Update for 2018: Best Wood Stains for a Log Cabin
We at Deckstainhelp.com offer tips for more than staining decks. In this article, we offer our insight on which stains are the best for log cabins. We always appreciate your input, so feel free to leave a comment below with pictures of your log cabin stain projects.
Log Cabin Stain
Best Exterior Wood Stains for a Log Cabin and Wood Framed Homes
There is no doubt that a log cabin is a thing of beauty in most any type of landscape. To keep a log cabin looking good and lasting for many years, maintenance is key. Log cabins can be very high maintenance and homeowners know all to well the tedious task of keeping it in good condition.Like any other wood structure, a log cabin needs to have a protective finish. This keeps water and UV damage from rotting the logs and causing damage to the structure. Determining the best wood stain for a log cabin takes many factors into account. The texture of the wood, age, log moisture content, and climate are just a few. So while there may be many wood stains best for a log cabin there are a few that stand out.
Considering that most log cabins are constructed with rough textured porous wood that eliminates using any type of stain made for dense smooth woods. A wood stain that is uniquely designed for rough sawn and porous wood is ideal.
Wood stains such as TWP 1500 Series and Defy Epoxy are two good examples of log cabin stains. These penetrating stains help prevent the damage caused by water, fungi, and UV radiation. They will allow the natural beauty of the wood to show through while providing maximum protection.
For extra dry logs, a stain like Armstrong Oil Based Stain can be a great choice. In addition to enhanced beauty and weather protection, Armstrong utilizes nondrying conditioning oils to replace the wood’s natural oils that have since evaporated. The nondrying oils separate from the drying side of the formula that remains at the surface to lock in the conditioning oils providing a dry to the touch barrier.
Try to stay away from wood stains designed for smooth hardwoods and also film forming or acrylic based stains. These types of stains are not best used on the rough sawn cut texture of log cabins and can cause a whole host of problems.
If you Have Questions on Staining Your Home, Please Ask Below
We have a 30 year old log home currently stained with Cabot solid stain acrylic. Would it be advisable to remove by corn blasting and starting over with product specifically made for logs? (ours are pine)
You could do that if you desire a more natural appearance.
We have a log cabin that is 30 years old. The south side of the cabin really get beat up by the sun. I looked at it and many of the logs have the normal cracks from the sun and heat but the wood is really dry and needs a finish. I am looking for a clear type of finish that preserves and protects from the UV rays of the sun. Currently it has had oil based stains on it in the past, (Clear wood Finish UV and Cabot australian timber oil and others over the years).
After proper prep to clean and remove any remnants of the old coatings, use one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Would Olympic stains be ok for a log cabin. Is there any way to figure out what kind of stain that’s already on it because it seems to be a very good product and I like the color.
No way to determine what you currently have. Olympic is no the best option. There are better ones.
We are in the process of picking a stain for our log cabin. It is old and the old stain is not coming ff completely. Can I use a sold stain such as Solid Matte – Rubbol® Solid Wood Finish?
You can cover the wood/old stain if you like with a solid stain but that is not the best stain option type. Solid stains can peel and are harder to maintain.
Hello, I am in the process of stripping the old stain and putting on new, my question is I bought 5 gallons of TWP 200, but everywhere I look I see that people are using TWP 100, can you tell me your opinion on this? My house is red oak, and the stain is old and failing bad, thank you Scott.
The TWP 200 Series will work very well for you as long as you remove all of the old stain. No reason to switch series.
Finally about to stain my log cabin with TWP 100. First step your stripper, wait 45 minutes then wash off. Apply brightner. How long before the stain is applied?
The stripper will dry within 45 minutes. More like 10-15 minutes than pressure wash off. After all the prep is done, wait 48 hours before staining.
Do I wash off the stripper then apply the brightner. Do I have to wash off the brightner then allow the 48 hours of drying.
Rinse well and then apply the brightener right away. Rinse that and let dry.
What if the TWP stain is applied and it rains in 12 hours (or 24)
Should be fine.
Can the Flood semitransparent stains be used on logs, and if so, which type? Will be used in Montana.
Yes you can use any of the Flood wood stains.
Hello!
Can you recommend a stain product for rough cut pine siding? The cabin is one year old.
Thank you for the help.
TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark.
I have log railings for our deck that I need to re-stain. They are presently a golden oak looking stain and we want to keep that same look. Any recommendations? My wife wants to see a stain chart to do a comparison before we buy. Thanks!
If switching brands, you will need to remove the current stain. Once removed, try the TWP 1500 Series or the Restore A Deck Wood Stains.
Here is a picture.
Hi, I am going to restain a cabin I just bought and I am not sure the last time that it was stained. I have presure washed the entire home and would like to go a shade or two darker a nd wanted to get some ideas on good stain and or if I will need a sealer as well. It is in Nothern MN.
Thanks,
When switching brands of wood stain you will need to remove the current coating. This will ensure the new stain will be able to soak into the wood correctly and adhere to the wood. Strip and sand to do this. Brighten all wood after. Try the Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown or TWP 103 Dark Oak for your stain.
We have purchased a 25 yr old log cabin sitting at 9000 ft in CO. the logs have the pine bark on the exterior so scrubbing is going to be almost impossible without messing up the bark covering. We do not know what brand of the semi-transparent stain that has been put on the cabin, so what do you suggest on preparation and then type of stain? Also, back brushing is going to be impossible! Thanks
Pictures, please.
Here are some close ups
Not much you can do for prep but maybe a light clean or rinse with deck cleaner and rinse with a pressure washer. Do you want it to stay a medium to darker brown? If so, look at TWP Dark Oak or Armstrong Clark in Rustic brown.
We have always used TWP on our twenty yr old log home.My husband always did it but now he is unable. What do we prep it with to remove the mold/mildew? Is there an additive to prevent the mold?
Use their Gemini Restore Kit for the prep to reapply. The TWP already contains an EPA registered mildewcide.
I have used Woodguard for the past 25 years. What do think of this product? If I would switch products would I have to remove the Woodguard?
Yes, you would have to remove it. We have never used it so no experience.
my log home in NE has had Rawhide Behr product on it since 2000. It has done an excellent job of protecting the logs however the black mold under the rawhide has turned the entire house black.
Behr tells me I either need to sand blast or use chemical stripper to remove the rawhide and then remove the mode and start over with a stain.
How about a product that would adhere to the rawhide – a stain with a walnut or darker color? Do you know of any? I will not blast or strip these logs – not possible and not affordable.
Help!
Sorry but nothing will adhere. You will need to remove and start over.
Ok here are pics after just power washing, trying a citrus stripper, and trying a deck wash and scrubbing. Logs getting fuzzy from the power wash. Help. Tell me 1-2-3 the easiest way to remove this Behr Rawhide. I am okay in the end with a dark translucent stain. I am not okay with a solid stain or paint. No!
Help! So glad you are oout there. Sally
To remove this you will need to sand or corn cob blasting.
I have a log home finished with Behr rawhide. I had it hand sanded and it looked beautiful. It was then oiled with Fargo Oil which brought out the beautiful colours of the different logs. However, the sun has now bleached out all of the colour and I am now looking to find something with UV protection. Thought I would answer your question and ask my question at the same time!!
Try TWP 1500 Series.
Thank you. I shall try to find it here in Western Canada, Alberta.
I am preparing to restain our logs and plan to power wash the logs with a stripping product. Is there one you recommend. I hope to lighten the logs and restaiN with semi-transparent oil based stain.
Do you know what brand and type of stain you are removing? Please post a picture.
I do not know what kind of stain it is. It is the original stain used, I’m embarrassed to say, almost 30 years ago.
Here are some picture. Hoping to lighten the tone.
Thanks.
You will need to strip and brighten this for the prep. Try the Restore-A-Deck Stripper Kits. Once removed, use the TWP 1500 Series.
do exterior log stain have insect repellent?
No but you can add insect repellent additives to the stains.
Is Sikkens a good stain for a log home?
Average at best.
We have deck rails that are in need of staining. We initially used Sikkens, then used Structures. We are north facing and endure northern MN winters. The rails needed attention after 2 years. We only used the base coat without the recoater. I would consider Defy due to the good reviews but hesitate due to prepping the surface and removing the Structures product. Any thought on Structures?
Never heard of structures. Can you post a picture?
http://structureswoodcare.com/products.html
We used the basecoat.
2.5 years into the Log Cabin in the Myrtle Beach, SC area, one wall has faded. Cabin was built in 2000 Didn’t know about cleaning every year – hiring a company to clean – and then re stain the faded wall – figure to re do the whole house in two years. Found a can of Olympic Elite Stain/Sealant in one in the garage- and read your reviews of stains. Read some of the questions below and you talk about not switching stains without removing the old stain – which is something I don’t want to do – couldn’t believe the cost of the stripping off the old stain. Finally my question – what happens if you change stains without stripping off the old stain?
It will most likely fail prematurely. Best to strip and honestly is not much harder than cleaning: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-deck-stain-stripping-can-be-easier-than-deck-cleaning/
what about using Sherwin Williams SuperDeck on log home…should cabots be removed first?
Hi Kelly,
Always remove previous coatings when switching brands. As for the Super Deck, we are not fans. It has a tendency to turn dark or black in color after a few years.
We bought a Lincoln Log home in Florida. It was placed in 1986, and we were here renting when they had the logs recaulked and stain/sealed with Sashco Capture three years ago. The Florida sun is merciless, and I noticed the tops of the logs at the corners are taking a beating from the rain/moisture. I pressure washed and scrubbed, then put on a good coat of the Capture stain. The remainder of the sealer says 18 mth shelf life, and I was wondering if there is a better product I can use over the fresh stain. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hello, you cannot apply a different product or brand on top or over this. If you want to switch brands to something better, you will need to 100% remove the Sachco first.
Thank you!
Hello,
I have a 35 year old log cabin (pine D-logs). After I strip/sand off the current layer of paint and stain, I intend on re-staining with the most sun-durable stain I can get. I’m located in Flagstaff, AZ and much of the S/SW sides of the house get the full force of the sun for most of the day year round, with plenty of UV penetration through our high altitude air. Mold/mildew concerns are pretty much nil for me, by the way.
I’d also like to apply caulking or chinking between the logs. I suspect I’m getting more air penetration than I’d like (inside walls are drywalled so it’s hard to tell) but one portion of the house seems to lose heat faster than I’d like. Is this harder or more expensive to accomplish when using an oil based stain?
I see that your review of DEFY Extreme says that it holds up pretty well to UV, but seems like it’s typically used more for decks? (not sure what makes a stain better for decks vs. logs). Thanks for any info!
Any of these brands would work well for log homes: Defy Extreme, TWP 1500 Series, or Armstrong Clark. Darker or more pigment colors will tend to offer longer UV protection.
Hi…
I stained my log cabin 3 years ago with Sikkens..love the product but black came thru just this winter…I know I need to clean and power wash the house before another Sikkens application..what would work best to get rid of the black?
Could you post some pictures, please?
I’m building a log cabin and want to know what is the best stain/seal to use that will last and protect the wood. It is located in Eastern Oklahoma in the Ozark mountains.
Mike, See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
It will also apply to cabins. Wait until Spring, prep well and try the TWP or Armstrong Clark stains.
Owned a log cabin for 10 years, do not believe logs were ever sealed, but on one side of the cabin, the wood is almost black from the weather. I dont want to bring back to natural color. But want to use a solid paint stain. Do I still need to prep the logs if they are dark, in color?
Yes you need to prep. Use a deck cleaner and then pressure wash.
My log home in N Carolina has a stain on it but needs to be redone. It ha sikkins on now. What’s the best new application? Does it have to be same color? Would acrylic be advisable?
Pete, nothing can go over the Sikkens so it will need to be removed if you want to switch brands. Once removed, try the TWP 1500 series.
We have a Satterwhite log home in East Texas that’s about 30+ years old. It has the dark red stain and I’m assuming they used a Satterwhite stain. To my knowledge, it has not had any preservatives applied since new. It has a 8 ft porch all the way around. I am starting to pressure wash the logs to re-apply a clear stain as we don’t want to make it any darker. I am using a hot water pressure washer with commercial soap and bleach to clean. Call you advise a good stain that can be applied after the washing has dried? The Satterwhite stain is over $100.00 per gallon. If that is the only choice then ok. Just was looking for the best to use. Thanks
You cannot apply a clear stain/sealer over top of a tinted stain. Does not work. Best to remove all and start over or stick with what is on there already.
What type of stain should be used to re stain my log cabin? I think it has a semi transparent now. Would like to change to a redwood.
Keep with a semi-transparent color. Prep with Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener Kits. Try the Armstrong Clark in Sierra Redwood or TWP 1502 Redwood colors.
What’s best stain for 1/2 log pine siding in northern Wisconsin? Other than staining, does anything else need to be done?
Always prep first. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Defy Extreme Stains.
Define prep first?
Depends on the condition/age of the wood. Previous coating, new wood, etc?
Brand new…no stain on it yet. Wanted to know best type of stain to apply?
Also, after staining does it require a top coat of something? Or is just one or two coats of stain adequate?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
You cannot top coat with a sealer over the stain.
Our log home is 2 1/2 years old now, and the vertical Timbers have some UV fading. How can I find which stain of yours would best match for what is there?
You cannot apply a new stain of a different brand on top of an older stain without removing the old caoting first. Strip and pressure wash to remove. Brighten the wood after. Once removed, you can use any brand of stain. See here for the Top 5: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I’m putting log siding on a newly built stick home the siding was milled from 2×8 kiln dried white pine. The home only gets sun in the afternoon due to tree coverage and it is in Western New York. Can. You recommend a semi transparent stain and carpenter bee additive? Thank you
TWP 1500 Series and Bug Juice additive.
Can I use a solid color stain on a log ccabin?
If you want, yes.
I have been asked to stain a log home ,it has been under construction for the past yr,the home has had not been treated for 30 yr or more,the customer wonts a solid stain,and it has a primer on it I’m assuming grayish, for yes ago,what do u think should be done to this home,,thank u
It already has a primer on it? Not all stain can be applied over a primer. I would check with compatibility first to confirm what will work.
We have a red pine log home built in 2002 originally finished with Menwood 2 coats and additional coat applied in 2005 . This was alight walnut, Extremely satisfied. When needed refinish in 2013 Menwood no longer available . Used Transformation stain. Not pleased with appearance or durability. What is your recommendations for prep and stain. Do not like the surface sheen of many stains. Menwood left no obvious surface film but she’d water as if it was waxed .
All old coatings should be removed by stripping and or sanding. Menwood from what we remember was a TWP blend. The best option for you would be the TWP 100 Series or 1500 Series. This would be almost the same thing as the Menwood.
6 years ago I blasted to strip the paint off my log home.
I stained with a product called lovitts natural gold. I am pretty positive this is a linseed oil based stain.
The stain has performed well on the cabin but it molded quickly on my deck.
I am planning on using twp1500 on my deck(after stripping) and was wondering if this stain would be compatible with my old linseed based log stain on the house? Can I just clean and apply the twp1500 over my old log stain?
No, you should strip the log stain before using the TWP.
We built a home in 2002 and used Woodguard to stain it. It’s in serious need of staining so I’m trying to see if that’s the best brand to use. We live in Michigan. Our home sits in front of the woods so we have woods on the south and east side. It has had some mildew form on the south and west side, just on the top curve of the log. I’m wondering if it’s from the woods sheltering some of the sun? Also, I believe Woodguard used to come with insect repellent but it seems now it has to be purchased separate. Thank you M.J.
Use TWP 100 Series for the stain. Prep to remove the mold and old coating with Restore A Deck Stain Stripper Kits.
Have a 2 story, 4500 sq.ft. log home, plus 2 sheds, gazebo, and 1600 sq.ft of additional decks/steps. 2 contractors I like, one recommending Sikkens and the other Perma Chink. House built in 1999, will be 3rd staining. What would you recommended? Thanks,
Try the TWP or the Armstrong Clark. Prep well first.
These contractors use the two stains mentioned and will prep well first. Between these two products which would you recommend? Thanks,
Sikkens.
I have a log cabin in NC – square log and chinking, right on the Blue Ridge Pkwy that is in serious need of staining! In your opinion, is there a difference between Cabot Australian Timber Oil and Sikkens log and siding? Other ideas? Thanks…
Sikkens is better of the two. also look at TWP stains.
In reference to Isy below, is there a way to fill the carpenter bee and woodpecker holes that will blend in? I noticed you said wood filler will not do the job. Will anything?
Nothing will “tint” when stained with a semi-transparent stain to blend. You could try a pre-tinted caulk that is similar in color to your wood stain.
We recently bought a log home that was stained with Outlast Q8, medium reddish brown, which is way too brown-red for us as we like yellow/ gold /natural. I think Q8 has a VOC of 250. CTA sells a product “clean start” which, they say will remove the surface stain. The home is 8 years old and we do not think the stain has been maintained as it is quite dirty and worn.
We live in Southwest Virginia and the house is surrounded on three sides by a covered deck. The east and south logs are very sheltered with only mild sun and no rain; the west side gets afternoon sun and very little rain; the garage attached to the house on the north has walls which face east and north get blasted by all kinds of weather.When we gently pressure wash the logs are quite beautiful.
We would love your advice.
Thank you for this site
You will need to remove the old stain first. Stripping may rmeove it. If not, you could sand or corn bob blast for removal. Try the TWP 1500 Series for the new wood stain.
Thanks for your response.
Our part of Virginia follows Fed guidelines so we can use a much higher VOC stain;
Would the 100 series be better? Folks seem to think the higher VOC is a better stain.
Either TWP series would work. The TWP 1500 will offer slightly better UV protection.
We have a 20 year old ping log home in the UP of Michigan. Previous owners did not seal, they used “used motor oil”…So it is a bit dark. Do we stain AND seal it? We Think we have a plan, but somewhat still confused.
1. Wash exterior with a deck stain ok?
2. Stain with which product
3. Seal?
Thanks for your help
1. Deck Stain stripper and pressure washing. Brighten after.
2. Stain with TWP or Armstrong Clark
3. No need. Stains are sealers.
Hi… thanks for this forum. We have a cabin on a River – half the cabin gets wet & moldy, the other half seems to get too much sun. We use an oil based stain every year on one side of the cabin after washing with vinegar or bleach one year. I read your article on type of stain.
1. How often should we power wash?
2. What is the best way to clean mold, fungus?
3. What is the best chemical to use in the stain to combat carpenter bees.
4. What is the best way to combat carpenter bees in general? We do use the traps that work quite well, but the bees are tenacious this year AGAIN and we have them everywhere.
Thanks for your help
1. Only when you are reapplying the stain.
2. Restore A Deck Cleaner
3. We use the Bug Juice for deck stains.
4. Try an insect service like Eradico that sprays every month.
I have a large pier and dock, and have replaced all the wood with new pressure treated pine and have let it weather for 12-15 months. The wood is VERY dry now and is even splitting from being in the sun and weather since there is no shade at all. I think i let it dry our too much. The wood is not dirty, just slightly turning grey, and am going to use Defy Extreme CLEAR sealer to help protect it and let it grey naturally so i don’t have to worry about color fading or being uneven in areas. Question is, since the wood has had more than enough time to weather & dry out, and I am guessing the mill glaze is not present anymore due to the rain and drying effect over and over opening up the pores …do I still need to use the Deck Cleaner prior to stain in this case, and if so, why? I was still planing on using the Brighter to even the slight greying out a bit, but since I am using Clear stain and the deck will eventually grey , do I even need that? Thanks in advance
Yes, you still have to prep with the Deck Cleaner and a Wood Brightener. Removes the oxidation and the mill glaze so the Defy can soak in. Brightener alone will not do anything.
what is the best stain for maintenance?
TWP or Armstrong Clark would work well.
It cannot be applied over Sikkens cetol. No stain can. You would need to remove the cetol.
I would like to install hand-hewed, white pine, 1" x 12" siding on my new stick-built cabin in East Tennessee. After spending hours researching stains, I am more confused than when I started. What is the best, two application, semi-trasparent product on the market today that has the longest "life-span" ? Thanks,
Steve S.
TWP or Armstrong Clark.
Hi there,
Thank you for this website. So i have torrefied poplar on the front of my house that started to worn out. Since the wood is torrefied, will the stain like armstrong semi-solid will be effective?
For this project.
1 sand to remove the old stain
2. Wash and brighten with restore a deck kit. Then pressure wash and let dry 24-48 hours
3. Apply Armstrong semi solid
I live in Montreal Canada and its full sun
Im worried because the wood is torrefied
Thank you
I am unsure on this. I would contact Armstrong directly and ask.
In addition to enhanced beauty and weather protection, Armstrong utilizes nondrying conditioning oils to replace the wood’s natural oils that have since evaporated. The nondrying oils separate from the drying side of the formula that remain at the surface to lock in the conditioning oils providing a dry to the touch barrier.
I have Ash log siding and unfortunately I pressure washed one side and now I can't find the stain I used before. I have repeatedly tried to contact the company hoping they would have it on record, to no avail.
Can I stain over the existing stain with a color close to what I have? I'm doing this myself as I cannot afford to hire a professional.
I could really use some advice. I am at my wits end as what to do.
Best to remove the old coating completely first when switching brands.
I have a pine log home that I sanded down 10 years ago and stained with Wolmans redwood stain. It seems to need a new application every year. We live in upstate NY high up on top of a hill with no trees to stop the sun or winters wind. What do you suggest?
If you want to switch brands, you will need to remove the Wolmans first. Once removed, the TWP 1500 would work well.