This post was updated on May 1, 2024
Change from Water Based to Oil Based Deck Stains
DeckStainHelp.com continues to be a trusted source for the latest in deck restoration news and trending topics throughout 2024. Water-based stains and oil-based stains have their advantages and disadvantages. If you wish to change from a water-based to oil-based deck stain, or vice versa, here are some suggestions. Any questions? Ask below!
How to Change From Water Based to Oil Based Exterior Decking Stain and Vice Versa
The longevity of a deck or other exterior wood structure depends highly on how well it is maintained. A wood surface left alone or neglected will not last long in a harsh environment. Wood needs to be sealed and protected from moisture, UV rays, mold, mildew, and such contaminants that will cause rot and decay. The most common types of wood protectants are oil and water-based.
Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Once a wood surface is coated with a particular type of stain it is usually maintained every few years with another light maintenance coat of the same type of stain. However, on occasion, some homeowners may decide to change from oil-based to a water-based stain or vice versa.
To do this successfully a few guidelines need to be followed.
When switching from one particular type of stain to another, you have to remember the characteristics of the stains you are working with. These two types of stains will not perform well together. If the wood has a penetrating oil-based stain on it now, a water-based stain will not be able to penetrate the wood. If it is film-forming stains you are dealing with, they will not adhere well and normally the topcoat stain will fail prematurely.
To successfully change from oil-based to water-based or vice versa, you have to remove all of the existing stain. There are products like Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper that can help break down existing stains to make them easier to remove. The stripper is applied to the wood surface and allowed to dwell. It works to soften the stain so the wood surface can then be pressure washed or scrubbed clean. The second step of a wood brightener is then applied to neutralize the stripper and prepare the wood for a new stain.
Removing an old stain and getting back down to bare wood is the only way to ensure the new stain will adhere or penetrate the wood properly. Removing an old stain is not always easy. Solid stains and some water-based stains can be extremely stubborn. They may take several attempts to strip and sanding may be necessary. Once the existing stain is gone you can apply the new oil or water-based stain to a clean wood surface.
Please Ask Any Questions Below
Hello. We had some confusion this year and what we did by mistake was put an oil-based stain over our previously treated (3 years prior) water-based stained deck. It did not turn out very well and much of the stain just sat on top of the wood, and I had to wipe it off but a good amount remained. The deck is very old and has many splits in the wood. We decided that it needs a solid stain, should have done that in the first place. We are using Behr stain. I am assuming I will need to strip and clean the oil-based stain off. I am sure I cannot get down to the bare wood especially in the areas where the old water based stain remained. But I am hoping to get at least this top coat of oil based off. Especially since it wasn’t prepped for it in the first place. Just wondering if this is what you recommend or if there is anything else I should do? What are your thoughts on how well the water based solid stain will adhere at this point? Also wondering your opinion on the textured stain they have now. Thank you!
We would strip and brighten to remove as much as possible of all the old stain and then you should be okay to use a solid stain. Much better solid stains than Behr:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thank you. And just to confirm, the brightener is different than the cleaner, correct? Do I need to use both? I was using the Behr all in one wood cleaner. But idk if that has a brightener and it sounds like you wouldn’t recommend Behr anyhow.
Yes, you need both stripper and brightener. No need for a cleanr if using a deck stripper.
I have a pressure treated deck. The floor is Australian Timber Oul. The raillings are all a Cabot modified water / oil mix. What can I do to make it all the same product? Tks.
Reply with some pictures in the comments so we can offer help.
Just oil stain my outside deck, the wife did not like the color, can I apply a darker oil base stain over it? It
It depends on the stain brand and what they say. Over-application is usually the highest reason for failures.
I have a small area of cedar decking that was stained with a semi-transparent water based stain three years ago and has had to be scraped and restained every year since then. I have been able to remove all of the water based stain by using a pressure washer. I think the way to go would be to apply an oil based transparent stain to cut down on the yearly maintenance. Do you agree? Do I need to do anything in the way of prep now that the old stain is off?
Any penetrating stain will be okay. Does not matter if oi or water based: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
You should be okay for prep as long as old coating is gone and the wood is clean.
Thank you! Reading elsewhere, I see that I can expect to have to re-stain every two or three years even with the best stain. Does that sound right? Regardless, not having the stain peel would be a worthy goal.
Yes, correct. That is what you want to be able to clean and recoat as needed.
Many thanks for your help and your quick reply.
Welcome!
My deck is my own hell realm. I have a three story southern facing redwood deck. The first stain was suggested by the person who we hired. It was for boats. He said it would last. It started pealing within three months because the wood swelled. Then we paid to have the whole thing sanded and re-stained with a semi-transparent stain in oil based because we were told it lasted longer. We have to re-due it every one to two years. It really didn’t last long here in San Francisco. Now its hard to get oil based stain from the manufacturer unless I go to Nevada to purchase it and it’s not environmentally friendly. Once again what to do. I’m 67 years old and I don’t have the money or the stamina to clean, strip, and add a wood brightener to three stories of decking and stairs before I apply a semi transparent stain. Its too many steps. What I don’t understand is why no one is actually making a water based stain that can be applied to an oil base with out having to start from the beginning. A bridge so to speak between the oil and the water based which seems to be the direction we are all moving given the VOC’s and pollution. The internet is so full of options it is useless. I went to This Old House, and they said you can add water base over oil. Odd because in general you can’t to that. So I’m just not making any progress. My deck seems to be sealed, but faded. Three are only two areas that seem to be worn out on the treads where you see the wood. So essentially a stain is probably not what I could use as the wood is sealed. Because it wouldn’t be able to penetrate. What a confusing mess.
No matter when switching brands of penetrating stain, you have to remove the prior stain. The base of the stain does not matter.
Thanks.
I have a screened porch that has been previously stained with a semi-transparent (I think) stain. I don’t know what type of stain, or how long ago – but probably a very long time based on the rest of the house. We’re getting ready this year to repair and restain it, likely with a solid stain so we can significantly lighten the color. Minimal wear is expected. How do I determine the type of stain that was used? Or can I safely cover with oil or water based, regardless of what is currently there? We’ll be cleaning, but do not plan to completely strip.
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Kits and then you can stain with a solid stain.
years ago i used a decking oil on a treated pine deck.Well they called it an oil but its water based so it cant be . I recently replaced parts of the deck and also added bits now i want to paint it to keep it all the same can i use an oil based or turps wash up type paint ? i recently used a brand here in Australia on pavers and a concrete shed that dried really quick and appears to be very hard much harder than a water wash up type paint? i have just tried applying some on a small section that i can easily sand off and it seems to have taken really well cheers for any advice and merry christmas to all
You should remove your current coating if you want to switch to an oil-based paint or sain..
How can I change the color of brown solid stain to white color without deck stripper? The brown solid stain has been done recently and it is Behr based 5013.
Just pressure wash for prep and then apply 2-3 coats of the white solid stain over the brown solid stain.
Many thanks for quick response. Wondering if I should use the same brand but white color solid stain or you thing there is a better brand white solid stain to used it.
There are better brands of solid stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hello. I stained an outdoor porch with interior stain because I was told I could just use spar urethane to seal it and therefore the stain type wouldn’t matter. When I read the directions on the spar urethane it stated that it was not to be used on outdoor floors. A worker at the local hardware store confirmed this. I do not think the interior stain will provide an appropriate amount of protection from the elements. I thought of putting an exterior timber oil over the interior stain but read that the previously stained wood will not accept the timber oil. Currently, water puddles on the newly stained porch. Most of my porch is covered. The stairs and northwest corner receive most of the rain and sun exposure. What would you suggest? Thanks!
You have to remove the interior stain first by sanding it off then you can use a proper exterior wood and deck stain.
We used an oil based transparent stain 4 years ago but the smell was too strong.I want to switch to water based. Is that ok.
You will have to remove the current stain fully first. Post some pictures for prep help.
The man we hired is going to pressure wash it . Is that enough? What about spindles? He’s says hes washing them also . Another question. Is there an oil based deck stain semi transparent that is not overly smelly.
The old stain has to come off fully and that usually takes more than just pressure washing. You have to remove all when switching brands of stain.
Once fully removed, try the Restore A Deck Stains.
Can you add stain to darken a hybrid deck stain?
That would depend on the brand and what they suggest.
Hi. Fantastic Article. Quick question.
If I used an oil based semi-solid stain w/tint 3 years ago. Am I able to use a Water based stain this year? I used various deck cleaners to remove mildew, mold and dirt yesterday. I would like to use the water based if I can but dont want to ruin things. It would be the exact same color. Any thoughts?
You have to remove the current stain first. Strip and brighten for prep.
What is the best clear oil based product for a cedar deck?
TWP stains or Armstrong Clark Wood stains.
I have a deck stained with General Paint Semi Transparent Latex/Oil coating, our only General Paint supplier in town has closed, can you suggest another compatible stain to use ? We do have a Home Hardware in town,
Thanks, Seán.
You will need to remove the current coating fully when switchng brands of semi-transparent stains.
I stained a new deck after a year of weathering last season. I used RAD 2 step prep and water based stain. After this winter I had a lot of peel up on the horizontal surfaces. How do you recommend I proceed? Power wash to remove the stain that didn’t bond well and then clean and brighten and reapply to even it up the best I can or strip off all of it and try something else? If you recommend stripping will the RAD stripper break down the RAD water based stain?
Sounds like it did not soak in or was applied to heavily. Best to strip the floors and then brightener. Apply the RAD stain, just one coat.
How can I remove tinted Ali’s decking oil as I now want a natural finish?
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits.
I have been using Olympic maximum semi transparent redwood stain for years. I’m wondering if I can use Olympic Elite solid stain to cover the semi transparent? A lot of the old stain has peeled so I pressure washed it already and used a deck cleaning solution. Thanks for any help
You can. Just make sure all dirt and peeling stain is removed first.
One other question can you cover Olympic solid stain with another brand of solid stain down the road ?
One other question for future reference, can I use a different brand solid stain over semi transparent or solid stain or do I have to stay with the same brand ? Thanks for the help
You can use a different brand.
I have a 12ftx35ft all-wooden deck with approximately 55 feet of wooden railing. The deck is approximately 4-6 years old. I was fairly certain it had never been stained and the deck was definitely at least 1 year old when I stained it last, approximately 2-3 years ago. I read review after review from other websites and it seems there was always conflicting advice (oil vs water based, order of prep, brightener, etc), but no one has as comprehensive of a website and ACTIVE advice as you guys, so thanks for what you do! This is what I tried: Did a deck cleaner, then power washer, then had a ton of fuzzies that looked terrible, so I tried using a combination of a belt sander (roughly 3 inches by 14inch wide belt) and a 6 inch orbital sander to get rid of the fuzzies. It. Was. A nightmare. I used a deck pad applicator and paint brush on each spindle/post/railing. Total time was probably about 30 hours over a few weekends, of course having to redo a step or two because rain forced me to wait (and I have dogs that transit the deck from dog door to back yard while I’m at work). I used Thompsons WaterSeal Timber Oil (Teak). While I loved the color, it did not last long and I did not maintain it the way I should have. There is zero water beading on any horizontal surfaces with 5 second water test. Can’t tell on vertical surfaces but they seem more resistant (and darker). The dogs are very hard on this deck, as you’ll see from pictures. We average about 40 inches of rain a year and about 102 inches of snow. My dogs sometimes pee or poop on the deck. I’ve tried to stop it, but not a lot of luck. My top problems with the deck are: a) It gets INCREDIBLY slippery in wet/snowy weather. So much so that it makes it hard to even snow-blow the deck in winter because tires don’t want to grip. This is worsened by my laziness at promptly cleaning deck of leaves and performing annual cleaning/brightening and annual/semi-annual re-staining. I plan on fixing this in the future. b) Thompson stain seemed to last about a year or less. c) Mold/mildew/Algae grow incredibly fast on the deck even though I try to clear of snow often. I’m looking to do either TWP 1500 (live in NY) Semi Transparent (Rustic) or RAD Water Based Semi-Transparent (Cedar) and definitely leaning more towards the RAD option because trying to line up 2-4 days of no rain, warmer than 50, cooler than 80 or 90 with lower humidity is incredibly hard, especially when it means I have to keep my dogs inside during the process and come back from work to let them out. After reading other reviews and answers, my plan is to strip the deck with RAD, use pressure washer (2800 PSI, 2.3 GPM), apply the brightener from RAD, check for… Read more »
More Pictures…
1. No need.
2. 6-10 inches.
3. 15 minutes or so.
4. Only if fuzzies and only if bad otherwise just leave alone.
5. You are forcing the buffer. It is a delicate balance between tipping up and down. Very easy once you get the hang of it and will not tear up the pads.
6. No.
7. It will be close but should be enough. Only one coat the rails and two coats on floors applied wet on wet.
Awesome, thank you. Should I get the stripper booster gel stuff or not necessary?
No need to booster or gel additives for this one.
Follow up: I still want to strip and stain my deck but added a new section. I WAS going to just let it season for a year (winter is here in about 2-4 weeks) and then do the entire deck at once, but then a friend said he would definitely not let the deck sit that long because (other than the new part) the deck is already looking dry and we get a ton of snow in the NE.
Two questions:
1) Should I:
A) strip the entire deck, stain the entire deck
B) Strip the entire deck and stain only the seasoned part
C) Strip and stain only the old/seasoned portion?
2) Weather conditions below are not ideal and just barely on the boundary of their recommendations (45-90 degrees surface temperature, “do not apply when deaily low is below 45 degrees or when rain is expected within 12 hours”). Do you think I should:
A) Strip, brighten and stain on Saturday
B) Strip and brighten on Saturday, stain on Sunday at 9-10am as soon as it reaches 45?
TODAY: Raining
SAT: 55 HI, 40LOW 0% chance of rain, 50% humidity at 1pm increasing to 70% humidity over night
SUN: 60 HI, 46LOW 0% chance rain until 8pm, then increasing from 5% at 8pm, then increasing slowly until 47% at 11pm. Humidity starts at 70% early sunday morning, dropping to 50% and staying around 50% until early Monday morning
If I am going over a a solid water based stain that is peeling due to non sticking on a treated wood deck and am going to chemically remove most of the stain and then restain with a darker colour of the same water based stain can I get away without sanding any residue of the old stain without sanding
No. Strip what you can first. Let dry and then spot sand any peeling stain. You can then cover the intact stain that is not peeling with a new solid stain.
We’re using an acrylic transparent finish, (Behr) on are prepped deck. After several years, when it requires more maintenance, what are the procedures to refurbish it?
Most likely it will not last several years but maybe 1-2 years as the Behr has issues with peeling. You will need to strip and or sand to remove when it fails: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
Thanks. Think I’ll stop and remove what I’ve put on, and go with Thompsons or Olympic clear sealer.
You need a stain color if you want UV protection from graying: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
Just returned 6gals. of Behr finish. Going with your advice and recommended products on stripper and stain. You’ve been a lifesaver on this matter. Thanks again! Jeff
Hello I am thinking of staining my fence grey then protecting it with oil . Is it best to use water or solvent based stain before applying oil ? Or do I use an oil based stain ? I’ve already purchased the oil top coat as in my experience paint or solvent based finishes don’t last as long as oil
You cannot stain and then apply a coating or oil over a deck stain. It will blister and peel if you do this. Return the top coat and then just use a tinted deck stain. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I put a water based stain/sealant on my deck and I like the color but wanted to give it more protection…can I apply an oil based sealant (no stain) on top after letting the water based brand dry thoroughly?
No, you can never topcoat over a deck stain. It will fail.
By accident I mixed an oil based stain with and acrylic stain for my cedar deck. Not sure it is going to dry so I am assuming I will have to strip the deck and then give it a sand down and then use a wood brightener and then restain the deck using one or the other of the stains? Any recommendations? Will the deck stripper work if the deck is still tacky and not completely dry?
No, doubt it will work fully but you can strip off as much as possible and then sand the rest.
I was afraid of that. I think this maybe quite a messy rework to say the least. Live and learn. Thanks for your response I appreciate it.
How to stain brown pressure treated wood White after it has weathered a year?
I’m using SuperDeck transparent waterborne stain, should I apply a primer first ?
To get a white color you will need a solid stain. You do not prime.
I have water based clear on my merbeau deck at present and wish to put an oiled based clear on it. The oiled based finish tends to leave the deck with a more shiny look. Am I wrong in thinking this and what preparation would I have to do before using oil based finish
You will have to strip and brighten for prep. Oil-based stains will not leave the wood shiny.
I have several coats (years) of water base stain on a pressure treaded deck. Can I change to a oil base stain without stripping the deck?
No. You will have to remove by stripping and sanding.
Yes. As long as the wood is weathered. Do a splash test….if water beads, strip (powerwash) and sand. Light sand. 220 will do. A wood brightener after this, never hurts. Maybe overkill, but a good process.
If water doesn’t bead. Just stain. Whichever is good, but most are water-modified these days. Will leave a bit of plasticy type finish if overapplied.
I used a clear oil on my decking about 2 years ago but don’t know if it was water or solvent based , I want to now use a coloured oil which is solvent based will it be ok to use ?
After you strip and brighten for prep, yes.
I used a oil based stain over a water based stain. The result is a bubbling appearance on the wood. How can this be corrected?
You will have to remove all and start over. Strip and sand.
I need to stain/seal some exterior vertical wood and posts that are 13 years old and already have a stain on them. I don’t know what the existing stain is, I didn’t own the house when it was applied. I don’t know if it was water or oil based, and I don’t know if it was semi-transp, semi-solid or solid? I would like to use oil based semi-solid or semi-transparent. I do not want to use solid. How do I know what to use (oil or water) if I don’t know what’s already been used?
You have to remove the current stain first. Applying a different brand of semi-transparent over what you have will lead to product failure. How to remove depends on the current stain type and brand. Pictures would help.
Here are 2 photos. I’d like to use an oil base semi-transport or semi-solid if possible. Just bought this house, don’t know what’s on it now, but it’s almost all gone.
Use a stain stripper and a wood brightener: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Once removed, you can use a semi-transparent stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
I currently have water based stain on my deck, can I change to a oil based stain and what is the best way to do it? What is the best oil best stain to use?
You will have to remove the current coating to change. How depends on the brand and type of stain. Pictures would help.
I stuffed my deck up i sanded my deck back not to bear wood. I had waterbase stain originally and then i put oil based on top coming out very patchy could i use a waterbase stain to fix the problem
No, you would have to remove all down to the bard wood and start over to fix this.
We purchased a new home and did a water sealer only on the front porch. We now need to stain the.porch can we use oil based stain?
After you strip and brighten for the prep to remove the sealer. Use TWP or Armstrong Clark Stains. Both are oil-based.
We have wood garage doors that have been stained with Sikkens cetol 1 RE for many years now. Being in Canada oil based products are no longer available. We now are looking at paint, what type of primer do we use & do we have to sand to bare wood?
You can still use oil-based stain there are long as they are VOC compliant. TWP 200 Series and Armstrong Clark are a couple. Strip and or sand to remove the Sikkens for the prep. Brightener after.
Not in Canada, no oil based stain is available. We are now looking @ painting…do we have to go to bare wood…not looking forward to it?
Sorry but you are wrong on the oil-based stain. Besides the two we mentioned there are numerous others that are compliant for Canada. Messmers, Penofin, etc.
i used Olympic acrylic oil semi transparent stain on my decks at least 5 yrs ago, what can I use now?
Strip and or sand to remove. Brighten the wood after. You can then use any brand. Look at one of these: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Thank you for replying, I have multiple questions. I have 2 decks 22 & 24 yrs old. Is Olympic acrylic oil semi transparent stain an oil based or water based stain? They are in fairly good shape. Will stripping and or sanding damage the older wood? Would it be better to reapply the Olympic stain? Cannot remember what I used originally but it did adhere and was ok.
If it says “acrylic” that means it is water-based. Stripping and sanding will not damage the wood. We would switch from the Olympic.
Thank you for reply. I have many questions. I have 2 decks 22 & 24 yrs old. Is Olympic acrylic oil semi transparent oil or water based? Will sanding or stripping damage this older wood? Is it better to reapply the Olympic product again? Algae is an issue because we have many flower pots. Decks are in pretty good shape, but weathered. What product would I use to strip, do not own power washer.
I am considering Sikkens oil based deck stain. If I experience traffic spots can the stain simply be reapplied in the future?
You cannot spot apply. You would have to prep all and stain all.
I was convinced by a contractor to use a Cabot solid color oil deck stain made to a Benjamin Moore color formula. The color came out very wrong and now there are two coats of it on my deck. I went back to the paint store and had the owner remix me another gallon but it came out the same. Then he tinkered with it for about an hour, adding blue and black, and said it was perfect. It obviously doesn’t match the swatch and now I’m stuck with another gallon of this Cabot oil stain that is not what I want. It looks like Benjamin Moore has an oil product called Impervo – I wonder why we didn’t just go with that. I wonder why Cabot can’t match the color?
Currently my deck has Glidden Endurance oil based semi transparent redwood deck stain on it. I am looking to restain but it appears that Glidden no longer makes this product. What prep do I need to do before I switch to a different brand of oil based semi transparent deck stain of same or similar color? The stain is pretty much intact.
Post a picture.
Here is a picture of what it looks like now. I haven’t done any prep or cleaning yet.
That is a solid stain. You will need to sue a solid stain again unless you want to power sand it all off.
I have a two-level hardwood deck that is 25 years old. The wood is in good shape with peeling water based stain. If I strip the upper deck first, how should I protect the lower deck (next year’s project)? When I power wash the stripper off and it drips through, will it begin stripping the lower deck?
Also, is it a bad idea to use water based products on hard woods in a four season climate? They don’t seem to last. My deck is pau lope which is fine grained, much like mahogany.
You cannot do the top and then the lower later. The stripper will create an issue for the lower deck. You can use Defy Hardwood Stain. It is water-based.
Thank you for the quick reply! If it were your deck and clean up were not an issue, would you use the hardwood water based or oil based stain?
Either, both will work well if a good brand.
Sanded down a redwood picnic table, put linseed oil on it sanded it down again. Bought Cabot solid color acrylic deck stain, at the the same time I bought the linseed oil. I have been told that acrylic paint or stain does not adhere to linseed oil. I asked for a oil based paint or stain when I purchased both of the products, didn’t realize they gave me an acrylic base until today.
You should strip off the linseed oil as using that first is not a good idea nor would have an oil-based solid stain actually adhered well to it.
Sanded down a redwood picnic table put linseed oil on it. Bought Cabot solid color acrylic deck stain. Was told it was good for putting over the linseed oil. I didn’t read the can, saying “Acrylic”
Our fence is cedar and we had stained with water based stain. We would like to do it with an oil stain this time. Do we still have to remove all of water stain first? Will pressure washing do this?
Yes, you have to remove. Typically you need to strip and pressure wash. Best to post a picture or two for help.
What if I stain over the existing water based stain with an oil based stain. Let’s assume that it is a new stain and fairly happy with the color, and I want to get the benefit of oil based less maintenance feature, and I want to over coat it.
You cannot cover over it. It will not adhere or penetrate into the wood.
how to find out what has been used on our deck either water or oil
Not possible just looking at it. Are you trying to switch brands? If so, you will need to remove.
We are in process of getting bids to restore our 3 year old 500 square foot deck. We used Behr semi transparent water based stain, which has failed after the first year, mostly on the deck boards. One suggestion was to apply a semi solid stain (not clear which brand..or if water or oil based) to the pickets and railing without stripping due to the labor involved. The actual deck boards would be stripped and brightened, possibly sanded, and re-sealed using Armstrong-Clark semi transparent oil based stain. Will this work? I am mostly concerned about not stripping or sanding the railing/pickets and putting another product over the top with only a cleaning. Thank you for your input.
Yes but you would want a solid stain for the rails. Looks nice: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
What is the prep to redo an oil-based semi solid stained deck with the same oil-based product?
What brand?
The relatively new unstained deck was properly prepped and then coated with two coats of Benjamin Moore Armour Coat Semi-solid oil base stain. That was four yrs. ago. We would like to restain it again with the very same BM Armour Coat Semi Solid oil base stain. However, we have gotten mixed messages on how to prep the deck. The deck is still in great shape physically except for the fading color. We live in the south and the deck is exposed to our hot summers and high humidity, but a large portion of the deck has a canopy of two large crepe myrtle trees which gives some protection. Please help!!
Post a picture of the current condition. Most likely just clean and recoat if the current stain is intact.
Last year I used Defy Extreme on my deck. It is fading and some spots are getting bold exposing the wood. Why so soon ? Should I just stain again or I need to power wash and then stain again.