Log Cabin Stain
Best Exterior Wood Stains for a Log Cabin and Wood Framed Homes
There is no doubt that a log cabin is a thing of beauty in most any type of landscape. To keep a log cabin looking good and lasting for many years, maintenance is key. Log cabins can be very high maintenance and homeowners know all to well the tedious task of keeping it in good condition.Like any other wood structure, a log cabin needs to have a protective finish. This keeps water and UV damage from rotting the logs and causing damage to the structure. Determining the best wood stain for a log cabin takes many factors into account. Texture of the wood, age, log moisture content, and climate are just a few. So while there may be many wood stains best for a log cabin there are a few that stand out.
Considering that most log cabins are constructed with rough textured porous wood that eliminates using any type of stain made for dense smooth woods. A wood stain that is uniquely designed for rough sawn and porous wood is ideal.
Wood stains such as TWP 1500 Series and Defy Epoxy are two good examples of log cabin stains. These penetrating stains help prevent the damage caused by water, fungi, and UV radiation. They will allow the natural beauty of the wood to show through while providing maximum protection.
For extra dry logs a stain like Armstrong Oil Based Stain can be a great choice. In addition to enhanced beauty and weather protection, Armstrong utilizes nondrying conditioning oils to replace the wood’s natural oils that have since evaporated. The nondrying oils separate from the drying side of the formula that remain at the surface to lock in the conditioning oils providing a dry to the touch barrier.
Try to stay away from wood stains designed for smooth hardwoods and also film forming or acrylic based stains. These types of stains are not best used on the rough sawn cut texture of log cabins and can cause a whole host of problems.
If you Have Questions on Staining Your Home, Please Ask Below
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55 Comments on "Best Wood Stains for a Log Cabin"
We built a home in 2002 and used Woodguard to stain it. It’s in serious need of staining so I’m trying to see if that’s the best brand to use. We live in Michigan. Our home sits in front of the woods so we have woods on the south and east side. It has had some mildew form on the south and west side, just on the top curve of the log. I’m wondering if it’s from the woods sheltering some of the sun? Also, I believe Woodguard used to come with insect repellent but it seems now it has to be purchased separate. Thank you M.J.
Use TWP 100 Series for the stain. Prep to remove the mold and old coating with Restore A Deck Stain Stripper Kits.
Have a 2 story, 4500 sq.ft. log home, plus 2 sheds, gazebo, and 1600 sq.ft of additional decks/steps. 2 contractors I like, one recommending Sikkens and the other Perma Chink. House built in 1999, will be 3rd staining. What would you recommended? Thanks,
Try the TWP or the Armstrong Clark. Prep well first.
These contractors use the two stains mentioned and will prep well first. Between these two products which would you recommend? Thanks,
Sikkens.
I have a log cabin in NC – square log and chinking, right on the Blue Ridge Pkwy that is in serious need of staining! In your opinion, is there a difference between Cabot Australian Timber Oil and Sikkens log and siding? Other ideas? Thanks…
Sikkens is better of the two. also look at TWP stains.
In reference to Isy below, is there a way to fill the carpenter bee and woodpecker holes that will blend in? I noticed you said wood filler will not do the job. Will anything?
Nothing will “tint” when stained with a semi-transparent stain to blend. You could try a pre-tinted caulk that is similar in color to your wood stain.
We recently bought a log home that was stained with Outlast Q8, medium reddish brown, which is way too brown-red for us as we like yellow/ gold /natural. I think Q8 has a VOC of 250. CTA sells a product “clean start” which, they say will remove the surface stain. The home is 8 years old and we do not think the stain has been maintained as it is quite dirty and worn.
We live in Southwest Virginia and the house is surrounded on three sides by a covered deck. The east and south logs are very sheltered with only mild sun and no rain; the west side gets afternoon sun and very little rain; the garage attached to the house on the north has walls which face east and north get blasted by all kinds of weather.When we gently pressure wash the logs are quite beautiful.
We would love your advice.
Thank you for this site
You will need to remove the old stain first. Stripping may rmeove it. If not, you could sand or corn bob blast for removal. Try the TWP 1500 Series for the new wood stain.
Thanks for your response.
Our part of Virginia follows Fed guidelines so we can use a much higher VOC stain;
Would the 100 series be better? Folks seem to think the higher VOC is a better stain.
Either TWP series would work. The TWP 1500 will offer slightly better UV protection.
We have a 20 year old ping log home in the UP of Michigan. Previous owners did not seal, they used “used motor oil”…So it is a bit dark. Do we stain AND seal it? We Think we have a plan, but somewhat still confused.
1. Wash exterior with a deck stain ok?
2. Stain with which product
3. Seal?
Thanks for your help
1. Deck Stain stripper and pressure washing. Brighten after.
2. Stain with TWP or Armstrong Clark
3. No need. Stains are sealers.
Hi… thanks for this forum. We have a cabin on a River – half the cabin gets wet & moldy, the other half seems to get too much sun. We use an oil based stain every year on one side of the cabin after washing with vinegar or bleach one year. I read your article on type of stain.
1. How often should we power wash?
2. What is the best way to clean mold, fungus?
3. What is the best chemical to use in the stain to combat carpenter bees.
4. What is the best way to combat carpenter bees in general? We do use the traps that work quite well, but the bees are tenacious this year AGAIN and we have them everywhere.
Thanks for your help
1. Only when you are reapplying the stain.
2. Restore A Deck Cleaner
3. We use the Bug Juice for deck stains.
4. Try an insect service like Eradico that sprays every month.
I have a large pier and dock, and have replaced all the wood with new pressure treated pine and have let it weather for 12-15 months. The wood is VERY dry now and is even splitting from being in the sun and weather since there is no shade at all. I think i let it dry our too much. The wood is not dirty, just slightly turning grey, and am going to use Defy Extreme CLEAR sealer to help protect it and let it grey naturally so i don’t have to worry about color fading or being uneven in areas. Question is, since the wood has had more than enough time to weather & dry out, and I am guessing the mill glaze is not present anymore due to the rain and drying effect over and over opening up the pores …do I still need to use the Deck Cleaner prior to stain in this case, and if so, why? I was still planing on using the Brighter to even the slight greying out a bit, but since I am using Clear stain and the deck will eventually grey , do I even need that? Thanks in advance
Yes, you still have to prep with the Deck Cleaner and a Wood Brightener. Removes the oxidation and the mill glaze so the Defy can soak in. Brightener alone will not do anything.
what is the best stain for maintenance?
TWP or Armstrong Clark would work well.
It cannot be applied over Sikkens cetol. No stain can. You would need to remove the cetol.
I would like to install hand-hewed, white pine, 1" x 12" siding on my new stick-built cabin in East Tennessee. After spending hours researching stains, I am more confused than when I started. What is the best, two application, semi-trasparent product on the market today that has the longest "life-span" ? Thanks,
Steve S.
TWP or Armstrong Clark.
Hi there,
Thank you for this website. So i have torrefied poplar on the front of my house that started to worn out. Since the wood is torrefied, will the stain like armstrong semi-solid will be effective?
For this project.
1 sand to remove the old stain
2. Wash and brighten with restore a deck kit. Then pressure wash and let dry 24-48 hours
3. Apply Armstrong semi solid
I live in Montreal Canada and its full sun
Im worried because the wood is torrefied
Thank you
I am unsure on this. I would contact Armstrong directly and ask.
In addition to enhanced beauty and weather protection, Armstrong utilizes nondrying conditioning oils to replace the wood’s natural oils that have since evaporated. The nondrying oils separate from the drying side of the formula that remain at the surface to lock in the conditioning oils providing a dry to the touch barrier.
I have Ash log siding and unfortunately I pressure washed one side and now I can't find the stain I used before. I have repeatedly tried to contact the company hoping they would have it on record, to no avail.
Can I stain over the existing stain with a color close to what I have? I'm doing this myself as I cannot afford to hire a professional.
I could really use some advice. I am at my wits end as what to do.
Best to remove the old coating completely first when switching brands.
I have a pine log home that I sanded down 10 years ago and stained with Wolmans redwood stain. It seems to need a new application every year. We live in upstate NY high up on top of a hill with no trees to stop the sun or winters wind. What do you suggest?
If you want to switch brands, you will need to remove the Wolmans first. Once removed, the TWP 1500 would work well.
I have a log sided cabin. that was last treated wit CWF UV 20 years ago. It has turned grey and dark over the years, it still looks good. but the carpenter bees are drilling into it causing the wood peckers to go and chop up my siding to get to them. I have filled the damaged areas, and I need to re stain it to seal it. I am told by all that have log sided buildings that the stain will keep bees and other insects out. I want to stain it dark so that the various shades will sort of blend as well as the filled areas. I want to use the best possible epoxy stain available. I need a really good suggestion on this. Thanks Isy Scarola
Wood or log stains will not keep the bees out. There are additives that you can add that may help with this. Big Juice is one we have used. If you used wood filler on the holes, it will not blend when using the wood stain. Meaning the wood filler does not \”stain\” to match the wood stain. It will continue to look white in color after applying the wood stain. Not sure what you mean about epoxy as wood stains and log stains are not epoxy based. A dark colored stain will help to blend the imperfections of the wood but not the wood filler. Make sure to prep well. Clean and brighten the wood while pressure washing. We would suggest the Armstrong Clark in Oxford Brown or the TWP 1503 Dark Oak.
For extra dry logs a stain like Armstrong Oil Based Stain can be a great choice. In addition to enhanced beauty and weather protection, Armstrong utilizes nondrying conditioning oils to replace the wood’s natural oils that have since evaporated.
Love this website. We are building a cabin in Idaho using pine log siding. Just wondering exactly how to prep the wood. It was installed last October. I am planning on using your top rated prep and brightner. Would I just spray that on or do I have to scrub it with a brush like you would a deck?
Best to apply the prep materials and pressure wash off.
Hi I am about to install pine log siding on my house it is rough cut what would you recommend to prepare siding and what stain to use
If all rough cut then you have need to prep. Just make sure the moisture content is below 12%. Try the TWP 1500 Series.
I stained my cedar shingles with the Cabot 3000 natural stain in 2000 but am now in a low VOC state. Is there a recommended product to restain these shingles?
Try the TWP 1500 Series but make sure to prep well first.
I own a log home that was previously stained with a solid stain and I want to stain it again. Two questions:
1. I assume that additional staining must be with a solid stain?
2. What are the best stains for an additional coat(s)?
1. Yes you would need a solid again
2. Look at Flood Solid stains.
I've been doing my homework on the internet preparing to strip and stain my cabin. I ordered up a sample of the TWP 1500 series dark oak and absolutely love the color. I've been talking to a few paint/stain professionals and I'm concerned about the color years down the road. After a couple of initial coats, does the "maintenance" coat every 4-5 years down the road darken the color with each application. I don't want my cabin to eventually look black. Thanx for your time!
I noticed that you said "strip and stain". If you are doing the exterior sanding is the best method. You get down to the original wood and when restaining it looks like brand new. You will love it . A bit labor intensive but well worth it. AND….much cheaper than paying for stripper.
TWP does not turn black through the years. It fades through the years so when adding more product it basically revives the color.
we are looking for stain for new log siding ( Wisconsin area). Found the TWP 100 brand locally in MN, would that be okay to use or is the 1500 series better?. It is Rough cut not smooth log.
I would go with the 100 Series for new log siding.
Love this website. We are building a cabin in Idaho using pine log siding. Just wondering exactly how to prep the wood. It was installed last October. I am planning on using your top rated prep and brightner. Would I just spray that on or do I have to scrub it with a brush like you would a deck?
Prep with the RAD Kits and pressure washing. Spray on and pressure wash off lightly.
We finished the job last summer, between rain storms, of putting the first coat of TWP 1500 on our log siding. Just wondering if we should put a 2nd coat on this summer?
Only if needed or starting to fade. Otherwise just wait until it does need it.
I do not have a log home but I am about to install a considerable amount of number 1 red cedar board and batten. I live in Tennessee so humidity is definitely a problem. I was looking at the Olympic oil Elite stain at Lowes but found your website and did not see a review of this stain. The wood looks beautiful and I want to preserve the natural look for as long as possible. What do you recommend?
How did the Olympic work out? I just built a cabin and was looking at using it also
TN Cedar, look at the Armstrong Clark or the TWP stains for this cedar home in TN.