Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?  4.8/5 (74)

This post was updated on May 13, 2024

Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck staining and prep. My reviews and help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing, all designed to present you with the top product choices. See here for more info about me.

What is the Best Deck Deck Prep 2024

See my Deck Stain Facts section, which includes over 150 simple Q&A articles that answer all your questions about deck staining, cleaning, and prep.

This has become one of my most popular articles on how to prep your wood deck before applying a wood deck stain. In it, I will help consumers find the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article, with your input and pictures, will help determine the proper way for you to prep.

Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?

Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?

Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?

This is the 2nd most popular question deck owners have on this website, with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain? Prepping your Deck is the most critical aspect of the restoration process and will determine your final appearance and the stain’s longevity. Not prepping correctly can lead to premature stain failure and poor appearance results. How to best prep your Deck could vary on many scenarios:

  • Is the wood new or old?
  • Does it have a previous coating on the wood?
  • Are you re-coating with the same brand and colors as last time?
  • When was the last time it was stained?
  • What type of stain was it coated with before?

A better way to approach the deck prepping question is to ask, “What is the best deck prep for my deck due to its current condition and age?”

The three main ways to prep a deck are:

  • Deck Cleaning followed by Wood Brightening
  • Deck Stripping followed by Wood Brightening
  • Power Sanding
  • Or a combination of the above

Wood and Deck Cleaning Prep

Wood and deck cleaners are designed to clean and prep the wood before applying wood stain. Deck cleaners are to remove grime and dirt, oxidation (graying), mold, algae, and, in some cases, deteriorated stains that have failed. However, deck cleaners typically do not remove old deck stains or paints. Deck cleaners will “loosen” the dirt and grime so you can scrub or lightly pressure wash the wood without damage. Most deck cleaners will slightly darken or raise the pH of the wood, so following with a deck brightener is needed.

My Pro Tip: Do not use bleach-based deck cleaners. They are bad for the doo fibers and your environment. Examples include Olympic Deck Cleaner, 30 Seconds Deck Cleaner, and Behr Deck Cleaners. See Deck Cleaner Reviews.

Wood and Deck Stripping Prep

Deck stain strippers are designed to remove deck coatings like clear sealers, transparent stains, semi-transparent stains, and some semi-solid stains. They are not designed to remove solid color opaque stains or paints. In addition, coatings that have a shine like a varnish cannot be stripped with a deck stain stripper. Deck strippers work on your old stain by softening the old coating to be heavily scrubbed or pressure washed off. For a stripper to be effective, it needs to penetrate the coating and soften the bond between the coating and the wood. If it cannot penetrate the coating, it will not work. Deck stain stripper will significantly darken the wood, so a wood brightener is necessary to lighten the wood and restore the pH balance. See Deck Stripper Reviews.

My Pro Tip: If you have a Solid Stain, Deck Paint, or Varnish on your deck, you could try a Paint Stripper like the RAD PaintStrip to remove the coating.

How To Strip A Deck Stain Video

Sanding a Wood Deck For Prep

I am not a fan of sanding a deck, but in some cases, it is needed as stripping may not fully remove the old coatings. If you need to sand off a solid stain or paint, it is best to start with 40—or 60-grit sandpaper, which is the best option for stripping old finishes. Never sand finer than 80 grit paper. Sanding finer than 80 grit may close the pores and prevent stains from penetrating.

My Pro Tip: You can lightly spot hand sand to remove splinters or raised wood fibers. If you have furring of the wood grain, see this article. Deck Furring after Prep.

What is the best way to prep my Deck?

I will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers, I can help you determine the best way to prep your Deck before applying a deck stain.

  1. New Wood or Older Wood?
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
  3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
  4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
  5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues?
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
  8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.

Post a comment below and include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional useful information!

Best Deck Prepping Product Articles

Ask in the Comment Section Below. Include Answers to the above Questions.

Please Rate This. You may also post comments or ask questions below.

author avatar
Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993 Owner
As an article and comment contributor to the site, Scott has been around the pressure washing industry since attending college. In 1993 he started his first company called Oakland Pressure Wash specializing in exterior pressure washing and deck staining. That company evolved into OPW L.L.C. shortly thereafter concentrating more on exterior wood and deck restoration. Scott and his Deck Cleaning Michigan company have restored over 10,000 decks in the Metro Detroit area since the early years. He has become an authority in the deck restoration industry and has contributed to numerous wood restoration forums and informative sites. All the products he suggests through this site are sold through online sites and in retail stores, allowing the consumer to choose their own means of purchase. Scott’s eCommerce sites do sell many top brands he endorses and if you appreciate any of the help he has offered then feel free to purchase from one of them.

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Mary M
Mary M
4 hours ago

I have some RAD brightener left from complete strip/sand project /Defy 2 years ago and getting ready to do touch up overcoat with Defy. Any cleaners I can pick up locally that are compatible with the RAD brightener?

George
George
3 days ago

Hello! Thanks for being such a a helpful resource!

First time home owner dealing with 3 deck spaces… Back deck, front porch and side entrance. All of them are wood, built about 3-4 years ago, and to my understanding they’ve never been treated.

New Wood or Older Wood? Newish? 3-4 years
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? No current coating
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? N/A
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? None yet
Mold or Mildew Issues? No
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?

I’m unsure if I need to sand this all to get a nice surface, and how I should deal with staining. Do all of the surfaces need to be stained, including underneath?

George
George
3 days ago

Let me know if these work

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George
George
2 days ago

You don’t think it needs to be sanded?

George
George
2 days ago

Thanks! Does the link you sent include Clean and Brighten products/methods? Apologies if my questions are basic

Xavier
Xavier
8 days ago
  1. New Wood or Older Wood? Older wood (pressure treated, 8 years old)
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes, but really washed out now
  3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Probably switching brand – Need new coat regardless
  4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? TWP100 I believe (dark brown – TWP103)
  5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? TWP100, Semi transparent
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues? not really
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Each time it was stained, I felt it only lasted 1 year then color was really fadding out
  8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.

I’m now considering to use a semi-solid stain to have something more uniform, but I understand it’s best to use a penetrating stain (don’t want to have to strip/sand when it’s time to redo it in 2 years)…The deck is getting a lot of sun in the afternoon (I’m in Michigan)
Questions are:
1) How to prep it properly?
2) What would be a good semi-solid stain to use?

Thank you

Deck
Xavier
Xavier
8 days ago

So cleaner+brightener is not enough?….I need the stripper+brightener?
Is Armstrong-Clark low VOC (I assume it is since you recommend it) ?

Marty
Marty
9 days ago

Ending 1st year of new cedar deck. Initially stained with A/C semi-transparent. This is a South facing deck but has a lot of black mold on it. The mold started after ~ 4 months. I’m looking to do the 1 year maintenance coat. I plan on doing the clean/brighten cycle then re-stain.

Is this correct?
If I were to switch to a different brand sem-transparent would I have to strip the deck?
Is there any way to prevent the mold in the first place?

Marty
Marty
8 days ago

I am having difficulty attaching pics. I select the photos to attach and in the forum page upper right corner looks like it is doing something but there is no photo showing up in the reply

Scott Paul
Scott Paul
8 days ago
Reply to  Marty

Testing photo upload.

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Marty
Marty
8 days ago

The pics were to large…

This was a bit disappointing with the AC stain as it was rated pretty high as far in the mildew/mold department in the reviews.

I had 2 other ?? I forgot to ask:

  1. I have 1 year old AC stain left over in the 5 gal bucket. It has been sealed all winter. Is it still good?
  2. How much of a mess will I have if I decide to strip with the RAD product? The deck is above a concrete patio
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Marty
Marty
8 days ago

I’m not sure when pollen season is but the stain was applied in the summer. It looked great when I was done and a few months after.

Is there a way to tell if it is dirt from trees or mold?

I wasn’t meaning if it is hard work using the stripper. I meant to say is the residue that I will be stripping toxic to everyting under the deck and be a mess to clean up.

What should I look for to determine if the stain is still good?

If I strip the deck what the water based stain be a better choice for me?

Marty
Marty
8 days ago

Thanks. Will the stripping be a mess to cleanup under the deck and is it safe for the lawn

Marty
Marty
8 days ago

I tried Dawn soap and water. It did indeed remove the ‘black stuff’ but it appears to have removed the stain. I’m not sure what to think about this. Does this mean the ‘black stuff’ is not mold/mildew? Why did it remove the stain?

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Marty
Marty
8 days ago

Scott, Many thanks for all your help. This is definitely the definitive source for deck stain and maintenance.

Molly
Molly
14 days ago

Hi Josh, I am about to restore this deck for a client and need some advice… my initial thought was to sand off the existing stain that her dogs have scratched and to sand down some of the scratch marks if they aren’t too deep. I’m curious if this is the best method, and also curious how long the deck can sit after sanding before I apply new stain? It is about to be cold and rainy here and I’m worried about cure time, but I only have this week to do the sanding part. How long can it sit without stain until I can come back to it? Thanks!

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Josienna
Josienna
19 days ago

Hiya. I previously used Behr Semi-Transparent product on my deck (Behr did not hold up well). Will the RAD stripper work to remove this?

Connie
Connie
25 days ago

Can I stain a deck and fence that has been painted after stripping with a TW
P product? If so what process should I use. It is peeling badly but no mildew and we are in Wyoming so product needs to with stand very cold weather.

Joanna Larsen
Joanna Larsen
26 days ago

Hello- We purchased a house where the previous owner made some strange choices including covering a large portion of the deck with cement pavers. We did a quick (not very well done staining) of the portion not covered by pavers 2 years ago when we first bought the house and just recently discovered the section of the deck that has been covered with pavers. We are replacing some areas with new wood but for budget reasons most of it needs to stay the same wood for now.

  1. New Wood or Older Wood? Mostly old pressure treated wood, see above.
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Half of the deck yes, half no.
  3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? New stain Brand and color
  4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Unknown
  5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? The partial stain is Solid, not sure if it is Water or Oil Based
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues? Not to the eye but I worry about what is underneath.
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? It hasn’t failed necessarily but we want the deck to all match.
  8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.

Thank you in advance for your advice.

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Thomas
Thomas
1 month ago

Hi Scott, First of all, thank you for providing this excellent public service!

I last restored my deck in late 2021. As you will see in the photos, it needs some work.

My answers to your questions:

1. New Wood or Older Wood? 
Old redwood

2. Current Coating? 
Yes

3. Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying same Brand and Color?
Same brand and color: TWP “Driftwood”

4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? 
TWP “Driftwood”

5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Don’t remember. I think Semi-Solid.

6. Mold or Mildew Issues?
Not really.

7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
Wear and tear in traffic areas. See photos.
Question: Is there a way I can restore the traffic areas only?

8. Picture(s) of the Current Condition. 
See below.

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Thomas
Thomas
1 month ago

I’ll take this opportunity to ask about some benches next to the deck. (See photos.) They were built out of ipe (tropical hardwood) around 2008 and never coated, treated, or restored in any way. My feeling is that a good pressure wash will make them look great again. But then do I need to coat/treat in some way?

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Thomas
Thomas
1 month ago

Thanks so much Scott. Do I need to use a brightener after cleaning?

Albert
Albert
1 month ago

I stained my deck last year with a waterbased stain. I want to wash the deck. Is dawn dish washing soap and water ok to use without harming the stain?

Yavor Angelov
Yavor Angelov
1 month ago

I have a bench that has faded and cracked pretty badly. I believe this is pinewood. I wonder what would be the right way to brighten, protect the wood and get it to a bit more brown shade. Something similar to the attached brown square.

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Charmian
Charmian
1 month ago

I live in Southern California with a south west facing deck that gets a lot of full sun and coastal fog all year long. The deck is 18×26 ft redwood, built in 2021 and stained with semi transparent Cabot after it weathered for four months. It was properly prepped and sanded before using the semi transparent stain. This deck is attached to ADU rental making it difficult and expensive to do maintenance. Stain wore off in most high traffic areas after 18 mos. and photos show deck after recent power wash with no extra cleaning/brightening products.

My husband and I are having debate with my painter/contractor on whether to sand down to bare wood or no, and what to use to maintain UV protection that won’t need refinishing every 2-3 years. Hoping for something that lasts 5 years. Bids to redo our deck ranged from $4000-10,000! And wish we had used composite! Hubby wants to paint deck for lower maintenance but wondering if a semi solid or solid stain will be better than deck paint and last as long?

Pergola is already stained with Cabot semi-solid in Cordova Leather so looking for a lighter floor stain color that offers good long lasting coverage and UV protection. Also need to decide on whether another round with a cleaner/brightener is enough prep or if full sanding (painter recommended) is necessary. A few spots have stains from planters that may need a light sand, but no obvious mold or mildew.

Planter boxes were purchased online and appear to have solid stain on them. Ideally, would like to clean and prep these to better match deck.

Would appreciate advice on next steps and best products for longevity. Great site! Thank you.

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Matt
Matt
1 month ago

Hey Scott, I have stripped and sanded my PT deck and ready to stain with TWP semi solid once I finish with brightener. No rain for next week. My concern is the temps this week are in the low 60’s and fall into the mid to low 30’s in the evening. Then nothing but rain in the forecast the rest of March. I do not believe the evening temps are good for the cure time. Should I wait on using the brightener until I have a clear time when I can stain? Thanks

Matt
Matt
1 month ago

Thanks! Did the brightener today and will wait 48 hrs. Check the weather/temps and get it done.

Marcus Sucro
Marcus Sucro
2 months ago

Hi, I’ve been asked to redo a large fairly new deck in the beach area of SoCal. The deck was brand new about 2 years ago and the builder used Behr semi-transparent. It has failed significantly (badly peeling on most horizontal areas and mostly mildew on vertical). I’m planning to strip and neutralize but need your advice on what semi-transparent to use to hold up the best in our high UV but also high moisture/humidity environment.

Link to Google photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/KrdRh5gBQNEFrkpE8

Josh M
Josh M
4 months ago

Hi Scott, I’m really enjoying your site and the great work that you do. I’m working to restore a Redwood deck in Los Angeles, the stain was applied in May 2021, I’m not sure what kind it was but I’ve included a close up picture from May 2022, it had worsened from this time to now. We have already sanded all the flat surfaces, but not the vertical 4×4 posts or vertical aspects or underneath aspects of the railings. Was thinking to use RAD products, please let me know what you’d recommend for prep and stain. In particular, do you think I need to use stain stripping, or can I just use cleaner and power wash. Thanks!

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Josh M
Josh M
4 months ago

Thank you for the quick response! Is RAD Stain Stripper sufficient or do I need the Paint version? Also, How should I think about the decision to go with RAD (water-based) vs Armstrong (oil-based)? Thank you!

JoshM
JoshM
4 months ago

Here’s a pic of the unstripped vertical. Let me know what you think! Also, let me know how to think about whether I should do an oil-based Armstrong or the water-based rad product. Thank you!

Josh M
Josh M
3 months ago

Try this

Josh M
Josh M
3 months ago

I cropped it to reduce file size, thanks!

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Mike
Mike
6 months ago

Hello – I have new (6 months) Cedar posts and Cedar Tone wood used for a privacy (slats). I will be staining using a semi-transparent (per your guidance) to protect mostly from UV. don’t want color change. My question – I will use a cleaner but is a brightener necessary? I decided to use Defy Ultra for the stain.

Planconcept
6 months ago

I have white cedar siding on my home in New England that is about 8 years old. In 2018/2019, you recommended TWP 1500, clear, as well as another product that was water-based that I can’t recall. I went with the TWP, which did a nice job of repelling water. However, there is a great deal of mold/mildew. I would like to go with another product (that is clear. I like the look of the natural wood) that minimizes the mildew, etc. What do you recommend?

Bill
Bill
6 months ago

Yes that isn’t a problem. I actually prefer some graying.

Bill
Bill
6 months ago

Thanks for the quick reply

Edna
Edna
7 months ago

Hello,
I would love your advice on my small deck.
-It is only 6 months old.
-I used Olympic Waterguard. 1 coat 3 weeks after installation & then another coat about a month ago because it looked splotchy & faded.
-There are also cracks running along a couple of the boards.

I am looking at the RAD products as I would like to protect it and gave a richer color.

I took a photo of the underside of the deck, which still has the nice color.

-Should I use the RAD stripper & brightener?
-Can I fill in the cracks with wood putty?
-If I use the RAD stain what color is closest to the original redwood?

Thank you so much!

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Tai
Tai
7 months ago

Hi and thanks for such an informative site! We have an IPE fence that is approximately 1 year old, which we are looking to re-stain as the IPE Oil stain has faded considerably since the fence was constructed. I would consider re-using IPE Oil, although going with a lower VOC product (like RAD or Armstrong Clark) is appealing if they perform similarly since the IPE Oil made our whole property stink for a week and I don’t relish the idea of experiencing that again (especially if we re-stain annually).

Assuming we switch products, what prep would your recommend for our fence? The surface is somewhat rough to the touch and the painters we have spoken with have suggested sanding it as part of the prep process. Would the process differ if we went with an oil based vs a water based stain? How would the process differ if we decide to use IPE Oil again instead of switching stains? Thanks!

1. New Wood or Older Wood? ~1 yr old IPE
2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes
3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Undecided
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? IPE Oil, applied prior to construction
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil Based, Semi-Transparent
6. Mold or Mildew Issues? No
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Time and sun exposure? My understanding is none of these stains really last more than about a year on IPE, so the current state is not unexpected. I don’t actually think it looks that bad, but it is much lighter than it originally was and I assume we should re-stain it now rather than waiting.

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Terry
Terry
8 months ago

Thanks for the informative site! Question about re finishing a deck that has large areas of old red (not black)rust stains from an irrigation system that had high iron content in water. (See pic)
Answers to your questions:
1. Old wood that is in good condition except for graying and red rust stain
2 – 6 Deck has been treated (not apparently stained) previously but with what is unknown. (A simple water seal?) It has a natural finish and that’s what the owner would like to preserve.
6. No mold, mildew issues
7. Just showing the effects of UV exposure I think.

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Lauren
Lauren
8 months ago

Not sure how to prep or stain this Wisconsin deck. We liked the color and transparency of the first stain we put on after moving in (Behr Semi-Transparent Waterproofing Wood Stain, Cedar Naturaltone #3533), but it was hard to put on evenly. The second time the big box store sold us the “same product” in a different brand. It was more opaque, too orange, and didn’t last as well. But it did seem to keep the mildew at bay much better.

Questions:
What do we need to do to prep the deck? Deck cleaner only, or deck cleaner and stripper?
Do you have a suggestion for stain type and/or brand? Looking to keep roughly similar color, but more transparent if it won’t look weird over current patchy stain.

  1. New Wood or Older Wood? Old wood
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes, Cabot Semi-Solid Stain + Sealer, Rustic Cedar, Neutral Base
  3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Not sure about brand. Looking for semi-transparent.
  4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Cabot Semi-Solid Stain + Sealer, Rustic Cedar, Neutral Base
  5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Oil, semi-solid
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues? Very mild
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Stain coming off in high-traffic locations.
  8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.

First picture is more representative. Second two pictures are high traffic areas. Last picture is the last stain used.

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Sophie
Sophie
8 months ago

Hi Scott, I love your website, it was a huge help when we had to recover our new deck only 1 year after we stained it using a bad product (recommended by the contractor who built our deck).
After this debacle, we sanded the deck to remove all the flaky stain and applied the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit. Then used TWP 1500 Series in May 2019 and now I really should be applying a maintenance coat ( it probably should have been done last year). I want to use the same brand/same product/same color but I am not sure about the preparation. I was planning on only sanding with 60 grit sand paper and then rinse it with water? Please advise: is the sanding unnecessary and I should only use a deck cleaner + brightener? Or does the old coat need to be sanded because of the UV greying?
To answer your questions:

  1. New Wood or Older Wood? Deck is pressure treated pine – 7 years old
  2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes
  3. I am Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color
  4. TWP1500 Rustic color
  5. Semi-transparent Oil-Based 
  6. Mold or Mildew Issues? Not really
  7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? UV greying
  8. Please see pictures attached
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Sophie
Sophie
8 months ago

Thanks a lot for your quick answer. I do not have a pressure washer. If I apply the Gemini cleaner and brush it with a deck scrub brush, would that ok too?

Sherri
Sherri
9 months ago

Hi Scott! So glad I found your website! I have read through a lot and watched the youtube videos. I have a few questions to make sure I am on the right path.

We bought new cedar for our deck 3 years ago. It is cedar select tight 1 knot. “Our guy” stained it with Olympic Maximum stain and seal, espresso color. One coat. He is excellent in all the work he does!!! He has done everything for us. The deck staining, though, just didn’t turn out nice at all. He said he wasn’t sure what went wrong. I’ve been reading about prepping new wood, and not sure he did that.

Anyway, I want our deck to look better and enjoy it. It is a wrap around porch with an extension for bbq, dining, sitting, etc. It is all completely covered, except the steps up front and part of the side of the extension. I’m attaching pictures. 🙂

1. Since it is espresso color (dark), do you think the Restore a Deck stripper and wood brightener are enough to have a clean surface to start all over?

2. What do you think went wrong (picture 2 specifically) with the initial application? It never looked even (they sprayed and went over to with a pad). It had this soapy residue that hasn’t ever seemed to come off even with several sweeps, scrubs, pressure washing. It looks and feels dull. Not at all what we were expecting.

3. Picture 4 shows the drips. Should we focus on removing these as well? We plan to restain with a darkish color again. Is this a normal look, or do people hand paint them, etc?

4. Picture 3 shows area exposed to the sun. It completely strips off with a pressure washer, even softly and from a distance. Is this normal for stain? If I pressure wash the house, it does not strip the paint in the slightest.

We are in the Seattle area.

Thank you for any help!!!

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Sherri
Sherri
9 months ago

Thank you so, incredibly, much for your thorough reply!!! I am have asked at several stores and have not received such clear advice as yours. I really appreciate it!!!

Sam Balda
Sam Balda
9 months ago

Hi Scott, we jut bought a house with a 16-year old 24’x12′ deck that’s in fairly good condition but needs some work. The stain is partially faded and the wood is rough and cracked/splintering. There’s even mushrooms growing out of a few boards! I am planning to pressure wash and sand before staining, but was wondering if I still needed cleaner, stripper, or brightener if I am sanding everything down. Thank you for your help!

Older wood (from 2007)
Current Coating: Partially stained
Switching Brands of Deck Stain
Deck Stain Brand previously used: unknown
Current Deck Stain Type: Semi-solid, I think.
Mold or Mildew Issues: Black mildew under railings, orange fungus growing out of some boards
Reason for Previous Stain Failure: Foot traffic, lack of maintenance

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Richard DeLuna
Richard DeLuna
9 months ago

Hi, I have a cedar deck about a year old that was finished with a light coat of TWP 100 series. After a monumental winter up here in Tahoe, there are some black spots or rings from a couple chairs that were left out. Can I clean, Brighten, then re-stain? Will the cleaner take out some of the black marks from the chair sitting in one spot?

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