Best Stain for New Cedar Deck 2022 4.8/5 (115)

This post was updated on May 2, 2022

Best Stain for New Cedar Deck

We appreciate you visiting Deckstainhelp.com, your go-to source for the latest in deck restoration news and trending topics through 2022. If you are looking for honest deck stain ratings, look no further. In this updated article, we offer suggestions for how to best prepare and stain a new cedar deck. Feel free to leave a comment below.


What Stains Work Well on New Cedar Deck

New Cedar Wood Decking stains

New Cedar Wood

There are many different types of cedar used for exterior surfaces with Red Cedar being the most common. We recommend you wait 3+ months to stain new smooth cedar wood surfaces to allow the wood to weather, creating an ideal porous surface that will hold the stain better. (Always follow the stain brand’s directions, though). After the weathering, all new cedar wood should be cleaned and brightened for the prep. This will remove any oxidation and mill glaze.

New Rough Sawn Cedar Wood

Rough sawn wood is not used for horizontal decking surface, but rather verticals such as fencing, wood siding, etc. This side of the wood does not have a mill glaze and is very absorbent. As long as the wood has a low moisture content, it can be stained right away.

Many wood stains have difficulty penetrating new dense woods like cedar. If a stain does not penetrate the wood it will remain on the surface and become susceptible to peeling and flaking. The best wood stains for new cedar are deep penetrating paraffinic oil-based stains that are thinner in viscosity. Stains for new cedar wood should dive deep into the wood to condition the wood cells and provide protection from UV fading and moisture damage.

We like a couple of different stains for new cedar wood. One is Armstrong Clark Wood Stain. It is composed of both drying and non-drying oils that break apart from one another throughout the application process. The non-drying oils dive into the new cedar to condition the wood’s cellular structure while the separated drying oils cure on the exposed surface to not only lock in the conditioning oils but to protect the surface from natural weather exposure.

Another similar stain best for new cedar wood is Timber Oil Brand. This is a paraffin oil-based wood and deck stain that penetrates deep into new cedar wood and decks. This cedar stain conditions the wood cells while providing water and UV protection. The Timber Oil brand promises ease of application of good penetration into new decking.

Prepping new cedar wood is important to stain life and performance. New cedar wood should be cleaned using a sodium percarbonate wood cleaner to remove mill glaze and other contaminants that may have infiltrated the wood during construction.

Once the new cedar wood has been cleaned the wood will appear darker. While the wood is still wet, apply a wood brightener to restore the cedar wood’s original color. Brightening wood after it has been cleaned will also open the wood pores to allow the conditioning oils to penetrate better.

Proper cleaning and brightening will ensure the best stain for new cedar wood will perform as expected and provide lasting beauty.

Staining a New Deck Tips Video – DeckStainHelp.com

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Denie Goulet
Denie Goulet
1 month ago

Built a new deck last year. Cedar top board, pressure treated frame. Ready to seal the cedar. 11 months old right now. What should I use? Oil Base or water based? What’s the difference? How many applications should I do? Live in Edmonton Alberta. Deck is on the south side of the house so is in full sunlight all day long. Hot in the summer, long cold winters with lots of snow.

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Chuck
Chuck
4 months ago

I finished my project a few weeks ago and am very happy with the results. Here are several pictures, some before, during and post project. The deck was originally completed with Sherwin Williams Super Deck oil based transparent (Natural). The contractor sanded too fine, likely resulting in the poor adhesion. To fix this I sanded back to bare wood, allowed to weather for 60 days, pressure washed, then conditioned with TWP 2 step deck brightener. Then stained with TWP 1101 oil based cedar tone, spraying on first coat, then used pad applicator to place second coat before first coat dried. The deck was allowed to dry for 8 days before stepping on it (not intentional, just happened to be away).

Last edited 4 months ago by ChuckZ
Chuck
Chuck
4 months ago

I thought I had with the comment but appears they were not accepted. Any limit on size or number of pictures?

DSH
DSH
4 months ago

Testing pic

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Chuck
Chuck
4 months ago
Reply to  Chuck

Here are some pictures, before, during, and after

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Louis
Louis
6 months ago

I have had a cedar deck for approx 2 years. It turned a nice natural gray but some mold set in (you could see some uneven black areas) and the wood started to chip a little. We had someone clean the deck-they used Mold Armor product. The deck is now back to more yellowish color and is uneven. They are recommending Benjamin Moore Arborcoat semi-transparent stain. I do not see many natural gray options (although westcott navy and amherst gray looked ok-need to see it on the deck first). What do you recommend hearing this? Thanks

ChuckZ
ChuckZ(@chuckz)
7 months ago

Hello,

I have sanded my 1 year old cedar deck back to bare wood. The initial finish was done too soon after install, resulting in mold under the Sherwin Williams super deck transparent stain. There has also been a lot of flaking where exposed to direct sunlight.

I sanded using 120 grit paper. Do I need to fine tune this with finer grit paper and if so what grit?

I am planning to clean with a mold killing product since mold has been present already however the sanding has removed almost all evidence of this. Do I need to use a wood brightner since im back to virgin wood? Any guidance on how soon to stain after sanding back to virgin wood?

Thank you

Last edited 7 months ago by ChuckZ
ChuckZ
ChuckZ
7 months ago

What is the suggested grit to use? Thanks for the feedback.

ChuckZ
ChuckZ
5 months ago

I’m going to use a cleaner/brightener but looking for recommendations on which product to use. After that I will stain with 2 coats TWP 101 using spray on then pad apply.

After the staining does the deck need to be sealed, or does the TWP 101 do all the sealing required?

Tim
Tim
7 months ago

I am in Texas having a 12×25 cedar deck installed in November. The deck will be Fully Covered. Installer said only to wait 2-3 weeks to “dry out” before they will fully hand sand the entire deck with palm orbital, then stain using our selection. 1. Is sanding not recommended or should this be done before or after the weathering? 2. Is there a minimum temperature to apply the stain since we stay moderate in Texas but it can get to freezing. Ie if we get a moderate week in Dec or Jan is it ok to do it the? 3. Are we doing a lot of harm by only waiting a few weeks vs months to stain after installation? I guess we are all impatient to just get the job done and not letting the wood turn grey.
Thank You! Great website!!

Karla Blerot
Karla Blerot
7 months ago

Can I put linseed oil on my newly built cedar deck for the winter and then possibly stain it next spring? I live in Saskatchewan.

Shawn Chelf
Shawn Chelf
10 months ago

We are in central Indiana. We have a 3yo smooth cedar deck, almost 10k sf of decking total. Full sun about 3/4 of the day. We have alot of wood to cover so which would be the best/longest wearing for our situation? Also, due to the amount of work this is, we want something that will be easy to maintain (not needing to be completely stripped each time), even better if anything is able to be “spot maintenance” in traffic areas. Considering Defy (Hardwood for smooth cedar?) but not sure about water-based vs oil-based AC… Also, has anyone had experience using Earthpaint Rainforest Sealer? I searched this site but did not see it being mentioned anywhere.

Last edited 10 months ago by Shawn Chelf
Michael Haas
Michael Haas
10 months ago

I have a Western Red Cedar Deck that is about 15 years old. I stained it and it turned grey within a few months. It has been like that ever since. Now I want to run each board through a planer and reinstall it and stain or seal it. I don’t want it to go grey again. What stain should I use?

Zachary
Zachary
11 months ago

I have 33 boards of rough sawn cedar 1×8 I’m going to put up as facia. What is the best clear cedar stain to use that shows the color of the cedar and lasts longest. Much thanks!

Zachary
Zachary
11 months ago

Many thanks guys and gals! Last Q. I’m thinking of putting smooth side out Of the 1×8 rough sawn cedar for the facia. Soo Sand with 60-80 grit, then 100 grit and dust off, wash, then use Armstrong Clark redwood tint transparent Oil .. will this suffice? Thanks again

Linda
Linda
1 year ago

If I am needing to have my deck redone due to a poor job and color error, is it okay to switch from the original cabot Australian timber oil to another brand, and what would you suggest? Something went wrong and deck is almost a bright yellow, along with an blotchy ceiling. We need to tone it down and shift it back to a natural or a light brown tone (and get ceiling even).Thanks so much.

linda
linda
1 year ago

Thanks- last question- Can anything be done about the rough posts. I don’t think they can be sanded, but anyway to change the color?

Steve
Steve
1 year ago

I just installed two new 4′ x 8′ cedar sections to my dock. I have 4 other sections (also cedar) that are 4 years old which I never stained or sealed. The decking was dark gray and did not look at all. I power sprayed the old deck this past weekend and it looks a lot better, but nowhere near as good as the how the new deck looks. Should I wait 3 months and use a stripper/brightener on everything, then stain it all together?

Josh
Josh
1 year ago

Hello,
I too built a new cedar deck last spring and was also told to use Ready Seal clear stain on it, and to do so within the first few weeks. After applying this, deck had an oily/slick feel to it and turned gray within the first few months, so I cleaned it and reapplied the Ready Seal. Same thing again, oily feel and turned gray once fall hit.

After reading through this site now I have realized I did it all wrong. I have since scrubbed/cleaned the deck this week in hopes to prepare it to do it the correct way this time. I used Krub Kutter Cleaner to clean the deck. It has dried for a few days now and I see some fuzzies on the wood and the wood is a bright color.

My question is, has the wood been able to weather the appropriate time now even though I applied 2 coats of sealer to it last year? Also, should a stripper, cleaner, and brightener be used or is the preparation I have done with the Krud Kutter cleaner enough to apply new coat of stain/sealer? I live in KY and the deck is exposed to sunlight all day long.

Thank you for all of your information you have provided on this site! I wish I would have found this earlier.

Amy
Amy
1 year ago

I’m planning to put cedar siding on my carport in Hawaii; we have limited placed to buy stain supplies. What would you recommend as the best semi transparent stain and wood cleaner that I could get at home depot?

Amy
Amy
1 year ago

didn’t think so, but figured I would check since no one ships to Hawaii either.

Eric
Eric
1 year ago

I have a 5 yr old cedar pergola that’s never been stained. I am looking for something easy to apply and last several years. Also, in the article you recommended timber oil, are referring to Cabots Australian Timber oil?

Marie
Marie
1 year ago

Very helpful. Question, just installed a western cedar deck and it’s too late to stain if we’re going to wait 3 months. Meanwhile, it rained and the deck is very slippery when wet, what recommendations do you have for reducing slippage it’s the main entrance and we’re in a northern climate so it’s a deck that will also be shoveled.
Thank you.

Donna
Donna
1 year ago

Any recommendations on using some type of hardener for an Atlantic white cedar deck, the wood is soft and dents easily. Maybe shellac or eurathane?

Pam Fisher
Pam Fisher
1 year ago

It’s October and the weather will turn cold soon. Getting ready to install our cedar deck. Do we wait until Spring to stain and seal? We do not want the gray look but rather want the natural cedar look. If we wait it would be April-May before it is warm enough to apply stain.

Thanks for your help

Paco E
Paco E
1 year ago

We had a pergola built last week out of Alaskan yellow cedar and we were going to stain this weekend but read that we should wait 3+ months. We live in Colorado. Is it ok to let it weather over the winter and wait till spring to stain? And should we use an oil base or water base stain? We’ve read conflicting information on both.

Korey B
Korey B
1 year ago

I just got a new cedar deck installed. Contractors told me to seal before before they added fencing. Sealed with thompsons water seal. I wasnt aware of the mill glaze at the time. After the first rain a few days later it was leaving some brown water marks where water puddles were.Sanded it down to remove all of the sealant and since then I’ve been getting these black marks. I thought mildew at first but I think they may be rust spots since some of the areas that have less of it are in the shade most of the day. I used some steel wool to clean the sealant off of the sandpaper from my orbital sander since it was clogging up from the sealant so quickly. Sanding seems to clear it all but then the black marks appear after rain again (Although I havent tried avoiding using the steel wool to clean off the orbital sander yet). Any suggestions on what to do? I don’t mind sanding again and avoiding the steel wool if need be. I was hoping to stain it as well before winter sets in.

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Korey B
Korey B
1 year ago

It appears to absorb water okay since I sanded into the wood some. Should I still wait and let it weather over the winter as you mentioned above?

Bing P.
Bing P.
1 year ago

I am assembling a pergola from rough sawn red cedar in a couple weeks. I am in SE Michigan. My wife would like to keep the new color rather than let it turn grey. What is your recommendation to maintain the like-new color? Should I still use a semi-transparent vs a transparent stain? Should I hold off staining as others have done?

Bing P.
Bing P.
1 year ago

Thank you for such a quick response! Should I hold off on staining or is it ok to stain right away? My initial plan was to stain all the lumber before putting it together touching up where needed. Thanks again!

Katie K.
Katie K.
1 year ago

I had a new large cedar deck replaced May 2019. I have not done one thing with it but need to do something. It has now grayed but I loved the original look when it was brand new. I want to try and restore that natural look while protecting it as much as possible. Live in Iowa, cold winters and hot humid summers. Thank you. P.S. 61 years old and wanting to do the work myself, is this feasible? How long do you need to make sure it’s not going to rain?please be specific on the products you suggest and color to keep it that natural look.

Wayne
Wayne
1 year ago

I have a new Alaska yellow cedar deck (with knots). The installer told me to wait three or four weeks before treating or staining it. I plan to use is semi-transparent honey colored tint. The decking is developing small black spots that look like mold. It is widespread across the deck, more dense in places. Should I use a deck cleaner/brightened before staining. Should that remove the black spots or will the stain cover/hide the spots? Thanks in advance for any pointers

Terry Caswell
Terry Caswell
1 year ago

I made a big mistake, I stained my new white cedar deck right after it was installed. It’s very tacky. Is there anything I can do now?

Len Richter
Len Richter
1 year ago

what about older cider decks ?

Jeff L
Jeff L
1 year ago

I have a 5 year old white cedar deck (in Pennsylvania.) Twice treated with Armorcoat semi-transparent stain (perhaps improperly applied). Chronic problem with stain not penetrating and uneven build-up leading to flaking and peeling. Deck recently sanded down to bare wood (50 grit sanding belts). What is recommended procedure for re- treatment. What product will penetrate best and last longest.

Patrick
Patrick
1 year ago

Hi, I have 5 year old white cedar deck in northern MI, I have stained twice with Armstrong. The original stain was applied by the person that built the deck – big mistake. The deck has been stain free for almost two years. I will clean and brighten this week with restore a deck 1 and 2 and stain in 2 weeks, weather permitting. I am thinking of using Sikkens Proluxe DEK. My log siding was stained with a Sikkens products 4 year ago and stills looks like it was stained yesterday. What is your opinion of the Sikkens product compared with TWP or Armstrong.

Patrick
Patrick
1 year ago

Thanks for the fast response. What about the Sikkens (PPG) SRK? If not, then should I lean toward the TWP 1500?

Bob Young
Bob Young
1 year ago

I stained a new cedar after following manufacture s direction 1winter it pealed badly I have waited two winters and i am now sanding to bare wood any further steps that I should the deck is 800 sq ft What stain would you recommend

Eric
Eric
2 years ago

2 seasons ago I had a new Cedar deck installed. I waited a few months and then used deck cleaner, then
Woodrich Deck Brightener & Neutralizer and then Woodrich Timber Oil. After the winter the deck look horrible. The leaves that had fallen on the deck left dark leaf imprints. I used these same products a second time and in using the cleaner with a brush everything looked good again but when brushing the brush would “clog” with a dark, pasty, substance literally every board foot of cleaning. After all was done I applied stain again.

Now with the new warmer weather the deck looks horrible. There are very light/white streaks over most of the deck. I tried a small sample area and the cleaner works great but again, the brush is clogging with this same dark, pasty substance. Before I clean the entire deck again I’m looking for suggestions as to what is causing the problem and what the “stuff” is that I am brushing off with the cleaner. Also would like a suggestion as to what to apply once cleaned again.

I am in NY, outside of Manhattan. There are no trees that are over the deck but the oak leaves do accumulate.

Thanks.

Lois
Lois
2 years ago

Just sanded all the up right cedar posts and rails.
Can this be stained now or should we wait?
What is the best oil based stain to use?

Lois
Lois
2 years ago
Reply to  Lois

We are in Canada

Marilyn
Marilyn
2 years ago

We are having our current deck replaced with cedar decking. We have a lower deck and a upper deck, the upper deck is around our pool. I have been trying to see when and what type of sealant to use either oil or waterbased? Everything I have read said the an oil sealer is the best and the most natural to preserve the natural beauty of the cedar.

With all of that being said we have also read that you should wait anywhere from 2 weeks to 1 year??? The guys that are installing it said the cedar is dry and they will be giving it a light sand when they are done. So we were wondering if we can put a sealer on when they are done or should we wait? Since it is around the pool on the upper deck I am not sure what to do.

Thank you in advance,
Marilyn

Marilyn
Marilyn
2 years ago

Thank you … what about the sealer? do you suggest the oil? if so what brand do you recommend.

Thank You

Marc A Hyman
Marc A Hyman
2 years ago

When you say Timber Oil, are yiu referring to Cabots Australian timber oil?

My problem is that i purchased that but they don’t make a Clear version, only Natural and i DON’T want to change the color of the weod. Natural WR cedar is beautiful just the way it is and does not need added color!!!

My deck, stairs, railings, fence and trellis are a combination of 1) natural cedar, 2) cedar- toned, pressure treated southern pine, and 3) regular pt pine.

What do you recommend for sealing?

Thank you.

Marc in Maryland

Sanchai
Sanchai
2 years ago

[New Rough Sawn Cedar Wrapped Posts]
Hello, my wife and I have found this article and questions/comments very helpful. I need clarification on a few things.

Do I need to CLEAN and BRIGHTEN my new rough sawn cedar wrapped posts before staining? Or can I simply stain it now (spring time)?

We want the natural color of cedar as possible and understand the need for UV protection. We’ll be trying samples of your recommended Armstrong and TWP products with some tint.

What should I expect for maintenance and reapplying the stain in Pacific NW weather?

Thank you!

Janet Cobb
Janet Cobb
2 years ago

We have a 95 x 12 foot red cedar deck that is almost 10 years old. It was originally stained with a cedar colored Behr deck stain. About 4 years ago it was stripped, brightened and stained with a product called TWP, and only held up for 2 years, then we couldn’t find that product in Fairbanks, Alaska, so we applied Superdeck without stripping. It is already wearing off. Could you make a recommendation on what action to take next. We are planning to strip, brighten and re-stain, but are unsure on what products to use and how long to wait between steps.

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

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Jason
Jason
2 years ago

Hi, I just purchased and installed a 6ft cedar fence (Home Depot). It has a nice light, clean look. I want to protect it but I am hesitant because I do not want to compromise the light look. It appears that using an oil based semi-transparent stain is the best option for protecting the cedar. However, all these stains appear to leave the cedar with a red looking finish, even when the natural color is selected. Perhaps I am better suited to just apply a sealer, but also have reservations about using only a sealer as I have been told its more likely to gray if just a sealer is used. Any suggestions in terms of what option is best to preserve the natural look while properly treating the cedar? If so, which products are best in each category? Final question, How long should I wait before applying either the stain or sealer? The fence has been up for 1 week. Thank you, Stay Healthy!

STR
STR
1 year ago
Reply to  Jason

I used Thompson’s Clear on my year old cedar split fence. It has not yet grayed. The color really popped. It is a sealer and has UV protection. So far very pleased. Now I need to find a stain to match it on a grayed older portion.

Lou B
Lou B(@lou-b)
2 years ago

I live on Long Island and have a vaulted roof over my deck. The ceiling is clear cedar tongue and groove which is about 6 years old. I pressure washed it about 3 years ago at half throttle. It did a very good job and the wood looked great after it dried. I sealed it with a product that I bought on line, but now it’s time to do it again. I will try one of your suggestions, but I’m wondering which one of these products (semi transparent) will adhere the best as it is a very messy job with the work area above your head. Also, the ceiling gets no sun at anytime of the day all year long, so I’m looking for a product that will last a bit longer. I don’t remember what I used last time, but it was like water. Thanks

Lou B
Lou B(@lou-b)
2 years ago

Ok, thank you.

Darlene
Darlene
2 years ago

Do all the staining instructions applied to white cedar also

Terry Schwefel
Terry Schwefel
2 years ago

I replaced my deck last summer with new Red Cedar decking from Menards. Last fall I went to Menards and ask them what was best to protect it, and was lead to Thompsons water seal.
We did not want to cover the deck grain, so we were lead what we thought was what we needed.

Note, deck was dry, and we were never told that anything was needed to do. Before applying the sealer. We applied the sealer with brush and roller with good coverage, and all looked ok.

When the sealer was cured, we noticed with the morning dew, and rain the water would puddle up on the wood, and it made it very slippery. Could hardly walk on it without slipping/Falling!!
Over the weeks, we also noticed the sealer applied started to come loose, and peel off.
Now I have have new red cedar deck that looks like crapp! After winter (live in Wisconsin) I see a lot of the sealer has come off.

Need someone to tell me how, and what to use to first of all remove all the sealer still on the wood. Also there are some dark spots I need to remove. What cleaner for that as well?
How/what to use to treat, send hopefully bring it back to its original condition.

Best sealer and way to seal it, without covering up the grain.
If you sell the products needed, please send me items and price to order as needed.
Or send me item info so I can purchase from local
Deck size ?
Need to clean and seal 26 X 16 feet long red cedar deck board.
Know this for sure as I replaced every one!!

Send me your email, and I can send pictures of my nightmare!!
Look forward to your response and working with you.
Terry Schwefel

Uchenna Emeagwali
Uchenna Emeagwali
2 years ago

Hi I have a cedar deck and I live in Long Island New York. Which is the best stain that I should use? Carpenter recommended Arborcoat but it didn’t get good reviews

Kyle
Kyle
2 years ago

Hi I built a new cedar deck last fall and intended to stain this past spring or summer after giving the cedar a chance to weather, but never was able to get around to it. I live in Portland OR and we are having a rare week long dry period, so I decided to stain now as winter is approaching. (Before finding your website and realizing I probably shouldn’t have sanded) I cleaned the deck with the Olympic deck cleaner product and then sanded the deck (last pass was 80 grit). I was going to apply the stain this morning but after reading this article and your replies to other comments, I am wondering if maybe I should wait until spring (or maybe summer as spring is rather wet and unpredictable around here). What’s your recommendation for how I proceed from here? No product has been applied. Home Depot guy recommended using an Olympic product (I think it was elite or maximum) that he said could be applied even if wood is wet (which it sort of is from the morning fog).

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Carl
Carl
2 years ago

Our painter recommended that to clean the greying and dirt of a new cedar deck (installed in July) we should power wash it. We let him do this. The deck is clean but it looks uneven and splotchy. Was this a mistake? If we use a transparent stain will we enhance these imperfections? Should we sand the deck before staining?

Reuben
Reuben
2 years ago

Do I need to weather rough sawn cedar if it passes an absorption test?

Michael Dobby
Michael Dobby
2 years ago

Hello from Ontario. I’m having a small deck built at the moment with two posts and a pergola of cedar and with winter approaching should I get it stained now or wait till spring. Than you .

michael
michael
2 years ago

Hello! We are in Chicago and just built a deck and 2 fences using cedar. I see you recommend waiting until spring to stain. Will it turn grey over the winter? Temperatures in the high 50s now but turning colder soon. Id had to rush to stain now if not necessary, but we don’t want a grey deck/fences. Any advice would be appreciated.

Mike
Mike
2 years ago

Thank you so much! I didn’t realize you could remove the grey and restore it to the “new cedar” look ! Do you recommend waiting until next summer to stain / seal to let the wood cure? I presume the same for the cedar fence ?

Mike
Mike
2 years ago
Reply to  Mike

I see that the TWP 200 that you recommend has a temp range of 45-95 F, so we could still stain / seal the deck this year using this product. However, the deck / fences are only about a month old. Do you still recommend waiting 7-12 months to stain/seal ?

Bob
Bob
2 years ago

I have new western cedar from a saw mill. I’m going to wrap the posts on my porch and would like to keep as much of the original color and look as possible. What is the best product to use

Lori
Lori
2 years ago

This site is very informative, thank you! We just had a cedar gazebo built w/ a shingles roof. Posts are rough sawn, ceiling smooth tongue and groove. We are in Michigan and heading into winter. My lack of decision on a stain as well as lots of wet weather have prevented staining this far. Are we ok to wait until spring? Can you recommend a stain brand color that will achieve a medium brown/gray look with no yellow/red/orange tones? I have sampled a few Olympic Elite colors with no luck. I love the look of the pillars someone posted in a pic in the comments which you said were untreated.

Have you heard of the Lifetime Wood Treatment product? It is supposed to achieve a natural patina quickly while protecting the wood for a lifetime. Too good to be true??

Thanks!

Lori
Lori
2 years ago

Thank you! Will try those.

Lori
Lori
2 years ago

I was able to get some samples of the colors you mentioned as well as a few colors of the Defy. I actually like one of the Defy colors best (butternut). What is the difference between the defy extreme and the extreme 40? Which should I use? If I want to keep the ceiling of the gazebo natural cedar color, (no stain) would you recommend the extreme clear? Is the water based defy less effective than an oil based stain? I like that defy seems less shiny that the oil ones I tested also. Thanks!

Jackie
Jackie
2 years ago

My contractor sealed my new 20’x30’ cedar deck while the wood was saturated. There had been a lot of rain prior to him sealing it, and he said he had “blown” some water off from around he posts the day he applied it. Needless to say it did not cure(?). It was blotchy, sticky, and shiny. His solution was to power wash the product off (just did this yesterday), wait until it dries, then apply the sealer again. I am concerned this has damaged the wood and/or really messed it up. He seems like he is not willing to put the work into fixing the problem properly … or maybe he his and I am freaking out for no reason. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Jackie
Jackie
2 years ago

Thanks! That’s what I thought. In looking at it more this morning, the power washing cause the wood to become furry (if that makes sense). Has he ruined the new cedar?

Jackie
Jackie
2 years ago

Thank you! That’s what I thought. My fear is that the power washing has caused the new cedar to become furry (if that makes sense). Has he ruined the wood?

Jackie
Jackie
2 years ago

He is saying he is going to sand it lightly then reseal it after it drys. No weathering time was allowed before the first application of Wolman oil based clear sealer. I am concerned we just keep going from bad to worst.

Michael Connolly
Michael Connolly
2 years ago

Hi. I have to refinish a cedar deck that’s more than two years old. The old stain is almost completely worn off. I will sand to prep for staining. Should I pressure wash first? For older cedar, would you still recommend the two products mentioned in your article? Thanks!

Michael Connolly
Michael Connolly
2 years ago

Thanks. That’s very useful. I should have mentioned that I live in Montreal, Canada so we get very cold winters, snow and ice. After my first post, I was reading your review of Restore-a-Deck Stain. Would you recommend it in this situation?

Michael Connolly
Michael Connolly
2 years ago

Hi again. I have been reading up on the cleaners and brighteners. If possible, I’d like to avoid using these products because of the chemicals. Is there an effective approach to preparing for staining without the cleaner and brightener? Thanks for your help.

Bob Dack
Bob Dack
2 years ago

I’m planning to replace the decking at my mountain cabin next spring after snow melt using western red cedar. If I purchase the decking 3 or 4 months in advance can it “weather” in my shop if stacked using spacers between each layer for airflow?

pearl harwood
pearl harwood
2 years ago

i am purchasing western cedar tongue and groove siding for my beach home. The company is willing to stain the cedar on all six sides. I have a few question. I was reading some of these comments it was mentioned that the cedar should be exposed to the elements for 3 months before staining. I have to put it up before winter sets in. what should i do?
Also I can not have any product that will peel like paint. Should i use oil base or water? Is there a product that should be used before staining and after staining? The siding in front of my house is exposed to sun all day and salt air . I love the N.Y.C. look of modern cedar added to some of the buildings as accent. I want the rows of cedar to take on its different colors of wood.
Please help

Pearl Harwood
Pearl Harwood
2 years ago

I understand that I need to let the front of wood season first and then prep and stain. Before the siding is put up, does the back and sides of the cedar siding need something to protect the wood from mold and wetness.

Douglas Aucoin
Douglas Aucoin
2 years ago

I’ve just put together a raw white cedar Adirondack chair from a kit bought online.
I’d like to protect the wood but I’d rather not paint because I like the natural wood, but I’d like to prevent the graying of the wood. Is there a way I can stain the wood with a light stain that will protect against graying? (I understand that a clear stain will not protect against graying, but I’m hoping that I keep the color lighter).

francois
francois
2 years ago

I have a fishing cottage in Quebec about 300 km north of Quebec city. Weather is very harsh for the wood. I will built a new cedar deck but it is north oriented and it has not a lot of sunshine period during the day. Maybe 4 hours in the morning. The trout lake is about 50 feet in front of my cottage and it is very productive . I want to use a protective coating that will preserve the environnement and the natural color of my cedar against UV. I’ am looking for a clear protective. During the winter , snow will be about 6 feet over the deck, Temperature will go minus 30 fahrenheit. What do you recommend ? Is Flaxseed a good protective ? I know it is not harmfull for the environment but I don’ t know what degree of protection it gives against UV .

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