TWP 100 Wood Deck Stain
Important Note for 2019: This is Our 1st Review of TWP 100 Series Stain. Our second review was completed in 2012. Please see here: TWP 100 Stain Review 2013
TWP 100 Series Wood and Deck Preservative has been manufactured for over 25 years while proving to be one of the best products on the market. TWP Stains are registered as wood preservatives by the Environmental Protection Agency, the only stain to achieve this distinction. TWP 100 Series is a 550 VOC compliant wood stain that is available currently in 36 states. Composed of natural and synthetic oils, TWP 100 Series will provide ample protection from snow, rain, and UV radiation.
TWP 100 Series has been rated #1 by Consumer magazine.
TWP Stain – 100 Series Rating
TWP 100 Series Wood Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8.5
– We tested the 101 Cedartone color for the pool deck. The semi-transparent color was a traditional cedar color, slightly orange/yellow. The stain had no issues penetrating into the wood completely and did not mask the wood grain.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– The TWP 100 Stain retained 80% of the original color after 2 years of weathering.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8.5
– TWP 100 exhibited zero peeling of the stain after 2 years. Slight wearing around the stairs where the wood butted up to the pool. This area was slightly more faded as well. Possibly from the chlorine in the pool.
TWP 100 Series
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– We paid $139.99 for the 5-gallon pail of TWP 101 Stain. We used all 5 gallons for the 800-foot pool deck. We applied two coats to the wood. The cost to stain with TWP 100 Series was $.18 per foot for 2 coats of stain.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9
– TWP offers the best resistance to mold and mildew for an oil-based wood preservative. No mold, mildew or algae spores were present on the wood decking.
Ease of Application: 9.5
– TWP is easily applied. We applied two coats to the flooring using an 18″ wide stain applicator. The first coat took us about 30 minutes to cover 800 feet. Second coat took only 20 minutes as the TWP 100 applied at a better spread rate. Overall the 800 square feet was covered in under an hour and applied evenly with no puddling.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
– TWP 100 lightens in color after 2 years. No darkening from UV or mold.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 9
– TWP 100 Series offers deep penetration with no darkening of the stain. Reapplication will be easy without the need for stripping off the two-year-old stain. Cleaning to remove some dirt and grime would be enough to prep for another coat.
Overall Score TWP 100 Series at 2 Year Period: 8.81
– TWP for good reason gets one of our top overall scores. It is too bad that this product is not available in all 50 states but the TWP 1500 Series performed nearly the same in our test results and can be obtained in all states. If you are looking for a great stain that is economical as well, then the TWP 100 Series should be considered.
Product Information:
TWP Help? Search Google: TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 100 Stain
TWP Stain Facebook Page: TWP Deck and Wood Stains
Cost: $33.99 per Gallon, $169.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based Wood preservative
Available Colors: 100 Clear, 101 Cedartone, 102 Redwood, 115 Honeytone, 116 Rustic, 120 Pecan, 105 Cape Cod Gray, 106 Prarie Gray
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 2-8 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 550 Compliant in 36 States
More Info: Product Data
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pine
Deck Square Footage: 800
UV Exposure: Full Sun Pool Deck
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: 101 Cedartone
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
I stained my deck with TWP 100 last fall and now i kind of feel its not as vibrant as it was during last fall.. is that expected? and also i missed to sand before the stain and now every time i run my hand over the deck top i get a splinter or two in to my hand.. can any thing be done without having to restain?
TWP is a penetrating stain that soaks fully into the wood. It is normal to lightly fade (not peel) over the years before a reapplication is needed. Just leave as is and do a maintenance coat next year.
THANKS. What about the splinters.. is ther any way to fix wothout restaining them
Sorry but no.
Hi. We live in Georgia and trying to decide what to do about a new porch which faces South with a lot of sun (picture included).
We originally thought we would paint railings white and stain the cedar ceiling, corbels and gable. Now that we see the cedar railing, I think I’ve changed my mind as the wood itself is beautiful.
TWP 200 has been recommended by the contractor; however, he did not mention that the wood might need to age. Some of the wood seems rough and some smooth.
Couple of questions:
Would you recommend TWP 200 Butternut (as the door is stained a dark walnut) or prefer a TWP 100 or even an Armstrong product?
Would you still recommend to allow it all to age 4 – 12 months before staining?
Is there anything else I might be missing while considering staining everything as it pertains to direct sunlight?
Thank you in advance!
Yes you will need to age this for 4-12 months and prep after with the Gemini Restore Kit. Use the TWP 100 Series in Dark Oak if looking at a color similar to the door.
I want to slightly lighten the two 100 dark oak. Can I add clear and mix the two to achieved a lighter stain without adding any concern?
Yes, you can mix the TWP colors. We do it all the time.
Is there any advantage in using 1500 TWP over 100 series for new Cedar Fence 6 mos. old?
No not really.
Any thoughts on how twp 100 or 1500 will work on redwood? Testing was performed on pine.
No issues with using TWP on redwood.
Hi, I have a ~12 year old 600 sq ft Mahogany deck. It has probably had 5~7 coats of Sikkens deck stain on it over the years. The last coat is now peeling off at a rapid rate and I am about to have it sanded. I am thinking about using the TWP 100 (redwood) stain. Is there any additional prep work I need to do besides the sanding?
Also, there is a large built in bench around 2 sides of the deck. Stripping the vertical pieces will be tricky. Do they need to be completely stripped down to the bare wood for the TWP to stick and look reasonably similar to what is there?
How to I figure out if I will need one or two coats?
Thanks, Jeff
All the Sikkens will need to be removed. Sand and then clean and brighten for final prep. Two coats wet on wet since it is an older deck and all previous coatings will be removed.
Hi, what do you mean “wet on wet”?
Thanks!
Hi,
I have an 11 month old cedar deck. Our house is set in the woods and surrounded by 40′ + trees. We get no direct sun in the morning, but a fair amount of afternoon sun. All of the railing you see is replaned western redwood(?) from the original deck which was built in 1970.
Our contractor hand sealed all of our decking and railing with Olympic clear 3 year. As you can see it is coming off quickly.
Note: The single board that is darker I brush coated with Olympic 6 year semi transparent in the redwood tone. I am liking the darker look and think it matches better with the railing.
Any suggestion on a redwood tone stain that I can put on the decking that will compliment the railing?
Thanks for your help,
Ben
Look at the Cedartone or Pecan color in the TWP.
Hi, I am building western red cedar outdoor furniture. What steps and products should I use?
TWP cannot be applied to new wood right away. They want 4-12 months of weathering outdoors and you will need to prep with their Gemini Restore Kit.
Does anyone know if tint can be added to the series 100 clear? I would like to have cedartone.
No you cannot add tints to the TWP clear.
Hi, I am a new customer. Have a deck that was stain with a oil base stain. Want to try your product, how to I prep before I apply your product. This also has been added to so I understand the color will be darker, looking at going with a dark oak stain. Currently a dark brown on the old part. Next what is the difference between the 100 and 1500 series. Also, I have a 200 ft fence installed last fall and want to apply a natural clear coat, want to leave the greyish look, do I have to prep it before spray the fence. and how much would I need to order for 200 feet on the outside 6 foot high. I would need to double the stain to do both inside and out?
If you have an old stain on the deck, you should remove it first. How depends on the type and brand. Many can be stripper and pressure washed off and then brightened. Once prepped, look at the TWP Dark Oak. For the fence, you will need to prep with a deck cleaner and a wood brightener. Use the TWP in Clear. It will gray naturally while protecting the wood. Yes you have to double the amount for both sides of the fence. You have 2400 total sq. feet. About 20 Gallons of the TWP Clear and two coats applied.
Please get back too me. Because sikkins.faded way to fast
I do not see a question?
3 year old deck is ready for a new coat of stain. Should I use the same brand, or would it be ok to use the TWP brand?? If so, what kind of prep work should I do??
If switching brands you should remove by stripping or sanding. Brighten the wood after.
new yellow cedar decking…how long should it sit before cleaning & staining with TWP 100 ?
If I have vapor barrier-on ground and decking is 16" above, is it necessary to stain underneath board? (2X6" decking.)
Where can I get twp 100 stain in Tacoma/ Seattle area, western Washington.?
TWP wants 4-12 months and prep with their Gemini Restore Kit before staining. Just one coat as well for new wood. No need to stain undersides.
Where can I get twp stain in Seattle/ Tacoma area, western Washington.?
Mike, order online or contact manufacturer for help in finding a location near you.
ACE hardware can order it for you. I have used the TWP116 with great results. It is special ordered and comes 4 gallons to a box.
I am installing a new cedar (kiln dried) pergola in Maryland. All rough cut boards. I want to prevent graying. In years to come, removal of stain from a 3 layer, 12 ft high 14×20 pergola will be very difficult (topmost layer is 2x4s on 10 inch centers). Is there a product I can apply with a sprayer after applying a cleaning product such that I don't have to go in and hand stain every board? I am not even sure it would be possible to do that.
You can spray on the TWP but you will need to back brush to catch drip drips and to make sure it applies uniformly.
Where can I buy TWP in. Houston, Texas?
Has any one had trouble with the T.W.P. treated deck being slippery when wet?
We never had as it is a penetrating stain when applied correctly. I suppose if you over applied the TWP it could be somewhat slippery.
followed the directions to a "T" on a brand new C60 ft. Cedar deck. It did not make it thru the winter. The stain pealed off. My friend used it also and the same thing happened. Everywhere we walked the stain came off :'(
SG, TWP is a penetrating deck stain. If it peeled then it never penetrated and that is a result of over applying, improper prep, or combination of both. If it soaks in then it does not peel. For new wood TWP wants you to wait 4-12 months and clean and brighten for prep. Also they suggest just one coat the first year and they suggest to apply another coat the second year when dealing with new wood. New wood is not absorbent and the reasons I mentioned is most likely why it had an issue.
Greetings, I just re-stained my pine deck after stripping all the old finish off, treating with brightener etc. I read that I needed to be careful to not over apply the stain, so I ended up just doing one coat. I hit a few other places with a bit more, but as far as I can tell the color is good and I am happy with the outcome. It did not look like it needed more. However, since I did not do a second coat, did I under apply the stain? I used a bit over 3 gallons on a mainly horizontal ground deck (not elevated) that had two sections, 15×23 and 16×22 respectively. I bought 8 gallons thinking I would need that much plus some for maintenance. I applied with the small 6" pad you sell. If I did under apply, is it too late to do a second coat (it has been 3 days, and it would not been done until at least 2 more, and there has been some very light drizzle one morning), or should I just wait to see how it is next summer? Thanks!
Leave alone and apply a light coat next Spring if needed. Better this way as it may not take another coat now.
I'm a single mom in the Dallas-Ft. Worth area so my apologies in advance for the many questions. I bought a new home about 10 months ago in a new subdivision so am dealing with new construction/healthy wood. I'm considering staining my side of the yard wood fence since I believe the wood is now “old enough” but am unsure as to the benefit since the subdivision lots are small and I share the fence with a neighbor on the east side and a different neighbor on the west side….and these neighbors probably won't stain their sides of the fence.
Question 1) Is there a benefit to me years later in terms of seeing a beautiful fence on my side should I choose to stain the yard fence visible on my property while my neighbor(s) neglect staining their sides?
Question 2) My fence looks great now but I'm honestly unsure as to what if anything the builder has already treated the wood with. Assuming I do treat the fence on my side, should I just clean the wood first and then stain because my gut leads me to believe the builder hasn’t treated the wood?
Question 3) I'm uncertain as to what to clean my fence with before beginning this project. Any suggestions?
Questions 4) Its seems that TWP 100 is an option for purchase today in TX but I'm confused as to if I should go with TWP 100 (seems to be better per the discussion/reviews below so I'm leaning on going this route) or TWP 1500 and what later challenges I'll have wrt future staining assuming TX later outlaws the sale of TWP 100… Would I be able to stain my fence in the future with any retail brand oil-based stain or would TWP 1500 be an option if my initial stain today is TWP 100?
Questions 5) Would stripping be later required to go from TWP 100 in 2015 to TWP 1500 or to a retail oil-based brand 3 or 4 years later?
Questions 6) Am I correct to assume a 2-coat stain with TWP 100 will last 3 or 4 years on average in the state of TX considering our hot summers?
Questions 7) What recommendations do you have to protect home siding paint?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!
1. Depends on the UV exposure. best to do all sides so might want to ask them. It will definitely look better on your side.
2. You would know if it was treated previously by seeing if there is color added. Doubt the builder did anything. Always prep before staining.
3. Restore A Deck Kits and light pressure washing.
4. You can use the 1500 over the 100. If you switch brands then you have no choice but to strip and remove first.
5. Yes if switching brands.
6. Yes on vertical wood.
7. No idea on the paint
No, it (the color) will not last more than a year when exposed to rain and sun! I have used 1500 series to stain a new, 1 year aged (without stain), pressure treated wood, prewashed, let dry, applied 2 coats within 30 min, the color all faded next summer. You have been warned! Not worth the extra cost. Many reviews are bogus or not from folks whom have had actually experience longer than after applying. I bought and used TWP based on reviews, the actually product is anything but like the reviews. Use at your own risk if price and labor is of no concern. You'd have to re-stain yearly, major PITA!
Simon, sorry it did not work to your expectations. We use TWP on our customers decks on average of about 400 decks a year and for the past 10+ years. They all get 2-3 years of protection and does not need to be done every year. The only exception is new wood and we tell our customers that this is normal and they will need to apply alight coat after the first year on new wood. This is due to the wood, not the TWP. Thanks
The key for best results is proper prep-work. When we purchased our home it came with a beautiful yard but the 400 ft (2400 sq ft) of cedar fence was dark grey almost black that looked very bad in such a beautiful yard. I had never power washed wood before and as recommended I power washed w/3200 psi 25 deg tip and the results looked like new when completed. I did not feel the need to strip or brighten. Used pump sprayer & 15 gal of twp 101 and the appearance is better then new and is just as beautiful as the yard landscaping. What a huge difference. Always being asked what I used to achieve such great results. Looks very close to day of staining after 2 yrs. highly recommend TWP 100, by far the most bang for your buck.
I am sanding some tongue and groove clear western red cedar that we installed a couple years ago under a porch. As this is the ceiling, it is not exposed to the sun or water. I had to sand it to get some old CWF clear searler off after a major leak. I live in the Texas hill country west of Austin. I used to use CWF over the years but it doesn't seem to be the same product.
I thought about putting a marine polyurethane on the cedar but I like the more natural look of a clear sealer. The wood is multi-tone so I don't want a stain. What would you recommend?
Try the TWP 100 Clear. No tint and will work well.
Just finished sanding a solid color stain off a 2 yr. old salt treated deck in full sun, in East TN. Do I still need to use RAD cleaner/brightener? As well, I have narrowed my next stain down to the TWP 100 or Armstrong Semi-trans Grey. Which will do the best job protecting against UV degradation and preserving the wood which is already cracked severely.
Yes on the final prep of the cleaner and brightener. Either of those products will work well. We do like the AC gray better then the TWP.
Stain three different colors. Bought five gallons of rustic TWP 100. Didn't even cover with one coat my 375 sq ft deck. Applied with a 3 inch brush. Three different colors even after following all instructions. The restore cleaner and brightener worked great but the rustic TWP 100 gave dark brown, reddish, and fire engine red in color. Looks horrible. Called customer service and the representative said "what's my question and do I want to order more to finish?" I said what about the three different colors? He responded with "that is irrelevant and would you like to place a order or not?"
TWP Rustic is a reddish color with a hint of brown. TWP stains are semi-transparent which means they will highlight the natural color tones of your wood. If it came out 3 different colors then your wood enhanced it that way if you applied it evenly as you described. It is not the stains fault for this. This is normal for any stain brand that is a semi-transparent. Feel free to post a picture in our forum if you would like more of an opinion on the appearance.
I have a nine month old pressure treated pine deck that has never been painted, stained, etc…. What do I need to do to prep it or can I just stained. It has greyed only slightly.
Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit and stain with the TWP. The kit will remove the mill glaze and restore the color.
Does TWP 100 come in a Gray color and is there a retail outlet in the Niagara NY area?
TWP 100 Series is not allowed in the NY area. The 1500 Series is allowed there but does not come in a gray color.
WHO SELLS THIS PRODUCT IN COLORADO. THANKS
Is TWP 100 series available in Charlotte, NC. If so, where?
Also, how does a water -based stain/sealant compare to oil for a new pine treated-wood deck?
I would contact the manufacturer for help with locating stains. Did you read this about new wood?: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Where can I get twp stain in Seattle area, western Washington.?
Contact them for help.
If I were to refinish a deck in Texas with TWP 100, would I be able to restain with TWP 1000 (or something else) in future years without stripping it in the event Texas decides to outlaw TWP 100?
You can recoat it with the same 100 or the VOC compliant 1500. Not other brands of stain.
We had peeling, mildewy solid color stain on our 5 year old deck so we have sanded the entire deck and are planning to restain with TWP 100 Cedartone. Do I need to wait any time to apply the stain or can I proceed when we get a few dry days?
You will need to prep after the sanding to help the TWP to absorb deeper. Use their Gemini Restore Kit.
I've purchased and assembled a Western Red Cedar Adirondack Chair set from Tofino Cedar Furniture Co. in Canada. They recommend [for people wishing to treat ("unnecessary")] a Sikkens product not available in California. When searching on line I found the TWP-1500 was very highly rated and the TWP-100 even higher. My questions are 1) Is it necessary to "age" the product 1st? (According to Tofino web-site they "only use Wood from naturally fallen trees (storms) and branches and logs left and recovered from others Lumber operations….." does this count as aged? 2) Which TWP product 1500 or 100 is best suited to the intense UV environment of Southern California?
In CA you are only to use the TWP 1500. TWP does want you to let new wood weather in the elements for 4-12 months. Also needs to be prepped before application. If your wood is smooth then you will need to let it sit out in the sun as they suggest and prep.
New Georgia deck. Cedar and cypress. Applied TWP 100 Pecan to both after they aged about three weeks. Looks great on the cedar, not so good on the cypress. The builders rushed me because they wanted it stained before the screens are installed. I wish I could lighten the cypress… Is there an easy way to do this? More impotently, I'm afraid that they messed up my ceiling (which has sky lights) – I asked for clear TWP, but they applied Cabot 1400 clear instead. Please tell me that I can apply TWP cedertone or honey over the Cabot clear?? They just applied it and now I realize that it will probably turn gray within the year. What should I do?
You cannot lighten a stain color but you can strip it off and start over. You cannot apply TWP over top of Cabot or any other stain. Being that it is a ceiling with no direct sunlight, it will not gray in a year. It could take several years to gray or longer. BTW, TWP wants you to wait 4-12 months and prep first before staining new wood. Not 3 weeks.
Thank you for the quick reply. Very much appreciated. The pecan color has evened out nicely so all that's left to do now is the floor, which is pine. We're waiting until Spring, when the temperatures are warmer but I wanted to know if you can apply TWP 1500 or 200 over an older coat of TWP 100-series without stripping first? If not, can you apply TWP 100 over an older coat of TWP 100 without a problem? Thank you again!
You can apply 1500 (or 100) over the 100 as long as you use a deck cleaner and light pressure wash first. We would not use the 200 over the 100. The 200 is a very different product and you may have some drying issues.
Thanks – last question.. Which type of deck cleaner would you recommend in this scenario?
I would use the Gemini Restore A Deck Cleaner.
Located in Georgia
Brand new refurbished deck (less than 2 weeks old)
Boards are Cypress, hand rails are Cedar
Should I let the wood cure before staining, if so how long? Getting conflicting advice from contractors.
What stain do you recommend for Cypress?
What is the difference between TWP 100 & 200?
Thanks
Yes on weathering in our opinion and always best to follow the advice of the stain brand manufacturer, not the contractors. 200 Series is for shakes and shingles while the 100 is for decks.
Hello, first of all, this is a great site!
I live in Toronto, Canada where they have also applied the low VOC law. I have a 5 year old cedar deck. I did not seal it right away after construction (big mistake). It greyed and got dirty over a period of 3-4 years. Last year, I tried to sand all of the fibers that have built up over the years. I then used a deck cleaner/brightener. Following that, I used the Benjamin Moore Arborcoat waterborne translucent deck stain. After the winter, I found that 2/3 of my deck has peeled off. What a massive waste of time and money. I was extremely disappointed and frustrated.
I need some help from the experts! What should I do? I want something that will last and that I can trust.
Question 1: From your past experience with other Canadians, do you know any products available in Canada that are good?
Question 2: If answer is No to question 1, then I'll need to order a product in the U.S and ship it to buffalo for pickup. What do you recommend that I do to strip, clean and re-stain? Any help and advice is greatly appreciated!
Question 3: Sanding was a huge job, can I avoid sanding?
Thanks,
Alan
1. Sorry but not really. Does not seem anything decent is found in Canadian stores.
2. You cannot strip the Arborcoat. It will need to be sanded. Once removed you will need to clean and brighten the wood. If picking up in the US then look at the Armstrong Clark in a semi solid color.
3. No
Thank you for your reply! Much appreciated. Here are a few follow up questions if you don't mind
1. Can I get away with a Canadian sold product for the cleaner and brightener? or does this play a very big factor into the staining process as well?
2. I used a hand sander last time and it took a very long time. Do you recommend renting a bigger unit from a big box store (if that exists) and what coarseness do you recommend for a cedar deck?
3. Why do you recommend Armstrong Clark over TWP? Just to confirm, I am looking at a non low VOC product, if I'm able to get it shipped and pick it up
4. Can you explain why you would recommend a semi solid color? I've used translucent on the railings and I love how it brings out and enhances the natural color of the cedar.
1. Probably but stay away from bleach based cleaners.
2. We use 60-80 grit for the paper. Large sanders will speed up the process.
3. TWP is not allowed in Canada.
4. Semi-solids will give better UV protection for this.
I have a 20 year old mahogany deck that we have sanded clean and beautiful. I want to apply a clear sealer that will haelp to maintain the natural color of the wood and can be reapplied WITHOUT stripping. What would you recommend?
You need a color in the sealer/stain if you want to prevent UV graying. Look at the TWP 115 Honeytone or for a richer look, the 116 Rustic.
We live in Lawton, OK, temperatures can get extreme here but we applied TWP 100 Cedartone to our 20×20 deck in the middle of April. temperatures from then until July have been well below normal. The deck was 18 months old at the time and was pressure treated, according manufactures specs this was a seasoned deck, nonetheless we sanded the entire surface, was smooth and clean before application of two "wet" coats. drying time was very fast, next day patio was ready for furniture. It came out beautiful, very nice shine to it, deep color, absolutely outstanding. for about 3 weeks.After that the shine is complete gone, very dull looking. We are extremely disappointed with this product, after looking online there is no warranty associated with the stain. In my opinion this stain is a complete failure, to have less than a month of newness is ridiculous, would NOT recommend using this stain at all.
Dean, TWP is not supposed to be shiny at all. It is a penetrating oil based stain that is supposed to a flat appearance. No high quality decking stain will be shiny as that will create a huge peeling mess. Your expectation for the TWP and stains itself are incorrect for being shiny.
Hi!
I purchased a 12 year old home 4 years ago (western NC) with a 2nd story back covered deck (8X40). This year, the center part of the deck still looked nice but the parts which received the most sun had very little color and the water didn't bead up. I used SW Deckscape stripper & revive products then a final power washing because I wasn't sure what was previously used on the deck (wood grain showing but a 'honey' color – the wood is probably pressure treated pine from Lowes). I am a DIY newbe. There are places where the wood looks 'furry' – maybe too much pressure washing / scrubbing with the nylon brush? I noticed you don't recommend sanding but should I sand under these circumstances? If I do have to sand, would it be enough to use a leaf blower to remove dust?
I am 60 so In the future I would like to complete regular maintenance that would let me treat one half of the deck and then the other half of the deck so I wouldn't have to move everything into the yard for a week or more and I wouldn't have to cover everything below deck and in the yard because of harsh chemicals. Can you recommend a semi-transparent stain and a proper maintenance schedule?
Thank you for your help!
You can sand with 60 grit to remove the furring. Use a light pressure washing after to rinse off the dust and open grain of the wood for better stain penetration. Use the TWP 100 Series and maintain every 2-3 years or as needed.
Thank you for the response!
Since coatings on my deck deteriorate at different rates, will it be a problem to re-coat areas that are still beading up? I don't mind washing and re-coating, it is just having to clean/wash/brighten/wash/dry/re-coat that seems overwhelming.
Yes it might not penetrate or dry properly for those areas that are still beading.
Can I wipe up product that doesn't soak in? possibly with a cloth soaked in turpentine?
Yes but make sure to saturate rags with water when done to avoid spontaneous combustion.
Thank you so much for the help!
Hi there,
We just installed a new Western Cedar deck and were wondering what prep. is required prior to staining and what type of stain you could recommend out of the ones we have available here in Edmonton, Alberta (Canada). We get cold winters with lots of snow and warm summers with low humidity. The deck is east facing so it gets a lot of sun during the day but is in full shade in the evenings.
I hear TWP and Armstrong are really good brands for deck stains, unfortunately neither is available here. I have seen the following sold here: Wood Pride by Dulux, Behr, Sikkens, Cabot, Benajmin Moore, C-I-L, and Olympic.
We would prefer a stain that allows more of the wood grain to show through to one that also doesn't require too much maintenance (if possible).
Thanks for any help you can give us.
Of the ones you can find locally use the Olympic but only if it is oil based.
We live in Illinois and have a cedar deck that is about 12 years old. We previously used Sikkens on it and have never been happy with how it holds up (peeling & fading) causing us to have to redo every few years. My husband used a cleaner on it and pressure washed but there are some areas on floor where Sikkens did not come off and the railings still have Sikkens on them. What would we have to do to remove the rest of the Sikkens from the floor and railings before applying the TWP product? Thanks for your help!
You would need a deck stain stripper and pressure washing to remove. You may need to do this a few times as Sikkens can be difficult to get off. Apply wood brightener when done.
Very little solid stain remains hopefully will remove residue with cleaner/brightner application and pressure wash. Any thoughts? Also why TWP 100 over TWP 1500 product?
Clyde, cleaners do not remove solid stains. Stripper may a little but they also in general do not remove solid stains. You cannot cover a solid with TWP so get all of it off if you can. 100 is better at penetrating.
OKC area 1200 sqft deck of which 900 is new smooth pt pine & remaining 300 is 15 yr old previously solid stain pt pine.
Allowing new decking to weather possibly until spring and will clean/brighten all areas prior to stain application.
Wanting to use TWP stain products which is based on all available product reviews. Which TWP product will best suit my situation?
TWP 100 Series bit you cannot apply the TWP on your solid stain. You would need to remove that by sanding.
Live in Pa, Have a deck that is 3 yrs. old, never been stained or weather proofed. Where should I start and what to use?
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kits and stain with TWP 1500 as the 100 is not allowed in PA.
Hello:
I have a small 8 by 10 deck here in NJ which is about 14 years old, stained by acrylic bm yellow about 11 year ago and since then it was stained with a clear Thompson sealer twice which covered only the areas where acrylic gave in…
Overall it looked pathetic…and needed much help ground up.
I used wolman stripper for acrylic and stripped the deck down 90% prior to that washed it with a oxyclean n bleach mixture lastly power washed it using turbo nozzle. I finally sanded it down so that 99.5% of the acrylic is removed.
I have not used a brighter – deck has not seen rain in 4 days and is ready be stained..for which I need advice, I am confused between defy, twp and Armstrong clark…
It southeast facing and gets lots of sun..is also exposed to snow during dec thru march I think its pressure treated pine wood boards
Please advice what will serve my needs best.
Thx in advance for your time and reply…sincerely Ron
Ron San, for this I would go with the Armstrong Clark as it penetrates the best. You should brighten the wood.
Thank you for a days turn around on this, truly appreciate your time n commitment to responding user queries. I shall update with the outcome, I will surely use a brighter before staining.
I notice there is no mention of Wolman F&P not DuraStain on this site – how does that stand up to its performance – I have it available locally hence asking over AClark which has to be shipped. Kindly advice your take on Wolman F&P
Wolman used to make a great stain but they changed the formula for the FP and it is not the same nor as good.
So here is the final update, with all the hide n seek play with mother nature, I stained with Armstrong Clark Cedar Semi T – had it shipped not sold here in NJ , end result AWESOME, rich beautiful color, spreads well and super east clean up. I rolled it with smoothing out with a brush. lessons learned, PREP PREP PREP – 14 year old deck stained initially with Bher Acrylic (ouch) some corporal yellow, then 2 applications of Thompson water sealers all this over 14 years, nut shell it was in bad bad shape so deck now faced Cleaning with Oxi Clean/bleach/detergent home solution, Power Washed, (Wolman) Acrylic Stripper power wash (2 times – turbo nozzle [be careful]), sanded all down (60 Grit) Orbital & Oscillating, Brighter (Wolman – Oxalic Acid) w/light fan tip power wash – MADE A HUGE DIFFERENCE THANKS TO THE SUGGESTION MADE HERE – absorption increased, Filled all cracks n screw holes with DAP oil stainable plastic filler putty (home depot) meticulously sanded to get grain matching as much as possible, tighten all nails and rails, Brighter (yes one last time) w/light fan tip power wash – DRY DRY DRY – finally stain applied in 4 hours DONE!!! There was min 3 days of dry time given between each procedure!
One Bloch – 6 days of bright sun – perfect time to stain right!!! – Nay REMEMBER THOSE SPRINKLERS – THEY STARTED up right in middle of staining – buckets w/stone on top came to rescue! – I thought that was funny!
Last question – Is there anything that can be done on the underside of the deck mine’s raise about 6ft from ground – should something be done underneath – or leave it to weather’s mercy!!?
Thank you very much for all the advice for a novice like me who took up staining the first time ever!
Just leave the underside alone. Glad it turned out great for you!
Hello:
I have a small 8 by 10 deck here in NJ which is about 14 years old, stained by acrylic bm yellow about 11 year ago and since then it was stained with a clear Thompson sealer twice which covered only the areas where acrylic gave in…
Overall it looked pathetic…and needed much help ground up.
I used wolman stripper for acrylic and stripped the deck down 90% prior to that washed it with a oxyclean n bleach mixture lastly power washed it using turbo nozzle. I finally sanded it down so that 99.5% of the acrylic is removed.
I have not used a brighter – deck has not seen rain in 4 days and is ready be stained..for which I need advice, I am confused between defy, twp and Armstrong clark…
It southeast facing and gets lots of sun..is also exposed to snow during dec thru march
Please advice what will serve my needs best.
Thx in advance for your time and reply…sincerely Ron
I just purchased TWP based on the reviews here. I will be using it to stain my deck. Waiting for the weather to cooperate. I plan on using a brush for railings and spindles and roller for the floor boards. Do I have to follow the wet on wet rule? Whats the best way to stain my deck?
Ben, please read: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stain-instructi…
Hi,
First of all, congratulation for your website its awesome and thanks for answering its really helpfull.
I live in Montreal, Canada I have a house with pessure treated cedar wood siding board (made by 'Goodfellowinc'). Its 20 years old, generaly in good shape but blackened due to UV. I never applided any product but now I would like to clean the wood and applided a product. Should I use TWP 100 or 1500 and what product should I use to clean the wood?
Thanks for you help.
PS : Sorry for my bad english!
Olivier, neither TWP products are allowed in Canada due to your laws. I would strong consider the Armstrong Clark of this as it is a great stain for older and dried out wood. Prep first with the Restore A Deck products.
Thanks for you answer. And if for an unknow reason I would have TWP 100 and 1500, what would be the best product to apply?
Thank you for your time.
Either works very well.
Hello,
5 year old mahogany deck originally stained with Penofin Brazilian Hardwood oil stain. Live in Northeast and deck faces North so part shade & part sun, in winter subject to standing snow and ice despite shoveling. Cleaned, sometimes sanded, and re-stained annually. Switched to Sikkens 2 years ago due to change in Penofin formula on recommendation from Benjamin Moore representative. For two consecutive years the Sikkens stain fades by Feb/March so not particularly impressed with this product either. Recommendations for cleaning v stripping v brightening and TWP stain product.
James, use the Restore A Deck Stripper to remove the Sikkens and neutralize with brightener when done. Your wood type requires annual coatings. Only the 1500 is allowed in the North East part of the country.
We live in MN and have harsh winters. Our deck is rather large and gets a lot of sun exposure in the summer and snow in the winter along with wear and tear from our large dogs. It is old cedar decking and at this point, it looks gray because the stain has wore off except the spindles. Since being in the house for 6 years, we have stained it twice with Pittsburgh Ultra semi-transparent stains and it lasted about a year each time. The 2nd time I even used a deck stripper to really make sure I did everything right. I used a cleaner and applied it during a 65 degree day. I am frustrated because of the labor it takes and the cost for the materials. Is there a better product that I would have access to around here that would withstand the heat and snow pile up? I work at a retail store that sells Cabot and Pittsburgh but am willing to go outside of there to get a long lasting product. Any advice on a better stain or tips on what I can do better would be helpful.
any advice? I was just assessing the deck again today and have a rather large job on my hands. There is about 715 sq of floor boards plus 175 spindles, hand rail, steps and lots of lattice. I don't even know how to estimate all of that out.
ana, we responded to your previous question already. It was on this article: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-is-the-best-dec…
We had a 30 by16 deck built last aug with a roof over it . will that make any difference as to what kind of stain to use. We waited over winter for wood to dry out .. will clean & prep before staining . We live in Missouri. Any suggestions.THANKS
Denny, it will not make a difference on the stain to use but it does mean that the stain will last longer :). Use the TWP 100 Series. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit.