TWP 1500 Series Stain Update 2026
We find that the TWP 1500 Series Stain to be the best performing oil-based deck stain on the market. We personally use the TWP 1500 Series Stain on deck restorations every year in the Midwest and is one of our go-to brands.
- TWP 1500 Series is an EPA-registered semi-transparent oil-based wood preservative, the only exterior wood preservative with that official registration.
- TWP 1500 scored a 9 out of 10 for UV protection and mold resistance, outperforming most oil-based stains tested over two years.
- Coverage runs 150 to 250 square feet per gallon, with a 5-gallon pail costing $234.99, making it roughly $0.35 per square foot for two coats.
- Unlike many oil-based stains, TWP 1500 does not darken over time. It actually lightened slightly at the two-year mark for a more natural look.
- Reapplication is straightforward. A standard wood deck cleaner preps the surface, and the stain dries to the touch in as little as 6 hours.
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain
TWP 1500 Series was introduced in the Summer of 2010 as the replacement for the TWP 500 Series. TWP 1500 stain is a semi-transparent oil-based wood preservative registered by the EPA. The only deck preservative that is currently registered as an exterior wood preservative.
TWP 1500 Series is designed for all exterior unfinished wood. It has excellent UV resistance from graying. It is mostly used for exterior wood decking, wood fencing, log homes, cedar sided homes, etc. TWP 1500 comes in 10 colors that allow the natural grain of the wood to show through.
TWP Stains – 1500 Stain Rating
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8.5
– TWP 1500 Series had a beautiful rich look to the wood. The wood grain was highlighted naturally. 1501 Cedartone color was slightly brown for a traditional cedar color.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9
– Excellent at preventing UV graying at the two-year mark. One of the top stains that we have tested in terms of absorbing the UV radiation that causes oxidation of the wood.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
– Very good at preventing peeling. TWP penetrates deep into the wood. This seems to reduce any chance of wearing or peeling at the surface.
TWP 1500 Series
Cost Per Square Foot: 8
– TWP 1500 Series cost us $194.99 for a 5-gallon pail delivered. This breaks down to $.35 per foot for 2 coats of stain on our 400 square foot deck. We still had 1.5 gallons left when done. The coverage for the TWP 1500 was close to 200 square feet per gallon.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9
– Of all of the oil-based stains we tested, TWP offers the best protection against mold spores that are known to grow in oil-based stains. This is most likely due to the oils used in TWP’s stains. They do not use linseed oil but rather a mixture of natural and synthetic oils.
Ease of Application: 8
– For an oil-based stain, the TWP 1500 series applied well. We did notice that you need to back brush any puddles to ensure an even application. This is normal for most of the stains that we have tested. TWP 1500 Series did dry to the touch in 6 hours and we were able to put the furniture back on the deck the following day.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
– The 1500 series did not “darken” in color like other oil-based stains have been known to. TWP actually lightened up slightly at the 2-year mark. This gave the wood a more natural-looking feel.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
– TWP 1500 Series would be an easy stain to reapply. A normal wood deck cleaner would be used to remove some dirt and grime, prepping for another coat.
Overall Score TWP 1500 Series at 2 Year Period: 8.5
– TWP 1500 Series (and 100 Series) have been known to provide tops in terms of durability and color retention. They have always been one of the best stains and are one of our top choices. Little to no fading on the railings. The deck surface faded to about 75% of the stain’s initial color after 2.5 years.
Product Information:
TWP Help? Search Google: TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 1500 Series
Cost: $46.99 per Gallon, $234.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based
Available Colors: 1500 Clear, 1501 Cedartone, 1502 Redwood, 1503 Dark Oak, 1504 Black Walnut, 1511 California Redwood, 1515 Honeytone, 1516 Rustic, 1520 Pecan, 1530 Natural
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Western Red Cedar
Deck Square Footage: 400
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: 1501 Cedartone
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Photos
TWP 1500 Series Stain Review Video
Applying TWP in 1503 Dark Oak to Wood Fence.
https://youtu.be/xH6RnzN4M-c
We could not be happier with the 1500 TWP Cedar tone. We love the way it looks. It was easy to apply,
Looks great!
Due to multiple contractor and other delays, a redwood deck was prepped (stripper, brightener, and sanded from rough cut to smooth) months ago. Due to other delays, it could be months longer before it’s stained. I have a large blue plastic tarp. To protect from sun, would you recommend tarping until work resumes? Or recommend against that because it might trap water? While my home is in a moderate climate zone, we do get rain, and our rainy season is approaching.
Alternatively, is there a temporary protective product that could be applied for UV protection, but wouldn’t require later removal by chemical strippers and/or sanding?
Thank you.
Thanks.
No, do not tarp. Just redo the prep with the cleaner and the brightener within 2 weeks of staining. No need to sand.
Perfect advice.👍
Thanks!
Hi. For a redwood deck and fence, we need to replace some posts and boards. All will be sanded fully smooth. While I’m guessing there’s no way to get the new wood to perfectly blend with the old wood, is there anything we can do to at least somewhat minimize the difference? FYI, the plan is to stain with Armstrong Clark semi-transparent in natural oak color. After all the sanding the wood is beautiful and we don’t want to cover it with a semi-solid or solid stain.
Thanks for your help.
Sorry but no, new and old wood is impossible to match with a semi-transparent stain. The new wood will stain lighter in color.
Thank you. What is the maximum number of months from the prior prep work (chemical stripping and sanding) that the wood safely can be exposed to the elements (e.g., UV) prior to application of the new stain? If/when that maximum is reached, would you advise tarping at that point?
Doesn’t matter. Just redo the prep of cleaning and brightening within 2 weeks of staining.
Hello,
Looking to stain a deck roughly 1 year old in rural part of Tennessee. Algae is a concern. Small deck full sun all day. Looking at the twp stains and wondering which formula would be best. I was also curious how long the stain is good in the container after being opened. If a 5 gal bucket kit was purchased would I be able to use that stain when the deck needed another coat in 2-3 years. It would be stored sealed in a conex no temperature control.
Thank you.
Use the 100 Series. Make sure to prep first with the Gemini Restore kit. It will not last 2-3 years when opened. 12 months max,
Thank you very much!
What’s the drawback of only doing one coat. Does it simply mean you’ll need to re-coat sooner than expected? Thanks.
That and you may not get a consistent color and finish. Could be blotchy with only one coat.
Hi. We’ll be staining a redwood deck and fence. We’re leaning towards the TWP 1500 series. Will one coat be sufficient on both horizontal and vertical surfaces? Also, while a stripper was used, it didn’t fully strip all areas. Will that be a problem? If so, short of reapplying a chemical stripper and brightener, can the stain in those areas be removed with a scraper or by sanding? If by sanding, what grit do you recommend? Thank you.
You need to strip all so it is applied evenly and correctly. Brighten after. Do not spot sand or scrape.
Thanks for the helpful reply.
I’ve received several contractor estimates for completing the work started (and abandoned) by the first contractor. Because of the stripper recently applied (it was Woodrich HD-80), they advised against further stripping, claiming further stripping would risk damaging the wood. Specifically, they claim that in addition to removing stain, it would remove some wood. I’m wondering if that’s a valid concern, or if the motive perhaps is to increase billable work (I assume more labor required for sanding than stripping and brightening).
If you believe sanding is a reasonable approach, would use of a grinder rather than regular sander be ok, or would that be too harsh and thus risk damaging the redwood? If grinding is a reasonable approach, what is the lowest grit you feel safe? The contractor proposes the grinding followed by light sanding to remove any swirl marks caused by the grinder and other touch-up.
Thanks again for your help.
Further stripping will not damage the wood. As far as if stripping or sanding is needed to continue, post some pics of where the old stain did not come off.
What deck preparation is required if I’m replacing 18 month old Sherwin Williams oil modified semitransparent redwood super deck stain with TWP 1500 series oil based semitransparent redwood stain?
Note. The current stain is in decent shape with no peeling.
You need to remove the Super Deck. Strip and brighten with Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits.
I am unable to purchase the 100 in my state. It was recommended to purchase the 1500 even though I need the semi-solid product.
1. They will last about the same.
2. Semi-solid colors mask the grain more so they will blend new and old wood better than semi-transparent colors.
Yes, that is my original understanding and I’m needing to buy the semi solid; but, the 1500 is is semi-transparent right? I need to hide the older wood. Thank you.
I thought the 1500 is NOT a semi-solid. As you state, I need to blend the old wood with new wood better using a semi-solid.
The TWP 1500 is semi-transparent. The TWP Semi-solid is the same VOC as the 100 Series so you cannot get it. Try another brand of semi-solid colors. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-solid-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
Regarding “ They do not use linseed oil but rather a mixture of natural and synthetic oils.”
The SDS sheet shows;
Linseed oil
8001-26-1
30 to 40%
Thanks. It is a blend, not straight linseed like other brands.
What is the best way to fix over application with TWP 1500 series?
Post pictures.
Please see attached, thank you. It is a covered porch and a rain storm came through a few hours after application. Was thoroughly power washed and lightly sanded before application. The deck has cured since then.
Try wiping it down with mineral spirits and rags. If that does not work, then you will have to remove all and start over.
Take any oil rags and soak them into water when done to avoid spontaneous combustion.
our deck has done great with TWP Cedartone stain- This year we are re-powerwashing and re-staining. We had to replace several boards- how can we get new wood to match old wood???????
You cannot. New wood will always stain lighter since it is less absorbent..
I applied twp 1500 and it looks a bit blotchy and there are some areas that were fuzzy that apparently needed sanded more . I applied two coats wet on wet .am I able to sand down the fuzzy stuff and restain or am I better off using a semi solid over this to make it look more uniform ? Either way when can I re-coat?
The prep was not properly done. All the old stain was not removed fully. You will need to remove all and start over if you want to use a TWP in a semi-transparent or even the semi-solid.
Can I use a different brand semi-solid instead without having to remove it all ?
No, you have to remove it.
What is my process for stripping and starting over . Do I need to use a floor sander ?
Strip off what you can with the RAD stripper and both additives. Sand what cannot be stripped after. Brightener last. Shoot for 95-100% removal.
Can I use 1500 series clear on deck furniture.
I have 10 gallons left over from doing all the decks and would like to
use it on all the deck furniture. It is hardwood and has been stripped to bare wood.
Yes, just one coat.
Can a second coat be applied a few days apart from the first coat? In other words; Does it have to be wet on wet? Thanks
Needs to be wet on wet. Over applying after first coat dries is bad for any penetrating stain.
I redid my deck last year with kiln dried after treatment KDAT pine. I waited several months for the mill glaze to go away and then applied one coat TWP 1500 Honey color after treating with cleaner and brighter. Very pleased with results.
Now it seems like it’s ready for a second coat. Water no longer beads up like it did originally. I’m assuming that my steps will be to use cleaner and brightener then apply a another coat of TWP 1500. No stripper will be applied. Is this correct?
In the photograph the circle on the right of the photograph is where a pot has been sitting, The deck outside of the circle has been exposed to the elements.
No need to strip, clean and brighten lightly then one coat.
We live in Charlotte NC and have a deck that was installed with pressure treated 2 by 6 boards. Size is 14 by 14, we have a couple of steps, railing on two sides and a pergola. Would seems dry enough to stain now, although top of rails, pergola and some floor boards starting to shoe grey. I am thinking of TWP 1500 on this deck. Since the deck is 5 months old, how much prep should be done? How much stain? and lastly how slick will this get after a rain? Hoping to do this in the next week or two. Thank you for your advice and guidance.
See here about new wood and prep and stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Just one coat after cleaner and brightener. TWP is not slippery.
Thank you for the link, I reviewed it and this deck has now been out in the weather for 5 months, seems okay to stain. Interesting that TWP is not on the list of stains recommended for new wood, and somewhat surprising. It seems that sticking to one brand over time is advisable. What do you think of using one thing now (new wood) and something else later?
Thank you.
Karl
Also it sounds like 2 gallons of stain sh be enough, make sense?
Thanks
We would need a total sq footage of all wood that is being stained added up to help with this.
Deck surface is 14 by 14 ft. Three stairs, rails and styles and a simple pergola. If a gallon covers 300 sq ft. seems like 2 gal sh be enough. Make sense to you?
A gallon of TWP does not cover three hundred square feet. More like 150-200 for one coat. Add it all up if you want proper help with this.
You can use the TWP now as they suggest 4-12 months of weathering. We would not switch, stick with the same brand.
Just posted a couple of follow up questions, don’t see them. On new wood you do not recommend TWP as a preferred stain. What do you recommend as a cleaner/brightener for new wood? How long sh we wait between cleaning and staining?
Thanks for your help.
Karl
Use the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit for prep if using the TWP.
I live in the San Francisco Bay Area .. What is the shortest amount of wait time that the 1500 series can be applied on a new redwood deck. Would light sanding before application quicken the wait?
TWP want 4-12 months of weathering and then prep with a cleaner and brightener for new wood. There is not a way to speed this up.
I’m convinced by this review that this is a much better way to go than what we’ve had on our deck, which is Benjamin Moore Arborcoat. Your review of the BM hives with my experience of it.
One question about the TWP stain. How soon after application could I put furniture on it? I ask because I have to do my deck half at a time and put the furniture on the other half since there’s nowhere else I can put it. So after I do the first half I’ll need to put the furniture on there to do the second half. Also, any tips for avoiding a noticeable line at that halfway point?
Also, how many gallons would I need for a 300 sq ft deck? I would use a sprayer and a brush if that matters.
Thanks!!!
Sorry, one more question…I’ve read that this shouldn’t be applied when it’s over 90 outside. Looks like there will be a stretch of a few days when it’s approaching 90 but not quite hitting it. Should I just do it then anyway? Or better to wait a couple months after stripping when it gets a little cooler? I guess neither is ideal but I’ve already started so I have to do one of those plans.
90 is a little hot for applying. Maybe do it in the am or late evening.
24 Hours for furniture. You will have to carefully stop 1/2 way on one board. About 2-3 gallons for the two coats.
Is Twp 1500 a good stain to use on a cedar deck that gets splashed with chlorine?
No deck stain will resist Chlorine Bleach. No matter what it will degrade the stain.
Hi there:) So happy that I found this site! Bought a 1970″s Pan Abode cedar log home kit. Previous owners didn’t maintain the cedar logs well. Can’t sandblast or power wash because it’s like Lincoln Logs and no chinking so water, sand etc gets through he logs into the house. So, painstakingly wire brushing and sanding old stain off to bare wood best we can. Plan on retaining in a dark mahogany semi transparent stain so can see the grain but cover well to hide any mistakes or oops. Any preference as to satin should use? Here in northern NH it’s pretty damp and New England weather. Many folks here use Sikkens products or Ben Moore “Arborcoat”. Not familiar with the products I’ve read here but will take your advice!
Thank you for what you do!!
Some pics of the house,
Robin Nolan
Shelburne, NH
Stop with the wire brushing. It can leave metal in the wood that will turn black from rust when water get on it. Best to power sand this all off if you cannot pressure wash. Once fully removed, the TWP 1500 would work very well.
is twp 1500 stain available in canada
No, it is not allowed in Canada. You can buy the TWP 200 Series and have it shipped there.
Such an incredible stain, we’re ecstatic! It beads rain like mercury and look forward to many years of satisfaction!
Thanks TWP!!!!!
Does TWP 1500 series contain paraffin oil like the TWP 200 series?
No.
I prepped and applied TWP 1500 to our cedar deck 3 or 4 years ago, and it looked fantastic. It has held up very well, but needs to be touched up. I am planning on using the same product in the same shade. Can I use deck cleaner and brightener or should I use a deck stripper and brightener before using the TWP 1500?
Use the Gemini Restore Kit. It is a Cleaner and Brightener.
Can the TWP series 1500 stain be applied over aTWP series 100 stain?
If you prep it with their kit, you should be okay.
Can this product be appiled with a garden type sprayer and then backed brushed?
Yes you can do that.
I did not have as good of luck with TWP-1500.. Evidently, it’s not a true oil base stain but a hybrid of some kind.. Floor was rolled consistently and some areas just didn’t take, leaving these shiny spots.. It’s been 2 years and contractors are talking about stripping so they can re-do with a true oil..
That is not true. TWP 1500 is not a hybrid but a true oil based stain. The issue you had is not related to the TWP stain itself but improper prep or over application or a combo of both. Doesn’t matter what brand of stain you use, if you do not prep or apply correctly, you will have issues.
Ask a Question or Post a Review…Thanks for reply. I was told it is “formulated” oil. Deck was pressure washed before staining. So TWP 1500 would not have to be stripped to go over with any oil base stain ??
TWP 1500 is a true oil based stain. You always have to strip/brighten when you switch brands. Does not matter the base.
Your issue is the first application/prep was done incorrectly. To fix, you will need to strip and brighten.
Ask a Question or Post a Review…Picture above is from 2017. This picture is same area taken March, 2019. If we went with TWP-1500 again, would you still recommend strip and brighten ? If so, do you have recommended products and process ??
Yes on the strip and brighten. That way you can make sure it fully soaks into the wood grain. Use the Restore-A-Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits and light pressure washing. It will clean up very easily.
When you apply the TWP, make sure that you apply only as much as the wood can absorb it. You can also back wipe off any excess stain that does not soak in 45-60 minutes. If you back wipe, make sure to saturate all oily rags in water when you are done and lay flat to dry.
Just thought I would post a comment regarding the application/use of TWP 1504 (Dark Walnut). It was very easy to apply using a brush which is recommended. The TWP went on as advertised. In fact, the coverage was better than expected. I let the salt treated deck boards weather a little more than a year and then pressure washed (after bleach application). Just make sure you follow the instructions. One thing that was excellent was the support from the manufacturer, AMTECO/Gemini. Any questions – no problem. I recommend this product.
cedar floor deck after power washing 20&14 how many gallons
2-3 gallons for the 2 coats applied wet on wet.
We have a relatively new (2 year old) pergola in Los Angeles… common fir construction lumber.. that was originally only given a quick coat of Ready Seal oil based stain. We now want to add far more protection to the the stability of the wood..as well as protect from the graying. We are looking at wood cleaning and then one coat of C2 Guard product (clear deep penetrating protector) and then a coat of TWP 1500 Cedartone stain. The C2 Guard is rather remarkable at deep and longer wood protection from water … not something we would have to apply again for 7 to 10 years.) The C2 Guard is designed to be good before staining. However… I do wonder of such construction lumber… will be able to receive much of the TWP stain after the C2 Guard. The C2 guard would give us much more confidence that we have given this some lasting protection…but I am wondering if it will also limit receiving any valuable stain over it that will serve color and UV values. We know that TWP 1500 has good wood protection itself… but presume not as deep and lasting as the C2 Guard which could serve as a base.
The C2 is more of a penetrating product that reacts with the alkali in the wood that “supposedly” creates an internal seal that helps to reduce rot. There is really not much proof that these products will actually work though. More of a theory. Wood has a very little amount of alkali compared to say concrete. Personally, we think these products are a gimmick. If you want to use it though, it should not hinder the TWP’s ability to work.
FYI, make sure to strip off the Ready Seal.
Thank you so much. I know there is little research to be found on that or similar products. Like a few who have used it… it seems to all in me have good waterproofing effect… but I too wonder.
Big question – when you state to strip Teady Seal… since that is an oil semi transparent and we will be putting on TEP which is oil based semi … we were not planning to sand but rather just use cleaner … scrub… power wash off. Will that be enough?
No. Use a stain stripper and a wood brightener for the prep. The RS needs to come off. Like this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Is this stain good for pool decks that use chlorine
Yes but just an FYI, all deck stains will become bleached out from excessive chlorine splashed on the wood.
My house has natural cedar stain over cedar. I am doing over deck and railings with PT should that be darker color than house ?????
Not sure what you are asking? You can do the new deck in any color you like.
Can TWP 1500 be used for cedar shake roof shingles?
Yes it can.
Oh ya…one year and look!
Hello,
We moved this comment based on you posting in the wrong product review. From the picture, it looks like when you stained the deck last year it was new. It also looks shiny and over-applied in the picture on the right. This happens when new wood is not prepped correctly and or too much stain is applied. TWP suggest 4-12 months of natural weathering for new wood and prepping with their Gemini Restore Kit before applying the one coat of stain. They also suggest another light coat in 12-24 months. All this is due to the fact that new wood is not absorbent enough to handle a 2-3 year application of stain. After these first initial steps, the reapplication time is every 2+ years.
For more info on what you possibly did wrong and how to treat new wood, please see this:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I am sanding the paint off my 104 year old covered porch. Not new or exotic wood. Thinking about TWP 1500. Amy suggestions?
That would work but for final prep, use their Gemini Restore kit after the sanding. The 1500 will soak in better if you do.
How well does the TWP 1500 series fill for some cracks in deck floor boards? As a stain I would imagine not very much for filling purposes. You have recommended I use this for my deck in a previous post and was curious. Thank you!
Hello, TWP is a penetrating stain. Penetrating stains do not “fill” cracks at all. No need to fill cracks as it is normal for wood to have some minor cracks.
I applied the stain to my mohagany deck with a 4″brush as recommended. It went on easily and seemed to penetrate. It looks beautiful! However, it’s 24 hours later and it’s still “wet”. I applied a thin layer initially, then 6 hours later, when it wasn’t yet dry, I went over it with a dry rag. The amount of stain not soaking in is unbelieveable. The decking was properly prepped and power washed several days ago and the weather is clear and dry. I was expecting better results, faster drying, but walking on it it’s wet – it stains my feet. When will it dry? Help!
Margaret. TWP is not suggested for exotic hardwoods like Mahogany. Was the Mahogany new wood? It will dry, but it could take a day or two.
We power washed our deck and sanded it. It was old (2000) and never stained. looks good now just some cracks here and there. We are thinking of staining it and not painting it. What do we need to do after sanding? wash off? let dry for a few days before staining? What stain do you recommend to still show grain but also make deck look new. TY 🙂
Light cleaning with a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. Let dry for a few days and stain. Try TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark.
I installed new pt deck
Torched deck to create burnt look
Wondering how I could uv protect with one of your clear products wanna keep look without staining was thinking tung oil but friend told me to check out TWP
as I don’t think tung oil will uv protect
Tung oil will not UV protect nor will a clear by TWP. For UV protection, you must have color/tint in the stain.
I have a mahogany deck in CT. Just had deck sanded and applied TWP 1500 Honeytone. The finish is very dull and does not have the rich luster I was expecting. What can I do to address this? More coats? Mineral spirits?
TWP is a penetrating stain that soaks into the wood grain. It is not supposed to be shiny. Adding additional coats or adding anthing on top that would create a shine would result in product failure and extreme diffculty in fixing, once it starts to fail.
I have a one year old redwood deck in Napa, California – Full sun exposure, I just stain last month with Behr Semi-transparent redwood. It looks orange-red. I plan to drum sand failed color stain off.
Questions:
1) Should I Strip & sand failed color stain off or can I just drum sand stain off?
2) What Grit sandpaper should I use to remove failed color stain?
3) What stain should I use to have a natural clear redwood grain look (Buckskin tan look)? I was thinking about TWP1500 (Clear) but concerned about full sun exposure & graying?
1. Strip what you can and then sand.
2. 60-80 grit
3. No UV protection with clear products. Need color for UV protection. Not sure what you are looking for, but would suggest that you try some samples.
If I mix the twp1500 (clear) with twp1511 (CA. Redwood) does the color become a lighter version of twp1511 (CA. Redwood).
Yes but will also have half the UV protection so it will fade faster.
I have a 20 year old cedar deck in the Seattle area. With all the rain we get up here, which stain do you recommend for wet areas like mine ? The 1500 series with less mineral spirits and more oil, or the 100 series with more mineral spirits and less oil in the product ? I understand that the 100 series has a slightly better penetration into the wood. Is that the key to longevity in my case ? I would like to get as many more years out of this deck as possible.
Use the TWP 100 Series.
Cedar deck, last coated with Sikkens SRD about 2 years ago, stripping, brightening, then applying TWP 1503. I'm replacing several rotted deck boards with new cedar. Question – should I leave those boards off the deck until finished applying TWP? I've read the aging requirement for new wood, and easiest way to NOT finish them now would be to install after finishing. Is this the right approach?
Yes you could do this. Probably easier.
We just had a brand new cedar deck installed 2 weeks ago. The contractors stressed we should pressure wash then seal or stain the new deck as soon as possible (within the next couple weeks) to prevent the wood from drying out. We live in Missouri and the weather over the last couple weeks has been rainy and severe heat. We have noticed a couple small cracks shows up on the decking boards and a large crack in one of the side boards. If we wait a few months to allow the wood to weather it will be getting into winter. Would you still suggest we wait to treat the deck or what stain/sealer would you recommend we use?
Wait to dry out and prep is the way to go. FYI, cracks are normal for exterior wood and will happened not matter stained or not.
I just had a new cedar deck built in Chicago, Illinois about 2 weeks ago. Do I need to clean and brighten it or just apply the TWP1530 stain? I would like to stain it before the winter. If I wait 3 months, I probably won't be able to stain it until next Spring. What do you suggest? Thank you.
You cannot stain this now with TWP. They want 4-12 months for weathering and yes you need to clean and brighten. See this for more info:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Hello: We live in central TN and are in the proces of building a new home. The large screened porch and the open deck area are both pressure treated pine and will have aged about 6 months before staining. I've read many of these articles and still am not sure whether to use TWP 100 or 1500. I'm guessing that 100 might be best for the sheltered, screened porch, but 1500 best for the exposed deck…but I only want to use ONE product.. Which might be best? Thank you
We would use the 1500 Series for all.
Hey, we live in Jacksonville FL and have a large deck area covered with Ipe Brazilian Hard Wood Decking. What is the most appropriate stain/sealer for this application in our environment — very warm to outright hot during the summer months, very humid and cool to cold winters with light night time freezes warming again during the day. Our deck wraps around a pool and backs-up to a nature preserve with lots of trees.
Any suggestions and recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
TWP is not suggested to exotic hardwoods. Look at one of these products:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/ipe-stain-review…
A contractor has applied a mixture of series 200 and 1500. The deck is older cedar. Last stained with Cabot. The contractor used the newer one step cleaner & over-power washed the deck. The end result is a blotchy, almost chalky appearance. It just looks terrible. My question is should the deck be stripped with the one step product or the original method with two steps. Caution to everyone. Don't let a contractor apply anything but one product. This contractor tells me he makes a practice of mixing TWP stain series. I suspect it is whatever he has on hand. The blotchy nature of the application cannot be over stayed. Also, two weeks later, stain comes up with a rag and scratches with my fingernail.
Not sure what you mean about newer One Step cleaner? Now that he over applied and mixed the stains, it will need to be stripped (not cleaned). This will not be easy as it is difficult to remove a newly applied stain and even more so when over applied. Try the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper and pressure washing to remove. You may need to strip and pressure wash a few times to remove all of the stain. Once completely removed, you can apply the RAD brightener that will neutralize the stain stripper and lighten the wood to the proper pH balance.
Hi – I live in Southern California and I am about to install some accent T&G cedar siding on my remodel, making it a bit contemporary looking. The cedar will be clear grade, but still have not decided between real red cedar and engineered cedar siding such as Coulson cedar. The wood will have lots of sun exposure, not too much rain. I'd like to preserve the natural grain of the wood as much as possible. People at Ganahl lumber were recommending Penofin, but after reading some posts and reviews I am weary of its short time to reapplication and problems with mold. I'm considering TWP 1500 and Defy extreme, but both of these appear to recommend weathering the wood a bit before application. What is your recommendation for this type of cedar application? Do you have any advice for the coulson engineered product ? Thank you!
The TWP would work well. Make sure to prep by removing the mill glaze after letting the wood season for 4+ months.
Hi – We have a combination of new redwood deck and old redwood deck. We cleaned and prepped using Restore-a-deck kit. We got samples of TWP 1500 Rustic Oak and TWP 1500 Dark Oak. Rustic was too red and dark oak seemed to look rather black in the areas that had heavy grain. What we wanted was something that was more red but darker. So we did a combination of 5:1 Rustic to Dark Oak. On our samples it looked just fine, but when testing it out it has more of a burgundy/barn red type of color which we wanted to avoid. Is there anything we can add or switch proportions of in order to get a slightly warmer shade?
If I absolutely cannot live with the shade and want to switch it the next time with Pecan, do I have to strip again or can I reapply over it? Even pecan has slightly more yellow tones than I would have liked. TWP has great reviews, but I just cannot find a color that I like unfortunately 🙁 Your advice will be greatly appreciated.
Maybe more dark oak? 50/50 or 70% rustic to 30% dark oak. Yes you will have to strip if going with the Pecan later as it is lighter in color.
Hi – I'm in Portland, Oregon and had planned on using Penofin Red Label until I read the reviews on graying. Our deck is new kiln-dried cedar all south facing to the sun at the base of a two story house. Black algae and moisture are just facts of life for any wood or roofing on any side of the house. (1) What waiting time do you recommend before cleaning, brightening and staining? (especially since it is about to hit the rainier season)? (2) What are the top 3 staining products you'd recommend for this situation? And if TWP is among them, which product and why? (3) How critical is using a brush vs. a pad for application? Am seeing conflicting advice out there. (4) What should I be concerned about if I need to do this in cooler weather (45 -55). Thanks!
1. See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
2. TWP, Defy Extreme, AC
3. Does not matter as long as it penetrates. We like pads better.
4. Cooler weather means longer dry and cure times. Cannot freeze either during this period.
HI…I prepped a new redwood deck after waiting for 4 months of letting the tannins weather in the sun. When I applied TWP 1530 Natural in the shade, on a warm day…..it worked perfectly. WhenI applied the oil stain to warm (NOT hot) boards in direct sun, I got a glaze of sorts on the sun boards, and some of the oill did not penetrate….I was speculating that because I was working over 2 days, dipping the pad directly into the 5 gallon bucket, that the volatile oils has evaporated off to some extent, leaving me with a thicker oil to apply to the warm boards…..hence the lack of penetration. What do I do to remove the extra oil from the boards on the deck??
RLPatterson
It probably started to dry in the sun before it had a chance to absorb into the wood fully. Try wiping the deck down with paint thinner and rags. You need to take precautions with your stain rags when done. We always saturate them with water to avoid accidental spontaneous combustion!
Four years ago, we stained our deck in Northern West Virginia, using Olympia semi transparent. We had let the new deck weather 6 months before staining. Not knowing better, we put 2nd coat on because the stain didn't penetrate. First winter, it started peeling. We decided to let weather for past several seasons. Now, we have sanded and are going to clean w behr cleaner and all in one. Liking the sounds of TWP. Which TWP would be better if we can't get all the semi off from previous? Area: hot, humid summers, full morning sun to full shade, heavy winters w sun, deck has under deck roof system for patio below it. Any suggestions?
You have to get it all off when switching brands. Try a stain stripper and wood brightener instead of a cleaner. Use the TWP 1500 oe 100 Series when done.
Thanks 🙂
Thank you for this terrific forum! We live in central Texas. Our hot humid summers often include many long 100-degree days. We used many of the more well-known brands over the years to great dissatisfaction, but in 2002 a 150-yer storm and flood made it necessary to replace our 1000 sq. ft. cedar deck. We were glad to see it go. And in 2003 we installed 1000 square feet of new Western Red Cedar, kiln-dried, but despaired of how to preserve it. Our deck is in full sun 12 hours a day. So my husband and I tried an experiment–we decided to test some 60 cut ends of W. Red Cedar boards after the deck was all finished, half staining them so we could also see what happened to the unstained pieces in full weather, the other half stained with every store sample deck product available to us in 2003, then left all 60 ends in the back yard (labeled for reference) in the elements, for three months. After three months, no fooling, hands down TWP was the obvious winner in (1) water resistance (beading up), (2) color-stay, and (3) moisturizing. So after 3 months of experiments, we hired "staining professionals" who sprayed on TWP series #300 (back then) Butternut on the deck. It puddled and dripped down below to a stone sidewalk, where they had great difficulty cleaning it off (after it dried on the stone). Bad application. I decided I could do no worse. So two years later when the color finally faded to yellow, I pressure washed it and prepped and after two days drying, took a sponge mop (wet it first, then wrung out) then applied a premixed 5 gallon bucket of Butternut and Redwood (purchased 6 gallons), by simply mopping it on. To my surprise I easily controlled the amount I applied and there were no puddles. The result was a beautiful Mahogany (brown with reddish highlights). We have photos. But red being the largest molecule, it burned off quickly, so the next year, 2005, I tried a radical mixture of 2 gallons #501 Cedartone (to increase penetration and moisturize), 2 gallons #502 Redwood for highlights, and 1 gallon #207 Butternut for pigment. This proved to be the best combination–durability, penetration, moisturizing the boards (like Oil of Olay on dry skin) and produced truly radiant color. In the Texas sun, however, this lasted one year. But application was a breeze, a very relaxing process, hardly any mess, and cleanup is the easiest. Plus, I could just use a new $6.00 sponge mop each year. That is, until the formula changed along about 2012. It was suggested I try a combo of #116 Rustic Oak, #103 Dark Oak, and 1502 Redwood. That formula almost lasted a year. In 2013 It was suggested I try 1516 Rustic Oak. but it lacked the color depth and duration previously achieved. Now I don't have the same great results and am relegated to using either #516 Rustic Oak or #1516… Read more »
Only the 500 Series was replaced about 7 years ago. The 1500 is the same as it always has been and the 100 has been the same since 1992. No other changes have been made. It may just be your deck has different weather patterns lately?
If you had a choice between the 100 series and 1500 series, which would you choose for your own personal deck?
They are both equally good when applied correctly. The 100 penetrates a little better and dries faster.
We have a pressure treated deck on our 2000 sq ft home in northwest Maine. Built in 1991. We recently used both stripper and power washed (this worked better than the stripper). It looks great, almost like new wood, however, there are still some small areas where, no matter how hard we tried, the solid stain would not come off. Tearing our hair out would not help either 🙂 The deck is too uneven (lots of grooves) to sand. So we feel we have done the best we can. We plan to put 1500 on the entire deck. Do you have any thoughts on this? Thank you very much.
You cannot blend a solid stain with a semi-transparent like the TWP 1500. Have you tried sanding the rest of the solid stain?
Yes, we tried sanding. Nothing works. The deck is 99% free of the other stain. We just are at wits end with the other 1%.
If you can live with the solid stain showing through a little then go ahead and stain with the TWP
Hello,
I have a pressure-treated porch that was installed 3 or 4 years ago. When it was installed, the boards were coated with a 2-year waterproofer (from Behr, I think). The vertical surfaces still have color (though not much water repelling properties) and the horizontal surfaces are quite worn. There is some mold on the wood. I'd like to stain it with either TWP 100 or 1500, but I'm unsure of the prepwork. Could you advise? Also, would the prep products harm vinyl lattice that is used on the skirting?
Thanks,
Bryan
Bryan, have to remove the Bher first before applying the TWP. Use a stain stripper and pressure wash off. Repeat if needed for difficult areas. Brighten all the wood after. Should not harm the vinyl.
What color will I get if I mix 5 gallons of black wanut 1500 twp stain into 2 gallons of honeytone 1500 twp stain??
No idea as we have never tried this combo.
I just cleaned my old pressure treated deck. It is still strong, but has a lot of cracks in the wood. Also, some minor splinters that I will cut and sand. At least one plank will be replaced. Will the TWP 1500 fill in the cracks at all? Please advise. I really rather not use a solid stain.
No a penetrating stain like TWP does not fill in cracks. The only way to do this is to use a solid stain and many of them will not fill either. Cracks in outdoor wood is normal. Best to just leave them and not worry.
I am putting in a brand new pressure treated deck and covered tongue and groove porch in the Milwaukee suburbs, which is east facing. I purchased kiln dried wood so it is ready for stain immediately after being installed. Would you recommend using TWP 1500 or TWP 100 for the project. I have read on several sites that the 100 is a better product. Thanks.
You should not stain kiln dried right away with TWP. Let sit out side for a month then clean and brighten for prep to remove the mill glaze. Use 100 Series.
Were in MN and just had a new 500sq ft cedar deck built. I was planning on staining with a semi transparent Sikkens as suggested by our contractor, but after going through your site i think we may use TWP instead. Is the 1500 series the best bet for nearly full sun, Southwest facing? MN winters and young kids as well…. thanks so much!
Yes that would be a good option for this deck and future ease of maintenance.
Do you have to put two coats on no matter what for TWP.
Not if new wood or if you are doing a maintenance coat of the TWP with the same.
After doing a detailed perusal of the reviews for all of the stains, the TWP 1500 appears to the best one for my project. We have a 1-year old pergola (just posts and cross beams, no walking surface built of pressure treated pine over paver patio. Unfortunately, after it was built in early summer of last year, it was not treated in any way (the plan was to stain at the end of the summer, after 1-2 months, but life got in the way), so now we are trying to determine the best approach and product for staining the pergola now that the bare pine has been exposed for about 12 months, including a harsh Ohio winter. Do you think the TWP 1500 is the right product for this project or is another product recommended? And what prepping should we do? Cleaner and brightener before stain?
Yes the 1500 would be a good option for this pergola in Ohio. Yes use the Gemini Restore Kit for the prep.
I live California in the Sacramento area. Spent weeks filling all the nail holes and sanding the entire deck.used twp 1500 clear it looked great. We had a very mild winter very little rain. I now have black mold everywhere that is not under patio cover.now I will have redo eveything.
Couple of questions. Are you sure it is mold? It could be rust stains that look like mold. This could be due to how you sanded. If is is mold, is it \”in\” the stain or laying on top of the stain? TWP prevents mold growth in the stain but no stain or sealer on the market can stop mold from laying on top of the stain.
You might look into add a mildicide to TWP. Just a thought
I had a similar problem on certain areas of my deck. Since I only sanded a few areas I came to the conclusion that it was metal flakes/dust on the wood from sanding the screws. When it got wet it left dark stains on the boards. You will notice the same color around any fastener which is not weatherproofed in some fashion. I made a point to not sand the screws from there on out.
We have cedar siding that we've been staining with Sikkens ever since it was new, 24 years ago. Would we be better off sticking with Sikkens or switching to TWP 1501(cedartone)? We're in western Mass, next to Vt. The Sikkens has a beautiful luster and performs well on the north and east sides, but not as well on the south and west because of sun and weather. Thanks! And thanks for operating this excellent site.
For you to switch you would have to strip or remove all of the Sikkens and I am not sure you want to do that? TWP also does not have a shine/lustre so it may not have the same look you want? It is a penetrating oil based stain that has a matte or no shine.
Do NOT… I repeat Do NOT change at this point. I build an all redwood home 27 years ago here in Missouri. Sikkens is great, provided you do recoat it every 3 years… otherwise it will start to peel (like varnish), and the only way to restore it is to sand back to bare wood… Also, do NOT use Sikkens on any horizontal surface, as it will peel within the year. How do I know all this? Well, how many people have actually sanded and recoated a 4,500 sf house, and 1,500 sf of redwood deck (including all 441 stiles)??? Now, I use nothing but semi transparent oil based stain on the deck, and a "refresher" coat of Sikkens every 3 years… as much as I love the looks of the redwood… I'm getting to the age where I almost wish I'd bricked the whole thing…
Used TWP 1500 on my new deck 2 years ago. I built the deck with pine and after 3 months of the recommended drying process I stained it. 2/3 of the deck is covered and the uncovered part is already fading and the stain is thinning. All of the AZ sun exposed areas are fading even faster and the wood is drying out. This week I had some stain left over so I decided to restain the stairs and some of the heavily sun exposed areas. Before I stained them I used a steel brush and then a broom on the wood to knock off any dirty and loose particles. The stairs really soaked up the stain and turned darker than the original first staining. My wife and I really like the darker color and it looks like it will last much longer than the first staining. I think 4 to 6 months of new wood cure time would be better for green wood. The sap in the wood also keeps the stain from penetrating into the wood and time is the only cure for that to leach out. Restaing the deck after 2 years is disappointing but hopefully it will last longer this time and I wont regret painting it in the first place.
We are having a 12 x 16 deck built using Cedar. We are in Northern Ohio and the beginning of winter starting soon. We are wondering whether we should seal the deck now or wait until Spring. Warmer sunny days are a rarity now rather than the norm. Will it hurt any if we do decide to wait until Spring to do this? I hate the thought of trapping moisture into the wood right now by sealing it.
please read this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Is staining and sealing one in the same? I am assuming it is and that this article is for both treated and Cedar Decks. We were worried that the Cedar would start to lose its natural color if we waited until Spring…We want to keep it Natural and not turn Gray
Deck Stains seal wood as well but sealers do not necessarily have color so they will not prevent UV graying. Best are semi-transparent stains like TWP for penetration and color retention.
I live in upstate new York. I applied Twp 1500 in the summer of 2013 to my house which is sided in pine board an batten siding. The south side of the house which is completely exposed to the sun and weather has shown some spots that look like it might need another application just where there are knots in the wood and a few full length boards look very dry. Where the knot are they are sort of whitening out/ slash looking very dry. I was wondering what the process is to reapply twp 1500? Do you have to clean and brighten the wood or should just hit the knots with twp 1500 and wipe off the excess?
Knots are of higher density of wood and it is normal for a penetrating stain to be lighter in color around them. You could try touching up a pot and wiping off the excess. I would suspect though that ti will just lighten up again in a day.
Hello, we're going through the painful process of stripping / sanding a solid Behr stain applied by the previous owner and replacing a few rotten boards in our deck, we suspect the original ones were PTW or cedar, we're replacing with cedar. We're planning to stain with TWP1503 after using the RAD brightener. We're in Northern IL, so we get hot summer days and snow and lots of cold in the winter. My questions:
1. Should we stain this fall or wait until the spring? There are some boards that, while not truly rotten, seem like they could use a little "drying" time, e.g. the upper surface in some boards looks a little "slimy", especially where the stain was particularly thick and the sun didn't hit very hard.
2. Any suggestions on how to remove the "mill glaze" in the newer boards?
3. Are there any downsides to just priming and painting the vertical surfaces with a good primer and exterior paint? We don't have much of an issue having them be a different color.
Thanks again for all the info!!!
1. You could let it weather until Spring and ten clean and brighten for the final prep.
2. Weathering and the cleaner will remove the mill glaze.
3. Bad idea on this as it will peel.
Hi. I need to stain/seal our 20 year old deck (about 500-600 sq. ft.). It's made of treated pine and has been sealed with Thompson's (or the like) several times in the past (but not in about 5 years, maybe longer). Can I just pressure wash it and then apply a new stain/sealer? And which sealer would you recommend? This is in the Texas gulf coast area. Thanks.
If just gray and not repelling water then use a deck cleaner while pressure washing and brighten after. Use the Gemini Restore Kit. Stain with the TWP.
Thanks. Also, I can't decide whether to put on a transparent type seal or something like a painted look. I like the painted look better, but I'm hesitant to go that route because I feel like it would scratch easily like paint would. I really just want to use whatever is going to protect the best and last the longest. What are your thoughts? If you tell me TWP, which one?
Solid stains do not scratch but they do peel. We like the penetrating oil based stains because of this. Use the 1500 for the wood.
Whoever it is that I'm talking to – THANK YOU SO MUCH. I will now go and spend some money. 🙂
Oops. I forgot to tell you that part of this deck is in total sun, and other parts in total shade. In one area there is some mold/mildew that gets black. Should I still use the TWP 1500 (oil based)? Or should I use a water based stain (I was thinking Defy Extreme)? And do you still suggest the Gemini Restore Kit? Thank you.
Use the 1500 and yes on the Gemini Kit.
I used TWP 1500 Cedartone to refinish one of the largest western red cedar homes on the east coast and it came out looking fantastic compared to products used in previous refinishing. Preparation involved using a two gallon pump sprayer to apply a wood cleaner and brightener, and a light power wash. One coat of TWP was applied with a 5" wide natural hair brush. Application was easy, no runs or visible overlapping. Color appears to be consistent over entire job. Previous products required 20 gallons for job and, with liberal application, I completed job with only 15 gallons of TWP 1500. My only concern now is the durability and appearance over time. I found that Superdeck products, that I used in passed, maintain good appearance for about 2 years ( although I refinish every 5-6 years) and start to look dingy and grey after that. I am looking forward to seeing how TWP lasts over time. Pictures : http://www.8seacrest.com
I don't know why anyone would use a 5" brush. I've done several dozen decks with TWP and we strip them, and then use HVLP to spray them.
A couple years ago I stripped my oldish deck and stained with Cabot Australian Timber Oil, Jarred Brown and loved it. This year, I pressure washed (lightly, just to clean) and started to add a new coat but ran out. Tried to buy more but discovered nobody in my area sells it anymore and then discovered why. (formula change) Obviously I do not want to strip my whole deck which doesn't look bad at all. Is there any possibility of finishing this new coat with another product since I can't buy Cabot anymore (and apparently wouldn't want to with the formula change)?
No you should never apply a different brand of stain without removing first.
We have a deck made of cambara and ipe that is 5 years old. When new it was treated with Penofin which lasted about 6 months. A second treatment with Penofin lasted about another 6 months. Then we tried Thompsons Water Seal. That allowed the water to bead on the surface but not much else. The deck has turned grey but has been recently power washed. We live in New Hampshire and the deck goes thru hot summers and cold winters (we keep the snow shoveled off the deck in winter). Our research for a new finish has us thinking of two options – TWP1500 or a urethane finish from US Coating Solutions.
Looking for advise and recommendations please.
Never put a urethane on outside wood! You need an exotic hardwood stain. TWP 1500 is not one. With your wood type you will need to reapply every year. Nothing will last longer. Do not believe any claims otherwise from other manufacturers. Look at Armstrong Clark in one of their hardwood colors Defy Hardwood Stain.
I have a 50 ' x 20' older deck of treated wood. Some of the boards are being replaced. We just power washed the entire deck and would like to apply a stain. This is a pool area deck that gets mostly full sun. I read that we should wait 2 weeks for the new boards? And do I need to prep with anything or just use the TWP 1500? Thanks
Prep with their Gemini Restore Kit. You should wait a month or so.
I'm looking for a light finish for my deck while still getting some UV protection. Don't want it too yellow. Would you recommend the Natural Tone or Cedar Tone? It's hard to tell the difference.
Natural is carmel color while the cedartone is a little more brown.
What color is the deck in the picture? Thanks
1530 Natural
I live in south Florida and have a 6 month old pressure treated pine deck, approximately 2500sqft. Half of the deck gets full sun and the other half gets 1/2 sun. Part of the deck is around a pool, so is exposed to water on a daily basis. I have decided to use TWP in honeytone, but wondering whether to use the TWP 100 or 1500? What is the benefit of 1 over the other? I plan on using the cleaner/brightener prior to stain.
Clay, TWP 1500 will give a little better Uv protection while the 100 will penetrate better and wear better. Both will last about the same though.
Thanks for the info! Which is better for water protection? I’m leaning toward using the TWP 100 at this point.
TWP 100
We have freshly milled redwood siding from reclaimed tank staves. We were thinking about going to Penofin route but after reading reviews it seems we should check out other options. It will all be vertical surfaces in Western WA. Our biggest concern is protection from graying, no mold, and ease of application and of course durability. We have over 1200 sq ft to do. We are planning on prefinishing before application.
What would you recommend as the best product for new wood? We thought we would lightly sand each piece to open up the pores. We've also been told by the mill that this redwood is fairly absorbent.
I ordered samples of the Defy Extreme and TWP 1500. Seems like one is water based and one oil based. Opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Both are good choices and will work well for this vertical redwood. Oils in general apply easier as they do not dry as quickly. Both will do well with color retention and mold. It\’s a toss up as you will be happy with either. Might just come down to color.
So glad I stumbled upon this website! I live in Northern NJ and have two PTW decks which are in bad need of refinishing. No idea what product was used to stain them previously. I had planned on using a Benjamin Moore stain but after reading all the awful reviews TWP seems like a much wiser choice! I was told that to prep the decks I only need to use cleaner and brightener, but do you recommend stripping them too? One of the decks is by our pool….do I have to use different products to clean and strip that area? Thanks for your advice!
If you have a different old stain than you should strip and brighten for prep.
I have three comments / questions:
1) I have a 196sf CCA deck ready to apply 'Olympic Rescue It' tinted Winning Red – should go down ok,
2) All original cedar railings have been removed and 6" x 6" cedar posts have been sanded smooth ( to remove old Cetol stain ). will apply TWP 1502 Redwood stain. Same on newly constructed deck and stair rails. Using DecKorator's black Al balusters,
3) now to the main question – I have removed and replaced the eight CCA steps from the deck to the patio with new YellaWood planks. I sanded the cedar risers smooth. I have CCA stair stringers exposed on either end.
What is the BEST stain to use on these surfaces? Brand and type ( semi-trans or opaque? )
Thx
I would use the TWP for these but you will need to let it season for some time.
Selling 5 gallons brand new of twp 1500 dark oak near Philadelphia
Go look on philadelphia Craig's list.
We purchased it for our deck but we changed our mind and we're trying to avoid shipping it back.
Jessica e Rich at gmail dot com
We live in the Greater Toronto area and have a very large, approx 12 year old red cedar deck. It is built around a large Maple tree and is therefore in shade for most of the summer months. When we moved in approx 8 yrs ago, the deck had never been treated and had greyed. We cleaned the deck and applied a Behr product which did not wear well at all. We ended up removing it and sanding the whole deck. At that time we had used Cabot's Australian Timber oil and loved the way it performed. It lasted for several years with an occasional touch up on spots that saw more sun. Last year we re sanded again as we had to replace sections that were rotting. We were fortunate to have scrounged enough Cabot's Australian Timber oil from leftovers and family who used the same product. We used it sparingly so that it would be enough for our whole deck (approx 900 sq ft). Right now, we'd like to reapply something that would help maintain our work from last year. Would the TWP 1500 work for us?
Joe, TWP is not legal for Canada according to manufacturer. Look at Armstrong Clark.
I am building a wood pergola in St. George Utah. The climate is simular to Phoenix, but a little colder in the winters. It gets VERY hot here in the summers with 15 hours of blasting sunlight in the summer. Other pergolas here seem to chip (both the stain and the wood seperate) and crack. What product would you reccomend for this extreem weather environment?
Sam, try the Armstrong Clark or the TWP 1500 Series.
Hi!
We built a deck in June/July of last summer with new, wolmanized wood. We waited to stain until now. I'm wondering if you would recommend the TWP 1500, one of the Defy's, or the Armstrong for our deck. We live in western Pennsylvania and the deck gets full sun. Also — is a good scrubbing with a pressure washer enough? Or do we really need to apply a cleaner and brightener? One or two coats? Love your site!
Thanks!
Kristi, yes you need a cleaner and brightener for the prep. I would suggest the Armstrong Clark stain for this. 2 light coats wet on wet application.
thanks for getting back to me! so — if we use the cleaner – can we get away with not using the brightener (just trying to cut down on cost)? also – does the cleaner take the place of power washing — or do we power wash first and then use the cleaner? can you recommend a good cleaner?
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP! 🙂
Kristi, you apply the cleaner first than pressure was off. Best to use both. Brightener is used to neutralize the cleaner.
Hello,
I'm building an arbor for wisteria vines out of either new pressure-treated pine or new redwood. I live in the Southern California high desert, extreme sun conditions almost all year round, summer temps regularly up over 100 degrees, winter temps dip below freezing for a few weeks out of the season, very little snow or rain, but when it does precipitate, it is hard and heavy. So, weather conditions are extreme. However, eventually, if all goes well, the wisteria will grow over and shade much of the wood, the arbor is being build on the east side of the house, there is a shade tree on the south side of the arbor, etc., so there will be some 'protection'. HOWEVER, when the wisteria has grown over the structure, cleaning, re-sealing, etc. won't really be an option… so with all of that said… what do you recommend for a stain/sealant? I'd love to stain/seal all the wood before assembly, but have heard you should wait up to a year for the wood to weather and acclimate itself? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!
RimrockRancher, with TWP you will need to wait at least a few months. Really should wait with any brand as the stain will have difficulty penetrating now. Armstrong Clark will penetrate new wood better. If we were doing the job we would have it installed, prep with a cleaner and wood brightener after a few months, then stains with a color like Amber in the Armstrong Clark.
We bought the cedartone stain for a new treated deck. We waited 5 months before applying and had a professional stain the deck for us. The color is peach to orange and looks bad. It is flat and what I would say cheap looking. Not happy at all with this product. I was hoping to use on all our decks, but I am done with this product and will look at getting stained a better color with a better product.
Jay, TWP and most decking stains will have a \”flat\” non shiny appearance as they are penetrating semi-transparent stains. They do not film on top of the wood, creating a shine. Shiny coatings on a deck create major issues with peeling and mold. Always best to test colors out first as well. Many companies offer samples. Sorry you did not like the appearance.
I am building a new home and using Western Red Cedar tongue and groove siding. Home will be done by mid summer 2014. Milwaukee Wisconsin area.
The Western Red Cedar Lumber Association strongly recommends pre staining, and staining ALL sides of the cedar. TWP has directly told me NOT to do this, to only stain the exposed area, and only do so after 6-12 months of exposure (using the gemini restore kit first).
I know you guys here really like TWP, but I have also read it is not your favorite for brand new weed, or first time applications. Can you give me your thoughts on back staining siding and what stain you do recommend for first time application? the cedar association strongly recommended applying stain before the wood is exposed to elements. It just makes sense to me, but I do not want to use a stain that will peel or fail.
Thanks, looking forward to your comments.
Mike, as contractors we never pre stain all sides prior to install. The stain is really just for exposed areas and would have little to no benefit for the back (unexposed) areas. All stains are different though so best to follow manufacturers suggestion on this. For new wood we like to use Armstrong Clark as it does penetrate the wood better. Either TWP or Armstrong should have new wood season for a time before install. A light cleaning is needed as well to open the grain and remove the mill glaze. This articles will explain better: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Hello, I'm planning to stain a pine privacy fence about 190' in length and 4.5' tall and a small deck area about 100 square feet. How many gallons of TWP 1500 stain would I need to cover this area? The RAD product description says how many feet of fence it can clean…is there something similar for TWP 1500 stain? Thanks. -Steve
Steve, what is the total sq. footage and I assume you are doing both sides of the fence?
Yes, both sides of the fence. The total square footage I calculate is 1,810 (190' L x 4.5' H x 2 [both sides of the fence] + 100 sq ft for the deck). Is my calculation on point or is there a better method?
Coverage is about 150-200 for the first coat and 200-300 for the second coat. You would need about 15-20 gallons for the 1810 sq. feet.
Hello, just want to thank you for this awesome site…ok so I rented a floor sander and brought splintered deck to smooth surface. I stripped and brightened my 8 year old redwood deck…I chose 3 gallons of California Redwood. Will that be enough for my 600 sq. ft. deck…plan on doing two coats?
Rebecca, for one coat you would want about 4 gallons and for 2 coats you would need 6 gallons. Two coats \”wet on wet\” only if the wood is very thirsty and the first coat penetrates in deeply.
Let me save you some hassle…be prepared to ensure perfect wood conditions prior to application.
I bought 5 gallons of TWP1500 for three separate applications:
#1 – a 12 yr old fence/pergola prevoiusly treat with Olympic semi transparent stain prior to VOC regulations (lasted very well). To prepare wood: I stripped then neutralized using a oxalic acid based brightner
#2 – a 6 month old untreated swimming deck. To prepare wood: I used a deck cleaner with stiff bristle brush to remove mill glaze, etc
#3 – a 3 yr old deck previously treated with newer voc compliant Olympic stain which would only last one season on horizontal decking. To prepare wood: the deck had not been treated in 2 years and, since the horizontal surfaces were virtually barren of any color or water resistance I used a stiff brush and deck cleaner.
All surfaces were power washed and left to dry for over a week. We've had a very long dry spell in the North East. Daytime temps have been mid 70's to lower 80's and low humidity.
Results are mixed but overall disappointing. On projects #1 and #2 surface preparation was by recommended procedure, however, on all three projects there are areas that simply have not dried after 7 days of curing. This seems to be directly related to the specific areas of the wood, maybe knots or denser areas, and also areas that may not have been stripped or prepared perfectly. They simple would not totally absorb the stain. What is left is a sticky puddle with no apparent ability to dry.
Now to be fair TWP label says areas must be stripped, etc .. but let me tell you THEY MEAN IT. Residue seems to be a bees-wax like consistency and now will require some form of remediation. Even on the fence project , which was thoroughly and methodically stripped, I still have areas the will not dry. It seems a product designed to "perfect wood conditions" Is it possible that this VOC compliant product must be manufactured in such a way the significantly effects its ability to absorb? I would love to have the "non-compliant" Series 100 to see the difference.
To help remediate the condition (which by no means do I recommend nor do I know the long term effects) I took a heat gun and briefly (3 or 4 seconds) warmed the area. like I said ..it seems like bees wax.. then wiping with an old cotton cloth. The result removes the sticky puddles but the surface is very slippery… not something I want on a deck nor do I want the hassle of doing this of several hundred square feet.
I say that I will not use the product again but I am not sure anybody living in VOC complaint states have much of a choice (if this is in fact the reason behind the performance of this product.)
Jon, sorry you had drying issues. As contractors we have found that there are two reasons a stain will not dry correctly. Over applying, improper prep, or combination of both. If the stain absorbs 100% into the wood then it will not have any issues. If it cannot absorb into the wood all the way then the stain will \”film\” on top of the wood, creating shiny spots and stickiness. As contractors it is easy for us to understand how much stain is enough. As a homeowner it can be difficult to understand that \”more is not better\” and to know when you are over applying.
This is a valid point but this can happen with any stain brand and more so with VOC stains. We will write a article soon on the subject.
Thanks for the post.
I wanted to make a comment on what Jon typed about TWP 1500 series. I just finished a large project using to TWP 100 series on new wood – old wood – treated and cedar – various mix of woods. I tried the darkest color in the 1500 series on one of my post caps only to experiment as I wanted dark caps. I did notice a difference in how long it took for the 1500 series to dry compared to the 100 series. I'm almost 100% percent sure I applied to much stain on it because a lot of cracks and crevices to get into…but the other post cap I did the same thing on using the 100 series. I didn't however see any sticky stuff the next day on that one. I can see where being conservative with the brush on the 1500 series might be good. The 100 series is a little more forgiving as I think unless you are heavy handed with the second coat it dries right up like the first coat.
i still dont know the difference between TWF 1500 and TWF 100. How to know which is better in which circumstanses? Please advise. thank you.
Thomas, it is mainly a VOC difference. Where do you live?
michigan. cold winters, alot of snow, hot summers.
Thomas, either the 100 or 1500 Series for MI. I believe most use the 100 Series there.
Greetings. I posted earlier regarding a 20 plus year old pressure treated deck exposed to all the element in Northern Vermont. Hardly ever treated, wood exposed to the sun is cracked and has deteriorated in some sections. Areas not receiving the full brunt of the sun are remarkably in good shape after hours and hours of power washing to remove dirt, grit and mold. Wanting to get down to to bare wood, I have also done a great deal of power sanding – most sections look almost brand new.. The boards that don't look new will be flipped to use the underside. Question – should I use TWP 150o this fall after using the wood restore product or wait until the spring to allow the pore of the wood to open?
Thanks!
Michael, I would wait until Spring. It will work better that way. Might want to consider the 100 Series if available in your area. It penetrates a little better.
Ann, yes you need to clean and brighten after heavy sanding. This will remove the dust and open the grain of the wood so the stain can penetrate deeper. You still have plenty of time to stain.
I have a new picnic table and bench set made out of pressure treated yellow pine that has not been stained or sealed. I want to apply a light color stain/sealer to it, would TWP-1500 be the best product? If so, would one application be enough since it is new and would I need to use any type of cleanser/brightner prior to applying the stain. My goal is to use a 2-gal pump sprayer to apply the stain.
Gary, please read this article on staining new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I have a new cedar deck in Seattle and unsure whether to stain now (September), weather permitting, or just wait next summer. From what I've read on your awesome website, I could use Armstrong Clark now, or I could wait until say July next year and use Defy Extreme or TWP 1500. I prefer to delay, but I'm wondering if there's a significant advantage to staining now. Thanks.
Leslie, it would not hurt to get something on the wood now. Armstrong is an excellent product. You could apply one coat now and another next year.
Hi – I've have a pressure treated fence that is three years old, a deck that has just been added onto so it is a combo of old and new. Old part of deck just stripped – new part of deck added last summer and steps just finished two weeks ago. I am confused if I can/should use the same stain on all of it. Floors are yellowwood and rails are cedar with iron balusters. I have samples of messmers and TWP (both 100 and 1500) and like the looks of the TWP stain better but have only tried it on the fence so far. What advice can you give me? I'm in Missouri and deck gets full sun most of the day.
Tammi, same stain for all the wood. I would use the 100 Series for this. Make sure all the wood is prepped first.
So just to make sure I understand – I should clean and brighten old and new wood both and TWP will be fine on newer parts ? From reading other posts it sounded like I should not use it on newer wood ? Also thought about just leaving steps until spring – would that be better choice?
Tammi, since it is just the steps I would do it all. You can always touch up the steps next year as needed.
Great – thank you so much. As others have stated, reading advice not only on our own decks but others helps a lot. Appreciate it.
Thanks for the advice – my deck turned out awesome . I used the 100 series – Pecan color- it all looks great. If anyone questions using the cleaner and brightner – it makes all the difference. I stripped off some very dark Behr stain/paint on my older deck- cleaned and brightened everything and the whole deck looked the same color before starting. Very happy with the results. I did have a scrubby brush and a power washer. I do not think I would of gotten the same results with a garden hose. That mill glaze is like snot when scrubbing it off- I can tell on the parts that didn't get as much scrubbing that the stain just kind of dries on top. After almost completing the whole process – the staining part is the easiest and the cleaning/prep part is the hardest but most important!
Glad to be of help!
Will TWP 1500 clear work well on a Gloster teak outdoor table which is exposed to the harsh sun near the beach in so Cal? Would you recommend something else?
Also, which TWP color would you recommend to maintain the natural IPE color of a deck, again exposed to So Cal sun?
Deck Master, the clear will gray in months. Need a tint. 1515 Honeytone is the lightest.
Between TWP 1500, Defy Epoxy and Defy Extreme, which would be best to use on OLD siding previously sealed with Penofin's rosewood-nut oil?
Which will:
1. resist Mildew growth?
2. not darken as it ages?
3. allow the many colors of cedar to show through?
4. reinflate the cellular structure of the wood?
What chemical should be used to strip the Penofin?
Do you know any contractors in Los Angeles who have used any of these three sealer-stains?
Thank you for this site. I have learned a lot,
Bill, you are very limited for LA and I believe only the TWP 1500 can be used there. TWP is a registered EPA product for mold prevention and it does not darken over time but lightens. The Restore A Deck Stripper or HD80 for the removal of the Penofin. Brighten when done.
Does anyone have comments on whether TWP 1500 cedartone or redwood is a better color – for staining a fence. Thanks!
RLH, either is fine. The Redwood is pretty red.
What store location is in my area, I am in Walnut Creek, CA 94596
Just applied 1500 to cedar deck, had 15 hours to dry before raining for 2 days now. I can see that the water is not soaking into the wood (looks to have a good seal). Question is I can see oily residue in rain water that is puddling on the deck, did it not have enough dry time? Have not even walked on it or put furniture back as it has not dried yet fom the rain.
David, it may not be completely cured. I would leave it alone and let it dry out after raining. Most likely it is fine.