Can you put an oil-based stain over a water-based stain? Can you put a water-based stain over an oil-based stain? You’ve probably heard the expression about how two people (with strongly opposing views) “go together like oil and water.” The same applies to oil-based and water-based deck stains. Fortunately, by following some simple steps, you can successfully switch between the two.
- To switch between oil-based and water-based deck stains, you must strip, clean, and brighten the surface before applying the new stain.
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper is recommended for removing transparent to semi-solid stains, while RAD PaintStrip works best for solid stains.
- Applying a deck brightener after cleaning opens the wood's pores, improving absorption and ensuring the new stain bonds properly.
- Allow 24 hours for water-based stains and 72 hours for oil-based stains to fully cure before walking on or furnishing the deck.
Key Takeaways
- Staining your deck is critical for maintaining the appearance, condition, and longevity of the structure.
- Both oil-based and water-based stains have advantages and disadvantages to consider based on your specific needs.
- To transition between the two, the surface must be properly stripped, cleaned, and brightened (neutralized).
How to Switch Between Oil-Based and Water-Based Deck Stains
Once a deck is stained with either an oil or water-based option, a maintenance coat of the same type is typically applied every few years. However, homeowners sometimes choose to switch to a water-based stain over an oil-based stain (or vice versa).
Why Homeowners Switch Between Stain Types
Common reasons for switching between oil and water-based stains include:
Environmental regulations restricted oil-based products in many states because they contained more pollutants known as volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Other common reasons for choosing water-based stains include the wider variety of colors, better capability of matching custom colors, and easier cleanup without solvents.
Oil-based stains are known for deeply penetrating the wood and enhancing its natural grain. Therefore, homeowners who are unsatisfied with the performance of water-based options may consider switching. Many oil-based stains offer superior UV protection, making them popular in sunny areas like the southwestern U.S.
Steps to Successfully Change Deck Stains
Before applying a different stain, follow these three steps:
- Remove existing stain: Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper is my go-to for removing transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid stains. After applying, allow the stripper to dwell on the surface for 10-15 minutes. For stubborn stains, Restore-A-Deck has two additives: Stain Stripper Booster and Stain Stripper Thickening Gel. For solid stain removal, RAD PaintStrip is very effective.
- Clean the surface: Apply a quality deck cleaning product and agitate with a scrub brush before using a pressure washer (at low pressure) to rinse thoroughly.
- Apply deck brightener: Brighteners, or neutralizers, expand the wood’s pores to improve absorption. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding application and drying time.
Check out my article on prepping your deck.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Switching Deck Stains
- Failing to completely remove the existing stain prevents the new stain from adequately penetrating.
- Deck cleaners containing bleach may damage wood fibers and pose health risks.
- Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, particularly when using new products.
FAQs
Which is better, water-based or oil-based deck stain?
It depends. Different water-based and oil-based stains have strengths and weaknesses. Evaluate each option individually to determine how it fits with your specific needs. Factors to consider include the deck’s condition, type of wood, local climate, and more.
Do I need to remove old stains before restaining a deck?
Yes. Completely remove the existing stain if changing from an oil to a water-based stain (or vice-versa) or when switching brands of transparent, semi-transparent, or semi-solid stain. Completely removing solid stains is generally not necessary if reapplying with another solid unless the existing stain is shedding or flaking.
How do I know if my existing stain is water-based or oil-based?
The first test involves sprinkling some water on the surface. Water will noticeably “bead up” on oil-based stains. Next, swipe a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol through the surface and allow it to dry. Generally, the color of a water-based stain will lighten, while an oil-based stain will appear unchanged.
How long should I wait before using my deck after switching stains?
Despite feeling dry to the touch, I recommend allowing enough time to ensure the stain has fully cured before walking or positioning furniture on the deck. In general, allow 24 hours for water-based and 72 hours for oil-based stains.
Do I need to sand my deck after stripping the old stain?
Sanding is typically not necessary if the existing stain is completely removed. Stubborn stains often need sanding with 40-to-60-grit paper when a stripper alone is unable to completely remove them. Switching from solids to more transparent stains will usually require powerful strippers such as RAD PaintStrip and some sanding.
hi, can I apply a water base decking oil over an oil-based decking oil without sanding the whole the deck it’s in a fair condition
No, and when switching stain brands or base types, the prior coating should be removed first by stripping or brightening.
Cleaned and applied ready seal stain oil based on my deck 2 years ago. What do I need to do to go back to the floods water based natural stain or can it be done.
Strip and brighten with restore a deck kits. There are much better stains then Flood.
Hello. We had some confusion this year and what we did by mistake was put an oil-based stain over our previously treated (3 years prior) water-based stained deck. It did not turn out very well and much of the stain just sat on top of the wood, and I had to wipe it off but a good amount remained. The deck is very old and has many splits in the wood. We decided that it needs a solid stain, should have done that in the first place. We are using Behr stain. I am assuming I will need to strip and clean the oil-based stain off. I am sure I cannot get down to the bare wood especially in the areas where the old water based stain remained. But I am hoping to get at least this top coat of oil based off. Especially since it wasn’t prepped for it in the first place. Just wondering if this is what you recommend or if there is anything else I should do? What are your thoughts on how well the water based solid stain will adhere at this point? Also wondering your opinion on the textured stain they have now. Thank you!
We would strip and brighten to remove as much as possible of all the old stain and then you should be okay to use a solid stain. Much better solid stains than Behr:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thank you. And just to confirm, the brightener is different than the cleaner, correct? Do I need to use both? I was using the Behr all in one wood cleaner. But idk if that has a brightener and it sounds like you wouldn’t recommend Behr anyhow.
Yes, you need both stripper and brightener. No need for a cleanr if using a deck stripper.
I have a pressure treated deck. The floor is Australian Timber Oul. The raillings are all a Cabot modified water / oil mix. What can I do to make it all the same product? Tks.
Reply with some pictures in the comments so we can offer help.
Just oil stain my outside deck, the wife did not like the color, can I apply a darker oil base stain over it? It
It depends on the stain brand and what they say. Over-application is usually the highest reason for failures.
I have a small area of cedar decking that was stained with a semi-transparent water based stain three years ago and has had to be scraped and restained every year since then. I have been able to remove all of the water based stain by using a pressure washer. I think the way to go would be to apply an oil based transparent stain to cut down on the yearly maintenance. Do you agree? Do I need to do anything in the way of prep now that the old stain is off?
Any penetrating stain will be okay. Does not matter if oi or water based: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
You should be okay for prep as long as old coating is gone and the wood is clean.
Thank you! Reading elsewhere, I see that I can expect to have to re-stain every two or three years even with the best stain. Does that sound right? Regardless, not having the stain peel would be a worthy goal.
Yes, correct. That is what you want to be able to clean and recoat as needed.
Many thanks for your help and your quick reply.
Welcome!
My deck is my own hell realm. I have a three story southern facing redwood deck. The first stain was suggested by the person who we hired. It was for boats. He said it would last. It started pealing within three months because the wood swelled. Then we paid to have the whole thing sanded and re-stained with a semi-transparent stain in oil based because we were told it lasted longer. We have to re-due it every one to two years. It really didn’t last long here in San Francisco. Now its hard to get oil based stain from the manufacturer unless I go to Nevada to purchase it and it’s not environmentally friendly. Once again what to do. I’m 67 years old and I don’t have the money or the stamina to clean, strip, and add a wood brightener to three stories of decking and stairs before I apply a semi transparent stain. Its too many steps. What I don’t understand is why no one is actually making a water based stain that can be applied to an oil base with out having to start from the beginning. A bridge so to speak between the oil and the water based which seems to be the direction we are all moving given the VOC’s and pollution. The internet is so full of options it is useless. I went to This Old House, and they said you can add water base over oil. Odd because in general you can’t to that. So I’m just not making any progress. My deck seems to be sealed, but faded. Three are only two areas that seem to be worn out on the treads where you see the wood. So essentially a stain is probably not what I could use as the wood is sealed. Because it wouldn’t be able to penetrate. What a confusing mess.
No matter when switching brands of penetrating stain, you have to remove the prior stain. The base of the stain does not matter.
Thanks.
I have a screened porch that has been previously stained with a semi-transparent (I think) stain. I don’t know what type of stain, or how long ago – but probably a very long time based on the rest of the house. We’re getting ready this year to repair and restain it, likely with a solid stain so we can significantly lighten the color. Minimal wear is expected. How do I determine the type of stain that was used? Or can I safely cover with oil or water based, regardless of what is currently there? We’ll be cleaning, but do not plan to completely strip.
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Kits and then you can stain with a solid stain.
years ago i used a decking oil on a treated pine deck.Well they called it an oil but its water based so it cant be . I recently replaced parts of the deck and also added bits now i want to paint it to keep it all the same can i use an oil based or turps wash up type paint ? i recently used a brand here in Australia on pavers and a concrete shed that dried really quick and appears to be very hard much harder than a water wash up type paint? i have just tried applying some on a small section that i can easily sand off and it seems to have taken really well cheers for any advice and merry christmas to all
You should remove your current coating if you want to switch to an oil-based paint or sain..
How can I change the color of brown solid stain to white color without deck stripper? The brown solid stain has been done recently and it is Behr based 5013.
Just pressure wash for prep and then apply 2-3 coats of the white solid stain over the brown solid stain.
Many thanks for quick response. Wondering if I should use the same brand but white color solid stain or you thing there is a better brand white solid stain to used it.
There are better brands of solid stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hello. I stained an outdoor porch with interior stain because I was told I could just use spar urethane to seal it and therefore the stain type wouldn’t matter. When I read the directions on the spar urethane it stated that it was not to be used on outdoor floors. A worker at the local hardware store confirmed this. I do not think the interior stain will provide an appropriate amount of protection from the elements. I thought of putting an exterior timber oil over the interior stain but read that the previously stained wood will not accept the timber oil. Currently, water puddles on the newly stained porch. Most of my porch is covered. The stairs and northwest corner receive most of the rain and sun exposure. What would you suggest? Thanks!
You have to remove the interior stain first by sanding it off then you can use a proper exterior wood and deck stain.
We used an oil based transparent stain 4 years ago but the smell was too strong.I want to switch to water based. Is that ok.
You will have to remove the current stain fully first. Post some pictures for prep help.
The man we hired is going to pressure wash it . Is that enough? What about spindles? He’s says hes washing them also . Another question. Is there an oil based deck stain semi transparent that is not overly smelly.
The old stain has to come off fully and that usually takes more than just pressure washing. You have to remove all when switching brands of stain.
Once fully removed, try the Restore A Deck Stains.
Can you add stain to darken a hybrid deck stain?
That would depend on the brand and what they suggest.
Hi. Fantastic Article. Quick question.
If I used an oil based semi-solid stain w/tint 3 years ago. Am I able to use a Water based stain this year? I used various deck cleaners to remove mildew, mold and dirt yesterday. I would like to use the water based if I can but dont want to ruin things. It would be the exact same color. Any thoughts?
You have to remove the current stain first. Strip and brighten for prep.
What is the best clear oil based product for a cedar deck?
TWP stains or Armstrong Clark Wood stains.
I have a deck stained with General Paint Semi Transparent Latex/Oil coating, our only General Paint supplier in town has closed, can you suggest another compatible stain to use ? We do have a Home Hardware in town,
Thanks, Seán.
You will need to remove the current coating fully when switchng brands of semi-transparent stains.
I stained a new deck after a year of weathering last season. I used RAD 2 step prep and water based stain. After this winter I had a lot of peel up on the horizontal surfaces. How do you recommend I proceed? Power wash to remove the stain that didn’t bond well and then clean and brighten and reapply to even it up the best I can or strip off all of it and try something else? If you recommend stripping will the RAD stripper break down the RAD water based stain?
Sounds like it did not soak in or was applied to heavily. Best to strip the floors and then brightener. Apply the RAD stain, just one coat.
How can I remove tinted Ali’s decking oil as I now want a natural finish?
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits.
I have been using Olympic maximum semi transparent redwood stain for years. I’m wondering if I can use Olympic Elite solid stain to cover the semi transparent? A lot of the old stain has peeled so I pressure washed it already and used a deck cleaning solution. Thanks for any help
You can. Just make sure all dirt and peeling stain is removed first.
One other question can you cover Olympic solid stain with another brand of solid stain down the road ?
One other question for future reference, can I use a different brand solid stain over semi transparent or solid stain or do I have to stay with the same brand ? Thanks for the help
You can use a different brand.
I have a 12ftx35ft all-wooden deck with approximately 55 feet of wooden railing. The deck is approximately 4-6 years old. I was fairly certain it had never been stained and the deck was definitely at least 1 year old when I stained it last, approximately 2-3 years ago. I read review after review from other websites and it seems there was always conflicting advice (oil vs water based, order of prep, brightener, etc), but no one has as comprehensive of a website and ACTIVE advice as you guys, so thanks for what you do! This is what I tried: Did a deck cleaner, then power washer, then had a ton of fuzzies that looked terrible, so I tried using a combination of a belt sander (roughly 3 inches by 14inch wide belt) and a 6 inch orbital sander to get rid of the fuzzies. It. Was. A nightmare. I used a deck pad applicator and paint brush on each spindle/post/railing. Total time was probably about 30 hours over a few weekends, of course having to redo a step or two because rain forced me to wait (and I have dogs that transit the deck from dog door to back yard while I’m at work). I used Thompsons WaterSeal Timber Oil (Teak). While I loved the color, it did not last long and I did not maintain it the way I should have. There is zero water beading on any horizontal surfaces with 5 second water test. Can’t tell on vertical surfaces but they seem more resistant (and darker). The dogs are very hard on this deck, as you’ll see from pictures. We average about 40 inches of rain a year and about 102 inches of snow. My dogs sometimes pee or poop on the deck. I’ve tried to stop it, but not a lot of luck. My top problems with the deck are: a) It gets INCREDIBLY slippery in wet/snowy weather. So much so that it makes it hard to even snow-blow the deck in winter because tires don’t want to grip. This is worsened by my laziness at promptly cleaning deck of leaves and performing annual cleaning/brightening and annual/semi-annual re-staining. I plan on fixing this in the future. b) Thompson stain seemed to last about a year or less. c) Mold/mildew/Algae grow incredibly fast on the deck even though I try to clear of snow often. I’m looking to do either TWP 1500 (live in NY) Semi Transparent (Rustic) or RAD Water Based Semi-Transparent (Cedar) and definitely leaning more towards the RAD option because trying to line up 2-4 days of no rain, warmer than 50, cooler than 80 or 90 with lower humidity is incredibly hard, especially when it means I have to keep my dogs inside during the process and come back from work to let them out. After reading other reviews and answers, my plan is to strip the deck with RAD, use pressure washer (2800 PSI, 2.3 GPM), apply the brightener from RAD, check for… Read more »
More Pictures…
1. No need.
2. 6-10 inches.
3. 15 minutes or so.
4. Only if fuzzies and only if bad otherwise just leave alone.
5. You are forcing the buffer. It is a delicate balance between tipping up and down. Very easy once you get the hang of it and will not tear up the pads.
6. No.
7. It will be close but should be enough. Only one coat the rails and two coats on floors applied wet on wet.
Awesome, thank you. Should I get the stripper booster gel stuff or not necessary?
No need to booster or gel additives for this one.
Follow up: I still want to strip and stain my deck but added a new section. I WAS going to just let it season for a year (winter is here in about 2-4 weeks) and then do the entire deck at once, but then a friend said he would definitely not let the deck sit that long because (other than the new part) the deck is already looking dry and we get a ton of snow in the NE.
Two questions:
1) Should I:
A) strip the entire deck, stain the entire deck
B) Strip the entire deck and stain only the seasoned part
C) Strip and stain only the old/seasoned portion?
2) Weather conditions below are not ideal and just barely on the boundary of their recommendations (45-90 degrees surface temperature, “do not apply when deaily low is below 45 degrees or when rain is expected within 12 hours”). Do you think I should:
A) Strip, brighten and stain on Saturday
B) Strip and brighten on Saturday, stain on Sunday at 9-10am as soon as it reaches 45?
TODAY: Raining
SAT: 55 HI, 40LOW 0% chance of rain, 50% humidity at 1pm increasing to 70% humidity over night
SUN: 60 HI, 46LOW 0% chance rain until 8pm, then increasing from 5% at 8pm, then increasing slowly until 47% at 11pm. Humidity starts at 70% early sunday morning, dropping to 50% and staying around 50% until early Monday morning
If I am going over a a solid water based stain that is peeling due to non sticking on a treated wood deck and am going to chemically remove most of the stain and then restain with a darker colour of the same water based stain can I get away without sanding any residue of the old stain without sanding
No. Strip what you can first. Let dry and then spot sand any peeling stain. You can then cover the intact stain that is not peeling with a new solid stain.
We’re using an acrylic transparent finish, (Behr) on are prepped deck. After several years, when it requires more maintenance, what are the procedures to refurbish it?
Most likely it will not last several years but maybe 1-2 years as the Behr has issues with peeling. You will need to strip and or sand to remove when it fails: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
Thanks. Think I’ll stop and remove what I’ve put on, and go with Thompsons or Olympic clear sealer.
You need a stain color if you want UV protection from graying: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
Just returned 6gals. of Behr finish. Going with your advice and recommended products on stripper and stain. You’ve been a lifesaver on this matter. Thanks again! Jeff
Hello I am thinking of staining my fence grey then protecting it with oil . Is it best to use water or solvent based stain before applying oil ? Or do I use an oil based stain ? I’ve already purchased the oil top coat as in my experience paint or solvent based finishes don’t last as long as oil
You cannot stain and then apply a coating or oil over a deck stain. It will blister and peel if you do this. Return the top coat and then just use a tinted deck stain. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I put a water based stain/sealant on my deck and I like the color but wanted to give it more protection…can I apply an oil based sealant (no stain) on top after letting the water based brand dry thoroughly?
No, you can never topcoat over a deck stain. It will fail.
By accident I mixed an oil based stain with and acrylic stain for my cedar deck. Not sure it is going to dry so I am assuming I will have to strip the deck and then give it a sand down and then use a wood brightener and then restain the deck using one or the other of the stains? Any recommendations? Will the deck stripper work if the deck is still tacky and not completely dry?
No, doubt it will work fully but you can strip off as much as possible and then sand the rest.
I was afraid of that. I think this maybe quite a messy rework to say the least. Live and learn. Thanks for your response I appreciate it.
How to stain brown pressure treated wood White after it has weathered a year?
I’m using SuperDeck transparent waterborne stain, should I apply a primer first ?
To get a white color you will need a solid stain. You do not prime.
I have water based clear on my merbeau deck at present and wish to put an oiled based clear on it. The oiled based finish tends to leave the deck with a more shiny look. Am I wrong in thinking this and what preparation would I have to do before using oil based finish
You will have to strip and brighten for prep. Oil-based stains will not leave the wood shiny.
I have several coats (years) of water base stain on a pressure treaded deck. Can I change to a oil base stain without stripping the deck?
No. You will have to remove by stripping and sanding.
Yes. As long as the wood is weathered. Do a splash test….if water beads, strip (powerwash) and sand. Light sand. 220 will do. A wood brightener after this, never hurts. Maybe overkill, but a good process.
If water doesn’t bead. Just stain. Whichever is good, but most are water-modified these days. Will leave a bit of plasticy type finish if overapplied.
I used a clear oil on my decking about 2 years ago but don’t know if it was water or solvent based , I want to now use a coloured oil which is solvent based will it be ok to use ?
After you strip and brighten for prep, yes.
I used a oil based stain over a water based stain. The result is a bubbling appearance on the wood. How can this be corrected?
You will have to remove all and start over. Strip and sand.
I need to stain/seal some exterior vertical wood and posts that are 13 years old and already have a stain on them. I don’t know what the existing stain is, I didn’t own the house when it was applied. I don’t know if it was water or oil based, and I don’t know if it was semi-transp, semi-solid or solid? I would like to use oil based semi-solid or semi-transparent. I do not want to use solid. How do I know what to use (oil or water) if I don’t know what’s already been used?
You have to remove the current stain first. Applying a different brand of semi-transparent over what you have will lead to product failure. How to remove depends on the current stain type and brand. Pictures would help.
Here are 2 photos. I’d like to use an oil base semi-transport or semi-solid if possible. Just bought this house, don’t know what’s on it now, but it’s almost all gone.
Use a stain stripper and a wood brightener: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Once removed, you can use a semi-transparent stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
I currently have water based stain on my deck, can I change to a oil based stain and what is the best way to do it? What is the best oil best stain to use?
You will have to remove the current coating to change. How depends on the brand and type of stain. Pictures would help.
I stuffed my deck up i sanded my deck back not to bear wood. I had waterbase stain originally and then i put oil based on top coming out very patchy could i use a waterbase stain to fix the problem
No, you would have to remove all down to the bard wood and start over to fix this.
We purchased a new home and did a water sealer only on the front porch. We now need to stain the.porch can we use oil based stain?
After you strip and brighten for the prep to remove the sealer. Use TWP or Armstrong Clark Stains. Both are oil-based.
We have wood garage doors that have been stained with Sikkens cetol 1 RE for many years now. Being in Canada oil based products are no longer available. We now are looking at paint, what type of primer do we use & do we have to sand to bare wood?
You can still use oil-based stain there are long as they are VOC compliant. TWP 200 Series and Armstrong Clark are a couple. Strip and or sand to remove the Sikkens for the prep. Brightener after.
Not in Canada, no oil based stain is available. We are now looking @ painting…do we have to go to bare wood…not looking forward to it?
Sorry but you are wrong on the oil-based stain. Besides the two we mentioned there are numerous others that are compliant for Canada. Messmers, Penofin, etc.
i used Olympic acrylic oil semi transparent stain on my decks at least 5 yrs ago, what can I use now?
Strip and or sand to remove. Brighten the wood after. You can then use any brand. Look at one of these: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Thank you for replying, I have multiple questions. I have 2 decks 22 & 24 yrs old. Is Olympic acrylic oil semi transparent stain an oil based or water based stain? They are in fairly good shape. Will stripping and or sanding damage the older wood? Would it be better to reapply the Olympic stain? Cannot remember what I used originally but it did adhere and was ok.
If it says “acrylic” that means it is water-based. Stripping and sanding will not damage the wood. We would switch from the Olympic.
Thank you for reply. I have many questions. I have 2 decks 22 & 24 yrs old. Is Olympic acrylic oil semi transparent oil or water based? Will sanding or stripping damage this older wood? Is it better to reapply the Olympic product again? Algae is an issue because we have many flower pots. Decks are in pretty good shape, but weathered. What product would I use to strip, do not own power washer.
I am considering Sikkens oil based deck stain. If I experience traffic spots can the stain simply be reapplied in the future?
You cannot spot apply. You would have to prep all and stain all.
I was convinced by a contractor to use a Cabot solid color oil deck stain made to a Benjamin Moore color formula. The color came out very wrong and now there are two coats of it on my deck. I went back to the paint store and had the owner remix me another gallon but it came out the same. Then he tinkered with it for about an hour, adding blue and black, and said it was perfect. It obviously doesn’t match the swatch and now I’m stuck with another gallon of this Cabot oil stain that is not what I want. It looks like Benjamin Moore has an oil product called Impervo – I wonder why we didn’t just go with that. I wonder why Cabot can’t match the color?
Currently my deck has Glidden Endurance oil based semi transparent redwood deck stain on it. I am looking to restain but it appears that Glidden no longer makes this product. What prep do I need to do before I switch to a different brand of oil based semi transparent deck stain of same or similar color? The stain is pretty much intact.
Post a picture.
Here is a picture of what it looks like now. I haven’t done any prep or cleaning yet.
That is a solid stain. You will need to sue a solid stain again unless you want to power sand it all off.
I have a two-level hardwood deck that is 25 years old. The wood is in good shape with peeling water based stain. If I strip the upper deck first, how should I protect the lower deck (next year’s project)? When I power wash the stripper off and it drips through, will it begin stripping the lower deck?
Also, is it a bad idea to use water based products on hard woods in a four season climate? They don’t seem to last. My deck is pau lope which is fine grained, much like mahogany.
You cannot do the top and then the lower later. The stripper will create an issue for the lower deck. You can use Defy Hardwood Stain. It is water-based.
Thank you for the quick reply! If it were your deck and clean up were not an issue, would you use the hardwood water based or oil based stain?
Either, both will work well if a good brand.
Sanded down a redwood picnic table, put linseed oil on it sanded it down again. Bought Cabot solid color acrylic deck stain, at the the same time I bought the linseed oil. I have been told that acrylic paint or stain does not adhere to linseed oil. I asked for a oil based paint or stain when I purchased both of the products, didn’t realize they gave me an acrylic base until today.
You should strip off the linseed oil as using that first is not a good idea nor would have an oil-based solid stain actually adhered well to it.
Sanded down a redwood picnic table put linseed oil on it. Bought Cabot solid color acrylic deck stain. Was told it was good for putting over the linseed oil. I didn’t read the can, saying “Acrylic”
Our fence is cedar and we had stained with water based stain. We would like to do it with an oil stain this time. Do we still have to remove all of water stain first? Will pressure washing do this?
Yes, you have to remove. Typically you need to strip and pressure wash. Best to post a picture or two for help.
What if I stain over the existing water based stain with an oil based stain. Let’s assume that it is a new stain and fairly happy with the color, and I want to get the benefit of oil based less maintenance feature, and I want to over coat it.
You cannot cover over it. It will not adhere or penetrate into the wood.
how to find out what has been used on our deck either water or oil
Not possible just looking at it. Are you trying to switch brands? If so, you will need to remove.
We are in process of getting bids to restore our 3 year old 500 square foot deck. We used Behr semi transparent water based stain, which has failed after the first year, mostly on the deck boards. One suggestion was to apply a semi solid stain (not clear which brand..or if water or oil based) to the pickets and railing without stripping due to the labor involved. The actual deck boards would be stripped and brightened, possibly sanded, and re-sealed using Armstrong-Clark semi transparent oil based stain. Will this work? I am mostly concerned about not stripping or sanding the railing/pickets and putting another product over the top with only a cleaning. Thank you for your input.
Yes but you would want a solid stain for the rails. Looks nice: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
What is the prep to redo an oil-based semi solid stained deck with the same oil-based product?
What brand?
The relatively new unstained deck was properly prepped and then coated with two coats of Benjamin Moore Armour Coat Semi-solid oil base stain. That was four yrs. ago. We would like to restain it again with the very same BM Armour Coat Semi Solid oil base stain. However, we have gotten mixed messages on how to prep the deck. The deck is still in great shape physically except for the fading color. We live in the south and the deck is exposed to our hot summers and high humidity, but a large portion of the deck has a canopy of two large crepe myrtle trees which gives some protection. Please help!!
Post a picture of the current condition. Most likely just clean and recoat if the current stain is intact.
Last year I used Defy Extreme on my deck. It is fading and some spots are getting bold exposing the wood. Why so soon ? Should I just stain again or I need to power wash and then stain again.
Pressure wash and apply again. For some reason, it did not soak in those areas.
Should I use a cleaner as well when I pressure wash ? And can I use a different brand instead of Defy again ? Is Sikkens Cetol water or oil based ? Others ? Thank you .
Use a deck cleaner when pressure washing. If you want to switch brands, you will need to strip and brighten to remove the Defy.
I made a mistake and put Thompson’s water-based sealant on top of gray paint on an exterior deck. It is beading the water well (which was my goal, along with keeping mildew/algae better at bay), but turned the paint color a dirty yellow. Is there a way to remove the deck sealant without removing the paint? Or can I paint over that sealant again with a fresh coat of paint?
No, you cannot remove the sealer only. You might be able to paint over it but best to ask the paint manufacturer.
I purchased Cabot semi-transparent stain for my deck. The person doing the work has recommended a sealer such as Flood or Thompson’s on top at a later point. From what I am reading, that is not a good idea. Am I correct?
Correct, You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain.
I have a carder deck with a oil based stain on it. I don’t like the stain as the floor feels oily and wet I have tried cleaning ect. I was thinking of removing the stain and redoing it with a water base stain not sure if this will fix the issue. To remove the oil based stain can I just sand or do I have to also use the chemical to remove it? Also what is the best way to apply the water base stain once the wood is ready?
Stripping and brightening is best. Sand after only if needed. Try Defy Extreme or Restore A Deck Stain for a quality water-based stain.
I have 2 levels decks. One is high up and one very low 5″ off the ground . I want to use oil based stain . Which one is best for the lower level deck ? And then which one to use for upper one ? Thank you.
Same stain for both. Just use a penetrating stain like TWP or Armstrong Clark.
Oh. I think I read somewhere that for lower decks one should use a different stain because of the humidity and condensation . Thank you.
No, not true.
I have used Olympic Maximum redwood naturaltone semi transparent water based stain on my deck for years. I haven’t had great luck with it lasting over 2 years. Can I switch to a different brand and also switch to a semi-solid redwood water based stain to cover the semi-transparent stain ? And what would the prep be before applying the new stain ?
Thanks for any help
No, you cannot cover it. You will need to remove is by stripping and sanding. Brightener after. When done with prep, then you can switch.
If I stay with semi-transparent just use a different brand water based stain can I just get away with pressure washing the deck and railings? Thanks for the help
Nope. You have to remove when switching brands.
Do you have a suggestion for the best stripper to remove a water based stain ?
Please post a picture of the current condition.
Really appreciate your help
Thank you
Sorry for the double pictures. Had a hard time posting them
That is not an easy strip. The coating is heavily applied to the point that is almost like a paint as it is sitting on top of the wood. You can strip some or most but you will have to power sand to get it all off.
Try Restore A Deck Stain Stripper with the Booster and Thickening Gel Additives. As I mentioned, it will not get it all off but it will give you a head start with the sanding.
Thanks again I will order the restore a deck products. Couple quick questions, have you did any tests with Sikkens deck stain ? And what’s your thoughts on products like Behr Deck Over, Cabot Deck Correct or other resurfacers ? Can they be applied without a lot of sanding ? I ask because our deck is 16’ off the ground to the top of the railing and 32’x12’ and I just cringe thinking of how long it will take to sand lol
Sikkens is not a favorite of ours: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/sikkens-srd-wood-stain-review/
See this about Deck Resurface products: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deckover-olympic-rescue-it-rust-oleum-deck-restore-do-they-work/
The only one that works well is the Gulf Deck Revive. You would not have to sand it all off.
Can I put Bondex Wood clear stain (oil based) over Bondex clear decking oil (possibly water based, that has been on the wood for a few years) without having to sand it beforehand?
No.
Thanks
Coated new tongue and groove cedar with defy extreme clear stain sealer. Home owner wished there was more of a light shine to the finish. As of now after the application of the defy product it is totally flat matte, no shine what so ever. Any ideas of how to add a satin type finish to this wood with out stripping it or Re sanding. ????? I’d like to just at some oil transparent product on top of what I have.
You can not add anything on top nor should you ever use a “shiny” type coating on exterior wood. It will peel: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/apply-polyurethane-to-a-deck/
When I say shiny I mean , oils base stain/sealer will offer a satin finish. I’m wondering if it will bond . The cedar is for a ceiling on a exterior patio
Oil-based deck stains do not leave a shiny finish. They are penetrating matte finishes. You cannot apply anything over the Defy Extreme.
Hello, I replaced some aspinite and trim on cottage that was previously stained with behr oil-latex redwood stain #9(purchased in states as no oil in canada), I’m getting different answers from many different stores that I have gone too. Home depot and others say that the water based stains that we have here will not blend in with the existing oil-latex stain already on, that it will just turn to gel and wash off, this is a very remote area so I just cant run to store after I get there…. what would you recommend in this situation?
Ty
Is the old Behr that you have a solid stain or semi-transparent? Do you have a picture?
Hi
I had installed a new treated pine fence 4 months ago and want to stain the fence. What is the difference between oil based stains (e.g. Armstrong Clark) and water based stains (Restore-A-Deck)? Advantages and Disadvantages? Also, is it recommended that you apply a sealer over the stain?
You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain. See this for info on the difference of deck stain types: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stains/
How do I tell if my current solid color wood stain on my house is oil or latex based? My painter wants to know before proceeding with a new color stain . Paint stores tell me there is no reliable test to determine what is on my house. Really? The house was first stained in the late 1960s before we bought it. wW stained it about 9 years ago but did not keep records of type of stain used.
Thanks
You cannot tell by looking at it. Oli based solid stains are pretty much non-existent these days anyhow.
Hi
I have a question about hybrid stains. I’ve had little success finding out information on how reapplication of acrylic/oil hybrid compares to an oil. I’ve been researching this for a couple days and am still just guessing. I’ve read various places how these hybrids can be the best of both worlds but I know there has to be a catch, will it need to be applied every year instead of every 2 years? or is it just harder to reapply, possibly because of a film built up?
I’m looking at specifically Pittsburgh ultra advanced semi transparent acrylic/oil penetrating stain. I have a 5 gallon bucket freshly purchased, non refundable. (I can across this site by accident after the fact) I know if i use it now, I’d have to stick with it for the future, which is fine, but if it’s involves sanding every couple years or if it will badly need a new application every spring (even with good prep) then I’ll have to cut my loss.
Hybrids are really water based. some may have an encapsulated oil, but the base is still water. Many brands that are acrylic (Like the Pittsburgh) are not true penetrating stain but filmers. This means it dries on top of the wood, not in the wood. The issue is you can have wearing and peeling more so than with an oil penetrating stain. They will also be harder to maintain in 2 years because of this.
The only water-based stains that we actually like are Defy Extreme and the Restore A Deck Wood stain as they do penetrate very well into the wood.
More than likely you will have an issue with the stain you bought.
Hi! I used a Behr oil stain on my deck. After the first rain fall, I noticed that the water doesn’t bead like it would on a water based stain. It appears that the water sits on top of the wood, and in some areas, looks like it’s actually being absorbed by the wood. Is this normal? What is water supposed to look like on an oil stain? Thanks in advance!
Yes that is normal and correct.
Can I apply a latex exterior paint over a latex semi transparent stain on my deck railing?
Do not use a paint on a deck. Use a solid color deck stain. Pressure wash for the prep.
But can I use a paint on the railing that was previously stained with a waterbased semi transparent?
Yes.
Thank you
Cedar fence installed one year ago. They stained oil based, however, it was wrong color. They went over it with darker water based stain, now, washing away in places. We are getting ready to have it re-stained due to hail damage. Any suggestions after power washing it? Will oil base penetrate or too late?
You will need to remove all and start over. Please post a picture.
We just sanded our cedar deck down to bare wood and finished with one coat of Olympic 3yr oil-based clear finish; however, we are not happy with the color. Can I apply a second coat of same exact finish, but a different color to try and darken it, realizing I may not get the exact color of the new stain? or do we have to sand again? I was thinking I might try and apply the second coat by hand using steel wool to work it into the wood?
Proabbly will need to remove and start over. Steel wool will not work.
I live in a 4 season climate and need to stain my deck every year. Last year I used an oil based stain and gave it a second coat while it was still “tacky” (like I was told) but it never dried completely and when I walked on it, every shoe print showed because it picked up the stain…. This year I stripped it down to the wood (and because I still had)restained it with the oil based stain again….. it looks awful – didn’t cover well where the bare wood was….. I’m a bit of a perfectionist so don’t like how it looks at all. Because I don’t want the same problem as last year, can I wait for the oil based stain to dry completely and then second coat it with water based same color? I’m so frustrated because it is so much work to not have a nice finished product. Thank you for your advice.
No. You will need to strip it down to fix this.
I have a large deck stained three years ago with Cabot semi-solid oil based stain. It has a good even color, flat finish and water no longer beads. What type of stain would you recommend for recoating. I have previously completely stripped, cleaned and brightened it prior to staining and would like to use cleaner/brightener without stripping.
You have to strip if switching brands. No way to just clean and cover over top of the Cabot with a different brand or type. The new coating will not dry or cure correctly.
Greetings.
I have an 18-year-old pressure-treated pine deck that was pressure-washed and resealed with a transparent honey-toned sealer in 2008 and in 2011. Don’t have the name and number of the sealer used, but it was the same both times. It was fairly inexpensive from Home Depot, and had only a 1-year guarantee, so I think it probably was water-based, but not totally sure.
After a rain, there is no beading at all on the surface, the water soaks right in.
Question: I’d like to use a top-quality oil-based transparent product, which I know is not good over a water-based product without total removal, but it has been so long and and there is obviously not any sealing strength left, so can I just pressure-wash the deck, let it dry thoroughly, and apply the oil-based sealer?
Thanks much, and great site you have.
Doc Avery
Hello, You have to strip it off down to the bare wood and then brighten after. Pressure washing alone is not enough.
I used a Behr water based stain on my Cedar deck. I have had to redo it every 2 years, it peels, not happy with it and want to switch. I have cleaned and sanded the deck, but did not use any stripper product. Can I switch to another oil or water based product? Or do I need to strip it first even though I have sanded?
All of the Behr must be removed first by stripping and or sanding before switching to the oil-based stain. Feel free to post a picture here so we can see if prepped correctly.
I stained my deck with a new product that is 100% acrylic, it’s thick and didn’t go on evenly. The deck has never been stained and I did sand and prep prior to staining. The store suggested I put an oil base over top to even out the colour. Will oil penetrate this 100% acrylic stain? I’m up to almost $300.00 so far.
Thank you
No, you cannot apply anything over this. Adding more will make the problem worse. Remove and start over is the best option.
A year ago we had a water based stain put on our deck. It lasted less than a year. 15 months later, we had the deck cleaned with pressure wash and they applied linseed oil stain. Color is horrible and they said they will reapply a different color. Can you apply linseed oil stain with same within a couple weeks???
Depends on th brand of stain. Might need to strip and start over.
I recently purchased a house with a large wooden privacy fence that was built by the previous homeowner. The fence itself is probably about 20 years old. The posts and boards are pressure treated pine and are in good shape but the lattice top is cedar and is rotting. The fence was stained with either a semi-transparent stain or an oil-latex redwood stain many years ago which is now faded. I am considering replacing the lattice top since its rotting away and then restaining the entire fence. Can you offer some recommendations? I am assuming I will need to strip it first. Should I use the stripper on the new lattice as well? I am trying to avoid having different shades of stain between the old wood and the new wood. Thanks!
Strip and brighten all for the prep. Try TWP 150 Series for this fence.
I’m in the process of purchasing a log home. The stain has not been maintained and will need to be restored. The current owner says he used Pittsburgh Ultra stain last time (an acrylic semi-transparent stain). I’d like to strip with Restore a Deck stripper and switch to TWP. Will the Ultra come off with Restore a Deck and pressure washing?
As long as the ultra was a penetrating stain (not filming like a paint), it should come off.
can you mix hybrid oil stain with latex stain
No.
Can I use an oil base stain over a water base stain that was put on the deck 13 years ago?
All the old coating must be removed if swtiching.
The old latex when sanded is her chaulky, will something like Australian timber oil go over the sanded surface or does it need to be raw wood?
Needs to be down to the bare wood.
Copy that, thanks.
Can you use flood cfw uv5 over cabet oil based stain it looks like it has disappeared an gone not happy after a few months
You would have to remove the Cabot fully first to use a different brand.
Do I have to treat a newly sanded cedar deck before applying oil based stain, or can I simply blow off the remaining dust and proceed?
We would suggest using a deck cleaner and lightly pressure wash. Apply the wood brightener after.
Our screened in porch had a Bioshield primer which is a linseed oil primer, applied about two years ago. No finish sealer was used. The wood has turned gray and black and lost it’s luster. I want to clean it up and apply a water based finish coat, like Defy Extreme stain. Is this possible?
As long as you strip off the primer. The Defy needs to soak in to work correctly.
I have a question about using primer on a deck. Can oil based primer be used first coat and then apply a coat of oil based semi solid wood stain over the primer?
I have decks that are twenty three years old . I have pressure washed and plan to sand. I used bher latex paint when advised years ago. I have painted and stripped and on and on. Until I’m sick of all the peeling and painting.
My house has oil based paint on it and is finally showing wear 23 years later!
I really would like to remedy my deck issues. Can I strip, brighten, use O/b primer and a semi solid o/ stain?
Or is the primer unnecessary?
Seems like I need some primer.
Woods in pretty good shape.
Mary
Primers will only work with solid colors or paints, not semi-solid or sem-transparents.
So if I use an oil based primer
What type solid paint can I use?
And if so… Will it last some years for me
On my deck?
Depends on the brand. Not all solid colors can be used with a primer. Deck Revive by Gulf Synthetics is a brand that requires the use of their own primer.
Good article.
We purchased a house in southern Florida. I have used a big box store stripper and cleaner plus lots of elbow grease. Not sure what product I'm stripping. I can tell I've gotten to bare wood in some spots. After reading reviews, I've decided to purchase defy extreme stain. Do I need to redo stripping and brighten it using their product or can I assume my wood is prepped. How can I test the wood to seee if it's ready to accept stain?
As long as all of the old stain has been removed, you can apply the Defy. You cannot apply the Defy over a stain of a different brand.
Sanded my pine picnic table down to bare wood. By mistake I applied Cabots latex sealer. What can I do before applying correct exterior varnish ?
Remove the Cabot first.
My deck has a coat of acrylic stain covered by a coat of oil based stain. Can i put another coat of oil based stain over this. it is not peeling, just looks patchy. If i strip it, what type of stripper do i use?
If you do, I would highly suggest using the same brand as you did last time. You were lucky that it did not peel.
I have a cedar deck which I pressure washed and striped the remaining Behr stain, and applied Re-vive on it._I let it dry and applied Sherman-William natural clear stain and put a second coat and the deck is slippery. How _do I remmeady this
I am not understanding what you did? Is the Re-vive, Deck Revive by Gulf synthetics? You cannot add a clear product over top of a deck stain or paint. Only thing to do is to sand at all off and start over. Unfortunately that is not easy to do and it might be easier to just replace the wood, if you can afford it.
I had used oil stain for years, several coats. The painter I had to do the deck 3 years ago used a water based stain. It did not penetrate, the wood is, for the first time ever, cracking and drying. It is also growing green stuff….I cannot strip this deck. Is there any dark stained oil base I can apply over?
No you cannot apply anything over this. You will need to strip or sand to remove.
I have used TWP for years and love it. I moved to another state and didn't realize the decking was either water or latex stain and applied TWP over top and of course it did not absorb but instead dried as best as it could and is now peeling off. What type of remover is best to use to remove the TWP and wherever is underneath it and can I pressure wash after applying it ? I suppose I will need to sand it too? The other decking that is just the old water or latex stain how is it best to prepare it for applying TWP? Thanks
Strip what you can with Restore A Deck Stripper and pressure washing. Sand faff the remaining of needed. Brighten the wood after the sanding. You will need to do this for both decks.
we have a unknown water base stained cedar wood kit that needs more stain, we have a Behr latex base wood
stain, can it be applied over the water base without issues?
No idea as really depends on the unknown brand and if it is compatible. Behr peels so might want to try something better.
We stained our new deck with Olympic Elite Woodland Oil (spec states: Oil modified), this was done two years ago, can we just clean the deck and put another coat of the same product on? Can we put two coats on?
You should be able to prep and apply the same. Best to follow their directions on who to reapply a maintenance coat.
I ended up using a cleaner to clean the Deck, then sanded the entire deck, yes it took time. Then cleaned again and let dry for about 48 hours. Completed staining in one full day. All looks good now.
Thanks!
wow thank you so much for this site. I'm not 100% sure but i think my deck is currently done in oil. i assume this because its been 6 years and water based wasn't very popular back then. if i wanted to go with oil again (and I'm willing to test it on some stairs around back to find out if there are problems before doing the whole deck) what do you recommend. i live in southern maryland. also if i did the oil based stain over what i assume is oil, how long before there are problems if my actual stain was water based?
Best to strip and brighten for the prep and that what way you will not have any issues. Try the TWP or Armstrong Clark Stains.
I am going to practice by using the stripper ahead of time. How much time can go by before I have to use the remaining stripper before it goes bad? Or does it not?
Stripper does not go bad.
How do one determine if decking has oil or water based stain? Is there a simple test for this?
No way to determine if it has dried. Visually we can tell for most cases based on seeing 1000\’s of decks. Feel free to post a pciture in our forum.
Use methyl hydrate on a rag and rub the stain hard. If it comes off on the rag it is latex. If not it is oil as Methyl hydrate does nothing to a oil base finish 🙂
I have a question about removing Behr water-based stain from my wood deck. I put the stain on a couple years ago and it was terrible. It is peeling off in most places but I want to remove it all before staining it again. I am going with TWP stain and asked them about their strip product. They said that most likely, their product would not remove the remaining Behr stain since it is not formulated to do that. My question then is what type of product would be good to completely remove the remaining Behr stain? I have sanded portions of the deck and it did help remove some but not all of it. Thanks for your help!
Try HD80 or the RAD stain stripper. Behr is not easily removed for any stripper due to the way it films like a paint on top of the wood. You may need repeated applications to remove.
Thanks for the response. My best bet may be just to sand a little bit more to remove the the Behr layer. After sanding, it sounds like I still would want to apply the Restore-a-Deck Brightener before I stain with the TWP. Is it preferable to use a power washer with the Brightener or is that bad for the wood prior to staining? Thanks again for the insight.
Use a cleaner and pressure wash off lightly then brighten.
Sanding and brightening should open the pores but you will need to clean as well. In order: Deck Cleaner/Light pressure washing, lightly sand and buff if needed, apply wood brightener and rinse well.
You can weather and prep the railing before install.
Have not used the Sansin water-borne, so cannot offer any advice there.
I have read many of your site articles and sub-site articles. And here is what I have derived from this research.
1. If you have a new Western Cedar deck (I do), recently finished, I should wait 4 – 12 months to allow the oils in the wood to emerge and evaporate.
2. If it has the sheen look to it (I do), from the sugar rising to the wood surface because of the manufacturers planing process I need to sand that away. After sanding use a brightener product on the wood to restore its original color.
Can I do a successful end run around this preparation in 4-12 months? Why? The contractor left me with 20 ft. long cedar boards 4 inches and 6 inches wide to stain before he assembles the rails. I have chosen to install the “sub-rails” with the 3/4 inch dia aluminum pipes powder coated black. If I follow your wisdom, and believe me I am listening, I will have a very tedious staining process down the road a few months from now around those pipes if I let the assembled deck “season” for while. :-))) Some of the advice I have read suggests this may be possible because sanding and a brightener could be enough to open the wood pores sufficiently?
Next question.Miller paint stores in my area carry a new water-borne wood finish product for decks by the name of Sansin enviro stain. I am interested in using the “Natural Sundance” tone which I interpret to be a transparent stain close to the color of Teak. It is a step up in price and I assume may help me do a good job of making my end run. :-))) However, I will wait tedious, as difficult as that that seems now, if I have to.
Thanks so much in advance for your suggestions. You have great site here. Johnny B
Hi. If I have a water based stain and, to avoid stripping, want to apply a different water based stain, will that be an issue? By different I mean different brand and similar or darker color. What we used was discontinued, probably due to poor results. It was a new line from a quality manufacturer. Thanks for the help!
You should always strip and remove when switching brands. If you do not then you run the risk of premature failure based on the old coating.
If a customer sticks with the same brand with the same oil application each time, can you apply after cleaning it or do you need to strip it up and start over. For example, a re-seal every two years with TWP 1500. Can it be applied over the existing sealer or will that cause it to not absorb well. Dos the previous application need to be removed?
TWP cannot be cleaned and prepped as needed and stained with the same. It does not have to be stripped but can be easily.
I have some old decks that need staining. They have an old stain on them, I have no idea if its oil based.
I don't want to get involved with stripping, as ive never done it before.
Would a good sanding and pressure wash be sufficient for a new acrylic solid stain to adhere to the old decks?
I was thinking about using Flood with its oil based primer based in its formula.
Also, the stain color will be different than the one already on the deck, will this be a problem?
Thanks
That depends on the brand you are using. Some will say yes and others no. If you do not remove fully then you can be subject to the old coating failing under your new coating. Does not matter on the color hone using a solid stain as it will mask the old coatings.
Your site is very helpful. Many thanks. We live in New York. Our pressure treated wood deck is 3 (the upper) and 15 (the lower level) years old. It has NE exposure with a really strong sun until early afternoon and a dense shade after that. 2 years ago we stained it with Arborcoat as a less toxic alternative (- we have 2 dogs and an organic garden, thus we like to avoid chemicals as much as possible). The deck looked really good for a couple of months. The winter made the stain basically peel off except on the vertical surfaces. We are ready to restain it. It got scrubbed with a light bleach solution, pressure washed and lightly sanded. A few spots still have a 2-year old thin coat of Arbor. We were going to use Superdeck. But then I saw you often recommend Defy. Would that be a better choice? Can we use it without using the stripping chemicals first? Thanks in advance.
You cannot put any stain on the Arborcoat without removing fully first. Either sand it all off or strip. Once removed you can use a product like the Defy.
We have a new driveway gate with a painted steel frame and cedar boards mounted vertical in the frame. Do we need to use any type of cleaner on this NEW wood.
I was surprised to learn, that it was not recommend to put water base stain over an oil base finish without a serious preparation, but your logic makes sense to me. If it still repels water, a water base product will not last.
Please read this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thanks
I have a water based stain on pressure treated timbers and plan to recoat with oil based TWP stain. I have sanded the timbers with a power sander until most (if not all ) of the stain and graying wood have disappeared. Is this sufficient, or do I need to wash and brighten the timbers as well before staining with the TWP?
All of the stain should be remove so you might need to strip and brighten for the prep now. Shoot for 95% removal of the old coating.
If a customer sticks with the same brand with the same oil application each time, can you apply after cleaning it or do you need to strip it up and start over. For example, a re-seal every two years with TWP 1500. Can it be applied over the existing sealer or will that cause it to not absorb well. Dos the previous application need to be removed?
As a rule of thumb if water is not repelling anymore u can re apply same product, but if water is still being repelled then u wait or strip and brighten. Good test is to sprinkle water on deck and see what happens and try this in several areas as under eves will sometimes still be repelling,
I applied a oil enriched solid laytex stain and did all the prep work as it says it is peeling everywhere. I was given 5 gallons almost exactly the same color but it is a oil based stain. Will I be able to apply oil over a oil enriched latex stain?
You cannot apply an oil on top of a water based stain.
If going from an oil base stain that has failed within 1 year – poor application (splotchy) and lightened significantly – to use another oil based product – do I need to strip. If not, should I use a cleaner first them re-stain?
Jim, when switching brands you should strip and brighten for the prep.