Update 2019 for TWP 1500 Series Reviews and Ratings
Here at DeckStainHelp.com we take pride in the fact that we have become the Internet’s number one resource for all things exterior wood and deck restoration related. As years before, our customers who have used TWP wood and deck stain continue to be satisfied by the appearance and longevity of their deck stain projects. If you have used TWP wood and deck stain in the past, or if you are using it for the first time this year, we appreciate your input, so feel free to leave a comment below and pictures of your completed projects if you have them.
TWP 1500 Stain Review
Important Note: This is an updated 2019 TWP 1500 Series Review.
TWP® (Total Wood Preservative) 1500 Series Deck Stain was brought onto the market in 2010 as the permanent substitute for TWP 500 Series. TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain is a semi-transparent, oil based, EPA registered wood preservative.
TWP 1500 Stain is specially formulated to use on all exterior wood surfaces. Its outstanding UV resistant blend prevents wood graying and discoloration. It is commonly used on decks, fences, log cabins, wood siding, and cedar shakes. It is offered in 10 shades that enhance the natural beauty of the wood.
TWP 1500 Deck Stain Rating
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
– The appearance of TWP 1500 Wood Stain on our test deck was a warm rich finish. The wood grain was enhanced and highlighted effortlessly. The 1501 Cedartone color was a little browner (not as orange) than a conventional cedar stain color.
TWP 1501 Cedartone
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9
– At the 2-year mark, TWP was holding up well against UV graying. This was one of the top deck stains tested as far as reflecting UV radiation that typically creates wood fading and discoloring issues. TWP 1500 retained about 80% of its initial color at 1 year and 70% at 2 years.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
– TWP 1500 displayed zero signs of peeling and only a slight amount of wear. TWP is not film forming. The stain dives deep into the wood fibers, which reduces any chance or wearing or peeling on the wood surface.
Cost Per Square Foot: 8.5
– TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain cost us $39 per gallon. We applied 2 coats “wet on wet” to our 400 square foot test deck. Coverage for the TWP 1500 was 125 square feet per gallon for 2 coats applied wet on wet. The cost broke down per square foot was .35 cents.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9
– In our testing of oil based deck stains, TWP 1500 offered one of the best resistances to mold spores and fungal growth, which some oil-based stains are known to attract. This was most likely due to the EPA registered mildewcides in the TWP formula. Also contributing to the lack of spores is the use of synthetic and natural oils and a limited amount of linseed oil, which has been known to promote mildew growth.
Ease of Application: 8
– TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain applied fairly well for an oil-based formula. It was necessary to back brush or wipe excess stain to get a nice even finish. TWP 1500 Series Stain dried within 6 hours and we were able to place items back on the deck.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
–At the 2-year inspection, no noticeable darkening was apparent like we have seen with other oil stains. The 1501 Cedartone color essentially lightened up a bit giving a more natural appearance.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
– We are confident that the TWP 1500 Wood Stain would be easy to recoat. A quality deck cleaner could be used to remove common dirt and grime prior to re-staining with TWP 1500 again.
Overall Score TWP 1500 Series at 2 Year Period: 8.5
– The TWP products like 1500 and 100 Series Stains are known to produce a durable long lasting finish. They have always been a favorite of ours and are consistently one of our top choice stains. We personally use the TWP stains on 300+ deck restorations annually. Ease of application, a beautiful finish, and easy recoating makes TWP 1500 an outstanding professional grade stain for all exterior wood projects.
Product Information:
TWP Help? Search Google: TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 1500 Series
TWP Stain Facebook Page: TWP Deck and Wood Stains
Cost: $39 per Gallon, $195 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based
Available Colors: 1500 Clear, 1501 Cedartone, 1502 Redwood, 1503 Dark Oak, 1504 Black Walnut, 1511 California Redwood, 1515 Honeytone, 1516 Rustic, 1520 Pecan, 1530 Natural
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Cedar
Deck Square Footage: 400
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: 1501 Cedartone
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take inconsideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Hi – if you could answer a few questions, please.
1. What’s the difference between TWP-100 and 1500? Can’t seem to find that info. We live in NY State – Buffalo NY – and want to seal (not necessarily stain) our 14 month old PT pine wood deck. It has been power washed and is ready for treatment. Read somewhere that NY doesn’t allow the use of the 100, have to use the 1500, but also read reviews that 1500 isn’t as good as the 100 in all respects. Do you have a recommendation as to which product to use? Doesn’t have to be the TWP – could be any other one you recommend, like Defy Extreme (one we also looked at) or another product.
2. Another Q: Are stains also sealers? We’d like to just seal the wood without staining, but if we have to use a stain, the least pigmented one is what we prefer. Understanding that the more opaque the better the prevention and the longer time between maintenance, we like the color of the wood as-is and would prefer not to add color if avoidable.
Also, we have 5 almost 10×10 posts and pergola tops that would need to be sealed at the least. Since they won’t be walked on, what could we use for those that would last the longest, seeing as we have snow, and now with climate change rain and humidity are becoming a challenge?
3. Lastly, I’ve read that water based stains/sealers have to be sanded off, whereas oil based stains/sealers can just be power washed when the time comes to redo. It seems like that should be just the opposite. The Q is: Is that true? Since redoing would have to be done every 2-3 years, we’d obviously like the easiest way to do that, by just power washing and not having to sand. The deck is 13×32 and would be a job to sand.
Thank you for your help. Really need to get this done before the temperature drops further and it can’t be done this year, and trying to figure out which to use by reading reviews is frustrating. Seems they ALL have good and bad reviews, which makes it even worse to choose.
Attached is a picture of the deck. The yellow marks at the top indicate the pergola tops which haven’t been installed yet, and the red marks you can ignore. Hope it’s large enough for you to see.
1. VOCs fo certain states. The TWP 1500 is what you use for NY and works just as good as the 100 series.
2. Stains are sealers. You must have a stain if you want to prevent UV graying. Use a semi-transparent stain like the TWP.
3. Depends on the brand, not the base type. See here for our top brands that can be cleaned and recoated as needed: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
You should also read this about new wood as you cannot stain this brand new deck yet: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
My understanding of “new wood” from reading stuff is wood that’s not been weathered. This deck’s been weathered for 14 months, so I wouldn’t think it would be considered “new wood”.
The pergola top is new so best to wait until weathered and stain all at the same time.
Should I use TWP WS20 on a glider I sanded down to the bare wood or the TWP 1500
TWP 1500.
I installed all new decking on a second story deck about a month ago. I used cedar boards. I love the new look of the deck and would like to keep it this way. I’ve read some of your reviews saying I need to wait 4 months or more before applying a sealer. If I do that it will have to wait until spring and we have harsh winter here in Wisconsin and I’m concerned I will loose the fresh new look of the deck by then. Is there a product I can apply now instead of waiting? Thanks.
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Existing weathered grey redwood deck
How best match new decking-only 5% of deck
See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-blend-new-and-old-deck-boards/
We live outside Nashville, TN and our deck gets full-sun in the afternoon and we have trees that help shade parts of it. We have used 2 different products on our deck and haven’t been happy with either. In 2008 we used Sherwin Williams Clear Deckscapes Advanced Waterbourne Formula. In or around 2011 or 2012 we used Olympic Maximum Clear Waterproofing Sealant. We are very late in re-sealing the deck, but I just pressure washed with 2200 to 2500 PSI with a 15 degree nozzle. from reading the posts, that is really high, but that was what it took to get off the black surface. In some areas it damaged the wood on the surface or made it fuzzy looking. I am posting pictures of what it looks like after pressure washing and have several questions on what to do and use to get it looking great again. 1. (Image 1) I have a few boards that are warping and pulling up the screws. Can I turn these over and reuse, try to re-secure with a new screw, or replace them? 2. (Image 2) The wood we used is YellaWood and some boards have a much more prominent grain. With age this seems to be more pronounced almost looking wet all the time. Is there anything I can do to make it blend better? 3. (Image 3) In the center of the large area of deck we had a teak table and chairs. It looks like the wood has a black cast to it. Is there anything I can do to remove the darkness and make it blend better? 4. (Image 4) Some of the top rails look fuzzy. Should I sand them and what grit should be used? 5. (Image 5) This shows what the wood looked like before pressure washing and the clean deck in background. It is the pergola over garage that has not been prepped yet. Is pressure washing the best way to do that? 6. (Image 6) This is the deck after pressure washing. The pergola is really high and we had to use a our 26′ ladder to clean the outside stuff that I couldn’t get to from on the deck. It’s not perfect, but after 3 long days I was ready to be finished with the pressure washer. The size of the deck is 26′ x 15′ and 10′ x 9′. the stairs and bottom landing are 6′ x 14′. The pergola is 18′ x 20′ x 10′ high. There is yellawood lattice between all the posts around the deck, the tallest portion is 8′ wide x 5′ high. There is approximately 86 lineal feet of hand rails. 7. After researching all the different products out there and only a few overlapping on best rated lists, my biggest questions are: a. Since it has been so long since we last sealed, can I use a water based formula to seal? Everything seems to point to those being the best formulation out there. If… Read more »
There are no images and honestly, you should cut down on the content. Makes it very hard to respond too. Thanks
It wont let me add images. When I click on camera it does nothing. I will repost shorter questions.
1. I have a few boards that are warping and pulling up the screws. Can I turn these over and reuse, try to re-secure with a new screw, or replace them?
No, just replace if needed.
2. The wood we used is YellaWood and some boards have a much more prominent grain. With age this seems to be more pronounced almost looking wet all the time. Is there anything I can do to make it blend better?
No.
3. In the center of the large area of deck we had a teak table and chairs. It looks like the wood has a black cast to it. Is there anything I can do to remove the darkness and make it blend better?
We would need a picture to see this issue.
Here us image.
Try applying a wood brightener to all wood and see if that helps.
4. Some of the top rails look fuzzy due to water pressure. Should I sand them and what grit should be used?
60-80 grit.
Since it has been so long since we last sealed (2011 or 2012 with an oil based clear sealant), can I use a water based formula to seal? Everything seems to point to those being the best formulation out there. If not, what is better TWP 100 or 1500.
You can use a water-based stain. Try Defy Extreme or Restore A Deck.
6. The square footage of deck is approximately 600. The pergola is 18′ x 20′ x 10′ high. There is lattice between all the posts around the deck, approximately 440 sq. ft. And about 86 lineal feet of hand rails. How much product should I use?
We need a total sq footage added up plus it depends on the stain brand you choose.
I will estimate 1600 sq ft due to spray loss with lattice. See image below and I will use the defy product.
You will need about 15 gallons for two coats.
Thanks for all your help.
I haven’t seen any reviews of the Outlast Q8 Log Oil. I liked it because there is an additive you can add to protect against carpenter bees which we have a HUGE problem with. Do you know anything about it?
There are other additives that can be added to and exterior stain or paint. Bug Juice is one additive.
I received a can labeled 1501 Cedartone, but it looks like 1503 Dark Oak on my PT fence. Did I receive a mislabeled can or is this due to high absorption rate and age of my fence? The stain itself in the can looks dark.
Pictures attached
That is a result of your age of the wood and absorption rate.
We are stripping a front door that has faded etc due to western exposure. We are in CT. Would the TWP 200 or 1500 be best for color saturation and durability against the sun. The door is made of fir. Thanks for any direction.
TWP 1500.
We are from central Indiana, we had a new rough cut ceder fence installed a year ago and now we are looking to stain it. Wanting to use a semi transparent stain, have been looking at the Cabots Australian Timber Oil stains in a honey teak but after reading on here may go in a different direction any suggestions? Also do I need to prep the fence at all? If so what should I use? I would say it has a semi weathered look to it right now. Any advice? Thanks for the help!
Prep with Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener kits. Stain with TWP 1500 over the Cabot.
I have a new con heart redwood pergola installed about 1 month ago. I want to maintain the natural look of the redwood. Which stain would you recommend. I live in Northern California and the pergola is exposed to the sun most of the day.
Look at Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500. As for new wood, it does need to season for a time and then be prepped first: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thanks for your response. Which TWP 1500 stain choice/color would you recommend to preserve the natural color of my Redwood Con Heart Pergola? Thank you.
Any colored tint that you like will work. Up to you as to how you want to enhance it.
Hello, I live on Long Island NY and had cedar fence installed late September 2018. I am getting ready to have it stained and am thinking about using TWP 1501 Cedartone. The results of your Cedar deck look amazing and I am hoping to have the same with my fence. Two questions:
1. Did you use the TWP Gemini Cleaner/Brightener or any other prep?
2. Did you use 1 or 2 coats.
Thanks in advance!
1. Yes, use this prep.
2. 2 Coats since it is vertical wood and almost a year old. Apply wet on wet.
Ok so after doing more research I’ve landed on AC Transparent Redwood Tone. Based on the pics I added, do you think the deck floor would benefit from ditching the Valspar cleaner in lieu of the RAD system before staining?
We would use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener over the Valspar for your final prep. Not sure about the Redwood 2x4s.
1. Hi, I recently purchased a home with a deck made from redwood (1997). To prepare the neglected deck, I power washed, used a valspar cleaner/brightener and am almost done sanding the entire thing. After reading everything I’ve read I am guessing I shouldve sanded first and then used the Gemini restoration kit and followed by TWP1500? I was initially going to go with Valspar but after finding this site I will go with TWP.
2. I absolutely love the color now that the wood is sanded (pics attached). What color from TWP would preserve this or should I be looking at a boiled linseed oil / tung oil to stay natural?
3. Is it true redwood 2x4s cannot be found anymore? I have boards that need to be replaced and a local lumber shop told me this.
Thank you!
I would like to keep the original natural wood color for our newly replaced horizontal deck surfaces which are pressure treated pine. When it rained on the new wood, the grains and natural color were highlighted and absolutely beautiful!
I see colors of 1500 Clear, 1515 Honeytone and 1530 Natural. Would they be able to recreate this color effect and not darken with re-coating annually? If so, which would you recommend? If not, which would likely produce the closest effect without darkening over the years?
Look at TWP 1515 Honeytone. That offers UV protection and is closest to a wet look. Recoating over the years does not darken it.
1.) Would you recommend Armstrong Clark Transparent Natural (or other AC color) or TWP 1500 stain?
2.) TWP talks about 2 initial coats – wet on wet. Pardon my ignorance but do they mean doing a few boards at a time then immediately re-applying to the same few boards before moving on OR applying stain to the entire deck surface then re-applying the second coat.
3.) Is it necessary to initially apply 2 coats for new pressure treated pine wood?
1. Either would work well.
2. Depends on how fast you apply. Typically the second coat goes on within 20-60 minutes of the first coat.
3. No, just one coat for new wood.
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thank you very much for your help!
You are welcome!
Hello, I’m about to install a 1000 square-foot IPE deck, and the wood will be delivered in a couple days. I was advised to directly put IPE oil on the railings before install, when I receive the product in order so that it does not crack. According to the sales man, if I don’t put that right away I will risk cracking and checking on the rails. I’ve also read your form that says that I should wait 2 to 3 months before doing anything to the wood. My goal is to avoid any cracking on the railing. This one is really expensive as I’m sure you know, Do you think that it would help to avoid potential cracks and checking on the railing, to put IPE oil now on the rails, and then in 2 to 3 months remove it, And then put Armstrong mahogany? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I really want to do it right. Thank you for your time. Thank you for your awesome forum.
To be more exact, ultimately I want to put Armstrong mahogany finish, I don’t want to use IPE oil. But I want to not have any cracks on my railing. I’m trying to find the best way to avoid cracks, I’m willing to do the extra work and spend the extra money, but I want to know the best way to avoid the cracks. Because the gentleman that sold me the wood said that I need to stain it right away with IPE oil. Otherwise it will totally crack on the surface of my railing. What do you think? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Cracks are normal for exterior wood and will happen no matter what and cannot be prevented. Best to wait a few months, prep, then stain with the AC.
Any reason I cannot use TWP 1500 over TWP 100 series (the latter apples 3 yrs ago)? Any reason I should stay with the 100 series over the 1500 series? I’m in NC.
You can use the 1500 but no advantage. They last about the same for NC.
Hi I have gotten myself into a bad spot with my fence and I’m looking for some advice. I live in Canada and I have used this stain called Penofin in a red can. It is an oil base stain and it did not turn out well because I did not prep the wood well enough and the grey is showing thru the transparent stain. Most stains sold here in Canada at your Lowe’s or Home Depot are all water base now. My question is how do I now remove the oil base stain so I can apply a water base one? If cleaning the oil base off and putting another water base product on is not possible what method do you recommend here to at least remove the Penofin and then go across the boarder to get another oil base as it will be ok to go 1 oil base over another?
The Penofin can be removed with a deck stain stripper like this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Use the wood brightener after to neutralize.
Whats the advantage of the 1500 series compared to the 100 series?
Slightly better UV protection.
Thanks
Can I use 1500 on a NEW pressure treated deck?
After weathering and prep you can: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I live in Rainier, Oregon. We just replaced our red cedar deck and covered it with an extended roof which has a ceiling of tongue and groove cedar. Some of the decking is new store bought wood, some is salvaged and planed wood from the former deck, and some is new wood just harvested and milled during the project. We began this project in November of 2018 and we are finishing up railings and benches currently. The ceiling of the lengthy eaves around the house perimeter is original tongue and groove cedar which was treated with linseed oil many years ago and is long overdue for refinishing. We want all of the cedar to be finished with the same look and prefer that some grain show.
We live in the rainy Pacific NW and are surrounded by a small woodland. So mosses and algae are an issue.
Also we built a sunroom underneath the deck, so waterproofing the deck is an issue.
Would you recommend a TWP product? What would you suggest for preparing the wood for treatment? How long would you wait to apply an oil based product?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
The TWP stains would work well after the wait and prep.
Hi. My contractor used ready seal late summer of 2016. It has been power washed dirt still shows in some areas.
I want to change to TWP 1500. What has to be done to transition? Thanks in advance!
Strip and brighten the wood for the prep.
Thanks I get the stripping. But, is the brightener another step??
Yes. You must neutralize a deck stripper with a wood brightener.
I live in Northern Virginia and had my deck of pressure treated wood (probably pine) rebuilt in the fall of 2015. The contractor applied Thompson’s Water Seal Penetrating Timber Oil in “Natural” to the deck approximately 2-3 months after the deck was completed. Three plus years later, the deck looks good, except it is gray in color. There are no visible signs of mold or mildew, which is amazing, since we had record rain in our area last year. I want to have the deck power washed and re-stained this month. I want to try the TWP 1500. Should I request that my contractor “strip” the deck of whatever remains of the Thompson’s Water Seal before he applies the TWP 1500 stain? If so, what does the stripping entail? Is it a light sanding of the deck and deck rails before the power washing is done? Are there products that the contractor will need to use to strip the old stain? Honestly, it doesn’t look like there is anything to strip. Also, which TWP 1500 transparent color is light brown in color? Thank you for your help!
Yes, strip to be safe. Brightener after. Stipping will remove any sealer that is still in the wood so the TWP can properly soak in. No need to sand. TWP in Pecan might be the color you would want.
So there are two additional products I need to purchase, a product to “strip” the deck and a product to “brighten” the deck? Neither the “stripping” or “brightening” processes have anything to do with the power washing process. Is that correct? What two products are you recommending I purchase for the stripping and brightening?
The stripping and brightening happens while you are doing the pressure washing. Look at the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits.
Okay. Great! Thank you for the clarification.
Does the Twp natural contain UV protection?
TWP 1530 Natural is tinted (not clear) so yes, it has UV protection.
I have a two year old deck and purgola that were sealed last year with “THOMPSONS WATERSEAL TH.042851-16 Semi-Transparent Waterproofing Stain Woodland Cedar”. Initially they looked good but the Wisconsin weather was hard on the stain after just one winter and are in bad need of reapplication and based on the Thompson’s poor results, looking for a better product for much better results. What would be your recommendations? Either TWP 1500 or TWP 100? Do I need to remove ALL previous stain with power wash/sanding or will the TWP brighter do an acceptable job before applying new stain? Would I expect to reapply annually with TWP or would I get several years before needed to reapply?
TWP 1500 would work well. All of the current stain will need to be sanded off.
We are in New England with a 1 year old Garapa deck. The deck was stained mid-summer last year after it was built with another product (Penofin Hardwood) that after only a few weeks started showing black discolorations which we are told are due to mold. We want to switch to using TWP 1500 this year with a power wash and sand first to remove the old stain, but the instructions on TWP 1500 mention a 4-12 month weathering period. Since this deck was stained soon after being built do we need to strip the old stain first and then let it weather or just apply the TWP immediately?
Strip and brighten for prep and you will be good to stain.
We live in NW Georgia. We have a very large deck around an above ground pool. Deck is 3 years old and had Thompson’s water seal applied 2 years ago. What is best option for poolside deck. . .holding up to lots of water 3-4 months out of the year? (Small children in/out of the pool).
All deck stain coatings can be “bleached” out from chlorine in the pool. Because of this you will need to prep and reapply more often. Best to use a brand that can be easily cleaned and reapplied as needed. Try one of these brands: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
Hi, We installed a pressure treated pine deck about 4 years ago. After about 6 months, and making sure the wood was dry, we stained it with another brand. It was beautiful for about 6 months. The next year I stained the flooring again but it is not holding up. Do I need to completely strip the wood to use TWP 1500 Semi-transparent stain? I also have two other areas of decking/dock that are one to two years old, bare wood. What do I need to do to prepare all of my decking?
Yes, you have to remove the current coatings when switching brands of deck stain. Clean and brighten the non-stained areas.
Where can I buy the cedartone 1500 series in Connecticut. Specifically close to a 06804 zipcode
You would have to check with TWP.
Built a new 12′ x 34′ deck around my place at the lake in August 2018 using pressure treated pine. I plan to stain the deck in next month (April 2019). With the deck being new it is not very dirty or discolored. I plan to pressure wash the deck prior to applying the stain but was wonder if more prep will be necessary. The location is in NE Tennessee. The sun tracks from one end of the deck to the other. The sun hits the deck mostly all the time. There is plenty of space under and around the deck so I am not concerned about lack of air flow. I am looking for a stain that is fairly easy to apply, that will penetrate and last a good while. I would appreciate any advice. Thank you in advance.
Yes, you need to prep. Use their Gemini Restore Kit. See this for more info: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Any suggestions regarding which brand of stain other than the ones listed in the link above? Oil or water base?
Thanks for the reply. Any suggestions for stains other than what is listed in the link above? Should I go with oil or water base?
TWP 100 or 1500 Series will work very well. They are oil based.
Had a new redwood arbor installed last year. Corner support post gets hit by the lawn sprinklers all the time. Live in the San Francisco bay area.
Can TWP be used on arbors? Guessing Calif. Redwood color is best match to the natural color of the wood?
Yes, the TWP 1500 would work very well for this. Any color you like will work. Make sure to clean and brighten the wood for the prep.
After doing some more research, I realized this is a oil based stain. I would prefer to use a water based stain for the redwood for ease of clean up. Is there any stain you recommend for redwood.
I might also add a horizontal fence using mahogany. Would the same stain work for it?
Use Restore A Deck Wood stain for both wood types.
We live 3 miles off the Gulf in southern Florida. One month ago we installed a pressure and kiln dried pine deck using 2×6 boards and just this week we finished a planter box and slat wrapped posts. We are now officially out of the rainy season but high humidity is almost always a factor. Our UV is rarely under an 8 so sun bleaching is a concern as is mold and mildew growth in shady areas.
With that said, how long should we wait before sanding and prepping and what stain do you recommend that will give us our best shot at achieving a medium cedar tone (similar to the color of our window rainscreens), color retention and mold and mildew prevention? Are clear coats ever recommended?
Also, we will soon be refacing the entrance of our house (location gets minimal exposure) with cedar cladding. What do you recommend we use there considering we would like to achieve a close color match and when should it be applied?
Try the TWP 1501 Cedartone color. Clean and brighten the wood for prep. Just one coat of the TWP. You can use the same for the cedar cladding.
You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain.
Live in Colorado. Deck gets full sun in morning that fades to partial and then none. Deck is 3 years old. Given the altitude, cold and lack of humidity in the Denver area, what is the best stain for deck?
Try the TWP 100 Series.
I have a large 700 Sq Ft deck and worked many hours to prep for staining. I thought I did my home work and deceided to use TWP 1500 stain. After 3 coats the deck looked great. I completed this in Sept 2017, after a normal winter and spring in northern Illinois. I cleaned the winter dirt from the deck with soap and water and the half of the deck exposed to the sun had faded and looked like years of wear and tear, the other half was as nice a when I stained it. I was not real happy! Emailed TWP with my story and never got a responce of any kind.
You cannot apply 3 coats of TWP to a deck. TWP is penetrating and if over applied, can fail prematurely. This is actually not the stains fault. Your prep in the Spring may have contributed to the problem as well.
Would only staining one side would be bad? What’s the most natural color for the 1500 series? Is there a link to any pics? Thanks!
You are only supposed to stain the exposed wood. Honeytone is the lightest tint. Check out the TWP site for pics.
My husband just built a pine deck in June and we live in Michigan, can you please tell us which TWP is best to use the 100 or 1500 and how long should we wait with pine before we use the product?
The 100 Series. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I need to back prime my cedar siding which absorbs moisture from the rear side and pushes off the primer and paint or opaque stain. What is the best product for back priming in this situation?
TWP is not a primer and will not work. No deck stain can be used as a primer. Not sure what would be your best option here as we do not work with primers.
I just stained my deck with TWP 1500, rustic color. The rails are quite old, and the floor is a few years old. I cleaned and brightened everything well with Deck Restore before staining. The rails came out a warm brown, the floor is definitely reddish. Why two colors? If I put another coat on the rails, will it help the color match?
The difference in color is based on the wood age. Older wood is much more absorbent. Adding another coat should help some but it will still be slightly different.
Will TWP 1500 work on western red cedar siding ?
Yes. Works great on cedar siding.
Hi. My covered porch is made of mahogany. The old finish was peeling up in spots and was worn away in the high traffic areas. The wood is faded here. Do you think the wood will come back in these areas and what is the recommended finish. Thanks!
REmove all of the previous coatings and then use 1 coat of TWP 1516 Rustic. It will look great. Redo every year for Mahogany wood.
We Need Help…we have a cedar deck…23 years old. we live in Michigan. It has been stained over the years with a semi-solid stain and now we stain with a solid stain. We have always used a Behr product and recently (when we replaced some of the boards, the stain has been bubbling and peeling. 3-4 years ago we had some boards replaced that were rotting we let the new boards weather a year then used a deck prep product before reapplying new stain. All the the new deck boards peeled. The next year we sanded them and reapplied….same issue…the boards peeled. Almost all of the older boards retained the stain. We have a new round of new boards and want to know what to do. Should we restain the whole deck again? or just the new peeling boards? Let the new boards weather again? It didn’t seem to make a difference. The stain is coming off in strips. Please recommend!
Hello,
The only way to fix this is to sand all off, 100% of the current stain so you are left with bare wood. Once this is done, lightly wash with a deck cleaner and then use a penetrating wood stain like the TWP.
Would you think I should consider the 200 series?
The 200 is mainly used for shakes and shingle siding and roofs. It can be used on a deck but takes longer to dry and cure. Up to a week. Once dry, it works great but not any better than the 1500.
May I ask. What is the top of the line TWP line? The 1500 I’m assuming for cedar deck?
TWP does not have a best stain between the 100, 1500, and 200 Series. Mainly the difference is VOC compliance for certain states.
Hey should I just had a new 20k cedar deck done at home. I want to stain and protect it and was thinking of TWP 1500. Would this be the right choice for durability and appearance? Should I wait before I apply it?
Yes but you cannot stain right away. See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I have a old deck on a summer home in the mountains of North Carolina that has never been stained. I am going to pressure wash. Will the TWP be suitable to use? Also can I get samples of the stain?
Check with the TWPStain.com website for samples. The TWP 1500 would be a good choice for this older deck.
I have an 18 yr old deck/stairs/railing that have been stained over and over thru the years. However we have not stained for about 3 years now. We live in North Idaho so lots of cold weather and snow in winter. What would be best process for prep and restaining? Would TWP 1500 be best? Please tell me I don’t have to figure out how to sand the individual spindles in the deck railing! 😳
Strip and brighten for the prep with the Restore A Deck Products.
The TWP 1500 would work well.
Installed new pressure treated dock decking last September and ready to stain/seal. On Chesapeake Bay- should I use the 100 series TWP or the 1500?
For your area, you will need the TWP 1500 Series. Make sure to prep correctly.
We have a older deck and live in the south, do you recommend the 100 or 1500 series”
Either series will work well.
Let me start by saying that I really like TWP. It repels moisture like no other. Even when it’s worn and the color is almost gone, it still repels water. But just know that TWP has a learning curve. The first time I used it on my new deck I was ecstatic. It was gorgeous! HOWEVER, it was shiny. I was sure that I didn’t let any stain pool…but I was wrong. The shiny spots were a result of the pooling, AND the spots eventually peeled. However, it didn’t affect the water-proofing. I just used Restore-a-Deck stripper and brightener, (both great products) and set out on my next TWP adventure. We used brushes to apply the stain. AGAIN, we were CERTAIN we didn’t leave any pools of stain left on the planks. However, the next morning we saw shiny spots. Realizing that wood absorbs oil at different rates, we donned our throw-away socks and wiped every single plank. The deck is awesome. THAT’S THE TRICK! Apply the stain, wipe the excess, and move onto the next plank. You’ll love TWP. You can’t find a better water repellent. I live in Colorado and the UV rays are crazy, but even though the color fades, you still have total protection from the elements.
Which semi-transparent stain is better for Port Orford Cedar TWP 100 or TWP 1500 ?
Depends on where you live and if the wood is new or older.
The deck is new built 4 days ago ! I live in Oregon – on the Coast !
You cannot stain right away. TWP wants 4-12 months of weathering. After the weathering you will need to clean and brighten for prep. Use the 100 Series.
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
First two are under deck, third is sw exposure. Maine.
Tried to send as reply, don’t think it went through.
You should strip and brighten all wood for the prep. It will remove the old stain and the mildew.
I bought a 2005 cedar sided house that has weathered considerably with varying exposures. One section, under a deck, has no sun exposure and is black with exterior mold. What do you recommend for restoration? Should I use the same for the areas that receive lots of sun? As far as I can tell, there was no stain or sealer applied when built.
Pictures please.
I sent the pictures a couple hours ago, did you get them?