Staining A New Deck 4.9/5 (674)

by Deck Stain Help

This post was updated on January 13, 2022

Staining a New Deck in 2022

DeckStainHelp.com has become the Internet’s go-to website for all things exterior wood surface restoration-related. We recommend you wait 3+ months to stain new wood surfaces to allow the wood to weather, creating an ideal porous surface that will hold the stain better. The waiting period does vary based on the stain brand and type of wood. Our top stains for new wood are the Armstrong Clark and the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.

We encourage customer interaction on our site, so feel free to participate in our open discussion.


How Long Should you Wait to Stain a New Deck?

Over the past 10+ years, we have had numerous questions asked on the site, but none was asked more than “What stain or prep is needed for my new deck”? There seems to be an opinion among homeowners that it is okay to stain new wood right away or even before the deck is installed. This is incorrect for most wood types and stain brands.

In this article, we will cover the required prep and the waiting period needed before applying a stain for the first time.

New Smooth Wood

New Smooth Wood

New Smooth Decking

New smooth decking boards are not porous enough for most stains to be able to penetrate properly. This is mainly due to:

  • Mill glaze when cut
  • High moisture content
  • Chemicals in Pressure Treated Wood

Most wood stains, when applied to new wood will have a very difficult time of penetration into the wood cells. This will result in an uneven application and premature stain failure by quickly fading or peeling. Remember, the deeper the stain soaks into the wood, the longer the life of the stain.

How To Prep for New Smooth Wood:

  1. Install wood and let weather for 1-12 months. This varies depending on the stain brand. Read and follow the manufacturer’s directions
  2. After the waiting period, you should use a wood cleaner and a wood brightener. This will remove the dirt, UV graying, and mill glaze.
  3. Let the wood dry for a few days after the cleaning.
  4. Apply 1 Coat Only of the stain! Even after the waiting period, new wood is still not very absorbent. Over applying the stain will not give long-lasting results. One even coat that soaks into the wood is what you want to achieve.
  5. Be prepared to apply a maintenance coat in 12-18 months.

Once you get through the first couple of years, your deck stain will perform much better as the wood will allow more stain and deeper penetration into the wood.

TIP: Do not sand new wood. This will smooth the wood, reducing the stain’s ability to penetrate into the wood.

Rough Sawn Wood

Rough Sawn Wood

Rough or Rough Sawn Wood

Rough sawn wood is not used for horizontal decking surfaces, but rather verticals such as fencing, wood siding, etc. This side of the wood does not have a mill glaze and is very absorbent. As long as the wood has a low moisture content, it can be stained right away.

Stain Brands for New Wood

In our opinion, certain brands of stains will work better on new wood. Through the years we have tried numerous stains on new wood and we have found that stains that contain paraffin (non-drying oil) will penetrate into newer wood better, even coverage, and can be applied sooner.

We would suggest one of these brands for new wood if you do not want to wait 4-12 months to allow the wood to weather.

Best Deck Stains for New Wood

Armstrong Clark Wood Stain – Waiting period of 2-3 months

Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain – Waiting period of 3 months

Timber Oil Brand – Waiting period of about 1-2 months

If choosing one of these brands, you will still need to prep the wood to remove mill glaze with cleaning and brightening.

Staining a New Deck Tips Video – DeckStainHelp.com

Please ask any questions you have below.

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Steve
Steve
1 month ago

My wife and I are in the process of remodeling a cabin in Flagstaff, AZ. The contractor finished the redwood deck approximately 5 weeks go but it has not been stained. There has already been 1 snowfall and the daytime temperatures over the next 2 weeks are expected to run from the high 30s to the mid 40s. Are there significant risks to waiting until the spring to apply the stain? Also does the elevation (approximately 7000’) impact the choice of stain”

Steve
Steve
1 month ago

Thank you! What stain or deck oil do you recommend for a redwood deck that will be exposed to snow during the winter months?

Amanda
Amanda
1 month ago

Had a platform built for a hot tub coming in the next few weeks. The platform has been done for about 2 weeks. The they redid our deck. I’m fine with waiting to stain the deck but once the hot tub is in place and filled we won’t be able to move it. It’s huge. Any thoughts on what to do with the platform?

Last edited 1 month ago by Amanda
TJ Jackson
TJ Jackson
1 month ago

I am planning on replacing the old deck wood over an abandoned swimming pool in Phoenix Arizona. Not much rain but as intense of sun as it gets. I was planning on using Douglas Fir, same as what is used for 2×6 studs. I contacted Cabot and they stated that type of wood accepts stains well without weathering and they suggested a test to see if water would readily penetrate it and stated if it did then it was OK to apply immediately. I like this so that I can apply on all six sides before installation.
If heard a lot of pros and cons about Cabot. Some love it and some hate it. I called the Cabot company and it appears that they offer a true oil based stain as well as a “modified” oil based stain( OVC compliant). One cleans up with mineral sprits and one with soap and water. It appears that the oil based stains are only in smaller markets (meaning not big cities). I discovered that I could buy the real oil based Cabot Australian Timber oil semi-solid stain by purchasing in a nearby county (it is not sold in the Phoenix area).
What is your take on the above? I want good results and this gets full sun nearly all day. As I said, not much rain here, 6-8 inches annually but several feet of hot sun. I expect to have to recoat in a few years but don’t want a disaster. Your input appreciated.

Eileen
Eileen
2 months ago

Help? Very frustrated and I am holding up the contractor. We have a beautiful new pressure treated pine deck. It was built in July. For weeks, I’ve been looking for a stain that I like and we would go top of the line. The contractor uses Behr (open to others). I’ve had help at the store adjusting Behr color pigments and have tried 13 samples. No luck ugh. Art is a hobby so I am sensitive to colors. The yellow in the wood is an issue and I’ve used a color wheel and research to try to figure out how to compensate. In Northern Va, it is very warm for the next couple of weeks. 1- What should we do? Can the contractor use a waterproof sealer only for now and then stain in the Spring? Deck is large and gets sun. 2- Any quick advice or stain recommendations are appreciate. 3- Does a stain with gray hue help lessen the yellow? We don’t want solid but semitransparent and was hoping for an earthy, light brown or brownish gray. Feel free to email me. Photo of deck below. Thank you!

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Ron Priddy
Ron Priddy
2 months ago

Should you prime deck boards before using Defy solid stain

Kyle Varel
Kyle Varel
3 months ago

I installed a new pressure treated pine (YWood) in May, 2021. The deck was built over a brand new poured-concrete patio. I planned to seal (no stain) the decking, stairs, support posts, and exposed framing for the first time this fall. Will any of the chemicals you recommended for prep and sealing new decks damage/stain new concrete or painted brick? I’ll try to cover everything as best I can but something’s bound to splash or drip onto the concrete. I’m in Western Kentucky. Great website. Very informative. Thanks!

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Kyle Varel
Kyle Varel
3 months ago

Any chance either product will harm new concrete or painted brick?

rider
rider
2 months ago

why is it bad to get stain on concrete or brick please ?

Gregg Mattison
Gregg Mattison
3 months ago

I put in a pressure-treated deck in late July. Should I wait until spring to stain or can I do it in November?

Barry H Neumann
Barry H Neumann
3 months ago

what would be the best stain and sealer for new cedar, I live in Houston, TX

Matthew
Matthew
3 months ago

I’m prepping a new deck (just about twelve months old) for staining. I waited this long as I was planning to use a semi-solid, but now feel a semi- transparent would be a better long-term maintenance choice. I have completed the standard bleach-and-water and power washer prep and have filled a few small spots with wood filler. While everything is now drying, general appearance suggests that I have not prepared optimally; the ring stains left behind by my wife’s tomato plants really reinforce this.

I had planned to use a Cabot semi-solid, but now feel that either TWP 100 or Restore-A-Deck semi-trans would be much better choices. While neither might be immediately available, I’d be willing to postpone staining in order to use the best stain.

Any advice here regarding deck preparation, choice of stain or timing of application? I’d really welcome your advice.

Thank you for your help!

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Matthew
Matthew
3 months ago

The deck wood has aged almost twelve months. At this point, would two coats of TWP semi-trans be necessary, or would one coat suffice?

Regarding the Cape Cod Gray (TWP) and the Cottage Gray (RAD): I’d love to use either on a deck, but I’m concerned that they would start to look dirty or just not look quite right soon after applying either. Do you have any field experience with these colors on decks, or are they strictly a fence and lattice color?

Again, thank you!

Brian
Brian
3 months ago

I have a new 16×20 pressure treated pine deck in Alabama which was just completed. Plan for stain at least 3 months from now (gets a lot of direct sunlight)…. after reading your website (which is fantastic!) I am concerned about my stain choice coming up. I have a smaller deck on the other side of the house that I used Cabot Australian Timber Oil – Honey Teak on about 4 months ago and we love the look of it (did it about 6 months after it was built). Seems like you’re a bigger fan of the TWP 100. Given the size of my new deck I want to get this right and make maintenance as easy as possible… and it seems like maintenance is easier with TWP 100..? We had planned to use Cabot again to match the other deck but given the time and money invested in this large deck I want to use the best product (for look, wood preserving, and maintenance) regardless.. we’re okay if the match isn’t perfect if it saves headaches every 2-3 years. I guess I am saying should I use Cabot Timber Oil to match or switch to TWP 100 Thanks for this awesome website!

Brian
Brian
3 months ago

Will do. Thanks! After reading more on this site it looks like my deck is all KDAT wood..
1. so 1-2 months weathering process right? Lots of rain currently, not sure if this is hurting it
2. This puts me late Nov or December.. should I wait until spring or go ahead and do it? I don’t want to ruin the wood waiting another 4 months.

Live is Alabama so not exactly the coldest of winters.

Thanks for all the great information and answering all of our questions! Great site

Gary
Gary
3 months ago

I had a new covered deck built in May. The steps and 4×4 posts are ready to seal but the rest of the deck still beads water. Should I seal steps and posts now or wait till rest of deck is ready?

Sally
Sally
3 months ago

Hi, we have a new cedar fence that has aged 3 months. We share the fence with a neighbor and want to stain our side. If we use a sprayer will it run between boards to their side of the fence? Would we be better off with a brush?

Diane
Diane
4 months ago

Do you need to also seal a new deck after staining; I am cleaning it with the Restore a Deck product and then staining it with Restore a Deck. Do I also need to purchase a sealer. This is a new deck which has been weathered for about 5 months.

Diane
Diane
4 months ago

Thank you
Do I need to seal it at all, before it is stained. If so, is there a certain sealer which is recommended with Restore a deck products as I didn’t find one on their site.

Jena
Jena
4 months ago

Hi, I’m glad I found a place where I can ask a pro about exterior staining. I’m re-doing my old deck and I’m planning to replace the floor with PVC boards for longevity and easy maintenance, but the railing will be done with wooden posts, wire cable and same color PVC board on top. I really like the light grey look of sunbleached wood and I would really like to stain my wood railing posts and the “drink rail”-supporting 2×4 to make it look like it came from a beach boardwalk. The posts will be new and treated, so there might be some green tint on them. I understand that I will need to leave them to dry for a few months, so I won’t stain until spring. Do you have any tips how I can achieve that natural grey weathered look? Thank you in advance!

Tina
Tina
4 months ago

We have a brand new deck made with UN-treated cedar. How long is the waiting period to seal and stain a deck that has NOT been pressure treated or does it need to be sealed asap? Also, do you recommend an oil based semi-transparent sealer/stain and if so, which brand/type do you recommend? The deck is on oceanfront property on an island in the Puget Sound in Washington State and the deck is approx 1500 sq ft. Thank you!

Joe Hotkewicz
Joe Hotkewicz
4 months ago

I replaced four boards on my old deck with pressure treated lumber and did the water bead test. The old wood unserved the water but new wood beaded. I wanted to seal and stain the whole deck (12’ x 14’) before winter. It’s now September 12. I watched a YouTube video and in it they said there is a formula to treat the new wood to be able to seal and stain it much earlier. Are you familiar with this procedure and does it work? What should I use?

Theresa
Theresa
4 months ago

Hi – I have a new wood cedar deck that has been weathering for about 8 months. I plan on using Restore-A-Deck semi transparent stain for the deck floor and Defy Extreme Solid stain for the railing and posts so I can custom color match the stain to my house trim. Is it okay to clean and brighten the railings and posts with the RAD cleaner and brightener even though I will be using Defy stain on them? Also, for the pressure washer what tip should I use so I do not damage the wood? Thanks so much!

Theresa
Theresa
4 months ago

Thanks for the reply! The area I am staining with the RAD is 290 sq ft. Will 2 gallons be enough to cover it with one coat? How long does product last if I have left over product opened or unopened? Thanks again!

Theresa
Theresa
4 months ago

Thank you!

Theresa
Theresa
4 months ago
Reply to  Theresa

Last question…I hope! If after cleaning and brightening my deck it rains before I stain it, is it necessary to clean and brighten again? Thanks again for all your help, it’s appreciated!

Theresa
Theresa
4 months ago

I’m a bit confused as to how long I need to wait after cleaning and prepping my deck until I can stain. I am using Defy solid stain for railings and RAD semi-transparent for the deck floor. Both products say they can be applied the same day as cleaning and prepping, but I have seen on your site somewhere that deck needs to be bone dry before applying a solid stain. How long after clean & prep do I have to wait before applying solid stain? RAD can be applied to damp wood correct? Thanks!

Theresa
Theresa
4 months ago

My deck is cleaned and prepped and now working around weather to get it stained. I think these are my final questions…

  1. If it rains do I need to wait 48 hrs to stain for both products I’m using: RAD semi-trans and Defy Solid stain?
  2. For RAD, one coat this year and another in 12-18 months?
  3. For Defy, apply two coats now? Do the 2 coats need to be applied the same day? If so, how long to wait between coats?
  4. How long do RAD cleaner & brightener last once opened?
  5. I hope weather works in my favor, but what is the absolute longest I can go between cleaning and staining before I would need to clean deck again?

Thank you so much for this site and all your answers to my many questions!!!

Theresa
Theresa
4 months ago

Thanks! For the brightener & cleaner, I meant how long does the leftover dry material last once the bags have been opened?

Samantha
Samantha
4 months ago

Do you have to weather Douglas Fir Plywood Sheathing? Or can you stain it immediately? Are there any special staining instructions for Plywood sheathing since we aren’t using traditional deck planks? We live by the coast.

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Steven
Steven
4 months ago

I just installed a tongue and groove covered front porch with African tally wood two weeks ago. There are a few inconsistencies With the thickness So I’m having a floor refinisher go over it with a flooring sander this week. I’m not familiar with this wood And can find very little information on it, it is similar to ipe But I would say it’s not quite as hard. I’m thinking of using the Armstrong Clark Or the defy product Labeld for exotic hardwoods. The porch gets morning sun and I’m in South Carolina so high humidity Will be a factor. Anything I missing here? Is there another product I should be looking at? How long after sanding do I need to wait to apply product? Thank you!

Steven
Steven
4 months ago

What is the optimal recommended clean and prep product for exotic hardwood?

LuLu
LuLu
4 months ago

Just had new redwood deck installed around driveway leading to house entrance. Live in San Francisco Bay area, lots of fog/moisture in the am and direct sun in afternoon. Trying to decide between water and oil based. I read your article, but still confused. Thanks for your assistance!

LuLu
LuLu
4 months ago

We did have some mildew issues on one side, that is located under redwood trees. Does that have a bearing on oil or water based?

Tahir Mirza
Tahir Mirza
5 months ago

Hi, thanks for the advice on here. Really helped in my education!

I’ve recently bought Iroko hardwood with some oil. However, i didn’t get a chance to oil it before then rain hit the decking! And now i’ve got rain damage. 🙁
Not sure what to do next so have some questions please.
1/ Is the hardwood ruined?
2/ Should I oil them now to prevent further damage?
2/ Should I lay the decking and then oil them? 3/ How do I remove the obvious rain damage?

Thanks in advance!

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Tahir Mirza
Tahir Mirza
5 months ago

Thank you!
When you say ‘clean and brighten’ what should i use?

And can I ask what you mean by ‘weather and prep’?

Carrie
Carrie
5 months ago

I bought RAD and I’m getting ready to put cleaner/ brighter on. It’s over 90% humidity in AL right now. Should I wait? I was going to do cleaning/ brightening today and then if weather looks ok tomorrow or next weekend stain. Is it bad if it rains on cleaner/ brightener?

david welsh
david welsh
5 months ago

Is there any stain that can be applied to new wood? I have an old deck that I have power washed and I am replacing some wood that has rotted… I need a stain that can go on the older wood and any wood that has been used for replacement. Is there any stain that exist for this application? Gulf Synthetics DeckRevive says it can do it, but no one else can??? Seems fishy to me….. any advice would great as you guys seem to be a non-bias expert.

Nathan
Nathan
5 months ago

We just completed construction of a new redwood deck and are leaning towards letting it go to a natural gray finish rather than staining. Of course we still want to treat/seal the wood for longevity, and do proper cleaning/brightening prep beforehand as indicated on this site.

My questions:

  1. In our case, should we clean & brighten now so the graying process can start before we seal it in 2-4+ months? Or would you still recommend waiting before cleaning & brightening, and sealing shortly afterwards?
  2. Which sealing product do you recommend for our purposes? We’re in a mountain climate with hot, dry summers and cold/wet/snowy winters.

Thanks so much.

Rich Adams
Rich Adams
5 months ago

We have just purchased freshly sawn, vertical gain, incense cedar 2×6 deck boards that were planed and then sanded. It was our intention to oil stain with semi-transparent oil based deck stain on all sides of the boards prior to installation. We live within a mile of the ocean and it rains (hopefully) quite a bit here in the PNW and our intention is to use (Sikken) or now, PDG oil based, tinted semi-transparent stain/sealer. This wood hss 12 to16% moisture content. Not wanting to wait for weathering, what other tips might be helpful?

George Silver
George Silver
6 months ago

I have an old deck made from presuretreated 2X6 . I plan on removing the boards, planing off 1/4inch, route a round edge (will make them 5/4 deck boards) and putting back down. The surface will be smooth, old and dry, but with a mill glaze I guess.I want to use TWP Semi-Solid Pro-Series stain. Do I consider the boards as “new” or can I get right on the staining?

Cheryl
Cheryl
6 months ago

I have a new wood deck that was power washed and then stained 3 months after installation. The wood has what appears to be “etched” stains on it as if it were dirty/muddy. The stainer used a combination product from Home Depot of stain and sealer. I attached pic of deck. Any suggestions as to what these “spots” are and how they can be removed? Thank you.

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Susan
Susan
6 months ago

We have a decking/railing on the Louisiana coast – brand new wood – treated – 6+ months old. Leaning toward Cabot Australian Timber or Olympic oil base stains. What do you recommend? This will be our 3rd attempt in 6 years to get it right, with the brand new wood.

Susan
Susan
5 months ago

Wow! Thanks for the quick reply! Two more questions please:

  1. With the extremely hot temps and salty air environment, how many years do you think TWP (or Restore) will hold up before having to re-apply?
  2. Would 1500 series be better/longer lasting than 100 series?

Thank you,

Gail Rushton
Gail Rushton
6 months ago

I have stained my deck and have some overlaps. Everything I read online says to soak a rag in mineral spirits and rub out the overlaps. Would this method work with a water based stain as well.

Cynthia Lipka
Cynthia Lipka
6 months ago

Hello ~ I live in the Chicagoland area. I just had some new fencing put in and a sun screen. Wood is of course new and rough sawn. The wood is about 3 months old now. What do you recommend for a semi-transparent stain on this? Can I use a paint sprayer? What kind of brush do I need? Thank you very much,
Cyndie

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Cynthia Lipka
Cynthia Lipka
6 months ago

Hi – the deck is being replaced. This is only for the fence and sun shield.

Sam
Sam
6 months ago

Hello- this cedar deck was just installed. Is this a scenario where we will need to weather for 3+ months rather than sand prior to staining? Is the sealing process step two post stain? Tysm!

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Wanda
Wanda
6 months ago

How to clean and stain a deck that was repaired and has a combination of old and new spindles and old planks?

David
David
6 months ago

I had a contractor install a small new redwood deck and a new gate. They chose to use miniwax stain (a non-exterior oil-based stain). And it occurred to me that they clearly didn’t know what they were doing.

This was about 3 months ago. The deck is starting to look pretty bad, it has a strange inconsistent faded color from occasional wetness and looks rather dry. Part of the gate is starting to lift up from dryness. I’m not sure what the best steps are from here. I live in Southern California.

I want to apply a new oil-based semi-transparent stain and provide some protection to the wood. Is there reason to wait further? Should I just sand the wood down a little now and leave it exposed and then wait a few months?

David
David
6 months ago

Any particular reason you’d recommend TWP 1500 Vs TWP 100? Where I’m located rain/cold isn’t as much of an issue as the heat/sun.

I’ve read from the TWP website that they recommend the RAD Stain Stripper for “old failed stains”, it was an oil based stain, so not topical. I’m curious should that be attempted in lieu of sanding? Then for sanding, 80 grit?

I keep reading about pressure washing as a possibility, would that work?

Jay
Jay
6 months ago

I have new cedar deck and siding that has weathered 9 months in eastern Iowa. What product would you recommend?

Thank you! Great site. Nice to see independent help from contractors.

Jay
Jay
4 months ago

Just to clarify: TWP100 for the rough hewn cedar siding and RAD for the deck milled cedar?…. or either for both?
Thanks!

Nina
Nina
6 months ago

We just built a deck around the above ground pool using treated pine. In the fall I would like to stain the deck a grey color. Do you have a recommendation on Stain Brand and type of stain? I am concerned with using a semi solid like Cabot as I do not want the peeling. I have been researching brands and it is overwhelming with the reviews – good and bad. Thank you

Nina
Nina
6 months ago

Southern illinois

Joshua Wuillamey
Joshua Wuillamey
6 months ago

I have a new patio cover I just had installed. Apparently, it needs to be either painted or stained before the final inspection, and I have only 6 months before the permit expires. How long should I wait before staining? Based on what I’ve read here, it seems fine to let it sit through a winter season untreated. Since I live in Bakersfield, Ca., I don’t really expect too much rainfall anyway. Honestly, I’m just wondering if I should have the permit for the patio cover extended. Thank you.

Pam
Pam
7 months ago

Hi, we’re about to install a new wood deck (decking boards will be doug fir). I’ve read the article and know that we’ll need to wait to stain. First question: Once installed, can we sand the deck and then let it weather for a couple of months before we stain it? The reason I ask is because there are a lot of splintered bits along the edges, and I want to prevent them from getting in my children’s feet. If we rent a deck sander, will this also knock off any of the mill stamps? We live in Montana, so our weather window for staining is either within this first 3 months after installing the decking, or next summer. Next question: my husband wants to stain all four sides of the boards to help the deck last longer, but I read on your site that the wood needs to breathe. We’ve already stained what will be the bottom board of about 12 boards — should we stop doing that? Will it harm the deck that we stained those boards? We’re planning to use Armstrong Clark stain, as it was one recommended for new wood. Thanks in advance for your help.

JAMES
JAMES
7 months ago

Hi – we just had a new redwood deck installed (two days ago). there are contractor crayon marks on some of the planks. He advised to sand those off before staining. I did sand two off but it has made the plank look patchy. Does this mean i have to sand the whole deck to even it out? or will the patches go after some weathering? thanks! Photos attached.

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JAMES
JAMES
7 months ago

thank you for the quick response. Can i also ask why it goes a different shade – is there a coating on the boards as part of the lumber process that comes off when sanded?

JAMES
JAMES
7 months ago

thank you again for your reply – very helpful.

zee
zee
7 months ago

Hi! This is such a great website! I am currently getting a new cedar deck installed in the Pacific Northwest, and the contractors asked what color stain we wanted. What will the difference be if we have them stain it as they finish their job versus having them come back 3 months later to stain it (not sure if they will do this)? Also are oil-based stains safe for young children after they are applied and dried?

zee
zee
7 months ago

Thanks!

zee
zee
7 months ago

Thank you for the quick response! Do we need to keep the deck clear for 3 months? No walking on it, no putting furniture on it, no grilling, etc.? What will happen if we stain it right away?

anna carsen
anna carsen
7 months ago

Thanks for all the great advice on this site. We cleaned, sanded, then cleaned with light detergent and then stained a very large 4 year old mahogany deck with Messemers UV Plus (we did not use a brightner before staining which I think we should have?). We made sure it was completely dry for 3 days before staining. We let first coat dry and then gave a second coat. However we did not realize you needed to wipe excess oil off after 30 mins. The deck is very dark in places which we can live with but it also has some tacky/sticky spots with what look like small beads of sticky oil. the deck gets alot of sun and its been a week and is getting a bit better. Do we wait and see if it gets absorbed over time or do we need to strip/sand and re-apply stain ?

Fletch
Fletch
7 months ago

Thanks for all the information here! I have OLD redwood 2×6 decking boards that have been sitting on my side yard for nearly 10 years. I ran them through the jointer and planer today to clean them up and they look like new. Once I am done building and sanding, should this wood be considered old or new? Do I still have to let it go through a weathering process prior to staining. In other words, what process and products do you recommend with respect to staining this old wood?

thelilpups
thelilpups
7 months ago

Hi guys,

Lee here again, hopefully for the last time this season. Moving over from the Stripping vs. Cleaning page as my next question concerns TWP stain. First, I must say that you were right, the brightener is my friend. It really took care of the dark blotchy areas on the cedar left by the chemical reaction of the stripper. Thank you!

So a quick recap. Two years ago I finished a new cedar deck in August without enough time to season and stain it before the raining season of the NW set in. Therefore I waited until May 2020, applying one coat of TWP 101 Cedartone. Unfortunately that stain failed over last winter on the main deck (chipping) but not on the connected porch. My theory was that the wood of the deck was still a little wet down in the pores from the prep process.

So I have now stripped, sanded fuzzies and residual stain with 80 grit, cleaned and brightened both the deck and the porch for consistency per your recommendations. Since the wood is now bare, should I be putting on one coat again with a maintenance coat next year or since the deck is almost two years old, should I be putting on two coats, wet on wet if the first one soaks in? (If the later, I should order more stain now before I begin.) Another option might be one coat now and another in early fall but this would force another round of cleaning and brightening – augh.

Thanks again for all the help. Far too much time into this one, hence I’m ready to get it right and move into a yearly maintenance coat.

V/r,
Lee

thelilpups
thelilpups
7 months ago

In some of your other discussions, I’ve seen you’ve mentioned waiting after sanding – somewhat similar to new wood. I would rather proceed with the TWP 101 stain again if possible (once the weather cooperates) as we are hoping to move back on to the deck as soon as possible. On the other hand, I don’t want a premature failure like last winter as I want to get this deck into a yearly clean, brighten and stain maintenance cycle. Please advise and thank you,

thelilpups
thelilpups
7 months ago

Soaks in. Sounds like it is good to stain?

It doesn’t look like I have a weather window for at least another week for an oil stain. Per your directions, now that I have sanded with 80 grit to remove fuzzies and some residual stain, I was going to clean and brighten with the RAD prep kit then let dry for 5 days before staining. To avoid more fuzzies, I was not going to power wash this time, just rinse both solutions with a strong nozzle on a garden hose. Neither the RAD cleaner or the brightener should make more fuzzies with a garden hose rinse, correct? Otherwise, I’m just undoing the sanding effort and going in circles.

thelilpups
thelilpups
7 months ago

Thanks! May I ask you one more question? We are thinking of switching from TWP to RAD stain now that the deck is stripped and sanded, only because the late spring weather in the NW can be tough to get a dry deck both before and after staining for a number of days. However, as an oil base we are thinking TWP probably looks nicer and holds up better so it is a tough choice. Is this your experience?

Carrie A
Carrie A
7 months ago

We are ready to stain our pressure treated pine deck that was completed in late September. From what I read the Restore a Deck is the best option for us if we are trying to complete this quickly. Do we need to order all steps since the deck is relatively new and clean? Also, we live in AL so we are in hot and humid summer already. It is supposed to be in the 80’s with 40% humidity coming up. Will we still be ok?

Jacqueline Robertson
Jacqueline Robertson
8 months ago

Hello, in the process of staining new deck that is almost 1 year old, pressure treated wood, first time stain that has lots of sun exposure. The first coat of Behr premium semi transparent waterproofing stain sealer was applied about 4 days ago and the deck is sticky and looks blotchy. Lots of discoloration. Not sure should what to do to correct. And have watched so many DIY videos and read reviews and very frustrated and don’t want to make this worse. Please help! Thanks for your time.

Jacqueline Robertson
Jacqueline Robertson
8 months ago

Thanks for your response, I read In some
Of your other responses that sanding wasn’t good for new wood and very concerned. Also, what brand do you recommend for deck with high sun exposure. Thanks

Jacqueline Robertson
Jacqueline Robertson
8 months ago

Ok Thanks

Jeffrey Withey
Jeffrey Withey
8 months ago

About two weeks ago the contractor finished our deck…it is 100% built with pressure treated lumber… If I am understanding correctly we are not to aabd or treat the deck wood with anything perhaps till next spring…we live in Central Illinois…the lumber was purchased from a big box store and there are some ‘stamped’ numbers and letters I’d like to remove before we apply a stain to the wood as well as some work boot tread prints on the lumber ….do you think those will come off when we do our cleaning next spring, or can we sand those off before staining?? Also, please let me know what is the best cleaner to use and allow to dry for a month or di and what is the stain that you’d recommend for this type of wood?

Jason Noll
Jason Noll
8 months ago

I have a new deck (finished a month ago) with Spiced Rum Trex Composite floor, Trex Vintage Lantern posts and caps and custom Doug Fir railings with hogwire. (see pic) I’d like to stain or darken the rails to match the posts. Can I stain them right away? I was told I could. I know that certain wood needs to time to weather before staining but I can’t find any information about Doug fir needing to weather. My builder said to use CWF penetrating oil and it will darken up. Not sure that is going to happen with that product.

I’m thinking my process will be to use Restore-a-deck cleaner and brighter, then use either Ready Seal stain or Cabot. Any advise? Thanks!

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Bryanna Harris
Bryanna Harris
8 months ago

Hello,

I am getting ready to redo my existing old weathered deck. I live in Nevada where the weather can have hot and cold extremes. The deck is in full sun. The deck was previously stained yet it is 99% gone now. The wood is very dry, gray, and rough in some areas (splinters!), yet the cedar boards are still solid. I have been doing a tone of research and I am still conflicted about how to go about the steps for prepping. I read some places that say do not sand the deck, just use a cleaner and brighter. I’m afraid if I do this the deck will remain rough. Others say sand the deck, use cleaner and brighter, do touch up sanding if furring occurs and then finish. Which is better?? I plan on using an oil based sealer instead of staining if that changes any of the prep steps. Please, anyone have any input?? I’ll try to upload a photo of the current condition of the wood. Thank you in advanced!!!

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Bryanna Harris
Bryanna Harris
8 months ago

Thank you very much for that response! I forgot to ask earlier about my deck railing. I will be replacing my railing with new wood. What’s the best preparation process in your opinion? Can I do it at the same time I do the deck floor?

Liz
Liz
8 months ago

Installed a pressure treated pool deck last July. Looking for right stain to protect from pool water and sun. Would like to sand some area where screws left splinters. Please tell me what stain and can I sand area lightly. NWohio

Jim Speros
Jim Speros
8 months ago

I just had an IPE deck installed with a mahogany top rail. I purchased Cabot Australian Timber Oil (Natural) to oil the top rail where guests frequently put their drinks. Is this a good product for use on the Mahogany top rail? Is it ok to leave the Ipe deck just weather and turn gray or should it be treated too? If treated, how long should I wait? Thanks for your help.
Jim Speros

David Wells
David Wells
8 months ago

Our cedar deck was installed almost 4 years ago and we are staining it for the first time. Should we power wash to remove the oxidation, use a cleaner, or both?