Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown
Update 2017 Please read this article and post any questions you have in the comment are below. Our newly enhanced website now offers the ability to upload and post pictures of your exterior wood or deck. This will help us determine the proper prep and overall condition of your deck, leading to better performance.
This is an updated version of our most popular article What is the Best Deck Stain? We have had over 11,000 Q&A questions for the first article, helping consumers find the best wood and deck stain for their deck and specific environment.
The point of this article and DeckStainHelp.com is to offer guidance in choosing a quality deck stain that works well and will not create larger issues down the road when time to reapply. We have updated our original article by including answers to some of our most popular questions that we receive.
Here are some of our most popular answers to remember, before proceeding with any questions below:
- No deck stain will last 5+ years. A good quality stain will last 2 or maybe 3 years on a deck floor (horizontal) and typically twice as long on railings, siding, etc. (verticals).
- Penetrating stains will have less chance of peeling as they soak into the wood grain and do not film on top of the wood grain when fully cured.
- Penetrating deck stains are easier to maintain by cleaning and reapplying after 2-3 years.
- Filming Deck Stains that dry on top of the wood are harder to remove and/or reapply as they are more prone to peeling, wear, flaking, etc.
- Not all Deck Stains are penetrating. Even when they claim otherwise.
- Semi-transparent, Transparent, and Semi-Solids will show the grain of the wood to some extent. Solid stains, Deck Resurface Coatings, and Paints will not.
- Clear sealers without any pigment/color will not prevent UV graying. Lighter Pigmented stains that are Transparent, Semi-Transparent, or Semi-solid will have less UV protection than Darker Pigmented stains in the same transparency. More color/tint = better UV protection.
- Deck Stains are either Oil Based or Water Based. Filming or penetrating. Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, Solid (opaque) Stains or a Deck Resurface Coating. See here for more info on Deck Stain Types.
- Oil based stains can still be used in all States and Canada as long as they are compliant to local VOC regulations.
- When switching brands of deck stain it is always best to remove the old coating first. Do this by using a Deck Stain Stripper and/or sanding.
- Always apply a Wood Brightener after prepping with a Stain Stripper or Wood Deck Cleaner to neutralize the caustic.
- New Decks (less than a year) are treated differently than older decks (more than 1 year). New decks need to be prepped and usually cannot be stained right away. See this about Staining New Decks.
- Prep, Prep, Prep = increased longevity of a stain.
What is the Best Deck Stain For My Deck?
This is the top question by far that we have gotten on DeckStainHelp.com. Unfortunately, there is not a “best” deck stain out there that will outperform every other stain, every single time.
A better way to approach this common question is to ask, “what is the best stain for my deck and it’s environment?” A wood deck stain that performs well in humid South Carolina does not mean it will perform well in the snowy Midwest states. VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) Laws come into effect for different parts of the country as well. This may limit what is available in your state or country. For example, TWP 100 cannot be used in 17 states and Canada that have a low VOC content of 250.
To understand a deck stain and its potential longevity, we should first look at why deck stains fail:
- UV rays from the sun will damage the wood resulting in degradation of the wood cellular structure. This will break down the stain while causing the wood to oxidize (turn gray).
- Water, snow, and ice will cause damage to the wood by breaking down the exposed cell structure.
- Freeze/thaw will expand and contract the wood resulting in the stain “bond” with the wood cells to fail.
- Mold, mildew, and algae will leave the wood unsightly/dirty and can result in rotting.
- High traffic areas will wear faster.
- The previous stain used was of low quality or applied poorly.
- The Stain was not applied properly or the wood was not prepped properly prior to application. Bad prep is the number one reason stains prematurely fail!
Once we figure out the main reasons for failure, then we should research what stains would better for your deck or exterior wood.
In our example deck, we will ask 5 questions. Based on these answers (Answers are in Red) we will narrow the choices to 2-3 stain brands:
Example Deck Questions and Answers:
- Deck Location State: Michigan
- Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
- Wood Type: Cedar
- Mold or Mildew Issues: No
- The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Dried Blotchy and Peeled after first Winter.
- Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): Behr Premium Semi-Transparent
Michigan is currently a high 550 VOC state, so all decking stains are currently available. If you reside in Canada, East Coast States, or California, then you may have different options. We would suggest a penetrating stain semi-transparent or semi-solid stain that does well with UV protection and fades evenly over time. Making future reapplication easier.
Based on these questions and answers we would suggest one of these stains:
- TWP 100 Series (TWP 1500 if you are in a Low VOC State)
- Armstrong Clark Deck and Wood Stain
- Defy Extreme Wood Stain
Ask in Comment Section Below. Make Sure to Include Answers to the 5 Questions.
Feel free to ask what are “the best deck stains for my deck”? Just post a comment below and make sure to include the answer to the 6 questions.
Adding a picture or two of the current condition will help!
Feel free to include any additional information that would be useful!
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3283 Comments on "The Best Deck Stains?"
1. Deck Location: Seattle, WA
2. Full sun (it is a rooftop deck)
3. Wood Type: Cedar
4. Mold or Mildew Issues: Some very slight mildew I believe, not a lot.
5. Reason for previous stain failure: Not sure really, it is a new build home (1yr 2mo old) and whatever stain was used just doesn’t look good anymore.
6. Previous coating: Don’t know for a fact, but was suggested by the building representative to use penofin stain — not sure if that’s because that’s what they used or not. But after doing research and reading reviews, it looks like that’s actually not the way to go.
Extra notes – We get a LOT of rain usually. There isn’t really an ounce of shade during sunny days. We have multiple items up top that get shifted around (chairs, hammock stand, bbq, etc) not an extreme amount, but often enough. Some screw “entrance points” are splitting…not sure if there is anything to do for that. Any insight/help is much appreciated. Don’t have access to a power washer, but do have water/hose up top. Would also like to know if based on pictures if I’ll need to sanding or not.
Pictures:
1st – Shows the original color of the deck (that section was under the bbq all summer). The “white” area is where the water sat on it after coming off bbq cover I believe.
2nd – Was a ding dong with a power washer (had borrowed one to try and clean it) and got to close and used incorrect tip.
3rd – Just overall picture of condition.
Easy prep with the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener kit. Using a pressure washer with the prep kit will make it a lot easier.
Stain with TWP 100 Series.
1. Deck location state: Arkansas
2.Full Sun, Partial Sun, Full Shade: Two covered decks partial sun; one uncovered deck full sun filtered through trees
3.Wood Type: Pressure treated Pine
4:Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes. We are in the woods.
5.The Reason forPrevious Stain Failure: Unknown. Decks are 8 years old and have been stained by ‘professionals’ twice. They are dry and splotchy. The sun deck looks as though it’s never been treated.
6.Previous Coating: Stain. Unknown type/brand. Photo 1-sun deck;
Photo 2-covered deck
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kits first. Stain with Defy Extreme or TWP 100 Series.
Deck Location State: Atlanta, Georgia
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, Shade in Afternoon
Wood Type: Treated southern yellow pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure:
New Deck. Six months old.
Thanks
Clean and brigthen the wood for the prep and stain with TWP 100 Series or Defy Extreme.
Wonderful website! But still need help re. 1200 sq. ft. PT deck, Baltimore, MD; full sun AM, gradual to shade (eastern exposure). Mild green in shadier area. Deck old, dry, cracks, warped boards, some end boards popped (2″ screws). This fall I want to restore deck to extent possible. Last stain long ago…10-15 yrs?… I think Cabot semi-transparent. Amazingly, enough left on decking that I plan to strip, power wash, brighten, apply 2 coats stain….before weather gets cold.
1 — From above info, plus concern for cost, (very dry wood), and ease of application and upkeep, (I’m pretty old!), do you have any particular recommendation for what stain and other product I should use? (Will attach pix.)
2 — I have to replace some rotted boards and warped ends of boards where screws are stripped. I assume that would have to be done after the old wood is cleaned and stained? But the new boards would have to weather until spring before staining; how can I protect the older completed decking while I clean and stain the new wood at that time?
Thanks for any suggestions!
1. Prep with Restore A Deck Kits and stain with TWP 1500 Series.
2. After the prep, stain all now, even the new boards. Recoat the new boards in the Spring. Leave the older wood alone then.
What’s the best stain for my deck?
1. Location: Nags Head, North Caroline (within 2 blks of beach)
2. Sun: Full – Extreme Sun all day long.
3. Wood type: Pressure treated Pine.
4. Mold / Mildew: Deck was professionally cleaned about 6 months ago and all seemed to be removed.
5. Previous Stain Failure: Deck is 2-3 years old, but never stained.
6. Type of stain: N/A
What do you think about Olympic Elite Advanced Stain and Sealant in One? Consumer Report gave it high marks.
Not a fan of the Olympic: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/olympic-maximum-stain-sealant-in-one-review/
or of Consumer Reports: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/latest-consumer-magazine-reports-on-decking-stains/
Try TWP 100 Series or Defy Extreme stains.
1.Deck Location State: Maryland
2.Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Shade in Am, Full Sun in Afternoon
3.Wood Type: 3×6 Cedar, untreated
4.Mold or Mildew Issues: yes, Mildew
5.The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Was a penetrating type, little pigment, mildew developed. About 3 years since last refinish.
6.Previous Coating? Not sure, no trace of it left
My serviceman likes to sand the whole deck as a prep. Is this recommended?
Deck Location State: Michigan
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Deck#1 Full shade (rails are already done in a solid stain) Deck#2 Full/Partial sun in AM, Partial/Full Shade afternoon.
Wood Type: Treated
Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Deck#1 want to protect deck floor, wood is 20+ years still in great condition. Deck#2 Want to treat deck & rails 15 years old, great condition, new pool so it is exposed to more sun as well as water.
Previous Coating? Behr solid color stain on Deck#1 rails only.
We are getting ready to seal and stain our brand new deck . We noticed this black spots in the wood . Can someone please tell us what are these stains and how can we take care of it . Thank you
Looks like rust. Try a wood brightener to fix. Apply to the entire deck.
Hello, I am looking for an exterior stain that would match my house…tan, white trim and green for the door. I was hoping for a semi-transparent but that seems impossible to find. I know most say that oil stains are the best but I can’t find those colors in an exterior stain. Can anyone recommend a good stain that might have those colors? Thank you for your help
There is not any that we know of.
1.Deck Location State: Central Maryland, near Bay
2.Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Shade in Am, Full Sun in Afternoon
3.Wood Type: pressure treated #1 pine, installed fall 2016
4.Mold or Mildew Issues: yes
5.The reason for Previous Stain Failure: NA- new in 2016
6.Previous Coating? No
Clean and brighten the wood for the prep and stain with TWP 1500 or Defy Extreme.
New fence put up May 2017 in Lenexa, KS
Full sun in some areas partial sun in other areas
Cedar
No mold or mildew
No stain or coating on yet
Semi-transparent stain is what we want to use.
TWP 100 Series or Defy Extreme Stain. Clean and brighten the wood for prep first.
Deck Location State: Massachusetts
Full to Partial Shade AM, Full Sun PM
Wood Type: Cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes
No Stain applied yet. 6 year old Deck. We used Restore-A-Deck Cleaner and Brightener today, Sunday, Sept. 17th. We had pressure washed it 2 weeks ago, but didn’t get all of the mold off. The Restore-A-Deck got the rest of it off except for a couple of darker spots. We know we need to stain in 48 hrs to 2 weeks. Can you please recommend a mold resistant stain? Should it be a dark stain? We were hoping to use a Semi-Transparent one, but are open to using a solid stain.
TWP 1500 Series or Defy Extreme for this deck. Any color you like will work.
Deck Location State: North Carolina
Half is full sun, half is full shade
Pressure treated pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes
Previous Coating? Behr Semi-Transparent
Remove the Behr by stripping and pressure washing. Sand if needed to remove all. Brighten the wood after to neutralize. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Defy Extreme.
Thank you for your help! We ordered a sample of the 1500 Series yesterday, but see you recommended 100. Is there a big difference between the two series?
You could use either for this. They both last about the same.
Saskatoon, sk.
Full sun, all day
Pressure treated wood, very sqeaky and dry deck.
Previous stain, sikkens
What stain would hold up the best?
Strip and brighten the wood to remove the Sikkens. Stain with Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color.
My “mature” deck is in Wisconsin. Deck is probably between 15-20 years old.
Shade in the am; Partial sun to full sun in the pm
Cedar
Haven’t stained in 3 years
Does get green mildew
Previous stain used is Cabot’s oil-based semi-solid
I prefer a low VOC stain.
Strip and brighten for the prep and try the Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color. It is a low VOC oil based stain.
Hi, I am in Canada, hope you still can give advice.
Deck Location State: Toronto, ON, Canada (Weather is just couple of degrees colder than Cleveland; it’s semi-continental climate, with a warm, humid summer and a cold winter).
Mostly Full Sun (western exposure); Partial Shade
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: This will be first time staining, pressure-treated wood, built in fall of 2016.
Previous Coating? Never stained before. I want to go for solid stain.
Thank you!
Use a deck cleaner and presure washing for prep. For a solid stain, try the Flood solid stains.
Hello , our contractor just finished building our deck 2 weeks ago. We live in NJ and we’re planning to do the sealing and staining ourselves by the end of the month, we followed the 4 weeks waiting rule. Does the wood needs to be prep and if so , could you e mail me a link , a step by step on how do we proceed. Thanks . We would like to use oil base semi transparent light oak , please recommend which brand to use in our neck of the wood . Thanks, we appreciate any advise and recommendations.
It is not 4 weeks but close to 3 months for new wood for most stain brands. See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Use Arsmtrong Clark Natural Oak after 3 months and prep.
Hello, I live in New Jersey and I need to stain and seal my deck. I am planning on using a semi transparent stain. Do you recommend oil or water based? Which brand do you highly recommend? Thank you.
TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark stains.
North Carolina, full shade on north side, pressured treated pine, new deck never been stained. What is best semi transparent stain? How will just a clear sealer hold up? The deck is surrounded by lots of trees, so it gets constant twigs, nuts and leaves on it.
See this about new decks: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Clear with no color at all will not provide any UV protection from graying.
Best for Alabama. Mid state. Deck 6 years old. Has been sealed. Shade part sun.
Prep wel and try the Defy Extreme or TWP stains.
Location: Detroit, MI
Sun: Full sun in the AM, Shade in Mid to Late Afternoon
Wood Type: Pressure -Treated, Not sure of type, but it’s light colored
Mold or Mildew: No
Previous stain failure: None. Porch is new
Previous stain: None. Deck is new
Question: What outdoor temperature should it be when I put the stain on the wood and what kind is best; solid color or semi-transparent. It’s getting real close to winter here. Thanks
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
1. Location: Chatham, New Jersey (Northern New Jersey)
2. Sun: Partial Shade
3. Wood: #1 Red Cedar, new
4. Mold or Mildew: None but one corner of fence is heavily in shade
5. Previous stain Failure: None
6. Previous Stains: None
Try TWP 1500 Series.
Location: Ozarks, Missouri
Sun: Full sun mid-morning until mid- late-afternoon
Wood: Pressure treated #2 Pine
Mold or Mildew: None yet, deck is just completed
Previous stain failure: None. Deck is new
Previous stain: None. Deck is new.
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
1. Calgary, Canada
2. Full, full sun,
3. Pressure treated
4. no
5. Never been stained or coated, over a couple years old, greying, some cracking
What kind of prep and stain would hold up well?
Clean and brighten for the prep. Stain with Armstrong Clark.
Sanding required? Or would the clean and brighten do the job without it?
No sanding should be needed.
Lots to learn, appreciate your help!
1. Massachusetts
2. Lots of sun
3. Pressure treated pine built in april 2017
4. No mold or mildew
5. n/a since new deck
6.No coating since new deck
See this for info on new decks: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
1.Deck Location State: Minnesota
2.Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Partial to Full Shade on Deck and Full Sun on fence
3.Wood Type: Treated Pine
4.Mold or Mildew Issues: No
5.The reason for Previous Stain Failure: No longer sheds water.
6.Previous Coating? 4 year old deck never stained.
Prep with Restore A Deck kits and stain with TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.
1.Deck Location State: Minneapolis, Minnesota
2.Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Deck is mostly Full Shade throughout the day but most of the fence is mostly Full Sun throughout the day
3.Wood Type: Treated Pine
4.Mold or Mildew Issues: No
5.The reason for Previous Stain Failure: 4 year old fence never stained. Does not sheds water and looks gray.
6.Previous Coating? None. I am thinking about an oil based Semi-Transparent but not sure best brand for longest lasting protection.
Armstrong Clark or TWP 100 Series. Make sure to prep well first.
Thanks a ton. If I powerwash well would that b enough prep? Is there a cleaner/brightner I can run through the powerwasher?
You cannot run a deck cleaner through a pressure washer. Apply with a pump sprayer and then pressure wash off. Brighten after.
Year old deck. Treated pine. 3/4 of it is covered and still looks new. I will be staining with defy extreme.
Since it will be my first coat should I just use one heavy coat.
No. Two light coats wet on wet since it is a year old.
Does defy extreme penetrate pretty good considering it’s a water based stain
Hi – thanks, your help is much appreciated
1. Northern California
2. Shade morning, Sun afternoon
3. Pressure treated Redwood
4. very slight mold
5. It’s been 10 years since we treated our deck – it’s over 20 years old
6. Timber Oil
What do you think of CabotGold, semi-transparent or Deck Correct?
We are not a fan of Cabots since they were bought out years ago and they changed the formulations.
Prep with Restore A Deck Kits and stain with the TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark.
Hi, here are my questions:
1. New York
2. Full shade
3. Pressure treated pine
4. Yes
5. Brand new wood-June 2017, stain now or should I wait for Spring?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
1.Deck Location State: Virginia
2.Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Partial Sun in Am, Full Sun in Afternoon
3.Wood Type: Treated Pine
4.Mold or Mildew Issues: No
5.The reason for Previous Stain Failure: 3 years since first application, no longer sheds water.
6.Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain (Transparent, Semi-transparent, Semi-solid, Solid Stain): TWP Semi-Transparent – Pecan. Started with wood cleaner and brightener before first coat.
Stay with the TWP Pecan. Clean and brighten the wood for prep.
What product to use on our deck now that previous finish is no longer available. Also, how to prep.
1. Northern Minnesota
2. Under 3′ eaves, full shade. Rest is partial sun as is on north side of building with a big tree close to one end.
3. Pressure treated–pine I suppose
4. No
5. Some areas wore down to wood. Some peeling which I have scraped off.
6. Not sure on first coat, maybe an Ace brand. Second and subsequent coating is Sikkens Cetol SRD semi-transparent which, I am told, is no longer available.
Unfortunately, nothing can be applied over this. You will need to remove all first and that will require sanding. Once sanded off, clean and brighten the wood for the final prep. After the prep, try TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.
I live in Maryland. I have 2 decks. Both get a lot of sun. The wood is ipe, No mold or mildew. No stain in at least 5 years. I have stained cedar siding for the house. your suggestions for stains would be most helpful. Your articles are excellent.
IPE requires annual reapplication. Try the Armstrong Clark in Amber or Mahogany colors. Clean and brighten the wood for the prep.
Deck Location State: Virginia
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Partial-leaning-more-towards-Full Shade
Wood Type: Not sure, appears to be standard pressure treated wood, maybe cedar or pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: Not really, but does get a lot of rain. With many large trees creating a canopy above.
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Does not appear the deck was ever stained previously. If so, it’s been many years.
Previous Coating? Not sure. See comment above.
Prep with Restore A Deck Cleaning Kits. Stain with TWP or Armstrong Clark.
Deck Location State: North Carolina
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Shade
Wood Type: old pressure treated wood of some sort
Mold or Mildew Issues: No, but there is a lot of rain and humidity, so mold is a concern.
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Deck has been neglected and there doesn’t seem to be any stain left on it. wood is old and worn but still strong and not soggy for the most part.
Previous Coating? unknown
– Trying to figure out what to do to restore the deck and extend it’s life.
Prep with the Restore A Deck products and then stain with TWP 100 Series or the Defy Extreme stains.
Looking to stain the deck on a house we just purchased, and I’m not 100% on these answers.
1. Wisconsin
2. Shade for almost full day
3. Unsure but looks like pressure treated lumber
4. Some mold/mildew visible
5. Looks like it was never stained
6. N/A
Prep with the Restore A Deck Cleaning Kits. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.
What is the best deck prep product AND durable stain to use for our newly installed deck? Thank you!
1. Seattle, WA – wet weather Oct – March
2. South exposure – full sun all day, summer months
3. Untreated, kiln dried Cedar
4. Some mold/mildew potential, yes.
5. Brand new deck floor/stairs – installed 2 months ago
6. Railing and ballusters are pretreated/prestained lumber – was installed 14 yrs ago. Will need cleaning but should we add stain?
Try the TWP 100 series or the Armstrong Clark for all the wood. Clean and brighten all the wood for the prep as well. You should stain the railings.
1.Tennessee
2.Full sun all day
3. pressure treated lumber
4. Age >5 years from inital application
5. Sherwin Wms. Deckscapes oil base
Strip and brighten to remove the SW. Stain with Armstrong Clark in semi-solid color for full sun.
1. Ohio
2. Full sun all day
3. Pressure Treated Lumber
4. No
5. First time application on PT deck 12 months old
Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500. Clean and brighten for the prep.
1. IL
2. Full sun until mid afternoon
3. red cedar
4. no (new deck)
5. n/a
6. n/a
It will be great if there is a recommended stain that can be found at Menards!
Lori, see this for tips on decks that are new: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
What’s the best stain for my deck?
1. Location: South Jersey I-95 Corridor.
2. Sun: Full – Extreme Sun all day long.
3. Wood type: Pressure treated Pine.
4. Mold Mildew: Not visible.
5. Previous Stain Failure: Faded, washed out looking in 4 months.
6. Type of stain: No idea must have been Semi Transparent due to how quickly it faded and looks dull and washed out but I really don’t know anything about stain.
I just received a quote to have work done on the deck. It’s over 1 year old and already has warped boards and as I stated faded, washed out finish. I need some direction on what’s going to protect the wood and preserve the finish in the beat down from the all day sun.
The quote states that they will remove, sand, replace warped boards and wash and brighten then apply wet on wet stain. What type should I request?
For full sun, try the Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color.
Deck Location State: North Georgia
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun on half of deck, Shade on half of deck that has roof
Wood Type: Pressure treated pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: some light mildew
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Not sure when it was last stained, we have owned for 2 years. It is peeling in some places.
Previous Coating? If so brand name and type of stain: solid stain
If peeling does the deck need to be stripped? Or could it be power washed and then 2 coats of solid stain?
If stripped, does the deck need 2 coats of a solid stain?
Thank you!
Is using a solid stain again, prep by pressure washing to remove the loose/peeling stain. You can leave the intact stain. How many coats depends on the brand of stain you use and even the color.
1. Deck Location State: New York (coastal Long Island)
2. Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun
3. Wood Type: Mahogany
4. Mold or Mildew Issues: No. Not concerned about graying/weathering. Solely concerned about splinters
5. The reason for Previous Stain Failure: Never stained or sealed
6 .Previous Coating: none
If you just want to seal, try Defy Extreme Clear.
Very informative article, thanks. We just moved to a new house and the deck really needs a new finish.
Deck Location State: charleston, sc
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun in Am, partial in Afternoon. Very humid in summers
Wood Type: pine maybe? Honestly not really sure
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: looks like it just wore out
Previous Coating? No idea, almost totally worn off down to bare wood
Prep with the Restore A Deck Cleaning Kits. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark stains.
Just built a redwood deck in northern MN, wood has been seasoned/weathered for the last 4 months. Gets full sun in the afternoon, otherwise very shady. It’s a very low to the ground deck, so I’m wondering what would be the best stain for keeping the color of the redwood while also providing the best protection.
David, see this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
We will be replacing our front porch & stairs soon, and would appreciate your guidance.
1. If we build in September, as planned, we won’t be able to stain it before winter. Will it be damaging to go through one of our cold and snowy winters unprotected? Would it be better to wait until spring?
2. It has been suggested to us that we’ll have better longevity and less frequent maintenance if we stain the lumber before building, so that all surfaces get a good coating of stain. Can you provide any insight on this?
3. We are looking for solid or, at least, semi-solid stain. Our existing porch is painted and while we prefer to stain the new one, we don’t want to change the look too much (neighbourhood architectural controls).
4. We are first-timers at this, so any tips as to how to get the best result are welcome.
Deck location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Sun exposure: west-facing – full sun in afternoon, shady in morning
Wood type: new pressure treated pine
Mold/mildew issues: no.
Reason for failure: N/A – new porch & stairs.
Previous coating: N/A
Many thanks for any guidance you can provide!
1. Waiting until Spring will be fine.
2. No that is not true and almost all brands need you to weather the wood first. No pre staining is suggested.
3. For a solid stain, look at the Flood brand.
4. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thanks very much for the quick reply. Just to clarify on #1: we’d prefer to build it in September rather than wait until spring, but are wondering if there is any harm in having the unstained deck go through winter? Thanks.
Winter will not harm the wood for one season.
Thanks so much!
Deck Location: Cape Cod, MA near the ocean
Sun: Full sun in AM, gradually shaded by trees and house in the afternoon
Wood type: Pressure-treated lumber
Mold or mildew: seeing some small amounts here and there (deck is 700 sq ft)
Reason for previous failure: N/A
Previous coating: None – deck is two years old and has never been stained
1) What should I use to treat the wood to get it ready for stain?
2) What is the right stain? We get all the weather – hot, cold, salt air, high humidity, snow/ice. My preference would be a semi-transparent.
3) Should I stain the underneath of the deck? The deck is 8′ off the ground so easily accessible
Very informative site! Thanks for any response!
1. Deck cleaner and pressure washing. Wood brightener after.
2. Try TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark
3. No need to stain the underside unless you want to for appearance.
Doesn’t pressure washing tear up the wood?
There is some mildew on the underside, what can I treat it with to prevent it from coming back, if I don’t stain it?
Not with proper technique and while using a deck cleaner. Clean and wash the other side with the same. You cannot stop mildew from coming back but a product called “Wet and Forget” could help.
What is the best deck stripper and cleaner? One store said to use their extra strength bleach produce to remove the black areas on my deck which I suppose is mold and/or mildew.
Use Restore A Deck Products for this.
Hello, recently had new fence installed Jul’17. Installer recommended to stain/seal prior to winter. looking for advice on timing and best products(s) to use for this project. Thank you!
Deck Location State: Western New York
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Full Sun
Wood Type: pine
Mold or Mildew Issues: No
The reason for Previous Stain Failure: new wood never been stained
Prep with a Wood Deck Cleaner and pressure washing. Stain with TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark.
one last question … would it be ok to wait until the spring to stain? although all the fence boards are rough sawn the posts I’m sure have mill glaze and higher moisture content. if waiting till spring would I simply prep with cleaner and brightener and then stain? thanks again for all the advice.
Yes, no issues to wait until Spring and then prep and stain.
Thank you for the reply. I was considering Defy Extreme. would that be an acceptable choice?
Yes that will work.
I have a new (July 17′) pressure treated pine fence. located in Western New York, full sun for most of the day. was recommended to stain/seal before winter. looking for advice on when to apply and the best product(s) to use. fairly large 300 linear ft of shadowbox fence. Thank you