This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Hi, I’m Scott Paul, a seasoned exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of expertise in exterior wood care. This article is one of my favorites because it breaks down all the different deck stains available, giving you the insights you need to make an informed choice. If you’re researching wood and decking stains, this is a must-read. Learn more about me here.
What Type of Stain Should You Use on Your Deck?
Choosing the right deck stain comes down to selecting a high-quality product that suits your deck’s condition and meets your specific needs. One of the most important factors to consider is the stain’s transparency or opacity, which ranges from clear, transparent, semi-transparent, semi-solid, to solid finishes.
- For Newer Decks: If your deck is in great condition with newer wood, a more transparent stain is ideal. It enhances the natural beauty of the wood grain while providing protection.
- For Older Decks: If your deck has imperfections or weathered wood, a semi-solid or solid stain is a better choice. These provide a more “paint-like” appearance, offering better coverage and hiding flaws while still protecting the surface.
Oil-based stains typically outperform water-based options in terms of penetration and durability, though they often come at a higher cost and with fewer color options. However, water-based stains may be more eco-friendly and easier to clean up.
When selecting a stain, consider your local climate. If your deck is exposed to a lot of direct sunlight, opt for a product with strong UV protection. For damp or humid regions, choose a stain with mildew-resistant properties. Also, check your state’s environmental regulations to ensure the product complies with VOC restrictions.
By choosing the right stain for your deck, you’ll not only enhance its appearance but also ensure it stays protected for years to come.
Understanding the Different Types of Deck Stains
Over the past 30+ years, I’ve worked with countless deck stain brands and types. Having tried them all, I’ve seen some excellent options—and others that didn’t hold up to their promises. While the landscape of deck stains has evolved due to changing manufacturers and stricter VOC laws, there are still top-quality options available in 2025. The key is knowing where to look.
Deck stains have come a long way since the early 1990s. Many manufacturers have shifted from oil-based to water-based formulas, but oil-based stains are still permitted for use across all U.S. states and Canada. With my team restoring 300-400 decks annually, my personal go-to options remain penetrating semi-transparent and semi-solid stains for their durability and natural finish.
In this guide, I’ll break down the various types of deck stains, compare their pros and cons, and help you make an informed decision on the best option for your deck.
See My List of the Top 8 Best Deck Stains
Scott’s Steps To Understanding Deck Stains
- Watch my video that explains the different deck stains available
- Water-Based Deck Stains
- Oil-Based Deck Stains
- Deck Resurface Coatings
- Solid Color Stains
- Semi-Solid Deck Stains
- Semi-Transparent Deck Stain
- Transparent Deck Stains
- Clear Deck Sealers
- VOC Laws and what does that mean?
- Read Common Deck Stain Questions
- My Best Deck Stain Suggestions
Deck Stain Type Comparison Chart
-See below for full in-depth differences and descriptions for each.
| Stain Type | Appearance | Durability | Ease of Application | Maintenance | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Clear / Wood Toner | Natural wood grain visible, slight tone | ★☆☆☆☆ (1 year) | ★★★★☆ | Easy recoating | Newer wood, cedar, or if you want a natural look |
| Semi-Transparent | Enhances wood grain with color | ★★★★☆ (2–3 years) | ★★★★☆ | Moderate – light cleaning | Most deck types needing color & UV protection |
| Semi-Solid | Less grain visibility, more pigment | ★★★★☆ (2–4 years) | ★★★☆☆ | May require stripping, but varies based on brand | Older decks or those needing more color |
| Solid (Opaque) | Paint-like look, hides grain | ★★★☆☆ (1–3 years) | ★★☆☆☆ | Difficult – sanding/stripping | Very old wood or previously painted/stained decks |
Notes:
- UV protection improves as opacity increases.
- Durability may vary depending on prep, wood condition, and climate.
- Darker or richer colors provide better UV protection with semi-transparent and semi-solid colors.
- Penetrating stains are easier to maintain as they have less chance of peeling and flaking.
Explaining the Types of Deck Stains Video
Watch my video on all the different deck stains sold today. This is one of my more informative videos, and it will help you narrow down what is best for you and your deck.
Water-Based Wood Deck Stains
Water-Based Wood Deck Stains
Water-based deck stains have risen rapidly in the last 8-10 years. The main reason for the vast number of water-based stains on the market today is related to changes in VOC laws across the country. Many states have adopted or will adopt lower VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) regulations, which has prompted stain manufacturers to increase the production of water-soluble decking stains. Water-based deck stains are “thin” paints with varying amounts of acrylic and pigment. Most water-based deck stain brands have a high failure rate, but a few great options exist.
My Pros: Water cleanup, less chance of mold or mildew growth. Environmentally friendly.
My Cons: They do not penetrate as an oil base can. They are slightly more complicated to apply as they dry quickly. They can be prone to peeling and wearing. *Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains and Defy Wood Stains are the only exceptions I have used successfully. They penetrate the best of all water-based stains, nearly as well as an oil.
Oil-based Wood Deck Stains
Oil Based DeckStain
Oil-based decking stains have been around for 30-40 years and have traditionally been what all stain manufacturers produce. Oil-based stains are typically made up of natural and synthetic oils. Many contain oils, such as Linseed Oil, Paraffin Oil, Tung Oil, Rosewood Oil, Etc.
My Pros: Excellent penetration into the wood. The better a deck stain can penetrate, the better its performance. It is also easier to apply and more natural-looking.
My Cons: Stronger odors, longer drying, and curing time. Some oils can promote the growth of mildew. Some oil-based stains will darken in color over time.
Deck Resurface Coatings
Deck Resurface products are similar to extremely thick paint. They are designed to mask the wood and fill large cracks or voids, and they will not show any wood grain. Please note that this product is far beyond conventional wood restoration.
My Pros: Excellent UV protection, enhanced traction, and filling of voids and cracks. Restoring an older deck is an excellent idea if it works.
My Cons: So far, most of these product types have failed miserably. They peel after the first Winter and cannot be removed with a deck stain stripper. Sanding, scraping, or even the replacement of the wood is needed. There are many reviews on our site and other sites with angry consumers and product failures. Class action lawsuits are being filed against Rust-oleum Deck Restore and Olympic Rescue-It. Behr Deckover has the same issues as well. Only a couple of these products seem to work. Consider the Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive if you want one of these coatings. See this link for more info, articles, and reviews on these coatings: Deck Resurface Coatings.
Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive Photos
Solid Color Decking Stains (Opaque)
Solid deck stains look like paints but are thinner for better adhesion and penetration into the wood. They cover or mask the wood, so you will no longer see the wood grain. Once you apply a solid decking stain, there is little chance you will ever be able to go back to a transparent stain. Solid stains come in water-based versions only nowadays.
My Pros: Excellent UV protection.
My Cons: Films on top of the wood do not penetrate well, are susceptible to peeling, look like paint, and are more challenging to apply. They cannot be effectively removed with a deck stain stripper.
Solid Color Deck Stain Photos
Semi-Solid Wood Deck Stains
A Semi-Solid Deck Stain will only show a small amount of wood grain as it contains a high amount of pigment. Only a limited number of manufacturers offer semi-solids, which can be both water-based and oil-based.
My Pros: They provide excellent UV protection. However, if they are water-based, they are prone to peeling. Look for oil-based semi-solid stains only.
My Cons: Only a tiny amount of wood grain will show. Oil-based semi-solid versions will penetrate and perform much better than water-based versions.
Semi-Solid Deck Stain Photos
Semi-Transparent Wood Deck Stains
These are my favorites, but the primary key is that it must be a penetrating semi-transparent stain. Semi-transparent deck stains contain pigments that highlight the natural grain while sealing the surface. Both water and oil-based are available.
My Pros: They offer average to better-than-average UV protection, show natural grain, and have very good penetration. In most scenarios, they can be cleaned and re-coated easily and removed with a deck stain stripper.
My Cons: Most water-based versions perform poorly compared to the oils. Many states with Low VOC laws have limited quality oil-based stains available. You may need to buy online if you live in a low VOC area.
Semi-Transparent Deck Stain Photos
Transparent Wood Deck Stains
Transparent deck coatings look the most natural as they contain minimal pigment. The average life of a transparent decking stain is about one year. Mostly oil-based only are available.
My Pros: Straightforward to apply and reapply as needed. Natural-looking.
My Cons: Below average UV protection. Typically, it needs to be re-coated annually.
Transparent Deck Stain Colors
Clear Wood Deck Finishes
Clear Deck Sealer
Clear Deck Finishes offer little to no UV protection and will gray quickly. They are typically used as sealers or water repellents and will not last over 6-12 months before needing to be re-coated.
My Pros: They do not change the appearance of the wood. They are extremely easy to apply.
My Cons: In months, the wood will gray and oxidize from the sun’s UV.
Low VOC Stains and States
Currently, 20 States and Canada restrict Decking Stains and Coatings. These states require fewer Volatile Organic Compounds to be released into the air. The lower VOC changes mainly affect oil-based coatings. By lowering the amount of “solvents” that can evaporate into the ozone, you need to increase the amount of “solids.” This can cause issues with oil-based stains, which may have drying and curing problems. A few good oil-based stains are still allowed in the Low VOC States but are not as readily available at your local stores. You may need to go online to find them and have them shipped. Examples would be the TWP 1500 Series and Armstrong Clark Wood Stains.
Current Low VOC States:
California, Colorado, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, New Hampshire, Vermont, Delaware, District of Columbia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Northern VA, Pennsylvania, Arizona, Ohio, Illinois, and Indiana.
Common Deck Stain Type Questions
What are Deck Stains, and Why Use Them?
Deck stains protect and preserve exterior wood. They offer UV protection, water repellency, mold and mildew resistance, and more. Deck coatings come in many types of opacity and bases. Based on their VOC laws, many deck stain brands can be restricted in certain states, cities, and countries, and unfortunately, walking into your local store may produce some of the worst options available.
Difference of Non-Drying Oil vs Drying Oil-Based Stains
Drying oils are “curing” oils. This means that they actually dry on top of or just below the surface. They will also help “seal” the wood. Non-drying oils are the opposite. They never dry or fully cure but dive deep into the wood to help condition the cells. Paraffin oil (not wax) is the most common.
Are Deck Finishes, Stains, Sealers, or Both?
This question can be confusing to homeowners. All deck stains are sealers that will help prevent water absorption. Deck sealers typically are not stains, as they do not have any pigment. Some, though, may have a very light tint.
What’s the Right Deck Stain for My Needs?
I always recommend homeowners obtain a couple of samples to start. Apply two coats of each to very small areas of the deck as a test to properly assess the color and appearance of the different stains before making a purchase. Once applied, the color of a stain often appears differently than expected, so it may or may not blend in well with the grain of the wood.
Also, I recommend checking that the price of the product you choose fits your budget. Keep in mind that higher-priced stains will not necessarily be the longest-lasting. Make sure you are happy with the appearance of the stain and choose an established brand, as you might need to buy more of the product in the future.
My Best Deck Stain Suggestions
I prefer penetrating semi-transparent products with all these different types of products as they allow the wood grain to show. They offer better-than-average UV protection and can be easier to reapply in the future. Penetration is better for oil-based versions than water-based versions. The exceptions for quality semi-transparent penetrating water-based stains would be the Defy Extreme Stains and the Restore-A-Deck Stains.
Want Free Help Choosing Your Deck Stain Type? Ask below in the comments!
See My List of the Best 8 Semi-transparent Deck Stains
What Other Tools Do I Need?
Some of the tools needed to get the job done include:
- Personal protective equipment (PPE), such as eye coverings and gloves.
- Deck cleaner and deck brightener (neutralizer) for prepping the surfaces.
- Hose for rinsing things and hand rags for cleaning up.
- Tarps or plastic for covering nearby vegetation.
- A hammer, drill, screws, and nails for any repairs.
- A bucket with stir sticks.
- A pole sander and hand sander with sandpaper (no finer than 80 grit).
- A pump-style or airless sprayer.
- A roller and roller tray, a stain (paint) pad with a pole, or a speed mop.
- Stain brushes with either natural or synthetic bristles.
How to Apply a Deck Stain
1. Review the Manufacturer’s Instructions
Measure your deck to best determine the proper amount of stain needed, and buy a little extra to ensure you don’t run out. Every product is slightly different, so I always read the manufacturer’s application instructions thoroughly. This helps confirm details such as whether to apply one or two coats, the dry time interval between the coats, and any safety recommendations.
2. Surface Preparation
Begin by removing all furniture and objects from the deck.
Remove any current (existing) stain using a deck stripping product. Remember to keep children and pets away from these and other chemicals. Thoroughly cleanse the surfaces using a wood cleaner, stiff brush, and power washer (if needed).
Apply a wood deck brightening product to neutralize (pH) acidity and prepare the wood pores for optimal absorption. Limit sanding except for very stubborn spots of existing stain, removing splinters, or leveling raised corners using 40 to 60-grit sandpaper. Let the surface dry completely for two days.
3. Apply Stain to One Board at a Time
You may choose to apply stain with a brush, pad, roller, or sprayer. Avoid pump sprayers and stain pads for thicker or solid stains. Begin applying stain to vertical surfaces followed by floors and staircases. Apply stain to a single board at a time completely from end to end while limiting overlap marks.
4. Use a Brush to “Even Out” the Finish
You may “back brush” the stain during the initial application and then use a separate brush to achieve a more uniform appearance.
5. Allow for Penetration and Remove Excess Stain
After the application, allow 20 to 30 minutes for the stain to completely soak into the wood. Wipe any remaining, unabsorbed stain away to avoid blotches.
6. Prevent Exposure to Moisture
Remember the importance of checking the weather forecast before starting for any chances of rain in the next 24 hours and have tarps or plastic on hand to cover the deck—just in case.
Top Oil- Based Stain | Top Water-Based Stain | Top Solid Color Stain | Easiest to Apply Stain |
 |  |  |  |
From: $41.99 | From: $47.99* | From: $65.99* | From: $69.95* |
What is the best product for restoring a 12 yr old composite deck?
See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-composite-decks/
Hi Scott, I appreciate all your work you’ve put into this site – it’s been super helpful. My deck is 25+ years old, cedar, and it hasn’t been stained in over 10 years. It is south facing in Northern IL. I don’t know what stain was last used, but there are currently no signs of it anywhere on the deck boards. After reading almost every article on here, I’m leaning toward a semi-solid stain (not sure on a good color with bluish-gray siding). My plan is to do a light powerwash, then a cleaner/brightener rather than stripper/brightener. Should I use a belt sander on the whole deck at some point in this process? Do these deck boards seem beyond saving? I’ve replaced some bad ones, but for the most part everything is still solid. Thanks for any tips.
Clean and brighten for prep while pressure washing. No need for the stripper. You may need to sand some splinters when down. Semi-solids would a great choice for this older deck.
We are building a deck in central Florida with pressure treated pine. How long should we allow the wood to weather, assuming no big storms? Which stain would be best for our semi tropical climate? And do we need to seal it too?
See here about new wood:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
You do not and cannot apply a sealer over the top of a deck stain. No need as deck stains are sealers as well.
My contractor wants me to purchase a rubber type stain (wood deck around swimming pool)
I see texerized – is that the same? How do I confirm that the stain I purchase will be correct ?
Thank you
I have never heard of a rubberized deck stain.
I have a large deck and this summer I noticed the paint peeling off. I believe this deck was installed 10 years ago but I don’t know if it was stained at the time (it was there when I moved).This is in Perth, Ontario, so cold snowy winters. I called a company to refinish the deck and replace rotten woods. They powerwashed, replaced some boards, flipped other boards up side down, sanded, and are about to paint. They were about to apply a “Behr Premium DeckOver” paint, but I noticed its reviews were pretty bad, that it peels off in not time. I was hoping for something that I don’t need to maintain that often; my main concern is not necessarily the looks of it, but to keep it in good shape and that it lasts a long time with the least amount of maintenance possible. This work wasn’t cheap and I’m not looking forward to doing it for a long time.The picture shows how it looks now; there’s some leftover paint from how it was before, the lighter bards are new pieces, and the darker ones are “cleaned” or flipped and sanded. What kind of paint would you recommend for my case?
You want a solid color deck stain. Not paint or any Behr products. See here:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
I live in CT and have been using Ready Seal which I discovered about 5 years ago to stain my wood railings. It doesn’t last very long though. I had to redo it after two years. I also stumbled upon TWP stain as well applied to my front stairs which seems to last longer (no pics of that). After 2 years these railings below I sprayed with Jobmax solution housewash to kill the black algae and mold, rinsed then reapplied when they dried and they looked good. I tried that this year and the solution didn’t do anything. So after research i used Defy wood cleaner and wood brightener. The cleaner is basically a stripper? Because it removed all the old stain. It turned the wood and dirt into a jelly like consistency after scrubbing with a med/hard bristle brush. It cleaned everything down to the bare wood. I mixed it according to the instructions, 3/4 cup powder to 1 gallon of warm water. Then used the brightener immediately after and the wood looks like fresh cut new again.
My question is, is there an easier way to do this? I just want to remove the light dirt and brighten the starting to gray spots. I don’t want to to this entire scrub/strip process every two years.
I also am switching over from Ready Seal to TWP in hopes it will last longer. Can I use it over Ready Seal with a light sanding or do I need to strip completely?
You will have to strip and brighten if switching to TWP. Only use a deck cleaner if you plan on recoating. They are not designed to just clean off dirt. There is no easy way to just clean dirt off a deck stain without having some potential removal of the deck stain coating.
So what’s the difference between a stripper and the Defy wood cleaner I used? It basically stripped the old finish off it seems. As a side note on vertical surfaces TWP seems to last a LONG time and about 3 years on horizontal surfaces which is about double the time of Ready Seal. I’m switching over to TWP as I run out of Ready Seal. It’s a superior product.
Different chemicals in each product between a stripper and a cleaner. Cleaners can remove old coatings if that old coating is deteriorated.
TWP is much better than Ready Seal when it comes to UV protection
I live in southwestern Pa.
Have a two story PT deck. I have just replaced all the decking boards on the upper deck with KD treated lumber. I have started to do the same on the lower deck underneath. Because of the size of the decks I would like to use a product that will last so I’m not working on these decks yearly. The decks face southeast so they receive full sun, rain , snow through out the year. We had some rot on the lower deck where it was not covered by the upper deck. Not sure if I can use an oil product on the lower deck due to the humid weather we have here in south western Pa and being close to the ground / dont want mold or mildew to rot the deck. Any suggestion are welcome-
Thanks
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Wait until spring. Clean and brighten the new wood. Strip and brighten the old wood that has old stain on it. Use a penetrating stain after:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Hi. Thanks for all the info. Really helpful as I begin a project. Going to put in new deck boards, either cedar or PT. The large deck is completely exposed, all day in the sun, rain, snow in 4 seasons. Do you have a suggestion for semi transparent variety in these conditions? Would transparent hold up? Contractor is going to apply stain to old current framing that is staying. Should this be done in a different stain? Thanks!
Use semi-transparent for all. These are the best options: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
What is the semi transparent color used in above picture, that best stain 2024. Or if you don’t which one I am referring to, the first three photos under semi transparent?
That is IPE wood. You cannot get regular pine or cedar wood to look like those pics. The stain used is Armstrong Clark in one of their 3 hardwood colors.
Recently moved into a house with a neglected deck. Don’t believe it is cedar but maybe some kind of spruce. Is it beyond saving or can we sand and get something like twp 1500 on it?
You can save this without issues. Can you send a close up of the stain on the floors? Trying to see if a solid stain or semi-transparent. Need to know to determine prep and what stain type to use.
This is the stain the old home owners had
Hey Scott, I dont know why my phone won’t let me reply, but the stain is Behr premium semi transparent waterproofing stain and sealer from 4 years ago
Please send a picture of a close up of the stain on the floor, not the bucket. Behr lies about their opacity with their stains and many times it looks like a solid stain, not semi-transparent.
Here you go
Use the Restore A Deck Stain stripper with both additives and pressure washing to remove it:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Sand if needed to remove stubborn spots. Brightener after.
Once prepped, use a penetrating semi-transparent stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Thompson’s water sealer and Flood penetrating wood finish have been recommended for restoring my deck. Yellow pine, no coating left, well cleaned back to wood. Which of those or which other preserving finish would you reccommend? Thank you
Neither, very poor or useless products. You can use the search bar to find reviews on the site for both. Best to use one of the brands in our article. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Do you have any experience, or know, about the Sun Frog deck products. They’re designed for the Pacific Northwest? I’ve used it in the past and wonder how it’s holding up.
Sorry but nothing on our end with these products.
pictures – wood is wet from power washing, not quite that shiny…
Good job on prep. Hopefully you did not over sand. See for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-sanding-a-deck-can-be-an-issue/
What about Benjamin Moore Woodluxe Water based semi-trans? It purports to be a ‘premium’ stain and has ‘advanced’ penetrating formula that older water-based stains did not. I just spent the last 3 weekends stripping, cleaning and power washing and then sanding (drum sander and then hand belt + oribital sanders) my PTSWYP deck to remove years old stain to get it to a decent bare wood surface and am agonizing to determine which is best option – stain, or just seal, water based or oil, etc. I have been waffling back and forth between oil and water and am now leaning towards a premium water based stain as long as it provides good penetration to minimize flaking and have all the pros of water based
Benjamin Moore has never made a quality wood or deck stain. They try but keep failing. I would stay away from their brands. There are only 2 water based stains that I have seen actually penetrate fully. Defy Extreme and Restore-A-Deck Stains.
Thanks for the sanding information, I had not come across that before. I had already went through 4 pads @ 80grit and 2 pads @100 grit supplied with the drum sander I rented. Now going back over with my hand belt sander using 36grit to tackle the worst of the pits and ridges I made from power washing, and 2nd over with 80. Next will be brightener (have already stripped and washed/neutralized before sanding.)
I’m waffling back over to oil based (over water) after reading this your blog, but still with a color stain (natural cedar tone). I like the idea that oil based seems to be superior to water based and I like the idea of it having a sheen (will probably go semi gloss or gloss). I’m thinking high VOC should not be too problematic since it’s an outdoor deck. I have not seen many options in the stores near me for different OB stain brands, mostly big box having behr and BM and Rust-Oleum.
What’s the general opinion about oil based tinted stain versus a clear oil based sealer only?
You cannot have a shine for a deck stain, that leads to peeling and makes removal when it fails very difficult.
Clear sealers will gray in a matter of months: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/will-a-clear-sealer-prevent-graying-on-deck/
Thanks again for the tip, based on this I think we will try to get the TWP 1500 semi-trans as we are in NE PA. Waiting for a window of dry and sunny days (that I can also etch out free time to do it!) – looking forward to not having to strip and sand again!
TWP makes great stains. We have been using them for 30 years.
I have applied two coats of TWP 1500 to raw wood floor and now I would like to apply something that gives it a slight SHEEN. Could you recommend a product that might do this (not Marine Spar Varnish because Im afraid that will flake and peel)?? Thank you
You cannot do this. You cannot top coat over a deck stain and you cannot add a shiny coating to any exterior flooring. This will lead to product failure and peeling. It will also become a huge pain to fix by heavy power sanding.
Ok. Thank you . Would it add aything to put a third coat over it?
No. Adding to much stain means it cannot penetrate fully and that leads to premature failure. It is not supposed to have a shine.
Ok. Thank you so much
Hi, I have a 16 year old cedar deck. It gets morning sun, no mold or mildew. Last October I washed it with oxiclean, sanded and stained with Cabot semi-solid. The stain did not last the winter. I had used it in the past but never get more than 1 year of good results. I live in Maine. What do you recommend? Thank you
You have two options. Heavy stripping and sanding down to the bare wood so you can use a proper penetrating semi-transparent stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
or prep and recoat for a solid stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Thank you. I will go with the second option and solid stain. Do you think the RAD coastal gray will blend/cover any stain that is still intact after the prep or should I stay with the Cabot and go to solid instead of semi-solid?
The RAD solid stain will cover it but you will need the 2 coats.
Thank you