Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown
Update 2017 Please read this article and post any questions you have in the comment are below. Our newly enhanced website now offers the ability to upload and post pictures of your exterior wood or deck. This will help us determine the proper prep and overall condition of your deck, leading to better performance.
This is an updated version of our most popular article What is the Best Deck Stain? We have had over 11,000 Q&A questions for the first article, helping consumers find the best wood and deck stain for their deck and specific environment.
The point of this article and DeckStainHelp.com is to offer guidance in choosing a quality deck stain that works well and will not create larger issues down the road when time to reapply. We have updated our original article by including answers to some of our most popular questions that we receive.
Here are some of our most popular answers to remember, before proceeding with any questions below:
- No deck stain will last 5+ years. A good quality stain will last 2 or maybe 3 years on a deck floor (horizontal) and typically twice as long on railings, siding, etc. (verticals).
- Penetrating stains will have less chance of peeling as they soak into the wood grain and do not film on top of the wood grain when fully cured.
- Penetrating deck stains are easier to maintain by cleaning and reapplying after 2-3 years.
- Filming Deck Stains that dry on top of the wood are harder to remove and/or reapply as they are more prone to peeling, wear, flaking, etc.
- Not all Deck Stains are penetrating. Even when they claim otherwise.
- Semi-transparent, Transparent, and Semi-Solids will show the grain of the wood to some extent. Solid stains, Deck Resurface Coatings, and Paints will not.
- Clear sealers without any pigment/color will not prevent UV graying. Lighter Pigmented stains that are Transparent, Semi-Transparent, or Semi-solid will have less UV protection than Darker Pigmented stains in the same transparency. More color/tint = better UV protection.
- Deck Stains are either Oil Based or Water Based. Filming or penetrating. Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, Solid (opaque) Stains or a Deck Resurface Coating. See here for more info on Deck Stain Types.
- Oil based stains can still be used in all States and Canada as long as they are compliant to local VOC regulations.
- When switching brands of deck stain it is always best to remove the old coating first. Do this by using a Deck Stain Stripper and/or sanding.
- Always apply a Wood Brightener after prepping with a Stain Stripper or Wood Deck Cleaner to neutralize the caustic.
- New Decks (less than a year) are treated differently than older decks (more than 1 year). New decks need to be prepped and usually cannot be stained right away. See this about Staining New Decks.
- Prep, Prep, Prep = increased longevity of a stain.
What is the Best Deck Stain For My Deck?
This is the top question by far that we have gotten on DeckStainHelp.com. Unfortunately, there is not a “best” deck stain out there that will outperform every other stain, every single time.
A better way to approach this common question is to ask, “what is the best stain for my deck and it’s environment?” A wood deck stain that performs well in humid South Carolina does not mean it will perform well in the snowy Midwest states. VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) Laws come into effect for different parts of the country as well. This may limit what is available in your state or country. For example, TWP 100 cannot be used in 17 states and Canada that have a low VOC content of 250.
To understand a deck stain and its potential longevity, we should first look at why deck stains fail:
- UV rays from the sun will damage the wood resulting in degradation of the wood cellular structure. This will break down the stain while causing the wood to oxidize (turn gray).
- Water, snow, and ice will cause damage to the wood by breaking down the exposed cell structure.
- Freeze/thaw will expand and contract the wood resulting in the stain “bond” with the wood cells to fail.
- Mold, mildew, and algae will leave the wood unsightly/dirty and can result in rotting.
- High traffic areas will wear faster.
- The previous stain used was of low quality or applied poorly.
- The Stain was not applied properly or the wood was not prepped properly prior to application. Bad prep is the number one reason stains prematurely fail!
Once we figure out the main reasons for failure, then we should research what stains would better for your deck or exterior wood.
In our example deck, we will ask 5 questions. Based on these answers (Answers are in Red) we will narrow the choices to 2-3 stain brands:
Example Deck Questions and Answers:
- Deck Location State: Michigan
- Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
- Wood Type: Cedar
- Mold or Mildew Issues: No
- The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Dried Blotchy and Peeled after first Winter.
- Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Behr Premium Semi-Transparent
Michigan is currently a high 550 VOC state, so all decking stains are currently available. If you reside in Canada, East Coast States, or California, then you may have different options. We would suggest a penetrating stain semi-transparent or semi-solid stain that does well with UV protection and fades evenly over time. Making future reapplication easier.
Based on these questions and answers we would suggest one of these stains:
- TWP 100 Series (TWP 1500 if you are in a Low VOC State)
- Armstrong Clark Deck and Wood Stain
- Defy Extreme Wood Stain
Ask in Comment Section Below. Make Sure to Include Answers to the 5 Questions.
Feel free to ask what are “the best deck stains for my deck”? Just post a comment below and make sure to include the answer to the 6 questions.
Adding a picture or two of the current condition will help!
Feel free to include any additional information that would be useful!
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2988 Comments on "The Best Deck Stains?"
Which stain would you recommend for a new cedar deck in Bellingham WA? Located in the maritime Northwest, which is wet nine months of the year; we rarely have snow and have very limited sun exposure because of 90′ Douglas fir trees surrounding the house. Mold and mildew is a significant problem and many of the old deck’s cedar boards rotted.
See this article about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
But one year later I need to apply a stain that will resist mold and mildew; which stain do you recommend for that?
You use the same stain for the first tiam and 1 year later, not two different products.
1. Michigan
2. Fill sun am, shade afternoon
3. treated pine
4. few areas where a lilac bush is close to deck
5. no significant problems hasn’t been stained in many, many years
6.Thompsons transparent deck sealer
Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color would give the best UV protection in full sun.
1. Upstate New York
2. Partial sun, but trees block parts of the deck most of the day.
3. Pressure treated pine
4. Mold and mildew were problems on the old deck that we removed and replaced
5. New wood, one year old now, so this will be the first application of stain
6. No previous coating
Clean and brighten for prep and stain with TWP 1500 or Defy Extreme.
1-Michigan
2-Fill sun
3-New treated wood (pine?)
4-None–new wood
5- Never been treated–only 1 month old
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Deck Location State: Central NC
Deck is on the North side of the house, so the portion right next to the house gets NO sun and the outer portion gets full sun all day. We do have a “privacy wall” built on the west side so it provides filtered shade late in the day.
Wood Type: Treated pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: yes
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Blotchy and worn. Seems like from day one we’ve had trouble. The last time we stained it was 3-4 years ago.
Previous Coating? Cabot’s semi-transparent. Looks horrible except where it never sees the sun under the grills and where the furniture covers are look great! We would like to go with another semi-transparent in a cedar color.
Strip and brighten for the prep to remove all of the Cabot. TWP 100 Series or Defy Extreme Stain.
Deck Location State: Seattle, Washington
Full Sun in Am
Wood Type: Cedar – only doing railing, decking is Trex
Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Wood was gray after 4 months.
Previous Coating? Defy Extreme Clear
Strip and brightener for the prep. Stain with TWP 100 Series.
Recommend Best semi transparent stain for deck
UTAH-hot dry summers, snowy winters In, but not high elevation, some shade
Redwood and Cedar-older/some very dry
no mold or mildew
Old finish gone
TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.
full sun in pennsylvania, no mold , pressure treated pine, 2 years old, never been stained. thanks in advance!
Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color when in full sun.
Deck Location: South Georgia near Florida border
Full sun most of day, some shade, not covered (get lots of rain)
Wood: Pressure treated pine
New deck – never stained or covered – will have to dry/age
so many conflicting reviews and reports….Help! What to use ?
See this about new wood decks: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Deck Location State: Connecticut
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun Much of Day, Shade in Late Afternoon
Wood Type: Pressure treated pine, six or seven newly replaced boards
Mold or Mildew Issues: Minimal
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: New to home. Renovating deck. Replaced damaged boards, sanded and prepped for stain.
Previous Coating? Unsure. Contractor suggests solid so new boards don’t show. We prefer seeing some of the wood grain if possible. Unfortunately we probably need to buy at a big box store — HD or Lowe’s (although we do have local Ace and True Value in town.
What’s our best brand choice and should we go solid,semi-solid, etc.? Thanks.
Look at Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color. If you decide to use a solid stain, try the Flood Solid Stains.
Deck Location State: Northern Indiana
full exposure to afternoon sun, shade in morning
Wood Type: pressure treated pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: new deck – just built
Previous Coating? none
See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Deck Location State: Northwest Clarksville TN Kentucky border
Covered deck but some still exposed especcially on sides
Wood Type: not sure– i do see some grey
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: new deck last september- no stain ever
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain
Prep with a Restore A Deck Cleaning Kit and stain with TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.
What is your opinion of Cloverdale paints Shark Skin Deck coating?
Sorry but never used this product.
Deck Location State: Oregon (coastal range)
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
Wood Type: Unknown
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Purchased home in September. Deck was previously painted. Paint is peeling in high traffic and areas exposed to rain.
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): bad, bad paint.
Re-paint? Strip and stain? What’s the best solution for low maintenance going forward?
You cannot strip paint. Best options is to sand it all off and stain with a penetrating semi-transparent deck stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Deck Location State: Central Minnesota
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Sun all day
Wood Type: New Cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: N/A
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Best stain for aged dry treated lumber in Iowa.
TWP or Defy Extreme Stain.
What’s the best deck stains for my deck?
Located in Portland, Oregon
Full sun in morning, shade in afternoon
Wood type is cedar
Mold or mildew: yes
Reason for previous failure: three large dogs and mildew
Previous stain: semi-transparent
Strip and brighten with Restore A Deck Stripping Kit. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Defy Extreme Stains.
Pam
State: upstate New York
Deck Location: 10′ x 12′ covered porch with open sides. Gets some sun and rain on edges (as well as snow)
Wood type: Birch
Mold or Mildew issues: Yes
Reason for Failure: time, mildew, unidentified stain from something that spilled, algae on the railings (which haven’t yet been sanded)
Previous coating: Cabot Clear decking stain
We have used a power sander as well as a lot of hand sanding to get as much bare wood as possible. The unidentified stain is still apparent as are sections of wood weathered almost white (between the more raised grain of the wood).
We like the overall color of the natural wood so are looking for transparent or semi transparent that is water and mildew resistant. What is our best option?
Thanks for your help!
Try TWP 1500 Series. Make sure to remove all the old stain first and brighten the wood after.
Before sanding we cleaned the entire porch floor with Behr’s All-in-One Wood Cleaner and also Behr’s Multi-Surface Cleaner & Mildew Stain Remover. Both faded the stain but didn’t remove it. Next we tried the sanding. Again, it helped a bit but not much. We’re reluctant to keep sanding in case the stain is really deep. (We don’t want to wind up with a hole!) We then tried to dab it with mineral spirits and then with acetone. Neither had any impact. Can you recommend any other methods of removing this stain?
Try a regular furniture paint stripper to remove the paint or stain
Picture please.
Here’s the photo. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!
This looks like a water stain and yes it is deep. Probably the only way to remove is sanding and the issue with spot sanding is that when you stain, it will be lighter in this area. There is not an easy fix for this.
I was afraid of that! Would the stain be less noticeable if we chose a colored, rather than clear finish? or would that just darken that area as well?
No. A colored stain will enhance it, not blend it.
Deck Location State: Ontario, Canada
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
Wood Type: Pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: yes
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: no stain on it right now
Previous Coating? none
Try the TWP 200 series or Armstrong Clark.
Location: Indiana
Full Sun, over water
Wood Type: treated lumber, pine
Mold or Mildew: Spots covered by railing gets some green growth
Previous Coating: Water base SW deckscapes, Toner.
Looking for best product for my area. Do not like the painted look, stick with the semi for more natural wood look. Have always used water base product, once I pressure wash deck can I use oil based and what will be the reapplying process in the future? What is the best product in my area to use? We do occasionally have flooding! Can you tell me the difference on the TWP 100, & 1500.
Thank you!
For Indiana, you can only use the TWP 1500 Series. Ths is based on your Indiana’s VOC limits. To use the oil based stain, you will need to remove all of the current SW Deckscapes. Redoing on the future requires a deck cleaner and light pressure washing.
Deck Location State: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full sun from noon until nightfall. Lots of snow in the winter. Mid-80’s is usual temp in summer. Decent amount of rain. High traffic areas where we take the dog in/out from that deck.
Wood Type: Not sure
Mold or Mildew Issues: Spots of mildew, but very few
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Peeling. Always peeling
Previous Coating? Flood semi-solid (cedar or redwood; can’t recall). Before that: Cabot Semi-solid (cedar). Before that: solid tan that was peeling by previous owner.
We have worked on the deck all weekend and are finishing up the railings. We have 2 levels (see pic) and the Flood paint on the lower level is just starting to fail, but the upper deck done previously and was chipped and required immediate replacement. We’ve power washed and stripped using Jomax – avoid it I would say. I need to buy more stripper to finish stripping the upper deck. I’m getting close though! Some of the wood is new. Some is old. Do I finish stripping and then sand? Or stop stripping and sand and then go and finish stripping?
Questions:
1. Please confirm the order of process with sanding/stripping/brightening/cleaning/painting?
2. What type of sander? Orbital? Our deck is fairly large, so I want to make sure I’m buying the right equipment. After power washing, we are getting splinters. I think I got a little too gung-ho and was too close *sigh*
3. 60 grit only is okay?
4. Can I simply paint over the lower deck with the new paint after power washing it (from a more respectable distance this time)? I’d rather not strip the entire lower deck when it’s only failing on high traffic areas. I know the color may be a bit different, but would that work?
5. The lower deck color is too dark for little feet; the sun turns it into a frying pan. Do you have a recommendation for a lighter color?
6. What would you recommend using in my area? I’m leaning toward semi-transparent just so I may have an ENTIRE year off of having to stain.
7. If I strip/sand/paint now, would that be okay for the pieces of wood that were just installed? Or do I need to hold off on all of this for a few months?
1. Strip off what you can. Sand the rest off if needed. Clean and brighten after.
2. Orbital or belt.
3. 60-80 grit
4. Sure but you will need a solid stain/paint color to cover.
5. If a solid color, you can get it in any color you like.
6. You can only use a semi-transparent where you removed all of the old stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
7. It should be fine but the new wood may need a touch up in a year.
Can I do all but the new wood and then stain the new wood in the fall? Or would the colour be noticeably fidderent?
It will be noticeably different no matter if you do know or later in the Fall. New wood stains lighter in color.
1. Location State: Seattle, Washington
2. Shade, partial sun in am, shade until late afternoon, full sun late afternoon – evening.
3. Exotic Hardwood – Batu
4. Some mildew, no mold
5. Has needed re-application every year. However, never stripped and brightened prior to staining, until this year.
6. Penofin Penetrating Oil Finish for Hardwood – Brazilian Rosewood Oil – Transparent Natural Tone
Try the Armstrong Clark in one of their hardwood colors or the Defy Hardwood Stain.
1. Location State: Delaware
2. Mostly shade (tall trees block sun)
3. Pressure treated
4. Mold: Yes
5. Previous stain applied 6+ years ago
6. Thompson’s semi-transparent
Prep well. Stain with TWP 1500 or Defy Extreme.
1. Southern California
2. Full sun most of the day
3. Pine
4. No
5. Previous coating wore away within a year or so except in no-traffic areas. And it just didn’t make the wood look good!
6. The only treatment it got soon after construction was Thompson’s Water Seal. Wore away very quickly.
Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 for Southern California.
what is the best stain for my deck and its environment?
Deck Location State: CALIFORNIA
FULL SUN UNTIL LATE AFTERNOON
Wood Type: CEDAR
Mold or Mildew Issues: POSSIBLY. THERE WERE SEVERAL DARK AREAS THAT HAVE BEEN SANDED AWAY
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: FADED BADLY, POSSIBLE MOLD, AND DID NOT ADEQUATELY PROTECT THE WOOD
Previous Coating? CABOT SEMI-TRANSPARENT – Now totally removed
Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 series.
1. SE Minnesota
2. Full Sun all day
3. Cedar
4. No Mold or Mildew Issues
5. Turned deck boards a dark brown color (boards looked 20yrs old) and rubs off when kids play on it after first Winter.
6. Pittsburgh Paints & Stains® Paramount™ Exterior Advanced Penetrating Oil Stain – Natural
Done July 2016. We have since power washed the gunk off which has basically stripped it down to original board.
Use a full curing stain so the issue does not repeat. Defy Extreme or TWP 100 Series.
1. Washington State…Seattle area, north facing,
2. Full sun on 3/4 deck. close to house shaded.
3. Cedar
4. Mold and mildew. both black and green
5. Worn out but was only good for 1 year
6. Semi- Transparent .. we have used Behr, Duck, same results.
Strip and brighten to remove all of the old coatings. Stain with TWP 100 Series.
1)South West Ohio
2)Full Sun all day, full shade in evening
3)Pressure Treated Pine
4)A little Mold on the joists (this is a second story deck) Should I stain the joists?
5)2 years old, never stained
6)N/A
This is a single family rental property. would prefer a semi transparent or semi solid that will hold up as long as possible and be easy to reapply next time without being too invasive on the tenants.
No need to stain the undersides unless you want to for appearance. Use TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark.
1) Connecticut
2) Full Sun
3) wooden Deck
4) Yes Mold big problem would like something that resists mold
5) Heavy wear
6) Used commercial stain purchased over the counter not happy
Would like to know what would be the best Stain. Oil based vs Water based
I have cleaned up the deck and removed 95% of the mold, we have replaced some boards
I would a stain which will resist Mold/Mildew but yet is penetrating and will last a least 3 years
Did you remove all of the old stain as well? You will need to if switching brands. Try Defy Extreme stain.
All of the Old stain was worn off or sanded off there was not much to remove.
Use TWP 1500 Series or Defy Extreme stain here.
1) New Jersey
2) shade in morning then sunny
3)wooden deck
4)no mold
5) general wear
6) used deck over before not happy
What would be the best brand of stain to use
Thanks
The Deck Over must be removed fully before swtiching to a different brand. Once removed, try TWP 1500 Series.
1.) Wisconsin
2.) Shade in morning, partial sun in afternoon
3.) pressure treated pine
4.) No mold/mildew
5.) general wear along top of railing/traffic areas
6.) not sure exactly; solid stain of some sort? if unsure of brand, will I have to sand bare to reapply, or can I clean/brighten and apply over existing stain?
You can clean and reapply another solid stain or if you want to go with a penetrating semi-transparent, you will need to sand ti all off.
What are the best stains for my deck? I prefer a natural grey deck.
1. Deck location: Gleneden Beach, OR, 100 feet from the ocean
2. Full sun, partial sun, shade, southern exposure
3. New cedar, dried, bare, 5 months since install
4. Mildew – yes, black spores float in air and get on everything.
5. Old cedar deck lasted 25 years, mostly used Thompson water seal, but deck close to ground. Deck was still reasonably sound, but didn’t look good. I also have planters on deck, so had some issues with that.
6. Old deck – Thompsons. This deck is still virgin.
Clean and brighten this wood for the prep and stain with Armstrong Clark or Defy Extreme Stains.
Location: Illinois, 20 mi West of Chicago
Full sun only for a couple hours in the AM, East facing deck
Wood type: Likely pressure treated, but not sure of variety
Mold or Mildew: No
Stain Failure due to age, recently bought home, not sure of when it was last stained
Previous coating: Unsure of brand, looks like a solid stain
Considering the following products, but open to other suggestions: Arborcoat, Cabots, SW SuperDeck (solid deck stains)
Ir is a solid stain on there. Recoat with Flood Solid Stains.
Hello, I am from Ohio, and put a water-based solid color stain from Ace true Value on my 18×24 deck- it is peeling now (about 30% of deck), so I am at the crossroad of stripping/sanding or applying more solid color stain. My deck is in full sun, and next to a break wall on Lake Erie- which does get lake water splashed on it roughly 2-3 times a year if we have a storm out of the northeast -the deck is 18 yrs old made of treated lumber I want a light color stain as it gets hotter if it has a dark color on it. There are no mold/mildew issues, and my posts are fine – my questions are:
1. Since there is a water based solid color stain on it, do I need to continue with the same type of stain?
2. Am I able to put a lighter color on it? It is a beige now, and I would like to go to a cream color
3. if I put a semi transparent stain on it, would it stick to the parts of the deck that have solid color stain on it already? Is it going to look blotchy?
4. There is also the option of sanding it off- would I use a floor sander?
5. What brand is the best solid color stain I should use for my situation?
6. If I sand it off, and start over, what type of stain should I get? Brand and type
thank you so much for your help!
1. Yes
2. Yes you can go with a lighter solid stain
3. You cannot apply a semi-transparent on this. 100% would have to be removed first.
4. Yes you can sand it off
5. We like Flood Solid Stains
6. 100% would have to be removed. Try one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
1. Deck Location State: Upstate NY-18 miles from VT border
2. Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Northwest orientation so full sun mid-morning thru sunset.
3. Wood Type: Pressure treated cedar
4, Mold or Mildew Issues: No
5. The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Dried Blotchy and Peeled after first Winter.
6. Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Behr Premium Semi-Transparent. Bought & used the recommended deck wash to prep, let dry and after 1st winter began to peel.
Prep first to fully remove the Behr. Strip and pressure wash off as much as you can. Sand if needed the rest. Brighten all wood after full removal. For the stain, use TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark.
I used behr deck over paint on my old deck. Despite following directions, it didn’t stick. I have striped and sanded all flaking spots. What should I use next? I live in Tennessee. Some of my deck is covered and some receives full sun. I have no mold issues.
Sand off all and try a penetrating semi-transpent stain like the TWP 100 Series or Defy Extreme Stain.
1. Central Massachusetts location so significant freeze/thaw, ice/snow
2. East-facing attached deck so 1/2 day of full sun
3. Cedar
4. Some algae growth under rail with previous decking (PT southern pine)
5. New cedar decking to be installed this summer
6. Previous owner finished existing PT pine with opaque stain which has extensively cracked and peeled. I don’t know when the last finish was applied. Wood is rotted through in several locations so replacing decking rather than trying to repair and refinish.
Ideally would like a finish with at least 2 year lifetime and minimal fading
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
1. Central Illinois
2. Full sun from sun up to sun down
3. Pre-treated deck, cedar railing and post.
4. No
5. New deck, never stained, been in elements for 1 year.
6. N/A
Prep by stripping and brightening the wood. Stain with Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color.
I actually forgot to tell you that yesterday I power washed the deck with just water (no chemicals). I did get a little careless in some places and it “fuzzed up” a little bit. It cleaned up nicely but I believe a treatment of restore- a- deck is still needed. You told me to do the stripper and brightener. With the new information do you still suggest the stripper and brightener or should I use the cleaner and brightener?
Post a picture, please.
Here’s a couple pics. Thanks for the help.
Cleaner and Brightener.
I really appreciate your timely replies. 1 last ?. I have replaced 4 boards that curled/warped and pulled up my camo fasteners on the ends. Do I need to skip these when I stain next week and give them the proper 2-4 months in the elements before staining them? Thanks in advance.
Just stain them but next year you will need to do another coat on the new boards.
1. Located on southern Oregon coast, on the beach w/ harsh winter rain
2. Full Sun for nearly 100%of the day. No freezing in winter
3. 2000 sf of Cedar Decking, 18 years old with a checking/cracking
4. No mold or mildew.
5. Never treated until july 2015 with one coat Flood CWF-UV cedar tone which held good one year and weathered in 2016 and now all worn off now in 2017
One small area that gets less sun & wind still has 40% coating.
Looking for a more durable treatment against the harsh winters wind&rains and strong summer sun.
Prep well and try the Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color.
Hi, looking for something possibly semi-transparent that will last at least 2 years in Cold Canadian climate, meets Canada’s VOC requirements, and doesn’t need to be fully sanded off to re-apply. Guessing one of your oil based but can’t decide between maybe the Armstrong Clark or TWP 200. Anything similar is very difficult to get here. I did fully sand off existing with a few patches left. Guessing should use your stripper for remaining, and cleaner/restore product too (which one?).
1. Deck Location State: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
2. Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade Later in day, Very Cold winters/Snow
3. Wood Type: possibly fir? pretty hard – I didn’t build it – maybe 10-15 years old but still decent shape
4. Mold or Mildew Issues: No
5. The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Peeled some after first Winter, alot after 2nd. Guessing didn’t absorb well even though fully sanded it before…. but didn’t apply cleaner product (just hosed it off).
6. Previous Coating? Cloverdale SharkSkin Acrylic solid color water based
thanks much, Doug.
All the solid stain will need to be removed. Sand off the rest of the patches and then clean and brighten for the last prep. Either brand should work well for you.
1. S.E. Iowa
2. Full sun in A.M.
3. Cedar
4. No mold or mildew
5. Stain peeled
6. Previous coat was Pittsburgh Ultra Semi-Transparent Acrylic Formula
I am looking for a stain that will last longer than a year. We only have light traffic on the deck which is about 18 years old, but cedar is in very good condition. I have pressure washed it and there are blotches. Looking for your recommendation on a deck stain.
Make sure the prep is correct by removing all of the old coatings. Stain with the TWP 100 Series or Defy Extreme Stains.
1) Northern Minnesota
2) Partial Shade Morning, Full Sun Afternoon, Full Shade Evening
3) Treated Pine
4) Yes, both
5) Peeled off after first winter, hasn’t been stained in 8 years
6) Solid stain, peeled off like paint, most likely due to poor preparation
Prep well and try the Flood Solid Stains or the Deck Revive by Gulf synthetics.
I have stripped and sanded all wood back to new, would I still want to use these stains, or would a TWP 100 after wood brightener work?
If all is removed then try a semi-transparent like the TWP 100 or 1500 Series.
1) S.W. British Columbia, rainy winters
2) Cedar deck and railings
3) Southern exposure, summer sun a lot of the day
4) New Deck, built 7 months, not yet stained or treated
5) Some green mold and mildew
Looking for semi-transparent
TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark.
1) Central Texas
2) Full sun morning and most afternoon, partial sun/shade late afternoon
3) Pine
4) No. New Deck.
5) N/A. New Deck.
6) N/A. New Deck.
Looking for a semi-transparent or semi-solid.
See this article: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
1)S.E. British Columbia, 3,500 feet. Hot dry summers, cold snowy winters.
2)Full southern/western sun all day.
3)Cedar deck boards, fir & larch railings, etc.
4)No mold.
5)About 6 years old with some 1 year old stairs/railings added last summer.
6)We have stripped off the old failed transparent stain. Brand unknown.
7)Want to try and even out the colors on the different woods so thinking a semi-solid in a burnt umber-tumeric color to also match our natural wood colors on clear coated beams,etc.
We were looking at Sikkens, but they don’t have semi-solid or the right color in solids.
Try TWP 200 Series for Canada.
1. Location: Central Ohio
2. 80-90% shade (while the leaves are on the surrounding trees, for approx. 6 months)
3. Pressure treated pine
4. Mold and Mildew forms on the deck
5. Several years ago I replaced all of the deck boards, and have not stained it yet. I have just finished pressure washing the entire surface.
6. I am ready to coat, and look forward to your recommendations!
Defy Extreme or the TWP 1500 Series.
1- North Carolina
2.- Three decks. Main and secondary – Shade in AM, full sun mid day, Shade in late afternoon. Third – Boat dock in full sun all day.
3. – Aged pressure treated pine
4.- Some mold and mildew
5.- Previous semi-solid stain peeling and gone in a lot of places.
6.- Previous coating brand unknown. Was applied years ago by previous owner. New owners want the work done.
Remove the current coating by stripping and or sanding. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Defy extreme.
Hi,
I am in Colorado, at 6,300 feet above sea level.
We get quite a lot of snow in the winter, forceful hail in spring and fall, and during the summer it can be very dry with temperatures in the 90s during the day.
My deck is old so I plan to sand it first.
What oil-based stain would be best for my deck?
Hoping to hear from you,
Kathy Carter-Dulin
Armstrong Clark or TWP stains for this.
Where do I purchase Defy Extreme and Armstrong Clark. I live in Carollton, VA. Deck is in full sun 50 percent of the day. Wood type: pressure treated wood. No mold or mildew. Previous coating – Thompson
Check with the manufacturers for help on this.
Deck Location State: Southern Ontario, Canada
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: First 6 feet from house full shade, morning one side part sun evening other side part sun deck is north facing big maple tree above it.
Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: A little against house
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: No stain deck is 10 months old
Armstrong Clark or TWP 200 Series. Clean and brighten the wood for the prep.