TWP 100 Pro Series Stain Review
TWP Stain Reviews
This is Our 1st Review of TWP 100 Series Stain. Our second review was completed in 2018. Please see here: TWP 100 Stain Review
- TWP 100 Pro Series scored an overall 8.81 out of 10 after two years of real-world testing on an 800-square-foot pine pool deck.
- The stain showed zero peeling after two years, retained 80% of its original color, and lightened naturally without darkening from UV or mold.
- At $0.18 per square foot for two coats, TWP 100 is one of the most cost-effective oil-based deck stains available.
- TWP 100 offers top-rated mold, mildew, and algae resistance, with zero spore growth found on the test deck after two years.
- TWP 100 Pro Series is only available in 36 states; homeowners in remaining states should consider the TWP 1500 Series as a comparable alternative.
Important Note for TWP 100 Series: There has been a label change for the TWP 100 Series. New labels now say TWP 100 Pro Series. Same product, performance, and colors.
TWP 100 Series Wood and Deck Preservatives have been manufactured for over 25 years while proving to be one of the best products on the market. TWP 100 Series is a 550 VOC compliant wood stain that is available currently in 36 states. Composed of natural and synthetic oils, TWP 100 Series will provide ample protection from snow, rain, and UV radiation.
TWP 100 Series has been rated #1 by Consumer magazine.
TWP Stain – 100 Series Rating
TWP 100 Series Wood Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8.5
– We tested the 101 Cedartone color for the pool deck. The semi-transparent color was a traditional cedar color, slightly orange/yellow. The stain had no issues penetrating into the wood completely and did not mask the wood grain.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– The TWP 100 Stain retained 80% of the original color after 2 years of weathering.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8.5
– TWP 100 exhibited zero peeling of the stain after 2 years. Slight wearing around the stairs where the wood butted up to the pool. This area was slightly more faded as well. Possibly from the chlorine in the pool.
TWP 100 Series
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– We paid $139.99 for the 5-gallon pail of TWP 101 Stain. We used all 5 gallons for the 800-foot pool deck. We applied two coats to the wood. The cost to stain with TWP 100 Series was $.18 per foot for 2 coats of stain.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9
– TWP offers the best resistance to mold and mildew for an oil-based wood preservative. No mold, mildew or algae spores were present on the wood decking.
Ease of Application: 9.5
– TWP is easily applied. We applied two coats to the flooring using an 18″ wide stain applicator. The first coat took us about 30 minutes to cover 800 feet. The second coat took only 20 minutes as the TWP 100 applied at a better spread rate. Overall the 800 square feet were covered in under an hour and applied evenly with no puddling.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
– TWP 100 lightens in color after 2 years. No darkening from UV or mold.
The Difficulty of Reapplication: 9
– TWP 100 Pro Series offers deep penetration with no darkening of the stain. Reapplication will be easy without the need for stripping off the two-year-old stain. Cleaning to remove some dirt and grime would be enough to prep for another coat.
Overall Score TWP 100 Series at 2 Year Period: 8.81
– TWP for good reason gets one of our top overall scores. It is too bad that this product is not available in all 50 states but the TWP 1500 Series performed nearly the same in our test results and can be obtained in all states. If you are looking for a great stain that is economical as well, then the TWP 100 Series should be considered.
Product Information:
TWP Help? Search Google: TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 100 Stain
TWP Stain Facebook Page: TWP Deck and Wood Stains
Cost: $41.99 per Gallon, $209.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based Wood preservative
Available Colors: 100 Clear, 101 Cedartone, 102 Redwood, 115 Honeytone, 116 Rustic, 120 Pecan, 105 Cape Cod Gray, 106 Prarie Gray
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 2-8 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 550 Compliant in 36 States
More Info: Product Data
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pine
Deck Square Footage: 800
UV Exposure: Full Sun Pool Deck
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: 101 Cedartone
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
TWP 100 Series Stain Photos
TWP 100 Pro-Series Review Video
Applying TWP in Dark Oak to Wood Fence.
https://youtu.be/xH6RnzN4M-c
Hi there. A few questions… I had my new deck and screen screen porch stained 2 weeks ago with TWP series 100 cedartone. The new wood was left to dry about 8 months prior to staining.
1. No, it did not harm the TWP. Leave as is.
2. You would have to strip and brighten to switch. You cannot just apply over the current coating as it will not penetrate the wood, thus drying on top of the wood. That creates issues.
3. Yes, only one coat for new wood.
Which is better for a brand new pool deck? The TWP pro series 1500 or 100 series?
Where do you live? You cannot stain new wood right away: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Live in Kansas, Just did a re-work of my deck using treated pine how long should I wait before I apply the stain.
Thanks
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I did a reapply of twp on cedar siding exposed to severe weather conditions in Florida after the cleaning process 2 coats on problem areas and one coat on less exposed areas it has some shinny spot where it didn’t penetrate the wood as much wouldn’t it be better to leave those areas instead of wiping it of with the mineral spirits to keep the product on to protect the wood better in this environment?
Wiping off would only remove the excess that was unable to soak in. It would not alter or reduce the life of the stain.
I’m in the process of having a Patio cover and pool cabana built. The post for the cover and outside of the cabana will be rough cedar. Is the TWP 100 stain a good option for this aplication or should I look into something else?
Yes it would work well.
Can wpt stain be applied to epay wood decking as a post 10 years application in Seattle wa. I used twp 101 for the the original application and will use the same. What preparation do i need to do before i apply the next application?
Clean and brighten for prep and then use the TWP in Rustic for IPE.
I stained my deck with TWP 100 last fall and now i kind of feel its not as vibrant as it was during last fall.. is that expected? and also i missed to sand before the stain and now every time i run my hand over the deck top i get a splinter or two in to my hand.. can any thing be done without having to restain?
TWP is a penetrating stain that soaks fully into the wood. It is normal to lightly fade (not peel) over the years before a reapplication is needed. Just leave as is and do a maintenance coat next year.
THANKS. What about the splinters.. is ther any way to fix wothout restaining them
Sorry but no.
Hi. We live in Georgia and trying to decide what to do about a new porch which faces South with a lot of sun (picture included).
We originally thought we would paint railings white and stain the cedar ceiling, corbels and gable. Now that we see the cedar railing, I think I’ve changed my mind as the wood itself is beautiful.
TWP 200 has been recommended by the contractor; however, he did not mention that the wood might need to age. Some of the wood seems rough and some smooth.
Couple of questions:
Would you recommend TWP 200 Butternut (as the door is stained a dark walnut) or prefer a TWP 100 or even an Armstrong product?
Would you still recommend to allow it all to age 4 – 12 months before staining?
Is there anything else I might be missing while considering staining everything as it pertains to direct sunlight?
Thank you in advance!
Yes you will need to age this for 4-12 months and prep after with the Gemini Restore Kit. Use the TWP 100 Series in Dark Oak if looking at a color similar to the door.
I want to slightly lighten the two 100 dark oak. Can I add clear and mix the two to achieved a lighter stain without adding any concern?
Yes, you can mix the TWP colors. We do it all the time.
Is there any advantage in using 1500 TWP over 100 series for new Cedar Fence 6 mos. old?
No not really.
Any thoughts on how twp 100 or 1500 will work on redwood? Testing was performed on pine.
No issues with using TWP on redwood.
I just re-coated after 3 years in MN using TWP100; almost 2000 ft2 of redwood decking. I used Wolman Deck & Fence Brightener Wood Cleaner and Coating Prep and power washed off before the re-coat (3 days drying) using a 40 degree nozzle (white). The reason using the Wolman product was to deeply clean/brighten the areas under roof cover, which were in great shape and I wanted the whole deck surface consistent in stain appearance. I just needed to clean some areas with mineral spirits after staining to remove the shinning stain where it didn’t soak in under the areas of roof cover where the original coat was still good.
The decking looks like the original coat after the re-coat. I love TWP100 and the Wolman (no sodium hypochlorite) made the cleaned decking look new. 2022 will be my next re-coat.
My re-coat was one applied coat using a deck staining pad and long pole to back brush where the stain wouldn’t completely soak in.
Hi, I have a ~12 year old 600 sq ft Mahogany deck. It has probably had 5~7 coats of Sikkens deck stain on it over the years. The last coat is now peeling off at a rapid rate and I am about to have it sanded. I am thinking about using the TWP 100 (redwood) stain. Is there any additional prep work I need to do besides the sanding?
Also, there is a large built in bench around 2 sides of the deck. Stripping the vertical pieces will be tricky. Do they need to be completely stripped down to the bare wood for the TWP to stick and look reasonably similar to what is there?
How to I figure out if I will need one or two coats?
Thanks, Jeff
All the Sikkens will need to be removed. Sand and then clean and brighten for final prep. Two coats wet on wet since it is an older deck and all previous coatings will be removed.
Hi, what do you mean “wet on wet”?
Thanks!
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stain-instructions-for-wet-on-wet/
I purchased TWP 1500 oil stain based on your ratings and recommendations for removal of prior transparent stain, (Behr), which peeled in many areas after 1 year. I used Restore A Deck cleaner and brighter. Our 600 sq.ft cedar deck was 20 years old and some boards needed replacement. Since new wood doesn’t absorb stain the same as the older wood. and review of many of others with similar experience in your Q&A area, I applied only one coat, not wanting to over apply the oil on adjacent new and old cedar wood. Based in TWP recommendations and the TWP calculator, I purchased 6 gallons of the TWP 1500., but used only 3 gallons since I did not apply the second coat. The deck came out beautifully. It looks great but now I have an excess of stain .I am very pleased with the results and would recommend TWP 1500 oil to anyone.
Can the excess TWP 1500 be used for my next treatment, probably in two years ? If so,, should I store it in the original 5 gallon shipping container ( with 2 gallons remaining) or should I transfer it to smaller gallon metal or plastic containers? I have 1 gallon remaining in the TWP original container.
Thank you for your helpful recommendations on preparation and stain. I look forward to your response.
The TWP shelf life is 12 months if opened, 2-3 years if unopened. It would be best to store the excess from the 5-gallon in smaller containers so the lid will close fully.
Thank for the information regarding shelf life and storage. Can either plastic or metal cans be used for storage?
Since my 600sf cedar deck had a mix of 20 year old and about 10 % new boards I applied one coat of TWP1500, since the mix of cedar boards would absorb stain at different rates.
Should I apply a second coat after 1 year ( after cleaning )
Is brightner also required ?
Is it preferable to wait to until the first coat begins to wear or fade before cleaning and reapplying TWP 1500 with the recommended wet on wet 2 coat process?
Probably metal cans is best. You can do another coat next year if needed or the year after if it looks okay. Clean and brighten for prep.
Hi,
I have an 11 month old cedar deck. Our house is set in the woods and surrounded by 40′ + trees. We get no direct sun in the morning, but a fair amount of afternoon sun. All of the railing you see is replaned western redwood(?) from the original deck which was built in 1970.
Our contractor hand sealed all of our decking and railing with Olympic clear 3 year. As you can see it is coming off quickly.
Note: The single board that is darker I brush coated with Olympic 6 year semi transparent in the redwood tone. I am liking the darker look and think it matches better with the railing.
Any suggestion on a redwood tone stain that I can put on the decking that will compliment the railing?
Thanks for your help,
Ben
Look at the Cedartone or Pecan color in the TWP.
Hi, I am building western red cedar outdoor furniture. What steps and products should I use?
TWP cannot be applied to new wood right away. They want 4-12 months of weathering outdoors and you will need to prep with their Gemini Restore Kit.
Does anyone know if tint can be added to the series 100 clear? I would like to have cedartone.
No you cannot add tints to the TWP clear.
Hi, I am a new customer. Have a deck that was stain with a oil base stain. Want to try your product, how to I prep before I apply your product. This also has been added to so I understand the color will be darker, looking at going with a dark oak stain. Currently a dark brown on the old part. Next what is the difference between the 100 and 1500 series. Also, I have a 200 ft fence installed last fall and want to apply a natural clear coat, want to leave the greyish look, do I have to prep it before spray the fence. and how much would I need to order for 200 feet on the outside 6 foot high. I would need to double the stain to do both inside and out?
If you have an old stain on the deck, you should remove it first. How depends on the type and brand. Many can be stripper and pressure washed off and then brightened. Once prepped, look at the TWP Dark Oak. For the fence, you will need to prep with a deck cleaner and a wood brightener. Use the TWP in Clear. It will gray naturally while protecting the wood. Yes you have to double the amount for both sides of the fence. You have 2400 total sq. feet. About 20 Gallons of the TWP Clear and two coats applied.
Please get back too me. Because sikkins.faded way to fast
I do not see a question?
3 year old deck is ready for a new coat of stain. Should I use the same brand, or would it be ok to use the TWP brand?? If so, what kind of prep work should I do??
If switching brands you should remove by stripping or sanding. Brighten the wood after.
new yellow cedar decking…how long should it sit before cleaning & staining with TWP 100 ?
If I have vapor barrier-on ground and decking is 16" above, is it necessary to stain underneath board? (2X6" decking.)
Where can I get twp 100 stain in Tacoma/ Seattle area, western Washington.?
TWP wants 4-12 months and prep with their Gemini Restore Kit before staining. Just one coat as well for new wood. No need to stain undersides.
Where can I get twp stain in Seattle/ Tacoma area, western Washington.?
Mike, order online or contact manufacturer for help in finding a location near you.
ACE hardware can order it for you. I have used the TWP116 with great results. It is special ordered and comes 4 gallons to a box.
I am installing a new cedar (kiln dried) pergola in Maryland. All rough cut boards. I want to prevent graying. In years to come, removal of stain from a 3 layer, 12 ft high 14×20 pergola will be very difficult (topmost layer is 2x4s on 10 inch centers). Is there a product I can apply with a sprayer after applying a cleaning product such that I don't have to go in and hand stain every board? I am not even sure it would be possible to do that.
You can spray on the TWP but you will need to back brush to catch drip drips and to make sure it applies uniformly.
Where can I buy TWP in. Houston, Texas?
Has any one had trouble with the T.W.P. treated deck being slippery when wet?
We never had as it is a penetrating stain when applied correctly. I suppose if you over applied the TWP it could be somewhat slippery.
followed the directions to a "T" on a brand new C60 ft. Cedar deck. It did not make it thru the winter. The stain pealed off. My friend used it also and the same thing happened. Everywhere we walked the stain came off :'(
SG, TWP is a penetrating deck stain. If it peeled then it never penetrated and that is a result of over applying, improper prep, or combination of both. If it soaks in then it does not peel. For new wood TWP wants you to wait 4-12 months and clean and brighten for prep. Also they suggest just one coat the first year and they suggest to apply another coat the second year when dealing with new wood. New wood is not absorbent and the reasons I mentioned is most likely why it had an issue.
Greetings, I just re-stained my pine deck after stripping all the old finish off, treating with brightener etc. I read that I needed to be careful to not over apply the stain, so I ended up just doing one coat. I hit a few other places with a bit more, but as far as I can tell the color is good and I am happy with the outcome. It did not look like it needed more. However, since I did not do a second coat, did I under apply the stain? I used a bit over 3 gallons on a mainly horizontal ground deck (not elevated) that had two sections, 15×23 and 16×22 respectively. I bought 8 gallons thinking I would need that much plus some for maintenance. I applied with the small 6" pad you sell. If I did under apply, is it too late to do a second coat (it has been 3 days, and it would not been done until at least 2 more, and there has been some very light drizzle one morning), or should I just wait to see how it is next summer? Thanks!
Leave alone and apply a light coat next Spring if needed. Better this way as it may not take another coat now.
I'm a single mom in the Dallas-Ft. Worth area so my apologies in advance for the many questions. I bought a new home about 10 months ago in a new subdivision so am dealing with new construction/healthy wood. I'm considering staining my side of the yard wood fence since I believe the wood is now “old enough” but am unsure as to the benefit since the subdivision lots are small and I share the fence with a neighbor on the east side and a different neighbor on the west side….and these neighbors probably won't stain their sides of the fence.
Question 1) Is there a benefit to me years later in terms of seeing a beautiful fence on my side should I choose to stain the yard fence visible on my property while my neighbor(s) neglect staining their sides?
Question 2) My fence looks great now but I'm honestly unsure as to what if anything the builder has already treated the wood with. Assuming I do treat the fence on my side, should I just clean the wood first and then stain because my gut leads me to believe the builder hasn’t treated the wood?
Question 3) I'm uncertain as to what to clean my fence with before beginning this project. Any suggestions?
Questions 4) Its seems that TWP 100 is an option for purchase today in TX but I'm confused as to if I should go with TWP 100 (seems to be better per the discussion/reviews below so I'm leaning on going this route) or TWP 1500 and what later challenges I'll have wrt future staining assuming TX later outlaws the sale of TWP 100… Would I be able to stain my fence in the future with any retail brand oil-based stain or would TWP 1500 be an option if my initial stain today is TWP 100?
Questions 5) Would stripping be later required to go from TWP 100 in 2015 to TWP 1500 or to a retail oil-based brand 3 or 4 years later?
Questions 6) Am I correct to assume a 2-coat stain with TWP 100 will last 3 or 4 years on average in the state of TX considering our hot summers?
Questions 7) What recommendations do you have to protect home siding paint?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!
1. Depends on the UV exposure. best to do all sides so might want to ask them. It will definitely look better on your side.
2. You would know if it was treated previously by seeing if there is color added. Doubt the builder did anything. Always prep before staining.
3. Restore A Deck Kits and light pressure washing.
4. You can use the 1500 over the 100. If you switch brands then you have no choice but to strip and remove first.
5. Yes if switching brands.
6. Yes on vertical wood.
7. No idea on the paint
No, it (the color) will not last more than a year when exposed to rain and sun! I have used 1500 series to stain a new, 1 year aged (without stain), pressure treated wood, prewashed, let dry, applied 2 coats within 30 min, the color all faded next summer. You have been warned! Not worth the extra cost. Many reviews are bogus or not from folks whom have had actually experience longer than after applying. I bought and used TWP based on reviews, the actually product is anything but like the reviews. Use at your own risk if price and labor is of no concern. You'd have to re-stain yearly, major PITA!
Simon, sorry it did not work to your expectations. We use TWP on our customers decks on average of about 400 decks a year and for the past 10+ years. They all get 2-3 years of protection and does not need to be done every year. The only exception is new wood and we tell our customers that this is normal and they will need to apply alight coat after the first year on new wood. This is due to the wood, not the TWP. Thanks
The key for best results is proper prep-work. When we purchased our home it came with a beautiful yard but the 400 ft (2400 sq ft) of cedar fence was dark grey almost black that looked very bad in such a beautiful yard. I had never power washed wood before and as recommended I power washed w/3200 psi 25 deg tip and the results looked like new when completed. I did not feel the need to strip or brighten. Used pump sprayer & 15 gal of twp 101 and the appearance is better then new and is just as beautiful as the yard landscaping. What a huge difference. Always being asked what I used to achieve such great results. Looks very close to day of staining after 2 yrs. highly recommend TWP 100, by far the most bang for your buck.
I am sanding some tongue and groove clear western red cedar that we installed a couple years ago under a porch. As this is the ceiling, it is not exposed to the sun or water. I had to sand it to get some old CWF clear searler off after a major leak. I live in the Texas hill country west of Austin. I used to use CWF over the years but it doesn't seem to be the same product.
I thought about putting a marine polyurethane on the cedar but I like the more natural look of a clear sealer. The wood is multi-tone so I don't want a stain. What would you recommend?
Try the TWP 100 Clear. No tint and will work well.
Just finished sanding a solid color stain off a 2 yr. old salt treated deck in full sun, in East TN. Do I still need to use RAD cleaner/brightener? As well, I have narrowed my next stain down to the TWP 100 or Armstrong Semi-trans Grey. Which will do the best job protecting against UV degradation and preserving the wood which is already cracked severely.
Yes on the final prep of the cleaner and brightener. Either of those products will work well. We do like the AC gray better then the TWP.
Stain three different colors. Bought five gallons of rustic TWP 100. Didn't even cover with one coat my 375 sq ft deck. Applied with a 3 inch brush. Three different colors even after following all instructions. The restore cleaner and brightener worked great but the rustic TWP 100 gave dark brown, reddish, and fire engine red in color. Looks horrible. Called customer service and the representative said "what's my question and do I want to order more to finish?" I said what about the three different colors? He responded with "that is irrelevant and would you like to place a order or not?"
TWP Rustic is a reddish color with a hint of brown. TWP stains are semi-transparent which means they will highlight the natural color tones of your wood. If it came out 3 different colors then your wood enhanced it that way if you applied it evenly as you described. It is not the stains fault for this. This is normal for any stain brand that is a semi-transparent. Feel free to post a picture in our forum if you would like more of an opinion on the appearance.
I have a nine month old pressure treated pine deck that has never been painted, stained, etc…. What do I need to do to prep it or can I just stained. It has greyed only slightly.
Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit and stain with the TWP. The kit will remove the mill glaze and restore the color.
Does TWP 100 come in a Gray color and is there a retail outlet in the Niagara NY area?
TWP 100 Series is not allowed in the NY area. The 1500 Series is allowed there but does not come in a gray color.
WHO SELLS THIS PRODUCT IN COLORADO. THANKS
Is TWP 100 series available in Charlotte, NC. If so, where?
Also, how does a water -based stain/sealant compare to oil for a new pine treated-wood deck?
I would contact the manufacturer for help with locating stains. Did you read this about new wood?: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Where can I get twp stain in Seattle area, western Washington.?
Contact them for help.
If I were to refinish a deck in Texas with TWP 100, would I be able to restain with TWP 1000 (or something else) in future years without stripping it in the event Texas decides to outlaw TWP 100?
You can recoat it with the same 100 or the VOC compliant 1500. Not other brands of stain.
We had peeling, mildewy solid color stain on our 5 year old deck so we have sanded the entire deck and are planning to restain with TWP 100 Cedartone. Do I need to wait any time to apply the stain or can I proceed when we get a few dry days?
You will need to prep after the sanding to help the TWP to absorb deeper. Use their Gemini Restore Kit.
I've purchased and assembled a Western Red Cedar Adirondack Chair set from Tofino Cedar Furniture Co. in Canada. They recommend [for people wishing to treat ("unnecessary")] a Sikkens product not available in California. When searching on line I found the TWP-1500 was very highly rated and the TWP-100 even higher. My questions are 1) Is it necessary to "age" the product 1st? (According to Tofino web-site they "only use Wood from naturally fallen trees (storms) and branches and logs left and recovered from others Lumber operations….." does this count as aged? 2) Which TWP product 1500 or 100 is best suited to the intense UV environment of Southern California?
In CA you are only to use the TWP 1500. TWP does want you to let new wood weather in the elements for 4-12 months. Also needs to be prepped before application. If your wood is smooth then you will need to let it sit out in the sun as they suggest and prep.
New Georgia deck. Cedar and cypress. Applied TWP 100 Pecan to both after they aged about three weeks. Looks great on the cedar, not so good on the cypress. The builders rushed me because they wanted it stained before the screens are installed. I wish I could lighten the cypress… Is there an easy way to do this? More impotently, I'm afraid that they messed up my ceiling (which has sky lights) – I asked for clear TWP, but they applied Cabot 1400 clear instead. Please tell me that I can apply TWP cedertone or honey over the Cabot clear?? They just applied it and now I realize that it will probably turn gray within the year. What should I do?
You cannot lighten a stain color but you can strip it off and start over. You cannot apply TWP over top of Cabot or any other stain. Being that it is a ceiling with no direct sunlight, it will not gray in a year. It could take several years to gray or longer. BTW, TWP wants you to wait 4-12 months and prep first before staining new wood. Not 3 weeks.
Thank you for the quick reply. Very much appreciated. The pecan color has evened out nicely so all that's left to do now is the floor, which is pine. We're waiting until Spring, when the temperatures are warmer but I wanted to know if you can apply TWP 1500 or 200 over an older coat of TWP 100-series without stripping first? If not, can you apply TWP 100 over an older coat of TWP 100 without a problem? Thank you again!
You can apply 1500 (or 100) over the 100 as long as you use a deck cleaner and light pressure wash first. We would not use the 200 over the 100. The 200 is a very different product and you may have some drying issues.
Thanks – last question.. Which type of deck cleaner would you recommend in this scenario?
I would use the Gemini Restore A Deck Cleaner.
Located in Georgia
Brand new refurbished deck (less than 2 weeks old)
Boards are Cypress, hand rails are Cedar
Should I let the wood cure before staining, if so how long? Getting conflicting advice from contractors.
What stain do you recommend for Cypress?
What is the difference between TWP 100 & 200?
Thanks
Yes on weathering in our opinion and always best to follow the advice of the stain brand manufacturer, not the contractors. 200 Series is for shakes and shingles while the 100 is for decks.
Hello:
I have a small 8 by 10 deck here in NJ which is about 14 years old, stained by acrylic bm yellow about 11 year ago and since then it was stained with a clear Thompson sealer twice which covered only the areas where acrylic gave in…
Overall it looked pathetic…and needed much help ground up.
I used wolman stripper for acrylic and stripped the deck down 90% prior to that washed it with a oxyclean n bleach mixture lastly power washed it using turbo nozzle. I finally sanded it down so that 99.5% of the acrylic is removed.
I have not used a brighter – deck has not seen rain in 4 days and is ready be stained..for which I need advice, I am confused between defy, twp and Armstrong clark…
It southeast facing and gets lots of sun..is also exposed to snow during dec thru march
Please advice what will serve my needs best.
Thx in advance for your time and reply…sincerely Ron
Hello, first of all, this is a great site!
I live in Toronto, Canada where they have also applied the low VOC law. I have a 5 year old cedar deck. I did not seal it right away after construction (big mistake). It greyed and got dirty over a period of 3-4 years. Last year, I tried to sand all of the fibers that have built up over the years. I then used a deck cleaner/brightener. Following that, I used the Benjamin Moore Arborcoat waterborne translucent deck stain. After the winter, I found that 2/3 of my deck has peeled off. What a massive waste of time and money. I was extremely disappointed and frustrated.
I need some help from the experts! What should I do? I want something that will last and that I can trust.
Question 1: From your past experience with other Canadians, do you know any products available in Canada that are good?
Question 2: If answer is No to question 1, then I'll need to order a product in the U.S and ship it to buffalo for pickup. What do you recommend that I do to strip, clean and re-stain? Any help and advice is greatly appreciated!
Question 3: Sanding was a huge job, can I avoid sanding?
Thanks,
Alan
1. Sorry but not really. Does not seem anything decent is found in Canadian stores.
2. You cannot strip the Arborcoat. It will need to be sanded. Once removed you will need to clean and brighten the wood. If picking up in the US then look at the Armstrong Clark in a semi solid color.
3. No
Thank you for your reply! Much appreciated. Here are a few follow up questions if you don't mind 🙂
1. Can I get away with a Canadian sold product for the cleaner and brightener? or does this play a very big factor into the staining process as well?
2. I used a hand sander last time and it took a very long time. Do you recommend renting a bigger unit from a big box store (if that exists) and what coarseness do you recommend for a cedar deck?
3. Why do you recommend Armstrong Clark over TWP? Just to confirm, I am looking at a non low VOC product, if I'm able to get it shipped and pick it up
4. Can you explain why you would recommend a semi solid color? I've used translucent on the railings and I love how it brings out and enhances the natural color of the cedar.
1. Probably but stay away from bleach based cleaners.
2. We use 60-80 grit for the paper. Large sanders will speed up the process.
3. TWP is not allowed in Canada.
4. Semi-solids will give better UV protection for this.
I have a 20 year old mahogany deck that we have sanded clean and beautiful. I want to apply a clear sealer that will haelp to maintain the natural color of the wood and can be reapplied WITHOUT stripping. What would you recommend?
You need a color in the sealer/stain if you want to prevent UV graying. Look at the TWP 115 Honeytone or for a richer look, the 116 Rustic.
We live in Lawton, OK, temperatures can get extreme here but we applied TWP 100 Cedartone to our 20×20 deck in the middle of April. temperatures from then until July have been well below normal. The deck was 18 months old at the time and was pressure treated, according manufactures specs this was a seasoned deck, nonetheless we sanded the entire surface, was smooth and clean before application of two "wet" coats. drying time was very fast, next day patio was ready for furniture. It came out beautiful, very nice shine to it, deep color, absolutely outstanding. for about 3 weeks.After that the shine is complete gone, very dull looking. We are extremely disappointed with this product, after looking online there is no warranty associated with the stain. In my opinion this stain is a complete failure, to have less than a month of newness is ridiculous, would NOT recommend using this stain at all.
Dean, TWP is not supposed to be shiny at all. It is a penetrating oil based stain that is supposed to a flat appearance. No high quality decking stain will be shiny as that will create a huge peeling mess. Your expectation for the TWP and stains itself are incorrect for being shiny.
Hi!
I purchased a 12 year old home 4 years ago (western NC) with a 2nd story back covered deck (8X40). This year, the center part of the deck still looked nice but the parts which received the most sun had very little color and the water didn't bead up. I used SW Deckscape stripper & revive products then a final power washing because I wasn't sure what was previously used on the deck (wood grain showing but a 'honey' color – the wood is probably pressure treated pine from Lowes). I am a DIY newbe. There are places where the wood looks 'furry' – maybe too much pressure washing / scrubbing with the nylon brush? I noticed you don't recommend sanding but should I sand under these circumstances? If I do have to sand, would it be enough to use a leaf blower to remove dust?
I am 60 so In the future I would like to complete regular maintenance that would let me treat one half of the deck and then the other half of the deck so I wouldn't have to move everything into the yard for a week or more and I wouldn't have to cover everything below deck and in the yard because of harsh chemicals. Can you recommend a semi-transparent stain and a proper maintenance schedule?
Thank you for your help!
You can sand with 60 grit to remove the furring. Use a light pressure washing after to rinse off the dust and open grain of the wood for better stain penetration. Use the TWP 100 Series and maintain every 2-3 years or as needed.
Thank you for the response!
Since coatings on my deck deteriorate at different rates, will it be a problem to re-coat areas that are still beading up? I don't mind washing and re-coating, it is just having to clean/wash/brighten/wash/dry/re-coat that seems overwhelming.
Yes it might not penetrate or dry properly for those areas that are still beading.
Can I wipe up product that doesn't soak in? possibly with a cloth soaked in turpentine?
Yes but make sure to saturate rags with water when done to avoid spontaneous combustion.
Thank you so much for the help!
Hi there,
We just installed a new Western Cedar deck and were wondering what prep. is required prior to staining and what type of stain you could recommend out of the ones we have available here in Edmonton, Alberta (Canada). We get cold winters with lots of snow and warm summers with low humidity. The deck is east facing so it gets a lot of sun during the day but is in full shade in the evenings.
I hear TWP and Armstrong are really good brands for deck stains, unfortunately neither is available here. I have seen the following sold here: Wood Pride by Dulux, Behr, Sikkens, Cabot, Benajmin Moore, C-I-L, and Olympic.
We would prefer a stain that allows more of the wood grain to show through to one that also doesn't require too much maintenance (if possible).
Thanks for any help you can give us.
Of the ones you can find locally use the Olympic but only if it is oil based.
We live in Illinois and have a cedar deck that is about 12 years old. We previously used Sikkens on it and have never been happy with how it holds up (peeling & fading) causing us to have to redo every few years. My husband used a cleaner on it and pressure washed but there are some areas on floor where Sikkens did not come off and the railings still have Sikkens on them. What would we have to do to remove the rest of the Sikkens from the floor and railings before applying the TWP product? Thanks for your help!
You would need a deck stain stripper and pressure washing to remove. You may need to do this a few times as Sikkens can be difficult to get off. Apply wood brightener when done.
Very little solid stain remains hopefully will remove residue with cleaner/brightner application and pressure wash. Any thoughts? Also why TWP 100 over TWP 1500 product?
Clyde, cleaners do not remove solid stains. Stripper may a little but they also in general do not remove solid stains. You cannot cover a solid with TWP so get all of it off if you can. 100 is better at penetrating.
OKC area 1200 sqft deck of which 900 is new smooth pt pine & remaining 300 is 15 yr old previously solid stain pt pine.
Allowing new decking to weather possibly until spring and will clean/brighten all areas prior to stain application.
Wanting to use TWP stain products which is based on all available product reviews. Which TWP product will best suit my situation?
TWP 100 Series bit you cannot apply the TWP on your solid stain. You would need to remove that by sanding.
Live in Pa, Have a deck that is 3 yrs. old, never been stained or weather proofed. Where should I start and what to use?
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kits and stain with TWP 1500 as the 100 is not allowed in PA.
Hello:
I have a small 8 by 10 deck here in NJ which is about 14 years old, stained by acrylic bm yellow about 11 year ago and since then it was stained with a clear Thompson sealer twice which covered only the areas where acrylic gave in…
Overall it looked pathetic…and needed much help ground up.
I used wolman stripper for acrylic and stripped the deck down 90% prior to that washed it with a oxyclean n bleach mixture lastly power washed it using turbo nozzle. I finally sanded it down so that 99.5% of the acrylic is removed.
I have not used a brighter – deck has not seen rain in 4 days and is ready be stained..for which I need advice, I am confused between defy, twp and Armstrong clark…
It southeast facing and gets lots of sun..is also exposed to snow during dec thru march I think its pressure treated pine wood boards
Please advice what will serve my needs best.
Thx in advance for your time and reply…sincerely Ron
Ron San, for this I would go with the Armstrong Clark as it penetrates the best. You should brighten the wood.
Thank you for a days turn around on this, truly appreciate your time n commitment to responding user queries. I shall update with the outcome, I will surely use a brighter before staining.
I notice there is no mention of Wolman F&P not DuraStain on this site – how does that stand up to its performance – I have it available locally hence asking over AClark which has to be shipped. Kindly advice your take on Wolman F&P
Wolman used to make a great stain but they changed the formula for the FP and it is not the same nor as good.
So here is the final update, with all the hide n seek play with mother nature, I stained with Armstrong Clark Cedar Semi T – had it shipped not sold here in NJ , end result AWESOME, rich beautiful color, spreads well and super east clean up. I rolled it with smoothing out with a brush. lessons learned, PREP PREP PREP – 14 year old deck stained initially with Bher Acrylic (ouch) some corporal yellow, then 2 applications of Thompson water sealers all this over 14 years, nut shell it was in bad bad shape so deck now faced Cleaning with Oxi Clean/bleach/detergent home solution, Power Washed, (Wolman) Acrylic Stripper power wash (2 times – turbo nozzle [be careful]), sanded all down (60 Grit) Orbital & Oscillating, Brighter (Wolman – Oxalic Acid) w/light fan tip power wash – MADE A HUGE DIFFERENCE THANKS TO THE SUGGESTION MADE HERE – absorption increased, Filled all cracks n screw holes with DAP oil stainable plastic filler putty (home depot) meticulously sanded to get grain matching as much as possible, tighten all nails and rails, Brighter (yes one last time) w/light fan tip power wash – DRY DRY DRY – finally stain applied in 4 hours DONE!!! There was min 3 days of dry time given between each procedure!
One Bloch – 6 days of bright sun – perfect time to stain right!!! – Nay REMEMBER THOSE SPRINKLERS – THEY STARTED up right in middle of staining – buckets w/stone on top came to rescue! – I thought that was funny!
Last question – Is there anything that can be done on the underside of the deck mine’s raise about 6ft from ground – should something be done underneath – or leave it to weather’s mercy!!?
Thank you very much for all the advice for a novice like me who took up staining the first time ever!
Just leave the underside alone. Glad it turned out great for you!
I just purchased TWP based on the reviews here. I will be using it to stain my deck. Waiting for the weather to cooperate. I plan on using a brush for railings and spindles and roller for the floor boards. Do I have to follow the wet on wet rule? Whats the best way to stain my deck?
Ben, please read: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stain-instructi…
Hi,
First of all, congratulation for your website its awesome and thanks for answering its really helpfull.
I live in Montreal, Canada I have a house with pessure treated cedar wood siding board (made by 'Goodfellowinc'). Its 20 years old, generaly in good shape but blackened due to UV. I never applided any product but now I would like to clean the wood and applided a product. Should I use TWP 100 or 1500 and what product should I use to clean the wood?
Thanks for you help.
PS : Sorry for my bad english!
Olivier, neither TWP products are allowed in Canada due to your laws. I would strong consider the Armstrong Clark of this as it is a great stain for older and dried out wood. Prep first with the Restore A Deck products.
Thanks for you answer. And if for an unknow reason I would have TWP 100 and 1500, what would be the best product to apply?
Thank you for your time.
Either works very well.
Hello,
5 year old mahogany deck originally stained with Penofin Brazilian Hardwood oil stain. Live in Northeast and deck faces North so part shade & part sun, in winter subject to standing snow and ice despite shoveling. Cleaned, sometimes sanded, and re-stained annually. Switched to Sikkens 2 years ago due to change in Penofin formula on recommendation from Benjamin Moore representative. For two consecutive years the Sikkens stain fades by Feb/March so not particularly impressed with this product either. Recommendations for cleaning v stripping v brightening and TWP stain product.
James, use the Restore A Deck Stripper to remove the Sikkens and neutralize with brightener when done. Your wood type requires annual coatings. Only the 1500 is allowed in the North East part of the country.
We live in MN and have harsh winters. Our deck is rather large and gets a lot of sun exposure in the summer and snow in the winter along with wear and tear from our large dogs. It is old cedar decking and at this point, it looks gray because the stain has wore off except the spindles. Since being in the house for 6 years, we have stained it twice with Pittsburgh Ultra semi-transparent stains and it lasted about a year each time. The 2nd time I even used a deck stripper to really make sure I did everything right. I used a cleaner and applied it during a 65 degree day. I am frustrated because of the labor it takes and the cost for the materials. Is there a better product that I would have access to around here that would withstand the heat and snow pile up? I work at a retail store that sells Cabot and Pittsburgh but am willing to go outside of there to get a long lasting product. Any advice on a better stain or tips on what I can do better would be helpful.
any advice? I was just assessing the deck again today and have a rather large job on my hands. There is about 715 sq of floor boards plus 175 spindles, hand rail, steps and lots of lattice. I don't even know how to estimate all of that out.
ana, we responded to your previous question already. It was on this article: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-is-the-best-dec…
We had a 30 by16 deck built last aug with a roof over it . will that make any difference as to what kind of stain to use. We waited over winter for wood to dry out .. will clean & prep before staining . We live in Missouri. Any suggestions.THANKS
Denny, it will not make a difference on the stain to use but it does mean that the stain will last longer :). Use the TWP 100 Series. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit.
Staining a pressure treated pine deck and Boat Dock, both have weathered for a year. Im in Tampa, FL on the water and I think Ive decided on using TWP 100 to tackle both jobs. I am having trouble deciding on a color as its hard to tell from your swatches. Is there some pictures of finished projects I could view? I don't want too much of an orange or red hue and I believe I read the lighter colors wear off easier. I would probably be deciding between Cedar, Pecan or maybe even Dark Oak. Any advice?
Mark, the manufacturer will send you samples to test.
So theres no examples I could view. I would like to order today if possible. Maybe you could tell me your impression of those colors I mentioned. Is one more popular?
Cedar is orangy. Pecan is a brownish orange. Dark Oak is dark brown. Color varies though on your wood type and the age of your wood. Newer wood is typically lighter in color as it is less absorbent for the stain.
Crystal, I would use the TWP 100 Series for this.
Hi I have built a new ceder home rough ceder I wanted the best uv protection I purchased 25 gal dark oak to get started did I make the right choice and would two coats be best twp 100
Thank you charley
Charles, if rough wood I would apply the 2 coats lightly \”wet on wet\” since the wood is new. TWP 103 is a great stain.
I am in Houston, and have a large treated lumber deck that we have stained with oil base every couple of years. The deck is gray again, and for all practical purposes does not look like it has any stain on it. I have never had an issue layering on new stains. Is it necessary to do any prep besides cleaning (to use TWP)?
Bob, I would at least use the Gemini Restore Kit.
Can I mix a TWP100 rustic with a cedartone to make it darker?
Stan, yes you can mix TWP colors together.
I live in middle Georgia and have a 1-year old pressure treated pine deck I plan to seal for the first time this fall. It is in full sun all day and the humidity is very high in summer. A review of your replies to people in Georgia seems to show a preference for Armstrong over TWP. Which should I use?
Sandy, either would work well for you in Georgia.
I was wondering if you could explain the difference between TWP100 and 1500. I have a cedar-sided house in British Columbia-hot, dry summers and very wet, humid, cold winters. Currently experiencing some mold on the siding and greying on one side of the house. Which product do you think would be best. House is about 16 years old.
Karen, TWP from what the manufacturer stated, is not compliant for Canada and cannot be sold or used there.
I live on long island. Applied TWP honeytone to a 35 year old redwood deck in great condition. Used a conditioner and brightener. Applied the stain Sunday evening . The deck had mist on it in the am and we had rain Monday and Tuesday despite the forecast of partly sunny both days. Now notice when I slide deck chairs they leave a light color trail as though it's pulling color off. Any suggestions. Maybe has to dry more. Can I wipe on some TWP to cover the marks?
Thanks
Jerry, sounds like it has not cured properly. Let it dry some more. Hard to touch up marks or spots.
I live in TX and have a new fence (2 months old) rough sawn cedar. From all the reviews it seems like TWP 100 or 1500 would be a good choice. Do you agree? Some of the fence is in full sun and some is partial sun. Are there going to be any issues with boards bowing if I only stain/seal my side of the fence? Also given that it's new and rough sawn are there different ways it should be sealed? 1 coat vs 2? Cleaning or no cleaning?
Thanks!
Ali, if the wood is rough and clean you can stain right away. Do all sides and I would suggest the TWP 1500 for maximum protection. Two light coats wet on wet.
I live in Western Pennsylvania and have a redwood deck which looks awful! I have pressure washed it, stained it with Behr stain (Yuk) and waterproofed it. Every footprint and every mark sticks to the deck and after scrubbing with a hard brush, the stains never go away. I want to try TWP if I can find it in my area. How do I go about stripping the old stain and where do I go from there? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Hazel, behr is not easy to strip. You will need a stripper like HD80 or Restore A Deck Stripper. Apply stripper, pressure washer, repeat as needed, brighten when done.
I am in Minnesota and i just finished building a new cedar deck. It is partial shade. I have had the lumber sitting under a 4 seasons porch for over a month before it was built, and i plan to wait a few weeks before i stain it. From everything i have read here it sounds like i should go with the TWP 100 for a stain, is that the best fit? Will i need to use a cleaner prior to staining or can i just sweep it off and start?
Nate, please read this article on Staining New Decks
My decks have Behr stain (ugh) that is peeling, bare wood showing after 2 years. How do I strip it before applying TWP?
Jim, not easy to strip. Try Restore A Deck Stripper or HD80. Repeat as needed until it comes off. Make sure to brighten the wood when done.
I am having a new deck built with select red fir as I can't afford redwood or cedar. Is TWP100 the product to use? I plan on staining my boards before deck is built. Help!
Lydia, please read this article: Staining New Decks
I have a seven year old untreated ( no stain, no color) standard wood deck. What would be the proper way to prepare my deck for staining and what products do you recommend?
Angie, use the Gemini Restore Kit to get the wood clean and back to it\’s normal color. Once this is done you can apply the TWP.
I was reading the comments about the Restore-a-Deck and Brightener Kit. What's the difference between the Gemini and Restore-a-Deck? My deck has not been treated, stain or paint ever by the previous owners. We bought this house a year ago and we had to replace some of the old wood and make it structurally sound. We added cedar wood to the top of the rail only. The rest of the deck is grayish, moldy some peeling and cracks. Don't I have to clean it and brightener after? Do you recommend TWP 100 or 1500? Georgia, full sun until 5-6pm. Thank you for your previous answer.
Angie, you cannot remove paint with the Restore A Deck Kits. You will need to sand. You can use them for removing the gray and mold though. TWP cannot be applied on top of a paint. No difference between the kits.
Here in Oregon we can legally purchase the TWP 100. So I'm not sure if I should go for the 100 or their 1500? Any advice?
Can TWP cedatone be applied with garden pump sprayer? I have 348 spindles around my pool deck that I can't get a brush in between.
Jim, yes you can spray TWP with a pump sprayer.
Yeah, I am also using TWP 100 Wood Stain for my old furniture because it is really effective and perfect for the furniture. Thanks
I forgot….the deck is in full desert sun & gets a few inches of snow (that melt off fairly quickly) each winter.
I just went to order my products, and now I am a little confused. With regard to RAD products, we were going to strip and then brighten, but the product descriptions says the brightener doesn't remove gray wood. Do we need to strip, clean, and THEN brighten before staining with TWP 100?
Kathyrn, you do not need to use a cleaner if you use a stain stripper. The stripper will remove any graying as well.
Thank you again!
The home we recently purchased in northern NV has a 20 yr old redwood deck that is structurally sound & in overall good condition. It was well-maintained up until the last 4 or 5 years, but they used a stain that we want no part of. Thankfully, most of what wasn't already gone came off with a couple of pressure washings, but we have some spots where it has stuck & then we have lots of graying. Our intention is to strip the deck with RAD stripper and a pump sprayer, then apply the RAD brightner, but now we have to choose the product. We want TWP, and it since we appear to be able to, we think we should use the 100, and will likely get the redwood tint. Are we right in our thinking? Is there anything we've left out? We were going to sand, too, but we don't really need to so will probably not. Thanks for your help!
Kathryn, the TWP 100 would be the way to go. Try the stripper first and if needed sand the remaining off.
Thanks so much for your reply. You are a wonderful resource!
Central Wisconsin
15 year old deck
Full sun
Used Behr last time–deck floor did not retain stain after 2 years
High traffic
Pressure treated lumber
Some mold
Kathy, you will need to remove the Behr 100% before applying the TWP 100 Series. Once done with the prep, apply 2 coats wet on wet of the TWP.
Maria, TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark for this deck in Indiana.
I have a siding stain dilemma. We have a house with cedar siding, plus a detached garage with a new addition (also with cedar siding – all rough side out). The house is 23 years old, and was stained with semi-transparent stain (Benjamin Moore I think) at installation, and again then after 3 years. In 2004, we switched to Cabot semi-solid (New Redwood) and have been very happy with the results. After 9 years, it still looks fresh.
I have a siding stain dilemma. We have a house with cedar siding, plus a detached garage with a new addition (also with cedar siding – all rough side out). The house is 23 years old, and was stained with semi-transparent stain (Benjamin Moore I think) at installation, and again then after 3 years. In 2004, we switched to Cabot semi-solid (New Redwood) and have been very happy with the results. After 9 years, it still looks fresh.
In 2007, we put an addition on the house, and used the reformulated Cabot semi-solid stain. It looks terrible now – the red has completely faded out, and the surface is a chalky brown color. We need to re-stain the addition, but do not want to have to re-stain the rest of house. Obviously, matching the color is important, but from what I've read (and with my experience) I do not want to use Cabot.
In addition, we need to stain new wood on the garage addition and also need to re-stain the original garage, some of which hasn't been stained since 1992. Matching color to the house is not as important, but I do want to use the same stain. We will be hiring the same person who did the 2004 job, so I know that he will prepare the surface well.
My question(s) is – what product do you recommend as a replacement to the (old and good) Cabot New Redwood Semi-solid? What needs to be done to the already stained surfaces? And how can we match the color of the portion of the house that still looks good? (It will cost us significantly more to stain that portion of the house).
We are located in southeastern PA. The house is in the woods, with shade on the north and west sides, but sun on the south and east sides. The garage is not in the woods, so only the north side remains in shade. On the house, we have not had any mold issues on the north side, but the south side has faded and dried out faster due to the sun exposure. No issues on the garage, other than fading.
Thanks for your help.
Peggy, when switching brands it is very difficult to match colors. I would look at the TWP 1500 for this and maybe get some samples to test. Other stain option would be the Armstrong Clark. All surfaces need to be prepped first. You may need to strip off the Cabot if you are switching brands.
Have a cedar deck (built in 1990) still in pretty good shape except for a couple of boards that I am going to replace. Just power washed last year and stained with Sherwin Williams deckscape natural oil based stain. The floor appears to need stained again. Is that common to need to restain after one year for this old of deck (live in Omaha NE)? Should I stay with the same stain or do recommend changing to a stain like TWP? If I change stain do I need to power wash again?
Kellen, if you switch then you need to strip off the SW. Hard to say but in most cases a stain like TWP will give about 2 years on a horizontal if prepped correctly and applied correctly.
I bought 2 cans of TWP stain 3 years ago to stain my deck. I only used 1 and never opened the 2nd can. I am in the process of re-staining my deck. Will this can still be good to use after a good shaking or is there an expiration to it?
Thanks!
Fred, I am not sure on that. Best to contact the TWP manufacture for help with this.
We need to "paint" our cedar-sided/brick house. It was last painted with Behr oil-based stain 8 years ago. The side with the west sun is ready for a new coat. Behr no longer makes an oil-based stain, so I am looking at TWP that I learned of on this website. Which TWP or other coating do I want to choose ?
Thanks
Luginia, TWP is not a paint but a semi-transparent stain. It cannot be applied on top of a paint, but unfinished wood. It will not work for you.
[…] Important Note: This is Our 2nd Review of TWP 100 Series Stain. Our first review of the TWP 100 Series here: TWP Wood Stain Review […]
I applied TWP stain to a deck after building it and waiting about 5 months for it to season. First used a cleaner and it turned out real nice.
details
Pressure Treated pine
Middle Louisiana
I went with 2 different colors (1 base of cedar, and an accent color of cape cod for rails and posts) I am very happy with results (and was guided to use TWP by your website)
The deck is about 200 sq ft all told and I ran out of the Cedar stain after getting about 1 1/2 coats on (so unfortunately part of my deck is slightly lighter than the other side)
Can i purchase another can of TWP and reapply on the side of the deck that i only got 1 coat on? ( i'm not going to be terribly upset if i can it still looks good)
Or should i give it a couple years and then use a cleaner again and restain?
Thanks
Alex
Alex, I would wait until next season, lightly clean and recoat the entire floor. New wood really should only get 1 coat the first time staining.
I have just completed a 1200 square foot treated pine deck. I plan to sand the deck before applying stain/sealer. What stain/sealer do you recommend (in south Mississippi). How long should I wait before I apply the stain/sealer? What steps should I follow before staining?
Brandon, new wood needs to weather or dry out for a period of 2-12 months before staining depending on the stain brand. TWP wants you to wait at least 4 months. Best would be to wait until Spring, then clean and brighten the wood to prep. We are not fans of sanding for prepping unless absolutely needed. You want the wood as porous as possible so the stain can penetrate deeply. The better the stain absorbs, the better it will work. Sanding can hinder absorption, especially on new wood.
Thank you for providing such a great resource! Please advise- I stained new cypress with twp 100 knowing of the short life, but wanted color on my new home 18 months later color is still good but, easily scratches off with fingernail and looks saturated after rain. Let's say this is because it did not penetrate the new hard wood. My biggest concern is the black mold after this short time. So I was wondering if I should use a synthetic oil based stain or maybee I didn't wipe off excess but mold didn't happen until things dulled at 12 months. Thanks
Chad, I would clean off the mold and stay with the same stain. TWP does not promote or feed mold growth but mold may grow in the wood if the stain has broken down already.
i have a cedar split rail fence, when the fence was new 3 years ago i applied TWP100 . I applied 2 coats as was told. I notice now it is peeling. When contact TWP was told should have let the wood dry out before staining thats why peeling. i have contacted sealer store where I purchased the stain asking why didnt tell me that when purchased. Have not received a response . Very upset with over 600 ft of fencing. TWP told me to light pressure wash and restain in spring. I am NOT sure how good this stain is now that I have this issue.
Vrocket, all new wood should weather for months then needs to be cleaned and brightened before staining. This goes for the majority of stains, not just TWP brand. We use a lot of TWP and it says right on the can that new wood should weather for 6-12 months then needs to be cleaned first. This is a good lesson as to why it is important to read the instructions fully before applying a stain to wood. Failure to read and follow instructions may result in premature product failure as it did in your case. This is not the stains fault but unfortunately the applicators fault for not following the directions.
Vrocket, in addition stains will last only 2-3 years before recoating and it seems that the TWP did do that.
Hi there. I'm applying TWP 100 deck stain for the first time to a 17 yr old cedar 1000 sqft deck with 72 feet of rainings that has been previously protected with Cabot stains. How long does the stain need to dry before rain. I'm in PA and this week seems to be it for the nice weather, but there looks to be some rain Sunday. If I get it coated Friday and Saturday will that be enough time to dry before the rain? Temps look to be in the mid 60 's with nights in the 50's with humidity around 50%.
Pattie, you should be okay with the weather if it does not rain until Sunday. The TWP 100 Series is not legal for PA. Did you buy it locally or online?
You mention letting new redwood dry before you treat with TWP. How low should the moisture content be for success? This is a very damp climate.
Ron, TWP wants you to wait 4-12 months before staining new wood. It is not so much the moisture content but the stain\’s inability to penetrate smooth new wood.
DSHelp, great site & great information. Why does TWP require 2 coats (wet/wet) when some other stains are a 1 coat application? And if two coats aren’t applied, what would the results yield? I’m asking because I have between 600-850sq feet ahead of me. If you don’t think I should skip the 2nd coat, then what stain to use in its place would be appreciated. Thanks
Castle, Many stains require 2 coats with just a few needing one. It is best to follow the manufacturers directions for maximum protection and overall finished appearance. It is easy to do 2 coats with TWP. Typically you only need to do this to the horizontal surfaces. Apply first coat to to entire floor the walk back on right away and apply the second coat.
We recently installed a new pressure treated deck which has been curing over the summer. Unfortunately, the planters have left darker spots and some mildew. Per your recommendation, we have ordered TWP 1500, but will it even out the spots in application? What is the best method of killing mildew? Many thanks.
Tricia, I would try a good deck cleaner and deck brightener. This should remove the mildew. The dark spots under the planters may be water stains and they typically do not come out.
Ummmm ….because it's an older deck and some of the horizontal planks have become pretty rough (in some places where I got too close with the pressure washer and so me places just from wear)? Some of the boards have splintered in places, from wear. I guess I just assumed that I needed to sand before applying the finish to get that nice finished appearence. Are you suggesting I don't need to sand it? Wow, that would eliminate A LOT OF WORK!
Debbie, if splintered I would lightly sand the splinters off. Decks are not supposed to look like furniture or a hardwood floor. Use no higher grit then 60.
Thank you! Your help has been phenomenal! I ordered the TWP 100 stain over the weekend and they are Fedexing it to me today! Thanks again —
Reading this site has been very informative. I just wish I'd found it BEFORE I'd started my project …. I am refinishing a cedar deck that was treated about 4 years ago with a Benjamin Moore semi-transparent product. It began chipping and looked terrible after just a year. On the advice of the local paint store I purchased the Sikkens Cetol SRD and the Benjamin Moore Remove and Brightener products. I've managed to remove all of the old product, but then went ahead and used the Brightener BEFORE sanding it. Will I need to reapply the Brightener after I've sanded? Based on what I've read here, I think I will return the Sikkens and find somewhere to buy the TWP 100 – my climate is very similar to the poster from central Oregon (I am from eastern WA State). I am also a little confused about what grit of sand paper to use, I've read conflicting advice. You're nice to answer all of our questions!
Debbie, why are you sanding?
I posted before. A deck undergoing refinishing in Central Oregon, High Elevation Desert. I have three questions for you…
Wood/Recommendation: I find the wood is western red cedar instead of pine as previously posted. Would like confirmation that you still recommend the same treatment with the wood being cedar. You recommended TWP as having the most longevity. TWP100 series has VOC 550, and is OK to use in Oregon. The conditions are: very dry (humidity extremely low), intense desert sun and heat, very cold winters, during the summer – temperature extremes from freezing at night to 90s and 100s during the day, intermittent snow in winter. Decks are almost sanded and ready. (Moved in with decks a sticky brown/black, sanded and used SuperDeck – it just weathered away, sanded and used Behr – it split and peeled, sanded – ready for a longer lasting and less labor intensive solution for maintenance recoating.)
Prep: For other posts, to open pores, you recommend cleaning and brightening for best product penetration of the wood. Cleaning even after just sanding the decks down to new wood? (Asking for confirmation of needing to "clean".) Do you recommend using the TWP cleaner/brightener products, or something else? I saw Biowash (brand name) cleaner and brightener products recommended while reading posts here. Please recommend a brand name, or say it doesn't matter which brand. There is a TWP dealer about 40 miles away.
Color: I find in the posts here, that the TWP100 series clear 100 has no UV protection and the decks will age to grey. Between the TWP 100 series colors of Cedartone, Honeytone, or Pecan, does one of these have the "better" or "best" UV protection? Or are all three about the same for UV protection? I don't want grey decks which seems to be what Clear 100 will do. I'll be recoating each 18-24 months or maybe sooner for the back deck with more extreme conditions. If I don't want grey decks, must I use a color, and if yes, which one do you recommend most? Also please include "Why?" for any of your answers.
Thank you! I appreciate this site! Hooray!
CeExtreme,
Yes you can still use the TWP 100 for this deck.
You should clean and brighten after sanding. This will help remove the sand dust and slightly roughen the wood so that the stain is able to penetrate better. TWP makes good prepping products and so does Biowash. Stay away from \”bleach\” based cleaners.
115 Honeytone is the lightest and will fade the fastest. Cedartone will hold color longer and has a orange/yellow tone. Pecan adds a little bit of brown into the cedartone color. Both Cedartone and Pecan are similar in performance. either of those two would work well but i personally like the Pecan color better for appearance.
Urgently need advice on best/most efficient way to apply TWP 100 (we got the Cedartone Natural) later this week on a very large (1100 sq. feet) pressure-treated wood deck that is 5 years old and never had product on it. My husband has powerwashed it and used a deck cleaner on it; now wondering once it's thoroughly dry if he can spray the stain on or put it on with the widest brushed-face-type applicator he can find…which would be the better approach? Advice would be appreciated!
Hillsborough, if you spray you will need to back brush the stain. We like stain pad applicators such as Shurline or Padco brand.
We are building a brand new cedar (not treated) deck. South facing. Extreme temps with lots of sun, and cold winters with snow. We live in ND. Temperatures are already down in the 40's. What would you recommend for stain? Do we need to clean/strip the new wood before we stain? We want a good brand that will last with no mold growth. Would appreciate any of brands.. We want to do it right. Thanks.
Tavia, new cedar should weather for awhile before staining. I would wait until Spring then clean and brighten to prep prior to applying the TWP 100 Series.
We finished cleaning and resealing our 5 year old cedar deck with TWP 100 redwood about 2 weeks ago. 3 days ago, a large tree fell on the deck, damaging some boards, but a lot of scuffing of the brand new surface. Insurance is willing to pay to recoat the entire deck. Will the color become even darker red the more coats of stain we apply? After the 2 coats "wet on wet", the color is already quite dark. Is the best plan to clean and recoat? or to strip off the fresh sealer and recoat? Also, I would assume that new boards need to have the same number of coats to match the color? i.e. if we end up recoating over the entire deck, then new boards would need three coats to match? Thanks for any insight.
Rob, That is too bad! New wood will not match older wood no matter what. I would wait until
Spring then lightly clean and recoat the entire floor.
We had a new, treated pine fence installed a few days ago. Would the TWP 100 be a good choice for a pine fence? Since it's vertical, how many sq ft would a gal cover. Do we need 2 coats? Any other thoughts would be welcome.
Kathy, If this is rough wood then you can stain right away with TWP. I would do 2 coats wet on wet. If smooth wood, you should wait 4-12 months before staining. Coverage on a fence can be around 100 sq. feet for 2 coats of stain. Maybe a little more.
Hey, thanks for all of the awesome information on this website! I have a 5 year old pressured treated deck in Southeastern PA. I sanded and stripped it completely and coated it with TWP 100 Rustic Oak. The problem is that after i finished the entire deck, I realized I dont like the color!(More so when the sun is on it) :/ Too much Red pigment in it. I may have not mixed the sample properly, because the sample looked different. So I am wondering…. Do I have any options shy of stripping it and redoing it? Maybe in a year or two I have re-coat over top with a different color? Thanks so much for all of the help!
Chris, TWP is easily removable in the future with a deck stain stripper. We spray on our stripper then lightly pressure wash it off. I would do that if you want to switch to a different color.
I have a redwood deck in southern AZ that is partially exposed with the rest covered. It has a penofin type sealer that is gone on the exposed part and still in good shape on the covered portion. I was going to try to strip it with RAD. Was wondering if oxalic acid would work as a brightener and nutralizer. Also was going to use TWC stain but couldn't decide between the 100 series or the 1500 series. Could you offer me some advice?
Robert, we always use the companion Restore-A-Deck Brightener to neutralize. Oxalic would probably work though. We like both TWP stains and seem to work equally well.