Hi, I’m Scott Paul, a licensed exterior restoration contractor with over 30 years of experience and 10,000+ deck restorations. This guide to staining a wood fence is based on my own hands-on field testing, not manufacturer claims. See my full credentials and testing stats here.
How to stain a wood fence comes down to three things: clean wood, the right stain, and applying it board by board so you never get lap marks. Wood fences add privacy and curb appeal, but bare wood grays, cracks, and grows mildew within a few years. A quality penetrating stain protects the fence from sun and water and brings back the natural color of the wood. This guide covers the exact process I use, the stains I recommend, and the mistakes I see most often.
- Clean with a wood cleaner, or a stripper if old stain is peeling, then apply a brightener.
- Let the fence dry for 48 hours before staining.
- Stain in the shade, top down, and carry each board end to end to avoid lap marks.
- The fastest good method is a pump sprayer followed by back brushing.
- New smooth pressure treated wood needs 3 to 4 months of weathering first. Rough sawn wood can be stained right away.
- Fence stain lasts 3 to 5 years, about twice as long as on a deck floor.
In this guide:
- When to Stain a Wood Fence
- Tools and Materials
- How to Stain a Wood Fence in 8 Steps
- Staining a Fence With a Brush, Sprayer, or Roller
- Best Wood Fence Stains
- Staining a Pressure Treated Fence
- How Long Does Fence Stain Last?
- Can You Use Fence Stain on Decking?
- Wood Fence Staining FAQ
When to Stain a Wood Fence
Staining a wood fence works best on a dry stretch of weather between about 50 and 90 degrees F, with no rain in the forecast for 24 to 48 hours. Plan to stain in the shade or on overcast days. Fence boards in direct sun can get far hotter than the air, which makes stain flash dry before it soaks in.
New wood needs some time first. Smooth milled boards should weather for 3 to 4 months so the mill glaze breaks down and the wood can absorb stain. Rough sawn boards can be stained as soon as they are clean and dry.
Tools and Materials
- Wood cleaner, or a stain stripper if old stain is peeling
- Wood brightener to neutralize the cleaner and open the pores
- Pump sprayer for cleaners and, if you choose, for stain
- Stiff scrub brush and a pressure washer with a fan tip, used at low pressure
- Stain brush or stain pad for back brushing
- Plastic sheeting and painter’s tape to protect plants, windows, and concrete
- Penetrating fence stain, enough for both sides if you can reach them. The fence stain estimator calculates gallons from length, height, and wood condition.
How to Stain a Wood Fence in 8 Steps
- Protect the area. Cover plants, windows, concrete, and anything else near the fence with plastic, especially if you will use a sprayer. Overspray travels farther than most people expect, and oil stain is hard to remove from glass and masonry once it dries.
- Clean or strip the fence. Apply a wood cleaner to remove dirt, gray fibers, and mildew. If the fence has an old stain that is peeling or uneven, use a stain stripper instead. Let it dwell as the label directs, scrub, and rinse with a pressure washer at low pressure or a garden hose.
- Brighten the wood. While the fence is still wet, apply a wood brightener. It neutralizes the cleaner, restores the natural pH of the wood, and helps the new stain penetrate. Let it dwell, then rinse with fresh water.
- Let the fence dry. Wait at least 48 hours of dry weather. Stain applied to damp wood will not absorb and is likely to fail early.
- Mix the stain. If you are using more than one container, combine them in one bucket so the color stays consistent across the whole fence, and stir regularly throughout the day.
- Apply the stain. Work in the shade, starting at the top of each section and working down. Stain each board from end to end before moving to the next, which is the single best way to prevent lap marks. Use a brush, stain pad, roller, or sprayer.
- Back brush the excess. Apply only as much stain as the wood will absorb. Brush sprayed or rolled stain into the grain, and wipe or brush out any stain that pools or does not soak in. With fence stain, more is not better.
- Apply a second coat if needed. Rough sawn fences and some stain brands call for a second coat applied wet on wet, before the first coat dries. Follow the label, then let the fence cure for 24 to 48 hours before sprinklers hit it.
Staining a Fence With a Brush, Sprayer, or Roller
Staining a fence with a brush gives the best penetration but is the slowest method. Most of my crews spray and then back brush, which combines speed with the penetration of brushing.
| Method | Speed | Penetration | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brush | Slow | Best | Short fences, rough sawn boards, detail work |
| Pump sprayer plus back brush | Fast | Very good | Most fences, especially long runs |
| Airless sprayer plus back brush | Fastest | Very good | Large fences, experienced DIYers |
| Roller or stain pad | Medium | Good on smooth boards | Smooth board fences, flat panels |
Best Wood Fence Stains
The best wood fence stain is a penetrating stain with enough pigment to block UV. These are the fence stains I recommend. For the full test results and longevity rankings, see my guide to which fence stain lasts the longest.
TWP 1500 Series
TWP 1500 is an oil based semi transparent stain with strong mildew resistance, which makes it a good fit for shaded fence lines. It is compliant in all 50 states but not sold in Canada. See TWP 1500 Series.
Armstrong Clark
Armstrong Clark penetrates deeply and wears away gradually, so maintenance coats on a fence are simple. At 50 VOC, it is compliant in all 50 states and Canada. See Armstrong Clark.
Restore A Deck Semi Transparent
Restore A Deck Semi Transparent is a water based stain that dries quickly and cleans up with soap and water, a good choice for DIYers who want low odor. See Restore A Deck Semi Transparent.
TWP Semi Solid
TWP Semi Solid carries more pigment, hides uneven or weathered boards, and gives the longest UV protection of the penetrating stains. It comes in 30 colors, including modern grays and charcoal. See TWP Semi Solid.
Staining a Pressure Treated Fence
Staining a pressure treated fence takes patience, because new treated lumber is still wet from the treatment process. Smooth pressure treated boards should weather for 3 to 4 months before staining. To check, sprinkle water on a board. If it beads up, the wood is not ready. If it soaks in, clean and brighten the fence and stain it. Waiting too long has a cost too, because a year of sun leaves the wood gray and harder to bring back.
How Long Does Fence Stain Last?
Fence stain lasts 3 to 5 years with a quality penetrating product, roughly twice as long as the same stain on a deck floor. Fences are vertical, so water runs off, and they never take foot traffic. South and west facing sections fade first. When the color lightens and water stops beading, a light cleaning and one maintenance coat is all the fence needs.
Can You Use Fence Stain on Decking?
Fence stain on decking works only if the product is rated for decks. Penetrating stains like TWP 1500 and Armstrong Clark are made for both and work well on a deck floor. Cheap fence only stains are thin, low in solids, and wear out quickly under foot traffic, so check the label before using leftover fence stain on a deck.
Wood Fence Staining FAQ
How do you stain a wood fence?
Clean the fence with a wood cleaner, apply a brightener, and let it dry for 48 hours. Then apply a penetrating fence stain board by board from end to end, back brush any excess, and add a second coat wet on wet if the label calls for it.
What is the best way to stain a fence?
A pump sprayer followed by back brushing is the fastest method that still gives even penetration. A brush alone gives the best penetration but takes much longer. Always work in the shade and stain each board end to end to avoid lap marks.
Can you stain a pressure treated fence?
Yes. New pressure treated wood needs to dry first. Smooth boards should weather for 3 to 4 months, then be cleaned and brightened before staining. If water soaks in rather than beading, the wood is ready.
Should you stain both sides of a fence?
Yes, when you can. Staining both sides protects the wood evenly and reduces warping, cracking, and mildew on the unstained side.
How long does fence stain last?
A quality penetrating stain lasts 3 to 5 years on a fence, roughly twice as long as on a deck floor, because fences are vertical, shed water, and take no foot traffic.
Can you use fence stain on decking?
Only if the stain is rated for decks. Penetrating stains like TWP 1500 and Armstrong Clark work on both. Thin fence only stains wear out quickly under foot traffic.
How to Stain a Wood Fence Video
Have a Question About Staining Your Fence? Ask Below
Leave a comment with your question, and include a photo of your fence if you can. I answer most questions within a day.
We installed this cedar gate/fence (see attached) last September and would now like to stain with your oil based wood stain. We waited so the wood could be exposed before staining. Do you feel it necessary to do any prep before we stain, i.e sanding etc?
No picture.
Picture of fence gate attached.
Yes, you will have to prep this.
What type of prep do you recommend?
Deck cleaner and then a wood brightener.
I am confused. I have read so much conflicting information, even some on this site on various pages, and on other wood care sites . Statements like :
Western Red Cedar (fence materials) does not need to age/weather before staining
Kiln dried and rough cut woods do not need to weather before staining
(is western red cedar fencing rough cut??)
Western Red Cedar should be treated like any other wood
Western Red Cedar requires special application and stains
TWP 100 is great for fencing (I have used it on decks and love it)
TWP 100 should not be used on new wood (????)
Let Fence Material weather for 1 month before staining
Let fence material weather at least 4 months before staining
Western Red Cedar has natural oils that deter mold, algae, insects
Western Red Cedar needs protection against mold and algae
Western Red Cedar has natural protection from UV damage
Western Red Cedar stains should have UV protection for the wood.
Also, read we should NEVER use water based stains on Western Red Cedar, and to use an oil based because of the naturaly oils in Western Red Cedar. Another site actually recommended the opposite!!!
My wife and I want to maintain as close as possible the “brand new milled” look of Western Red Cedar, which implies we need a clear, or at the most semitransparent stain. Would/should we use one with added UV, mold, algae protection? We live in the Pacific Northwest north of Seattle and it rains/cloudy days almost 8 or 9 months of the year!!
So confused about which product AND WHEN to apply — if I don’t do it in the next 2 weeks, I will have to wait until June or July of next year.
Can you sort through all this confusion: again, western red cedar fence…not a deck.
You must weather the new wood, prep and stain with a semi-transparent stain to protect the WRC from mildew, mold, UV graying, etc.
A clear will not provide any UV protection from graying. Read here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
If the wood is new then you will need to wait until next year. It does not matter if oil or water-based as long as it is a penetrating stain.
THANK YOU
We are preparing to stain a one year old PT pine fence for the first time (for the fence and for us:-). We plan to use the cleaner, brightener, RAD semi-transparent stain. Half of the fence is shadow box and the other half is board on board. In what order should we proceed? Would it be best to prep both sides completely before starting to stain? If we clean and then brighten the whole fence before starting to stain and it has dried, do we just dampen the wood with the hose before starting to stain. Should we do all the inside first and then the back side or do one section at a time front and back then proceed to the next section? My concern is some stain going through the spaces in the shadow box and getting on the back side of the fence and drying before we get to that side if we don’t do front and back in sections since I understand it must be applied wet on wet.
The fence is 220′ x 6′. I ordered 20 gallon but if we run short on stain and have to order more, how long can we go between the prep and staining? Would it be better to get one coat on the back side if not enough left for 2 coats and then come back later for a second coat or leave a portion with no stain until it comes in? I’m not concerned about the appearance of the back side as no one sees it….I’m only concerned with protection for it. With that in mind is the second coat for appearance only? Would one coat give the protection needed since cost is a factor? What is the minimum amount of time to wait if a first coat dries before adding a 2nd coat? Thank you for any advice.
Apply cleaner and pressure wash off. Rinse and apply brightener. Stain after. Prep all before staining. Do in sections when staining. One section and then the backside before moving on. Stain within a couple of weeks of prep. If longer then just lightly pressure wash for prep. If doing a second coat it has to be done wet on wet or within an hour of the first. You cannot apply a another coat weeks after the first. A second coat is needed for appearance and protection.
We have a fence that has only been up for 6 months. Do we need to use cleaner and brightener first or can we just go over it with brush and/or power washer to remove dust that may have accumulated?
Use the cleaner and a brightener while pressure washing.
how is the brightener and cleaner used in conjunction with pressure washing?
Staining has been delayed and now it appears that spring will come before we get enough dry days to complete the project. Dark stains have developed where nails have been used. Will using the cleaner/brightener and then semi transparent cedar stain make them disappear/less noticeable?
The dark stains around the nails are rust. You apply the cleaner and then pressure wash off. Same with the brightener. The brightener may remove the rust stains but they will come back when the nails/screws start to rust again from rain, etc