Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown
Update 2018 Please read this article and post any questions you have in the comment are below. Our newly enhanced website now offers the ability to upload and post pictures of your exterior wood or deck. This will help us determine the proper prep and overall condition of your deck, leading to better performance.
This is an updated version of our most popular article What is the Best Deck Stain? We have had over 15,000 Q&A questions for the first article, helping consumers find the best wood and deck stain for their deck and specific environment.
The point of this article and DeckStainHelp.com is to offer guidance in choosing a quality deck stain that works well and will not create larger issues down the road when time to reapply. We have updated our original article by including answers to some of the most popular questions that we receive.
Here are some of our most popular answers to remember, before proceeding with any questions below:
- No deck stain will last 5+ years. A good quality stain will last 2 or maybe 3 years on a deck floor (horizontal) and typically twice as long on railings, siding, etc. (verticals).
- Penetrating stains will have less chance of peeling as they soak into the wood grain and do not film on top of the wood grain when fully cured.
- Penetrating deck stains are easier to maintain by cleaning and reapplying after 2-3 years.
- Filming Deck Stains that dry on top of the wood are harder to remove and/or reapply as they are more prone to peeling, wear, flaking, etc.
- Not all Deck Stains are penetrating. Even when they claim otherwise.
- Semi-transparent, Transparent, and Semi-Solids will show the grain of the wood to some extent. Solid stains, Deck Resurface Coatings, and Paints will not.
- Clear sealers without any pigment/color will not prevent UV graying. Lighter Pigmented stains that are Transparent, Semi-Transparent, or Semi-solid will have less UV protection than Darker Pigmented stains in the same transparency. More color/tint = better UV protection.
- Deck Stains are either Oil Based or Water Based. Filming or penetrating. Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, Solid (opaque) Stains or a Deck Resurface Coating. See here for more info on Deck Stain Types.
- Oil-based stains can still be used in all States and Canada as long as they are compliant to local VOC regulations.
- When switching brands of deck stain it is always best to remove the old coating first. Do this by using a Deck Stain Stripper and/or sanding.
- Always apply a Wood Brightener after prepping with a Stain Stripper or Wood Deck Cleaner to neutralize the caustic.
- New Decks (less than a year) are treated differently than older decks (more than 1 year). New decks need to be prepped and usually cannot be stained right away. See this about Staining New Decks.
- Prep, Prep, Prep = increased longevity of a stain.
What is the Best Deck Stain For My Deck?
This is the top question by far that we have gotten on DeckStainHelp.com. Unfortunately, there is not a “best” deck stain out there that will outperform every other stain, every single time.
A better way to approach this common question is to ask, “what is the best stain for my deck and it’s environment?” A wood deck stain that performs well in humid South Carolina does not mean it will perform well in the snowy Midwest states. VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) Laws come into effect for different parts of the country as well. This may limit what is available in your state or country. For example, TWP 100 cannot be used in 17 states and Canada that have a low VOC content of 250.
To understand a deck stain and its potential longevity, we should first look at why deck stains fail:
- UV rays from the sun will damage the wood resulting in degradation of the wood cellular structure. This will break down the stain while causing the wood to oxidize (turn gray).
- Water, snow, and ice will cause damage to the wood by breaking down the exposed cell structure.
- Freeze/thaw will expand and contract the wood resulting in the stain “bond” with the wood cells to fail.
- Mold, mildew, and algae will leave the wood unsightly/dirty and can result in rotting.
- High traffic areas will wear faster.
- The previous stain used was of low quality or applied poorly.
- The Stain was not applied properly or the wood was not prepped properly prior to application. Bad prep is the number one reason stains prematurely fail!
Once we figure out the main reasons for failure, then we should research what stains would better for your deck or exterior wood.
In our example deck, we will ask 5 questions. Based on these answers (Answers are in Red) we will narrow the choices to 2-3 stain brands:
Example Deck Questions and Answers:
- Deck Location State: Michigan
- Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
- Wood Type: Cedar
- Mold or Mildew Issues: No
- The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Dried Blotchy and Peeled after first Winter.
- Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Behr Premium Semi-Transparent
Michigan is currently a high 550 VOC state, so all decking stains are currently available. If you reside in Canada, East Coast States, or California, then you may have different options. We would suggest a penetrating stain semi-transparent or semi-solid stain that does well with UV protection and fades evenly over time. Making future reapplication easier.
Based on these questions and answers we would suggest one of these stains:
- TWP 100 Series (TWP 1500 if you are in a Low VOC State)
- Armstrong Clark Deck and Wood Stain
- Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain
- Defy Extreme Wood Stain
Ask in Comment Section Below. Make Sure to Include Answers to the 5 Questions.
Feel free to ask what are “the best deck stains for my deck”? Just post a comment below and make sure to include the answer to the 6 questions.
Adding a picture or two of the current condition will help!
Feel free to include any additional information that would be useful!
Hello. Thank you this opportunity and this website. I am so glad to have finally stumbled upon it. I am attaching one picture of the porch I need to re-coat. I need to prep and re-coat the surfaces, and I am writing for your opinion as to what would be the best product to use for each task. The sources of my confusion are:
I want to minimize the time and effort required, while still doing a top job. MUST CLEAN & PRIME?
I’d like to avoid sanding, and any other real messy procedures.
Some pieces of previously coated wood have been replaced with new boards, I don’t know what kind they are (pressure treated, or not).
I also don’t know what original coating was used, it appears like thick paint, partly worn off and partly solid (not flaking). I don’t want to scrape it all off, sand it, or dissolve it with strong chemicals.
My research shows that I would like to have the following attributes in a new coating:
Grayish or tanish color
Anti-skid character
Long lasting (5 yrs?) IMPOSSIBLE?
Fills in small cracks, locks down splinters
Made to withstand foot traffic
Resistant to: water, UV rays, mold & mildew (Tampa area)
Reflects sunlight to keep surface cooler.
Also, I would like to know if the undersides/backsides of boards should also be coated?
Thanks very much in advance for your advice,
Hal in Tampa, FL
Use the Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive for this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/gulf-synthetics-deck-revive-review-2015/
Pressure wash for prep. Use their Permabond for the primer.
What is the best deck stain for a redwood deck in San Jose, CA. Deck is more than 15 years old. Deck has been power washed and stained several times and has always looked great. No mildew, mold, peeling etc. I used Super Deck Transparent stain and sealer, color 1903 Redwood. OSH went out of business and three years ago I bought a gallon
online and had it shipped. This year no luck. I would prefer oil based stain that is acceptable in California.
Thanks so much,
Carol Evans
TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark. You will need to strip and brighten for the prep.
Central North Carolina
Screened in porch
Afternoon sun
Pressure treated wood
No mold
Previously coated with a whitewash
Want to change color
Hi my painter pressure washed off the white wash ( don’t know if this was correct or not).
I want it to look rich and somewhat glossy. Is this possible.? Should I use deck brighter on it first? His power washer caused some areas to need sanding. I’m sending a pic of it wet after pressure washing and one of it dry. I would like for it to look rich like when it’s wet.
What deck stain or oil should I use?
Thanks for your help!
Debra Harris
You cannot make it glossy (it will peel) but you can enhance the look like your wet look pictures. Try Restore A Deck Wood Stain in Light Walnut or Armstrong Clark in Natural Oak.
No need to brighten at this point.
Thanks so much for the quick response!
Location: North East Florida (Amelia Island)
East exposure with full sun in the morning/early afternoon (very hot in summer) and shaded starting around 2 pm.
Wood is pressure treated pine
No mold or mildew issues
No previous stain – new/replaced decking in March of 2018
This is a follow-up question from a couple of months ago. At that time, you advised waiting until the weather cooled before applying a stain and suggested the Restore-a-Deck Cleaner/Brightner and Defy Deck stain. I ordered the RAD Cleaner/Brightener, and am now re-reading the deck stain reviews along with the Staining a new Deck article again before ordering a stain.
My question now is – your overall preference seems to be the TWP 100, except that you do not recommend it for new, never before stained decks. Does that recommendation hold for a deck that has now aged 7 months or would TWP 100 be ok? If I were to use a water based stain like Defy or RAD, would applying TWP 100 in one to 2 years require any special removal beyond cleaning and brightening or would you recommend sticking with whatever brand I choose now?
My deck is roughly 60×16 feet with a total of 14 stairs and an additional 5×9 landing – see attached pictures. RAD said I would need 8-10 gallons of the stain. If I were to use TWP100 or Defy, would I need the same amount?
I would prefer a clear stain, but I am sure you would recommend some pigment. We want the color to match as closely to the natural pine color as possible (before we replaced the deck boards, we had applied a solid, dark brown stain, but we did not like the color). Given that preference, what stain would you recommend?
Thanks again for your help. This site is extraordinarily helfpful.
TWP will be fine for wood aged 7 months. Just one coat. If you switch brand down the road, you will need to strip and brighten for the prep.
About the same of amount of stain for the different brands of stain will be needed.
Clear = no UV protection. Lighter tints will fade faster than darker tinted stains.
Any of the three brands will work. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Photos attached of deck constructed with KDAT Brown. Deck completed 4 months ago. Love the brown color, so would like to use a clear product.
Deck location state: Eastern Kansas, right at MO state line
Sunlight: Mostly full shade except one corner that gets the morning light
Mold/mildew: None to date
Stain: None, 4 month old deck
Concerns/questions
What prep and stain to use? Best application method for deck and privacy wall? Timing: Still have a window on decent temps, but leaves are falling like crazy! Concerned with leaves interfering with stain application.
Thank you! Love your site!
A clear will not provide UV protection. You will need a stain. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Try Armstrong Clark in Natural tone. It is a lightly tinted stain.
Thanks. Will probably need to order online as I cannot find a local retail outlet. As I sit and watch the ever increasing rate of the leaves falling I am more concerned about actually staining now. There is no way I could keep the leaves off until the stain is dry. Would it be ok if I waited until spring?
Yes.
Deck Location State: Maryland
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Partial Shade in Afternoon
Wood Type: Pine or Oak
Mold or Mildew Issues: Minor
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: None, the deck is over a year old and unstained
Previous Coating? None
Hello,
For the prep, clean and brighten the wood. Stain with the TWP 1500 Series or the Armstrong Clark.
One more thing, I don’t want the orange color Thanks
I live on the Central Coast of California, I just put in a new redwood deck – what stain would you recommend for me? I would like a little sheen to the color
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
You should not have a sheen to a deck stain. That means it will be prone to peeling. You want a penetrating stain.
Deck Location State: Oregon (Portland)
Shade in morning, full sun in the afternoon
Wood Type: Cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: None, deck is unstained
Previous Coating: None
We built this deck last year, but have only this month put up the railings and stairs. Two questions….Can we stain the whole thing now? (after cleaning/brightening the deck floor). In other words, must we wait for the newer components to “season” for a period of time before staining? Secondly, we want a dark, rustic type stain with no red or orange overtones. I was looking at the RAD stains, but I didn’t see anything that would fir the bill……thoughts?..
Thank you!
Yes, you have to let the new wood season. Do it in the Spring: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
You could try the Dark Walnut color in RAD stains.
Thank you. I really like the ‘Black Walnut’ color that the TWP 1500 Series has. Could I use this and have an equally good result, or is the RAD stain a flat out superior
choice for my situation?
Thank you again for your expertise!
TWP is a great stain and would work just as well.
Great news! Thank you again for your reply, and for all of the information on this website!
I have IPE decks that have to be refinished due to blackening/dirt. I live in SC with a ton of humidity. All decks are covered, deep and all get some degree of sun and shade. Last product used was Messmers UV Plus for Hardwoods. After stripping and brightening with Woodrich and applying the Messmers about 2 years ago, the deck was beautiful. 10 months in we cleaned the deck with Flood Deck Cleaner and applied Messmers again, but the deck seemed to be getting blacker each time. I have a contractor that wants to drum sand and use SuperDeck 2500 Exotic Hardwood Stain in natural. Do you have any experience with this particular SuperDeck product? He said that they have had nothing but good results with this product.
No need to sand. Strip and brighten for the prep. It will restore the color. We would not suggest Super Deck Stains. It turns black as well. Try the Defy Hardwood stain. It will not darken or turn black.
Super Deck ratings: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/superdeck-stain-review/
Read the consumers comments below the article.
Does this mean that the decks will have to be stripped and brightened every year? I am not sure why the deck cleaner is not removing the mildew.
You have to strip when switching brands. Defy can be cleaned and reapplied as needed down the road.
I live in California in the High Sierra. My redwood deck gets full sun. There are no mold or mildew problems. It is 3 years old. The original deck stain is unknown. It dried blotchy because it was put on too thick. What would be the best stain be for my deck.
Thank you,
Sherry Lee
You will need to remove the current stain first. Strip and sand. Brighten the wood after. Stain with Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color.
I have a deck that recieves an average amount of sun, shady spots, south suburbs of Chicago (cold/snow/ice winters…hot humid summers/ rainy spring/fall) . treated wood, put up on July and we are thinking we should stain before it gets too cold to protect the wood. what are your recommendations.
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
You could do now or Spring. It will not matter.
Hi,
I have been using IPE Oil for my IPE deck since it was installed. I read most of the reviews and it seems Armstrong Clark might be a slightly better product?? I would like to keep the natural color of the wood and hopefully it will last a year before reapplying. Feedback on which oil is best is appreciated. I live in Florida.
Thank you!!
A.
What cleaner should I be using prior to oiling? Can I use water w/ bleach or just pressure wash the deck????
Use a stripper to remove. Brighten after. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. Stain with the AC in their Amber Hardwood color.
Deck Location State: Tennessee
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full sun most of the day, shade in evening
Wood Type: Pressure treated pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: Maybe
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: None, new construction. 1 year old
Clean and brighten the wood for the prep. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Wood Stains.
Deck Location State: New Jersey
Part Sun in the Morning, Full Sun in Morning until mid-afternoon
Wood Type: Redwood
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Age and lack of new applications
Previous Coating? BeHr Solid Color Wood Stain (SC-131) PFWTER Base 213 (unknown how long ago it was applied – at least 5 years)
Thank you!
You will need a solid stain again unless you want to sand the deck. Try the Flood Solid Stains.
Deck Location State: California
Part Sun in the Morning, Full Sun in Afternoon
Wood Type: Redwood
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Small patches with heavy traffic have lost stain / look whitish .
Previous Coating? TWP (Redwood stain): 4 years ago, two coats on a new deck
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. Stain with Armstrong Clark Wood Stains or the TWP 1500.
Deck Location State: Virginia
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
Wood Type: pressure treated yellow pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: Maybe
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: None, brand new porch
Previous Coating? unfinished, new build (1 year old)
Prep with a deck cleaner and a wood brightener. Stain with Restore A Deck Wood stains or Armstrong Clark Wood Stains.
Hi, I am looking for a stain for a redwood picket fence. The boards are 5 and 1/2 inch wide. We are located in the Central Valley in California where it gets very hot in the summer. What is the best stain to use that will last, keep the wood’s natural color and be easy to re-apply in a few years (without stripping)?
Thank you for your advice and articles!
Try the Armstrong Clark Wood Stains or TWP 1500 Series.
Purchased a house in Summer 2017 with a large second story deck. Spring of 2018 the deck began to chip and peel. The previous owners left the gallons of Rust-oleum Deck Restore. After some research I discovered your website. I am finally close to being done sanding everything off. Any recommendations? I am looking for the best product with the least likelihood I will have to resand the entire deck again.
Deck Location State: Central New Jersey
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun
Wood Type: Unkown
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Chipped and Peeled
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Rust-oleum Deck Restore
Thanks in advance! Your website has been extremely helpful!
Once you fully remove the current products, use a penetrating stain for ease of use and recoats down the road: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/gulf-synthetics-deck-revive-review-2015/
Additional information—
Possible failure: Sealed within a week of building fence. Choice of Thompson’s sealer.
Fence areas see all sun, partial and shade.
The worst mold or blackened areas seem to be in the all sun facing areas though all areas of the fence have been negatively effected.
Thank you!
Strip and brighten the wood for prep. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. Stain with TWP or Restore A Deck Wood Stains.
Thank you for the quick feedback!
A carpenter came out and clarified we mostly have sun & some water damage.
So does the order go as follows?:
RAD stripper
Power wash
RAD brightener
Power sand 60/80 grit
Stain with TWP 1500 or RAD
Do you prefer oil or water with cedar?
No need to sand a fence after the stripper/brightener. Both oil and water-based work well as long as you have a high-quality brand.
Awesome
Deck is 5 months old, pressure treated lumber. Located in Virginia facing south so it receives sun all day. Any recommendations on a semi-transparent stain as wifey wants the grain to show. Nothing too dark.
See this for tips on new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Hello, great website and articles! We’re in Atlanta, Ga. and deck is on back of house, receives morning and mid-day sun, shady in afternoon. Some mildew spots in shady areas. TONS of pine trees on property. The deck is very old (at least 20 years) but still feels solid. Replacing the steps and some broken sections but want to refinish the rest. Wood has lots of surface cracks. It was probably stained in the past, but appears to be worn to bare wood at this point. We’ve pressure washed it and it is coming back to life! Trying to determine best products to use and best deck color – modern farmhouse style, house is creamy white cape cod style, attaching pics of back and front view of house. We want to find a natural cedar color that’s not too red, but brown enough to not show muddy shoe prints from farm life. Any advice is greatly appreciated…spent too much time and Home Depot and Lowe’s and now totally confused. Thanks!!
Use Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener Kits for prep. Stain with Restore A Deck Wood Stain in Cedar. It is one of our favorite cedar colors. Not too orange or red.
I have about 2000 square feet of Ipe decking, previously untreated, 10 years old just outside of Augusta, GA (30809). Local conditions include considerable sun, considerable rain (60-80 inches per year), many overhanging trees (largely pine). Deck has been carefully power washed (but not otherwise cleaned or brightened). I would like to maintain the natural color of the untreated Ipe (reddish) BUT understand that UV protection from your recommended products favors darker pigments. You seem to consistently recommend AC semitransparent (Amber or Mahogany) or TWP and they certainly sound like the right choices. Is either enough better in my situation to choose it or is it a tossup? Do I need to use a brightener (? 1 to 10 chlorox) after the extensive power washing (about 50 hours–lots of mold)?
You need a cleaner and a brightener for the prep. Use the Restore A Deck Kits. As for the stain, you want a Hardwood stain. Try Armstrong Clark in Amber or Defy Hardwood stain in Natural Pine. See this for more info on IPE: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/hardwood-deck-stain-tips-for-ipe/
Hello, I am wondering what you would suggest on pine shiplap siding. It is untreated and newly installed but may not be able to be stained before this winter. It receives full sun through mid afternoon and partial shade thereafter on south side and full shade in the am with filtered sun in afternoon on north side. No mold problems to speak of but north side definitely has more moisture due to lack of full sun at any point. Located in Vermont at high elevation with long cold winters and lots of wind. Thank you.
TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark. Clean and brighten the wood for the prep.
Hello
My deck was stained immediately after construction in 2010. Obviously incorrect. The stain peeled and it has been re-stained and peeled three times since. Each application results in peeling within one year.
Deck Location State: Delaware- 2 miles to the beach and 5oo yards to coastal wetlands
partial shade in am, full sun in afternoon
Wood Type: Cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: peeled after first winter
Previous Coating? Sherwin williams???? I don’t know the specifics
Thank you
Sand off all the coatings fully. After full removal, clean and brighten the wood for final prep. Stain with a penetrating stain like TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark.
What do you recommend for this deck? (Preparation and Stain):
Location: Walnut Creek, California 949597. Sunny location 10 miles east of SF Bay, 25 miles east of Pacific Ocean
Full Sun in morning, Shade in late afternoon, evening (depending on season)
Temperatures 30F – 70F Winter, 55F – 105F Summer
No Mold or Mildew issues – dry climate but can be shady and moist during winter months
Material and Age of Deck: Redwood and 28 years
Current material unknown and about 4 years old – Coating has peeled and did not penetrate well. Surfaces have ridges and grooves, probably from aggressive power washing.
TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark.
Thanks for your prompt reply! My choices exactly…Here is my contractor’s recommendation and preparation:
We use Behr premium 500 line water base. Deck can be cleaned and sealed again in a year or two from now, depending on how much sun exposure and other factors.
•There is no need to sand deck to bare wood in a year or two if we use Behr premium. I have been using it for the last 5 years.
•We can use oil base of your choice, however keep in mind that most of them require removing or striping deck every time you need to refinish your deck. Beside, we need to do the project over two different days.
•There is more labor involved with most oil base (application and cleaning of tools).
• I don’t think you need more than 5 gallons.
We will not use chemical stripper on deck flat surface and top of rails. We will sand flat horizontal surfaces to bare wood.
The rest of rails will be light pressure washed only.
My comments and questions again: I pay for the oil stain if I want it. How good is the Behr premium 500 line water base? What do you think of his preparation plans and point that with his product there would be less preparation (no stripping, etc.). Do you think the Armstrong-Clark or TWP would need more preparation in the future as he suggests?
Thanks again, Chris.
Behr is junk: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
Read the consumer reviews at the bottom. Your contractor is a little confused as well. Oil-based penetrating stains like the TWP and AC soak in much better than the water-based Behr. It is much easier to clean and reapply an oil-based stain because of this. It is also much easier to apply an oil-based stain compared to a water-based. Doesn’t dry so fast and soaks in better for a more uniform appearance.
Deck Location State: San Antonio TX
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in mid afternoon to early evening
Wood Type: Western Cedar installed in 2015.
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Intense sun and two heavy dogs’ claws scratch the surface
Previous Coating? Olympic Maximum stain & sealant. Says six year protection but we’ve had to stain each of the last two years since deck installation.
What do you think of the Cabot Australian Timber Oil? Guy at Lowe’s recommended it.
You will need to remove the Olympic first. Strip, sand if needed, and then brighten the wood. Cabot ATO used to be good many years ago but they changed the formula. Better brands out there but you will not find them at HD or Lowes. Try the TWP 100 Series.
Best deck stain?
Eastern Maryland
Mostly shade all day
Biggest problem is mold, mildew, and algae – wet environment
Older deck with semi-warn surface
I think it’s made of pine
Thanks for your recommendations
Defy Extreme Stain or Restore A Deck Wood Stain.
Thanks!
If I power wash my deck now, is it ok to leave it like that over the winter and stain it in the spring? I live in west central WI
Yes but you will need to prep again in the Spring.
So what are the “best deck stains” for my deck?
1. SW Missouri
2. Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
3. Cedar
4. No mold or mildew issues.
5. New install.
Thanks!
PS – We have been told that cedar should be stained immediately. Apparently untrue?
See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
building new house in WV GETS COLD -20 DEGREES and rains a lot house will be new rough spruce need a semi transpart stain clear or slight tint that will not mildew
Defy Extreme or Restore A Deck Wood Stains.
Deck Location State: Connecticut
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full sun in afternoon, will have snow on it in winter.
Wood Type: pressure treated, probably pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Peeled after lack of maintenance. We’ve powerwashed & sanded to get it prepped. Deck is old, though ~ 20 years. We’re trying to get 3-5 years out of it. Looking for solid stain, couldn’t get previous coating out of cracks. Looking to go with a dark color.
Previous Coating? semi-solid or solid stain.
Try Flood Pro Series Solid Stains.
Thank you!
Deck Location State: Colorado
Full Sun
Wood Type: Cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: No stain on it currently…deck was installed last week.
Previous Coating? None
Thank you!
See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Anchorage, Alaska
New porch (2 months old)
Made from pressure treated lumber
House has grey trim, so I was hoping to go with solid or semi-solid in grey
Mostly shaded but some sun in the afternoon
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
For a solid stain, try the Flood Pro Series.
California
Full sun
Redwood
No mold
Semi transparent
Not previously stained properly- stained immediately after deck was put in and it streaked
Unsure of brand- water based
You will need to strip and sand to remove down to the bare wood and start over. Brighten after. Once prepped, try TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark.
Deck Location State: Atlanta, GA
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Partial Afternoon Sun (1 – 2 hrs) (Covered)
Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes
Reason for Previous Stain Failure: New Deck – 2 yrs old
Previous Stain Brand and Type of stain: I want to used a semi transparent to match deck addition made with Trex composite decking
Peep with a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. Stain with Restore A Deck Wood Stain or TWP 100 Series.
Deck Location State: Connecticut
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: southern exposure – some sun in AM with full sun all afternoon
Wood Type: pressure treated pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: yes
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: age/lack of care
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain: Unknown
Post a picture please of the current condition as this will determine the proper way to prep and possibly the stain type needed.
Location Seattle WA
Covered partial Sun
Cedar
Mold and Mildew
Just appears dirty only 18 months after construction.
Sherman Williams Super deck Transparent
Best deck stain?
Strip and brighten the wood with Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Wood Stains.
Location: Upstate New York (southern region)
Full sun, full day
Pressure-treated pine
Wet and snowy weather at times (snow will sit on deck for sure)
One year old untreated
Ready to stain.
What is Cabot Australian timber oil, which is soap-and-water clean-up?
And what is Cabot Gold, which cleans up with mineral spirits, yet doesn’t mention in any literature what it is made of?
Then, what is Cabot semi-transparent stain which says it’s “deep penetrating oil” yet is soap-and-water clean-up?
These are what is available to us, along with Behr Premium oil base wood finish (transparent, yet available in light to dark colors), mineral spirit clean-up. We would like to use a mid-range color, not too light, not too dark, which will also compliment our beige home and provide some UV protection yet not be too hot as full sun all day.
We prefer to use an oil stain but these are confusing.
Can you please advise what is the best choice? Many thanks!
Do not use any of the brands you mentioned. Look for TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark.
Soap and water cleanup means it is not oil-based.
Deck Location State: Central Illinois
Full Sun
Wood Type: Pressure Treated
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Dried Blotchy and Peeled after first Winter.
Previous Coating? Yes, not sure. Used Defy to strip and then used their brightener.
Try Restore A Deck Wood Stains or Armstrong Clark.
Deck Location State: Northern Colorado
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: North facing, so some summer sun mid-day, full west sun in summer afternoon
Wood Type: Redwood, installed August 2015
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Dull, grayed after 2 years — did not really look good in the Spring. Stained in Sept 2015 and again in Sept 2016.
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Penofin Ultra Premium Transparent Redwood
I have sanded horizontal surfaces with 60 grit and ready to apply new stain. Wondering if there is a better recommendation to avoid having to re-stain annually and if a semi-transparent would last longer.
Clean and brighten the wood for final prep after the sanding. Stain with TWP 100 Series.
Location: Apex, North Carolina
Full Sun
Wood type: 2 year old kiln dried pine
Mold and mildew: Yes
Reason for failure: Not sure. Deck was installed in late October 2016. Was nervous to stain it because it was cool and moist at night. Stained in Spring 2017 (6 mo after install) By late July the deck had discolored and had mildew under the stain. Had the deck stripped, cleaned and conditioned Spring 2018. A Behr semi solid stain was put on (2 coats). Mildew and mold are showing up again under the stain. The deck seemed to stay tacky after the second round and never felt fully cured. We are super frustrated and don’t what to do.
Thank you or any help or suggestions!
Michelle
Deck Location State: Maryland
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Shade in the morning, Partial sun in the afternoon
Wood Type: 1 year old Pressure Treated wood decking installed with old pickets
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Not sure
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Replaced deck last year
Prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener. Stain with TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark.
Thank you!!
Do you have any articles on oil-based vs water-based stains? Pros and cons of each?
See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/water-based-vs-oil-based-deck-stains-2017/
Do you have recommendations for which cleaner to use if we are going with TWP 1500 for the stain? Since I have new wood, the Gemini Restore a Deck Kit for cleaning and brightening is recommended omg TWP’s site. Any thoughts on that product or another?
Thanks!
Use their Gemini Kit.
I’m refinishing the siding on my house. All the wood is vertical, not horizontal. The home was built in 2012 and I believe the wood is pine – mostly in good shape. I am taking off two coats of previous stains – the first was the original semi-transparent white wash – probably a cape cod grey by the builder. In 2016 or so the HOA applied a clear coat for maintenance – they did not strip the previous grey off first – it’s not ugly as hell – but the wood is still good. No mildew or rot that I can tell.
I’m taking it down to the bare wood. I’ll first apply a stripper, and take all the stains off, but I’m also going to sand down to the wood – start fresh.
I want a transparent stain – I want to see the wood grain, but apply a little color. Looking for neutral brown tones – staying away from cherry/redwood/cedar or honey notes.
Stains I’m looking at include: Behr Cordovan Brown Transparent, Valspar Canyon Brown Transparent, Olympic Canyon Brown Transparent, Cabot Australian Timber Oil Jarrah Brown.
Deck Location State: Central Texas
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full South Sun in Am/PM, Shade East Sun in AM/Partial Shade in PM
Wood Type: Pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Aged out. First built in 2012 was a semi-transparent cape-cod grey. A second application clear coat was put on a couple of years ago – it’s pealed, faded, and ugly as sin.
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): I’d be guessing – a Cape-Cod Grey semi-transparent followed up with a clear-coal of some kind without taking off the previous coat.
Try Armstrong Clark or TWP stains. Much better than the ones you are looking at. AC in Natural Oak would be a nice color.
Thanks – I ordered some samples from TWP – hopeful that the Pecan is good and we’ll go with that.
The weathered wood has a lot of crevices. To get all the old stain out do I:
Sand first ->use a stripper -> clean, or
Use a stripper -> sand-> clean, or
Just sand best as possible and wipe dust away?
If need a stripper – which one?
If need to clean/brighten – which one?
Try a stripper and pressure washing first. Sand if needed after, Clean and brighten for final prep. Try Restore A Deck Prep products.
Deck Location State: Maine, Lewiston
Full Sun from 11:00 – 2:00
Wood Type: New pressure treated installed 3 months ago
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: New wood
Previous Coating? None.
Would like to use a semi-transparent, penetrating stain and am looking for recommendations.
Thanks!
See for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Try Armstrong Clark wood stains.
I’ve never heard of Armstrong Clark and they seem to be only available directly from them, which not a problem. I’m wondering….are they a sponsor of your site or do you receive any compensation for recommending them? You seem to recommend them and TWP a lot.
TWP is a great stain as well. We do not receive compensation from anyone. As for who we are, you can read this in the very first article on the home page.
Thanks for the clarification and your prompt replies!
Deck Location State: Illinois, outside of St. Louis
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in afternoon
Wood Type: Trex – 11 years old
Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes! Also, very faded
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: have not previously stained
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): NA
The deck looks pretty bad – but is structurally in good shape. I’ve always been told that you cannot stain or seal a composite deck, so we’ve never attempted. I need to get the house ready to sell and this is an eyesore. Need help
Thank you!
We do not know of any stains that will work well for composite decking. Sorry.
Deck Location State: KANSAS
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
Wood Type: Cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: NO FAILURE. NEW DECK ATTACED TO OLD DECK. OLD DECK LAST STAINED/SEALED 10 YEARS AGO. NEW DECK NEVER STined/sealed.
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): BRAND/TYPE UNKNOWN
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
After the wait, prep all wood and stain with TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.
Deck Location State: Kansas City, Missouri
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in late afternoon
Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine 1 yr old never treated
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: This will be first stain treatment
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): no previous treatment
Use TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Wood Stain. Clean and brighten the wood for prep.
Deck Location: North Carolina, Swansboro
Sun: shade in AM, full sun in PM
Wood: pressure treated Pine. 3 yrs old
Mold: no
Never been stained
Thomson’ water seal 1 yr ago
Strip and brighten for prep. Restore A Deck wood stain or TWP 100 Series.
Deck Location State: Oregon
Full sun mid-day, light shade rest of day
Wood Type: Cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: Algae
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Probably failure to prep properly. No brightener used.
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain Not sure, probably Behr. Old layers may be solid and/or semi-transparent
Picture please of the current condition.