New and Old Deck Boards
There are many reasons why you would have a mix of new and old deck boards but it can be a common situation. The most frequent reason is that some of the boards needed replaced due to decay or wood rot while other board were still in good condition. It is also very common for a deck owner to protect the deck with a stain once all the repairs have been made. The dilemma is that new boards and old boards look very different when they are stained.
To understand why this happens may help you to minimize the problem. Once old deck boards weather the top layer of wood fibers begin to gray and become soft. Newer deck boards are denser and are very hard. The older boards will absorb more deck stain and appear much darker than the new denser deck boards which appear lighter.
To better blend new and old deck boards, it is necessary to wash the entire deck. Use a good wood cleaner and a pressure washer to remove any dirt, mold, mildew, and graying from the older deck boards. The newer deck boards will normally have mill glaze on them which can prevent good stain penetration. Use the same method to clean all the new boards as well to remove any mill glaze.
Cleaning the entire deck in this manner will also help the new coat of deck stain perform better. A clean wood surface prepped correctly will ensure better performance, coverage, and lasting protection.
After cleaning the wood, apply a wood brightener to the deck. A wood brightener will lighten all the older darker boards and open the wood pores of the newer deck boards for better stain penetration. This step can help a lot when trying to blend new and old deck boards.
It can also help to sand the boards once the deck is clean and dry. Sanding the old wood boards will remove additional soft wood fibers to create a harder surface. Sanding newer already dense boards will have the opposite effect and soften the fibers up a little and remove any mill glaze that cleaning did not.
In addition to these steps for blending new and old deck boards, using a quality semi-transparent deck stain will help. Follow these prepping and staining tips and your newly repaired deck will not only be safer, it will definitely look better as well.
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52 Comments on "How to Blend New and Old Deck Boards"
We have spent weeks and lots of money getting solid stain off the deck. Finally done. We added an addition 5 years ago to a 10 year old deck after solid stain removed the newer side is still very much lighter. We have stained it thinking we could just add mote stain to newer side to make it darker. This has only made it redder than the other side we used dark walnut transparent stain. I don’t want to go through the stripping process again! Are there anyway to blend this with out solid stain or redoing?
Post a picture please.
Are you seeing this pic
No way to blend this with a semi-transparent stain at this point. Natural weathering and a recoat in a year or so and should blend then.
what if i mix new boards and old boards , wash it, then solid color stain it? would that work better? Thanks.
Solid color stains will blend better but they can be prone to peeling.
I wish I had found this great site LAST weekend! I have a redwood deck of unknown age previously stained with a very dark purplish opaque stain. I pressure washed. The stain stayed in the few shady areas and in knots of the wood. I took out my belt sander to fix those areas (35 grit). The deck looks gorgeous. But after reading this site – oops! – What should I do now before staining? Or just PW, Brighten, stain?
Second, when do you know to replace the boards? I have 6 with minor surface cracks that go down about 1/4″. All are still as solid as their neighbors. And if I should replace, should I age the whole deck? THANKS for the help!
The boards sound like they do not need replacing. As for the stain, the only way to effectively remove a solid opaque stain is to sand it all off.
Just installed this new step and it’s raining for about a week before I installed. Should I wait until everything dries up to try to match the older boards or does it not matter? Also should I pressure wash everything then try to stain the older boards too? Thanks!
When to stain the new wood really depends on the stain brand you are using for the rest of the deck. I would suggest reading their directions. New wood, in general, should season and be prepped:
Have a treated deck, already stripped and used brightener… But looks like I should have replaced the rotted boards first oops…I was thinking of sanding the old boards to see if they would lighten up more(I prefer transparent stain and the color dif between new and old is still significant) so would I have to re brighten the deck?
Sanding will not lighten up the boards much or at all. You will have a slight difference between the new boards and the old boards no matter what the first time staining until the new boards become more absorbent.
I have an older deck that will need about 20% replacement of the deck boards. Is there a way to tell if they were PT or Cedar 2 X 6 boards? If PT, how to prep and stain to match old wood?
If pressure treated, it will most likely have a \”greenish\” hue on the inside if cut. Cedar has a light orange/red color and the smell is more aromatic if cut.
I have a deck that is all messed up, the whole thing needs to be sanded, stain stripped, and some boards definitely need to be replaced. Is this the correct order of operations:
1. Replace Boards
2. Stain strip
3. Sand (What grit? I have a power sander and brush, and was thinking for the more damaged poles and railings, to use the power sander, and for the furred deck boards, to use the brush.)
4. Brighten
5. Refinish/stain/everything else (I'll worry about this at a later date)
Yes that is correct.
Three new boards added to replace rotten ones. Deck has already had every thing done to it before new boards were added. Now a problem. What to do to the three boards to blend them in to old deck that will be acceptable. No thought was put into this issue when the decision to replace the boards due to safety issues.
Try to blend with a semi-solid color. Use Armstrong Clark stains. Prep well first.
Since I just found this article today, I was wondering if I need to go back and do the deck cleaner when I used a pressure washer and sanding the old boards.I did nothing to the new boards yet. Can I just sand them like the rest of the deck and then do the brightener or go back and follow your suggestions? It's been a lot of work sanding if I can get the same effect as the cleaner and then move on to the brightener–would be great news! Thanks!
Could you reckoned a deck brightener brand for me? Thanks for all the help too.
Restore A Deck products.
Since you already started to sand it would be best to sand all so you will have an even appearance when staining. Do apply the brightener after the sanding. Rinse well with water.
I have a cypress ceiing in my den that we put up 31 years ago. The ceiling also had box built cypress beams, which we recently removed. We whitewashed the ceiling and it is beautiful except for where the beams were. That area won't blend with the rest of the ceiling no matter what we do. Also, there is a dark line that seems to outline where the beams were. It is a slight line but we can't get rid of it. We have tried sanding, that made the differences show up more. We tried stripper, denatured alcohol, etc and nothing we do blends the two. Any help would be greatly appreciated. We are trying to find a solution other than having to spend a fortune to put new beams back up to cover the discolored wood.
You will not be able to remove this discoloration or get it all to blend.
I am staining my deck with 1501 cedartone. Some boards are a nice golden color and some are dull greyish after the application. The deck was powerwashed three weeks ago. Why do you think there is such a noticeable difference.
The wood itself is the issue, not the stain.
I am doing the final sanding on a cedar deck. Some of the boards have been replaced. The total deck has been sanded with a 60 grit. I have three questions:
1. what grit should I use for the final sanding?
2. do I still need to use the restore a deck products since I have removed the previous stain on the old boards?
3. my preference is to use a brush, do you have any other suggestions?
I will be using the Armstrong Clark Amber Stain
Thanks
1. 60-80 grit
2. Yes that would help the stain to absorb better.
3. Brush or stain pads for exterior wood.
I am trying to restore a 20 year old cedar deck (2×4). I have used a stripper and a power washer (turned down to about 1500 PSI) to remove the layers of old staing, mildew and crud. I'm having to also replace some of the boards due to rot. I have found some weathered old cedar boards at a used building supply store. The boards look very porous and grainy so I'm thinking of renting a drum floor sander to smooth out the deck. Should I still use a cleaner before I stain after I sand? BTW, I'm going to apply TWP 100 natural cedar semi transparent.
Thanks, I thought so. Someone told me the cleaner would prepare the wood to receive the stain better. I going to use Behr Premium Wood Cleaner. Is that okay?
After the sand it would be best to use the cleaner.
what is the best way to get semi-transparent stain off the vertical spindles (my are 1 inch square by 3 feet)?
Thanks!
John
Deck stripper and pressure wash off. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper or HD80 Stain stripper. Brighten the wood when done.
i have an old redwood fence that I'm attaching a new redwood trellis/posts. I was advised to use a semi transparent stain and I am planning on using the Arborwood brand but don't know what stain is going to match them both. I want something along the cedar or natural color. Do I need to buy two different colors of stain or will one work? I am getting it pressure washed and could put a brightener to it if necessary. any suggestions?
FYI. you might want to read our reviews and consumer comments on the Arborcoat: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/benjamin-moore-arbor…
Clean and or strip to make sure all wood is clean and free of any old coatings. Brighten the wood when done. It will not be exactly the same but hopefully close.
What grade of sandpaper would you use to sand old and new wood?
60 grit.
Question – Blending old and new deckboards. Undecided on final product. Completed cleaning of deck floor and stripping of old, oil-based stain that was mostly on the spindles. Next up: first sanding, then a brightening product. Haven't used a power sander before, but can rent one pretty cheap. Can an amateur power sander handle a heavy-duty sander without making a grievous, irreversible mistake? My deck nails/screws are countersunk fairly well, so I think I can go across them with no issues — at least, lightly. But how skilled to do you have to be to sand the entire floor evenly with no bad cuts?
You should be okay with a power sander. Just do not gauge the wood by trying to hard in certain areas.
Mixing new red cedar with old redwood. Should I sand before/after brightening and what grit sandpaper do you recommend for the new cedar and old redwood?
Sand first and brighten after. Rinse wood well with water. 80 or 60 grit paper.
Would it make sense to sand the New wood with a rougher grit (e.g. 60) to soften the fibers and the Old wood with a smoother grit (80) to harden the fibers? I was thinking this would help equalize the absorption since the old wood absorbs like a sponge and it lays on top of the new wood after sanding both samples with 100 grit.
Also, the new wood was laid 2 weeks ago and I cleaned/brightened 1 week ago. Should I wait and let the wood age before I sand and re-brighten or should I just sand and stain it now?
That will not equal it out. If you sand use the same grit for all. Have you read this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I have a 6 year old deck, this will be my 3rd time staining, there are sections of the deck that the stain has peeled off. In the past I used a transparent stain, this time I believe the better road is to use solid stain. My question is after I power wash the deck what prep work do I need to complete to get one solid smooth colour on the whole deck. Also can you recommend a solid stain brand that will last more then one year.
Not sure what you mean about complete. Look at Flood solid color decking stains. Oil based stains will perform better.
Our deck has new and old wood so we used an solid stain. It started peeling so we have scraped, cleaned, and it has dried but we can't decide what product to use next. Any suggestions. We've ready many reviews of products but don't feel there are many good options. Has anyone used Duckback Superdeck Elastomeric Paint? Did it work? Can't find any reviews on it.
I'm in the same exact predicament. What did you decide? I was thinking about duckback also.
no offense, but this article doesn't address the issue suggested by the title, namely how to blend new and old deck boards. Doing what was put forth in the article will not blend them, generally speaking. If you really want a blend, then after doing what was suggested in the article, you are going to have to experiment with stains on the new boards primarily and then a protective coating over all of it.
We have a deck that we stained a couple years ago and an addition to the deck from earlier this year. We want to restain the older part and stain the new part to match. Should we strip the old stain first, then use an oxygen cleaner and brighten everything? We started by using a bleach-based deck cleaner on the old part, which I see now was a big mistake. It left splotchy areas of bleached wood/old stain and made the wood fuzzy. How do we get back on the right track? Thanks!
Megan, strip than brighten the wood. Lightly sand if you have furring after it dries. This will restore the wood before the staining.
did not do any of the above. some slats and tops on posts are new. already stained. big mess is there hope?
Nell, probably need to strip and start over. Might want to wait until next Spring as it will be easier to remove.