pics of the verticals that have not been stripped.
Here’s a pic of the unstripped vertical. Let me know what you think! Also, let me know how to think about whether I should do an oil-based Armstrong or the water-based rad product. Thank you!
Josh, the pic did not post.
Try this
No pics. Either you are using pics that are too large or of an incorrect file type. Pics need to be less than 4 mb and a jpg, png, gif, etc.
I cropped it to reduce file size, thanks!
Got it. The picture looks deceiving. The left side looks like a semi-transparent that should come off with the RAD Stain Stripper and both addtives but the right of the post looks like an opaque stain which means you would need the Paint Strip. It could just be the reflection.
We would go with the RAD Stain Stripper and addtives. Apply, let dwell for 30-60 minutes (keep from drying out if needed by misting) and pressure wash off.
Use the RAD Semi-transparent stain in Light Walnut or Cedar when done. it should blend any old stain if you do not get 100% off. Pics here:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-and-deck-stain-photo-album
Make sure to go over the flooring as well with the prep products and pressure washing.
Hello – I have new (6 months) Cedar posts and Cedar Tone wood used for a privacy (slats). I will be staining using a semi-transparent (per your guidance) to protect mostly from UV. don’t want color change. My question – I will use a cleaner but is a brightener necessary? I decided to use Defy Ultra for the stain.
Best to use both the Cleaner and the Brightener. We would suggest the Defy Extreme over the Ultra for new wood. Better penetration:
https://www.deckstain.com/defy-extreme-stain.html