Restore A Deck Wood Stain Review
Update for 2019: This is our 2nd Year for the Review of the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain. This review will be updated through the years with new pictures as the stain ages. In 2018, our first full year if using the Restore A Deck stain, we had no issues with performance and saved a tremendous amount of time with the ability to prep and stain in the same day. We will continue to offer the Restore A Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain as one of our go-to decking stains for the 2019 restoration season.
*We prefer the application to damp wood as it performs better and applies easier.
Note: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood. Applying to damp wood allows you the ability to prep and stain on the same day, saving you a tremendous amount of time.
Summary: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is an advanced, water-based, semi-transparent stain formulation designed to penetrate deep into wood pores for maximum protection and longevity. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain protects the wood from harmful UV rays and damage caused by water penetration. Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is safe to use, has a low odor, and is easy to clean up with soap and water. It is ideal for all wood types including pressure treated pine, cedar, fir, or redwood.
Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, the ability to apply to damp wood, all in 4 beautiful semi-transparent colors that highlight the natural wood grain.
RAD Wood and Deck Stain will increase the life, appearance, and durability of all exterior wood surfaces. With the easy to apply and maintain Eco-Safe formula, you’ll be able to finish faster and enjoy your exterior wood or deck for years.
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
– The Restore-A-Deck wood stain color we used was the Semi-Transparent Light Walnut. The initial appearance was a rich brown with a hint of red (see pictures below) after drying. The Restore-A-Deck Stain penetrated extremely well into the wood grain on our test deck. No surface film on top of the wood.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9
– Restore-A-Deck had little to no fading at the 2-year mark. Excellent color retention should be achieved through years 2-3 as well based on initial pictures and testing. See below for picture.
Restore A Deck Stain Two Years
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
–At the 2-year mark, there was no wearing or peeling.
Cost Per Square Foot: 8
– We applied two coats to our 150 Sq foot deck that included all railings and steps. Less than 1 gallon was used for this at a total cost of $40. This equates to $.30 a square foot. Very reasonable pricing and better than most other top brands.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 10
– Similar to other water-based deck stains, the Restore-A-Deck Wood stain will not promote the growth of mold or mildew. This is one of the main advantages of using a water-based coating. At the 1-year mark, the deck showed no signs of any mold or mildew.
Ease of Application: 9
– Our favorite aspect of the Restore-A-Deck Wood stain is the ability to stain and prep on the same day! We tested this by cleaning and brightening the wood with the Step 1 and Step 2 Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener Kit and then applying the RAD stain 1 hour after the prep. The wood was visibly wet on a few areas of the deck and damp to the touch throughout. The Restore-A-Deck actually applied easier to the damp wood than any other water-based stain that we have used previously. We also found that the coverage was better when applied to damp wood. In theory, the stain will actually absorb better when applied to damp wood. The water “swells” the wood pores and “pulls” the stain deep into the wood as it dries. Applying to damp wood will also help avoid potential issues with Applying a Deck Stain in Full Sun.
See before and after pictures below.
Restore A Deck Stain After Prep
Restore A Deck Stain Damp Wood Application
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8
– As expected there was very little darkening for the Restore-A-Deck Stain or color shifting. See picture at 2-year mark above.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
– The Restore-A-Deck will be an easy clean and reapplication as needed.
Overall Score Restore-A-Deck Stain at 1 Year Period: 8.63
– The Restore-A-Deck is an awesome exterior wood stain and has shown the ability to outperform other water-based and oil-based wood stains. Restore-A-Deck’s 3-Step system allows you to save time and money when it comes to restoring your exterior wood and decking. No other system that we have used or tested has allowed the ability to Prep and Stain in the Same Day. If you are looking for the future of exterior wood and deck stain, then you should consider the Restore A Deck Wood Stain and their prepping system.
Product Information:
More Info: Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain
Cost: $39.99 per Gallon, $89.99 per 2.5 Gallon Pail, $179.98 per 5 Gallon Pail. Products ship free on their website.
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Water Based
Available Colors: Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, Dark Walnut
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet” for older wood. New wood = 1 Coat.
Coverage Per Gallon: 100-150 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 2-4 Hours
Cleanup: Water
VOC Compliant: 50 VOC Compliant in all States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Restore-A-Deck
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 150 Square feet
UV Exposure: 50% Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Light Walnut
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
We are so pleased with the Restore a Deck stain. New wood 9 months after it was installed. Process couldn’t be any easier!
All I can say is WOW! I was in a world of hurt with an oil-based sealer/stain product. Admittedly, I had applied too much when I was doing my maintenance clean & reapply after a year of the original coat. I tried stripping the oil-based coat with paint stripper, denatured alcohol, and mechanically, but I would have been at it for weeks!
Then I discovered the Restore-A-Deck webpage and read about the Restore-A-Deck water-based products: Stripper, Brightener, and Stain. I used the Stripper along with the Booster. I first tried just the Stripper, but realized that as the salesperson noted, I did indeed also need the Booster. After a second application with Booster, the deck came out beautifully! I then applied Natural Stain (after waiting a day – ran out of daylight!). The deck looks fantastic! I hadn’t expected the gentle satin or eggshell finish, but it was a nice surprise! Cleanup, being all water-based, was a breeze, and I didn’t end up with lots of environmentally unfriendly run-off.
Hats off to the Restore-A-Deck company! Great products, easy to use, with fantastic results! What more can I say?
Just cleaned and brightened my 2 year old pressure treated pine deck. Then applied the light walnut stain, all from Restore A Deck. It looks great.
Post a picture or two if you have time.
Will do.
Ken, can you try the pictures again when you have time. The issue with uploading images has been fixed.
Here are some photos.
Looks really good!
What shade color is this
Light Walnut
What color stain is shown in photos?
Light Walnut
Some more photos.
can this be applied over behr quick dry oil finish applied last year
No. Whenever you switch brands of semi-transparent stain you will need to remove the previous coating. The good news is that this Behr Quick Dry Oil is easy to strip off: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
I am looking for a stain on a redwood deck. It was rough cut and originally stained with a solid stain that has cracked and peeled. We live in the redwood forest on the coast of Northern California, so there was a lot of mold, black patches and algae on the wood because some areas simply do not get much sun along with the previous stain failing. I am still working on removing the stain as it is so difficult! I am teetering between the restore-a-deck semi-transparent stain and the twp semi-transparent stain. I noticed that even TWP has linseed oil. Doesn’t that promote mildew? It RAD a good product for this deck or would you prefer an oil-based?
The RAD would work great but you will have to remove the solid stain 100% first.
I’m debating between this and the TWP 100, is the TWP 100 not good for new wood? You seem to prefer the TWP 100 more often on your comments and posts compared to this. Is the TWP 100 only good for old wood?
Have you read our new wood article? https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
All new wood needs to season and then be prepped. Does not matter if you are using the RAD or the TWP.
Can I apply this over a 2 year old oil base stain which did not hold up very well and is very worn.
The current stain will need to be stripped and or sanded off. Brightener after.
I’m doing steps and landings in western Kentucky, plan on doing in 2 maybe 3 sections. It’s 18 months old, plan on pressure washing all at 1 time then using brightener on a section, then staining that section , then repeating . Am I wrong in my plan of doing sections?
You need a deck cleaner while pressure washing. Clean all at once and then brighten all when done. You can then stain in sections working your way down to the water.
Does a sealer need to be applied after the stain?
You cannot apply a sealer over any deck stain.
I’ve pressure washed and applied Thompson Water seal to my 15 year old 2″x6″ treated wood deck after letting it dry for 5 days. Do I need to remove the sealant before using your product and if so what do I use to remove?
Yes, you will have to strip it off and then brighten the wood. A deck stain cannot be applied over a sealer.
We have a new sign at our apartment complex made of cedar that we will need to stain immediately so that we can install the remaining portion of the sign. I know this isn’t ideal and we should be weathering for 3-4 months, but if we have to go this route, is there any reason why Olympic would adhere better on new wood than Restore a Deck or TWP? We are leaning towards using Restore a Deck Cedartone.
Any other brand we should consider in this situation? Also, should we still brighten?
Thanks!
Don’t use Olympic. Not good anymore. If you do not let the wood weather and you prep and stain now, it will most likely need another coat at some point next year. Does not matter the brand. Yes, you have to prep.
Sounds good. Will the only downside of staining before weathering be that I have to stain again later this year, or will it also affect the long-term appearance (absorb into the wood unevenly, etc.)?
It will only be an issue for the first year or two.
We used the RAD Stain in Natural on our fence last year and it still looks incredible! Love these products!
Our pine deck boards are new wood. As I understand it, if I somehow treat the wood to remove the glaze on the boards, I can then apply Restore-A-Deck stain the same day. Is that correct?
If so, what should be the process for removing the glaze? Thank you.
You cannot stain new wood right away: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
After the weathering of 3+ months, you have to use their cleaner and brightener kits for the prep.
We have a redwood deck that gets sun all day. What color would you go with, natural, cedar or light walnut. This is a B grade redwood that is 4 years old. We also have residue from a big redwood tree growing next to deck. The deck has very uneven coloring with white spots. Would the natural conceal the uneven discoloring? We live in Berkeley Ca. Thanks.
Probably not. If you prep it first to get it even then it should but that may require sanding.
Help! We stripped and brightened the deck yesterday with Restore-a-Deck. We were going to apply the stain today. See pics below. The deck is splotchy , dark in areas, the wood is feathering and basically a mess. We don’t know if we need to rent a sander. Or will the stain (Cedar) cover up vast difference of very dark and light spots? Your guidance of what best to do is appreciated ASAP. Thank you.
Looks like you did not brighten correctly. Try doing that again letting it dwell on the wood for 20-30 minutes before rinsing off. See if it that gets it more even in color.
1) Would it help to just use the buffer when dry? We would have to wait and order more brightener and then may have to still buff since we have LOTS of furring My husband did it with pump sprayer and we left it on for correct time. We did it per instructions. 2) How many days would we need to wait for deck to dry. We are in Calif. with weather in the 70’s to 80’s now. Thank you! Very concerned as to how bad it looks.
1) Instead of brightening again which would take a long time to reorder and receive product, could we buff and then apply stain??
2) How long would we need to let deck completely dry in 70-80- degress (calif.), full sun before buffing?
3) My husband followed the directions and sprayed brightener on with sprayer.
4) Will the cedar Retore-a-deck sealer cover the dark spots and make in look uniform?
Very concerned about wood. Thank you!!
The darkness you are seeing is internal not on the surface so the only thing that could help to even it out is a wood brightener. A stain cannot blend this perfectly.
1) Is there another brand of deck brightener we could use that can be purchased locally? One that is as good as Restore-a-deck that will work with/following the previous brightener?
2) Additionaly, wouldn’t the buffer help with removing all the fur that is now left on our deck? Does buffing remove the fur??
Thanks,
~
1. No idea what you have locally or if any good.
2. Buffing will help remove the furring but will not fix the darkening issue.
Hello.
We have stripped and brightened the deck twice per your recommendations. There are still some darker spots and furring on our very large deck. We are now hand sanding areas and thinking of using a hand belt sander to speed up the process.
1) It is not clear if on an older deck, we should apply two coats of restore-a-deck stain
or just on coat?
2) Do you apply stain to wet, misted or dry wood??? This is not made clear in instructions.
3) Is it okay to sand the areas with a hand sander prior to staining?
4)What grade sand paper should we be using?
5) Post sanding should we sweep and then wash off left over sanding dust to best prepare for staining?
Any further assistance is appreciated. We are working on the deck today.
Thank you.
1. 2 Coats wet on wet if the wood is very absorbent.
2. Damp or dry.
3. Careful of not sanding to fine as they stain will then be lighter in color there.
4. 60-80.
5. Lightly pressure rine.
I replaced some damaged deck boards earlier this summer with new PT. Most old/existing PT boards were usable but splintered, so I sanded them. I decided to sand the new boards as well in an attempt to get the most uniform appearance after staining. I have not yet cleaned or brightened any of the boards since I’m waiting for the new boards to “season”.
It’s been 2-1/2 months (hot summer, decent amount of rain), and when I do the “water drop” test on the new boards, some of them absorb the water quickly while others do not – the water beads up as shown in the first photo. The second photo shows a larger amount of water that pools. Using a brush to spread the water seems to help, but the water still doesn’t absorb like it does on the other new boards. After a while the water eventually seems to get absorbed, but I’m concerned that these boards might not accept the stain properly.
I can wait another 4 weeks or so before the weather here in Maryland will get to the point where staining won’t be an option and I’ll have to wait until the spring. Questions:
(1) Based on the photos and my description, does it seem likely that another 4 weeks will “season” the new boards enough so that they’re ready to stain? Better yet – am I OK to stain now?
(2) Even though I bought all of the new PT boards at the same time from the same place, I’m assuming the issue is that some of them just need more “seasoning” than others because they’re “wetter”. I say this because I sanded all of them, and thus I think I can rule out mill glaze as the culprit. Would you agree? Any other possible causes for poor water absorption after 2-1/2 months?
(3) I plan to use RAD cleaner & brightener before staining. Will these steps do anything to make the new boards in question ready for staining? In other words: should I be OK to stain after cleaning & brightening?
(4) If I go ahead and stain even though the new boards in question still fail the “water drop” test, what’s the worst that can happen?
(5) Other than waiting, is there anything I can do to the new boards in question to get them ready to accept stain?
Thanks in advance!
Greg M.
1. Wait until Spring.
2. Yes, too wet to stain. Wait until Spring.
3. No.
4. It will peel.
5. No.
That’s what I figured too. I’m in no hurry and obviously want to get the best results.
Since sanding the old PT boards 2-1/2 months ago, there’s already some light graying/oxidation, and I’m sure that by spring it will be more pronounced – and there may even be some graying of the new PT boards.
When I prep in the spring (RAD cleaner with power-wash, then RAD brightener), what’s the best advice you can give to avoid the “fuzzies”? The deck is large, so I really want to avoid having to even lightly sand the whole thing again to remove “fuzzies” before staining.
Thanks again.
No way to avoid the fuzzies if they happen. This happens not from the cleaner but from the amount of oxidation that you will have. How much varies deck to deck and on the UV.
How obvious are the “fuzzies”? I’d hate to not notice them and then have the stain not look good. Do you happen to have any photos?
If they happen, what are my options to get rid of them before staining: can I use a stiff broom or brush to mechanically break them loose, and then a blower to get rid of them?
If I have to sand, what grit and what method (hand, palm sander, belt sander, etc)?
I really don’t want to have to sand again. Any other methods for removing the “fuzzies”?
Thanks.
Fuzzies will always vary so no way to say for certain if they will happen or if they will show or not. If you sand, use 60-80 grit. See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
So if I do get “fuzzies”, and I need to sand to remove them, at what stage do I sand: after cleaning but before brightening, or after cleaning & brightening?
Can you reduce the chance of “fuzzies” occurring by scrubbing the cleaner with a brush and just hosing it off instead of power-washing?
Thanks again.
After cleaning before brightening. No, it is not possible to reduce the fuzzies. It has nothng to do with pressure washing or the cleaner. It is about the amount of oxidation or stripping if a previous stain.
How long does it take to deliver stain to Beech Mountain, NC?
You would have to ask them directly.
I went with Retore-A-Deck and the deck prep products. The most labor went into prepping the deck before applying the stain. Actual application was easy. We used the natural stain and were so surprised at how beautiful the deck was when finished. The only hiccup was that we received some rain 6hrs after application(no rain was forecasted). However it didn’t seem to faze the stain at all. Now, we will see how the deck holds up after a year and I post a new review.
Thanks for reviewing. Do you have any finished pictures?
I will take some pics and post. The deck is actually a large modular disability ramp. The size however is as big a a nice size deck.
We put up a cedar fence last year and let it weather for the past 12 months. I’m planning on cleaning/brightening it as it has grayed a bit. Is the RAD brightener oxalic acid? My understanding that oxalic brightener takes off the top layer of fence material. Wouldn’t that be defeating the purpose of weathering for a year to open up the grain? Or is that false? Also, since it’s been 12 months, should I do 1 or two coats?
2 coats and you will need to prep all new wood.
I have a deck that is about 2 years old, I’m going to pressure wash it first but I wasn’t sure if I needed brightener with this product?
Best to clean and brighten the wood while pressure washing.
What would you recommend to clean and brighten?
Can you use a power sprayer to apply this product? Or is it best to brush on?
The stain can best be applied with a stain pad or brush.
How long do you need dry weather after using RAD water based semi transparent stain on deck surface? Would a stain pad or car wash brush work best to apply stain on new deck. All prep work is done!
Thanks, Dan
We like stain pads and car wash brushes for applying. Either will work. No rain for 6 hours or so.
How can I fix lapping with this water based stain? Can’t use mineral spirts to lighten dark areas like oil based. .. thoughts?
Thank you!
Sorry but the only way to fix overlapping (does not matter if oil or water-based) is to remove and start over.
We have 3 – 2.5 gallon containers of the semi -transparent RAD left over after staining the deck. It is new wood so we only applied one coat and from what I understand, a second coat should be applied in 12 months. What is the shelf life?
Also, we used the RAD semi-transparent in the color Natural. Does that color, since it is so light, provide UVB protection for the deck? Thanks.
It will last years as long as it does not freeze. Yes, it has UV protection in the Natural tint.
Would it be ok to go ahead now with a 2nd coat of semi transparent in Natural to use up the extra we ordered of the RAD? We applied 1st coat yesterday to our new 9 month old pine deck, but it seems we ordered twice as much as we needed….or for some reason it did not take as much as we were told to order? We would like to go in in a year with a coat of the semi in Light Walnut to add more color. Is it ok to apply a coat of RAD Light Walnut semi transparent over RAD Natural semi transparent?
Also, we applied to a damp deck with a brush and today it has streaks in it. See pictures. What would cause this? They were not visible as we applied it..only later. Is there anything we can do to fix it?
See pictures. Thanks for your help.
No on applying more now. It will not soak in once it is cured and overapplying is not a good thing. You should be able to apply the Light Walnut next year over this since the LW is darker.
Those marks are not from the stain but improper pressure washing technique with your wand. They are called stop lines. The only way to fix would be to sand the deck evenly down to the bare wood.
Will the stop lines always be there even when we stain again in a year. (unless we sand it down?)
Any advice on proper pressure washing techniques? Thank you!
Stop lines do not go away with time. Use your wand like a pendulum and do full sweeps. Never stop and reverse direction in the middle. That is what causes the stop lines.
Can we get rid of the stop lines if we use this proper pressure washing technique before we stain again? Thank you.
No, has to be sanded to remove the lines. Entire deck evenly.
With enough practice you can minimize or possibly remove the stop/start marks, by power washing more closely toward the marks to “blend” them in more, you will be making the area around the marks lighter and taper the lighter spots away a number of inches each direction to blend them in. I could mostly make those marks difficult to see by blending this way, possibly to the point where you can’t notice them at all, but I have been power washing wood for a long long time, don’t know how long the learning curve is. You could possibly sand fade/blend them out next year and still minimize the appearance of them to almost nothing without really sanding the whole deck down, but this will probably be more visible then blending with power washing. Get an old board like an old fence board and practice. To practice, make a stop/start mark, then try to come in moving the wand and gradually get a little closer over the mark, while always keeping the wand moving, and gradually get farther away as you taper away from mark, which is blending the mark away. You may need to do this move a few times, getting a little closer each time until you are satisfied with the blend/taper area. Practice a few times and you will at least get an idea what this process is doing. Wherever you sand may look lighter though so sand early in spring, or power wash blend best you can, and if you do have quite a bit lighter areas where you washed,/blended/sanded out marks, give a little time before staining so they can darken up a little. sorry, that’s all I can suggest.
Sometimes, yes, a mark like this happens, but I have found that the blending with washer works very well and I can almost always blend out this mark to where there is no sign of it.
I have a deck ‘addition’ for hot tub plus 4 yr. old deck that was originally, professionally stained with B.M. Arbor coat which I see on your site has a low rating (which I can attest to) – I have re-stained with this yearly just because I have lots of leftover product. It doesn’t make it through one Colorado Rocky Mtn. winter. Can I use Restore-a-deck on the old and the new (cedar). I plan on sanding the old stain as the surface is rough and needs smoothing.
See this about the new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
You will have to remove all of the Arborocat off the old deck first.
Re-doing our deck. Thinking about using RAD product. We applied a Sherwin/ Williams clear “sealer” about 2-3 years ago. Do I need to get that out before applying RAD?? The S/W seems to have run its course . Didn’t really like the S/W product anyway, and, have been told by a pro painter that S/W deck products are junk. He recommended RAD-DEFY or Ready-Seal, and said I don’t have to remove the sealer? Your thoughts??
Yes, you will need to remove it if it is still there. The SW products are junk.
Thank you
Would an HVLP sprayer be OK to use for application?
Yes, it should work.
We are in the process of re-doing our deck. The spindles, stringers, headers and face plates are all 28 years old but in good condition. The treads are about 5 yrs. old. The deck boards and hand rails are being replaced this year. We are considering the solid RAD. Would this be a proper choice and what would you recommend for prep? The non-replaced items have been stained with Ultra Advanced Exterior Stain (Semi-Transparent) which says it’s acrylic oil. We’ll have to wait a year on the new deck boards and handrails.
You can use the RAD Solid for this. Prep with a cleaner and pressure washing.
We just completely sanded a 5′ x 30′ semi-exposed ten-year-old cedar deck here in Vermont. We’d like to (1) preserve the color of the deck, (2) not let it gray before staining, (3) protect the deck from extreme weather (snow piles up on it in the winter), and (4) limit future maintenance needs (no peeling, etc.). Can we use RAD brightener and cedar stain now, rather than waiting for the sanded deck to weather? Thanks.
Yes, you can prep and stain. Just one coat.
What is the best method to remove previous stain and mold from deck?
See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
Have a 3-yr premium pine deck (240sq ft) with 6-7 hrs direct sun. I used TWP 100 Series here in humid / hot Raleigh, NC after first couple months of weathering and it’s held up well but is due for a renew. From my reading, it seems that I should use the RAD Stripper and RAD Brightner BUT will the RAD Stain last as long or longer than just re-applying TWP 100 Series? Better yet, why should I not skip the RAD products altogether and just re-apply 2 coats of the TWP 100 Series after a good power washing? Seems that would be just as good. Deck is clean and wood is still solid. Trying to save $$ and time but don’t want to re-do any sooner than 3 yrs, either. Thanks!
About the same as the TWP. Either way you will need to prep correctly and pressure washing alone is not good enough.
Got it. As I suspected. Thanks for reviewing and replying. Ciao!
stripped previous stain & used brightener but have not been able to apply stain because of rainy weather & been out of town.it has been three weeks.do I have to apply a cieaner & a brightener again before I stain the deck?
Yes, lightly prep again.
I’ve been using oil basedor years (Storm Stain or Ben Moore) in a very dark brown, almost black. Cleanup is a bit of a pain, but the big problem is very long dry time unless I wait until there’s a really hot day. But I prefer to get things ready in late May, when it’s not that hot in New England.
Can I use a water based product over the existing oil stain? I don’t mind applying a coat every year or two as long as there is no peeling which means scraping or stripping – it’s a big deck! (Fir, by the way.)
No, you have to remove when switching brands. Once removed, you can use the RAD stain.
Most of the doug fir boards in our 28-yr-old deck are in decent condition, the worst getting replaced beginning 10years ago. Understand what I need for stain and will use RAD two step for cleaning; my concern is about power washing vs sanding OLDER wood. They say power wash will take out too much wood AND create splinters. Sanding is a long and not easily process. I don’t want a dark stain, but do want stain & sealant to be well absorbed. Older, fir, Oregon weather: any opinion specifically about sanding and/or power washing?
Pressure washing with the proper prep products will allow you to sue less pressure and that means less chance of any damage or splinters. it is one of the main reason to always use proper prep products while pressure washing. The RAD stain will work well after the prep.
I have a deck that has solid stain (Cabot) on it. However, it was absolute junk and lasted only a few months before starting to peel. (Even after carefully scrubbing, washing and drying the deck beforehand.) One year later, it’s +50% devoid of stain. I want to start over by renting an random orbital floor sander to remove what’s left of the old stain and then applying Restore-A-Deck wood stain. But you say it’s best to apply it to a damp deck. My understanding is that it’s not a good idea to wet a freshly sanded deck since it would raise the grain. What would be your recommendation? Thanks!
Wetting a sanded deck has no harm and it is good to raise the grain as it makes the wood more porous. Whoever gave you that advice does not understand deck stains and the need to soak in.
I’m extending my existing 8 year old deck that is in decent condition, adding about 140 sq. ft.
Would restore a deck stain work well to cover both old and new to blend properly, after cleaning, sanding both sides and brightening the old side?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
As for blending, it is impossible for a semi-transparent stain to blend new and old wood the first time standing. The new wood is going to be lighter since it is less absorbent.
Thanks for the reply. Would a solid or semi solid blend it, or is the weathering period needed regardless of stain type?
Is there a re new type stain that’s water based but less transparent for an older deck that’s never been stained??
The RAD is semi-transparent and shows all the natural grain of the wood.
I have a brand new 450′ sq ft redwood deck built a month ago. What color of RAD stain would you recommend to keep the natural redwood color? Natural? lol
Natural is the lightest and will enhance similar to a new wet look. You cannot stain new wood right away though. RAD sates at least 3 months and then prepping first. See this about new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Yeah I wasn’t planning on staining for another 3 months or so. What about sanding? I have some blemishes, splintered wood areas, wood manufacturer stampings, pen and pencil lines on the new wood.,etc. Should i sand those out now or wait until I do the cleaning and brightening. I’ve heard sanding is NOT the way to prep. thanks for your help!
Sand the stamps, etc now so it can weather after for another few months.
I have a 14 year old treated pine deck. 350 sq ft. It has been coated with Sherwin Williams solid deck stain. The deck boards are solid but have a lot of cracks (Cincinnati weather). I would like to power wash and sand the deck flooring and apply something that will help restore the wood for 2 to 5 years until I replace them. Is this the product for my purpose? Or what do you suggest.
This cannot be applied over a solid stain. Were you planning on sanding it all off?
I plan to use some removal product then sand the deck flooring before applying some type of stain.
Yes, it will work then.
Hi, will this stain work of my IPE Deck? I would like to switch as my Penofin does not hold up well.
Yes, it works very well for IPE. Make sure to strip off the Penofin first. Brightener after.
Just had Cabot semi-transparent stain applied to an old deck. Had not been power washed in 5 years. Contractor washed and then applied a light colored (foghorn) stain, one coat. Apparently insufficient tint was mixed and the result is an almost white finish. According to Lowes nothing can be done short of stripping and starting over. All I would like to do is add another coat in a solid color without going through the labor of stripping, sanding, etc. Any alternative?
Look at one of these solid stain brands to cover it: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
what type of prep work was done before application of the product?
That varies based on the current condition. See this for help: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
Hi, we have a large deck that we believe was previously painted vs. stained solid. We have removed MOST of the paint using a stripper and sanding with a large sander. There is no peeling paint at this point, but there is some residual paint. Everything I’ve researched has suggested using a solid stain (AKA acrylic flat paint), however, we tested a small portion of our deck and it seems that dirt is going to show very easily and we are concerned that the solid stain will not wear well. Realizing that unlike many semi-transparent stains, this stain is water based, which is ideal for our east facing deck that is exposed to full sun much of the day, my question is whether every bit of paint must be removed to use this water-based semi-transparent stain? And if yes, would you still recommend a water-based, or would it be better to use an oil based if we were to hand sand every remaining bit of remaining paint off?
You have to remove all. Best to continue to sand until all off.
Thank you, would you recommend the effort of sanding the rest and using a semi-transparent stain, and if so, would you recommend water or oil based, or given the work, would you recommend a semi-solid or solid stain? And if so, are there any solid/semi-solid you would recommend any with a matte or satin vs flat finish that would be more resistant to dirt? Thanks again in advance.
Sand the rest off. Clean and brighten for final prep. Use one of these penetrating stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
You cannot have a “shine” for a deck stain. It will peel.
We live in the high desert of Central Oregon so get extreme UV conditions and plenty of snow — and we have 2 challenges right now that we’d appreciate advice on:
1. Existing deck (about 14 yr old cedar) has been completely sanded (using 50-grit) of its previous Penofin (would not recommend) coating and ready for new stain. If we choose Restore-a-Deck, which is what we’re leaning toward, do we still need to clean and/or brighten, or can we just go for it, applying it on dampened wood, as suggested?
2. A NEW step down deck, also in cedar, is being installed this summer; it will NOT be exposed much at all to weather/UV as it is going to have a solid roof over it entirely. From what I’ve read, it sounds like one should wait for some time to stain new wood, but HOW LONG would that likely be when it’s positioned under such a roof – Is there any easy for amateurs to assess that? Thanks!
1. Clean and brighten for prep after sanding.
2. Wait for 3-4 months and then clean and brighten for prep. Just one coat of stain.
Can I buy restore a deck in Canada specifically London or Windsor Ontario? Or Chatham
You would have to have it shipped from the states to Canada.
Where can I purchase this product in CT?
Check with their website.
I just purchased cedar for a pergola build, not pressure treated. I’m new to the world of outdoor wood and have a few questions based on what I’ve read thus far:
1. Is the aging process just a matter of moisture content since the cedar isn’t pressure treated?
2. I understand the need to wait to stain, but I also don’t want to end up with grey wood. Is it possible to use RAD this year before an Ohio winter, say in October?
3. If so, is it just a matter of using the prep materials then staining?
4. Is there a concern that stain won’t protect areas beneath hardware, butt joints, etc. from water damage?
5. UV protection is important to me, but I also would like the cedar’s natural colors to shine (or maybe become a bit more red, if anything). Is RAD light walnut a good fit for me? Or should I be looking at a different brand?
6. Is it helpful to fill knots with epoxy before staining?
Lastly, what does your experience say about using marine grade finishes on outdoor wood projects (e.g. Totalboat sealer + marine varnish)? I was leaning towards a system like that but worried the reapplication/maintenance would involve too much work.
1. No. See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
2. Yes.
3. Yes.
4. No.
5. Sure that color will work.
6. No, never use a wood filler on decks. It will not work and will not blend with the deck stain.
Varnishes will blister and peel on decks. Do not use.
We would like to restore and stain our dock on a lake in South Carolina. I was concerned about the animals in the water, turtles, fish, ducks etc. Are the RAD cleaner and stain safe for the lake? The cleaner would get in the water the most when rinsing.
Yes, they are eco-safe.
We want to restore and stain our dock over a lake in South Carolina. I am concerned about the animals in the water like turtles, fish, ducks etc. Are the RAD cleaners and stains safe for wildlife in the lake? The cleaner would get in the water the most when rinsing.
I applied Behr stain & it lasted one year on ocean front deck. Do I have to remove old stain to apply this or just sand peeling and bare spots.
All of it must be removed.
Can I have a color sample sent to me for the natural and cedar transparent stain?
Check with them directly.
Can you give me the info to contact them directly? I cannot find any info for contacting them to request color samples
The samples and phone number are right on their website. http://www.restore-a-deck.com
Your review states that you can prep and stain the same day, but the package for the brightener says to wait 48 hours and stain within 2 weeks. I’m confused
You wait 48 hours when using a different brand of stain. The RAD stain can be applied the same day.
Will this finish be safe on a pool deck that is wet and can be slippery with wet feet
Yes. It is a penetrating stain.
I am considering this product for a pool deck. The old findish was slippery when wet. How will this product perform with bare feet
You must remove the old coating. The RAD is a penetrating stain so no issues.
Since my Tigerwood deck has never been stained, can i just use the RAD cleaner and Brightener without the stain and do it every year? I am afraid if i use the RAD LIGHT WALNUT semi water stain on the Tigerwood it might not look much like Tigerwood. You recommended 1 coat but what would happen if i did not stain it at all?
It will gray in a matter of months if you do not stain the wood.
Do you think the light walnut RAD would be the most appropriate semi stain?
Yes.