This post was updated on July 2, 2024
I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in staining cedar decks. Most of the wood decks we have worked on have been western red cedar, and when new, you should take care to use a proper wood stain. See here for more info about me.
Best Stain for New Cedar Wood Deck
New Smooth Wood
I appreciate you visiting Deckstainhelp.com, your go-to source for the latest deck restoration news and trending topics through 2024. If you are looking for honest deck stain ratings, look no further. In this updated article, we offer suggestions for how to prepare and stain a new cedar deck. Feel free to leave a comment below.
My Tips for Choosing a Cedar Deck Stain
Are you trying to find the best cedar wood and decking stain? Here are a few things to consider when comparing options and how to stain your brand-new cedar.
- Weather the Cedar Wood
- Prepping New Cedar Wood
- Is your Cedar Rough-Sawn
- Choose a Penetrating Wood Stain
- Compare Best Cedar Stain
- Watch My How to Stain a New Deck Video
- If you have questions on New Cedar Stains, ask me below.
1. Weather the New Cedar Deck
Many types of cedar are used for exterior surfaces, with Red Cedar being the most common. We recommend waiting 3+ months to stain new smooth cedar wood surfaces to allow the wood to weather, creating an ideal porous surface that will hold the stain better. (Always follow the stain brand’s directions, though.) After the weathering, all new cedar wood should be cleaned and brightened for the prep. This will remove any oxidation and mill glaze.
2. Prep New Cedar Wood
Prepping new cedar wood is important to stain life and performance. It should be cleaned using a sodium percarbonate wood cleaner to remove mill glaze and other contaminants that may have infiltrated the wood during construction.
Once the new cedar wood has been cleaned, it will appear darker. While the wood is still wet, apply a wood brightener to restore its original color. Brightening wood after it has been cleaned will also open the wood pores, allowing the conditioning oils to penetrate better.
Proper cleaning and brightening will ensure the best stain for new cedar wood will perform as expected and provide lasting beauty.
3. New Rough Sawn Cedar Wood
Rough-sawn wood is not used for horizontal decking surfaces but rather for vertical surfaces such as fencing, wood siding, etc. This side of the wood is very absorbent and does not have a mill glaze. As long as the wood has a low moisture content, it can be stained immediately.
4. Use a Penetrating Wood Stain
Many wood stains have difficulty penetrating dense wood like cedar. If a stain does not penetrate the wood, it will remain on the surface and become susceptible to peeling and flaking. The best wood stains for new cedar are deep-penetrating wood stains that are thinner in viscosity. Stains for new cedar wood should dive deep into the wood to condition the wood cells and protect from UV fading and moisture damage.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain
We like a couple of different stains for new cedar wood. One is Armstrong Clark Wood Stain. It comprises both drying and non-drying oils that break apart throughout the application process. The non-drying oils dive into the new cedar to condition the wood’s cellular structure, while the separated drying oils cure on the exposed surface to not only lock in the conditioning oils but also protect the surface from natural weather exposure.
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain
Another similar stain best for new cedar wood is Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain. This water-based wood and deck stain penetrates deep into new cedar wood and decks. This cedar stain conditions the wood cells while providing water and UV protection. The Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain brand promises easy application of good penetration into new decking.
My Pro Tip: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain can be applied to damp wood on the same day as prep!
4. Best Deck Stains for Cedar
See our best cedar stain options in the table below. You can click on the links to read the full reviews for each.
Best Water-Based Deck Stain for New Wood | The Easiest Applying Deck Stain for New Wood | Best Oil-Based Deck Stain for New Wood |
Months to Weather New Wood: 3 months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors. | Months to Weather New Wood: 2-3 months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid. | Months to Weather New Wood: 4 - 12 months for all TWP Series and Colors. |
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From: $47.99 *Free Shipping | From: $65.99 *Free Shipping | From: $41.99 *Plus Shipping |
5. Staining a New Deck Tips Video
6. Need Help? Cedar Staining Questions?
Please ask below if you have questions about my article or need tips and advice for staining a cedar deck. Just post a comment below and include as much information as possible.
If you wait three months to stain (presumably after deck boards are installed) what about the underside of the boards? Shouldn’t all sides of the boards be stained, not just the top?
Thanks!
No, only need to stain the exposed/visible wood and in most cases, deck stain manufacturers never suggest to stain all sides as this can create dry rot if fully encapsulated. You want the wood to be able to breathe.
I am getting western red cedar 1x8s installed over old porch posts. Also 2×6 cap on railings. I live in Tennessee, very wet and hot and humid. Can I wait till spring to stain these cedar pieces? It will be too cold to stain in 4 months. The rails and posts are protected from most rain by an overhang. But gets sun in the winter. I want a more brown color which stain do you recommend?
thanks
Yes, Spring would be best to prep and stain. Look at TWP in Dark Oak or Restore A Deck in Dark Walnut colors.
Hello!
My general question is:
Do we need to wait 3 months (depending on our area) to stain the brand new vertical cedar trim and rail caps we will be having installed on our deck later this month?
Details:
Our cedar and trex deck is 25 years old; it is south facing but only about 1/3 of the deck floor gets sun because of area trees.
It has cedar trimmed glass panels with a cedar cap rail;
We have a walk out basement so there is a full (horizontal) cedar slat/board wall that covers the gap to your left as you go down the cedar stairs to ground level.
This month (May) we are replacing all the cedar ONLY.
The trex deck surface, trex stair treads, joists, posts etc. are all fine still – just the cedar is weak in spots.
Ideally, our contractor would stain all the new cedar trim first, then cut it to size and install- touching up any exposed cut ends as needed.
I can see not staining a large flat surface like the entire deck floor for a few months but is it also a bad idea to not wait on the many small, vertical pieces too?? (though the slat wall is quite large though vertical)
And/or could/should we still do the ‘water pooling’ test on the trim pieces? Stain if it is not pooling?
Thanks for answering the same question a zillionth time! I’ve read so many opinions- getting confused!
(for what it is worth – based on your info. – I am leaning towards TWP 100 pro series or 1500!)
Yes, you have to wait: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
You cannot pre-stain. TWP wants 4 months at minimum and only 1 coat:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-stain-waiting-period-for-new-wood
New cedar deck in full sun all day. What deck sealer would you recommend to help protect from uv and high humidity? We are in Iowa so we get hot, humid summers and cold winters.
After the wait and prep, use the Restore A Deck Stains or TWP 100 Series.
Getting ready to build a new covered front porch with cedar decking boards for the flooring. It will be new cedar wood, kiln dried. I’m at that point where I’ve probably read TOO much and am tired of reading and just need to make a decision. Found my way here…what is the step by step process you would recommend? Should I stain before installing or just wait until after installing the boards? Is weathering necessary on kiln dried cedar? Are wood cleaners and brighteners necessary on new cedar wood? And what stain is best for cedar decking boards? I had used Defy Extreme on my flower window boxes that I made and really liked the Butternut color. I was planning on using this exact stain and color on the cedar floor to match the window boxes but then read water-based stain is not good for smooth wood like cedar?!? Alas, information overload is setting in! Please help and thank you!
You need to install, weather for 1-2 monhts, and then prep before applying a stain to kiln dried cedar.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I have a big cedar deck that I inherited, the planks are soft and screws are popping out, it does not look good anymore. I want to replace the wood in stages so we can use the deck this summer.
My question is; if I want to stain the wood should I stain the bottom of the new planks before installing them? I live in northern Ontario, it is very wet in the summer(usually ) and cold in the winters.
Thanks
No need to stain the bottoms.
Which oil-based stain do you recommend for a new rough-sawn cedar fence? Do you recommend washing and brightening the new fence prior to applying the stain? Thank you for all the helpful information.
If rough sawn and the wood is clean and dry, you can stain right away without prep. Use TWP Stains:
https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/twp-wood-stains
or Armstorng Clark Stains:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/wood-and-decking-stains
I have new cedar and metal railings around a plastic deck. It has been weathered for 3 months now. Is it okay to use a water based semi transparent stain and sealer on this?
Thanks,
Yes. See this for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Can I use a urethane to lock in the look of new cedar posts and handrails?
No, it will peel and blister on outside wood.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/apply-polyurethane-to-a-deck/
I have an old cedar deck and am replacing the bad boards, maybe 35% of the floor boards total. I want to sand all the old floorboards plus railings, etc, that are left and would like to stain the whole deck with TWP 1500 honey tone. I know I should let the new boards weather at least 4 months before staining but what happens if I don’t? Is it just a matter of not working as well and then needing to do it again sooner? I could live with that if I just needed to re-stain the new boards again next summer. Don’t want to do any damage, however. Please advise.
It will not take well, dry blotchy, and will prematurely fail most likley.
Thanks. Just to be clear, I’m using kiln dried cedar decking and plan on sanding it with 80 grit. Still need to wait?
Yes, 1-2 months with KDAT and then cleaner and brighen for prep. Sanding is not needed.
Built a new deck last year. Cedar top board, pressure treated frame. Ready to seal the cedar. 11 months old right now. What should I use? Oil Base or water based? What’s the difference? How many applications should I do? Live in Edmonton Alberta. Deck is on the south side of the house so is in full sunlight all day long. Hot in the summer, long cold winters with lots of snow.
Clean and brighen for prep. Try Restore A Deck Stains (water-based) or TWP 200 Series (oil-based) for the deck. Application and amount of coats vary on what stain brand you choose but most want one coat for new wood.
I finished my project a few weeks ago and am very happy with the results. Here are several pictures, some before, during and post project. The deck was originally completed with Sherwin Williams Super Deck oil based transparent (Natural). The contractor sanded too fine, likely resulting in the poor adhesion. To fix this I sanded back to bare wood, allowed to weather for 60 days, pressure washed, then conditioned with TWP 2 step deck brightener. Then stained with TWP 1101 oil based cedar tone, spraying on first coat, then used pad applicator to place second coat before first coat dried. The deck was allowed to dry for 8 days before stepping on it (not intentional, just happened to be away).
Please add the pics!
I thought I had with the comment but appears they were not accepted. Any limit on size or number of pictures?
3 MB per picture.
Testing pic
Here are some pictures, before, during, and after
Looks great!
I have had a cedar deck for approx 2 years. It turned a nice natural gray but some mold set in (you could see some uneven black areas) and the wood started to chip a little. We had someone clean the deck-they used Mold Armor product. The deck is now back to more yellowish color and is uneven. They are recommending Benjamin Moore Arborcoat semi-transparent stain. I do not see many natural gray options (although westcott navy and amherst gray looked ok-need to see it on the deck first). What do you recommend hearing this? Thanks
Try Armstrong Clark or TWP Semi-solid stains. BM is a poor product and has lots of bad reviews.
Hello,
I have sanded my 1 year old cedar deck back to bare wood. The initial finish was done too soon after install, resulting in mold under the Sherwin Williams super deck transparent stain. There has also been a lot of flaking where exposed to direct sunlight.
I sanded using 120 grit paper. Do I need to fine tune this with finer grit paper and if so what grit?
I am planning to clean with a mold killing product since mold has been present already however the sanding has removed almost all evidence of this. Do I need to use a wood brightner since im back to virgin wood? Any guidance on how soon to stain after sanding back to virgin wood?
Thank you
You sanded way too fine. Let it weather for 1-2 months and then clean and brighten for prep. You want the wood porous.
What is the suggested grit to use? Thanks for the feedback.
60-80 grit.
I’m going to use a cleaner/brightener but looking for recommendations on which product to use. After that I will stain with 2 coats TWP 101 using spray on then pad apply.
After the staining does the deck need to be sealed, or does the TWP 101 do all the sealing required?
Use the Gemini Restore Kit for prep for the TWP. Never top coat over a deck stain with a sealer.
Scott – my stain is now 7 months applied and there are small spots in random areas starting to show up lighter than the remaining deck – as if the stain didnt adhere well or I didnt apply second coat consistently. Regardless of the cause I am thinking of reapplying a new coat to the whole deck. I still have 2 or 3 gallons of the same TWP product. What is your recommendation on doing this? Can I just prep with light power wash and then reapply?
You should clean and brighen while pressure washing when applying a new coat of stain.
I am in Texas having a 12×25 cedar deck installed in November. The deck will be Fully Covered. Installer said only to wait 2-3 weeks to “dry out” before they will fully hand sand the entire deck with palm orbital, then stain using our selection. 1. Is sanding not recommended or should this be done before or after the weathering? 2. Is there a minimum temperature to apply the stain since we stay moderate in Texas but it can get to freezing. Ie if we get a moderate week in Dec or Jan is it ok to do it the? 3. Are we doing a lot of harm by only waiting a few weeks vs months to stain after installation? I guess we are all impatient to just get the job done and not letting the wood turn grey.
Thank You! Great website!!
New wood needs to weather for 3-12 months depending on the stain brand and be prepped. You should wait until Spring to do this. Sanding can reduce the penetration of the stain into the wood.
Can I put linseed oil on my newly built cedar deck for the winter and then possibly stain it next spring? I live in Saskatchewan.
No need and you will have to remove it anyhow when you want to stain it.
We are in central Indiana. We have a 3yo smooth cedar deck, almost 10k sf of decking total. Full sun about 3/4 of the day. We have alot of wood to cover so which would be the best/longest wearing for our situation? Also, due to the amount of work this is, we want something that will be easy to maintain (not needing to be completely stripped each time), even better if anything is able to be “spot maintenance” in traffic areas. Considering Defy (Hardwood for smooth cedar?) but not sure about water-based vs oil-based AC… Also, has anyone had experience using Earthpaint Rainforest Sealer? I searched this site but did not see it being mentioned anywhere.
Try the Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 Series for this. Both will be easily maintained by cleaning and recoating as needed. Never heard of the Earthpaint product.
I have a Western Red Cedar Deck that is about 15 years old. I stained it and it turned grey within a few months. It has been like that ever since. Now I want to run each board through a planer and reinstall it and stain or seal it. I don’t want it to go grey again. What stain should I use?
Any of these brands.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I have 33 boards of rough sawn cedar 1×8 I’m going to put up as facia. What is the best clear cedar stain to use that shows the color of the cedar and lasts longest. Much thanks!
You must have a tinted stain as a clear sealer will gray in months. Try Restore-A-Deck in Natural or Armstrong Clark in Natural colors.
Many thanks guys and gals! Last Q. I’m thinking of putting smooth side out Of the 1×8 rough sawn cedar for the facia. Soo Sand with 60-80 grit, then 100 grit and dust off, wash, then use Armstrong Clark redwood tint transparent Oil .. will this suffice? Thanks again
Do not and finer that 80 grit.
If I am needing to have my deck redone due to a poor job and color error, is it okay to switch from the original cabot Australian timber oil to another brand, and what would you suggest? Something went wrong and deck is almost a bright yellow, along with an blotchy ceiling. We need to tone it down and shift it back to a natural or a light brown tone (and get ceiling even).Thanks so much.
As long as you remove the Cabot fully, you can switch. Try Armstrong Clark.
Thanks- last question- Can anything be done about the rough posts. I don’t think they can be sanded, but anyway to change the color?
You can strip it off on the posts. No matter what, it will stain darker there. Rough sawn is more porous.
I just installed two new 4′ x 8′ cedar sections to my dock. I have 4 other sections (also cedar) that are 4 years old which I never stained or sealed. The decking was dark gray and did not look at all. I power sprayed the old deck this past weekend and it looks a lot better, but nowhere near as good as the how the new deck looks. Should I wait 3 months and use a stripper/brightener on everything, then stain it all together?
Yes, wait but use a cleaner and brightener. Not a stripper.
Hello,
I too built a new cedar deck last spring and was also told to use Ready Seal clear stain on it, and to do so within the first few weeks. After applying this, deck had an oily/slick feel to it and turned gray within the first few months, so I cleaned it and reapplied the Ready Seal. Same thing again, oily feel and turned gray once fall hit.
After reading through this site now I have realized I did it all wrong. I have since scrubbed/cleaned the deck this week in hopes to prepare it to do it the correct way this time. I used Krub Kutter Cleaner to clean the deck. It has dried for a few days now and I see some fuzzies on the wood and the wood is a bright color.
My question is, has the wood been able to weather the appropriate time now even though I applied 2 coats of sealer to it last year? Also, should a stripper, cleaner, and brightener be used or is the preparation I have done with the Krud Kutter cleaner enough to apply new coat of stain/sealer? I live in KY and the deck is exposed to sunlight all day long.
Thank you for all of your information you have provided on this site! I wish I would have found this earlier.
You need to strip and brighten for prep, not clean. The RS needs to come off fully. You then want a penetrating semi-transparent stain.
Ready Seal is not a very good stain. Your issues happen a lot too many people: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ready-seal-wood-and-deck-stain-review-2017/
I’m planning to put cedar siding on my carport in Hawaii; we have limited placed to buy stain supplies. What would you recommend as the best semi transparent stain and wood cleaner that I could get at home depot?
Sorry but there are not decent deck products at HD, Lowes, or any big box stores. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stain-quality-at-lowes-or-home-depot/
didn’t think so, but figured I would check since no one ships to Hawaii either.
I have a 5 yr old cedar pergola that’s never been stained. I am looking for something easy to apply and last several years. Also, in the article you recommended timber oil, are referring to Cabots Australian Timber oil?
Cabot ATO is not a very good stain anymore since the formula changed and is not the same as the TimberOil Brand that we were referring to. For the top brands to use, see here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Try TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark.
Very helpful. Question, just installed a western cedar deck and it’s too late to stain if we’re going to wait 3 months. Meanwhile, it rained and the deck is very slippery when wet, what recommendations do you have for reducing slippage it’s the main entrance and we’re in a northern climate so it’s a deck that will also be shoveled.
Thank you.
You cannot do anything to reduce the new wood from being slippery.
Any recommendations on using some type of hardener for an Atlantic white cedar deck, the wood is soft and dents easily. Maybe shellac or eurathane?
No, do not do that and it will ruin your wood by peeling and attracting mildew.
It’s October and the weather will turn cold soon. Getting ready to install our cedar deck. Do we wait until Spring to stain and seal? We do not want the gray look but rather want the natural cedar look. If we wait it would be April-May before it is warm enough to apply stain.
Thanks for your help
Yes, wait until Spring to prep and stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
We had a pergola built last week out of Alaskan yellow cedar and we were going to stain this weekend but read that we should wait 3+ months. We live in Colorado. Is it ok to let it weather over the winter and wait till spring to stain? And should we use an oil base or water base stain? We’ve read conflicting information on both.
You can use either base as long as it is a high-quality stain. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
Spring is okay to prep and stain.
I just got a new cedar deck installed. Contractors told me to seal before before they added fencing. Sealed with thompsons water seal. I wasnt aware of the mill glaze at the time. After the first rain a few days later it was leaving some brown water marks where water puddles were.Sanded it down to remove all of the sealant and since then I’ve been getting these black marks. I thought mildew at first but I think they may be rust spots since some of the areas that have less of it are in the shade most of the day. I used some steel wool to clean the sealant off of the sandpaper from my orbital sander since it was clogging up from the sealant so quickly. Sanding seems to clear it all but then the black marks appear after rain again (Although I havent tried avoiding using the steel wool to clean off the orbital sander yet). Any suggestions on what to do? I don’t mind sanding again and avoiding the steel wool if need be. I was hoping to stain it as well before winter sets in.
It is rust, a wood brightener will remove it. Never use steel wool on a deck, it always rusts like this. Best to leave this deck alone as you cannot stain it yet anyhow. Clean and brighten in Spring and then stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
It appears to absorb water okay since I sanded into the wood some. Should I still wait and let it weather over the winter as you mentioned above?
Yes.
I am assembling a pergola from rough sawn red cedar in a couple weeks. I am in SE Michigan. My wife would like to keep the new color rather than let it turn grey. What is your recommendation to maintain the like-new color? Should I still use a semi-transparent vs a transparent stain? Should I hold off staining as others have done?
It is not possible to maintain the current color. If you want UV protection then the stain must be tinted and that will enhance or alter the color based on the color you choose. Semi-transparent stains are best. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
Thank you for such a quick response! Should I hold off on staining or is it ok to stain right away? My initial plan was to stain all the lumber before putting it together touching up where needed. Thanks again!
Rough wood can be stained right away.
I had a new large cedar deck replaced May 2019. I have not done one thing with it but need to do something. It has now grayed but I loved the original look when it was brand new. I want to try and restore that natural look while protecting it as much as possible. Live in Iowa, cold winters and hot humid summers. Thank you. P.S. 61 years old and wanting to do the work myself, is this feasible? How long do you need to make sure it’s not going to rain?please be specific on the products you suggest and color to keep it that natural look.
See here for more info on prep products needed and stains suggested: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
The stain must be tinted for UV protection from graying so you will need to add some color to it.
I have a new Alaska yellow cedar deck (with knots). The installer told me to wait three or four weeks before treating or staining it. I plan to use is semi-transparent honey colored tint. The decking is developing small black spots that look like mold. It is widespread across the deck, more dense in places. Should I use a deck cleaner/brightened before staining. Should that remove the black spots or will the stain cover/hide the spots? Thanks in advance for any pointers
Your installer is incorrect. You will need to wait about 3 months and then clean and brighten for prep. It will remove any mildew.
I made a big mistake, I stained my new white cedar deck right after it was installed. It’s very tacky. Is there anything I can do now?
Strip and or sand it off, brighten the wood, then let it properly weather.
what about older cider decks ?
Any of these top brands will work: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I have a 5 year old white cedar deck (in Pennsylvania.) Twice treated with Armorcoat semi-transparent stain (perhaps improperly applied). Chronic problem with stain not penetrating and uneven build-up leading to flaking and peeling. Deck recently sanded down to bare wood (50 grit sanding belts). What is recommended procedure for re- treatment. What product will penetrate best and last longest.
Clean and brighten for final prep. Stain with a penetrating stain such as these: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Hi, I have 5 year old white cedar deck in northern MI, I have stained twice with Armstrong. The original stain was applied by the person that built the deck – big mistake. The deck has been stain free for almost two years. I will clean and brighten this week with restore a deck 1 and 2 and stain in 2 weeks, weather permitting. I am thinking of using Sikkens Proluxe DEK. My log siding was stained with a Sikkens products 4 year ago and stills looks like it was stained yesterday. What is your opinion of the Sikkens product compared with TWP or Armstrong.
The DEK will peel on your deck. Do not use it.
Thanks for the fast response. What about the Sikkens (PPG) SRK? If not, then should I lean toward the TWP 1500?
TWP is much better.
I stained a new cedar after following manufacture s direction 1winter it pealed badly I have waited two winters and i am now sanding to bare wood any further steps that I should the deck is 800 sq ft What stain would you recommend
TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark stains.