This post was updated on April 25, 2023
Staining A New Deck in 2023?
Every spring, we get hundreds of questions about when to stain a new deck, wood fence, or exterior of a wood home. This is the second most popular question on DeckStainHelp.com, so we decided to create an updated and comprehensive guide to staining a new deck, including some of the best stain brands and types of deck stains to use on your new wood. But as always, if you still have questions, we’re here to help! Just post a comment below and we’d be glad to assist you.
Best New Wood Deck Stain
Best Applying New
Wood Deck Stain
Best New Wood Deck Stain
Months to Weather New Wood:
3 months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors.
Months to Weather New Wood:
2-3 months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid.
Months to Weather New Wood:
4 - 12 months for all TWP Series and Colors.
Should I Stain New Decking?
Yes. Staining your deck will help to protect the wood from the elements. However, it’s important to know when to stain a new deck to ensure that the stain absorbs properly.
How Long Should You Wait Before You Stain a New Deck?
The best time to stain a deck will depend on the type of wood that your deck is made of.
- If your deck was made with new, smooth wood, you’ll need to wait at least three months before staining your deck.
- Rough-sawn wood can be stained right away, as long as it is clean and the wood is dry. If you are unsure if you have rough-sawn wood, post a picture in the comment area with some basic info about your project and we’ll help you figure it out.
- Kiln-dried wood and KDAT wood will need one to two months before you can stain it.
Weathering and Your New Wood Deck: Why Wait to Stain a Deck?
Almost all new exterior wood will need to be weathered before you apply deck stain. Many homeowners believe that you weather the wood to reduce the moisture content of the wood, but while this is important, it’s not the main reason you will need to weather the deck. The porosity of the wood is the main concern: Fresh wood needs time to become porous enough to allow the stain to soak into the wood. If the stain can’t soak in properly, it will dry on top of the wood, leading to premature failure of the stain.
What Happens if You Stain a Deck Too Soon?
If you try to stain new wood too soon, the stain won’t take. The wood needs to be porous so that the stain can soak in and reflect the color that you chose. If the stain doesn’t take, the color will fade in the sun and wash out in the rain.
What Happens if You Stain Pressure-Treated Wood Too Soon?
Like other types of wood, you can’t stain pressure-treated wood too soon. If you do, you will lose the stain, and your deck won’t be the color you were hoping for. Even if the stain doesn’t wash off, it can dry on blotchy, and you won’t be happy with the result. The same applies to Cedar and Redwood Decks.
When Should You Not Stain a Deck?
Don’t stain a deck when it’s wet or damp. The best time to stain a deck is after it’s properly weathered and when it’s completely dry.
Tips for Staining a New Deck
These new deck staining tips will work for all wooden exteriors, such as decks, cedar-framed homes, log cabins, wood fences, and other structures.
Prep the Wood for Staining
After the weathering process, it’s vital that you prep the wood. When wood is left exposed to sunlight, the UV radiation will turn the wood slightly gray or white. This oxidation of the wood will need to be removed. The new smooth wood may also have a mill glaze on it that will need to come off. Using a good deck cleaner will remove the mill glaze, oxidation, and dirt. After this step, follow up with an exterior wood brightener. We like the Restore-A-Deck cleaner/brightener kits for this prep.
Do You Need to Sand the New Wood?
Do not sand new wood unless you need to remove the “wood fuzzies.” If the wood has raised fibers after prepping that make it look furry, sand with 60-to-80-grit paper, then use the brightener after the sanding to help open the wood’s pores. Rinse well with a pressure washer when done.
Follow Up With Another Coat
Be prepared to apply a maintenance coat of your preferred product to your newly stained deck in 12 to 18 months. The first time staining new wood typically does not last as long as the second or subsequent coatings.
Expert-Recommended Deck Stain Brands for New Decks
Armstrong-Clark deck stains can be used on new wood and deck materials such as pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, IPE, and exotic hardwoods.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Two to three months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid colors
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.5/10
Restore-A-Deck wood stain can be applied to dry or damp wood. It can be used on new wood and deck materials such as pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, IPE, and exotic hardwoods.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Three months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.625/10
TWP 100 Pro Series stains are only allowed in 35 states; use TWP 1500 stain if you’re in a low-VOC state. TWP 100 Pro Series stain can be used on new wood and deck materials including pressure-treated pine, and cedar.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Four to 12 months
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.69/10
How to Stain a New Wood Deck, Step-by-Step
Questions? Let Us Help
If you still have questions about when to stain a new deck and how to go about it, please ask below and we’d be glad to assist you.
As an article and comment contributor to the site, Scott has been around the pressure washing industry since attending college. In 1993 he started his first company called Oakland Pressure Wash specializing in exterior pressure washing and deck staining. That company evolved into OPW L.L.C. shortly thereafter concentrating more on exterior wood and deck restoration. Scott and his Deck Cleaning Michigan company have restored over 10,000 decks in the Metro Detroit area since the early years. He has become an authority in the deck restoration industry and has contributed to numerous wood restoration forums and informative sites.
All the products he suggests through this site are sold through online sites and in retail stores, allowing the consumer to choose their own means of purchase. Scott’s eCommerce sites do sell many top brands he endorses and if you appreciate any of the help he has offered then feel free to purchase from one of them.
Hello! I have my deck boards purchased and will be installing them myself. I have used Thompson’s WaterSeal Waterproofing Wood Protector (Clear) for the cedar boards that frame my screen porch, and assumed that would be a good option for the deck. However, I began researching how to best apply (eg, all sides of the boards BEFORE installing?) and realized there are many other considerations and also varied approaches to this kind of project.
First: your site is the first I have read recommending weathering the wood, first. However, how does that allow application of all sides of the boards, if they have already been installed?
Second: for a clear sealant that will look the most natural, what product do you recommend? Thompson’s hasn’t been mentioned in the couple websites I’ve looked at; is it much different than the ones you recommend here?
You do need to weather the wood and prep. Only the exposed wood needs to be stained. No need to do all sides. You must have a tinted stain for UV protection. Clears will gray naturally. Thompsons is useless.
Hello! we are working on staining our deck that was installed last summer. Have cleaned and rinsed, let dry. We are using restore a deck and the color goes on great however once it dries it looks very faded and splotchy. I know it is recommended only one coat; but sure does look like it needs two. The first day i did half the deck; no misting with water .. after asking a question on the forum; it was recommended to use the misting method prior to applying. It was definitely easier to apply but i am seeing no difference. Please advise .. see pics below.. the darker few boards are the ones with the stain just applied and the rest was done yesterday. Thanks much!
Did you brighten the wood after teh cleaning and if so, did you rinse it properly after? I think you are having this issue:
thanks for the quick reply!
we did not use the brightener. We cleaned and rinsed twice – was hoping that was enough ?
thanks for the quick reply! we did not use the brightener. We cleaned and rinsed twice – was hoping that was enough ?
What cleaner did you use? Something is causing a reaction. Could be a missed step or a incompatible cleaner
we used Scott’s outdoor multipurpose cleaner, rinsed twice.
If it is some sort of reaction what do you recommend we do to remedy? Wait until next year to strip, clean, and restain or take some steps this year?
You definitely had a reaction. To fix you will need to remove it and start over. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener for prep and both stripper additives. Do it now or next year but do not add more stain in the meantime.
Thanks much for the help and will do! No Restore a Deck cleaner step this round?
No need for the cleaner.
I installed a new red cedar deck last fall and am ready to stain with oil-based stain now in May. I had a soft sided hot tub sitting on the new decking all winter and now there is a “non-weathered” spot where it sat. I already cleaned the whole deck with a deck cleaner that was to remove dirt and mill glaze (contained salicylic acid) and that didn’t help the spot. What additional prep can I do to blend the non-weathered spot with the rest of the wood? Or maybe it will go away when stained? Thanks.
You have not removed all the oxidation. Try Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit and redo the prep. If you can see it when wet with water, then you will see it when stained. Also, if the tub is going back into the same spot then who cares?
Where might you rate Sherman-Williams deck stain products?
Do a search for Sherwin Williams and Super Deck in our search bar at the top. Click the search icon.
Can I wait a couple of weeks or more to apply a 2nd coat on a solid color Behr stain
It should be okay as long as it is clean.
Hi, I read somewhere on the internet and I can’t find it now, but it said to wait “x amount of time” before putting furniture, grill, etc. on a new deck. Is there a certain amount of time after putting down a new pressure treated wood deck floor (old framing was used) that one should wait before putting heavy items on it? Thank you.
does the 3 month rule apply for staining pressure treated decking that was stored outside at the suppliers warehouse for approx 10 months?
Yes. The wood has to be installed to properly weather.
Last year I stained my pine deck with Armstrong-Clark Stain: Semi-Solid. I also attached 2 2×4 – 10 foot pressure treated pine posts to be used to secure a sun sail over our deck that I did not stain. I am ready to stain them this year and have 2 questions: Do I need to use a deck cleaner and brightener first? (RESTORE-A-DECK CLEANER SYSTEM) If I do will either cleaner or brightener spot my deck that I stained last year?
I also just added another post recently, do I really have to wait at least a month to stain if the moisture meter registers dry?
Yes, you have to prep the new wood. No, do not get any of the prep on the stained surfaces. The new post has to weather for 1 year prior to using the AC semi-solid colors.
We got an Alaskan yellow cedar deck installed last September. The majority of the deck has now greyed and has some fuzziness. Some, especially under the porch, is in good shape with a yellow tone and no grey fuzzy.
I’ve read all over this site that it’s better to strip than sand, but have also seen that it might be necessary to sand off fuzzy layer. Do you recommend a clean-sand-brighten-powerwash-stain process? Or will the clean cause the fuzzy layer to come off with the power washer?
Anything special to consider, using Alaskan yellow cedar?
I already bought 5gal of Penofin semi transparent stain last year, so this year we will use that. I notice it’s not on your recommendation list (only found your site now), do you have any feedback on it?
Clean and brighen for prep. If you get and fuzzies after that, see here:
Penofin turns dark or black after a year or two. We would not suggest it:
We have a new home with a wrap around pine deck/railings/posts which were installed one year ago this month (April). The decking is beautiful pine from Madison Wood in Madison, VA (not one knot in all of the decking.) We have read about the recommended deck stains, but would like your advice for our situation since the porch is now one year old. Thanks!!
Try the Restore A Deck products for prep and stain. Clean and brighten the wood for prep.
Thanks for your informative and easy to use website! I will be using your expertise to help me stain my new redwood fence. My question is, when the carpenters installed my fence, they drew pencil lines to align something, like screws. Will these show when I stain over them? If not, what’s a good cure for these pencil lines? The surface is very rough sawn and even fuzzy in some spots. Thanks again!
Yes, it will show so you should use a deck cleaner and pressure washing to prep the fence.
New redwood deck installed two weeks ago, live in the SF Bay area- areas where screws were inserted is rough , and could hurt a bare foot. Also some paper stains of blue from the lumber yard . How long to wait til it gets a light sand ? and stain ? Bookmarked your site for when the time is ready
Do not sand for prep and the rest is explained in the above article as far as weathering and prep before staining.
I’m not sure how long to wait to stain this pressure treated wood? I live in Florida. It was done being built jan 7. So I wait a few months or can I do it now?
As the article explains, you need to wait, prep, and then stain. How long to wait depends on the brand you end up choosing.
Will be staining deck railing made of rough western red cedar. Really just want to protect and enhance the natural wood tone/color/grain, not really interested in changing the color. Contractor recommended SW Woodscapes but I’m reading about TWP on your site. Recommendation? If TWP, which one??? The oil based cedar tone?
You must add color if you want UV protection from graying. Try the TWP 100 or 1500 Series. They are both oil-based.
Hi Scott, love this site and SO glad I found it. I bought 100-12foot long 5/4 cedar (maybe red cedar) from a local sawmill here in North AL. I planed down one side of the cedar to remove the saw marks and roughness with my Dewalt planer – hopefully that was not a mistake. I plan to leave the sides and bottom rough. I have not installed the boards on the deck yet. Should I treat the cedar bottom/sides before installing it? Did I screw up by planing the boards? They look gorgeous (PINK!) and would like to preserve some of that color. I sent my wife last night to the Big Box Store and got 5 gallons of Thompsons – I will be returning and getting the stains you recommend instead. Do I need to wait a few months (as in your comments here) to coat the bottom/sides. What about the top? I would like to router the edges and will be using Camo fastening system to hold it down… not sure whether to put screws on both sides of each board or just one… Thanks for a fantastic site!!! Adrian
No need to stain the undersides. Weather and prep the exposed wood before staining as the article indicates.
You have made some excellent suggestions to help me with my deck questions. The top 3 solid color stains are not available in any retail store in my area. That said, if I choose to purchase the best local solid color latex stain, can you please recommend one generally found in the big box stores ? I’m afraid that the freight charge I would incur by ordering 4-5 gallons of the best from your company, would be outrageous. Thanks in advance for any asst you can offer .
Flood or Defy would be the best option for a local solid stain. Nothing of any good will be found in a big box store.
Gallons do ship free though for the RAD solid stain: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-solid-stain.html
It is the last days of october and I just finished my cedar deck. Wearher is now cold and wet. Shoild I wait until spring to seal or stain my deck. No warm days to come.
I’m told that some clear stains have a yellow look after staining. I definitely do not want that. Your thoughts? Thanks
Some clear coatings are actually tinted for UV protection. A true clear will not provide any UV protection from graying. It has to be tinted.
I have an Amish built shed that just got built this summer. I placed my order in may and it was completed sometime in early September. The shed was delivered September 21. I believe they said it’s made with hemlock wood and it’s definitely rough cut. They also mill their own wood so I’m assuming it’s very freshly milled wood. I live in PA and I wasn’t sure if I should stain the shed now before winter hits or if it’s best to wait till Spring? I don’t want the shed to turn a darker color from being too weathered but I’m not sure how long something like that even takes.
Thanks in advance! I appreciate your input!
You can do it now since it is rough cut.
I live in MD and just had all of my deck wood replaced (Oct 2022) should I wait until spring before staining the new wood ?
My deck was just built Sept 15,2022 . Pressure treated wood.When should I have it stained. Iam allowed transparent color
Hello, follow the directions in the above article for new wood. Next spring would be best tp prep and stain.
We replaced our pool deck in March, we stained with ready seal two coats it in April. We live in Florida; the deck is so faded now some places don’t even look like it was stained. We are ready to stain again but want to use the right product. What do we have to do for pre work and what stain would you recommend?
Typical of Ready Seal to not last: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ready-seal-wood-and-deck-stain-review/
Strip and brighten for prep. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Stains.
We are replacing old cedar deck with new cedar deck boards and aluminum railing. Live in Minneapolis area. Can I use a deck wash to prepare the new cedar for stain or do I need to let it weather over the winter and apply stain next spring? Would like to get done this fall, but the weather may be an issue.
You will need to wait until Spring.
Our deck was installed in mid July, so mid October is just barely 3 months after installing. Also we are not sure what kind of wood we have…the paperwork just says “treated lumber.”
What kind of wood are we dealing with?
Would it be better to wait until spring to stain in warmer weather? Would the wood be ok over winter in Ohio?
We are thinking of staining the horizontals (deck boards, steps) and painting the verticals (railings, stair backs) white with exterior paint. Any tips or advice on that combo?
Thank you for any help you can provide.
Do it in the Spring. See here for two toned tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
We just replaced the deck boards with clear heart redwood. The boards have been outside for about a month or so. Since we are at the beginning of October, I’m afraid to trust the weather to hold. Do we wait until next spring/summer to stain or get it done? We are in the Sierra foothills.
Next Spring is correct.
I have some lumber that I bought JUL 2021, intending to build a project before winter and stain in fall. The wood has been sitting in my garage on a flat bed trailer (off of the ground away from moisture) since then. I’m building the wood planters and the fencing around them to block off an area from dog use.
1) Is it just that the wood needs to dry of moisture for aging or does it need sunlight as well?
2) How can I tell if it is ready for stain?
I would prefer to build and stain quickly because I have dogs and they’ll pee all over the wood, so I would think it’s better to get stain on it before they start doing all that.
1. It has to weather outside.
2. It’s not ready.
The pee will cause the stain to prematurely fail.
Hi. We live in Pennsylvania and had a new deck built with pressure treated wood in May. How long do we need to wait to stain it? Is it too long to wait until next May? Thanks. Kathie
You can do it now or in spring.
Thanks so much
Hi Scott –
I’m building a new deck in the Seattle area. I’ll be decking with Yellow Balau, and was thinking of using Ipe oil to treat it.
I’m not sure how long the wood had been sitting in the warehouse before I picked it up. Would it make the most sense to install the decking and allow it to weather until Spring for the first coat? Or should I do that before the rains come? Does your advice above apply to hardwoods like Yellow Balau as well?
It has to weather outside. Storing in a warehouse does not count. Spring would be best to prep and stain.
New kiln dried cedar wood decks at my Midwest house as of today. I appreciate the natural color but want to protect my investment the best way possible. What if any should be the waiting period before treatment and what treatment/product/procedure do you recommend? 30 day waiting period may work but after that possibly the weather may not cooperate. Is it best to wait till spring or try and treat the wood soon?
See some tips here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-kdat-deck/
Thank you for that information. if we did a light sanding now will that takeoff the mill glaze? And what product do you recommend oil based or water based? I’m still a little confused if “stain” allows for wood to be natural. Or we are to use just a sealer or a product that is both or another option, just oil like linseed? Is Marine grade a good idea or not?
Thanks for your help.
No, do not sand, That makes it less absorbent. Try Restore A Deck Stains or TWP Stains. Both highlight the wood grain based on the color you choose. Do not use a Marine finish.
We are staining/sealing a new cedar deck. It was built 1 year ago. We live in Northeast MN so get plenty of snow. We cleaned the deck with a cleaner (also power washed) and got some fuzzies so I lightly sanded using 80 grit sandpaper with an orbital sander. This was before I read on your site not to sand newer decks. Do we need to wait to stain now–which for us would put it off until the spring? What would be your advice.
No, you can stain after sanding. Final prep with a wood brightener and light pressure wash to open the wood pores and then apply one coat of the stain.
Some stains / sealants claim they last 5 years, 7 years, 25 years or even lifetime. Do they really?
No, of course not. Basically lying. Read this: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
So here is my issue….I had to sand off semi solid old stain to get ready for the new semi transparent. I have a huge deck and this project has taken me all summer. Due to the elements, my oldest sanded planks are now darker than the fresh. Can I just stain it all? Do I have to sand again?power wash? Not sure what to do
Clean and brighten all to even it out after the sanding.
We used doig fir decking and treated wood.for.the frame…it rook about 3 wks to build bc we are slow…how.long do we wait.to seal it qith thompsons? Also can we ise our deck while waiting? Ie deck furniturr, gazebo…etc?
Thompsons is useless, do not use it. As for answering your question about when to stain/seal, that is in the article above. Yes, you can use your deck while waiting to prep and stain.
This is my first time building a new deck an fence using the Sienna Brown pressure treated lumber. I live in Toronto, the fence has been up for two months an I’m just installing the deck floor this weekend, should I wait until next year to apply transparent water proofing with stain, I don’t want the wood to turn grey. What’s the best sealant stain you recommend. My parents used Behr on their new fences 10 yrs ago with recoating every two yrs an they still look great. I heard a lot of complains about Behr??? Thks
Yes, wait until next Spring. It is okay if it grays some as that is why you have to prep with a clear and wood brightener. Behr is a very poor stain. Try Armstrong Clark or TWP 200 Series.
Just used Restore a deck cleaner and brightener, deck is clean and looks great. Have 5 gallons of Armstrong-Clark stain. Minnesota humidity is 90 degrees overnight and early morning and 55 to 65 degrees by noon. Is it OK to stain in the afternoon with the overnight humidity so high?
I have rough-sawn oak I am using to build a deck. There is some mildew on a few of the boards from being stacked. What’s the best way to get it off? I’ve tried Borax and water with no luck. Is there a stain you recommend for this type of wood? Thank you!
Clean and brighten the wood to prep and remove the mildew. Stain with TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Scott, we moved into our new home May 2022. Home was a spec home so not sure how long back deck had been built. We have not stained yet. Have been out of town working. Returned home and deck looks like it might be mildewing. I have never had a deck so this before. Deck gets morning sun, afternoon and evening. Suggestions??
Just prep and stain this fall. Try the Restore A Deck prep and stain.
Thanks for the article, Scott. We sanded our cedar deck almost 2 months ago but the weather was pretty uncooperative. On and off rain, then us being away for a time. We’ve used the deck as normal in its natural state. I know we have some work to clean it up, but is 2 months too long to wait without resanding?
No, and sanding, in general, is not suggested as it limits the stain’s ability to soak in. Just clean and brighten for prep and then stain.
Before seeing your website I washed my 8 month old cedar deck with a mixture of bleach, TSP, and water in preparation for staining. This left varying degrees of white stain marks all over my deck (especially around wood knots) that are very difficult to remove. If I stain over will it show through? Should I sand it off? What is this caused from? At this stage wishing I just left the deck alone to naturally weather……comments?
The cleaning mixture I used also was fairly aggressive on the wood fiber creating quite a bit of pulp slurry that stuck to everything. The ratio of bleach, TSP, and water seemed pretty typical (average) of all my research.
See attached photos.
That is oxidation that was not removed in your first attempt. You should go over it again with a quality deck cleaner (while pressure washing) and then a wood brightener. You may want to buff the floor after to remove any fuzzies and splinters.
We just built a new deck with pressure treated lumber and the boards have many chips and splinters sticking up in areas that I want to sand smooth. Some pieces might require wood filler due to the size of the gouges. Is this ok to do and should I spot stain those areas until I can stain the whole deck? Thank you.
Lightly hand sand if needed. Never use a wood filler on a deck if using a semi-transparent stain. See here.
HI – I’m fed up with Behr semi transparent deck stain. It’s actually more of a solid stain and looks as lousy and exactly like the pictures on your review page. Peeling and ugly. The deck is cedar 5/4 x 6 and also 2 x6 on the upper part. Total area close to 1500 sq ft. I’m currently sanding it and using pretty rough sandpaper – like 20 grit – with an orbital sander. I tried less griity sandpaper but it was taking too long and going through a lot more paper. The 20 grit bites better but it’s still slow going. I’m about halfway through sanding and it’s taken about 12 hours of sanding so far. The deck went up about 10 years ago and some parts have been replaced. My question is do I need to apply any other agents or conditioners before staining ? The wood is well aged. I understand the wood needs to be dry as well. Thanks
Cleaner and brightener after sanding to help open up the wood grain. Use one of these stains after: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Just installed a new, western red cedar dock at our cottage in southern Ontario, Canada. Western exposure… so it gets sun from about noon on.
When the cedar gets wet, there is no beading etc and it looks just like the pics in your video of “ready to stain”… but then I read that we should wait and have to use a brightener etc. so I’m confused.
We want a clear stain as we like the weathered gray.
1) can we stain now? Without having to weather it?
2) what is the best penetrating oil based product to use?
No, you cannot stain now. See the article above.
TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark for Ontario.
thanks Scott! I really appreciate your help!
Here’s the picture of the new redwood fence. Rough hewn?
It is rough sawn. You can stain it now. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Hi, I just put in two days ago a new redwood fence, looks roughhewn to me, picture attached. Would like to stay in right away if possible. Want to prevent any and all UV fading, hate that gray brown color. Any advice for top two or three semi transparent single application redwood stains?
PS thought I posted this comment/question somewhere else but I can’t find it now so apologies if this is duplicated
We had a wood deck built last May 2021. We haven’t stained it yet. How long is too long to wait to do it? Thank you!
Prep and stain now, not too late: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Hello. We had our large deck by the Delaware shore replaced this week with#1pressure treated wood by a reputable contractor. We want to use a solid or semi solid stain using one of the top rated stains you recommend. The three month mark for us would then be the end of October or we would have to wait through the winter and do the staining in the spring. Do you see a downside to going through a Delaware winter? Would the cleaning process be more intense?
See tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Next Spring is okay.
New cedar fence being installed this week.
When can I stain with Armstrong semi trans stain ?
And do I need to prep ?
After 3 months and then clean and brighen for prep.
North facing deck in lower Michigan. 21 yrs old. Treated 1×6.
Original stain likely solid as peels and flakes every year. No absorption. Olympic Max solid last @10 years to spot or restain all yearly.
Currently replacing about half rotted or cracked boards. Can I strip remaining old solid stained boards? Sand ? So match new. Recoat all with brightener and semi trans ?
You cannot strip a solid stain fully so you will have to sand it all off if you want to go semi-transparent.
Thank You. Looks like I’ll replace most boards (about half replaced as of today) and try stripping and sanding the rest (were olympic max solid stain), then brightener and semi trans with “restore a deck” you recommend. A lot of my 21 year old boards peel every year, are soft and rot at ends where there is a trim piece that covers the cut ends and I think traps water. Replaced several last year which not peeling yet. 3 Pics attached. Given condition, any thoughts vs. just power wash, brighten and do another solid? appreciate your site and expertise.
Try to get all the solid off the flooring by power sanding. Do a two-toned deck: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
Thx. At this point after 21 yrs I’ll keep replacing until I run out of energy, then sand the @ 10 that replaced and solid stained last year. Wait 60 days. Brighten all and semi stain.
From my pics and your articles, sounds like I didn’t wait long enough and prep well originally even if I did start with semi t, and solid recoating was bad choice over the years for Michigan flooring.
If you can see routed spindles in pics, any local Oakland County sources you like that might have them?
No idea on the spindles. They stopped doing those years ago.
Thx. Thinking I can sand many of 21 yr old boards rather than replace, or is that about the time to replace in michigan? Also, if I read correctly you recommend not using solid stains for flooring in michigan…too likely to peel after just couple years?
Penetrating semi-transparent stains are better for MI and will be easy to maintain down the road.
I see a lot of articles and questions about how soon after cleaning and brightening you can start staining. My question is what is the longest you can wait between the cleaning/brightening/sanding stage and staining? I ask because I’m having a hard time buying my stain and I already did the prep work. I didn’t realize my existing container of stain was old.
Daytime temps are between 85 and 93 right now. The porch is on the northern side of the house. It’s been fairly cool at night. Covered porch, two stories, has previously been stained using a semi-transparent stain. Thanks!
Try to stain within 2 weeks of prep. If longer, lightly reclean again.
Thank you so much.
Would this same advice apply if I had to wait up to 2 months? It’s doubtful it will take that long to get the product. But just in case.
Full redo of prep if 2 months.
We have an old (installed around 1950-1960) covered deck. It is north facing and the wood is like an interior wood floor. This is in the front range of Colorado. Someone once said they thought it was redwood but I’m not so sure. It is currently painted with a couple of layers. We intend on sanding it down to bare wood again and re-finishing it. We had hoped to whitewash it but all the products to do that seem to be interior based. Should we treat it like any other deck and sand it down, wait 3 months and then stain it?
Sand it all off with 60-80 grit, clean and brighten after, apply one coat of penetrating stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/