Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior wood cleaning. My Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper review is based on my history as a wood restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing, all designed to present you with the top deck stain choices. See here for more info about me.
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper earned a 9.4 out of 10 overall rating, making it one of the highest-scoring strippers tested on DeckStainHelp.com.
- At under $8 per gallon mixed, the powdered concentrate covers up to 1,000 square feet per 2-pound container, offering outstanding value for larger projects.
- The stripper removed over 95% of TWP 100 Series stain from an 800 square foot cedar deck, with full coverage achieved in under 10 minutes using a pump sprayer.
- A wood brightener is required after stripping to neutralize the wood, an essential step before applying any new deck stain.
9.4 Overall Rating Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper
Restore-A-Deck Deck Stain Stripper is a concentrated, powdered wood stripper designed to be mixed with water and applied using a sprayer or injection system. It is formulated to remove old stains and coatings more effectively than many ready-to-use, consumer-grade products.
From my experience restoring decks since 1993, powdered strippers like this tend to perform better than pre-mixed options because they are stronger and more cost-effective for larger projects. When used correctly, they can remove a wide range of coatings and prepare the wood properly for new stain.
Overall, Restore-A-Deck Injectable Stripper is a solid option for homeowners and contractors who want a stronger, more reliable stripping solution.
🔹 Restore-A-Deck Deck Stain Stripper – Quick Verdict
- Best For: Removing old stains and prepping decks for refinishing
- Not Ideal For: Light cleaning or maintenance work
- Type: Powdered, mixable wood stripper
- My Overall Rating: 9.4/10
My Take:
Restore-A-Deck Stripper is a strong and effective option that performs better than most ready-to-use products. It requires proper mixing and application but delivers good results when used correctly.
Note: There are 2 new additives for the RAD Stain Stripper. The Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper Booster and the Restore-A-Deck Thickening Gel. These products will increase the overall effectiveness of your stain stripping. These two additives greatly enhance the removal and ease of your stain-stripping project.
See here for more info:
Restore-A-Deck Stripper Booster and Thickening Gel Additives
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper is a biodegradable, powdered concentrate that quickly removes worn finishes to restore wood surfaces. It removes stains, coatings, collected dirt, mold, mildew, and mill glaze.
The Restore A Deck system is a multistep deck cleaning system, and the best results are achieved when using all 3 products. This product is Step 1 Stripper of the Restore A Deck system and can be substituted for or used after Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner.
The Restore-A-Deck Deck Stain Stripper needs to be neutralized with a wood brightener.
How I Rated Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper
My Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper review contains a 5-step process and the final average score. Each step is on a scale of 1-10.
- Removal of Graying and Dirt
- Cost Per Square Foot
- Removal of Old Stain
- Ease of Application
- Final Appearance after Cleaning
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper Final Score
5-Step Review of Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper
1. Removal of Graying, Dirt, Grime: 9
The RAD stripper easily cuts through the dirt. All mold was removed from the deck.
2. Cost Per Square Foot: 10
Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper covers up to 1000 sq. feet for 2 pounds, $39.99 a bottle. The RAD stain stripper is a bargain to use for the cost! Less than $8 per gallon when mixed with water.
3. Removal of Old Stain: 9
The Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper was used to remove a buildup of TWP 100 Series stain. The stripper was very effective at removing over 95% of the TWP. There was a little difficulty in a spot where a doormat had sat there for years. We applied the RAD stripper to this spot with the pump sprayer and it came off easily.
4. Ease of Application: 10
The RAD Deck Stain Stripper in the 2-pound container mixes with 5 gallons of water. We tested the stripper by using a pump sprayer for application. We covered our 800 sq foot deck in less than 10 minutes. We needed most of the 5 gallons to do this.
5. Final Appearance of Stripping: 9
Great at removing our semi-transparent stain. We needed a wood brightener to neutralize as the RAD stripper is extremely strong.
Overall Score Restore-A-Deck Deck Stain Stripper: 9.4
It’s great at removing stains, easily applied, and costs pennies a square foot! This is our highest score to date. Other deck stain strippers are just as effective, but we like the option of injecting the stripper.
Product Information:
Manufacturer: Restore-A-Deck
Product Type: Powdered Concentrate Deck Stain Stripper
Available Sizes: 2 Pound Container Makes 5 Liquid Gallons
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coverage Per Container: 750-1000 sq. ft
Application Tools: Scrub Brush, Pressure Washer, Pump Sprayer.
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Cedar
Deck Square Footage: 800
The condition of Deck: 2-year-old TWP Stain was removed
How Much Product Used: 2 Pounds. Retails for $39.99 with Free shipping.
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Consider that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
How To Strip With Restore-A-Deck Stripper – DeckStainHelp.com

🔹 Restore-A-Deck Deck Stain Stripper – Pros and Cons
Pros
- Stronger than most consumer-grade, ready-to-use strippers
- Cost-effective for larger projects
- Works well on many types of deck stains
- Can be applied with sprayers or injection systems
- Good balance of strength and usability
Cons
- Requires mixing and proper dilution
- May require multiple applications depending on buildup
- Needs proper rinsing and follow-up brightening
🔹 Best Uses for Restore-A-Deck Stripper
- Removing semi-transparent and semi-solid stains
- Prepping decks for refinishing
- Medium to large deck restoration projects
- Situations where stronger performance is needed than ready-to-use products
Not Ideal For:
- Heavy paint or thick solid stain removal
- Light maintenance cleaning
- Quick, small touch-up jobs
🔹 Application Tips
- Mix according to instructions for proper strength
- Apply evenly using a sprayer or brush
- Allow proper dwell time
- Agitate if needed and rinse thoroughly
- Always follow with a brightener
👉 How to Prep a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
🔹 Maintenance & Prep Importance
Using a quality stripper like this helps ensure better staining results.
- Removes old coatings for better stain penetration
- Reduces the chance of uneven color or blotching
- Always neutralize the wood after stripping
From my experience, a stronger, properly used stripper will save time and improve the final finish.
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔹 Who Should Use Restore-A-Deck Stripper?
You should consider Restore-A-Deck Deck Stain Stripper if:
- You are preparing a deck for refinishing
- Your deck has moderate stain buildup
- You want a stronger alternative to ready-to-use products
- You are working on a medium or large project
You may want to consider other options if:
- You are removing heavy paint or solid coatings
- You need a more aggressive gel-based stripper
- You are only doing light cleaning
👉 Best Deck Stains
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
🔹 Restore-A-Deck Deck Stain Stripper – FAQs
Is Restore-A-Deck Stripper stronger than ready-to-use strippers?
Yes, it is generally stronger and more effective than most pre-mixed options.
Do you need to use a brightener after stripping?
Yes, brightening is required to neutralize the wood and prepare it for staining.
How many applications are needed?
It depends on the condition of the wood and the type of stain being removed.
Is it good for large deck projects?
Yes, it is cost-effective and performs well on larger areas.
Is it easy to use?
It requires mixing and proper application, but is straightforward once set up correctly.
🔹 Restore-A-Deck Deck Stain Stripper – Final Thoughts
Restore-A-Deck Deck Stain Stripper is a strong, effective option for removing old stains and preparing wood for refinishing. It performs better than most consumer-grade strippers and offers good value for larger projects.
From my hands-on experience, using a powdered stripper like this provides better results and efficiency compared to weaker, ready-to-use products.
If you are tackling a deck restoration project and need something more reliable than basic strippers, this is a solid choice. For heavier coatings or paint removal, a more aggressive product may still be needed.




This was an excellent product to remove the water based semi transparent stain that I used on a one year old cedar deck.
The application was easy; the removal was better than I thought it would be and clean up was easy.
Any stripping process is going to take some work but this product wasn’t that bad.
I didn’t take before pics but I will submit some after pics in the Brightener section.
Thanks for your feedback!
Now that I finished my deck project I thought I’d submit a review of the RAD products. My 500 sqft deck was stained with Pennofin back in 2010 then completely neglected since then. And I mean “completely” neglected. I didn’t have very high expectations coming into the project.
I couldn’t be happier with the results. I used RAD stripper and brightener kit for the project. This is industrial strength stuff so I took all the safety warnings seriously. I wore long sleeves, rubber gloves, painters mask and eye protection. I applied the stripper to 3/4 of the deck via sprayer before it clogged, then applied it via brush the last 1/4. After 30 minutes I rinsed it off with a 1600 PSI pressure washer using the green nozzel. It ended up removing 95+ % of the old stain.
After applying brightener to the whole deck I wasn’t completely satisfied how the brush application section turned out so I took another pass at it with the stripper. Then via a suggestion to a question I submitted earlier in this thread I applied another application of brightener to the whole deck and let it dry into the wood. Fantastic results. I ended up staining it with TWP Honeytone.
Before, stripping/brightening, and after photos tell the story.
Looks great!!
I just posted a question as to how to remove Pennofin from a teak deck and restore it. Yours looks amazing. I know it has been 7 years since you wrote this review, but would you still recommend the RAD stripper and brightener kit?
Yes, that will work well to remove the Penofin.
I stripped an 850 sq ft cedar deck with the RAD stripping kit with excellent results. I mixed the stripper at 1/2 pound per gallon in a pump sprayer. The four gallons (two pound bag) turned the Cabot 3000 stain into goo within 30 minutes, and with the aid of a pressure washer, removed 99% of the failed and peeling stain. After stripping, I neutralized with part 2 of the kit with equally impressive results. As an aside, I had a local quotation of $2550 to strip and re-stain my deck. Do the math; RAD stripper is a bargain and does a fantastic job.
Can this product be used to remove stain from Jarrah wood furniture?
That varies based on the stain brand/type, not the wood. Do you know the stain brand and type? Pics would help.
I have a deck by the driveway that has had the wood replaced on the flooring and railings in October 2025. It is past time to get the bare wood (pressure treated) covered. As you can see from the pictures, the base and uprights still have old Behr Premium semi-transparent, water-base stain on them. I would like to strip the Behr stain and have the whole deck coated with an Armstrong-Clark stain. I am not sure of all the prep products that I will need to complete this. I have read your columns about RAD stripper, booster, gel, brightener, and cleaner products. Do I need all of these products to prep my deck properly and, estimating from the pictures, do I need only one bag of each?
If I don’t use the stripper, I know I will have a two-tone deck, which I do not want. Also, will the stripper do damage to the black wire mesh paint? If I get this done by a professional, what equipment will they need, like pressure washer @ 1,500 PSI, etc.? Please give advice on the prep products that I will need, and the sequence for application and any timeline you would follow. I realize there are a lot of questions here. Sorry! Thanks.
Since you’re stripping old Behr stain to switch over to Armstrong Clark, you want the RAD Stain Stripper, not the Cleaner — Behr can be stubborn, so add the Booster, and add the Gel additive too for the uprights and railings so it clings instead of running down. Brighten after, regardless of what color you’re going to next — it neutralizes the stripper and reopens the wood pores before staining. One of each will work. The stripper won’t hurt vinyl siding, but treat the black wire mesh and any powder-coated aluminum with care — pre-wet it, rinse it off promptly so nothing sits and dries, and if any does dry on there, a water-based graffiti remover like Goof Off will take it off (test a small spot first). For equipment, go gas over electric on the pressure washer — electrics don’t have the GPM to properly rinse the prep products off, regardless of PSI rating.
For the new floors, see here. You will need a bag of the RAD Cleaner.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/pre-staining-new-wood-decks-before-install/
Does the Restore a deck stripper damage vinyl siding if it gets on it?
It should not but always prewet and rinse any over spray while working.
Will the restore a deck stripper for wood damage intl siding?
What do you mean by “intl” siding?
Best method to remove several layers of latex stain from my pressure treated deck
See this for tips and produc suggestions: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
A year ago in September, we had our deck rebuilt by a local firm with cedar, it came out Amazing. It had a great smell and looked good unstained, however I was on a mission to protect it. What I chose post a recommendation to coat it was *****sons. It looked good at first, but after one winter it pealed in chunks and after a pressure wash that removed most but not all, the deck now looks like a “Rat Rod”. Rat Rod’s might be cool, but that look is not for my deck.
After looking at your product lines, I have an understanding and a guess as to what your recommendations might be. I look forward to seeing your response as to how to move forward and protect our deck in the most transparent/natural color, so the cedar shines through.
Thanks in advance!
You still have stain to remove, so strip and brighten for prep using the RAD Kits:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
Once removed, use a light-tinted semi-transparent stain such as Restore-A-Deck in Natural, TWP 1515 Honeytone, or Armstrong Clark in Amber.
Thanks Scott!
I need some advice on restoring a 15-year-old teak deck. It was cleaned and brightened with various products over the years, and oiled with Penofin oil, which still has some residue on it. I need advice on what products would be the best to clean, brighten, and what finish product would be the best to use to restore the beautiful color of the teak. Please help. It is a large deck and I would love to hire someone to do it, but have not found a contractor. I can do it myself with the right product. I am not sure if Restore-A-Deck is the right product for teak that has oil residue on it.
Yes, it is.
thank you for all your info. we plan to us the restore-a-deck stripper and
brightener products. w want to wait on our decision fr restraining until after we see the results f the stripping and brightening. how quickly do we need to make that decision and finish the project ?
Stain within a couple of weeks of the prep.
I have a large pergola that needed some rotten wood ( cedar) replaced. I now have the new wood mixed with the old stained wood ( sikkens).
My paint crew power washed it with bleach and will further sand some mildew off. After reading your articles, is it necessary to remove the old stain if I plan on going back with semi solid. I know they did not plan on this.
thx
Yes, remove the current stain fully first.
Thanks so much. Very informative articles and advice. Now… water or oil based stain? I live on the Texas coast; hot and humid climate.
Oil if semi-solid:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-solid-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
Contrator mistakenly USED 2 coats of ARMSTRONG OIL bast semi-transparant deck stain on 2 week old, new redwood deck & Immediately got foot prints & sap seepage.
It’s now about 1 month old & looks HORRIBLE.
Contractor now wants to scrub it with soapy water, weather the wood for 2 months & then re-stain with WATER base semi-trans stain. Will that work please?
No, you need to strip it off and then brighten. Then properly weather it for 3 or months.
Can I use this product to cleaning an IPE deck?
Dp you know what stain brand is on the deck currently?
Yes, Cabot Australian timber oil
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Make sure to brighten after.
I used this product before stain/seal with Armstrong Clark (natural) last year. Worked great & really like AC! In prep for adding railings this year I reapplied AC to the ends most exposed to sun. All well. However, I made huge mistake in building the railings. I used galvanized goat panels & had to do final metal trimming to fit up on the deck surface. Well…long story short…that area is black (fortunately did all cutting in this end). Tons of rain since then so all those virtually invisible pieces of metal that I didn’t get swept away when dry have produced dark staining. I’ve been trying to sand & then use a product that some said would get stain out but it doesn’t, it did make a very minimal change tho. Will Restore a Deck get that stain out? Seems fighting uphill battle as anything that uses water just causes it to come back. Maybe its heavy sanding & using compressor to blow dust off cause that dust contains the particles & just seems to be spreading the problem. Maybe I will have to resort to replacing boards. Can’t turn them over, Any suggestions appreciated as need to remedy boards on that end before can put up final railing. I really don’t want a colored stain to try covering it up. Too much other wood invested in the natural & no time for re-doing all of it. Thanks!
Post some picks. It might be metal that has rusted in your wood.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/remove-rust-black-stains-from-deck/
Sounds like brightener will do it. Yes, its the metal flakes that have rusted. Screws are fine. Rest of deck is fine. Because wood has the armstrong clark on it assume I need to use the stripper first then the brightener? Or cleaner then brightener?. Brightener only? Thinking I need to get down to bare wood to get rid of all that metal dust. Doesn’t help that it kept getting walked on & then thoroughly soaked into the wood. Just wanting to confirm what combo I need to order. Thanks so much. I hadn’t been able to find the rust document.
Brightener only should work and then a good pressure wash rinse.
Wish I had found this site before I purchased a Cabot semi-solid New Redwood stain. The color is much darker than anticipated. Will this product be effective at removing a semi-solid stain? In addition, is it easier to remove a semi-solid stain sooner after staining (as opposed to waiting until next year to remove)?
Semi solids are one of the hardest to remove. You may need a paint stripper. Post some pics.
The intent was to match or compliment the base slats, but the final color of the stain is not really close to the sample color that I was shown
That is more of a solid opaque stain in appearance. A deck stain stripper will not remove it. See here for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Thanks for the advice Scott
You are welcome. If you do not want to strip, you could coat over it with a solid stain color that you like better.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Why does my stripping solution seem to dry so quickly. I am constantly having to reapply. I’m about to use a gallon on one little spot
Mist it with water while working to keep it from drying out. Very easy.
I have a rental cabin that was purchased 1 yr ago. At time of purchase, prior owners had deck restained. I am not sure of the product probably sikkens. seems like just within 1 yr, the deck showing a lot of wear and I want to restore. If I just use the RAD stripper, booster and thickening gel.
It is too thick to use a regular stain stripper, almost like a shellac. You would have to use this product to remove it.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel-review/
Anything you do not want to be stripped will have to be covered as you will need to pressure wash it all off.
Is it possible not to strip it but just add a solid or semisolid stain directly on top after power washing? What product would you recommend?
Yes, if you want to use a solid stain, not a semi-solid.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Looking at my pictures, would there be a stain you recommend to hide the footprints that get on deck? I think they footprints from the gravel road are light in color. I was thinking perhaps using a lighter colored stain might be better. This would then probably require the full stripping using the RAD paint strip you mentioned.(thanks again for all your help!)
You can use a light-colored solid stain and that would not show the footprints as much.
I messaged RAD compnay and they were of the opinion that it would be difficult to protect verticals from the gel/powerwash off even with tape/tarping. What is your opinion?
I think the verticals are in good condition and would like to keep as is. Having to strip and restain the skirting, rails, cabin body would add alot of cost of materials and labor. hoping for your suggestions on how to get around this.
Yes, nearly impossible to just strip the floors and not remove some on the verticals. You could just power sand the floors.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
what pressure washer are you using and gun?
We are not understanding your question. The pressure washer brand and the gun has no bearing.
How do you repair a tacky or sticky Penofin stain application on deck?
Strip it off first and then brighten it. Use the Restore a Deck Kits.
We live in northern Michigan and need some advice on the best way to remove this 4 year old deck stain. We used a Valspar semi-transparent stain; however, it appears to look more like a solid? Perhaps because the deck sits in full shade so it doesn’t get any sun fading or damage.
Anyway, we’ve tried a couple different deck strippers (Valspar and Flood) with little to no effect. Do you think the RAD stripper with the additives would be effective at stripping this stain or are we better off renting a floor sander?
RAD Stripper with both additives and pressure washing should remove much of this but sanding may be needed to remove all. Apply stripper and let dwell for 45-60 minutes (mist to keep from drying out) and then pressure wash off.
About 3 years ago we used Behr Deck Restore on our deck and steps and landing into our home. It has been peeling and unsightly since the beginning.
We are trying to restain, but need to remove the old first. Some of the areas are not coming off with just the power washer. What can we or should we use to remove it. The associate at Home Depot said to use Citri Strip. I am hesitant to use that at $26.00 a half gallon. Help please!!!
The only way to remove effectively is to power sand it all off.
Hi. This is what I have. Unfortunately I’m not sure how old the deck is but I believe stain was applied in 2020 by the previous owner. Would RAD stripper remove this?
Most likley but use both RAD Stripper additives as well.
Please help recommend the best product/procedure for removing Storm 4 solid acrylic stain from my deck. Thank you!
You will need to power sand to remove a solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Thank you for your expert advice! I figured this would be a time-consuming project.
If you have railings, consider a two-toned deck: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
We just applied Ready Seal natural semi-transparent to our 9 month old redwood fence in California. It looks horrible (turned orange). Can we strip it and start over?
Yes, use the RAD Stripper and then the Brightener.
Ok, I am back with a new plan for my deck. So, no oil. We are planning on using Restore-A-Deck “system”. Today I read your review. What is confusing, is that you are saying to use 3 products. #1 Stripper, #2 would be a brightener to “neutralize the stripper” I don’t see this product on your and when I did a search I it came up empty. I did find it on google. Am I missing something here? #3 The actual stain.
So it would look like this:
? #1 Red label- cleaner. I already cleaned the deck
#2 Purple label- Stripper. I need this
#3 Blue label-Brightener, to neutralize the stripper. I need this
#4 Green Label- Stain. Yes, this too.
Ok thanks so much for your previous reply about my problem deck.
Sally
No need to clean if using a stripper. The rest is correct.
Ok more questions. Sorry.
>So I am reading the label on the #1 Stripper. It says to avoid application in direct sunlight. My deck is in the sun, does this mean I can’t use the stripper?
> I see it says that the stripper does not strip paint, solid opaque stains or other firm-forming surface coatings. I am under the impression that Restor-A-Deck will adhere to these coatings though. Is this correct? My purchasing it was because it will adhere to oil products.
>Last question, When I cleaned the deck, I scrubbed it with a hard brush and dislodged loose old stains on different parts. Do I need to use a stripper at this point? A lot of the wood is raw as the old stain was scrubbed off. If in the end, I have to sand it, do I need to use step 1 and 2?
If the wood is raw in parts because I scrubbed off most of the old paint and used the brightener, can I stain those parts and work piecemeal depending on the weather here?
>If I do sand the deck floor for some reason, do I need to completely take off the residual stain or can I just rough up the surface for better adhesion if the product can be painted on oil?
Can’t answer questions properly without seeing pics.
Hi Scott Paul, Wow, now a year has passed since this inquiry. Somehow, I overlooked, forgot and or rather did not use the #1 Purple Stripper” first. I have scrubbed the deck clean, then applied the #2 Brightener. I have no idea why I forgot the #1 Stripper in my haste. I think I was just going by the color and size of the packages and blue and purple are close in the shade. Sigh.. Anyway, I assume, I need to use step #1 Stripper because there is an old layer of oil based paint on the deck. Do I or should I do #2 Brightener again after? I am thinking the answer is yes to remove the stripper. I’m very irritated at myself that I did not pay more attention. Anyway, Moving forward-backward and forward. Thanks in advance
Post some pics for prep advice. FYI, deck stain strippers will not remove paint.
Will do. Thanks I understand the stripper does not remove paint. It is a prep step.
Will RAD strip SW Woodscapes waterbased polyurethane semi transparent stain from siding
No deck stain stripper will remove a polyurethane effectively.
Will RAD remove Cabot Solid Color Oil Deck Stain? If so how many applications?
No deck stain stripper will fully remove a solid stain effectively in every scenario. If you used both RAD Stripper additives with the Stripper, you can remove a decent amount making your sanding much easier.
i have stained my porch railing in white, using Olympic solid stain a couple of times. My deck floor i used Olympic semi solid Sandstone a couple of years ago. My wife wants to use a Special custom mix Defy Solid stain that is white on the railings and change the deck to Defy Driftwood Gray. do i need to strip the railings or can i just stain over the existing. i suppose i will will need to strip the deck, What do you suggest
We would strip the rails to remove what you can and then you can cover the solid stain that does not come off. The deck floor has to be fully stripped.
Will the Restore-A-Deck remove Valspar water based acrylic semi-transparent deck stain? I just coated it yesterday on 1 year old pressure treated lumber. This is the first coat of stain on our deck. Thanks, Roy
Post some pics of the stain on the deck in the comments.
I have a small IPE deck that was dismantled and will be reassembled after other construction is complete. There was IPE oil applied previously, but it has not been applied for over 1 year and the wood is now grey and has some algae on it. Do I need to RAD stripper or just the cleaner if I want to change to the Armstrong Clark stain instead of IPE oil?
Strip and brighen for prep.
Thank you! Can RAD stripper be sprayed onto boards laid out on the lawn if wet first- or will it kill the grass? What brand and color of stain would you recommend? This IPE deck/landing steps down from a red brick wall. Northwest Indiana (near Chicago) at the southern tip of Lake Michigan. Harsh conditions – full sun with hot summers and cold snowy/icy winters. Noted some alge on the underside of the boards when we took them up.
It may harm the grass.
I am using Olympic Premium Stain Stripper and trying to remove two coats of old semi-transparent stains. The top coat was applied five years ago (Bher water based) and bottom coat was applied 15 years ago (Cabot oil based). The Olympic stripper did a very good job in removing the top coat, however, it didn’t do anything for the bottom coat. I reapplied the stripper generously the second time but it didn’t dissolved or flaked off the bottom coat. It seems the Cabot stain penetrated and bonded very well to the wood fibre. Is this mean sanding is the only solution. Would the RAD work on this particular situation? I attached a picture shows stripped top coat (red) and remaining bottom coat (brown). Thank you for your help.
You have solid stains, not semi-transparent. You will have to power sand to remove this.
Will RAD stain stripper remove PermaChink Vista Deck stain? Also, I only want to remove the stain from the floor boards, not the railing. Do I need to cover the railing with plastic or tarp? Thanks!
Please send pictures.
I have read that before using the RAD stripper product you can thoroughly wet down surfaces such as doors, windows, siding, etc. instead of covering with plastic and/or tarps. What are your thoughts on this? Also, I have a cement patio below the deck. Should the cement and sides be covered with plastic or would thoroughly wetting the entire area down be sufficient?
Photos attached
We prewet and rinse all the time when stripping decks. It works but you have to be careful to rinse over spray right away and continually while working.
Cement will not be an issue.
Thank you for the quick reply.
Will the Restore A Deck product remove Sikkens Proluxe Cetol SRD Translucent Matte Wood Finish.
Yes, use the stripper additves as well.
Will the stripper and additives remove this stain? Believe it’s a semi solid
No pictures.
Sorry didn’t attach
Solid stain. You will have to sand it off.
Our local dealer only carries TWP Safe-Strip, are the directions the same and is one better than the other? I am prepping heavily oxidized and previously stained cedar siding. I also used the #2 Restore a deck brighter that came in a kit as I was not able to find it by itself. Is Safe Strip compatible with the brightener and should I use it after using the safe strip?
Gemin Safe Strip is not the same and not as effective as the Restore A Deck Stripper. It may not work for you.
Hello I just posted, I prefer NOT to have my last name posted, sorry and thanks! Julie E.
You will not be able to strip this off. You will have to remove it by power sanding.
Am I understanding you correctly that I will not be able to strip any of it, including the floor?
It is on the wood like a paint or solid stain. You may be able to strip some but you will have to sand to get it fully off.
Hello, I am looking for some advice. This is a 30 year old deck. Last stained 2 or 3 years ago with what is pictured below. The top rail has had many different things on it over the years. Please advise, thanks!
I am wondering if RAD with the booster will make a difference for me.
We have been trying to strip what it seems to be solid stain from our deck. First (left) picture shows the results after using a floor sander 36 grit. Didn’t make much progress. Then we tried the Beth stripper followed by the cleaner, which started to help very little (right, still wet), but we still have a long way to go to get rid of it. Would you recommend the RAD + booster on this situation or should we just move to another type of sander?
Thank you!
The RAD Stripper with both the Booster and the Gel while pressure washing would help to remove some but you will still need to sand to get it all off.
I will be stripping my deck rails using restore-a-deck with the two additives and brightening using the restore-a-deck brightener. The decking itself is Timbertech composite decking. Are there any concerns with the stripper or brightener falling on the composite decking? Will it discolor it? The decking does have some dark spots in it Do I need to cover it in plastic or something? Or would the stripper and/or brightener help clean the composite decking and it’s OK or even preferred to spray it along with the railings? Thanks!
They should not harm anythng but they will not remove dark spots.
Hi, The previous owner seemed to have stained over stain probably over 5 years ago on the cedar deck. It’s been peeled off and cracked especially on the rails because of the very dry climate here (less than 10% humidity is common). I don’t like opaque stain, but how do I fill those cracks? And, do I need booster gel for the stripper for the pervious stain (semi-solid?)? Thank you so much.
You have a solid stain on your wood. That cannot be stripped off fully. You will need to sand it off the wood.
Thanks. How do I fill the cracks on the railings? Should I replace the boards?
Wood filler will not work on a deck. Replacing is better.
Ok thank you.
My front porch deck has sikkens Srd. The front porch deck is covered. The deck by the house looks great but the side that gets sun has faded and the deck in front of the stairs is mostly worn off. We have a log house, so the logs wrap down to the deck. The deck is cedar.
I am looking for a stripper that will safely and easily remove the srd. I then intend to apply TWP 100.
What you have on the deck is overcoated to the point that is on there like a shellac or urethane and that means you cannot stip it off. You will have to power sand this to remove it.
Hello. I am going to re-stain a house that previously had ATO red grandis and the owner wants to go water based semi- transparent over it. Can I apply the water based over the timber oil?
No, you will have to strip it all off first.
Can I apply stripper with sprayer, let sit/ untouched, power wash off and then …?
You will need the RAD Stripper with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Then pressure wash off. Repeat if needed. Brighten all when done.
I’m not sure what is on my deck. I think a Ben More semi-transparent. Stained probably 4 years ago. We are wanting to go to a more natural wood color (it is a greyish brown now). I’ve been told I can not go lighter. Were told just to thompson water seal after power washing it, it but I see that may not be a good option. Hoping to avoid sanding. Can we apply this stripper, powerwash it after, and then use brightener? Pretty basic restain job minus maybe switching products and color. We do have vertical cabinets, with countertops that we will do in a darker contrasting color, thus wanting lighter on the bottom.
So using the stripper allows you to not powerwash as harshly or as long?
Post pictures of the current condition.
Deck Location State: West Virginia
Sun: Full sun
Wood: Pressure treated pine
Mold/mildew: no
Reason for stain failure: winter freeze/thaw, water dripping from eaves. : Most of the deck is still covered, but there are several places where stain worn off and wood exposed. Several spots get dripping water from eve overhang that goes down to the decking.
Previous stain: 3 yrs ago, new deck, no stain the first season.
2yrs ago, Flood CWF Cedar, 2 coats after deck wash.
Last year, Flood CWF Ultra UV5, 2 coats after deck wash.
Preparing for this year, 2020. Can I stain over last year’s coat with the same product to keep from removing the otherwise thick coat on 90% of the deck? If not, what product do you suggest I use to remove current stain, and what to re-stain with?
You can clean and recoat with the same but it will eventually lead to more peeling/wearing down the road as you are over-applying. Eventually, you will need to fully remove it down to the bare wood and start over with a true penetrating stain. To remove, you will need to strip and sand to get it all off. Brightener after.
HELP! I used Restore-A-Decks 2-step Stripper & Brighter system to remove the old water-based Benjamin-Moore Arborcoat semi-transparent stain from my hardwood mahogany deck. After applying, power-washing off the old stain, brightening then thorough rinsing & drying, I applied 1 thin coat of Armstrong-Clark’s OIL-based Hardwood Amber semi-transparent stain, as recommended. It looked nice going on, but after drying looked horrible! Very mottled looking with extremely flat finish—no sheen whatsoever. I was careful to apply the stain evenly, full-length of deck 2 boards at a time. But, it looks like staggered marks from the pressure washer used to rinse-off the stripper now managed to show through the semi-transparent stain on the boards..
Can I save the looks of the deck by now applying a different SEMI-SOLID oil-based stain over the SEMI-TRANSPARENT one that’s now on it? If so, do I have to do any re-prep, or can I just apply the new coat of semi-solid stain to cover-up the current uneven appearance? I’m not that interested in showing the grain of the mahogany in it’s current condition. What can I do at this point? Thanks,
The AC is not supposed to have a shine and in fact, none of the high-quality stains will have ashine as that will lead to severe peeling and blistering on a deck. You cannot apply the semi-solid over the semi-transparent.
Post some pictures.
Here are a few shots of my mahogany deck with AC amber semi-transparent stain
You have what we call “stop lines” in your wood from the pressure washing. Basically your pressure washed too close to the wood and with the wrong technique. You can never reverse direction when at full pressure as that leaves the lines and deep “dents” in the wood. You always have to wash with a pendulum motion doing a full swing up or back before reversing directions. How you did it left uneven porosity of the wood and that is what the stain looks blotchy.
The only way to fix this would be to remove the stain and then power sand all the wood evenly to remove the damage that was caused. 60-80 grit paper: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Appreciate the info. I’m leaving as it is for this season. Next spring, I wish to ad another coat of the AC semi-transparent amber stain. Do I just use your cleaner, rinse and then stain? Or, will I need to re-brighten as well before stain application? Thanks.
Just cleaner and then stain.
Is this the right product to use for first time on PT decking to clean and brighten?
This is a stripper. You want a cleaner and brightener: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
Will this clean and brighten unstained or unseal PT? If not what’s the right products to use for first time
I just had some of the boards on my cedar deck replaced with cedar boards and there are also many boards that have transparent stain on them, as the picture shows. If I use stripper followed by brightner will it harm the brand new cedar boards?
The stripper should not harm the new boards.
Where can I purchase Restore A Deck?
On their website.
Thanks
will this remove rescue it max from deck?
No, the only way to remove that product is to sand.
I have Behr super Rawhide (clear) on my cedar siding and it’s cracking and peeling. Will restore-a-deck stripper remove this stuff? I’ve read that only media blasting will take it off.
No, you will need to media blast.
Thanks for this site. Best source of info on deck restoration I can find anywhere. I’m getting educated!
I think previous owner applied Sherwin DeckScapes solid (found a can under the house), although the can is brown and the deck stain has red tints, what’s left of the stain! Reading here I think I’m doing RAD 3-part prep, but I’m confused on two things:
1) I see you mention Stripper won’t remove a solid stain like DeckScapes. Should I just skip stripping then? This is related to my second question…
2) IF there is/was solid stain on my deck, my only option is another solid then correct? I can’t put a semi stain on, correct?
That does not look like a solid stain. Strip it off with the RAD stripper and both of the additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
It should come off the floors pretty good but not 100% certain about the rails. If it does not come off the rails, then consider a two-toned deck: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/advantages-to-having-a-two-toned-deck/
ok thank you! I’ll come back with photos once I have it stripped and cleaned.
I am using the RAD (without booster or gel) on my pine deck floor that was media blasted and stained with Permachink Ultra 7 about six years ago. It’s a semi-trans water based stain and it is coming up, but I think the pressure washer may be doing the bulk of the work. I’m just wondering as I have more to do, if I should add the “booster” to the RAD to kick it up in strength. As it is, I mixed it double strength according to the directions. I don’t have the booster (also don’t need the gel as surface is not vertical), but could order it, but should I consider something stronger like Woodrich HD80? I will be light power sanding afterwards to get rid of fuzzies and imperfections.
So the question is, how does the booster (minus the gel) added to RAD stack up against straight HD80?
Thanks for any input.
HD80 is not stronger but weaker than the RAD Stripper. Using RAD Stripper both additives will help with the stripping. Apply and let sit for up to an hour. Make sure to mist to keep it wet.
I am hoping that you can advise me how you would tackle this deck railing project. One of your replies states, “…no deck stain stripper will remove a solid stain effectively.”I don’t know enough to be able to know what is on the railing right now. Are you able to tell by the pictures, by chance?
If appropriate, I planned to use Restore-A-Deck Deck Stain Stripper with Booster and Gel Additives followed by the Brightener. We haven’t chosen the coating yet, and would appreciate suggestions for the most durable available for the conditions. The deck is in the Pacific Northwest with a west view and the house is very near the Puget Sound coastline. Also, is there a coating that would make all the wood consistent in color, or are we doomed to have a mismatch on the few treated posts and rim joist that were recently replaced? Do you have any thought about how long this project might take per 6 LF of railing? I appreciate any guidance you can provide! Thank you so much!
You have a two-toned deck. White solid stain for rails and semi-transparent for floors. Best to stick with this approach. See here for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/advantages-to-having-a-two-toned-deck/
You will not be able to strip the railing fully but it will help to prep for a new coat of a solid stain and will prep the floor as well. The only way to make consistent would be to stain all rails and floors with a solid stain. Timing is relative to experience so no way to answer.
Thank you for your insight! I should clarify that we’re not doing anything to the deck right now. We’re just doing the railing.
I have a 2 year old pressure treated deck that was sealed with a natural-color oil based sealer. I’d like to cover it with Restore a Deck stain. Other than washing the deck, do I need to remove the oil based sealer? At a minimum, what should I use?
Yes, you will need to remove the current stain when switching brands, Use the RAD Stain Stripper and pressure washing to remove. Brighten the wood after.
I have a multi level deck that is 28 years old. We have pressure washed the deck and were planning to apply the Restore A Deck cleaner and brightener. but with amount of old Sikkens stain remaining on the deck, I am afraid that will not be enough. Do I have to cover my lower deck when I clean my upper deck?
You will need to strip this and you will need both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
If you are not doing the lower deck then cover it. If you are do the top first and then proceed to the bottom deck.
Thank you! This is a really great site!!!
You are welcome!
I just applied a coat of Restore-A-Deck semi transparent Natural, to a few sections of a relatively new cedar fence. I don’t like the results. Can I remove it now and start over?
Yes.
Where can you purchase this product?
Check with their website.
Does this product work on Redwood decks stained with solid stain from Behr
Sorry, but no deck stain stripper will remove a solid stain effectively.
Thanks. Any thoughts on how to make the deck look good if it cannot be completely stripped. What can be put over the stain if anything and will it last
You can strip off some and then cover the rest with a new solid color stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thanks again. I will try it What a pain!
Great site!
I want to apply a new coat of semi-transparent stain to my fence that has a pre-existing semi-transparent stain. As I understand it, I have to strip it first (using RSD), condition it, then stain it. My question is, do I need to apply any further treatment, such as a sealer or varnish, over the final coat of semi-tranparent stain?
Thanks,
Phil
No, and you cannot add a sealer or coating over a deck or wood stain.
How will the stripper effect black powder coated rod iron rails??
It shouldn’t harm anything but always test spot first.
I got some of the dissolved stripper on a window when I was spraying it on the deck. It left spots that have failed to come off with window cleaner, detergent and a razor blade, and acetone.
Any ideas?
We have never had this happen to us. Is the window tinted?
Window is not tinted. Given the droplet pattern I am sure it happened when I was applying the stripper as a spray. It must have dried on the glass and maybe etched it before I flooded the deck and adjacent wall to remove the stain and stripper.
The stripper would not etch the glass as it is not an acid. Should just be soap residue. Have you tried a green scrubby with soapy water?
Like this.
The restore a deck stripper mentions the it could darken cedar. I have sanded my floor, but cannot get to some and am considering using the stripper on the balance. Could there be a difference then in what the product will look like when stained. Going to use a TWP stain
As long as you brighten all when done, you will be okay.
Applied Pittsburgh Ultra Advanced Solid Acrylic Latex stain several years ago. We sanded most of deck, but areas of stain remain between the deck boards. Is there a stripper that would work for the edges rather than sanding?
No, not on a solid stain.
I think the previous owner put in behr semi transparent stain but who knows what other previous owners used. I used behr stripper but failed miserably ( see the picture). Is this thr type of stain that I can only remove with power sanding ?
That is a solid opaque stain, not semi-transparent. You will have to power sand to remove this.
Thank you. Do you recommend a certain type of power sander I should use for a deck? I am willing to rent it from Home Depot
See for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Thank you. So I am thinking of the cheapest option which would be not to sand and then just stain with solid deck stain… if I were to live here forever I woul hire someone to sand it but I think I might have to spend at least $1000 to get my deck sanded!
So I got your recommended cleaner and brightener kit. So I will use that and then do a solid stain color. What do you think abou this and what products would you recommend ?
Yes, you can do a solid stain over it. Any of these will work: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
My husband sanded with a drum sander for 5 hrs but still has paints on them. I can start to see the grains but that thing is so resistant to even sanding. I did a spot testing with citristrip and the paint does come off. I have used it before and I know melts away the paint. I am just afraid the Restore deck wont work to remove the remaining solid stain. What’s your experience with citristrip
Not much, we do not use the Citristrip as that is more of a paint stripper than a deck stain stripper.
Hello!
My deck looks very similar to the above. Previous owner must’ve used some kind of solid opaque stain (paint?) which won’t come off using just a power washer. I plan to use Gulf Synthentic products to do a full restore but need to get this stuff off first.
Should I start with a product like the above to clean as much as I can? What about Wolman Deckstrip ASR?
I will likely need to sand, then use Perma Fill to level, then Perma Bond, then revive.
This is massive 22×26 deck, with many board likely needing replaced.
When covering with Gulf, you do not need to remove all the current stain. Just remove the dirt and any loose paint/stain by pressure washing. You can then go to Perma Fill to level, then Perma Bond, then revive.
Thanks for the reply!
This stuff MIGHT be the Behr DeckOver so it is VERY thick.
Still think we don’t need to remove it?
Post a picture.
Thanks again for the help. Here are some more details:
22×26 ft deck
Need to replace 8-10 boards
Planning to use Gulf Synthentics (about $1000 for this size)
Can’t get this stuff off (tried Wolman ASR and 2100 PSI power washer).
I am considering using a 3200 PSI washer to rip through this stuff and get down to the wood. It may chewed up a bit, but will this hurt the application of Gulf Deck Revive?
My thought process is that this still will cover it up, so it shouldn’t matter.
Looks like a solid stain. You do not have to remove all to cover with the Gulf. Just pressure wash to remove the loose paint.
We usedthis to remove a semitranparent stain. It did a mediocre job. Mildew was not removed despite scrubbing with abrush.
This will easily remove surface mildew. If something “black” did not come out of the wood, then it was not mildew but possibly rust or tannin stains. The brightener would help with this.
I have a pressure treated wood deck stained with Olympic Elite semi solid stain. The deck is 10 years old, the current stain is 2 years old. I’d like to re-stain a different color. Will the RAD stripper remove the Olympic stain?
It should. Use the two RAD additives as well: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Hello, Contractor stained 6 month old kiln dried premium pine lumber using Benjamin Moore Arbor Coat Semi-Trans on deck around pool. Applied on hot day and flashing occurred. Contractor came back 4 months later and applied second coat without stripping (just lightly sanded over flashed areas). Lasted about a year. Year 2 and most of the stain has worn away. I need to strip, should I use the recommended Benjamin Moore stripper or go with something like the restore-a-deck product? Once striped & brightened, my painter wants to use CWF but I’m leaning more towards TWP and doing it myself. I live in Southern New York. What’s best for my situation? Thanks so much!!
Arbor Coat is an extremely difficult strip, especially when double coated like this. You can strip off what you can but you will most likely need to sand. Use RAD but look at these as well: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Thanks so much for the quick reply! From your experience, have you noticed if RAD runoff kills vegetation? I have grass and shrubs all around the deck and fear a chemical like this may have an adverse effect.
Not kill but could burn the leaves if you do not cover.
Will this product remove Behr No. 400 transparent waterproofing wood finish?
Need a picture.
Looking for advise on choosing a deck stripper:
Need to remove stain applied 2 years ago: Olympic Maximum, semi-transparent, stain and sealant in one. It was advertised to prevent water damage and graying for 6 years…ha!
As you can see from the attached picture, it is pealing and wearing off, and the deck is weathered gray.
Will RAD stain stripper remove the rest of this stain?
Thanks,
Harvey
In the picture, it looks closet semi-solid to solid stain in some areas. This makes it very hard to strip. You can try the RAD stripper with the additives but you may need to sand as well to get it all off.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
I hate to sound stupid, but can someone tell me where to find the 37 reviews for this product?
This website is AWESOME!!! Thank so VERY much for all the helpful info.
The 37 reviews are cumulative Star ratings, not comment ratings.
Oh, OK. I wasn’t looking for the numbers so much as the comments, which often include helpful tips about using the product. But no biggie, and certainly no harm in seeing the numbers!
We used Behr solid color stain several years ago and it is peeling badly. Is there any stripper that will take this off? How long will pressure treated wood last if not treated and just washed and brightened every year?
No. Deck Stain Strippers are not very effective with solid color stains.
Once again, this site is unbelievable, thank you so much.
Two years ago I put Sikkens Cetol 1 RE on these raw adirondack chairs and benches. Looks awful. I am looking to restore it. I only put the Cetol 1, I did not apply a second-part of the retool system. Sikkens describes Cetol 1 as a transparent, penetrating stain (full description below). The chairs and benches sit around a fire pit in near full sun, Charlotte, NC, next to/under some trees. Two questions I was hoping you could help me with:
1) Restore: RAD stripper, RAD/Gemini Brightener?
2) Refinish: TWP 100 okay? Any other/better recommendations?
Again, thanks so much
Description: Cetol 1 RE is a transparent satin basecoat for exterior logs, siding and other vertical wood surfaces. Use with Cetol 23 Plus RE™ top coats. Available in seven rich wood hues.
Key Features:
Penetrating alkyd-oil formula, part of a 3-coat system
High-transparency transoxide pigments amplify depth of color, clarity and substrate protection
Powerful UV absorbers protect color and wood substrate
Water-repellent
Provides a mildew-resistant finish
Excellent block resistance for additional color options on windows and door frames
More Pics. Note: the bench is a raw slab of sweet gum wood; the chairs are super-cheap white wood (bought a cheap chair kit online).
The Sikkens Cetol 1 RE
1. Yes on RAD Stripper but try the Additives as well: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
2. TWP 100 Series will work.
Hello, I recently had some deck boards replaced using SYP PT “with wax”, but supposedly kiln dried. The installer lightly pressure washed them and then two days later applied TWP 100 stain. The “old” deck boards were pressure washed and stained the same way. See picture for results. It is obvious from reading your “deckstainhelp” that this was not the best way to blend new boards with old boards. I’m thinking of using Restore-A-Deck Stripper on the new wood, letting it weather for 2-3 months or more, then lightly pressure wash, apply wood brightener, and then apply TWP 100. Is this a process which will achieve a more uniform finish on the new wood, better matching the old wood? If there is a better process, please describe. Thanks, Lee
New wood cannot be stained right away. TWP suggests 4-12 months on natural weathering. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Best to strip it now. Let it weather for 4-12 months. Clean and brighten for prep then.
Would this product work as well for removing Behr DeckOver product on my deck? If not, what would be recommended?
Nothing will strip Behr Deckover. You are looking at power sanding or replacing the wood.
This will be our first deck season after moving into a new house this past fall. I’ve been doing some research and putting together a plan, but I’m not entirely clear on what I’m dealing with here.
The deck has more of a reddish tone, the benches appear to be untreated, and the vertical posts seem to be stained. It’s difficult to tell the color tone of the deck in the closeup picture, but the other two pictures show it well.
My main concern is the deck itself. I’m hoping a round of stripper and brightener will take care of this, but I’m just not sure.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.
You have a solid stain on the floors. That cannot be stripped. Sorry. Power sanding will be needed to remove it.
I just purchased a should and want to refinish the deck. It looks like a sealer was used that is peeling in places. I can still see the wood grain through it. Will this remove the sealer? ( am I using the correct name sealer)
Post a picture, please.
See attached
Yes, it will remove this. There are some areas that are thicker. Those may need to be stripped twice to fully remove.
where can I purchase restore a deck and wood brightner
Check with their website.
Good afternoon, We have a beautiful Gazebo (Redwood) that has Pinofin oil on it. Just wondering if you have a product that will help take the Pinofin oil off and then reapply a finish. I started sanding and I think it will take me forever to do this. Any help would be great.
Thank you
Matt
Penofin is easily removed with the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper and light pressure washing. Make sure to use the Brightener after to neutralize.
Sorry this post disappeared when I tried to post pics so I redid whole post. Now it’s here. Oops.
Ok, I recently bought a house with an existing deck. Looks like what is on the original decking is Olympic Elite Advanced Woodland Oil Stain & Sealant. It’s dark so I’m assuming they tinted it. I found this old half used can under the deck. Here are my questions:
1. Since newer portion of deck is 2 months old, should I wait a longer period of time or can I start the either staining the new wood same color (if I take stain to hardware to try and match) OR using stripper on older wood?
2. If I use stripper and go that way, can I use a regular cheap hand sprayer or should I use something else for application? (I recently painted the house)
3. Do I have to do or put anything on new wood before I stain if I’m able to match color of stain that’s on older deck? (Older deck not really old-under 5 years I think).
4. The older deck does have few areas where I can see wood underneath and one spot of white on it. (See pic)
5. I live in Hawaii so we have acid rain. Most of my deck is covered now. Anything about that I need to know?
6. I live off grid with a rain catchment tank for water. Can I use a regular garden hose to spray off or do I have to get s pressure washer?
7. Last question, I also put a line of rough cedar fencing up in front of my house for privacy (can’t do rest of privacy fence yet). Can I stain that now or should I wait? The frame and posts are treated lumber.
I’m not expecting perfection and that’s fine. I just want it to match and look decent. I realistically will probably put some outside rugs on in places.
I’ve attached pics. Mahalo for all your help!
1. Yes, see this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
2. You need a garden sprayer for applying the stripper and pressure washer to remove.
3. You have to prep the new wood. See link above.
4.
5. No.
6. Pressure washer.
7. If rough cedar, you can stain now without the need for weathering.
Mahalo. Ok I lightly sanded that white spot. It’s just the stain coming off. I can see gray wood now.
I live on a lake and have a 75’ pier attached to a 25’ floating ramp & 16’x16’ floating dock. I have used the Olympic Semi-transparent Stain color: Honey Gold, the stain is several years old and in need of either cleaning or stripping…but I’m not sure which. Any suggestions and what steps I should take and what RAD products would be needed? Thank you!
You will need to strip and or sand when switching brands. Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit should work. Feel free to post a picture.
Will rad deck stain stripper harm vinyl siding or glass windows. Thanks.
It shouldn’t but make sure to pre-wet and rinse well when done so there is not a bunch of dirt or soap residue left on the siding/glass.
I thought the deck cleaner worked great;however, I needed more and I ordered stain stripper instead of deck cleaner . If I use the brightener when I am done will it work okay and not hurt the deck. The deck had never been stained.
It may “fur” up the deck too much if you use the stripper since it does not have an old stain to remove. You can try, but water down the stripper to about 2-3 oz per gallon of water.
My wife and I purchased a home that has a 1000 sq ft deck that was stained roughly six months ago using Olympic Elite Advance Stain + Sealant in One Semi Transparent Wood Stain. The color is entirely too dark for our liking. Also, it appears that on half of the deck, a second coat was applied. We are wanting a cedar shade but do not want to go through the hassle of stripping if it will not make the wood look “new” again before we apply a new stain. Should I strip? Should I sand? Do I need to do both?
Strip off what you can and then sand the rest off if needed. Brighten the wood when done. It will not be an easy removable but it has to come off if you ant to fix this.
Will this remove Thompsons WaterSeal Advanced Natural Wood Protector? I put it on a week ago and my deck has a yellowish hue when dry and gray when wet. I need to remove it ASAP
Post a picture please.
Ugh. I wish we would have read your review on the Behr semi-transparent water based stain before putting it on our new cedar deck. We just put it on 2 days ago and hate it. I understand stripping is going to be awful, but at this point we feel it may be our best option to go with another type of stain. I understand it is best not to strip brand new stain, but We have not put up railing yet, so we are hoping to strip and re-stain before doing that, so we can avoid working around it. I just want to be clear, stripping is ok, and multiple tries is also ok, right? Whatever does not come off will then need to be sanded? And then use a brightener? Any other tips? And is any one stripper better for water based or is this type our best option. Any other advice? Thank you.
Stripping newly applied stain is not easy. It is even harder when it is the Behr. Most likely you will not get it all off by stripping so power sanding will be needed as well. After this is removed, use both a cleaner and a wood brightener for final prep. You mentioned the wood was new? You cannot stain new wood right away. See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I just coated a one year old deck with Behr Premium clear transparent waterproofing product. I cleaned and brightened it before coating. The color tone after it dried is a little on the yellow/honey color. I thought it would be completely clear to let the natural wood color remain. Would the deck restore be the best product to strip it? The coating has been on only 48 hrs.
What would be the best CLEAR deck coating non oil based that you would recommend? Would Defy be it? I used it (color version)on my deck and it appears to be more of a penetrating product rather than an encapsulating product like Behr. It is also more flat than shinny.
Thanks
It is very hard to strip a deck stain that is just applied and even harder when it is the Behr. You will be able to strip some (maybe 1/2) but you will need to power sand this to remove fully.
Clear (no color at all) = zero UV protection from graying. Are you okay with it truing gray in a matter of months? If not, you must use a tinted stain.
The Defy Extreme Clear is the best true clear on the market but it will start to gray in 9-12 months.
Thanks for the quick response. Will it be easier to strip one to two years from now?
Yes but Behr is still a pain to strip. Most likely some will peel off though making it easier to remove. It is a bad overall product. 🙁
My deck has layers of helmsman urethane on it. We have already used a stripper and brightener, but still has layers left. Will this product eat through the rest that is on deck. If so do I use brightener afterwards.
No. A deck stain stripper will not remove a urethane. You will have to sand this off.
We have an old two-part redwood deck. Last fall we replaced the upper portion (due to excessive dry rot and poor construction) with boards that had been in the lumber yard for years. The lower part is very grooved and was very dry and gray. After installing the new redwood decking I stained it all with a SW stain because I assumed since it was already dry it would be okay. This year the new part turned very gray and mildewed. I realize I should have waited to stain.
Today I used the stripper and brightener on the entire surface for upper and lower and I was pleased to see much of the lovely red color come back, but there is a large area that is now black. I’m sure we applied evenly and pressure washed evenly as well, so I don’t know how to correct the problem. I redid the stripping in the blackened areas and saw no improvement.
We’re in Iowa and the deck gets midday sun. I plan to stain with TWP. We just had a week of rain but should be dry this week. How do I address the blackened area?
That is strange. Try applying the brighter again to all wood. Let is sit on the wood until dry.
Should I rewet before brightening? Here’s how it looks after drying overnight. We mixed both the stripper and brightener on the weaker side and limited the time left on, but equally across the deck. I did finish with brightener and then rinsed it yesterday.
Lightly wet first. Might be tannin bleed but strange in only one area.
It’s much better today but I can still tell where the dark areas were. I did sprinkle a bit of water on the dark spot this morning to see if it looks different when wetted. After it’s completely dry just stain over or do I rinse the brightener off?
Rinse the brightener off.
Thank you for walking me through this process. Here’s how it looks after rinsing the brightener off. Better but not as good as I’d like. How do I fix it? Or can I?
Thank you for walking me through the process. I’ve rinsed the whole deck down. It’s better but I can still see a darker area. What do I do now?
Try it again. Brightener all but make the concentration stronger. Rinse all after 15 minutes. Something reacted internally in the wood and we want to “brighten” it out.
How long to wait after using the stripper to apply the brightner
Right away.
Forgot photos
Hello-
I would appreciate any advice you can provide on this project.
Deck is in Seattle area, pretty shaded area, some direct sun but only for a couple of hours.
Unknown wood species and unknown product but I would guess Thompson. If you can tell that would be great. Is it a solid?
Any chance it would strip? Would you advise stripping and then sanding what is left?
Someone I trust advised a Messmers UV+ semi after I get it off.
Thanking you in advance.
It is a solid and cannot be stripped fully. You can strip some and then sand the rest off.
Thank you. I was afraid that this would be your response but I am not surprised. For 400 square feet do you think I can get this ready for coating with a full week of stripping and sanding? I ask because here in the Great Northwet the rains could be coming soon and I am wondering if I should just wait until next summer.
Any thoughts on the Messmers?
Thanks again
Sure you can get this done if you have a week. Messmers is an okay brand. Better than many.
What is the best thing to remove Olympic Rescue It?
Power sanding. Strippers will not remove it.
Will this product remove a solid color porch paint (latex)? Thanks!
Not fully. No deck stain stripper will.
Does RAD remove Helmsman spar poly?
No. No deck stain stripper will remove a polyurethane. You will need to sand that off.
Will RAD loosen it up enough to power wash it off?
No. A deck stain stripper will have no benefits in removing a polyurethane. Pressure washing will not remove it either. You will have to power sand.
Its hard because the Poly was applied too T-111. So sanding is going to be difficult at best.
Media/corn cob blasting is the best way then.
How do I determine if oil based or water based is the best stain? I have two decks both 16 years old PT lumber and have been pressure washed to remove dirt. First deck does not show any signs of previous stains or sealant but is very susceptible to mold a A few boards have been replaced so they are very new while the rest of the deck is graying.
The second deck has a reddish stain on the railings but this stain is mostly worn off on the horizontal deck surface.
Can I use the same stain on both decks?
You will need to remove the reddish stain first and then you can use the same stain for all. Use one of these stain brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Will this remove Sikkens Cetol 123 from my cedar siding? This stuff is unlike the SRD varieties of stain.
No. It will not remove the “shiny” verions of Sikkens. No stripper will. Media blasting will be needed.
I have a large deck,over 500 sq ft . it has behr transparent stain on it that was stained on seasoned treated pine wood but was not pretreated or conditioned. The deck floor is peeling bad and the pickets have a mildew showing under the stain that doesn’t was off. The stain is about 4 yrs old. What advice do you have.
When looking at your website I didn’t see any specific instructions. Only what I saw in reviews.
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Strip off what you can and then sand the rest off. The Behr can be stubborn to remove. Once fully removed, use a wood brightener to neutralize.
My deck railing is wood frame with black metal spindles. Is RAD corrosive to the metal?
Depends on the metal type and it it is smooth coated, painted, powdered coated, etc. There are too many variables to give an accurate response.
One thing we have noticed is the smooth-coated black spindles never have an issue with prep products.
I have a deck that was not pretreated before being stained with Behr premium stain. The stain is about three yrs. old It seems to have mildew under the stain and is peeling. The pickets have the mildew as well.
Post a picture please.
I’ll have to do so on a later date.
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You will need to sand this current coating off 100% first. A stripper will not remove this.