Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown
Update The Best Deck Stains 2019
Please read this article and post any questions you have in the comment are below. Our newly enhanced website now offers the ability to upload and post pictures of your exterior wood or deck. This will help us determine the proper prep and overall condition of your deck, leading to better performance.
This is an updated version of our most popular article What is the Best Deck Stain? We have had over 17,000 Q&A questions for the first article, helping consumers find the best wood and deck stain for their deck and specific environment.
The point of this article and DeckStainHelp.com is to offer guidance in choosing a quality deck stain that works well and will not create larger issues down the road when time to reapply. We have updated our original article by including answers to some of the most popular questions that we receive.
Here are some of the more popular answers to the most common questions:
- No deck stain will last 5+ years. A good quality stain will last 2 or maybe 3 years on a deck floor (horizontal) and typically twice as long on railings, siding, etc. (verticals).
- Penetrating stains will have less chance of peeling as they soak into the wood grain and do not film on top of the wood grain when fully cured.
- Penetrating deck stains are easier to maintain by cleaning and reapplying after 2-3 years.
- Filming Deck Stains that dry on top of the wood are harder to remove and/or reapply as they are more prone to peeling, wear, flaking, etc.
- Not all Deck Stains are penetrating. Even when they claim otherwise.
- Semi-transparent, Transparent, and Semi-Solids will show the grain of the wood to some extent. Solid stains, Deck Resurface Coatings, and Paints will not.
- Clear sealers without any pigment/color will not prevent UV graying. Lighter Pigmented stains that are Transparent, Semi-Transparent, or Semi-solid will have less UV protection than Darker Pigmented stains in the same transparency. More color/tint = better UV protection.
- Deck Stains are either Oil Based or Water Based. Filming or penetrating. Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, Solid (opaque) Stains or a Deck Resurface Coating. See here for more info on Deck Stain Types.
- Oil-based stains can still be used in all States and Canada as long as they are compliant to local VOC regulations.
- When switching brands of deck stain it is always best to remove the old coating first. Do this by using a Deck Stain Stripper and/or sanding.
- Always apply a Wood Brightener after prepping with a Stain Stripper or Wood Deck Cleaner to neutralize the caustic.
- New Decks (less than a year) are treated differently than older decks (more than 1 year). New decks need to be prepped and usually cannot be stained right away. See this about Staining New Decks.
- Prep, Prep, Prep = increased longevity of a stain.
What is the Best Deck Stain For My Deck?
This is the top question by far that we have gotten on DeckStainHelp.com. Unfortunately, there is not a “best” deck stain out there that will outperform every other stain, every single time.
A better way to approach this common question is to ask, “what is the best stain for my deck and it’s environment?” A wood deck stain that performs well in humid South Carolina does not mean it will perform well in the snowy Midwest states. VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) Laws come into effect for different parts of the country as well. This may limit what is available in your state or country. For example, TWP 100 cannot be used in 17 states and Canada that have a low VOC content of 250.
To understand a deck stain and its potential longevity, we should first look at why deck stains fail:
- UV rays from the sun will damage the wood resulting in degradation of the wood cellular structure. This will break down the stain while causing the wood to oxidize (turn gray).
- Water, snow, and ice will cause damage to the wood by breaking down the exposed cell structure.
- Freeze/thaw will expand and contract the wood resulting in the stain “bond” with the wood cells to fail.
- Mold, mildew, and algae will leave the wood unsightly/dirty and can result in rotting.
- High traffic areas will wear faster.
- The previous stain used was of low quality or applied poorly.
- The Stain was not applied properly or the wood was not prepped properly prior to application. Bad prep is the number one reason stains prematurely fail!
Once we figure out the main reasons for failure, then we should research what stains would better for your deck or exterior wood.
In our example deck, we will ask 5 questions. Based on these answers (Answers are in Red) we will narrow the choices to 2-3 stain brands:
Example Deck Questions and Answers:
- Deck Location State: Michigan
- Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
- Wood Type: Cedar
- Mold or Mildew Issues: No
- The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Dried Blotchy and Peeled after first Winter.
- Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Behr Premium Semi-Transparent
Michigan is currently a high 550 VOC state, so all decking stains are currently available. If you reside in Canada, East Coast States, or California, then you may have different options. We would suggest a penetrating stain semi-transparent or semi-solid stain that does well with UV protection and fades evenly over time. Making future reapplication easier.
Based on these questions and answers we would suggest one of these stains:
- TWP 100 Series (TWP 1500 if you are in a Low VOC State)
- Armstrong Clark Deck and Wood Stain
- Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain
- Defy Extreme Wood Stain
Ask in Comment Section Below. Make Sure to Include Answers to the 5 Questions.
Feel free to ask what are “the best deck stains for my deck”? Just post a comment below and make sure to include the answer to the 6 questions.
Adding a picture or two of the current condition will help!
Feel free to include any additional information that would be useful!
This is for a staircase.
Location: Northern California (Mountains, 2hr from Oregon)
Morning and afternoon sun on most areas. Shade in Winter months
The railing is Redwood and steps are Mahogany
We do have a mold problem on the railings. Built in 2004 and sealed multiple times with Superdeck transparent stain in Natural. We experience all seasons so we have a fair share of rain and snow and the sprinklers overspray in the summer. Temperatures are from high 20’s in the winter to just over 100 in the summer.
Strip and brighten the wood with Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with Restore A Deck Stains or TWP 1500 Series.
This question is for a Cedar pergola. Should we wait 2 to 3 months before applying a stain ? We are in Toronto, Canada and wondering if the climate will allow us to stain at that time. What would be the negatives of applying the stain once built and not wait ? Which stain would you recommend and should it be water or oil-based?
You have to wait or it will fail. Spring would be best. Clean and brighten for prep and then try Armstrong Clark or TWP 200 Series.
Pic of deck
Deck Location State: Nebraska
Full Sun
Wood Type: Unsure
Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Neglected
Previous Coating? Probably Semisolid or solid
See picture
Please provide some advice on how we should proceed with choosing a product and how to prep the surface.
Thank you!
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with Armsreogn Clark or TWP 100 Series.
What is the best stain and sealer for a deck in Michigan
We do have mold and mildew issues
Full sun and partial shade
Can’t remember the last product used
Last stained about 5 years ago. Wood is cracked and is 25 yrs old. It is recently power washed
Prep well and stain with Armstrong Clark or TWP 100 Series.
What is the best stain for a new ipe dock in South Carolina? This dock will receive full sun nearly the entire day.
Wait a few months and then clean and brighten for prep: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
trying to decide on best clear to semi transparent wood protector for new treated pine deck and stairs.
Live in Michigan.
Partial sun on deck, which is on the water.
Stairs are very shady in the summer.
would like product that will be easy to apply and reapply in years to come
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
After wait and prep, try TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.
Forgot to say I’d prefer to use a water based product and I do have trouble with mold/mildew on the stairs.
Thanks so much for your help!!
RAD Wood stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
Deck Location State: Illinois
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun all day.
Wood Type: Treated Lumber
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain: No previous stain.
Previous Coating? None, deck is one year old and has already been power washed using ‘ 30 Second ‘ brand deck cleaner.
Stain with TWP 1500 Series https://www.deckstainhelp.com/twp-1500-wood-and-deck-stain-review-2017/
or Restore A Deck Wood Stains https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
What is meant by ‘Wet on wet’ application?
Thanks
See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stain-instructions-for-wet-on-wet/
Please help me too! 😊
Deck Location State: Wisconsin
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in from 11-3pm, Shade in morning and late afternoon
Wood Type: Cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
Brand new deck installed 3 months ago—no previous stain.
Previous Coating? None.
Looking for a quality stain that will last 2-3 years.
See here for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Deck Location State: South Texas
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full shade in morning, full sun from mid-afternoon on.
Wood Type: Pressure treated pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: N/A
Previous Coating? None – about 5 years old.
For prep, clean and brighten with Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener Kits: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
Stain with the Restore A Deck Semi-transparent stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
or Armstrong Clark: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
We are in Western Washington, and get full sun until noon then tapers off to shade. Lots of sun in summer and lots of overcast and rain and drizzle in winter. The deck is a year old this month and is pressure treated fir. We don’t have any mildew or mold and nothing has been put on the deck.
See here for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
We live in north eastern Ontario. Our deck has sun exposure for the later morning, all afternoon and evening. It is cedar. It has been treated with cetol and then a Benjamin Moore product. The surface is peeling, fading, darkening, and looks terrible. It was an oil based, but am not sure if it was penetrating or filming. We have stripped, blondes and reapplied many stains with similar results. Any suggestions? No Mold issues
Strip and brighten again. Try TWP 200 Series.
location: Washington State, cabin about 150′ from salt water
full sun in areas not shaded by cabin eaves as the sun moves, main exposures are S, E and N
Wood: tight knot cedar, sanded down to bare wood with 60 grit on exposed sides
area areas of discoloration on the sanded surface
mold or mildew: yes
reason to replace: uneven breakdown (peeling and flaking) sun exposed areas really bad, others very good shape
previous coating: unknown, some kind of filming lacquer like coating, appx 7 yrs old,
photo shows deck area and bench, same wood, which was coated with same product but totally out of the sun and wear
looking for product which can be maintained without total removal each time….
Strip and power sand to remove. Brighten all wood when done. Stain with Armstong Clark or TWP 100 Series.
Would like to refinish my deck to either maintain the red cedar color or allow the grey cedar color… but would like it to look uniform as long as possible. Had a Cabot transparent product prior to the current tinted product and both looked blotchy after 1 year. Have a power washer, so hoping to avoid sanding. Appreciate any advice on prep and stain. Thanks!
1) Location: southwest Minnesota
2) Full sun, partial sun, or shade: Partial shade AM, Full sun midday, shade evening
3) Wood type: cedar
4) Mold or mildew issues: no
5) Reason for previous failure: Stained 2 summers ago, now worn and blotchy. Fair amount of traffic in the summer and lots of snow & ice in the other 3 seasons we have, “pre-winter”, winter, and “post-winter”
6) Previous coating: Cabot semi-transparent, oil-based, “new cedar” color
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Stains.
Would you recommend a high quality stain for my deck and required prep work? Thanks.
Ann
1) Location: Connecticut
2) Full sun, partial sun, or shade: morning partial sun with full sun in the afternoon
3) Wood type: pressure treated pine
4) mold or mildew issues: no
5) reason for previous failure: it’s been 5 years and is starting to peel
6) Previous coating: not sure but possibly Benjamin Moore Arbor Coat solid stain
You will need a solid stain again. Pressure wash for prep. Stain with one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
I posted a question about staining and old deck in Boise Idaho but do not find it in any of the question/answer areas. Did you receive it?
1 – Location: Boise, Idaho
2 – Part sun/part shade
3. Redwood deck with cedar panels on either side – 15+ years
4. Mold-mildew- none
5. I have stained it twice I can remember – both times with Cabot stain of reddish color. Believe last 2 were semi transparent
6. Current prep: power wash and sanded
7. House color: sage green with garden green trim.
I want as natural a look as possible though everyone I talked to (professional and non professional) say it is not possible.
Stain that has been recommended is Ready Seal cedar, semi transparent.
Help and suggestions will be appreciated! I just found your forum and the “stainers” are coming ready to stain on Monday afternoon (August 12). Pictures attached
We are not fans of Ready Seal. Fades in a year and can track in oils since it does not fully cure. Try TWP 100 Series.
Thanks for the input. Do you have a stain color you would recommend to come closest to keeping natural look?
Honeytone.
Hello. I have been pouring over your site with all the Q&As. This is great! (Yet, it is totally making me redo what I started.) We have a deck that is four years old–never been stained. I had someone clean it with Olympic deck cleaner, although he missed all the edges and didn’t get the stairs very well. I was told at HD that this was all that needed to be done and then stain. Now that I’ve read your stuff, I realize that not only do I need to finish the cleaning job correctly, but that I need to brighten it as well to neutralize the cleaner. I will have to order the RAD brightener as I can’t seem to find any in stores here (just west of Grand Rapids, MI). By the time I get the new products in the mail, it will have been almost a week since the deck was cleaned. Should I lightly clean it all again before using the brightener? And do I have to wait in between all steps for it to dry completely? Also, I had bought Olympic Maximum semi-transparent stain in Cinder color because I liked the idea of the transparent gray color (I have white posts, horizontal cables, and dark blue siding on the house). But as much as I hate to waste money, I don’t want to apply stain that is junk. What do you suggest? We have ravines directly behind our house so there are trees everywhere–which can definitely make a mess on the side of the deck that is not covered.
Lightly clean again and then brighten the wood. We would return the Olympic. Look at TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.
Thanks for the response. I was looking at the RAD stain (dark walnut) before you answered. I see that TWP 100 is the top oil-based on your list and RAD is the top water-based. So, I’m assuming from your recommendation that it would be better for me to use an oil-based one? Do they both perform equally when it comes to mold and mildew? Being next to the ravines and not getting light for very long each day–along with snow sitting on the deck most of the winter here in MI–that is probably our worst problem.
Either the RAD or TWP will work well. Both will last about the same. RAD will do abetter with mildew.
Hello,
Deck Location State: Wisconsin
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Partial Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
Wood Type: Pressure Treated
Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Peeled after first Winter, especially in high traffic areas
Previous Coating? Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Semi-Transparent Waterborne Formula
The deck is approximately 6 years old. We are wondering what would be the best stain to use when we refinish the deck? Also, what steps should we take to properly prepare the deck? Lastly, we are building a new pressure treated deck that will connect the old deck and are wondering how to best prepare and stain that deck. Is it possible/advisable to purchase the wood, let it dry in the garage, and then stain the wood before building the deck?
Thanks!
What you have on the deck is not semi-transparent but solid opaque in appearance. You will need to power sand this to remove it. Clean and brighten for final prep. Use a true penetrating semi-transparent stain like Armstrong Clark or TWP 100 series.
See this about new wood. You cannot let it dry in the garage and pre-stain it. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Hi I have a redwood deck. It is about 8 years old. the boards are in good shape but have tried 2 different product within the last 4 years. I put restore from home depot which was a disaster, peeling up in sheets after only one year. I had to hand scrape the product off and when I refinished I put on Behr solid stain which only lasted a year as well. I am in process of sanding off the Behr Solid stain now as I tried the stripper and it didn’t touch it.
My deck is in Spokane WA, It is in sun from about 8-3:30 every day. it is about 600 square feet. After sanding what should I do and which stain would you recommend? I am thinking semi transparent.
Clean and brighten for final prep and then stain with TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark Wood Stains.
Our decks are eight years old. They are about a foot above grade. Premature failure of stains has been a problem. Could it be that they are too close to the ground and perhaps the underside should have been stained before assembly?
We live north west of Seattle Washington.
More likely the stains you are using are not good and you may have not prepped correctly. If you remove all down to the bare wood and use a penetrating stain like TWP 100 Series, it will not peel.
Looking for product (cleaner, brightener, stain) recommendations for:
1.Indiana – 46167
2.Part sun/part shade
3.Pressure treated pine
4.Mold or Mildew Issues: Not yet
5 & 6. N/A – first time staining
Deck is 1 year old. Planning to power wash. Since deck is new, is cleaning and brightening still recommended? We prefer a natural wood finish look, so considering a transparent stain (not a clear sealer, we want some pigmentation).
Yes, clean and brighten while pressure washing. Look at Restore A Deck Wood stain or TWP 1500 Series.
Thank you, great website!
Welcome!
1. Deck Location State: Alabama
2. Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Part of the deck is in sun for AM, shade in PM, the worst part is mostly shady under some trees
3. Wood Type: Treated pine
4. Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes
5. The reason for Previous Stain Failure: the First stain was oil-based and it failed because we didn’t reapply after 2-3 yrs, We then power washed the stain off then restained with a water-based stain from Home depot which was terrible and didn’t last even a year, it wore off very quickly and let moisture penetrate the wood and mold and mildew followed. Our deck is 12 yrs old this year and we have a lot of rotten boards to replace already. Also, we had a metal ceiling installed under part of our deck so that we could sit under and not have to worry about rain, so there isn’t a lot of airflow underneath those areas. They installed it so water would flow away but it probably doesn’t help with the wood rotting issue.
6. Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): The oil-based was Cabot semi-transparent, the water-based was Behr semi-solid.
We took out a tree that shaded part of our deck so it gets more sun there but the worst part of our deck which wraps around most of our house so is a lot of square feet (approx. 2000) is still in mostly shade and has a lot of green mold or algae and some black mold/mildew. I have not found a product that will even clean that off well.
Strip and brighten for prep. You may need to sand as well to get all of the junky Behr stain off. Once fully removed, try TWP 100 Series.
Thank you so much. After replacing the rotted wood with new, now long will I need to wait before stripping, brightening and applying stain? Also, what do you recommend for the stipping and brightening? Restore a deck?
Let the new wood weather for a few months. You can use the RAD stripper and the additives will help as well. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Deck Location State: Kansas
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
Wood Type: probably treated decking boards from Home Depot
Mold or Mildew Issues: YES
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: neglect
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): unknown
Wood roughness: There are spots with splintering, otherwise smooth type lumber
Post a picture of the current condition. This will help to determine the proper prep.
Here you go.
Looks like you still have some oxidation of the wood. It would be best to use a deck cleaner and pressure wash again and then use a wood brightener. As for the stain to use, try TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Wood Stain in a semi-transparent color.
My replies are not being posted. I tried to send. It is older wood – maybe 12 years. However, it’s about as clean as you can get it after I scrubbed and power washed.
Image of deck
1 Florida
2 Mostly shade, but some areas have hard afternoon sun
3 Pine, pressure treated, kiln dried
4 Both mold and mildew
5 This is a new fence
6 No previous coating
Smooth wood or rough sawn cut?
Rough
You can stain it now since it is rough cut. Look at TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Wood Stains.
Thank you
Deck location Michigan
Full sun in am and afternoon
Pressure treated
No mildew
Just cleaned and applied O’Leary solar max
20 years old
Looks beautiful
If I apply another coat next spring, will it help longevity?
Necessary to power clean before?
You always have to prep before recoating. Only apply it if needed.
Thanks. Noticed to wait 4 hours before adding 2nd coat. Don’t think it needs one. Appreciate your knowledge.
We have recently purchased a property with a 900+ ft boardwalk over a coastal Georgia saltwater marsh to a boathouse. It needs protection. Preserving the wood is a key concern, not aesthetics. Pressure treated lumber. Built in 2004. Believe stained 6+ years ago.
1. What stains tend to work better in hot, humid, full sun locations (w/salt water environment)?
2. Would it make sense to turn the boardwalk into a test stain laboratory and use 5 or 6 different stains for comparison purposes over the next 2-3 years with similar color? (Then go with the one that performs best.)
3. Would it make sense to turn the boards over all at once or over time as the sun-facing side deteriorates? We desire to get as much wear as possible out of one side before turning. How can we tell when it is time to turn?
Many thanks for your advice and excellent website,
greg
1. Look at a penetrating semi-solid from Armstrong Clark: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
Your wood environment is harsh being in full sun. The AC Semi-solid will give the best UV protection while still soaking into the wood. It also will help condition the interior of the wood by adding non-dry oils.
2. No. Seems like a lot of work and uneven wearing due to the different brands.
3. No need to flip. We are not fans of this as the joist marks show and you can tear up the board when removing the nails. You are better off replacing boards as needed.
Make sure to prep well first before applying a stain.
Example Deck Questions and Answers:
Deck Location State: Southern Idaho
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in AM and through the late afternoon on the outer edges, interior is full shade.
Wood Type: Mahogany
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Faded quickly and stopped protecting from water. Exposed parts looked dried out.
Previous Coating? DuckBack Superdeck transparent stain (oil based), 1910-Natural
Strip and brighten the wood for the prep. The SuperDEck is easily removed. Stain with one of the Hardwood Stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
Thank you!
Deck Location State: Maryland
Full Shade in AM, Full Sun in Afternoon/Evening
Wood Type: Pressure Treated Lumber
Mold or Mildew Issues: Some
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Age: Last stained 6 years ago; deck at least 21 years old
Previous Coating? yes, several times: have used opaque stains – maybe Behr or Cabot
Look at one of these solid stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Location: Carlsbad, New Mexico
Temps in the summer are 90-112
New decorative pine (?) wood being used as porch ceiling. Installed in February. Un-treated.
We are constantly in a drought, so no more than 4″ of rain in the last 7 months and the rain will never touch the wood. I’m not terribly worried about mold, but I still want to avoid it.
Porch ceiling is not exposed to the sun, but does point East, so gets reflective light.
I like the look of the wood without it being stained. I just want to seal it and was going to use Thompson’s Water Sealer until I read all the horrible reviews. What should I use to seal it without a stain mixed in?
Thanks for any help.
Look at TWP in Clear or Defy Extreme Clear.
I thought you didn’t like Thompson’s products and that it attracted mold.
We don’t like Thompsons and we did not refer you to them so not sure what you mean?
Then what does TWP stand for? I read it as Thompson’s Wood Protector which is on the can I bought.
TWP and Thompson are not related: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/twp-100-series-wood-and-deck-stain-review-2016/
Thank you.
Deck Location State: Georgia
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: mostly full sun, with some partial shade from neighboring tree
Wood Type: Cedar and pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous stain failure: n/a-brand new deck! Done nothing so far
Previous Coating? Waiting a while before going through the prep you recommend for new decks, then hoping to get a natural or slightly darker cedar ish type stain that shows the wood grain
After wait and prep, try Restore A Deck Wood Stains or Armstrong Clark.
louise boone
new white pine , lightly sanded, cleaned and trying to use a penetrating oil transparent. All colors used are extremely yellow. looking for a pinkish light tan or peach color. limited colors availabl can they be mixed. extreme weather conditions in In Alaska
Sorry but semi-transparent stains are pink/peach in color that we know of.
Deck Location State: Massachusetts
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
Wood Type: Pretreated pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Was applied long time ago
Prep well so all old coatings, graying, and dirt is removed. Try the TWP 1500 or Armstong Clark wood stains.
1.Ohio
2. Full sun day, shade afternoon
3. Pretreated pine
4. Definitely algae (mold? ) in certain areas of deck, particularly areas in shade.
5 & 6. Deck was not prepped properly and solid stain was applied multiple times it did not adhere to the wood. We removed ALL coatings and will be putting product on well prepped bare wood. Pic is after removal.
Pic size is too big to send.
REduce pic size to less than 2 mb to upload.
You would want a penetrating stain as long as you removed all of the current stain.
Here’s the picks. Left was done 2 years ago & peeled right up. It didn’t adhere to wood. Left is pic of deck now.
Prep looks good to stain now. TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Wood stains.
The pic on left was done 2 years ago and peeled right up the pic on the right is the deck since I removed all paint.
I have an exterior covered porch with a privacy fence attached. The fence is cedar and the porch support posts are rough sawn Doug fir. I would like a darker brown colored stain for the cedar and Doug fir but most of these semi transparent stains hide the grain and end up looking a bit like paint. What would you recommend I use that will enhance the wood grain instead of covering it up like some of these semi transparent stains? Thanks
I live in Western South Dakota if that makes any difference.
A quality semi-transparent will not hide the grain at all. In fact, none of our tops brands will hide the grain and look like a paint: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
mich full sun live on the water deck installed 2015 stain with cabot 2016 some mildew semi transparent
Strip and brighten the wood with Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. Stain with TWP 100: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/twp-100-series-wood-and-deck-stain-review-2016/
or Armstrong Clark: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
Hi. I want to refinish the front porch of my home. I was thinking of using marine spar varnish as I like the look. I did a sample (see pic). Looks great. But some people have cautioned it can be very slick when wet and dangerous to walk on. What’s your opinion? Should I just stain it or stick with the marine spar? And which stain do you recommend? Do you recommend a clear coat on top?
Deck Location State:
California coastal. Deck has coverered roof and covered on three sides
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade:
Partial sun in am, mostly shade.
Wood Type: 100 year old Doug fir
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure:
Old Paint is peeling. At least 25 years old
Pics attached of current porch condition and also of sample of same wood with 5 coats of epifenes marine spar (shows high gloss)
You cannot use a spar varnish on a deck, it will peel. Just stain it. Nothing else is needed.
we live in Pennsylvania. Our deck is 7 years old, quite aged looking from being in the sun most of the day, but gets some green algae in one area behind a hot tub. We have pressure washed and are ready to stain. The previous stain, which become almost non existent, is pretty much gone after pressure washing. We are liking your rustic brown color, in a semi transparent, but need advice as to the kind of stain you in your brand. Should we use a wood cleaner before we stain?
Are you asking about Armstrong Clark? Yes, the Rustic Brown is a great color in the AC line and would work well: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
If the wood is clean, you should be okay to stain.
Could you pleas suggest a stain/seal on an older deck that has been treated every 2 years. We have done the cleaning and pressure washing before but the previous stain/seal did not last a 1yr.
1.Deck Location State: Pennsylvania
2.Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon. I also have tree that give shade
3.Wood Type: Treated Pine
4.Mold or Mildew Issues: yes
5.The reason for Previous Stain Failure:
6.Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Behr Premium Semi-Transparent: we have use TWP
The Behr will need to be removed. Strip and sand. Brightener after. Try Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
I have a new wood retaining wall that I would like to stain.
Location: Northern Virginia
Sun/shade: Shade in the morning, then 6-9 hours of full sun in the p.m. (west facing)
Wood Type: a treated wood, brand name “Culpeper No. 2”
Issues: the installation is brand new. No previous stain or painting.
My main reason for staining is color: the wood is quite raw and yellow in appearance (more yellow than the photo looks). I would prefer light gray/gray blue/pale brown tones while keeping the ability to see the wood grain. It’s right next to a red brick sidewalk so gray-blue would work well.
Appreciate any guidance.
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Okay, so guess I have to wait a while. Thanks.
I am looking for suggestions for a finish based on then following information.
Deck Location State: Southern Ontario
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full shade, covered front porch, with a bit of sun in the afternoon
Wood Type: Pine deck floor and pressure treated stairs
Mold or Mildew Issues: No. Porch is above house foundation and the soil underneath is very dry.
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: New finish
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): New finish. Looking for recommendations for a solid finish so that the two woods, pine and pressure treated spruce, look the same.
How new is the wood?
The pressure treated was installed last weekend and the pine has not been done yet. I want to decide on a finish before doing the pine so I can paint the edges of the T&G flooring before installing it. Hopefully this will provide better protection.
You cannot stain new wood right away nor can you pre stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Double ask.
Would you please suggest a product for:
California (San Francisco); partial shade, old redwood steps; possible mildew issue; previous Thompson Water Seal transparent sealant was applied several years ago and a new coating is needed. Thank you.
Prep well and try the TWP 1500 or Restore A Deck Wood stain in semi-transparent colors.
How should I prep my deck for re-staining if I use the same stain as before ?
Use a deck cleaner with pressure washing.
Deck Location State: Northern NJ
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in AM, Shade in PM
Wood Type: Pressure treated
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: N/A- deck was built a year ago- now starting to discolor and crack/wrinkle
Previous Coating? none- need recommendation
Prep with a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. Stain with TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark.
Hello, The ceiling of my porch could you some attention. It is just looking like the wood is getting dry. Answers to the questions are below. I have some Messemers UV Plus for hardwood decks in Natural already. Would that be ok?
Deck Location State: Northern NJ
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Mostly shade, as it is the ceiling of a porch
Wood Type: unknown
Mold or Mildew Issues: There was some white spots all over the ceiling. I am assuming that was mildew I washed off with water with a drop of dish soap and a soft brush.
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: age? I don’t think it has been treated since it was built 20 years ago, but this is my first year in the house.
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Unknown. See pic…
Thank you!
You can use the Messmers here.
Thank you! I should have also asked, is there a better product to consider as it is such a labor intensive process to paint a ceiling? Thank you!
A ceiling gets little to no sun so it will not matter much. There are better products but I think you will be fine with the Messmers on this for many years.
Bainbridge Island, WA
Full Sun
No mildew/mold, but wet climate
Cedar
4 yr old deck, no previous stain
We have sanded and washed the deck. Considering Messmer UV Plus but looking for recommendations. Thanks!
Use TWP 100 Series: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/twp-100-series-wood-and-deck-stain-review-2016/
or Armstrong Clark: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
Bainbridge Island, Washington
Full Sun
Cedar
Mild mildew issues (wet climate)
No previous stain; deck is 4 years old
Prep well first. Use TWP 100 Series: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/twp-100-series-wood-and-deck-stain-review-2016/
or Armstrong Clark: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
Fence Location State: Montana
Partial shade and water from spriklers
Wood Type: not sure, maybe cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: part of fence yes
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: fence is old over 15 years dried out but still in good condition.
Previous Coating? Dont know
Prep well and try Restore A Deck Wood Stain or TWP 100 Series.
Thanks for the great site. I have a small new deck, 150 sq ft, just finishing. This is red cedar, milled more than a year ago and plained a few days ago. Should I wait longer before staining? And I was instructed to sand before applying stain. It gets a lot of direct sun, and I am in Maine. No major mold issues here. Based on recommendations and reviews here, I’m thinking to use TWP 100 semi opaque. Here is how it looks now. Thanks again!
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
You need to weather and prep. Only the TWP 1500 is allowed in Maine.
This is my summer home in Maine. I could let it weather until next June and then prep and stain. Would you recommend covering the deck with tarp over the winter months (lots of ice and snow) both for the prep and to better preserve the finish for just seasonal use in future years?
No, do not tarp.