Restore A Deck Wood Stain Review
Update for 2019: This is our 2nd Year for the Review of the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain. This review will be updated through the years with new pictures as the stain ages. In 2018, our first full year if using the Restore A Deck stain, we had no issues with performance and saved a tremendous amount of time with the ability to prep and stain in the same day. We will continue to offer the Restore A Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain as one of our go-to decking stains for the 2019 restoration season.
*We prefer the application to damp wood as it performs better and applies easier.
Note: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood. Applying to damp wood allows you the ability to prep and stain on the same day, saving you a tremendous amount of time.
Summary: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is an advanced, water-based, semi-transparent stain formulation designed to penetrate deep into wood pores for maximum protection and longevity. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain protects the wood from harmful UV rays and damage caused by water penetration. Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is safe to use, has a low odor, and is easy to clean up with soap and water. It is ideal for all wood types including pressure treated pine, cedar, fir, or redwood.
Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, the ability to apply to damp wood, all in 4 beautiful semi-transparent colors that highlight the natural wood grain.
RAD Wood and Deck Stain will increase the life, appearance, and durability of all exterior wood surfaces. With the easy to apply and maintain Eco-Safe formula, you’ll be able to finish faster and enjoy your exterior wood or deck for years.
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
– The Restore-A-Deck wood stain color we used was the Semi-Transparent Light Walnut. The initial appearance was a rich brown with a hint of red (see pictures below) after drying. The Restore-A-Deck Stain penetrated extremely well into the wood grain on our test deck. No surface film on top of the wood.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9
– Restore-A-Deck had little to no fading at the 2-year mark. Excellent color retention should be achieved through years 2-3 as well based on initial pictures and testing. See below for picture.
Restore A Deck Stain Two Years
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
–At the 2-year mark, there was no wearing or peeling.
Cost Per Square Foot: 8
– We applied two coats to our 150 Sq foot deck that included all railings and steps. Less than 1 gallon was used for this at a total cost of $40. This equates to $.30 a square foot. Very reasonable pricing and better than most other top brands.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 10
– Similar to other water-based deck stains, the Restore-A-Deck Wood stain will not promote the growth of mold or mildew. This is one of the main advantages of using a water-based coating. At the 1-year mark, the deck showed no signs of any mold or mildew.
Ease of Application: 9
– Our favorite aspect of the Restore-A-Deck Wood stain is the ability to stain and prep on the same day! We tested this by cleaning and brightening the wood with the Step 1 and Step 2 Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener Kit and then applying the RAD stain 1 hour after the prep. The wood was visibly wet on a few areas of the deck and damp to the touch throughout. The Restore-A-Deck actually applied easier to the damp wood than any other water-based stain that we have used previously. We also found that the coverage was better when applied to damp wood. In theory, the stain will actually absorb better when applied to damp wood. The water “swells” the wood pores and “pulls” the stain deep into the wood as it dries. Applying to damp wood will also help avoid potential issues with Applying a Deck Stain in Full Sun.
See before and after pictures below.
Restore A Deck Stain After Prep
Restore A Deck Stain Damp Wood Application
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8
– As expected there was very little darkening for the Restore-A-Deck Stain or color shifting. See picture at 2-year mark above.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
– The Restore-A-Deck will be an easy clean and reapplication as needed.
Overall Score Restore-A-Deck Stain at 1 Year Period: 8.63
– The Restore-A-Deck is an awesome exterior wood stain and has shown the ability to outperform other water-based and oil-based wood stains. Restore-A-Deck’s 3-Step system allows you to save time and money when it comes to restoring your exterior wood and decking. No other system that we have used or tested has allowed the ability to Prep and Stain in the Same Day. If you are looking for the future of exterior wood and deck stain, then you should consider the Restore A Deck Wood Stain and their prepping system.
Product Information:
More Info: Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain
Cost: $39.99 per Gallon, $89.99 per 2.5 Gallon Pail, $179.98 per 5 Gallon Pail. Products ship free on their website.
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Water Based
Available Colors: Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, Dark Walnut
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet” for older wood. New wood = 1 Coat.
Coverage Per Gallon: 100-150 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 2-4 Hours
Cleanup: Water
VOC Compliant: 50 VOC Compliant in all States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Restore-A-Deck
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 150 Square feet
UV Exposure: 50% Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Light Walnut
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
We are so pleased with the Restore a Deck stain. New wood 9 months after it was installed. Process couldn’t be any easier!
All I can say is WOW! I was in a world of hurt with an oil-based sealer/stain product. Admittedly, I had applied too much when I was doing my maintenance clean & reapply after a year of the original coat. I tried stripping the oil-based coat with paint stripper, denatured alcohol, and mechanically, but I would have been at it for weeks!
Then I discovered the Restore-A-Deck webpage and read about the Restore-A-Deck water-based products: Stripper, Brightener, and Stain. I used the Stripper along with the Booster. I first tried just the Stripper, but realized that as the salesperson noted, I did indeed also need the Booster. After a second application with Booster, the deck came out beautifully! I then applied Natural Stain (after waiting a day – ran out of daylight!). The deck looks fantastic! I hadn’t expected the gentle satin or eggshell finish, but it was a nice surprise! Cleanup, being all water-based, was a breeze, and I didn’t end up with lots of environmentally unfriendly run-off.
Hats off to the Restore-A-Deck company! Great products, easy to use, with fantastic results! What more can I say?
Just cleaned and brightened my 2 year old pressure treated pine deck. Then applied the light walnut stain, all from Restore A Deck. It looks great.
Post a picture or two if you have time.
Will do.
Ken, can you try the pictures again when you have time. The issue with uploading images has been fixed.
Here are some photos.
Looks really good!
Some more photos.
I have a brand new 450′ sq ft redwood deck built a month ago. What color of RAD stain would you recommend to keep the natural redwood color? Natural? lol
Natural is the lightest and will enhance similar to a new wet look. You cannot stain new wood right away though. RAD sates at least 3 months and then prepping first. See this about new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Yeah I wasn’t planning on staining for another 3 months or so. What about sanding? I have some blemishes, splintered wood areas, wood manufacturer stampings, pen and pencil lines on the new wood.,etc. Should i sand those out now or wait until I do the cleaning and brightening. I’ve heard sanding is NOT the way to prep. thanks for your help!
Sand the stamps, etc now so it can weather after for another few months.
I have a 14 year old treated pine deck. 350 sq ft. It has been coated with Sherwin Williams solid deck stain. The deck boards are solid but have a lot of cracks (Cincinnati weather). I would like to power wash and sand the deck flooring and apply something that will help restore the wood for 2 to 5 years until I replace them. Is this the product for my purpose? Or what do you suggest.
This cannot be applied over a solid stain. Were you planning on sanding it all off?
I plan to use some removal product then sand the deck flooring before applying some type of stain.
Yes, it will work then.
Hi, will this stain work of my IPE Deck? I would like to switch as my Penofin does not hold up well.
Yes, it works very well for IPE. Make sure to strip off the Penofin first. Brightener after.
Just had Cabot semi-transparent stain applied to an old deck. Had not been power washed in 5 years. Contractor washed and then applied a light colored (foghorn) stain, one coat. Apparently insufficient tint was mixed and the result is an almost white finish. According to Lowes nothing can be done short of stripping and starting over. All I would like to do is add another coat in a solid color without going through the labor of stripping, sanding, etc. Any alternative?
Look at one of these solid stain brands to cover it: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
what type of prep work was done before application of the product?
That varies based on the current condition. See this for help: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
Hi, we have a large deck that we believe was previously painted vs. stained solid. We have removed MOST of the paint using a stripper and sanding with a large sander. There is no peeling paint at this point, but there is some residual paint. Everything I’ve researched has suggested using a solid stain (AKA acrylic flat paint), however, we tested a small portion of our deck and it seems that dirt is going to show very easily and we are concerned that the solid stain will not wear well. Realizing that unlike many semi-transparent stains, this stain is water based, which is ideal for our east facing deck that is exposed to full sun much of the day, my question is whether every bit of paint must be removed to use this water-based semi-transparent stain? And if yes, would you still recommend a water-based, or would it be better to use an oil based if we were to hand sand every remaining bit of remaining paint off?
You have to remove all. Best to continue to sand until all off.
Thank you, would you recommend the effort of sanding the rest and using a semi-transparent stain, and if so, would you recommend water or oil based, or given the work, would you recommend a semi-solid or solid stain? And if so, are there any solid/semi-solid you would recommend any with a matte or satin vs flat finish that would be more resistant to dirt? Thanks again in advance.
Sand the rest off. Clean and brighten for final prep. Use one of these penetrating stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
You cannot have a “shine” for a deck stain. It will peel.
We live in the high desert of Central Oregon so get extreme UV conditions and plenty of snow — and we have 2 challenges right now that we’d appreciate advice on:
1. Existing deck (about 14 yr old cedar) has been completely sanded (using 50-grit) of its previous Penofin (would not recommend) coating and ready for new stain. If we choose Restore-a-Deck, which is what we’re leaning toward, do we still need to clean and/or brighten, or can we just go for it, applying it on dampened wood, as suggested?
2. A NEW step down deck, also in cedar, is being installed this summer; it will NOT be exposed much at all to weather/UV as it is going to have a solid roof over it entirely. From what I’ve read, it sounds like one should wait for some time to stain new wood, but HOW LONG would that likely be when it’s positioned under such a roof – Is there any easy for amateurs to assess that? Thanks!
1. Clean and brighten for prep after sanding.
2. Wait for 3-4 months and then clean and brighten for prep. Just one coat of stain.
Can I buy restore a deck in Canada specifically London or Windsor Ontario? Or Chatham
You would have to have it shipped from the states to Canada.
Where can I purchase this product in CT?
Check with their website.
I just purchased cedar for a pergola build, not pressure treated. I’m new to the world of outdoor wood and have a few questions based on what I’ve read thus far:
1. Is the aging process just a matter of moisture content since the cedar isn’t pressure treated?
2. I understand the need to wait to stain, but I also don’t want to end up with grey wood. Is it possible to use RAD this year before an Ohio winter, say in October?
3. If so, is it just a matter of using the prep materials then staining?
4. Is there a concern that stain won’t protect areas beneath hardware, butt joints, etc. from water damage?
5. UV protection is important to me, but I also would like the cedar’s natural colors to shine (or maybe become a bit more red, if anything). Is RAD light walnut a good fit for me? Or should I be looking at a different brand?
6. Is it helpful to fill knots with epoxy before staining?
Lastly, what does your experience say about using marine grade finishes on outdoor wood projects (e.g. Totalboat sealer + marine varnish)? I was leaning towards a system like that but worried the reapplication/maintenance would involve too much work.
1. No. See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
2. Yes.
3. Yes.
4. No.
5. Sure that color will work.
6. No, never use a wood filler on decks. It will not work and will not blend with the deck stain.
Varnishes will blister and peel on decks. Do not use.
We would like to restore and stain our dock on a lake in South Carolina. I was concerned about the animals in the water, turtles, fish, ducks etc. Are the RAD cleaner and stain safe for the lake? The cleaner would get in the water the most when rinsing.
Yes, they are eco-safe.
We want to restore and stain our dock over a lake in South Carolina. I am concerned about the animals in the water like turtles, fish, ducks etc. Are the RAD cleaners and stains safe for wildlife in the lake? The cleaner would get in the water the most when rinsing.
I applied Behr stain & it lasted one year on ocean front deck. Do I have to remove old stain to apply this or just sand peeling and bare spots.
All of it must be removed.
Can I have a color sample sent to me for the natural and cedar transparent stain?
Check with them directly.
Can you give me the info to contact them directly? I cannot find any info for contacting them to request color samples
The samples and phone number are right on their website. http://www.restore-a-deck.com
Your review states that you can prep and stain the same day, but the package for the brightener says to wait 48 hours and stain within 2 weeks. I’m confused
You wait 48 hours when using a different brand of stain. The RAD stain can be applied the same day.
Will this finish be safe on a pool deck that is wet and can be slippery with wet feet
Yes. It is a penetrating stain.
I am considering this product for a pool deck. The old findish was slippery when wet. How will this product perform with bare feet
You must remove the old coating. The RAD is a penetrating stain so no issues.
Since my Tigerwood deck has never been stained, can i just use the RAD cleaner and Brightener without the stain and do it every year? I am afraid if i use the RAD LIGHT WALNUT semi water stain on the Tigerwood it might not look much like Tigerwood. You recommended 1 coat but what would happen if i did not stain it at all?
It will gray in a matter of months if you do not stain the wood.
Do you think the light walnut RAD would be the most appropriate semi stain?
Yes.
We have a boardwalk & large floating dock on a lake in Alaska. It’s made of cedar. The cedar is 2 years old and has not had any preservative/stain applied to it. Would RAD work well for this “over water” application? Also, What would you recommend for prep? The wood is a bit gray and does have a “fuzzy” surface to it.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Prep with a deck cleaner and then brighten the wood. The RAD stain should work fine.
I just noticed the RAD product is not available for purchase in Alaska. Is there another product line you would recommend that might be available at a local stain retailer (Lowe’s, Home Depot, Sherwin Williams etc)?
Nothing decent in big box stores and not sure of what brands are sold in Alaska.
We did our deck three years ago and used the Behr deck over product. It is now time to redo. The deck over product is peeling all over and we want to use something else. Would this product work well over the deck over product? (After power washing as much as we can to remove the product).
No deck stain can be applied over the Behr Deckover. You will have to fully remove it 100% by power sanding or replace the wood.
Is this stain good for a swimming pool deck?
Yes.
I am about to purchase and install 1 x 12 cedar boards and strips from Lowes and do board and batten siding. It states it is cedar, am not sure if it is “technically” western cedar or? Anyhow, the boards appear to have a slightly rough texture to them, not rough sawn perhaps, but not smooth either. Anyhow, I would like to have a nearly clear finish with maybe a little darkening color to it, however. A few questions. What product(s) do you recommend? And when can I apply it? I’m thinking it would be easier to apply before installing OR should I install and let it set for a period of time??? Would it need a cleaner – brightener? I guess, long story short I need full directions for this scenario, lol… Located in Southern Tennessee
You cannot pre-stain wood like this. Install and weather the wood.
OK, about how long in this current Tennessee weather you think?
Few months.
What sealer, cleaner, etc. do you recommend best to use in this scenario
Hi, try the RAD prep products and the TWP Stain or RAD semi-trans stains.
To apply the RAD semi-transparent stain on a verticle wall (Board & Batten cedar), what options are there to apply it? Brush only or can one spray it on someway or?
Spray and then back wipe with a brush right away to ensure an even application.
our front deck gets to 120 degrees in morning sun, is RAD semi-transparent going to prevent UV damage in this situation
Yes, but do not apply during those temps. That will lead to failure for any deck stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/applying-a-deck-stain-in-full-sun/
Where can it be purchased?
Check with their website.
So fed up with having to sand and restain my deck floor every Spring with Benjamin Moore semitransparent stain. Have done all the correct steps. Never had this problem with oiled based stains years ago.
Try a better brand like the RAD wood stain.
I have a 10′ x 15′ deck made of treated pine. It is 25 years old. It was sealed once with Thompson’s Water Seal 20 years ago. I recently cleaned it with a high pressure (2,000 psi) washer. Water only. It came remarkably clean. All the graying is gone and the wood has its original color. I would like to use either a clear or very light brown RAD stain. At this point do I need to do anything else to prep before staining or can I simply wet the deck and apply stain?
Post a picture.
[IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/68vcx2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i68.tinypic.com/118p1sw.jpg[/IMG]
No more prep is needed.
Images attached correctly this time.
No more prep is needed.
We’re in “Nawthun” Mississippi & built our 11×13 treated pine deck in August of 2018, so it’s had about 8 (rainy!) months to air out. We’ve purchased a gallon of the cedar-tint RAD stain & want to apply it soon, before things get too hot around here. The deck planks still look practically new, but we’re planning to first clean them with plain water & a stiff brush. Under these circumstances, is it really necessary to also use the brightener?
You have to clean and brighten. Brightener by itself does not prep wood.
Thanks for the quick response, but maybe my question wasn’t clear:
1. We built the deck only 8 months ago.
2. Cleaned it yesterday & it now looks virtually new.
3. We’ve purchased ONLY the stain.
Is the project REALLY knackered if we don’t spend another $60 on cleaner & brightener?
Thanks again for your attention!
If it is clean you should be okay to stain without more prep.
Can i get a close match to Behrs “Forest Green”
No. It cannot be custom tinted.
If I am planning to sand down the deck (cedar), do I need to strip/brighten before using the stain?
Yes, that will help the stain to soak in deeper. Clean and brighten.
We are adding a new deck onto our home in Georgia. The summers are extremely hot and humid. Will this product work well in the high/humid conditions.? How long do we need to wait before we can stain? We are using PT decking boards. What prep would be necessary since we are using new boards?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Have new Cypress Siding and Pressure-Treated Pine Deck – both kiln dried. Do I need to wait a couple months to apply Restore-A-Deck like some other products? And is the prep-kit still needed on new wood? I also note it comes in Natural and Cedar – I assume Natural would not preform with UV as well as Cedar due to less pigment? Thanks!
Yes. 1-2 months and use the kit to remove the mill glaze and oxidation. Just one coat for new wood. See this for more tips on your wood type: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-kdat-deck/
Hi. Can this product be applied to treated wood? If not, what is best for treated wood?
We replaced deck floor with composite. This is for the deck walls. Thank you!
Yes, it can.
Thank you!
I used Behr clear stain 7 months ago on a brand new deck, it looks horrible now, gray, peeling, rough, I need to redo it all over again, and thought about trying this brand. What do I need to do to get it ready? what does the prep involve? Do I need to sand it? hopefully not that will take hours. thanks
See this for help: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
We used to restore a deck system on “new” treated lumber that was almost 2-years-old. Unfortunately we have had significant pealing especially where it was exposed to direct sun. How do we recover from this crisis? I don’t understand what went wrong? The prep, bleach and staining was done over two days in October 2018, we are in SE Iowa.
Your pictures clearly show an extreme over application of the stain. The RAD stain is a penetrating stain that when applied correctly, fully soaks into the wood and does not create a shiny finish or dries to a film on top of the wood. In your pictures, it shows that too much stain was applied (very shiny) and it never had a chance to soak in fully. The stain is lifting from the surface because of this. Doesn’t matter what brand of penetrating stain that you would have used, you would have had the same result if over applied. The RAD is also supposed to be applied wet on wet if doing two coats. Not sure if you did this but if you applied wet on dry, that could create the issue.
As to fixing it, best to strip and start over. Applying only as much as the wood can absorb and you will not repeat the issue.
I had new pressure treated deck installed last August. Approximately 20′ x 30′ (600sf). I had planned to clear seal and let deck grey naturally. After reading your site comments, I am considering using light stain for UV protection. What do you recommend regarding color and amount of product?
Hi,
We have an older deck that looks like it had a semi-transparent stain put on many years ago. It is definitely not paint – can see all of the wood grain. We would like to use RAD. Do we need to strip the deck before using RAD?
Yes. Strip and brighten the wood.
We replaced our deck railing last March. Was told to wait 6 months to stain. Unfortunately, last year was a very wet year in WV (we are about 90 miles NW of Washington, DC) and we could not get the railing stained last year.
What should I do to prep the wood and which stain (probably want a semitransparent) would you recommend for our area. Deck is pretty much in full sun all day.
The wood parts are the frame for the top and bottom (2×4’s) and the 4×4 posts. The middle section is made from cattle fencing which we primed and painted black (no wood spindles). We get to enjoy the view so much more with this than with the wood spindle.
Thanks for your assistance.
Clean and brighten the wood with the Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with the Restore A Deck Wood Stain.
Purchased the sample package. Thoroughly cleaned a small area and applied all 4 colors to the damp boards. 2 hrs later looked at the sample area and they all looked the same with very little tint. I’m glad to have purchased the samples because after all the positive reviews I almost purchased the 8 gallons needed to stain my deck. So much for positive product reviews on the internet.
Really? It is impossible for 4 clearly different colors to all “stain” the same color so something had to have been done incorrectly in the prep or application for the stain colors to not take correctly.
My water base stain was red maple. Which product should I use. An where to purchase. This restore a deck stain.
I am sorry but I do not know what brand of stain that “red maple” is. We would need to know the brand name and the type of stain to determine how to prep and what to use after. Pictures would help as well.
Deck was water based last year,why is it slippery especially when wet
Restore A Deck Stain is a penetrating stain. It is not slippery when wet.
I used water based and deck is slippy what shall I do
As we mentioned previously, we do not what brand of stain that “red maple” is. We would need to know the brand name and the type of stain to determine how to prep and what to use after. Pictures would help as well.
I used Sico water based deck was power washed and sanded prior to deck was originally oil based
We live in central Indiana and had a new cedar fence installed in late Sept 2018. We let it weather over the winter and would like to prep and stain it with RAD cedar stain this Spring (2019). The fence is 6’ tall and 120’ long totaling 720 sqft on one side. Since it is new wood, I gather it will take two coats of stain. I plan to spray it on and back wipe it with the stain brush you sell. My question is: How much cleaner, Brightener, and stain should I buy?
10-15 gallons of the stain if doing both sides. That will vary based on the porosity of the wood.
2-3 each of the cleaner and brightener should work.
How Much Cleaning / Stripping / Brightening should be necessary if using Restore-a-deck over Olympic Maximum that was applied in 2015? The Olympic still looks pretty decent, but after readying mixed reviews and your review, I am thinking of switching. There has been No pealing, some fading, But is not exposed to full noon sun in most areas (covered). Present color is “Tobacco” which we really like and so also struggling to find a similar color – Dark Walnut?
Also I am torn between an Oil or Water based. But I guess for an oil I would almost have to fully remove the Olympic? There are a whole lot of tight spots in the deck that would make full removal and sanding impossible. I have narrowed it down to 3 of your top choices: Armstrong-Clark / Restor-a-deck / or TWP 100. Thoughts?
You will have to remove the Olympic no matter what when switching brands that are penetrating stains. Does not matter the type or stain brand you plan on using.
We had a cedar pergola built in September. It is still unfinished. I wonder if this product would work. If so, will I also need to prep?
It will work great for a pergola. Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener Kit for the prep. You have to prep.
Compared to other products, what makes this product ECO SAFE?
It has a VOC content less than 100 and it does not have any harmful fumes, chemicals, or solvents.
Thank you!
We did our deck 8 months ago, old wood but had never been stained. We did everything the instructions said from prep to stain and it took over 50 man-hours for our 600 sq foot deck. Now… it looks awful. It is peeling and dried looking everywhere. Pics are from now. We went with the highest rated stain and paid quite a bit more for it.
Hello,
Your issue is not a stain failure but an over application by whoever applied the stain. Restore-A-Deck is designed to fully soak into the wood. It cannot peel or wear if done correctly. In your picture, it shows that you applied too much stain to the point that it could not soak in but dry on top of the wood. That is why you are having issues in those areas.
BTW, it should not take 50 hours to do a 600 sq foot deck. More like 5-6 total hours. 2-3 hours for prep and 2-3 hours to stain. If you spent more than 2-3 hours staining than that could also be part of your issue. It applies fast and easy and the second coat must be applied wet on wet. That means 20-30 minutes after the first coat. If you applied your second coat to dry stain, then it could be prone to issues like this.
Thank you, I wonder if having it too hot outside means the first coat dried too soon (we did the 20-4- miute, erring on the side of 20, but still HOT outside in July, een in the early morning), so then it had this result. What is the optimal temperature range? Most of that time was prep so it is disheartening now to see this. What steps do we need to redo the horizontal surfaces? The vertial surfaces are all find, which is a relief because that is all the fine rails and spindles. Thank you!
Lightly strip or wash off the floors. Brighten after. Apply the RAD again. It will be easy since you are just doing the horizontals. Temp range for applying is best at 60-80 and not in direct sunlight if possible. Later in the day or earlier in the day.
I’m contemplating getting Restore-A-Deck and using the Natural. If I decide I want a darker stain when I add the second coat as recommended in 12 to 24 months, can I use a different color? Or would is look wonky? Thank you.
You can go darker but you always have to prep before reapplying.
And prepping before reapplying is true for staying with the same color or going darker, correct?
Yes.
Where can I buy Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain?
Check their website.
Thank you.
I live in the Oakland CA hills and have a large redwood deck. The deck is over 10 years old but it’s very good quality redwood and in decent shape. It was power washed, cleaned, and stained 4 years ago; I believe Superdeck was applied. The new contractor wants to clean and sand the decks, and then use Behr Premium but I read the reviews and now I’m very skeptical. Since Restore-A-Deck is highly recommended on this site I’m considering asking the contractor to use it instead. My question is that I don’t see a redwood natural color offered. The RAD website shows a natural color but it’s very light. I want the natural redwood color to show; will the RAD “natural semi-transparent” color stain do that? If so, there needs to be a redwood sample used with to show that.
Natural in the RAD stain will enhance the natural grain of your wood similar to a wet look. If you want a little more red than that, then use the Light Walnut.
Any reason why the Light Walnut was recommended versus the Cedar stain? I have a redwood deck that has been sanded and treated with wood cleaner and the Cedar stain from RAD looks like it’s closer to a redwood color but hard to tell. Any feedback is helpful. Thanks
The Cedar is more of a cedar/brown color while the Light Walnut is a reddish/brown color.
Thank you! Purchased Light Walnut. Now just need to ensure we nail the application.
Where did you buy the restore a deck stain?
Directly from their website.
I used this stain last Spring and so far so good. No issues at all and is holding the same color as when applied. Question though. When it is time to reapply, do I have to prep with the Restore A Deck 2 part system again?
Yes. You always have to prep when reapplying. This will ensure that the new coating will adhere well.
Thanks. Do I need the Brightener or the Cleaner for the prep when reapplying.
Cleaner for sure to remove any dirt and grime. Use the Brightener after to neutralize.