Update on Deck Stain for 2019
Please read this article and post any questions you have in the comment are below. Our newly enhanced website now offers the ability to upload and post pictures of your exterior wood or deck.
Deck stains have not changed much in the past few years. Many brands have gone away from oil-based stains to water based, but you are still able to use oil-based stains in all US States and Canada. We currently restore about 300-400 decks annually, and our favorites are the penetrating semi-transparent and semi-solids.
We have been getting great feedback here at www.deckstainhelp.com from all of the consumers who have been looking for better stain alternatives for their deck restoration. Our most popular article, “What is the Best Deck Stain” has quickly become the number one article on the web for asking questions and getting answers on restoring your exterior wood and deck.
In this article, we are going to cover what actually is a “Deck Stain”. We will compare the many different types of decking stain options available and what are the positives and negatives of each.
Deck Stains
Deck stains are used to protect and preserve your exterior wood. They offer UV protection, water repellency, mold and mildew resistance, etc. Deck coatings come in many different types of opacity and bases. Many deck stain brands can be restricted in certain states, cities, and counties based on their VOC laws.
Deck staining can be a “chore” for residential homeowners and unfortunately walking into your local store may produce some of the worst options available. Not all deck stains are created equal and there is not a perfect stain type or brand that will outperform all the others.
Water-Based Deck Stains
Water based deck stains have come on rapidly in the last 4 years. The main reason for the vast amount of water-based stains on the market today is related to changes in VOC laws across the country. Many states have adopted or soon will adopt lower VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) regulations. This has prompted stain manufacturers to increase production of water-soluble decking stains. In our opinion, water-based deck stains are “thin” paints with varying amount of acrylic and pigment.
Pros: Water cleanup, less chance of mold or mildew growth. Environmentally friendly.
Cons: Do not penetrate as an oil-base can. Slightly harder to apply as they dry quicker. Can be prone to peeling and wearing. *Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains and Defy Wood Stains are the only exceptions that we have tested. They penetrate the best of all water-based stains, nearly as well as an oil.
Oil-based Deck Stains
Oil-based decking stains have been around for 20-30 years and have been traditionally what all stain manufacturers produce. Oil-based stains are typically made up of natural and synthetic oils. Many contain oils: Linseed Oil, Paraffin Oil, Tung Oil, Rosewood Oil, Etc.
Pros: Excellent penetration into wood. The better a deck stain can penetrate, the better the performance. Easier to apply. More natural looking.
Cons: Stronger odors, longer drying and curing time. Some oils can promote the growth of mildew. Some oil-based stains will darken in color over time.
Deck Resurface Coatings
Deck Resurface products are basically similar to extremely thick paint. They are designed to mask the wood and fill large cracks or voids. Deck Resurface products will not show any wood grain. Please note that this product is far beyond conventional wood restoration.
Pros: Excellent UV protection. Enhanced traction. Fills voids and cracks. Great idea to restore an older deck if it actually works.
Cons: So far most of these product types fail miserably. They peel after the first Winter and cannot be removed with a deck stain stripper. Sanding, scraping or even the replacement of the wood is needed. There are numerous reviews on our site and other sites with angry consumers and product failures. Class action lawsuits are being filed against Rustoleum Deck Restore and Olympic Rescue-It. Behr Deckover has the same issues as well. Only a couple of these products seem to work. If you really want one of these coatings, consider the Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive. See this link for more info, articles, and reviews on these coatings: Deck Resurface Coatings
Solid Decking Stains (Opaque)
Solid deck stains look like paints. They cover the wood so you will not see the wood grain anymore. Once you apply a solid decking stain there is little chance you will ever be able to go back to a transparent stain. Solid stains come in both oil and water based versions.
Pros: Excellent UV protection.
Cons: Films on top of the wood and do not penetrate well. Prone to peeling. Looks like a paint. Harder to apply. Cannot be removed with a deck stain stripper effectively.
Semi-Solid Stains
A Semi-Solid Deck Stain will only show a small amount of wood grain as they contain a high amount of pigment. They are offered by a limited amount of manufacturers. Semi-solids can be both water-based and oil-based.
Pros: Very good UV protection
Cons: Only a small amount of wood grain will show. Oil-based semi-solid versions will penetrate and perform much better the water-based versions.
Semi-Transparent Stains
Semi-transparent stains contain pigments that highlights the natural grain while sealing the surface. The semi-transparent wood and decking stains are our favorite. Both water and oil-based are available.
Pros: Average to better than average UV protection. Shows natural grain. Very good penetration. In most scenarios can be cleaned and re-coated easily. Can be removed with a deck stain stripper.
Cons: Most water-based versions perform poorly compared to the oils. Many states with the Low VOC laws have a limited amount of quality oil-based stains available. May need to buy online if in a Low VOC area.
Transparent Wood Stains
Transparent deck coatings look the most natural as they contain minimal pigment. The average life of a transparent decking stain is about 1 year. Mostly oil-based only are available.
Pros: Very easy to apply and reapply as needed. Natural looking.
Cons: Below average UV protection. Typically need to be re-coated annually.
Clear Wood Deck Finishes
Clear Deck Finishes offer little to no UV protection and will gray quickly. Typically used as sealers.
Pros: Does not change the appearance. Extremely easy to apply.
Cons: Grays and oxidizes in months.
Non-Drying Oil vs Drying Oil-Based Stains
Drying oils are “curing” oils. This means that they actually dry on top of or just below the surface. They will help “seal” the wood as well. Non-drying oils are the opposite. They never actually dry, but rather dive deep into the wood to help condition the cells of the wood. Paraffin oil (not wax) is the most common.
Are Deck Finishes, Stains, Sealers, or Both?
This question can be confusing to homeowners. In general, all deck stains are sealers as well as they will help prevent water absorption. Deck sealers typically are not stains as they do not have any pigment. Some though may have a very light tint.
Low VOC Stains and States:
Currently, there are 17 States that restrict Decking Stains and Coatings. These states require a lower amount of Volatile Organic Compounds to be released into the air. This mainly affects oil-based coatings. By lowering the amount of “solvents” that can evaporate into the ozone you need to increase the amount of “solids”. This can cause issues with oil-based stains as they may have drying and curing problems. There are still a few good oil-based stains allowed in the Low VOC States, but not as readily available at your local stores. You may need to go on the Internet to find them and have them shipped. A couple of examples would be TWP 1500 Series and Armstrong Clark Wood Stains.
Current Low VOC States:
California, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Vermont, Delaware, District of Columbia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Northern VA, Pennsylvania, Arizona, Ohio, Illinois, Indiana.
DeckStainHelp.com Suggestions:
With all of these different types of products, we prefer the semi-transparent products as they allow the wood grain to show. They offer better than average UV protection and can be easier to reapply in the future. Penetration is better for oil-based versions over the water-based versions. The one exception is the water-based Defy Stains.
See this: Top 5 Semi-transparent Deck Stains
*All decking stains will eventually fail that is why you want a deck stain that is easy to work with down the road.
Great information but answer this please to one that knows nothing about wood! What is NEW wood? New to me, i.e., I just bought it? New because it was just cut at the lumber yard? I mean, how am I supposed to know? I bought treated lumber from a big box store and built a deck. It’s early fall now and I feel compelled to get the deck treated before the snow flies in a few short weeks, but, is my deck wood too new to successfully treat? (I would use semi-transparent oil based TWC if I can find it. Thanks for your input.
New wood is anything that has been built/installed and then has weathered for less than a year. See this for more info: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I just put Cabot semi solid on my deck. It looks really good but if I would of seen your site before I got the Cabot, I would of got the restore a deck stuff you recommended. Can I put the restore a deck over the Cabot in a year or two? How long do you think the Cabot will last? Am I wrong in thinking that these semi solids and semi trans will fade in time and not peel like a solid stain? I’m in Ohio and just want something that will last a long time even if it costs more. What would you do in this situation? Whatever you suggest I am going to do. Thanks for your help and time.
No, if switching brands you will need to remove the Cabot. The Cabot will probably last a year or two. Your semi-solid Cabot will probably peel as it is a filming acrylic stain, not penetrating. At this point, it is best to leave as is until it fails and then remove it then
The kind I got you had to pick a color and they mix it in. The lady said it wouldn’t peel and it says deep penetrating on the can. It is really runny. You think it will still peel? That is false advertising if it does. I really wish I had found your site before getting the Cabot because I can tell you know exactly what your doing. If you don’t have a Youtube page you should make one and show your work. You could get partnered and make a decent amount of money from it. Thanks again.
It will peel most likely.
Whenever it is custom mixed means it is acrylic based and it will dry on top of the wood resulting in a high chance of peeling.
The Cabot I got had to be mixed for the color you wanted and says deep penetrating on the can. The lady said it would’t peel. I don’t know anything about these stains. Do you think it will still peel even tho They told me it wouldn’t? They do have some semi solid already with color in them but I had to pick a color I wanted with the kind I got. I’m just worried with peeling because I have plants near by and an apple tree. If you think it will still peel after all this info, I would like to get rid of it before it does. Thanks.
Sorry for leaving 2 replies. I refreshed and my first was gone and same with second so that must be how it is when you reply to an existing post.
Have a new deck which will be powerwashed in 1-3 months….we have a lot of trees and very little sun…what would your recommendations be?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
not in the sun?
That would depend on the brand but in general, avoid the hot sun.
when is the best time to put stain down?
Between 50-85 degrees.
What is the best transparent oil based stain to put on a new,pressure treated lumber, deck that gets a lot of very hot sun in the summer?
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
My questions are: How should the porch floor be prepped to be redone, meaning repainted, or stained, whichever would be best? I’m pretty sure it can be sanded down to bare wood. Should it also be power washed.? What would be the best product as I’d like to have the product matched to a a BM color, Rockport Gray. What do you think of California Paints, Enduradeck Storm System?
1. New Wood or Older Wood? Older wood
2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes, chipping and flaking porch paint
3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Switching n/a
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter unknown if you do not know. unknown
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? I believe it is acrylic porch paint over very old lead paint.
6. Mold or Mildew Issues? Some
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Age, improper care, exposure to weather in northeast
8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Pressure wash first Let dry and sand any loose paint. Repaint with any porch paint you like. We do not work with porch paints so not sure of what is good or bad. This site is more about deck stains and those are different than porch paints.
Hi, do appreciate your site. Easy to read with constructive information!
Within the last few weeks had a new cedar deck build, in central Texas, which was stained using Sherwin Williams 3502 semi transparent water based stain. Some drops of stain can be found along the railing and look very much like a solid because of insufficient penetration. Some people are giving advice to apply a 2nd coat immediately but am concerned this will not penetrate and look like a solid. Should I apply a 2nd coat and if so am I better of applying a transparent stain instead of the same semi transparent or maybe a completely different product?
You should not apply another coat of the same as it will look like a solid. You cannot apply a different brand of stain over the SW. Best to leave alone for now. In a year or so when it fails, remove it and use a true penetrating semi-transparent stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Have you reviewed Pittsburgh Paramount deck stain/sealer yet?
Pittsburgh (PPG) has 3 versions of the same stain but changes the name based on the big box store. Paramount is Menards. See here for the exact same but different name for HD: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ppg-timeless-deck-stain-review/
Thanks! After reading your reviews I think I’m going to go with the Restore A Deck stain. I do have one question. I just stripped off the old acrylic stain on our deck, using Wolman deck stripper ASR, and was wondering if after sanding down the rough spot would it be ready to stain? We bought this house a year ago so I have no idea how old the deck is but the wood looks to be in decent shape.
It should be but make sure to use a wood brightener as well after to neutralize the stripper. Be careful of spot sanding as the stain may not take evenly then.
One last question. I put on the first coat of restore a deck, should I put on a second coat? It looks great now? Does it matter when you apply the second coat? It’s been a day.
No need to add another one now and if you do, it has to be applied wet on wet. You can always lightly clean and reapply a coat next year or as needed.
Thanks!
Sorry, absolute last one. I have a 2nd story deck. Should I stain underneath? Previous owners did not.
No reason unless you want too for aesthetic purpose.
Does Restore A Deck need a sealant later? Just rained here and the water isn’t beading. Is it suppose to?
No amd you cannot add a sealer over a deck stain. Quality stains like the RAD breathe and do not bead water. They shed water instead.
Thank you so much! You’ve been very helpful
When trying to match old wood with new will a semi solid stain be similar to a solid stain ?
Will the semi solid stain be easier than the solid stain to remove after 2 or 3 years ?
No, it will still show some diffrence in color between the new and old boards. As for removal, that would depend on the brand of stain you use.
Sure, some difference just as I thought…its the Home Depot web site that implies that either one would make a good blend in between the new boards and the old ones.
Thanks you’re a busy guy
30yr old House that’s been stained 15 times with Olympic semi transparent natural tone redwood.Would like to put on a better quality semi transparent stain what would you recommend that would be compatibly with Olympic? I’ve scrubed the house with wood brighter.
Nothing can go over the Olympic so you will need to remove it.
Hi
I have 30 year old Olympic semi transparent alkyd/oil deck fence and siding stain on my cedar house siding. Can I stain over top with another type of semi transparent that won’t peel off?
Thanks
Treated lumber has not held semi solid Cabot stain. Can Behr solid be used overtop after 4-5 yes? Both stains water clean up.
You can use a solid stain over the Cabot.
do some, water base semi- transparent stains darken in time with ceder?
No, not really. They typically lighten. Some oil-based stains will darken.
Can I mix Cabot Australian Timber Oil (Jarroh Brown) with Penofin Red Label Brazilian Rosewood oil (transparent Redwood cedar)? I have a 1/4 can of each and a small project. If I mix them, I’ll have plenty, but not enough individually.
No.
I have a 22 year old ironwood deck with pressure-treated vertical posts and risers. I think it was sealed with a semitransparent stain when new but has not had any treatment since then. I just cleaned the deck with a homemade diluted oxygen bleach (Oxiclean) and Dawn detergent solution and it looks good. I am frankly fine with the natural graying of the ironwood and the natural color of the pressure-treated vertical elements. But I wonder whether I need to seal the vertical pressure-treated surfaces, which do show some cracking, even if I do not seal/stain the ironwood. Aesthetically I am fine with the appearance but want to make sure I am not ignoring important maintenance with regard to the longevity of the deck.
Best to use a penetrating semi-transparent stain for this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
They will help with the longevity and appearance of the wood.
Thanks for your swift reply! I guess if I treat the upright elements I should also treat the ironwood horizontal elements, and then allow it to age naturally again. I imagine re-treatment of the vertical pressure – treated parts would not need to be done very often, but do you agree?
Yes, that is correct.
One more question… is Armstrong Clark or TWP Stains good for the Pacific NW Climate? Lots of rain at time , less sun etc. Moss…
Yes, both would work well.
Have a 14 year old pressure treated deck, covered but obviously outer edges see tons of sun. It is our main entrance to the house so used a lot. Received bad advice 5 or 6 years ago – had semi transparent oil (think it was cabot) originally and restained it every couple years with the same stuff. Wanted to try something new, Lowe’s suggest a water based stain. Not positive if it was solid or semi solid but it pretty much covered everything. We didn’t clean or sand before applying and miraculously it lasted quite some time but has finally started peeling/fading, etc. We are in the process of power sanding everything, decided cost wise to replace the spindles with new (about 100 give or take) to save time as the rest is taking days/hours. The deck is 12 x 24. We have the railings down to bare, good looking wood but the floor isn’t quite so good. Understandable. We are belt sanding it and then using an orbital to get more off. Down to 60 grit now and going to try 40 as it’s stubborn. I can submit a pic if needed but wanted advice – the floor is some bare wood but also besides the pretty knots and grain there are spots that look wet (darker color)….would we be best to use a semi solid to cover? I hate to cover up what we’ve revealed, especially on the railings as they look brand new. Maybe semi transparent on railings and semi solid on floor? Husband wants to use a dark color to cover, I don’t. We are leery to use a cleaner or brightener as we have pets and free range chickens (we sell eggs) and don’t want to take ANY chance of ingestion of chemicals, even with watering down. Any suggestions, and recommendations on what brand of stain to use? I’m seeing fairly bad reviews on here of Cabot and Olympic and Thompson’s doesn’t sell semi solid. HELP!
Post a picture for proper advice. The prep products will not harm pets or chickens.
Will add a pic later, thanks…
I posted pics but they’re not showing, any idea why? Was really hoping to get an answer soon as we have to order the brightener, etc online, no stores in my area carry such a thing, only cleaner. THANKS!
Pic 1 shows the railing after sanding, as stated above, it’s down to bare, clean wood – I personally don’t think it needs any brightening, etc. but it’s hard to get a good lighting picture. Pic 2 shows what we started with on left and after belt sanding with 40 grit on right. Pic 3 is after belt sanding AND sanding with the orbital, I think it looks darn good. Pic 4 is before sanding on top and after belt sanding on bottom, hasn’t been hit with the orbital yet. But, it’s with different lighting, all depends on how the sun hits it. I’m ok with using brightener if need be, let me know your thoughts. And please an opinion on what would work best – semi or semi solid? Could we get away with something other than dark brown? Or would a semi transparent dark brown be a good choice? I want to be able to see the wood somewhat, not clear by any means. Also, oil or water? What lasts better and is easier to clean/remove if needed in the future. Appreciate your help.
Brighten all wood, not need to use the cleaner. The brightener will open the pores of the wood better for the stain. Go with a color that will blend and yes, a medium to dark brown would work best.
Try Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown or TWP in Dark Oak.
Thank you so much!!!! Those were two colors I was looking at actually (too dark for me but makes the hubby happy). Does anyone know if the rustic is too orangey? Trying to avoid that as that’s what we had before.
AC Rustic Brown is not orangy. Rustic in TWP can be.
Very much appreciated – thanks for helping all us clueless people! Want it done right this time! We’ll probably go with the rustic brown (may order sample to be sure) and keep up with it every 2 years or so with cleaning.
Sorry, sorry, sorry! So you think a semi transparent would work ok rather than the semi solid? Hubby thinks semi solid but as I said above, I’d like to see more of the wood after all our work AND I think the maintenance is easier than taking the step towards solid, we would have to sand again if redoing.
Order semi-solid sample if you want to see how it looks. Look at Espresso from AC.
Both would work though.
Pic 1 shows the railing after sanding, as stated above, it’s down to bare, clean wood – I personally don’t think it needs any brightening, etc. but it’s hard to get a good lighting picture. Pic 2 shows what we started with on left and after belt sanding with 40 grit on right. Pic 3 is after belt sanding AND sanding with the orbital, I think it looks darn good. Pic 4 is before sanding on top and after belt sanding on bottom, hasn’t been hit with the orbital yet. But, it’s with different lighting, all depends on how the sun hits it. I’m ok with using brightener if need be, let me know your thoughts. And please an opinion on what would work best – semi or semi solid? Could we get away with something other than dark brown? Or would a semi transparent dark brown be a good choice? I want to be able to see the wood somewhat, not clear by any means. Also, oil or water? What lasts better and is easier to clean/remove if needed in the future. Appreciate your help.
In the past I used Cabot 3000 natural clear on my deck. It was not the blue top. I’he stripped off the old and ready to redo. What is your experience with the current Cabot line? Its been 10 years since I applied and I see there has been many changes.
Cabot is not the same as it used to be or nearly as good. Ever since they sold the company and changed the formulas, it has gone downhill.
Can you mix equal parts of oil base solid stain & oil base semi transparent stain
No.
Since when? Why would you say No?
Never could. Does not matter the base type but no manufacturer will ever suggest mixing a solid stain with a semi-transparent stain. The results will be erratic in color, consistency, and performance.
Well, I’m here to tell you you’re wrong. I have been mixing different types of stains and paints for over 45 years with no problems to speak of. I could argue about pigmentations and consistency of oil paints and stains all day. If you are a manufacturer, or a salesman, your answer will always be no it can’t be done. Until you do it yourself. Have faith, the sky’s the limit.
Good luck with that on a deck.
I have a dock on the intercoastal waterway.
1. South Carolina
2. Full sun
3. Pine wood pressure treated
4. No mold issues
5. Dock builder applied Thompsons I think.
What is the best way to protect the dock for the future…
Prep well and then use the Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color for full sun: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
Hi I live in Northern Minnesota I have used Olympic maximum stain plus sealer. Transparent natural cedar number 417. It says last 6yrs. Well it has lasted one and put on a second coat agin this year. And all ready the area that is walked the most is starting to wear away what do you reccomend for this? I love the color of olympic but the wearing away part is what frustrates me.
Strip and sand to remove it fully and then use a penetrating wood stain like TWP or Armstrong Clark.
What is TWP?
A wood stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/twp-100-series-wood-and-deck-stain-review-2016/
best black colored stain?
None are a true black. Darkest would be Espresso from Armstrong Clark or TWP Black Walnut.
Timbercare Para Ebony is as black as you can get and looks good years after application on my fence. There are no reviews of it on here. I am in Canada.
I cannot find a product that will remove a latex solid color stain from treated lumber.
That’s because a solid color deck stain will need to be powered sanded to remove fully. Strippers will not work very well on a solid stain.
Lowes quick selling Olympic Max stain and sealant We always used that in a honey gold. We tried the brand they sell now and it looks like baby poop. Any suggestion on where to find it.
They changed formulas so the old is not available anymore. Try stripping and brightening for prep and use TWP in Honeytone for the look you want.
Our Cedar deck is approximately 16 years old. We just finished scrapping and sanding off the Behr DeckOver that was applied and was peeling off in sheets. We would like to apply a clear water proofing on the deck. What would be recommended for the Cedar Deck. We are in Manitoba Canada.
Armstrong Clark or TWP 200 Series.
Are these two available in Canada
No, but you can have them shipped there. Nothing decent for local pick up according to other Canadians who have commented on this site.
I need a oil based deck clear for the pool area. I have a salt water pool, and the floor boards get wet a lot.
Look at TWP Wood stains or Armstrong Clark.
What is the quality of penofin verde stain? Is it recommended for a mahogany deck?
Not a fan of any Penofin stain. They have issues of darkening or turning black. The Verde is no different. For Mahogany, look at one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
Can you use a water based stain three years after the application of an oil based stain?
Only if you remove the oil-based stain first.
Any thoughts on ABR X-100 Natural Seal Deck Finish? Went through a gallon of it and need to re-stain my deck and wondering if I should stick with this brand or try something different.
Average stain. Better than many Big Box brands.
We used Benjamin Moore oil based mahogany flame on our mahogany deck three years ago and the odor was horrible and lasted a year! We have a toddler and infant now and really would like to minimize exposure to vocs. A few pieces are rotting out and we have to deal with something. What do you recommend?
Strip and brighten for prep and stain with Restore A Deck Wood stain in a semi-transparent color.
I’m using TWP 100 series and I would like to know instead of using the bleach water solution they recommend for cleaning, could I use the Restore a deck cleaner /brightener instead? I am using this on 1 year old Cedar that has never been stained. It is for a dock. Is there a better product than TWP 100 series that I could use for the dock because the wood gets wet near the shore? Thank you.
TWP suggests their Gemini Cleaner/Brightener Kit for prep. The TWP would work well for this dock.
Does the Germany 895 restore a deck cleaner come in two different boxes? They both say Gemini restore a deck but some are advertised as Gemini 895, but some are not advertised as 895. One store will have a different box advertised as 895, next store will have the same box- Gemini restore a deck, but does not say 895. If the box is different but as long as they are Gemini restore a deck cleaner is this the right product?
Buy from TWP directly and not Amazon or Walmart. They are authorized dealers.
Planning on staining a pergola that was built by previous owners- built approx 3/4 yrs ago. I want to stain it black and am looking for a solid black look. After reading reviews will stay away from Behr (thank you) who I initially was going to go with.
Recommendations on brand I should use.
Located in Ontario, Canada.
Should note pergola is in the sun 99% of the day
Look at Flood Pro Series Solid Stains.
A solid black stain calls for an oil primer first.
You don’t want the Olympic Maximum Stain-Sealer. It peels and separates in 6-8 months. I didn’t read the fine print on can so did not know to put 2 coats on. It is supposed to be guaranteed for 10 years on decks, and 25 years on fences. When I called today to file a warranty complaint their excuse it was supposed to have 2 coats. I believe it would still have peel off with 2 coats. I am not able to do this work myself and can’t afford someone to come scrape and apply 2 more coats. They are only going to reimburse me the price of product used. Never again will I buy any Olympic products.
I have painted my decks for the last 15 yrs with Thompsons water seal Deck and House oil stain. I have used the solid stain in a pewter gray. It peels on the horizontal surfaces every year like paint would and I usually have to redo the tops of the railings and the deck surface every year. Last year they stopped making the product. This year I am looking for another product that I can put over it hopefully to match the same color so I don’t have to do the entire deck. Someone at Lowes told me that there is nothing I can put over it because it had a wax base. Do you know if he is correct or if there is a product out there I can use? I am not sure if the person at Lowes was familiar with the product I have been using.
You cannot fix the issue by adding some other brand on top. Best to sand it all off and start over.
Help! I am from Toronto and would like to Stain my deck which can last really longer. I have looked for options like Armstrong but the colors are limited in Semi Transparent. Please suggest me few names that can last longer and have tons of color options to pick from.
Premixed penetrating semi-transparent stains will always come in limited color options. The only way to get a lot of colors options is to custom mix and that means it will be a solid stain.
Don’t get Olympic. I recommend sticking with old faithful Thompson’s Sealer.
Thompsons Water Seal is useless. Does nothing for UV protection and repels water for a month or two at most.
Hi There! Just built new deck. We will be using a semi-transparent stain probably. I’m worried about the deck being too hot for our dogs feet, as well as ours lol. Can you help? Is there an extra coating? Something we could mix into the stain we will use ? Thanks so much!
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Lighter colors will retain less heat. Nothing can be added to the stain.
Hello,
We had our patio completed last August. The contractors had the cedar in our driveway months before they started the work, so the cedar was already damaged by the time the actual construction started.
In addition, after completion, they informed us that staining wasn’t included in the price. Because of our busy schedule, we haven’t been able to stain the patio at all.
As you can see on the pictures, we have water stains, faded posts and facade, and sap stains (?). As of yesterday, we also have the pleasure of hosting carpenter bees. We are now ready to stain and looking for your guidance as to how to best clean and stain our patio. Thank you very much! Eva and Allen
Deck Location State: Houston, Texas
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun
Wood Type: Western Red Cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: Only water stain
Reason for Previous Stain Failure: None
The water stains probably will not come out. If anything will work, it will be a wood brightener. The black stripes will have to be sanded off. Do that first and then brightener on all wood. Stain with a Restore A Deck Semi-trans stain or TWP 100 Series.
Should we use Restore A Deck cleaner as well on the entire patio or not necessary if we apply wood brightener to all wood? Thank you!
Yes, you can try that.
HELP!!! I have a 20 yr. Old deck which is treated pine. Approx. 3 yrs ago I used Behr solid in a dark gray on it. Within 2 weeks it was seriously peeling. I called the manufacturer and they said I had to strip it all of and redo it. I waited a year or so and redid it with the same stain. Horrible stuff! Peeled within a week and now a lot of it is off but there is still alot of stain that would not powerwash off. Most of the upright/ verticals are still decent. We are now replacing the railing and using hog fence/goat fence instead of spindles. What can I Do? My deck is 74ft. Long by 10ft with a 14×10 extension so I really don’t want to have to keep redoing it so often. Also can I leave the post and stain over them or paint them in a Matt black? Desperate for advice. I live in Michigan. Lots of snow, hot sun in summer until approx. 2pm. Also will a stripper work? What kind, where to buy and will it damage cement patio below.
You have to remove all the Behr to fix and that will require power sanding. A stripper will not work. Once fully sanded off, use one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
You cannot use a paint on a deck.
Large deck in NJ 8 years, part full sun, part shade, used Behr semi transparent water-based that applies/dries like semi- solid (as mentioned elsewhere on your site) and peels miserably. I power washed / lightly sanded last year and reapplied same stain. Of course, came out blotchy and is peeling worse than ever. Am skeptical that I can get back to bare wood so I can apply a proper semi-transparent stain. This was confirmed by pro deck guy who wants to sand and apply sherwin williams solid. Really don’t want to go the “paint” route… Looking for advice.
You really have no choice but to fully removal the Behr to fix this issue and that will require stripping off what you can and sanding the rest off. Brightener after.
Yes, I guess I’m asking in your expert opinion if it is really possible to fully remove the Behr stain or if you agree with the pro deck guy that said it’s impossible and to just stand as much you can you and then use a solid stain.
Post a picture of the current condition.
Here are some pics – thanks
You can power sand this off but it will not be easy. Stripping will not work on this solid stain. It is easier to cover this with a solid stain.
Arghh stupid Behr stain!!!! Thanks for advice. So I’ll sand and go with a solid stain.
New deck in the pacific northwest, Washington State last year with alaskan yellow cedar. Used Behr deck and siding stain, which has done well in the past. entire deck has peeled/ gooey and is blotchy.. in process of power washing…deck is over 1200 SF …so disappointed. Power washing only getting portions… seemed like stain never was absorbed by the wood. Is it a stain product problem or type of wood or both….really want to get it right this next time.. suggestions for removing and then what stain to use. I heard there are two types of oil stains….plant based and petroleum based
Once stripped off, make sure to brighten the wood. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark. Both are high-quality oil-based stains.
Pine deck is about 2.5 years old and was stained with Ready Seal 1.5 years ago. Horizontal surfaces show no stain color anymore. Will the cleaner and brightener be enough prior to staining with RAD or will I need the stripper?
Strip and brighten for the prep.
We just had a new deck built over the weekend. We live in Arkansas. It is just a plain flat 338 Square foot deck. What would be the best stain to use? Want as little maintenance as possible, but we want a darker brown color to match some wood pillars we have on our adjacent porch.
What is the best way to apply?
See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
After wait and prep, try Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown.
So for 338 square feet i need about 2 gallons? What would you recommend i apply with?
2 should work. Use a stain pad or brush.
We were shopping for a stain that got good reviews and found your article. Please help with advice on best stain to purchase for our house! We live in The southeast and have a cabin with exterior siding of cypress wood. It has been weathering for several years without any finish. We also have a covered front and back porch with a wooden wheel chair ramp off the back porch, so lots of wooden surfaces to cover. Our contractor is recommending Behr stain. We are retired and want something that is low maintenance, won’t peel, protects the wood and easily reapplied when needed. What would you recommend and should we use a different stain for siding and porch floors since they get a lot of wear? Also can the contractor use a sprayer for TWP? Thanks in advance for your help!
Do not use Behr. Has terrible reviews. The TWP would work great and can be used for all surfaces. It can be sprayed.
So my deck is all prepped, Armstrong Clark chestnut arrived in the mail yesterday. Cloudy skies…ready to stain! Question is…what is the fastest way to stain? Can I use a pump sprayer and then have my wife come behind me with a big wide brush to stroke the oil in good? should I roll it? or use my Graco sprayer?
Thanks!
AC cannot be pump sprayed on. Too thick. Use stain pads or brushes.
update: Used pads and brushes, went on good! love armstrong clark! Weather was good but horrible luck had a pop-up rain cloud come through at 8pm! it’s raining on my freshly stained deck I did at 2 pm? crap…what’s going to happen? What can I expect?..
Only thing I will say is that I feel it dried before the rain came. I noticed on this website and a label on the AC gallon containers to not over apply…so I didn’t. If anything I would say I under-applied. I didn’t even use 2 gallons on a 414 sq ft deck. It still looked great after staining it though. This might have helped it dry very quickly before the rain came. Thoughts? ..
Most likely okay. Best to wait until the rains stop and it dries to take a look.
It only rained for 30 min. I just went out and squeegeed off the standing water, lots of wind tonight, should dry fast. Fingers crossed.
I’m at Lowes’s now and I have no idea what to buy. I live in New Jersey and my deck is only around 300 sq ft. I replaced it with new pressures treated wood/deck. What’s the best thing I can buy here at Lowe’s? They have Thompson’s, valspar, Cabot, Australian Timber Oil. How much do I need to buy? A gallon good for 300 Sq ft? I want something that can last me a long time and less maintenance. I want to stain and seal combination, no resurface as I had that and that is the reason I’m pull every single deck board out and replacing it with new ones. Should I get semi-solid or semi-transparent? Your reviews shows semi-solids is better in terms of pros and cons but semi-transparent is your favorite. Which one should I buy?
Sorry but nothing at Lowes is decent.
What do you recommend? I just found your website while standing at Lowe’s trying to google what to buy.
One of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Can the these stains be used on a children’s wood playground set?
Yes.
So, exactly what brand and type is TheBEST OIL-BASED product??? I want an old fashioned oil product that deeply penetrates the wood and cleans up with Mineral Spirits or Turpentine.
TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark wood stains.
I have a nine year old deck made out of Southern Yellow Pine L-3 pressure treated wood (Wolmanized). It currently has a Penofin stain on it. If I have the deck power washed and brightened, can I use the TWP stain on it? Will TWP adhere and last for the 2-3 year expectancy on pressure treated wood? I live in sunny Colorado.
Did you remove all of the Penofin? It will need to come off for the TWP to perform properly.
Yes, all of the penofin will be removed. I guess I’m wondering if TWP would be the best stain to use on pressure treated wood. Have there been any issue with TWP and pressure treated wood? Some stains (Messmer’s) are made for pressure treated wood. Do you recommend them over TWP?
TWP works great for PTP.
Northern facing deck on the beach built one year ago in SE Virginia. Deck boards are composite. Wanting to stain the pine railings white. Solid vs semi? And what is the best choice of brands for coastal salt/weather?
If you want white you will need a solid stain. Try Flood Pro Series solid stains.
What is best manuf for Flood Pro Seies white stain?
Not sure what you mean?