Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown
Update The Best Deck Stains 2019
Please read this article and post any questions you have in the comment are below. Our newly enhanced website now offers the ability to upload and post pictures of your exterior wood or deck. This will help us determine the proper prep and overall condition of your deck, leading to better performance.
This is an updated version of our most popular article What is the Best Deck Stain? We have had over 17,000 Q&A questions for the first article, helping consumers find the best wood and deck stain for their deck and specific environment.
The point of this article and DeckStainHelp.com is to offer guidance in choosing a quality deck stain that works well and will not create larger issues down the road when time to reapply. We have updated our original article by including answers to some of the most popular questions that we receive.
Here are some of the more popular answers to the most common questions:
- No deck stain will last 5+ years. A good quality stain will last 2 or maybe 3 years on a deck floor (horizontal) and typically twice as long on railings, siding, etc. (verticals).
- Penetrating stains will have less chance of peeling as they soak into the wood grain and do not film on top of the wood grain when fully cured.
- Penetrating deck stains are easier to maintain by cleaning and reapplying after 2-3 years.
- Filming Deck Stains that dry on top of the wood are harder to remove and/or reapply as they are more prone to peeling, wear, flaking, etc.
- Not all Deck Stains are penetrating. Even when they claim otherwise.
- Semi-transparent, Transparent, and Semi-Solids will show the grain of the wood to some extent. Solid stains, Deck Resurface Coatings, and Paints will not.
- Clear sealers without any pigment/color will not prevent UV graying. Lighter Pigmented stains that are Transparent, Semi-Transparent, or Semi-solid will have less UV protection than Darker Pigmented stains in the same transparency. More color/tint = better UV protection.
- Deck Stains are either Oil Based or Water Based. Filming or penetrating. Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, Solid (opaque) Stains or a Deck Resurface Coating. See here for more info on Deck Stain Types.
- Oil-based stains can still be used in all States and Canada as long as they are compliant to local VOC regulations.
- When switching brands of deck stain it is always best to remove the old coating first. Do this by using a Deck Stain Stripper and/or sanding.
- Always apply a Wood Brightener after prepping with a Stain Stripper or Wood Deck Cleaner to neutralize the caustic.
- New Decks (less than a year) are treated differently than older decks (more than 1 year). New decks need to be prepped and usually cannot be stained right away. See this about Staining New Decks.
- Prep, Prep, Prep = increased longevity of a stain.
What is the Best Deck Stain For My Deck?
This is the top question by far that we have gotten on DeckStainHelp.com. Unfortunately, there is not a “best” deck stain out there that will outperform every other stain, every single time.
A better way to approach this common question is to ask, “what is the best stain for my deck and it’s environment?” A wood deck stain that performs well in humid South Carolina does not mean it will perform well in the snowy Midwest states. VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) Laws come into effect for different parts of the country as well. This may limit what is available in your state or country. For example, TWP 100 cannot be used in 17 states and Canada that have a low VOC content of 250.
To understand a deck stain and its potential longevity, we should first look at why deck stains fail:
- UV rays from the sun will damage the wood resulting in degradation of the wood cellular structure. This will break down the stain while causing the wood to oxidize (turn gray).
- Water, snow, and ice will cause damage to the wood by breaking down the exposed cell structure.
- Freeze/thaw will expand and contract the wood resulting in the stain “bond” with the wood cells to fail.
- Mold, mildew, and algae will leave the wood unsightly/dirty and can result in rotting.
- High traffic areas will wear faster.
- The previous stain used was of low quality or applied poorly.
- The Stain was not applied properly or the wood was not prepped properly prior to application. Bad prep is the number one reason stains prematurely fail!
Once we figure out the main reasons for failure, then we should research what stains would better for your deck or exterior wood.
In our example deck, we will ask 5 questions. Based on these answers (Answers are in Red) we will narrow the choices to 2-3 stain brands:
Example Deck Questions and Answers:
- Deck Location State: Michigan
- Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
- Wood Type: Cedar
- Mold or Mildew Issues: No
- The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Dried Blotchy and Peeled after first Winter.
- Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Behr Premium Semi-Transparent
Michigan is currently a high 550 VOC state, so all decking stains are currently available. If you reside in Canada, East Coast States, or California, then you may have different options. We would suggest a penetrating stain semi-transparent or semi-solid stain that does well with UV protection and fades evenly over time. Making future reapplication easier.
Based on these questions and answers we would suggest one of these stains:
- TWP 100 Series (TWP 1500 if you are in a Low VOC State)
- Armstrong Clark Deck and Wood Stain
- Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain
- Defy Extreme Wood Stain
Ask in Comment Section Below. Make Sure to Include Answers to the 5 Questions.
Feel free to ask what are “the best deck stains for my deck”? Just post a comment below and make sure to include the answer to the 6 questions.
Adding a picture or two of the current condition will help!
Feel free to include any additional information that would be useful!
i used cetol dek stain- Very expensive and requires two coats which doubles the already expensive price.
Deck Location State: Seattle
Partial Shade – Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
Wood Type: Brazilian Mahogany
Mold or Mildew Issues: Mild
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: poor maintenance
Previous Coating – Cabot’s semitransparent
Strip and brighten for prep. Stain with Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Wood stains.
We will appreciate any guidance you might offer:
Deck Location State: Anchorage / Eagle River, Alaska
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Partial shade in AM, full sun in PM
Wood Type: Cedar (approximately 20 years old)
Mold or Mildew Issues: Not much now. When deck was new, we did have those problems from using a Behr product
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Our main issue is letting maintenance wait a few years after previously keeping up more consistently.
Previous Coating? Originally used Behr, but don’t have clear recollections of what we used in between that original application and the most recent stain (possibly 5 or more years ago), which was Cabot Australian Timber Oil #3400 Natural.
We are concerned with harming various perennials, raspberries, etc. growing under this 700 sq foot second story deck. So we’ve avoided the more intense strippers / brighteners. We have scrubbed the railing with Oxy Clean, vinegar, pressure washed and sanded (60 or 80 grit depending on particular area).
We did do some damage with pressure washing that was too aggressive. For the deck not yet prepped (see photo; we can add photos if that would help), we now plan to lightly pressure wash, sand the with a random orbital sander, and then stain. Do you think that makes sense for prepping? Should we send additional photos? What stain would you recommend? Thank you!
You will need to remove all of the current stain and that will require stripping and sanding if you want to use a semi-transparent stain. Another option is to apply a solid color deck stain over this. That will be more prone to peeling though. Which would you prefer? Strip and sand or cover with a solid stain?
Thanks for your reply. We do not want a solid stain, so we would prefer to strip and sand. We would still like to protect our plants & flowers as much as possible, so methods of stripping will matter.
See this and the RAD Stain Stripper: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
We have three follow up questions:
1) In addition to the RAD Stain Stripper & booster, do we need to use a brightener? If so, the same brand or another?
2) Although we will do our best to minimize any of these products getting on our raspberry plants and other perennials, do you know how harmful they are for plant life?
3) What semi-transparent stain would you recommend for cedar deck in southcentral Alaska?
Thanks!
1. Yes, you always brighten after stripping. Use the same brand.
2. Cover them so the stripping does not “burn” the leaves from overspray. It will not harm the root system.
3. Not sure what decent brands are sold in Alaska. Many or all of the ones we use and suggest are not sold there.
What is the best and most long lasting deck stain/paint for Indiana.
Mostly exposed to sun with some limited shade in afternoon. This is an older deck more than 15 years. But wood is solid.
Try TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Wood Stains.
Andy,
Location: Prescott, AZ – 5550 ft. elevation.
Afternoon Full Sun, South & West facing.
Wood: Redwood from ~2003 I installed using screws from underneath deck.
Mold or Mildew Issues: none, too dry.
Previous Stain: Only have used Messmer’s U. V. Plus (redwood color) every few years. Sanded deck before previous application.
Applied stain with garden sprayer and used roller to back roll.
I have a lot of dark areas. I have a pressure washer and a 15″ disk commercial sander, belt sander, and orbital sander.
What do you suggest I do to restore the desk? I had planned to sand and brighten/clean before any application.
Rails and slats are very dark, so need something to make lighter. I want to apply redwood color again. What products do you suggest I use?
Strip and brighten for prep is the correct way. Stain with TWP 100 series or Armstrong Clark stains.
Should I use the Restore-A-Deck Cleaner or Stripper Kit? How about the two additives to help strip the spindles? Pressure wash before or after stripping/cleaning? Sand before or after pressure wash? Just trying to do things in the right sequence. Here is one more picture of railing.
Stripper Kit. The additives will help. Sand after and only if needed.
Would the Restore-A-Deck Stripper/Cleaner Kit be best to use? Should I use the additives to better clean/strip the spindles? Should I still pressure wash the deck? Should I sand before/after stripping? What is the correct order to do these things? I just want to be correct this time around. Here is another picture of the handrail.
I am from Iowa both decks are in full sun and are made of spf- sprouse pine fur. They will built 2 years ago and have not been stained
Clean and brighten the wood for prep. Stain with Armstrong Clark. Look at one of their semi-solid colors for best UV protection when in full sun.
25 year old pressure treated deck still in great shape. Used to clean down to bare wood every year (can’t stand weathered wood) and stain with California Storm Stain Semi-Transparent latex slight honey color and that deck always looked as if it had just been built. Got sick, totally neglected deck for about 4 years. Will be pressure washed next week. Where can I find California Storm Stain? Or what is close enough to use as a substitute?
Location – Mass
Shade a.m. partial shade p.m.
No mold or mildew is cleaned every year.
No idea as to where to find that brand of stain. If you switch brands, you will need to strip or sand off the current coating.
Deck location Fire Island NY
Shade and some sun. Want to use oil based product. contractor suggested Cabot or Thompsons. Either one better? Or other product better? We have mixed boards. Some were just replaced. This is block from the ocean
Both of those brands have issues. Look at TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Wood stains.
Last one
Limited by file size, here are some more images
Deck Location State: Nebraska
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun most of the day
Wood Type: Cedar planks, treated pine for railing
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: N/A. Nothing has been applied for over 10 years
Previous Coating? Maybe 15 years ago, Cabot semitransparent stain….?
Deck has been prepped with deck cleaner and power wash.
The rail was installed about 4 years ago, treated pine, never been stained.
Couple of questions:
1) oil versus penetrating water-based?
2) what type of cedar do you think it is. I am thinking Western or eastern red cedar.
3) stain recs
Any of the above appreciated, thx
-Wes
1. Either is fine as long as it is penetrating.
2. Not sure from the pics.
3. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Do you rec any of those brands from that link or the top rated one?
Deck Location State: Pennsylvania
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Partial shade, some in full sun
Wood Type: Old PT pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: In shaded parts
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Time to re stain
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Floods semi Transparent.
Would a solid stain help mask some of the cracks and the age of the wood?
Solid stains since they film on top of the wood will be more prone to peeling down the road on the flooring. We would stay semi-transparent for this deck. Prep with a stripper and wood brightener. Stain with TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark wood stains.
The picture of the larger portion of the deck is after power washing with a brightener. Does it look adequate for applying stain as is or should more prep be done?
You cannot apply a different brand of stain over the Flood. It needs to be stripped.
Thanks! What if I use the Flood stain again? Need to strip or not?
No need to strip if using the same brand and type of stain.
Deck Location State: Alberta, Canada
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun
Wood Type: Pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure:deck was built in 1991, this is the first time it is being redone, it had a grey solid paint on it that is extremely worn now
Previous Coating? unsure… definitely a solid light grey paint or solid stain
The deck has some cracks in it and is pretty dull looking, I would have loved to do a semi-translucent stain but after some research that doesn’t seem like the greatest option since the deck is so old and worn. However, some of the products like behr deckover and deck correct seem like they chip quickly and are maybe hot to walk on when in full sun… we want to stain it a nice true dark brown and my husband is very concerned about some of the cracks and wants them filled if possible.
For a solid stain, look at one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Wood filler does not work well on decks. Cracks out.
Deck location is Denver, Colorado
Deck is on west side of house, so full, intense sun from noon until 7 pm
Wood type is mahogany
No mold or mildew issues
Not sure if stain failed per se, but wonder if there is a more long-lasting option?
Previous stain was Cabot Australian Timber Oil, which I applied last fall over the prior year’s timber oil (without sanding or conditioning). I would like to sand and condition this year. Is there a specific type of sandpaper that is made for mahogany / hardwood?
Best to strip and brighten first. Use Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener. After, if needed, you can lightly sand with 8 grit paper. Switch to Armstrong Clark Stain in Mahogany or Amber color.
We live in North Carolina. Our deck was built out of treated wood about 10 years ago and has never been stained or had anything on it. I’ve cleaned it with a deck cleaner and then pressure asked it. Now I want to stain it but I have no idea where to start. I was thinking semi-solid in hopes of covering most of the flaws but not the grain. But again, I’m so unsure. We have full sun in the summer months until around 2 in the afternoon. Then the shade hits.
Look at Armstrong Clark Stain in a semi-solid color.
Deck Location State: Upstate New York
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun
Wood Type: Cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: No stain – 2 year old deck – some of the wood pieces feathering
Previous Coating? None
I would like to stain and seal the deck. What process and products would you recommend? We pressure washed the deck and it still has a grey color.
Use a deck cleaner while pressure washing, wood brightener after. Stain with TWP 1500 Series or Restore A Deck Wood Stains.
Deck location: Atlantic City NJ – On the water
Full sun all the time
Pressure treated pine
No mold or mildew issues
Reason for previous stain failure- n/a
Previous coating: nothing, deck is 2 years old
Question: What is best and easy when it comes to redue in a couple of years. Old or waterbased?
Thank you for your help
Anting that is fully penetrating is the easiest to clean and recoat down the road. Look at one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Make sure to prep. Clean and brighten.
Deck Location State: Ontario, Canada
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Deck mostly covered, stairs get sun most of the day
Wood Type: Pressure treated
Mold or Mildew Issues: Don’t think so
The deck is 4 years old and has never been sealed or any product put on it. The wood has has certainly lost colour and is quite dry – it’s also a small one, about 5.5×12 ft. I’m super new to this so I’m wondering what’s my best course of action here? My plan is to clean it with some sort of deck cleaner (by hand/hose…I don’t have a pressure washer), let it dry, then apply a stain. I’m hoping to keep the deck fairly light and don’t want the stain to have lots of colour to it. Seems like being in Canada really limits my options…any suggestions on best cleaner and stain for the above example?
Clean and brighten for prep. Stain with Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Wood Stains.
Deck location: Atlanta Ga.
Full sun during morning, early afternoon- shade in the late afternoon
Pressure treated pine
No mold or mildew issues
Reason for previous stain failure- husband! I love him but he didn’t use enough- now we are reapplying
Previous coating: transparent deck stain from big box store whose name escapes me-
Question: I would like to use a solid color on both the floor and railings- wondering what to use.
Thank you for your help
Use the RAD Solid Stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-solid-color-stain-review/
Pressure clean with a deck cleaner for prep.
8 year old cedar deck stained with SW Deckscapes Semi-Transparent oil in 2013. What to do now? We are senior citizens needing the most longevity and easiest maintenance going forward. Have unopened can left with slight bowing on top and bottom..suppose that should not be used? If we have to do the whole stripping process, what is best to put on that won’t require stripping again? Multiple flower beds below the deck and concerned about caustic stripper. Local painter suggested Diamond Vogel Grain Stain, do you have info on that? Would water-based be a better choice given changing VOC restrictions? Will try to attach photos; any suggestions appreciated.
Need to add this is Nebraska, southern and western exposure. Photos are from west end. Deck is covered, but edges and west end do get sun.
Prep with RAD Stripper and these additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Brightener after. Do not use the bad stain that you have. Never heard of “Diamond Vogel”. Restain with one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Colorado
Morning sun, afternoon shade
Brand new cedar deck with mil treatment
Clear or semi-transparent stain?
Sun is intense here at altitude so we are encouraged to stain right away. Your recommendation?
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Is Behr quick dry stain any good
Nope. Bad review from us and from customers on the HD site as well: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-premium-quick-dry-oil-base-wood-finish-review/
Deck Location State: New York
Full Sun, Shade in late Afternoon
Wood Type: Pressure treated Pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Its been 7years,
Previous Coating: Cabot Semi-solid New Cedar color
I was all set to put Cabot back on my deck but after researching your site, it looks like Cabot is not as good as it was a few years back. Can I go with a different manufacturer? I also have a lot of square footage that is covered which does not need any stain any this time so I wanted to try matching the color somewhat.
Brand recommendations?
The photo below is of the uncovered portion that needs to be stained.
I live in Northern California, the deck gets morning shade and afternoon sun and mixed shade under Live Oak Trees. The deck is about 8 years old plus a new section that has been added in December of 18. About 4 years ago I cleaned the deck with RAD and brightner. I used Armstrong Clark, redwood tone. Love how it applies and was very happy. 2 years later I used RAD and brightener again and applied the same color. It only lasted about 1 year and turned very dark. I used the RAD and Brightener and applied again. I began to notice the knots were very black and within 6 months the deck was turning dark. I talked with AC Reps and they thought it might be mold but later they felt it was tannins from the Oak trees.
Do you have any suggestions? I have had this deck for 30 years (replaced 8 years ago) and have never had this type of failure before. Before AC i used super deck which I do not like because it is so hard to remove and it showed wear in traffic areas.
The photo below shows where a pot sat on the deck for 6 months and the obvious color changes.
If it is tannins for the tree, then there is really no way to prevent this. If it is mildew, you could try a water-based stain to help. That would be Defy Extreme or Restore A Deck Semi-transparent stains. Strip and brighten for prep this time if you switching.
Hi from Massachusetts; have 30 year old deck, pressure treated wood, West facing with shade in am, full sun early to mid afternoon. Last stained 2013 with Sherwin-Williams 3512 cider mill- don’t know specifics; faded lots of bare wood, definitely green stuff on deck
That is a solid stain on your wood. Clean and pressure wash. Remove all dirt and peeling stain. REcoat over the rest with a new solid color stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
We live in Pennsylvania so can have extreme cold temps in the winter. Our deck is only 3 years and we waited a year to stain it. It gets full sun in the summer (noon to sunset). Every year, despite good prepping prior to staining, we have to restain it due to peeling and chipping, and even when freshly applied, it shows a lot of dirt and footprints so it never looks finished.
We’ve used Olympic Maximum stain and sealant in one previously, but we need a better solution. We’ve never had a deck do this before.
Post a picture of the current condition.
Northampton, MA
Mostly Shade in winter, very short sun due to high trees
In summer 4-5 hours of sun, weather permitting then shade.
Pressure treated pine
Algae , green spotted growth, easily removed with a pressure washer. Owner has had the house for 3 years, first time cleaned in her possession, it may have been covered in mildew or dirt which came off easily with pressure washer.
It looks like it was painted or stained with an opaque stain once. Noticeable in an area under the stairs and on an edge that is never walked on. Under the stairs will remain hidden but if need be I can hit it with a belt sander. The rest is bare wood, whatever was there has worn off.
I’m thinking of a semitransparent stain to let the grain show.
What do you recommend?
Oil or water based?
How many coats?
Brand?
Sand off the solid stain. Clean and brighten all wood for prep. Stain with TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Wood stains. Both are oil-based.
Thank you. I have pressure washed and brush washed the deck with a mix of bleach, laundry detergent and water. That is the prep I’ve done. I can hit it with a belt sander to get the rest of the old stain. Do i need to do more than that? The photos are a day after (except sanding).
So I’m hoping to get a string of warm dry days.
You should be fine with the prep after removing the rest of the solid stain.
The 2 finishes you recommended are not available locally. Are there any brands that Home Depot, Lowes or True Value might carry of equal quality?
Nope, nothing of any quality at big box stores: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stain-quality-at-lowes-or-home-depot/
Thank you once again. Judging from the condition of the wood in the photos I’ve sent and knowing I’m going with an AC Stain, oil based, Driftwood color, should I plan on 1 coat or 2, wet on wet? If I do a wet on wet 2 coat how much longer will this take to dry? I have seen reports of it remains sticky if too much is used so I want to avoid that.
I don’t expect perfection but good enough to feel it was worth my time and yours, too.
Thanks
We would do only 1 coat for this and the AC Driftwood.
Thank you.
Ontario, Canada
Partial shade
Pine
No mold
Original pressure treated
Current stain on the deck? If so, send a picture.
Iowa
Shade in the AM, full sun in PM
Deck floor is pressure treated pine, rails are cedar
No mold/mildew issues
Deck is 2.5 years old and never been stained before
Started prep last weekend by cleaning with an Oxy Clean/soap mixture followed by a light power washing. Was prepared to start staining with Behr Semi-Transparent this weekend but after finding and reading this site am having second thoughts on my choice.
Behr has major issues with peeling and application. Try TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stains.
Do I need any further preparation/cleaning before staining?
Post a picture.
pics
Looks good to stain.
Thanks…ordered cedar colored Restore a Deck semi transparent stain a couple hours ago.
1-Deck Location State: Wisconsin
2-Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Partial sun in AM/full sun in afternoon
3-Wood Type: treated deck lumber
4-Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes
5-The reason for Previous Stain Failure- I don’t think it’s been stained before
Deck is about 5 years old- we just pressure washed it to clean up- now looking to stain.
Prep with Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener Kits and stain with Armstrong Clark or TWP 100 Series.
Do you have a review for Cabot Australian timber oil?
Yes: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cabot-australian-timber-oil-review-2016/
FLAGSTAFF AZ.
Covered Deck.. MATERIAL lumber.
Is Redwood con HEART.
With a transparent sealer.
I will sand an prep.ect.
QUESTION.?? Want a transparent in a cedar tone or Brown ?
WOULD pics..help ?
I’m liking this HELP QUESTIONARE
Try Armstrong Clark in one of their colors. Possibly Cedartone or Natural Oak.
Virginia, full sun, around above ground chlorine pool, coated deck screws rotted the pressure treated wood around each screw, replaced most worst boards and pressure washed. do not want to use a deck over or restore product, what is next best choice
Try TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Deck Stains.
Virginia full sun, pressure treated, partly around chlorine pool, coated deck screwed rotted out decking around screws, replace worst of the boards and power washed, do not want to use a deck over/ restore product , what is next best choice
I live in the center of Nebraska. I have a 23 year-old deck that I have sanded. A pergola and privacy wall were added about 6 months ago. I am preparing the deck to stain. It was washed before I sanded the floor. I was told June was the time to stain but weather has not been cooperating. The stairs have not been sanded yet. I plan on using a brightener when I have finished the sanding. My questions: Have a made an error in sanding the floor? If I don’t get a couple days of dry weather, I’m starting to panic that I won’t be able to stain until July! I have always used Sherwin-Williams Super deck Stain, Heart Redwood. Is this a good stain for my area? Should I use their semi-solid stain on the floor because of the weathered wood?
– pressure treated wood
-shady in the morning (west side of house)
-no mold issue
-I’ve stained pretty regularly – approximately every 3 to 5 years
We would suggest stripping and brighten all wood for prep compared to sanding. Stay away from the Super Deck. It turns black. Try TWP 100 Series.
Have I ruined my deck floor? Can I apply this product if the deck is damp or do I need to wait 48 hours of dry weather?
Since I’ve started the process, but rain is a possibility for the rest of the month, can I wait to use the TWP 100 in July and apply early in the mornings?
The deck flooring is really my concern at the moment. I realize the privacy wall and pergola can easily wait.
No, you have not ruined anything. You can prep with wood damp. You can wait until July to prep and stain.
Will it hurt the deck floor to wait until July to stain? I realize the privacy wall and pergola will be fine. I looked up TWP 100 Series and it requires its application to be be on dry wood. I just don’t want to cause any further damage to my existing deck flooring. Your advice is greatly appreciated!
It will be fine to wait.
can you apply a semitransparent stain if thompsons water seal was used a year before?
It will need to be stripped off first.
is thomsons water seal oil or water based?
Oil-based for water seal. Water-based for their stains.
We live in Vancouver, BC and are refinishing an eight year old cedar deck. The exposure is south, with hot sum in the afternoon in summer, and, copious rain in fall an winter, occasional snow and freezing. The deck drains well and mold/mildew is not a significant issue. I have tried transparent and semi transparent and prefer the transparent look, noting the build up of pigment in the last venture – CIL Semi Transparent. Even with a carefully prepared deck before the first application three years ago, some flaking required a light sanding the next year. I missed last year and the finish required complete removal. I want a product that is available year after year and which coat can be reapplied each spring without more that light work – cleaning and perhaps a light sanding. I don’t want heavy pigment build up liking the cedar grain. A satin finish would be ideal. Suggestions are welcome. Beat regards, Brian
Remocoe the CIL first. Stain with Armstrong Clark or TWP 200 Series.
With help, have sanded, stripped and brightened 15+ year old deck in central New Jersey. It had SW Deckscapes probably solid stain before and started peeling about 6 years after last application
gets full sun until early afternoon, then shade. It can get some mold mildew due to shade and being a bit secluded.
Not sure what type of wood I have (see pictures)
Need assistance to pick a new stain. Main interest is in minimizing future maintenance to only cleaning, brightening and reapplying when needed (if possible). Based on what I read I believe I’m looking for a semi-transparent stain and am interested in your suggestions. Also could go with a solid stain if the maintenance is as easy, however if these don’t penetrate the wood, maybe not as good a solution as the semi-transparent?
Thank you for your help.
You would want the TWP 1500 Series or Restore A Deck Wood Stains.
What stain is best for my area?
Cannot answer this unless you answer the questions above.
Hi..
Deck location: Southern NY
In shade till about 10 am, then full sun until sunset
Wood type: pressure treated pine
Mold/Mildew issues: No
New deck was built May 2018, has not been treated or stained.
Hoping for a rich dark brown look, with some wood grain . I’ve tried a couple of Behr samples. But not sold on the way they look.
Thank you!!
Behr is a horrible stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
Try Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown or Espresso. TWP 1503 Dark Oak or 1504 Black Walnut.
Make sure to prep. Clean and brighten the wood.
Thank you!!
What do you recommend to clean an brighten?
Use this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
Deck info: Vermont, south facing, full sun mid-morning to late afternoon, pressure treated, 2 years old, treated with TWP last spring and developed black mildew by early fall, I had used their multi-step process and products prior to staining, used oxy-clean and soap recipe to remove mildew prior to snowfall.
I am ready to properly retreat (strip, brighten, stain) the deck but do not want a repeat of the mildew. Very frustrated with last experience. We would like a cedar tone pigment with grain showing through. What would you suggest?
Try a water based stain as you will have better luck with mildew issues. Defy Extreme Stain or Restore A Deck Wood Stains.
Does Defy Extreme waterbase stain leave a slippery surface? I am applying it on a church deck where many seniors walk. What stain would you recommend? thank you.
No, it is a penetrating stain. Not slippery.
For the TWP 1500 can future applications go directly on top or would the deck need to be stripped again before applying?
If the deck is sanded down, do I need to strip and brighten still before application? If it helps it longevity that is fine, but if it would be unnecessary I’ll just skip that step. Thanks
Clean and reapply as needed. No need to strip. Clean and brighten after sanding.
1. Deck Location: Pennsylvania
2. Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun all day
3. Wood type: 84 Lumber Pressure Treated Pine
4. Mold or Mildew Issues: Mildew but has been pressure washed off and then boards sanded
5. The Reason for Previous Stain Failure: was a new deck, peeling in some areas especially direct sunlight (not covered by table/grill) after 1 year
6. Previous Coating: Olympic Elite/Premier Semi-Solid
I just want something that is going to stay on and protect the deck from the direct sun during the day and snow in the winter. Solid stain is totally fine.
Strip and brighten for prep. Try TWP 1500 Series for PA.
1.Deck Location State: North Carolina
2.Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun all day
3.Wood Type: Southern yellow pine (Lowes) pressure-treated
4.Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes by the house already shows some speckling on the deck boards. our prior deck had same issue
5.The reason for Previous Stain Failure: N/A – first time coating
6.Previous Coating?: None. New deck
We are looking for a stain that will add color but still show off the natural grain of the wood. The deck gets constant sun during the day, and has to hold up against the nails of a 76lb dog.
Try TWP 100 series or Armstrong Clark wood stains.
What are the best deck stains for my deck?
Deck Location State:
——Southwest Ohio
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade:
—–Full sun
Wood Type:
—–Pressure Treated Pine
Mold or Mildew Issues:
—–No
Previous Coating?
—–None – new deck 1 month old. I’ve read the new wood tips on this site and will be waiting a few more months as recommended but looking to purchase materials soon.
Questions:
—–What stain would you recommend based on this information above? Looking for a semi-transparent stain for the flooring boards.
—–We are wanting a white solid for the railings and pergola structure – what product do you recommend for this?
—–The installer left a majority of the boards facing up with the mill stamps visible. Do you recommend sanding these down now and then allowing it to weather a few more months? Or, would mineral spirits work?
Photos attached. Thank you so much for your information and expertise!
Sand ink stamps now. Restore A Deck solid stain for rails. Armstrong-Clark for floors.
State: Washington but eastern hot summers 90-100 degrees and snow cold winters
Partial sun throughout the day
Treated 2×6
Might have some mildew – deck surrounds a swimming pool so it does get wet all summer
New deck- so no old coating
Want a darker brown color
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I read to age the deck for around 12 months. After this, what stain should I use, TWP 100?
4-12 months. TWP will work.
1. TX
2.11 months old Deck and Dock in Full sun
3. Pressure treated
4. No mold or mildew issues apparent
5. no prior treatment
6. Have a new Graco Magnum x5 airless paint sprayer, will this be okay for application?
Want a light colored/clear stain that we can re-apply without re-stripping/sanding.
Clean and brighten for prep. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Semi-Transparent wood stain. You can spray but you will need to back brush.
According to my IG timeline, it turns out my Deck and Dock are 1 year old this week. We will be doing the treatment either this weekend or the next using the clean/brighten/semi-transparent wood stain as you recommended. Do I need to do anything different from your prior reply? 2 coats wet on wet?
Nothing different.
Thanks so much for such a great site. First year with this deck, but it is certainly not new. Boards have seen better days, but I’d love to get another year (or 3) out of these boards if possible. I picked up the DEFY deck cleaner and planning on starting with that this weekend. I wouldn’t hate to stain on the same day, but open to waiting till it is dry. Would prefer to not have to sand the whole thing or replace boards if possible and would like to just focus on the deck floor and top rails. In Michigan. Deck gets a few hours of sun a day… afternoon. No information on the last stain used or when it was applied. Is it possible to just clean and stain on this? Any stain suggestion and color to go with the side rails? I am guessing all of the current stain won’t be removed with the cleaning? I will have a pressure washer available as well. Thanks for any info!
You will need to remove the current stain fully if you want to use a semi-transparent stain. The other option is to use a solid color stain and you can then get by with just cleaning the wood.
Deck state: Georgia
Full sun in AM, full shade in PM
Wood type is the standard deck boards from Home Depot
No mold/mildew issues
No previous stains
I just put one coat of the Behr Waterproofing Stain & Sealer solid color on my deck two days ago and absolutely hate the color – so I stopped before adding a second coat. This is the first product that was put on as the deck was built recently and needed time to cure, then I had to wait for the rain to stop long enough for me to seal/stain it. I used Pewter, but it is much lighter and looks more like a cheap, “institutional” gray.
At this point, would I use a stripper, then sand, and use a brightener in order to change the color? And if I do that, can I use a Semi-Transparent color or would I have to use a solid color? The solid color makes the desk much hotter, so I think the semi-transparent color would be better – is that right?
Thanks!
You cannot strip a solid stain. You will have to power sand it all off if you want to go with a semi-transparent. Clean and brighten after. We like semi-transparent better for the most part: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/