- TimberOil Brand is ideal for new wood decks, offering easy application and full penetration into cedar, redwood, and pressure-treated pine with no surface film.
- The stain earned a strong ease of application score of 10, applying smoothly with a garden sprayer and pad applicator on new Western Red Cedar.
- UV protection is average, with about 50% of color remaining at the 2-year mark, fading naturally without darkening or peeling issues.
- The paraffin oil base resists mold and mildew better than linseed oil stains, with minimal growth observed over the full 2-year test period.
Not to be confused with Cabot Australian Timber Oil
Timber Oil Brand is a deep penetrating paraffin oil-based wood and deck stain. This stain dives deep into all exterior wood to condition the wood cells while preventing UV fading and water damage.
TimberOil Brand is strongly suggested by the manufacturer for all new wood. Many wood and deck stains have difficulty with penetrating new exterior wood such as cedar, redwood, and especially pressure-treated pine. Timber Oil Brand promises ease of application and proper penetration into new decking.
Note: We tested the TimberOil Brand on a new cedar deck three weeks after installation. Only prepping was a light cleaning to remove the dirt.
TimberOil Brand Stain Rating (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
– The Timber Oil Brand looked even on our new cedar test deck. No overlapping or issues were apparent. The Honey Gold color was a rich “wet look”. The railings did not have any drips or runs. Penetration into the wood was 100% with no surface film or oily residue.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 5
– About 50% of the original color was left after 2 years. Wood looked more “natural”.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
– Timber Oil Brand had a slight amount of wearing on the railings otherwise, there were no issues.
Cost Per Square Foot: 7
– We used 6 gallons of the Timber Oil Brand for our cedar deck. The cost was decent per gallon but square footage was a little on the low side. Not bad but average. About $.31 a foot.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 8
– Paraffin oils do not “feed” mold or mildew growth like other oil-based stains that contain linseed oil. Little to no mold was noticeable on the cedar. A small amount of algae around the railings.
Ease of Application: 10
– Very very nice to apply! We were surprised at the ease of application on the new cedar. We applied the Timber Oil Brand with a garden sprayer then back wiped the excess with a pad applicator. At the time of application, there was puddling under the railings from overspray but this went away once dried.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
– No darkening for the Timber Oil Brand. Fades lightly while looking more natural.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
– Light cleaning to remove dirt and grime. No need to strip or sand.
Overall Score TimberOil Brand Stain at 2 Year Period: 7.875
– If you have a new deck then Timber Oil Brand would be our top choice. Fades faster than some of the top stains but still lasts the normal benchmark of two years. The ease of application is a plus.
Product Information:
Where To Buy: Click to Find on Google
Cost: $59 per Gallon, $289 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent Paraffin Oil Based
Available Colors: Warm Honey Gold, Western Cedar, Brown Sugar, Amaretto
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1-2 Coats
Coverage Per Gallon: 150 sq. ft per gallon as tested
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 2-24 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Extreme Solutions
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: 1-month-old Western Red Cedar Deck
Deck Square Footage: 800
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Warm Honey Gold
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take in consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Hey, Scott – Any thoughts on Woodrich’s Clear Advantage? I think it came out in 2023, but I haven’t seen any “real world” reviews. Curious if using it as a maintenance coat to extend the life of an existing Timber Oil stain would be effective. (It would be easier for me than a refresher coat of the tinted oil – less masking and less clean up. I’m messy. LOL)
Thx!
Never used it. It is clear, so it has zero ability to prevent UV graying. Not sure that the claim that it will extend a stain’s lifespan is actually feasible. The main reason stains fail over time is UV degradation, and it does nothing for that. It may help with the aesthetics a bit, but it will not actually make your stain last longer.
Thanks for your insights (and quick reply). Good point,
Are all these companies that you review owned by the same corporation?
I noticed on the restore a deck site they link to …and sell…several of the other products you recommend!
What gives? And are the reviews here on your site completely independent?
Thanks!
No, they are not owned by the same corporation, all independent. The very first article on the home page explains all.
I accidentally bought and painted half my deck with the stain for hardwood- and I have treated pine. Do I need to buy another 5 gal for softwood and start over?
No, just finish it with what you have. It will be fine.
can it be used on wooden fences
Yes.
Is there a difference between the Cabot and Woodrich brands of timber oil? I have cedar deck that has not been previously sealed or stained.
Completely different products and manufacturers.
I have a new redwood deck that I am planning on using Woodrich TimberOil to stain. Will this stain make the deck more slippery when wet than it would be otherwise? Thank you!
No, it will not.
Are skid resistant additives appropriate for this type of wood finish on stairs; would you recommend their use?
You cannot apply an anti-skid additive to a penetrating deck stain like this.
Thank you.
Are Skid resistance additives Helpful to reduce slipping and falls; do you recommend this type of product ??
Hi,
I live in Melbourne, Australia,. We have a varied weather from very dry hot summer (46 Degree C to frosty and wet winter 2 Degree C. We have recently installed new merbau decking and my preference is to have oil based stain. Could you please suggest me the best quality oil based satin. Unless you suggest other than oil based.
Thank you in Advance
Not sure what brands are sold there and if any good. The states have different stain options.
Just put down new pressure treated pine deck boards. Live in South Carolina with lots of heat and humidity. Deck also gets hours of direct sunlight in the afternoon. I am waiting until fall to stain when thing cool off about 4 to 7 months to stain. Stuck between TWP 100, Armstrong and Woodrich Timber Oil. Which one?
Also have post older posts and and facial boards that did not need replacing that I am gong to sand and stain. Same deck board stain ok? or a different brand for those? Thanks.
Same stain for all. Try the Armstrong Clark or TWP 100 series.
I’m in similar situation as Keith except I’m in NC. In the next couple weeks, I’m having new pressure treated pine floorboards and railings put in (but not posts and fascia). Unlike Keith, my deck doesn’t get much direct sun, though we do have heat and humidity.
By the time my deck weathers 2-3 months, it could get chilly here overnight. I had originally been thinking Armstrong Clark and taking my chances with temperature. In this Woodrich review, it sounds like I could get just as good results without the wait of AC and get deck stained before risk of low temps. Given Keith was asking about new wood too, I’m curious as to why you suggest AC/TWP rather than Woodrich.
Same or different recommendation for me?
Also, do Woodrich and AC require the same prep/prep time? If one would require less time/materials, it would be helpful to know. Since I’m planning to have the contractor do the staining, more time = more $.
Thx!
AC and TWP will last longer. Prep and materials use are about the same.
What are your thoughts on Defy brand for a dock?
Use the Defy Marine Sain for a dock. Works great.
Love the reviews but live in Canada. I was wondering if you are able to ship to us up here . Thanks Kevin
We do not ship products. Best to check online for dealers.
I live in Canada (Alberta) – long cold winters, nice summers. My deck faces west so I get hot intense sun afternoon till evening. I put on a grey stain from behr 2 years ago.. deck had seasoned for 2 years. This grey stain did not even last a winter and it was peeling by the following spring. I have now sanded all that peeling paint/stain off and I want to now go with the Timberoil stain – natural. Is that the best for my deck now…. I NEVER want to sand again! The wood on the stairs attached to the deck is treated wood about 8 years old. I’m only doing the deck and stairs…railings re not wood. thank you
Try Armstrong Clark Deck stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
used Thompsons Timber Oil on new pressure treated spruce decking last year. TTOil was so highly recommended. Applied it as directed and deck looked beautiful, was so proud. This spring deck was, in most places, as black as coal with mildew. I live in a relatively dry, very sandy soil area surrounded by agricultural fields. Not in a damp, swampy area at all, as mentioned, dry and well drained. Will have to pressure wash deck and restain but it will not be with TTOil. Very disappointed.
This review is not for Thompsons Timber Oil. In general, all Thompson deck stains and sealers are useless. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/?s=thompson
I have a very large redwood deck which was in need of some love. It had been 3 years since last refreshed. I previously used a product called Super Deck, was not impressed by the product. Through lots of research I decided to try Woodrich deep penetrating oil. I picked Brown Sugar and couldn’t be happier. The product is so easy to use, leaves no marks where you left off. Drys quickly and the results are stunning. Just ordered another 5 gallons for my new fence. Thank you Woodrich for such a wonderful product and excellent customer service. Happy Customer
We have large deck, lots of sun, lots of rain and humidity down south, pressure treated pine, dried for one year. Now we are ready to apply a seal. I like the woodrich option because I can reapply with out sanding. wondering how well it can handle the rain?
You always have to prep when reapplying. Use a deck cleaner and wood brightener. There are better options for a year old deck than the TimberOil and can be cleaned and they can be recoated with the need for sanding. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
“If you have a new deck then Timber Oil Brand would be our top choice.” Guess I get confused easily…is there that much difference between brand new and 1 year old? Many stain reviewers call up to one year new. Also, file under “picky picky” but think there’s a typo…do you mean withOUT the need for sanding? If you could expand on what a 1 year old deck needs compared to brand new that would be really helpful.
1 year old is not new anymore so not treated the same. 12 months old is substantially more absorbent compared to a brand new deck. Do not sand for prep.
Thanks so much for this site. It has been the most helpful and unbiased. It’s so hard to find a site that’s not actually an infomercial for one particular btand.
You are welcome!
I have a small year old deck made of pretreated pine. Which has never been sealed or painted. What should I use that would be better than Timber Oil? Looking for a Golden Honey with good UV protection and zero chance of peeling and black marks. Live in rainy Washington State. Thanks in advance for your help. Single mom, first time homeowner. Researched my brain is dead. Lol.
Try TWP 115 Honeytone. Make sure to clean and brighten the wood for prep.
Would you consider this the best for pressure treated pine also?
It will work for pressure-treated pine as well.
Hi there! Thanks so much for this website, I have learned so much!! I wanted to ask your opinion on something, I changed out all my deck boards from april to August with pressure treated pine in new York state. It’s been 2 months since the last deck board was put down and I wanted to ask if you would recommend I stain this weekend or wait until the spring. Water still beads on the deck boards, so I suspect they are not done weathering yet. I’m worried that the harsh winter will damage my deck.
Thanks again!
Just wait until Spring. One Winter will not harm the wood.
Got it! Thanks for the fast reply!!
My husband built our small 14′ x 9′ deck three months ago, using kiln-dried Alaskan yellow cedar. I checked with the wood supplier, and they said we can stain it immediately since kiln dried. The deck is under a tree and in constant shade. We are planning to use a cleaner and brightener and then apply one coat of the TimberOil. Is this a good idea? Or should we wait until next Spring and use a different product?
You can do it now since it has been 3 months.
Thanks so much for response! Would you recommend applying the TimberOil now, or waiting until Spring and using a different stain/brand?
Either would be fine.
I recently had a worn out PT deck resurfaced and re-railed using Selkirk KD cedar. It’s got SE exposure here in Minnesota, so lots of sun in summer and lots of snow in winter. I ordered the Timber Oil sample kit, but have not tried any yet. I’m contemplating between deciding on a Timber Oil stain and applying in a month or so, or waiting til late next spring/early summer (gotta let the snow melt), and going with something like TWP 100. Color preference is something dark golden, darker than honey but not all the way to brown. Would you recommend the former, to get something on before the onslaught of winter, or the latter, and wait to use a better product?
We would wait until Spring.
The boards on my deck are about eight years old. The semi stain that was used is almost all off now. I’ll be trying to remove the rest with the pressure washer and a remover. The wood has sort of grayed from age and being bare. Will this oil be suitable for it? If so, what shade should be used to get a brown tone?
Go with Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown instead: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
I applied penofin oil to an IPE deck about a year ago and not happy with the results. I’ve heard good things about the Woodrich brand Timber Oil. What do I need to do to switch products on the ipe wood? Thanks!!!
This stain is not going to work well for IPE. Use one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
Strip and brighten for prep.
The TimberOil (Woodsman) stain has been great on our ipe deck. The color has been long lasting, up to three years. The reapplication is relatively easy … does require wiping but it looks great
Is Austrarian Oil stain avalible in quart size ?
Sorry but no idea.
Does it come in a clear formula? My wife is allergic to the off-gassing of the red cedar in our sauna. Will this product seal the wood? If not, can you recommend something else?
It does not come in a clear. Try Defy Extreme Clear.
I have used the Cabot Timber Oil semi transparent Natural. My question is the stairs did not stain well, how can I redo these ? or should I wait until next year and clean and then stain again. From what I read I only have to clean with no sanding and then stain with the same stain. I just stained yesterday, so I guess I am wondering what my options are without ruining it.
Try leaving alone and clean and recoat in the Spring.
We have a new deck installed about a month ago using cedar wood. I am not aware that we are not supposed to sand it before applying stain as it will not penetrate into the wood. What should we do to fix it? Should we wait until spring to stain it? What brand and type of stain should you recommend us to use?
How fine if a grit did you sand?
have a 12 yr old mahogany deck just power washed has had 3 seperate coats over the yrs it is very blotchy used mahogany flame bfore will the blotchy areas show thruanother round of mahogany flame love the look no time to sand down any recommendation would be appreciated . should i do a solid color?
Strip it and brighten the wood. Apply Armstrong Clark in one of their hardwood colors. Do not use a solid stain on Mahogany wood.
strip it meaning sanding it?uestion or Post a Review…
Strip and or sand.
any particular stripper you recommend?Ask a Question or Post a Review…
Restore A Deck Stripper.
Just had a new cedar deck installed. Plan on waiting a month (NY) then staining. I’m guessing I will need to use a cleaner first? Is it ok to,use a regular brush and then a rag to apply or should I use a foam brush and then a rag?
The deck is about 700 square feet with about 40 linear feet of railing. Any guesstimate as to,how much stain I will need? If i get 10 gallons is there any chance the leftover will be good for a reapplication?
Use a cleaner and a wood brightener for the prep. Use a deck stain pad, not a foam pad. Better than a brush. No need for a rag. Only need one coat and 5-7 gallons should work.
I have a brand new cedar deck. Looks like you recommend Timberoil. Can I switch to TWP 1500 in a year or so. If so qwhat prepwork is needed
Yes. Strip and brighten for the prep when you switch.
I recently had my deck added-on to, the decking is Trex but the railings are cedar. I now have a combination of 8 year old cedar (previously stained with Cabot transparent) and new wood. If I strip and brighten the old wood can I stain with Timber oil or will the color difference between old and new be too glaring and I should instead use a solid stain?
We would go with the semi-transparent or semi-solid. It may be slightly off in color between new and old but will eventually blend.
I have new cedar for a new deck. The wood has been sitting, not installed, for several months. I want a penetrating semitransparent oil stain, but I want a medium grey/charcoal color, and that seems to somehow be a hard thing to find in a quality oil based and semitransparent stain. The best stains don’t come in grey shades. Does anyone know the best oil based stain that does come in a semitransparent oil stain, medium grey? I obviously don’t mind if it fades to grey, but I do want a richness to it, good protection, and expect to have to reapply, but I had heard of a stain that really—stained, that is to say, people actually complain led that the color wouldn’t come out. I’d consider that to be ideal. Why would you want the cooor to come out? Now I can’t find the name.
Thanks to anyone who has some input here.
Try Amrstorng Clark in Driftwood Gray or TWP 200 Series in Slate Gary.
Thank you! I appreciate the quick answer:)
I also noticed they appear to be the same company, AC and TWP, they have the same phone number. Again, thanks for the quick answer:)
No, they are not the same companies. You are looking at retailers sites, not the manufacturer.
Very informative site. Thank you! I have a new cedar topped deck structurally built for a spa to sit on it. My plan is to wait a month, apply the Timber Oil, then place the tub. Any particular issues or advice on this? Reapplication will obviously be around and not under the tub. Thanks.
Sounds good.
I would like to maintain the color of this rustic western red cedar sauna. I need UV protection. I do not want to change the color. Transparent penetrating stain with UV for this new wood would TimberOil be a good choice? We built it about 1 week ago. How long should I wait to protect the color? I don’t want it to gray. Also, I’m hoping to not have to use a deck clean product etc to prepare if at all possible.
Thanks!
It is not possible to protect from graying without changing the color. You MUST have tint in your staiu
Replacing rotted front porch ballasters and railing with PT pine. In SC, with high heat and humidity. The HOA requires a white finish. Could I use a stain or is it best to paint? If paint, then what primer?
Also, replacing deck boards on porch not white, natural, where the railing was rotted. So I have a mix of old and new decking. I would prefer leaving natural but getting a stain to a consistent look will be difficult. Is a colored stain best for a uniform look?
For a white, you will need a solid color stain, not a paint. Try Flood Solid Stains.
For the decking, see this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-blend-new-and-old-deck-boards/
We are currently installing a new deck and I am really worried because after only 4 days the first part of the deck that has been installed is already showing splitting on the top. The name of the wood is AC2 CedarTone Premium from Menards. We used screws to install but the splitting is all along the length of the boards. Should we stain it as soon as possible to stop the cracking or still wait. Please advise what product would be best. I do like the idea of a natural looking stain but splitting is why we got rid of the previous deck! We live in the Upper peninsula of Michigan deck gets afternoon sun, very humid and a ton of winter snow.
You have to wait and splitting is normal in wood. Staining will not prevent this. Nothing will. Part of having a deck.
I assume from everything I have read that a new deck should not be stained at least for a month or more depending on the satin ?
Yes, that is correct.
I have a new pressured treated deck and fence before I stain with Timber Oil stain what deck cleaner and wood brightner product should I use ? My contractor is wanting to stain soon and the fence has been up since February however the deck has just been completed a week ago.
Restore A Deck Wood Cleaner and Brightener.
Hello, we are finishing a deck renovation in Georgia. The decking has been down since late September. Painters are telling me it should be fine to stain now. I like everything I’ve read on your website about the timber oil. I just want to clarify that since this is a brand new deck we should only put one coat of stain on it at this point? Everyone keeps telling me two coats but that does not seem to be the best solution for a new deck. Can you please just confirm this? And, is it OK to use a brush to apply?
Just one coat this time. Make sure to clean and brighten the wood for the prep. Brush or stain pad applicator.
Thank you for your response. I was rereading your article again and now I’m debating whether the woodrich timber oil would be better or the Armstrong clark brand mentioned? The deck is new in the sense that it has not been treated with any stain yet, however the deck boards have been down for 5 months now. Would the timber oil still be your top pick or the Armstrong?
Thanks so much….your website is very informative!
Hi Megan, either would work well at this point. The AC will give slightly better UV protection if you use a semi-transparent color.
Hello, I am new here and have been reading articles and reviews, a little confused. I am installing a new Redwood Deck (as I type it is being constructed), I live in Central Point, OR. We have a good amount of rain and cooler temps, average highs 40-50 and lows can be 30’s or colder. We have a dry couple of weeks coming up but colder temps, I get good morning sun on deck till about noon, wanted to take advantage of dry wearther.
I was recommended and sold “SuperDeck transparent Natural” by the lumber store and no mention of any waiting period. Only instructions I have on the bucket say 40-95 degree install temps. But reading the reviews, SuperDeck doesn’t seem to be a great overall choice? I am wondering if I should return and get something else??? From what I read I do need to use a brightener prior to staining whether now or later.
I had planned on applying ASAP, but again reading articles I am rethinking, but would like to do something to protect (if needed) from our wet winter, not wanting to add color just preserve. I saw that the timber oil didn’t require as long of a waiting time, but details on using on new wood (Redwood) were not clear.
Thank you for your help, in my overall shopping experiences reviews can be as confusing as they can be helpful.
Shanda
Yes, you should return it. Best to wait for a period of time for the new wood to season. For the prep, you need both a deck cleaner and a wood brightener. Timber Oil can be applied about 1 month after the weathering and prep. It is tinted (not clear). You must have tint in your deck stain if you want to prevent UV graying.
I’m building two Adirondack chairs from Douglas Fir. Can I use Woodrich Timber Oil on furniture; sitting surfaces?
Thanks!
Yes, you should be fine.
We’ve just installed a new 400 sq ft cedar deck in central Vermont. Would we be better served by trying to finish with TO now, or wait through the fall, winter, and chilly spring until next year to apply TWP or AC?
This is a great site and super service. Thank you for all it takes to keep it running!
Either way would be fine. TO now after prep or wait and do it in the Spring.
I have a new deck made of 2×6 douglas fir spruce in Washington State. It is roughly 1800 sq. ft. And has full sun. The wood is non pressure treated. I want a natural finish. I understand the prep work but am unsure of the best stain to use for this application. Your advice would be appreciated. I am being told Sikkens, or Cabot. I understand this is an every 2 yr maintenance. Money is not an issue. I just want a beautiful deck when its all done. Thank you Mike
Using the TimberOil on new decks is a good idea. It is what we personally use on all new decks.
I am replacing deck boards with Siberian Larch decking. Can I use this stain right away? Live in Rhode Island and deck gets partial sun and mostly shade.
Wait about a month and prep with a deck cleaner and a wood brightener.
Can you use this on old wood?
Yes you can.
Hi,
I have a 4 year old western red cedar deck that was previously finished with Penofin. The covered area of deck still looks great minus normal wear. The portion that is not covered has an almost black appearance.
Im going to pressure wash and then sand all deck surfaces and rails and posts.
Will Timber Oil Brand work better than Penofin? We live in the PNW and I’m looking for a penetrator that will hold up for a longer period of time than Penofin and that won’t lose its color.
Thanks,
BC
Use a deck stain stripper will pressure wash and a wood brightener after. The Penofin “black” will come off much easier this way. Restore A Deck Stripper Kits work very well for this. TO Brand will not turn black like the Penofin does. Lasts about 2-3 years with minor fading.
No thanks on the stripper. As I said I’m sanding all surfaces. So that tells me that who ever answered my first question likely wants me to spend more money, unneccesaliy.
Waiting for sample of Timber oil.
Stripping is much easier then sanding and is the better way to prep. Opens the wood pores when stripping as opposed to clsoing the wood pores when sanding. Not trying to make you spend “more” money.
Just giving the proper advice based on many 1000s of deck restoration jobs over 20+ years.
I have a brand new Alaskan Cedar deck going down, I live in Portland, Oregon, so we have months of rain and damp conditions.
I just tried a Behr product from Home Depot, it did not absorb consistently, pooling in some areas, so I’m just using this for the underneath. Granted I have not used a cleaner on the wood, and it has not weathered any, so do not know if this would have made a difference or not.
What is the recommended stain to use? I’m reading this article and looking at the Wood-Rich Timber oil. The company who sold me the wood are recommending Penofin.
Anyone experience with new Alaskan Cedar in a wet climate?
The Penofin has a tendency to turn black. We would not suggest it. There are reviews on this website about the issues with Penofin. The Woodrich Timber Oil will work. You do have to prep the wood.
We have installed pine boards on the deck floor. The deck has a covering roof, but the 2 ends are open. We are thinking of using SuperDeck stain on the deck. What do you think?
Super Deck has a tendency to turn black on decks. We are not fans of the brand.
How does Timberoil work on older decks?
It works well for both new and older decks.
HAVE DECK SEVERAL YEARS….ORIGINAL STAIN PEELED VERY BADLY…..JUST FLIPPED BOARDS
AND SCREWED DOWN. SOME OF THE BOARDS HAD A BAD CASE OF MOLD ON SURFACE. WILL A
CLEANER REMOVE THE MOLD?
The Restore A Deck Kits and pressure washing will work.
Just applied 2nd coat in 3 &1/2 years. Very easy to apply. Cedar was allowed to weather for 1 year prior to first application. Cleaned and brightened and then applied stain. 2nd coat going on just after cleaning. Plan on repeating every 2-3 years. Very happy with results!
Looks really good!
Looks very sharp! Please tell me what color stain you selected.
That looks like Warm Honey Gold.
Need a recommendation – I have a 400-500 sq ft 20 yr old deck that we flipped the boards and they look really very good (in spite of being in the Houston area), then expanded the deck with new treated pine and replaced a few unsalvageable old boards. I'm going to pressure wash, clean and brighten the entire deck and posts. I intend to sell the house so need to finish the project pretty quick.
Q1 – Will the timber oil finished look be fairly similar between the old and new boards?
Q2 – I can wait about 2 weeks before staining – will that be ok?
This may be a re-post since perhaps I didn't post the first time correctly.
Thanks for any help.
New and old wood will look slightly different when using a semi-transparent stain. You can wait 2 weeks but you will need to prep with a deck cleaner and a wood brightener.
Hello! I would like to stain a new (3month old) redwood deck with a semitransparent stain that will give a rich brown color and not look reddish. Has anyone used the Brown Sugar color on redwood, and if so, does the final color have the effect I am looking for? Thanks!
The Brown Sugar is not a rich brown but more of a medium brown with some cedar highlights. No red.
Yes please this is a new ramp for a wheel chair/walker, PT wood, only one week old. Would stain make this slippery when it is wet??
This is a penetrating stain so not prone to being slippery when wet.
Could you recommend a good brand of deck cleaner and brightener ?
Restore A Deck cleaning kits.
How can I remove mold on a newly stained & sealed red cedar decking ?
It is nearly impossible to just remove the mold without having some kind of effect on the stain. Try soapy water and a very soft push broom.
Where can I buy timber oil stain in North Carolina?
No idea, contact the manufacturer for help with this.
In the picture above for this review, were all components(bridge, etc) that we see stained with this product, or just the deck platform?
All.
I installed new cedar deck Aug 2015. I then used RAD cleaner and brighter and applied 1 coat of Woodrich TimberOil in late Sept.
Do I need to apply another coat of Woodrich TimberOil in 2016? If yes, should I wait at least 12 months?
Also would I need to use RAD cleaner and brighter again or would a light cleanup such as water and brush be sufficient?
Only apply if needed. Light wash to remove dirt and reapply one coat. If not needed, wait until next year.
How should I determine if it's needed? Is it simply a matter of seeing if water beads up?
Also how would you suggest I do a light wash? Should I just use water and a gentle scrub with a brush?
Thank you.
It really is a visual and water beading or not does not determine. If it still looks good, then leave it alone for now.
Installing new cedar deck in Northern MN and plan to use timber oil on it per most peoples recommendations. When I go to "re-stain" in a year or two should I keep using timber oil even though TWP seems to be a top choice? and if I do want to switch to TWP do I need to strip the timber oil off?
Up to you. You can use the same or prep with a Restore A deck kit and use the TWP.
I have a new cedar deck that will be completed this week. I plan on using TO as soon as possible – 3 weeks. I noticed in your review you waited three weeks and the only prep was a light cleaning to remove dirt. In the comments you recommended doing a cleaning and brightening to someone in the same situation as myself. I guess I'm just confused – do I need to do a full clean and brighten or can I just do a light cleaning like you did for the review? Great blog btw – thanks for all the great info!
Full clean and brighten to remove the mill glaze is best.
If I use timber oil to stain my deck. Do I need to use a clear sealer over the top? Or does the timber oil count for that?
It is a sealer and a stain. You cannot apply anything on top of it.
How many coats did you apply? We just finished a 700 sq. ft. deck 2 weeks ago. It is No. 2 prime kiln dried lumber. Is it okay to strain with this product in 2 weeks?
Just one coat on new wood. You can apply now to your wood type.
Okay. So, for a new deck you would recommend this or Armstrong-Clark? According to your article on new decks, AC suggests waiting 4 months before cleaning and brightening then staining. I am looking for something durable that hopefully you don't have to redo every year and they both seem to do that. Will probably be going with a darker brown color that is transparent as we want to see the grain. Semi-transparent hold up better I know but my wife doesn't think you will see had much grain. 🙂
The first time you stain new wood it only lasts 12-18 months. After that you will get 2 years with either the AC or TimberOil. You can stain new woods sooner with the TO (about a month) then you can with the AC (about 3 months). Semi-trans show all the grain and do not mask the wood.
Okay. Man you guys are great. How does the semi solid do with showing the grain? I thinks it's only offered in the AC but provides even better protection right? I noted that you said the semi trans would probably fade faster than the semi solid on the AC test deck so would that make it comparable to the TO semi trans? I think I'm starting to lean more toward the AC over the TO the more I read. You can't use one then use the other the next time without doing a bunch of work can you? Seems like the AC has more "additives" (that I can tell from both websites) than the TO to help with protection and longevity or is that not the case? I have ordered the sample kit from Woolrich which will save me $15 on a future purchase but if it took 6 gallons of TO compared to 2.5 of AC on your test decks (mine is 700 sf), might not be worth saving the money.
Hi Barry,
Semi-solids show little grain but some. Brands will differ. See this for a better explanation:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stains/
Both products are easily removable with a stain stripper and pressure washing if you want to switch. No harder then cleaning the wood for the prep.
The AC does seem to have more to it. Coverage for 1 coat of AC on 700 Sq. feet with a semi solid would be more like 4 gallons. More if you have railings and steps on top of this sq. footage.
Sorry, another question.. I just learned the contractor used TWP 1530-natural on my new cedar deck. I don't love the orangey color. The next time I stain, can I power wash and brighten, then switch to Woodrich Tiber Oil "Western Redwood", or does all of the current color need to be completely stripped/sanded off so it's bare wood? thanks
It would be best to remove all of the old stain first.
I have a deck built with IPE Hardwood. Does your product work & how long should it retain the fresh look? Do you ship 2 gallons to a carton. Austin Tx area.
John, this is not our product. We would suggest the Armstrong Clark Hardwood Stain or the Defy Hardwood stain for IPE.
I've been pleased with this TO. I've got 2 cedar decks: 1 for our business (1 year old) and 2nd is at home (2.25 yrs old). I've used this timber oil on both of them, I'm currently applying it for the 1st time on the 1 yr old deck.
My question would be, what should be next? Do I continue to use the TO, or at some point do I switch to a stain from same company? The older of the 2 decks had its 1st application applied about a month or 2 after install, and then a 2nd application 1 year ago.
I'm cleaning the decks well before application with sodium carbonate (Oxiclean generic). Thanks for the help.
If you are happy with it then stay with it. It is easy to apply and maintain down the road.
Thank you. I am really ignorant to these things…. how often should TO be reapplied if using a quality product like Wood-Rich Brand?
Every 2 years would be normal.
Where can i buy this timber oil ??
Online most likely.
Any experience with the Woodrich hardwood stain? Newly installed deck floor (one month); kiln dried Garapa. Was hoping to use Armstrong Clark in Amber but is turning a little too "orange" for my taste on the Garapa wood. Tested Woodrich Brown Sugar and like it much better but concerned that it will fade quicker on hardwood. Any advice would be appreciated?
Yes we have used it before. It lasts okay for hardwoods. At most you will get about 1 year on a hardwood deck floor.
Thanks! So I'm reading between the lines and thinking it should last just as long as any other hardwood stain as one year seems to be the rule of thumb. I was a little concerned since you rated their regular stains at a 5 on UV graying.
Best is about one year. Some stains will last 3-6 months on hardwood decking. I would say that you will get somewhere between 6-12 months with the Woodrich Wiping stain.
We are in Georgia and having a pressure treated pine deck and porch being built which should be completed in a week or two. The floor on the porch is tongue & groove (will be screened in with EZBreeze vinyl windows). Exterior side deck will get a ton of afternoon sun. If we wanted to stain by early December, is our best option TO for both the porch and deck floor? Should the tongue & groove flooring be cleaned with wood brightener too (before staining)? Is there any wait time needed for priming and painting the rest of the porch with acrylic paint? Thanks!!
Yes the TO would be your best option and make sure to clean and brighten for the prep. As for the paint application, that depends on the brand you are planning on using as if you need to wait or how long. I would see what their directions say.
Hi, I am a first time home owner and I don't have a deck, but what I do have is a brand new cedar fence. Is there any reason this will not work the same on a fence? I am sorry to ask here on a deck website, but this product seems to be exactly what I am looking for to treat and preserve my new fence. I am just so lost in a haze of oil, latex, solid, semi-transparent, clear, acrylic, alkyd, and a hundred other words you can use to describe stain that I really just need to find something already. So again I apologize if this is not the place to ask, but any advice would be greatly appreciated!
You can use the same for fences and the good news is that deck stains on fences will last 2-3 times longer then on a deck. Use a penetrating semi-trans stain like Defy Extreme or the TWP.
Thank you! You don't then suggest the TImberOil? I don't plan on giving it a lot of time to weather and according to the "Staining a new deck" article I read on this site, it suggested that the TimberOil would be best for new cedar.
Timber Oil works well too. It does penetrate newer cedar better and sooner then other brands.
Hi I'm in sort of the same situation with new western red cedar engineered siding. Was leNing toward the TWP, but I'm nervous about the wait for weathering as I don't want any weathered look, what did you end up using on your fence? Did you weather it before staining?
Thanks!
We always weather and it is not a big deal. After the weathering you will need to prep and the at process will remove any dirt, oxidation, etc.
Hi, would you recommend Wood-Tux by the same brand (Woodrich)? It says it's the same as Timber Oil (though more expensive) but can be applied to a wet surface? This would be for a two-month-old treated pine deck. Am asking because there doesn't seem to be a single day without any rain, let a alone a stretch of 2 to 3 days. If you recommend sticking with Timber Oil, how much dry time would the deck need without rain to be safe after the stain is applied? Also, for new decks, do you consider Timber Oil better than Armstrong Clark (which I see you also recommend)? Many thanks
Stay with the TO. Wood Tux will not penetrate the same and is a very different formula. After applying it can take a rain within 12-24 hours. Both the AC and TO are about the same.
You cannot lighten a stain. It will lighten on its own though and should be a shade lighter in a week or two.
I applied Timber Oil ( Brown sugar color ) 36 hours ago using a brush . It was applied to new cedar deck board. ( I gave the new deck board a rinse with garden hose 24 hours previous ). The stain is basically dry now but when i wipe across it with my fingers i get an oily film on them still. The weather is cool however . Approx temp 60 in the day and down near 35 at night. Do i just need some more drying time or did i do something wrong in the application procedure ? Thanks in advance.
Did you wait a month after install and clean and brighten for the prep? It will dry so let it sit for now.
The review on this site says the only prepping they did was a light cleaning so that is what i did with the garden hose to remove the loose dirt. The water did not bead or sit on top of the deck boards whatsoever so i read that mill glaze would not be an issue in that case.
Light cleaning is not rinsing with a garden hose. You should use a deck cleaner and wood brightener if you have new wood as there always is mill glaze on new deck boards.
My cedar deck is now at the 2 year mark. I stained the deck initially 2 months after building it, and then again 1 year later. So i left 2 of the questions asking about 2 year issues blank since the stain o my deck is only one year old now.
I do remember noticing last year the stain was starting to wear off in the high traffic lane before re-staining. Now close to one year before staining again I do not see any of those issues. i may stain just the vertical boards again this Summer but it doesn't really appear that I need to.
My main reason in selecting this stain was the ease of application, and thre recommendation for using on new decks. I am very happy with it, very easy to prep to application of this product. I have been using the color called "Brown Sugar" and we do like the look of it. I am very happy with it and will likely continue with this product, eventually if the appearance starts to go I will move to their darkest stain color.
Hello Everyone.
I am facing (siding) my building with Clear Red Cedar. I am want a very modern look and want to enhance the color of the cedar without staining. It is facing east so it gets half sun everyday. What would everyone recommend on an Oil or clear stain that will enhance the color but also seal/protect the wood from graying. I am in Los Angeles, CA and was hoping for something I could find locally.
Someone locally mentions Safecoat Penetrating oil.
But I am not sure.
Please help!
Thanks
Enhancing the color and staining is the same thing. True clears will not enhance or give any UV protection form oxidation and graying. Look at Armstrong Clark in one of the light tones: Natural, Cedar tone, or Redwood Tone.
Thank you for you reply. Armstrong Clark is only available online I believe. For this type of siding would leaving it up a week and then staining it be OK? Would I need any special prep? I was hoping to stain it right away.
Are any of the over the counter solutions decent? Cabot, Sikkens, or Penofin?
AC is made in Cali. Might want to call them for help finding it or buy online. You always need to prep new wood and new wood should season for a few months after install before staining. You are very restricted in LA due to VOC laws there so AC or TWP 1500 is your best option.
Hi folks (sorry if this post is a duplicate; still trying to figure out the comments section). Thanks so much for all the great info. I'm six weeks in on a project to reclaim a 10-year-old pressure-treated pine deck that was nearly ruined with a Behr acrylic stain. (I'm in Maryland; hot, humid summers, moderately cold winters, deck is half in direct sun, half shaded.) I pressure washed it, stripped it (RAD stripper with follow-up scrubbing with a soft wire brush), and still had a ton of sanding to do. Finally got down to bare wood (pretty dry, some cracking, but I don't see much serious decay) and used a brightener/neutralizer.
The deck is an irregular shape, about 650-700 sq. ft., and I bought 5 gal. of the Timber Oil. Sprayed on a heavy saturating coat and barely had enough to cover the horizontal surfaces. It looks great, but the bare wood drank the stain like a dry sponge. I only had to back-brush a couple a very small areas. Now I've got a few questions:
1. How would I know if I should add another coat on the horizontals? This deck has been neglected but it looks like it's still got some life left in it. I want to give it a fighting chance.
2. What's the shelf life like for the Timber Oil? Can I order another 5 gal., use enough to finish the uprights (and another coat on the horizontals, if you think that's a good idea) and save the rest for a maintenance coat next year?
3. Now that I've started with the Timber Oil, should I stay with it? With longevity in mind, should I switch to something with a bit more staying power? The Timber Oil is so easy to apply, I certainly don't mind adding a maintenance coat once every 12-18 mos. if that will be enough.
Thanks for any input, and thanks again for all the great info on this site. This has been a long reclamation project, and I'm sure without the info here I would have made some mistakes and made it even longer.
1. Sounds like you could use another but wait until Spring of next year and lightly wash off dirt and apply another coat then.
2. If lid is closed it will be fine for a couple of years. Do not let it freeze either.
3. By all means stay with it if you like it and do not reapplying a light coat every 1-2 years.
Sounds good. Thanks for the quick response and again, for all the great info. Hugely helpful.
Welcome!
Welcome!
Thanks again, your recommendations so far have been spot-on!
I cleaned and brightened my new cedar deck two days ago (I couldn't have anticipated how good it looks!) and now rain is due to begin. I've called Woodrich but not heard back from their customer support team and my question is, how dry does the wood need to be before applying the stain? The instructions state to wait two days to stain following the cleaning and brightening so I assume that it's the same for staining following a rain. Do you concur?
Yes two days after a heavy rain. Once day if just a light rain.
I'm a bit confused. You've stated that you would apply one coat if less than a month old, but other times you state to not apply stain for at least a month. I'm going to be building a cedar fence and would like to stain the boards on one side before installation (due to posts and obstructions on the outside of our property) then coat the other side afterwards. Is okay to do with the Timber Oil?
To be certain you should let weather a month if smooth wood. Fences are usually rough sawn so you do not need to wait. You can prestain if rough sawn.
I can not find the Woodrich Timber Oil Brand Stain online anywhere only the Cabot Australian?
Try contacting the manufacturer for help.
I am withdrawing my prior question as on re-reading it seems you clearly recommend cleaning & brightening all new cedar decks before staining. I will follow this recommendation.
It sounds like you tested TO on a new cedar deck without using a cleaning and brightening process… ("Note: We tested the TimberOil Brand on a new cedar deck three weeks after installation. Only prepping was a light cleaning to remove the dirt.") Is this your recommendation for a new cedar deck or do you suggest following the cleaning/brightening process? Thanks for your reply.
Thanks for your most valuable website!
I installed a new red cedar deck two weeks ago and understand that I can use Timber Oil stain in another two weeks after cleaning and brightening the wood. I live in western Oregon and the weather should stay fairly warm during the days and cool at night with likely some rain showing up. How soon after cleaning and brightening do you recommend applying Timber Oil?
About 2 days after the prep you can apply the TO.
Thank you, I really appreciate your experience and guidance on this important matter!
I think I read in the comments that the Woodrich Timber Oil can only be purchased online. Is this correct or do retailers such as Home Depot and Lowes carry it?
Not sold in bog Box stores but online mostly. Might want to check with manufacturer for locations?
We used the Timer Oil stain on our deck after reading all the great reviews, it went on fantastic and looked wonderful until you actually walk on it. It shows every footprint and paw print to the point you actually don't see the stain. Can a second coat be applied or what would help? It was applied to a deck that was built last Fall so the wood was not old or rotted.
Any suggestions would be great!
Patty
Never had this issue persoanlly. Did you use the Timber Oil made by Woodrich? Applying more would probably not help.
We used the Cabot Australian Timber Oil , just at a loss at what to do to try and correct it
This review is not for the Cabot Australian Timber Oil. The Cabot ATO is a completely different product. You probably need to strip it all off and start over with a different brand that cures properly.
They just finished a second level 600 sq ft treated lumber deck with 2 sets of stairs. They said not to stain it until next summer or even better fall. I'm concerned about the winter weather we have. (Northern Wisconsin) Should I wait and let the deck dry? or stain later this fall to protect for the winter. How would I prep the deck for staining this year vs staining next summer/fall. I'm 65 so the easier the better.
With the Timber Oil you can stain in a month after prepping with a deck cleaner and wood brightener.
My question is along the same lines as this one. We are building a deck in early November so most likely won't be able to get the staining done before winter sets in. Is waiting til spring in a Minnesota winter too long to wait to clean/brighten and stain the wood? It is already on the cooler side here, 50 during the day, 30's at night.
We would wait at this point. It will be fine.
I just completed a western red cedar deck (11/16/2016) should I treat now or wait until spring. I live in Denver, Co.
At this point, just wait until Spring.
We built a new pressure treated pine deck last late summer. We wanted to stain before winter due to PA's wild winters so due to recommendations on here we bought this product (Timber Oil,brown sugar) to stain the deck so we could do it in the fall but due to a very chilly and wet fall we never applied the stain. We cleaned and prepped our deck the past week and have started to stain the railings and may I say "IT LOOKS FABULOUS AND GOES ON SO SMOOTH!!" We bought the product from the manufactures website, and it was a very smooth transactions. They answered all my questions promptly.
Great website! I will complete phase two of my cedar deck/gazebo in July August. I built phase 1 last Summer and left it to weather. I want to stain/seal the entire deck in September. I was thinking TimberOil. Your thoughts.
Yes that would work but personally we would use the Armstrong Clark since it will be over a year old.
My concern is that the new portion will only be a few weeks old. Would you still go with Armstrong Clark?
Yes
We built a new pressure treated pine deck last late summer. We wanted to stain before winter due to PA's wild winters so due to recommendations on here we bought this product (Timber Oil,brown sugar) to stain the deck so we could do it in the fall but due to a very chilly and wet fall we never applied the stain. We cleaned and prepped our deck the past week and have started to stain the railings and may I say "IT LOOKS FABULOUS AND GOES ON SO SMOOTH!!"
Now my question is, the rating on this stain seems to be based on it being used for new wood. But how is it going to be for a permeant product. It says there is graying after 2 years. Is this product really not meant for regular staining of a deck. Since I had to wait till the next year I am having (despite it looking great) a little buyers remorse that I didn't just wait and buy TWP or Armstrong that seems to be a more longterm stain product. Will I need to restain with Timber Oil every year to maintain the stunning look I have right now? And when I do go to reapply do I have to strip it or sand the whole deck or just pressure wash with water and reapply? Also do I apply just 1 coat or should be go back and apply a second coat to achieve more longevity or would a second coat just be overkill.
Bottom line for anyone wondering if this stain looks great and goes on easy. The answer is a resounding YES. My questions are mostly what is to come?
Thanks in Advance for your Answers and Comments 🙂 Thanks for all your hard work! If it wasn't for this site I would have bought some Big Box Junk….LOL
Just so you know, TWP and AC will need to be redone every 2-3 years. TO will give a little less UV protection and thusly requires reapplication sooner but it is easier to apply. Just clean and recoat. If you get two years out of the TO, than stick with it as it is very easy to reapply. Just use a deck cleaner and recoat.
Hi,
I have a two week old cedar fence and would like to use Timber Oil. Two questions 1) Is there any reason that this (or any) stain will perform differently on fences than it does on decks and 2) How "old" can the fence be before I should start looking at a stain other than Timber Oil.
Thanks!
Thomas, smooth wood on the fence or rough? Timber Oil can be applied to new wood virtually right away. Stains always perform better on vertical wood.
Just built a PT Southern Pine deck (Home Depot WeatherShield 5/4 in. x 6 in. x 12 ft. Pressure-Treated Standard Decking Board). Completed the last week of July 2013. We were waiting to stain it (as that is advised by most sites/companies) but have seen some minor drying/cracking. We thinking we are now ready to treat it before the cold fall/winter start to set in. The deck gets full sun exposure from about 11am to 5pm. Is TimberOil Brand the best bet for me and what should I do to prep? Oh, it is in Baltimore, MD (we get the full array of weather; rain, snow, ice, heat, cold). Thanks!
Adam, TimberOil works great on new wood and is what we would use. Prep with a clean and wood brightener.
We just installed a tongue and groove kiln dried yellow porch floor boards to replace a 100 year old tongue boards and would like to stain them darker. We dropped drops of water to test absorption and observed that some sank in while others beaded on the surface. What stain would you recommend for best penetration, paraffin or a water based stain for a semi transparent appearance and one or two coats wet on wet. This is a covered porch with sun and blow in rain exposure about three feet from the edge. A brand recommendation would be appreciated also. Thanks
Harry, if you want to stain now then the TimberOil would be your best bet for penetration into the new wood. One coat should be fine now.
We had 2 redwood decks installed in late July and are thinking of applying stain or timber oil. Is it necessary to stain the underside of the deck? We have 2 decks on the 2nd and 3rd floors and the underside is visible from each floor below. Is staining the underside cosmetic or does it provide needed sealing?
James, no need to stain the underside unless for cosmetic purposes.
John, https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I just finished our new cedar deck, about 1000 square feet, plus all the railings and spindles. I cleaned with a sodium percarbonate product and let it dry a couple of days. Now, I just got done applying the Timber Oil Honey Gold, all with a brush (It looks beautiful). Application went great… but all told, I only used 3 gallons. It spread nicely, but I just can't believe how little stain I used. Should I apply a 2nd coat now, since I have the product, or is this what I should expect from new cedar? Or clean again next summer and apply a maintenance coat? Thank you.
MN Tom, I would suggest applying a light coat in the Spring.
I received a confirmation of my order but the order never arrived. Their Customer service phone number is dead, no response to e-mails yet. Not very impressed with this company.
Pete, sorry to hear that.
In 2 replies you said not to stain all 6 sides of the wood before or during installation of a new deck. But how in the world am I supposed to stain the cut ends AFTER they've been covered by fascia boards, or butted together, etc.? No matter how tightly they're screwed together, eventually the wood will shrink and water will penetrate those areas.
NYHomeOwner, there is no need to seal the ends and stains/sealers will not stop water 100% anyhow.
Can you mix Timber Oil colors…? Has anyone done it before and were either pleased or disappointed with the results?
We have never mixed them but I do not see why you could not. We have mixed other oil based stains with great results
Thanks. The sample kit was from the SealerStore. Can you advise me if the SealerStore TimberOil brand is the same as Woodrich's Timberoil? The SealerStore logo is eerily similar as well as their color stain selection and word for word description of the product. The Canadian distributor ran out of the Woodrich product and Woodrich support is lacking in response to emails or calls.
Was just informed by a spokesperson for Woodrich that they are in fact the same stain. Woodrich is the manufacturer.
Sorry…I have more questions since my previous comment. My red cedar deck will be completed in about 3 weeks. All told, the cedar will be anywhere from 6-8 weeks old from the time of delivery from the lumber yard. Do I need to wait any longer before staining the deck or can I do it as soon as they complete it?
Travis, wait at least a month or two then prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener.
The picture of the deck shown in this review looks like the color is really red. I assume the cedar used was the typical red cedar. Can you confirm that the color of the oil used was Honey Gold? If I didn't want such a red color but wanted something more than just "natural" color, which color of this brand would you recommend? Maybe the Brown Sugar?
Travis, this was the Honey Gold. There is not a lighter tone. Brown Sugar is a brownish cedar color.
We are using new cedar decking and plan to use Woodrich timber oil…. we have been told it is good to apply on all six sides. Do you recommend we do this before installing?
Marilyn, there is no reason to or benefit by treating all 6 sides.
We are thinking of having our deck built out of cedar. The deck is partially sunny in the mornings and then shade for just a little in early afternoon on the end of our deck. It faces North. I am worried that cedar may not be the best choice for installing due to the moisture and shade. Would you be able to advise on which wood should be used in this area? I have done research on wood but have not found any concrete answers to this question. We have had just pressure treated pine for the last 16 years and it is very soft and rotten! Thank you for your time, this is a great site!!! I am from Canada, so I hope you won't mind me asking.
Linda, we personally like cedar better then pressure treated pine.