Hi, I’m Scott Paul, an exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior wood decking. My review of the TWP 1500 Series comes from years of hands-on testing and my expertise in wood restoration. I’m here to help you find the best deck stain choices based on real-world performance and quality.See here for more info about me.
- TWP 1500 Series is a low-VOC, oil-based penetrating stain that complies with VOC regulations in all 50 states.
- It earned an 8.5 out of 10 overall rating, scoring high in UV protection, mold resistance, and wear performance over two years.
- TWP 1500 does not peel or flake because it penetrates deep into wood fibers rather than forming a surface film.
- At $47 per gallon, coverage runs about 125 square feet for two coats, breaking down to roughly 40 cents per square foot.
- Recoating is recommended every 18 to 24 months, using a quality deck cleaner before applying maintenance coats.
- TWP 1500 works best on cedar, pressure treated pine, and redwood, but is not ideal for hardwoods like IPE or brand new unweathered wood.
TWP 1500 Series Review
TWP 1500 Series is a low-VOC, oil-based penetrating wood and deck stain designed to meet current environmental regulations while still delivering performance similar to the original TWP 100 Series.
From my experience restoring decks since 1993, TWP 1500 performs very similarly to TWP 100 in terms of penetration and ease of maintenance. The main difference is slightly reduced penetration due to the VOC restrictions, but overall performance is still very solid for most exterior wood surfaces.
Overall, TWP 1500 is a good option for homeowners who want a traditional oil-based stain in areas where TWP 100 is not available.
8.5 Overall Rating for TWP Semi-Solids
TWP 1500 Stain Revie
🔹 Quick Verdict
TWP 1500 Series – Quick Review
- Best For: Homeowners needing a low-VOC oil-based stain
- Ideal For: Those wanting maximum penetration or longest color retention
- Type: Oil-based penetrating stain (low VOC)
- My Overall Rating: 8.5/10
My Take:
TWP 1500 is a solid alternative to TWP 100 when VOC restrictions apply. It performs well overall but does not penetrate quite as deeply as the original formula.
TWP 1500 Series Description
TWP® (Total Wood Preservative) 1500 Series Deck Stain was introduced in 2010 as the permanent replacement for the TWP 500 Series. This semi-transparent, oil-based, EPA-registered wood preservative is designed for use on all exterior wood surfaces, providing superior protection and performance.
TWP 1500 Stain is specially formulated to resist UV damage, preventing wood graying and discoloration. It’s a popular choice for decks, fences, log cabins, wood siding, and cedar shakes. Available in 10 shades, this stain enhances the natural beauty of the wood while offering long-lasting protection.
TWP 1500 Deck Stain Rating
How I Rated TWP 1500 Series
My TWP 1500 Series review contains an 8-step process and the final average score. Each step is on a scale of 1-10.
- The appearance of the TWP 1500 Series after the Application
- Preventing UV Graying
- Peeling or Wearing
- Cost Per Square Foot
- Preventing Mold and Mildew TWP 1500 Series
- How Easy was the Application
- Color Shifting TWP 1500 Series
- Ease of Reapplication
- TWP 1500 Series Final Score
8-Step Review of TWP 1500 Series
1. Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
The appearance of TWP 1500 Wood Stain on our test deck was a warm, rich finish. The wood grain was effortlessly enhanced and highlighted. The 1501 Cedartone color was a little browner (not as orange) than a conventional cedar stain color.
TWP 1501 Cedartone
2. Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9
At the 2-year mark, TWP was holding up well against UV graying. This was one of the top deck stains tested for reflecting UV radiation that typically creates wood fading and discoloring issues. TWP 1500 retained about 90% of its initial color at 1 year and 70% at 2 years.
3. Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
TWP 1500 displayed zero signs of peeling and only a slight amount of wear. TWP is not film-forming. The stain dives deep into the wood fibers, reducing the chance of wearing or peeling on the wood surface.
4. Cost Per Square Foot: 8.5
TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain cost us $47 per gallon. We applied 2 “wet on wet” coats to our 400 square foot test deck. Coverage for the TWP 1500 was 125 square feet per gallon for 2 coats applied wet on wet. The cost broken down per square foot was .40 cents.
5. Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9
In our testing of oil-based deck stains, TWP 1500 offered one of the best resistances to mold spores and fungal growth, which some oil-based stains are known to attract. This was most likely due to the EPA-registered mildewcides in the TWP formula. Also contributing to the lack of spores is synthetic and natural oils and a limited amount of linseed oil, which has been known to promote mildew growth.
6. Ease of Application: 8
TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain applied fairly well for an oil-based formula. It was necessary to back brush or wipe excess stain to get a nice, even finish. TWP 1500 Series Stain dried within 6 hours and we could place items back on the deck.
7. Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
At the 2-year inspection, no noticeable darkening was apparent like we have seen with other oil stains. The 1501 Cedartone color lightened up a bit, giving a more natural appearance.
8. Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
We are confident that the TWP 1500 Wood Stain would be easy to recoat. A quality deck cleaner could be used to remove common dirt and grime before re-staining with TWP 1500 again.
Overall Score TWP 1500 Series at 2 Year Period: 8.5
TWP products, including the 1500 and 100 Series Stains, are known for delivering a durable, long-lasting finish. They’ve always been a favorite of ours and remain consistently at the top of our list of recommended stains. We personally use TWP stains on over 300 deck restorations annually.
The ease of application, beautiful finish, and simple recoating process make TWP 1500 an outstanding professional-grade stain for all types of exterior wood projects. Whether you’re a homeowner or contractor, TWP stains offer the perfect blend of performance and convenience.
Product Information:
TWP Help? Search Google: TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 1500 Series
Cost: $47 per Gallon, $235 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based
Available Colors: 1500 Clear, 1501 Cedartone, 1502 Redwood, 1503 Dark Oak, 1504 Black Walnut, 1511 California Redwood, 1515 Honeytone, 1516 Rustic, 1520 Pecan, 1530 Natural
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Cedar
Deck Square Footage: 400
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: 1501 Cedartone
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Consider that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
🔹 Pros and Cons
TWP 1500 Series – Pros
- Good penetration for a low-VOC oil-based stain
- Easy to apply and forgiving during application
- Does not peel or flake
- Easy to maintain with simple cleaning and recoat
- Widely available in VOC-restricted states
TWP 1500 Series – Cons
- Does not penetrate as deeply as TWP 100
- Fades faster in full sun compared to newer stains
- Requires regular maintenance to maintain appearance
🔹 Best Wood Types for TWP 1500
- Cedar: Good absorption and natural appearance
- Pressure Treated Pine: Performs well after proper weathering
- Redwood: Consistent finish and penetration
Not Ideal For:
- Hardwoods (IPE, Cumaru, etc.) – will not penetrate properly
- New wood – may require 4+ weathering and prep before application
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔹 Application Tips
- Apply to properly cleaned and prepped wood
- Do not over-apply
- Apply thin, even coats
- Back-brush if needed for uniform absorption
👉 How to Prep a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
👉 How to Stain a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-stain-a-deck/
🔹 Maintenance & Recoat Tips
TWP 1500 is easy to maintain, similar to other penetrating oil stains.
- Recoat every 18 -24months depending on exposure
- Clean and brighten before reapplying
- Apply maintenance coats before full fade
- Avoid letting the stain wear off completely
From my experience, keeping up with light maintenance coats is key to getting the best performance from TWP 1500.
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔹 Real-World Testing & Photos
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain – Real World Testing
Below are examples of the TWP 1500 Series applied to different wood types and how it performs over time.
These are from actual field applications and testing. As with any stain, results will vary depending on prep, wood condition, and exposure.
🔹 Who Should Use TWP 1500?
You should consider TWP 1500 if:
- You need a stain that complies with VOC regulations
- You want an oil-based penetrating stain
- You prefer an easy-to-maintain system
- Your deck is older or properly weathered
You may want to consider other options if:
- You want water-based cleanup
- You want longer color retention
- Your deck is brand new (less than 4 months) or hardwood
👉 Best Deck Stains
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
🔹 FAQs
How long does TWP 1500 last?
Typically 18-24 months depending on exposure.
Does TWP 1500 peel or flake?
No, it penetrates into the wood and does not form a film.
Is TWP 1500 oil-based?
Yes, it is an oil-based penetrating stain with low VOC content.
Can it be applied over old stain?
Yes, if the previous coating is TWP 1500 Series and the wood is properly prepped.
Is it good for new wood?
Not ideal unless the wood has been weathered and prepped.
How does it perform in full sun?
It performs well but will fade faster than some newer stains with stronger UV protection.
🔹 Final Thoughts
TWP 1500 Series is a good low-VOC alternative to traditional oil-based stains like TWP 100. While it does not offer the same level of penetration, it still performs well and is easy to maintain.
From my hands-on experience, this is a solid option for homeowners who want a traditional oil-based look and feel while complying with current environmental regulations.
As with most penetrating stains, proper prep and ongoing maintenance will determine long-term performance.
TWP 1500 Series Stain Review Video
Applying TWP in 1503 Dark Oak to Wood Fence.
https://youtu.be/xH6RnzN4M-c
Thank you for your very informative website. I am new to fence maintenance and have a few questions regarding a project on my property in Pennsylvania.
Last summer, I replaced the boards of an old wood fence with pressure-treated pine, though I kept the original posts, which are not in great condition (they are probably about 30 years old…) I am now looking to stain the fence (approximately 1,050 square feet) to preserve it.
1. Do you have a preference between TWP 1500 and Armstrong Clark (or any other very durable stain)? I noted that Armstrong is more expensive and would appreciate your insight on the value difference.
2. Are two coats required? I have read that Armstrong may only need one coat while TWP requires two; does this depend specifically on the type of stain used?
3. Do the older posts require a different type of preparation or stain compared to the newer pine boards?
Thank you very much for your help and expertise!
Good project. Taking your questions in order:
1) TWP 1500 vs Armstrong Clark: both are quality penetrating semi-transparent oils that wear well and are easy to maintain — they fade rather than peel, so you can clean and recoat without stripping. Armstrong Clark’s oil blend soaks into denser, older wood a little better; TWP 1500 is a strong all-around performer and is VOC-compliant in Pennsylvania. On value they’re close once you account for coverage, so it mostly comes down to color and availability.
2) Number of coats depends on the wood more than the brand. For fences, we would suggest two coats wet on wet.
3) Only if the posts have a prior coating or stain on them? It would need to be remove.
Since the boards are still fairly new, here’s our guide to prepping new wood before staining: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/pre-staining-new-wood-decks-before-install/
Post some pics of the posts and boards and we can advise from there.
Thank you for the quick reply!
No prior stain on the posts.
Clean and brighten all wood with this kit:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-package-600/
FYI, your nails are rusting.
You will need about 7-10 gallons of the stain.
Also, what would you suggest using to apply the stain – a roller, brush, or pad? (I cannot use a sprayer.)
For whichever method you recommend, could you also provide guidance on the specific type and size you suggest?
Thank you again for your help!
Do not roll. Use a stain pad or brush:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product-category/brushes-stain-pads-sprayers-and-tools/
I have a 4 year old deck that will be stained for the first time. It is in morning to early afternoon sun.
What should I use to prep it for stain and would TWP 100 or 1500 work best? I live in SC.
I’m considering the Dark Oak.
Thank you!
Use this kit for prep while pressure washing:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-package-300/
Either series would work great in SC.
Could You give me instruction on this process as I’ve never done it before?
Also, do I need to use a brush to clean if I have a small pressure washer?
Thank you for your advice on this big project!
See this for deck cleaning tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
Can I get the twp1500 in a different color other than what’s listed? The 200 series has so many different color options. I want a dark grey color
No, that is not possible. Look at the semi-solid colors for some gray colors:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product-category/twp-wood-stains/twp-semi-solid-stain-pro-series/
Scott
You are to be congratulated for an amazing resource!
I live in San Diego California 15 miles in from the coast and we get a lot of UV.
We have a 500 sq ft IPE deck 3 years old. SEE PHOTOS FOR AMOUNT OF DARK MARKS.
First treatment was Penefin and second was TWP 1500 which I see should not have been done on IPE.
WEBSITE RATINGS
Looking on your website for stains for IPE and hardwood it says SEMI TRANSPARENT……
1. RESTORE-A DECK 8.825 RATING
2. ARMSTRONG 8.60 RATING
3. TWP NATURAL EFFECT 9.2 RATING
QUESTIONS
A. First question, why is TWP EFFECT not first and ARMSTRONG last, based on your ratings?
B. If money is not an issue which should I chose ?
MY CURRENT PLAN with products from you
APPLY CLEANER. (RESTORE-A-DECK CLEANER AND BRIGHTENER PREP KIT PACKAGE 300.)
POWER WASH
APPLY STRIPPER (RAD 5 GALL +BOOSTER & THICKENING) OR BRIGHTENER?
POWER WASH OR SAND 60-80 GRIT
DRY 2 DAYS
STAIN-WHICH ONE? HOW MANY GALLONS?
Very excited about doing this right this time and sorry for all the questions.
Craig
No need for the cleaner if you are stripping. Just use this kit for the prep, no need for booster or gel additives.:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
I would not bother sanding, you want the wood porous, and sanding can reduce penetration.
As for the stain, all are excellent, but IPE, being so dense, requires more frequent recoating than any other wood type. I would say try the Natural Effect as it held color longer in our test. It is more expensive than the others.
HI Scott. Thanks for the quick reply to my questions on my cypress tongue and groove ceiling project. I have three follow up questions. First you say wait and let the wood weather for a number of weeks. Is this only for freshly milled wood, all wood, cypress only?? I assume that my wood has been sitting in a warehouse for quite some time. What are the pitfalls if one oils the wood before thoroughly weathered? Finally…you said “do not sand”. Is this specific to cypress? I’ve always heard that you sand the face prior to applying stain.
All wood unless rough-sawn cut. Sitting in a warehouse has no effect. It has to weather outside. Sanding reduces penetration, not helps it. No reason to do it.
Best semi for new ( dried for 6 months) PT pine? Thank you in advance as well
See this about new wood first:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
TWP would work very well here.
We are horizontally laying down 6″ x 6″ x 8′ rough Redwood posts on a dirt and grass driveway…to serve as car parking barriers. Plan on using the TWP 1500 series. Question: Should we stain the posts completely–all four sides and both ends? Or should we leave one side (or one end) of the posts unstained–to let the post breathe? Thanks very much.
Only the exposed or visible sides should be stained.
Thanks so much for your prompt reply! Your expertise is literally the best..
🙂
Hi….i have cedar planks installed along balcony wall and eaves of my new home in California (about 4 blocks from the beach). They were installed around 6 months ago. i really want to prevent the graying of the wood as much as possible. Can i start staining now? From what i read, you recommend TWP 1500 series for this and 1501, specifically, as it is cedar? Any other recommendation? One finisher had recommended Mesmer’s UV. Any thoughts? Again, thanks!!
Yes, you can stain after the prep. Use their Gemini Restore Kit for prep. The 1501 Cedar, 1520 Pecan, 1530 Natural (it is not clear but tinted), or the 1515 Honeytone are very popular colors for Cedar wood.
Thanks for the prompt reply. I have a follow up question. It turns out my contractor put some sort of water based sealant onto the cedar already. Does this need to be sanded off or will the Gemini Restore Kit work to prep the surface for TWP 1500? Again, thanks!
You will need to strip it or sand it off. The Gemini Kit will not remove it. Do you what brand of sealer it was?
I have a 30 year old deck. After proper preparation, what is a recommended the 100 series or the 1500 series? Thank you.
Where do you live?
new york
For NY, you need to use the 1500 Series due to VOC restrictions:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
Thank you. In your professionable opinion, is the 100 series better/longer lasting? If so how can I get it here in NY?
No, they last the same. You cannot legally buy the 100 Series in NY or have it shipped to NY.
Hi Scott,
We have a new treated 400 ft2 wood deck that was installed in April 2024.
Water absorption test on 6/28 shows it’s still not ready for sealing yet.
When it is ready, I am thinking of using TWP 1500, unless you have a different recommendation. I have access to TWP 100 as well. Cost is not an issue just want what will give best and lasting protection.
Should I get the kit that includes cleaner and brightener as well? Are those spray on and rinse off? Will a 5 gal pale of sealer be enough to do the job?
Also, it’s a second story elevated deck so the underneath is visible and exposed, see photos.
Can the underside of the decking, joists, and stair treads also be sealed?
Later a sheet metal under decking will be installed to take rain and snow melt to a gutter so it’s dry underneath, so won’t have access again once that is installed, so sealing before that gets installed can be done if appropriate.
I did read elsewhere on this site it’s not recommended to seal both sides of the wood.
Thanks,
Bryan
TWP wants the deck to weather for 4-12 months after installation and then prep with the Gemini Kit. It needs just one coat of stain. There is no reason to stain the underside of the deck boards but feel free to stain the deck posts. 5 gallons is more than enough.
Thank you!
Follow on questions;
1) Should there be a 2nd coat 1 year later on the PT deck? If yes do I repeat the Gemini kit?
2) I’m constructing a 1×6 cedar railing (vertical) and applying either dark oak of black walnut TWP 1500, does it need the same 4+ month wait time? It’s rough sawn one side and smooth 3 sides, kiln dried. Does it need a Gemini prep kit or something else?
Thank you !
We have just had our old 2nd story deck here in Colorado replaced. The new deck boards are composite, but the support posts and main support beam (all southwest facing) are engineered (glue lam)yellow cedar. Is TWP1500 a good option for staining and protecting them? We obviously have more intense UV up here at altitude.
Yes, but you cannot stain new wood right away: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Yep, I recognize that. Waiting 4 months until October may mean waiting until spring given the unpredictability of the weather, but that gives us time to plan.
In your review of the TWP 100 series product you recommended allowing 4 months to pass before staining new wood. Does that also apply to this product (TWP 1500)? Thank you.
Yes, and that is TWP itelf saying this. New wood has to weather and be prepped.
We are building a new heavy timber deck. The structure is Douglas fir. Would TWP 1500 be suitable for this type of wood? The deck will be located in a partial shade area; the lower structure will likely not see too much direct sun.
Thanks very much for your advice. Really appreciate finding your website.
The TWP 1500 would work great after proper weathering and prep for the new wood:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Thanks very much. Will check out the link.
I have a PT wood deck that was built in the 90s. It was in good shape when I bought the home in 2017, and in 2019 hired someone to restain the deck. He sanded it and used a semi-transparent TWP product (mix of cedar tone and rustic). I live in MD (close to DC) and understand that it is no longer available here so assuming it was the 100 series???
In spring of 2022, I had my roof and siding cleaned and the chemicals the company used stripped the stain (ugh). The color is faded and there is no sealant/protectant. Water just pools. Now the wood is really dry, nails are popping up, it has mildew (lots of green) in areas, etc. Basically, it’s badly weathered. The person who stained the deck in 2019 is no longer in business. I have gotten quotes from 2 contractors and they want to sand it and put on Sherwin Wiliams SuperDeck. Based on poor reviews, I prefer not to use it. So, I’m trying to figure out what to do in hopes I can find someone to use what’s best to bring the deck back to life and protect it as well as prep properly. Here are my questions:
Thanks and greatly appreciate all the info you and your site provides!
1. Use the TWP again. The 1500 Series is excellent and allowed in MD. You can mix the same colors of you like.
2. We would need to see some pics to help with prep. Post them in the comments.
3. Nothing is decent in the local big box stores. You can order the TWP online at http://www.twpstain.com
Thank you! Attached are some pics. About the color and prep, I prefer not to go with the same color because it was too reddish. Is it possible to change to pecan or the black walnut for a more brownish tone? What do you suggest colorwise and also prep if possible to change the color?
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener kits for prep while pressure washing. You can use any color you like after the prep. Colors will vary based on wood age and type so best to test some samples. Dark Oak and Black Walnut are more brown.
Hi Scott, the deck was finished being stained approx 15 hours ago. I’m concerned the stain didn’t fully penetrate, as you can see wet spots throughout the deck and when I wiped one spot near my door, the stain came off and it’s an orangey color underneath. Dark oak was used. The deck was stripped and brighened, using the boosters. The deck was dried for 3 days before staining and the wood was bare. A sprayer was used and then wiped with a staining pad. 2 coats were put on, using the wet on wet directions. A deck staining company did the work and it’s the first time they used TWP on a deck (they used it on a fence in the past). They followed all directions. What should be done now?
Try wiping off the excess stain that did not penetrate into the wood grain.
Hi Scott. Working with TWP 1500 in Black Walnut. Prepped by total sanding followed by RAD cleaner and brightener.
Problem is I missed the party about wet on wet. Only have 1 coat on yet and let it dry. How best to proceed at this point?
Thanks for the wealth of knowledge here!
Bill in Michigan
Leave alone for now. Light clean in Spring and a light coat then.
Sorry this will come as a repeat post. My Google Chrome browser lacked the paper clip upload icon, but I see Safari has it, so I re-signed-on that way:
California
Lots of sun, though partial oak shade.
Redwood, circa 1990’s, good condition
No apparent mold or mildew
September 2020, after stripping and neutralizing old red stain we did not like (alkyd and various oil), With your advice I chose TWP 1500 clear transparent and liked the natural tone. It turned dull and gray after a year or two.
I anticipate either Restore A Deck two step rather than stripping plus neutralizing this year. Then more TWP 1500 (I have 1-2 gallons left in the 5 gal can). I would also consider a cedar tint since that should give me some sun protection.
I intend to leave rails as-is this time and only do the 950 sq. ft. floor. Never impressed that my now-leaking pressure washer did any more than hose nozzle unless I got so close as to damage wood, so I am inclined to use scrubbing brush and hose nozzle for prep. Water is scarce here, but I don’t see any way to conserve water on this job.
Does this make sense?
Use the RAD Stripper and Brighener for prep. Much easier and faster to use a pressure washing while doing this.
I am interested in 1500 dark oak. My deck is 25 years old. Originally had Sikkens Dek, then switched to Sikkens SRD because I did not want a film. No longer available here. Switched to two step deck scapes after sanding. First coat was oil second was water. Used the water stain over the past 7 years every couple. Just stripped and spot sanded with 40 grit parts that the stripper didn’t remove. Never want to sand again. So I’m thinking one coat of 1500 would be fine for a year or two before recoating. Don’t want product to build up and peel in the future. Or would I be better off with Restore a Deck water based since I have been using a water base. Would the Restore seep in more and have less of a chance to build up in the future or should I use the 1500 .
Neither the 1500 or the Restore A Deck semi-transparent stain will peel. They both fully soak into the wood grain.
Is it safe to put TWP 1500 on top of a deck stained with Flood Oil/Acrylic semi transparent stain.
No. You always have to remove the prior stain when switching brands of semi-transparent and transparent colors.
I have used TWP 1500 on my TP deck that is covered via an awning. The high temperature post applying has been in the mid 70’s with low humidity. I used Restore a Deck cleaner and brighter let dry to approximately 8% moisture content. The process I used to apply the stain was apply to the first board and then back brushed the two previously stained boards. I applied the stain at a rate of approximately 3/4 of the documented coverage rate. It has been 48 hours and the deck still shows shiny spots.
The Questions:
1 will the fact the deck is covered cause an extended dry time?
2 what should be done to eliminate the shine and get the stain to dry?
thank you for your help.
1. Yes.
2. Wipe it down with rags and mineral spirits to remove the excess stain. Soak all oily rags in water when done and lay flat to dry outside.
Hello, I stained new pine planks with twp1500 about 6 months ago. Can I apply a second coat is stain now?
It should be okay but make sure you clean to remove any dirt, etc.
I used the TWP 1500 stain about a month or so ago. I love the color and stain when the deck is wet, however when it dries, my dogs muddy paw prints show up. When I scrub with water and soap it looks great wet but still dries showing prints. If I scrub with oxiclean it dries almost clean then. However it soon gets dirty again. Is this something I will always battle or is there anything I can do to prevent my deck from looking like it’s constantly covered in mud?
No. The only thing you can do is keep the mud/dogs off the deck.
Hi- I cleaned and brightened 3 days ago with RAD on my new redwood deck that has weathered for 18 months. I used a pressure washer to rinse.
I’m attaching pictures of TWP 1500 stain that I just began. I want to make sure it looks like I’ve removed the RAD adequately. Pictures show it still a bit wet.
I do see some furring after cleaning.
No pics.
My husband thinks it looks a bit splotchy
You might want to buff the wood to remove the furring: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Can I buff areas that I have already stained or just leave as is?
Also, I am having to prep the stairs and floor boards separately from the railing. How long after TWP application on the railing can I use the RAD cleaner and brightener on the other areas? Obviously, there will be some RAD that gets on the already stained areas.
Thanks for your help.
You cannot buff where stained. You can prep now the rest of the wood.
Thank you for your help!
Who sells CWF deck stain? 1515 honeycon e
For TWP 1500 Series, see this link: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
Hi, What is the best choice for a year old Cedar deck, recently sanded due to the previous product peeling. I live in Wisconsin and the deck faces South/Southwest. 100 Series or 1500 Series?
Use the TWP 1500 Series.
Can you recommend a hand-pump sprayer that can successfully handle the viscosity of TWP 1500 semi-transparent stains without clogging? Only “transparent” stains are mentioned as being suitable in the pumps I can find. Thanks
TWP 1500 is fairly thin in viscosity so must quality pump sprayers will work. Make sure it is a fan tip and buy one that is in the range of $40-$60. Not a cheap $20 one. We like Chapin brands.
What is best stain sealer for redwood in Danville California
The TWP 1500 Series would work very well for you in CA.
Hi 2 years ago i stained my redwood deck with TWP 1500 ( I think I used honey tone) . Anyway if I restain it the same color with the same TWP 1500 , I don’t have to strip it? Some areas of the deck have great coverage still , but some of the high traffic areas have faded entirely , and are greying. If I clean and reapply, won’t it be blotchy some dark areas where the stain was still present? I am just a bit confused on how to go about it. Also another question, what if I chose a different color but stayed with 1500. Thanks for always being prompt. Looking forward to your answers.
Best to strip and brighten all to achieve a uniform color when reapplying. Any color will work after you do this.
Hi, I just recently built a horizontal Wester red cedar fence. I am looking for a protectant stain that i can just reapply and not have to strip every time. Even if it needs to be done every year. Is TWP have a clear to keep the original cedar color and protect it from greying ? Open to all suggestion. I just have a lot of wood at my property, and my deck alone keeps me busy having to strip it every two years or so to restain. I used TWP 1500 and i like it , but when there is a color to the stain it requires stripping to avoid dark spots
A clear sealer will not provide UV protection from graying. Has to be a tinted color. TWP is a penetrating stain that can be cleaned and reapplied as needed. Does not need to be stripped. On a fence, you should get 3-5 years.
You should read this about new wood as it cannot be stained yet:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Thank you for the fast response. I read the article on waiting to stain. That’s good to know , I will wait a few months before staining my smooth western red cedar fence. I will also use tinted color. As for my Deck in the back that I stained with TWP 1500 honey teak, if I want to restain with the same color, what’s the process? No stripping necessary? That’s the biggest hassle to me. The deck currently looks good in some places and faded away stain entirely in others , due to high traffic areas. Thank you !
See previous response.
I pressure washed my deck and treated with RAD Cleaner and Brightener and I am ready to stain it with TWP 1500. However, I live in the North East and I am facing a couple of issues: 1) almost every morning the deck is covered with dew, and sometime frozen dew, 2) the temperature goes below 40F at night. Is it too wet at this point to use TWP even if I start staining the deck around noon when it is more dry? Does the minimum temperature of 50F refer to when the stain is applied for the entire drying period of 2-12 hours? Thanks.
It cannot be wet or damp at all when applying TWP. It can drop below 50 the first night but it cannot drop below freezing temps.
If you are using a stain like the TWP 1500 series which calls for two coats to be applied “wet on wet” and you run out of stain where you are not able to apply the second coat on everything, should you wait for the first coat to dry thoroughly on everything before applying the second coat or should you just leave it and apply only one coat? Thanks as always for the help and advice.
Just one coat would be best.
Hi. I just stripped, brightened, and stained my deck and stairs. I went with a TWP 1530 Natural stain. The stain looks wonderful on most of the wood but slightly orange in places where the wood underneath was yellowish in color. I plan on doing another maintenance coat at the same time next year. If I stay with the same brand and series can I go to a slightly darker color without having to strip the original stain back off? I was hoping to just get TWP’s Gemini kit to clean and brighten and then just to apply one coat of a darker TWP 1500 stain. Thanks for your help and for all the wonderful information on this website. It’s by far the best resource on all of this that I’ve come across.
Sometimes that works, sometimes not. Best to strip and brighen for prep to be sure. Not any harder to that abut removes the current stain.
Thanks for the super fast response. Can I expect the wood to darken slightly over time from UV in which case the orange color in places may no longer be an issue as the yellowish wood underneath darkens? Maybe it will all look great and more uniform after it has time to weather a bit. This is my first time using just a stain like this so I don’t have any experience to go on.
TWP does not typically darken in color over time but fades in color.
What color in the 1500 series (semi-transparent)would you use on a 20 year old teak deck?Also as it’s a hardwood would you advise one coat or the wet on wet finish?
One coat. Many use the Rustic color.
Hello,
I’ve stripped all the railings and spindles of my deck to bare wood with RAD (that was a lot of work), hand sanded where needed with 60/80 grit paper and then used the brightener. There was also some rotten wood but that was replaced last summer 2020, I’ve just cleaned that too with RAD cleaner and brightened after.
I’m staining everything in TWP 1500 series in dark oak. I’ve followed all directions using a good brush but it looks so ugly, it looks like there is dirt on the spindles trapped under the stain. There seems to be beads/bubbles of dirt on the spindles under the stain, there was nothing like that on the bare wood. It looks worse than before, and before they had an ugly Superdeck stain. What could be wrong ? Please see pictures of the spindles/railing before staining and after. I’m now reading that I should have used a wood conditioner first. Should I do that, and if yes which conditioner do you recommend ?
I’ve also used this same TWP stain in dark oak on an outdoor wood table and that came out nice. Please help! I’ve stopped staining for now as I don’t want to have to strip everything again. Thank you.
It is your wood grain that is causing this. Not much you can do about it.
Thank you for your reply. So you don’t recommend the wood conditioner prior to restaining ? Or mineral spirits ? I’ve worked so much stripping/prepping this and it’s so disappointing to see this ugly result now. Thank you again. Please let me know if there is anything I can do.
A wood conditioner and mineral spirits would not do anything. You could try to brighten again and see if that helps as the darkness is internal and a brightener might lighten it more.
On another note, if this is mostly just the verticals/spindles, maybe go with a two-toned deck: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
I refinished a pressure treated deck last year, pressure washed, sanded and 2 coated with TWP 100 series. Is there any reason I can’t apply TWP 1500 Cedartone over the 100 for a maintenance coat? I get it, the standard answer is going to be strip and brighten but I’m wondering why the 1500 couldn’t soak in as a maintenance coat?
We would not do it. Just strip if you want to switch, it is easy to do. BTW, the 1501 Cedartone is much darker than the 101 Cedartone.
I am redoing my deck of about 500 square feet. The wood is clear redwood that is about 20 years old. I have been using a solid stain on it and I think it would be very difficult to sand smooth. I also do not like that the wood was butted close when installed creating puddles on the deck. I plan on removing all of the wood a few feet at a time and putting it through a thickness planer and reinstalling it with 1/4 ” gaps using screws, possibly stainless as the nails back out constantly. I also live near San Francisco, about 1 mile from the ocean. Not a lot of hot and never freezing or snow.
My question is about aging. As the wood is 20 years old, when I plane it, will I have to let it age or can I install the finish right away. I would love to finish each section before reinstalling it as will be just a bit easier.
Also, should I use TWP 100 or TWP 1500? I do get sun more days than not.
Best to let it all weather for a 1-2 months and then prep and stain.
Hello, I live in southern Wisconsin and have a 630’ x 6’ elevated walkway from my backyard crossing over wetlands onto the beach. The walkway is 3 years old, pressure treated yellow pine and has not been oiled/stained yet. The topside is slightly grey and weathered. I’m looking for the easiest possible way to finish the walkway with the least amount of preparations. My pressure washer and hose will not extend 600 feet plus I’m concerned about using deck cleaning chemicals over the wetlands area. Question 1) Will a stiff brushing do well enough on the walkway prior to oiling/staining? I can care less about the color of the walkway when finished as I am more interested in max protection from UV, rain, snow and harsh weather. Question 2) I’m thinking oil would be best due to least amount of prep work in between reapplying oil every couple years. Thinking TWP 100 or TWP 1500?? or again, a product that doesn’t require sanding, stripping, ect. in between reapplication every couple years. Thought, thanks.
You can use the TWP Gemini Restore Kit prep with pressure washing where you can reach and bucket and scrub brush where you cannot. You will need the prep products to do it correctly, and they are environmentally safe. Use the TWP 100 Series for WI.
We used the the 1599 series in cedertone on our redwood fence and the results don’t look great (it really emphasizes the knots in the wood and made them look very dark). Do you think it is an application or prep issue? The fence was pressure washed a few days before applying. Thank you!
That is normal and is not related to the stain or prep but your wood grain and how the knots are taking the wood. It actually looks very good in our opinion.
Thank you. Do you know if and how quickly it will mellow? I really loved the look of the wood after pressure cleaning and brightening, but we wanted to use a tinted application to get the UV protection.
Couple of years. It is not possible to keep the original color as it must be tinted for UV protection, and that means the color will be enhanced.
Hi, on the 100 series you suggested waiting at least 4 months for the wood to age, but you didn’t say the same on the 1500 series review. Is the 1500 series better formulated to go on brand new wood or do I still need to let it age? Also, do I need to sand the whole surface after letting it age or just power wash? I’ve never heard of doing this before. Thanks for the reviews and taking the time to answer!!
You have to wait 4-12 months will all TWP stains, not just the 100 Series. This is normal for stains. See here for prep and stain advice for new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I am about to have a very large, expensive pavilion built on my lakeside property. After reading the reviews of the TWP 100 Pro Series stain, I am convinced that it is a quality stain, and I understand it is used on log cabins. Therefore, I assume it is good for use on a pavilion, but I am scared to death. How in the world do you apply the product hanging from a ladder, and get a good job on intricate high ceilings, and large interior and exterior areas?
See here about new wood first: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
As for prep and applying, best to get some scaffolding or a scissor lift. Any good contractor should be able to do this.
Not enough stain? Water doesn’t bead.
I fully stripped, cleaned, and brightened my redwood deck, then stained the floor with clear transparent TWP 1500, following wet-on-wet instructions as closely as possible with a thick roller. I didn’t want unnatural color this time.
It looked even, except for one board on which I decided to add a second coat hours later after it dried, because it looked dull and maybe under-stained. That one remained darker than the rest, though no tackiness, and nothing wipeable with paint thinner on a rag. But maybe it was always a darker board.
But my question is: when we got our first light winter rain here in northern California a week later, I saw none of the beading of water I have always seen after a new coat of oil-based stain (except on the board I had stained twice and a few others). Does that mean I did not put on enough stain? Too late now, I assume. Maybe this brand/formulation with its wet-on-wet instructions is too complicated for me to use in the future. Waiting for rain drying to do the rails with next five (or fewer) gallons.
Note photos of stained floor and brightened but not-stained-yet rails. Cloudy day with deck still damp from rain. Really not as ugly as photos suggest; in fact I am satisfied. On sunny days, I would call the average color brown with this clear oil preservative, in contrast to the reddish hue with my previous tinted stain; just not as shiny as I anticipated. I would call the cleaned and brightened unstained rails yellowish-tan? Incidentally, that darkest board in the upper part of the first photo, and left of center in the third photo, is the one I mentioned staining twice (again, not a problem).
Also FYI the square part of the deck (first three photos) had light sanding (circular 60 grit), but the long part (4th photo) had none. They look the same to me, though while sanding I noticed I did remove considerable black color.
I can send more pics when the whole job is done. I’m looking forward to it.
Actually the pictures did not load in the order I submitted them. Re my comments, they are above #4,#3 , #2,#1. So here it is: unsanded, dark one left of center, area that needed significant sanding, and lastly the dark one near top of picture. Sorry.
-TWP is not intended to bead water but shed water. This is normal as hight quality stains need to breathe.
-The darker spots in the wood are from not prepping correctly. The wood should have been stripped better.
-TWP Clear has not color and also not UV protection from graying. It needs to be tinted for UV protection. This means your wood will gray naturally in months.
-TWP is not designed to have a shine of any level. It is a penetrating coating that soaks into the wood. Having a shiny coating will result in blistering and peeling.
Shelf life unopened?I have stripped and brightened/neutralized big 30 year old redwood deck and ready to stain with transparent TWP 1500. Would like to order more from one of TWP’s recommended online vendors to be sure I don’t run out in middle of job, especially considering the wet on wet method described–and the usual fall/winter rain here in northern CA. Willing to store extra leftowver for re-application in 3 years, but will it still be good then? The first batch I just received has June 19, 2020 stamped on label on bottom of can, assume the manufacture date.
See here for tips on the TWP Help Site: https://www.twpstainhelp.com/shelf-life-of-twp/
Thank you!
…and, after stripping and brightening/neutralizing, I decided to do some additional perfectionist light sanding with 60 grit. Does that mean I have to brighten again? It doesn’t look like the color has changed from sanding other than some remaining black reduced, and a few streaks of newish red color of redwood showing up. But I read several places on your website that brightening is necessary after sanding. Even if already done before sanding? Guessing the brightener absorbed deeper than the minimal layer sanded off. Incidentally, since my deck was already clean from stripping, when I applied the brightener, the boards brightened equally whether I used the bristle brush or not, and the solution brushed off was quite clean.
The brighten is basically used after sanding to open up the wood pores and then you would pressure rinse that off and that would help to also remove any sand dust.
Thanks, again.
Will this work on Alaskan Yellow Cedar decking? Covered front porch – so not a lot of direct weather(rain) on it. New Cedar, air dried for 12 years – and resawed this summer to 1″ thick for the decking Leaving the saw mill side up as it’s super consistent textured finish (no blade marks at all) and not smooth. So what kind of pre-treatment should I get. Would 100 series or 1500 be best? Will use clear (I like the yellow color is now).
Either series would be fine to use and would work well. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
It’s not a smooth finish.
Unless rough sawn, you will still need to weather and prep.
Thanks , it’s rough sawn. Will still clean it then stain it. Thanks
I’m so tired of having to strip and brighten my 12 X 18 deck.
FIrst time was due to company hired damaging wood with power washer and apply sealant/stain (not sure what brand) on damp wood day after a storm. (Had to strip and brighten the whole deck)
Second time was due to using Olympic Maximum Cedartone that was applied in the Fall and by Spring the next year it was peeling off. (Recently stripped and brightened horizontal surfaces)
I don’t have the energy to strip and brighten the whole deck again. The vertical area so far aren’t peeling so I’m leaving that. When it does I’m thinking about having a different kind of railings installed that aren’t wood.
I really don’t care if the horizontal parts I have prepped match the Olympic Maximum Cedartone railings or not. I just want a good product for my horizontal surfaces that doesn’t have to be stripped and brightened. Would like something that penetrates the wood and can reapply every couple years if possible. I live in Kansas City, MO so I have access to most of the brands available.
TWP 100 or 1500 Series will work.
Thank you!
Have you tried Vermont Natural Coatings poly whey exterior stains? I’m a TWP fan and Wolman F&P fan and I have a customer who is desiring this “cheesy” product and I’m leery of venturing into unchartered territory???
We have not but any coting that creates a shine on a horizontal deck will lead to peeling and blistering in our experience.
Will this work for an exotic hardwood? I’d like to use it just because of its availability in my area.
Yes, just one coat.
Hi, I need to stain the floor a new (covered) screened porch. Material is PT lumber. Do i need to wait longer than the recommended 4-12 months to stain since the deck is covered? Would TWP be the best option or should I go with Defy or another brand? Thanks.
The TWP would work well and 4-12 months and then prep is good.
Weathered PT deck that I stained 3 years ago is faded pretty bad. What do you advise to prep and clean for TWP 1500?
Use their Gemini Restore Kit: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/gemini-restore-a-deck-kit-review/
Boy I am in a bind. After doing tons of research I settled on TWP as per your review. But it is nowhere to be found in Illinois. And I needed it yesterday. Any suggestions where I might be able to find this? Or has it been discontinued?
No, it is not discontinued but you will never find quality stains like TWP in a big box store like Lowes or HD. Best to check with the manufacturer directly for help.
Just sanded and brighten our 4years old cedar deck in Seattle, facing north, half in shade, half in the sun. Thinking between Twp 100 or 1500 for staining. I’ve read that sanding is closing the pores in the wood. Should we wait some time before staining?
Clean and brighten the wood for final prep and then 1 coat of the TWP 100 Series.
Our cedar is quite smooth, not so rough. Is Twp 100 still the best product for us?
Yes.
How many sq feet do you think I’ll get out of 1 gallon?
About 150-250.
Also, is there need to stain bottom side of the deck , and if so, can I use some different/ cheaper product in there or just sealer? And does bottom side need to be prep and brighten as well before staining/sealing?
Not needed.
Our cedar seems quite smooth, not that rough ( see pic). Is Twp100 still the best choice of product for us, or some other stain would perform/ last longer on it?
Here are pics.
Our cedar is quite smooth, not that rough ( see pics) Is TWP100 still the best choice of product for us?
I live outside of San Francisco Ca. ( Novato) I have a redwood neck that needs staining. Does the deck need to be power washed first or can you use soap, water and bleach and then stain the deck? The deck was last done perhaps three or four years ago.
One attached photo is in the sun, the other is in the shade.
Thank you.
Use a stain stripper and pressure washing for prep and then a wood brightener.
quick question – any reviews about the TWP WS series?
We have not reviewed that version.
Do you ship to Ak?
We do not sell products from this website.
I had a few spots to repair on my deck using Famowood latex filler and I’m in the process of sanding my my entire deck. Will TWP 1500 (Black Walnut) look OK on the spots that were filled? Thanks!
No, a wood filler should never be used on a deck with a semi-transparent stain. It will not work and will not “stain” to blend. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-filler-for-decks/
My deck has an existing coat of TWP 1500 on it, but after several years it is looking worn and in need of refreshing. Can I just apply another coat of TWP 1500 after power-washing? Also…is it supposed to dry with a flat finish? I have noticed a somewhat shiny finish in some areas. Thanks for your advice!
Use their Gemini Restore A Deck Kit while pressure washing. Yes it is supposed to be a flat finish. If it was shiny then it was over-applied.
where can I buy this product?
Check with their website.
I have a white cedar deck, new in June 2013, when it was stained with one coat of TWP 200.
It was then power washed and restained, one coat, in June 2015, and one coat again in June 2016, and one coat again June 2017, a total of four coats.
It has not been touched since June 2017, so has endured the winters of 2017/18, 2018/19, and 2019/20, and the summers of 2017, 2018, 2019.
The TWP 200 was what the deck painter recommended, and of course I went along with that.
Durability and wear has proven to be a problem, and in looking into it, I now find that TWP 200 is not designed for decks.
Worse, I’m told that it will be extremely difficult to apply a different product, TWP 100 or 1500, due to the deep penetration of the 200. It may even be difficult to apply more TWP 200. It is not even certain that the TWP 200 could be successfully stripped.
No treatment of any sort has been applied since June 2017.
Maybe this three year gap may have affected the amount of protection, and the amount of penetration, of the TWP 200 product. Maybe the wood is no longer as strong or resistant to receiving a coating of TWP 100 or 1500, but I don’t know.
The thought is to sand the deck, wash it, leave it a couple of days, then apply the TWP 1500, but nobody seems to be sure that will actually work.
What is your expert opinion?
Many thanks,
Chris
It can be stripped. Strip and brighten with the Restore A Deck Kits. Once removed, you can use the 100 or 1500.
You cannot apply the 100 or 1500 over the 200.
OK, so should I first sand the deck, or just apply the stripper directly on to the stain that’s there?
Chris
No need to sand first. Apply and then pressure wash off. Using the additives will make it easier: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Are you referring to the TWP Restore a Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit plus their Safe Strip Remover and Cleanser Kit, or are you referring to the RAD Restore a Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit?
Chris
RAD Restore a Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit
When washing off the stripper, how do I avoid the stripper splashing on the wood railings and the side of the house?
Just rinse right away any overspray and you should be okay.
what’s the best stain sealer for Cumaru?
One of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
I bought a remote tavern 4 years ago. The decks and ramps and stairs are in various stages of neglect.I have no knowledge of what has been done in the past but it looks like mostly nothing. I did find 5 different kinds of sealers in storage shed.
Question 1) I did find 2, 1 gal cans of TWP 1501 unopened. are they still good?
2) I pressure washed everything 2 weeks ago, now just waiting for enough dry days .I don”t care about color matching, just want to preserve the wood. Is pressure washing good enough prep? I did power wash most of the mold and mildew off.
3) I could buy more TWP 1501 to finish the job or switch to a different TWP product. Also I can use different products in different areas. Thanking you min advance for your insights
1. No idea until you open them.
2. You should use a deck cleaner and a wood brightener as well.
3. Stick with the same.
I have a pine pool deck that has seasoned for 2 years and has never had any stain or sealer put on it what do you recommend the deck is in direct sun light and has heavy use during the summer months I like the TWP 1501 cedartone would you guys recommend this for a pool deck ? The deck size is 1800 square feet. The deck is in the middle of the yard and never has and debris on it such as leaves. Thanks for your help
Yes, the TWP 1500 would work very well for this. Make sure to prep first with their Gemini Restore Kit.
Where can I get samples of the different color stains that are available in TWP 1500 Series
Check with them directly.
Hi,
I have a few questions on the staining process on my PT Pine deck. I installed in in early 2019 October and have been letting it weather. I have tried a number of samples from different stain manufacturers and the TWP stain samples should be coming in this week. I wanted to know if i should pressure wash and sand for the stain process or just pressure wash. I also am reading alot about applying wet on wet on PT Pine wood. Can you explain what it means to apply wet on wet and with what tools?
Thank you!
For prep, use a deck cleaner while pressure washing. Brightener after. Only one coat if suing TWP on new wood.
How do you recommend applying the TWP 1500 wet on wet? I plan on using a spray pump for the ballusters as well.
For new wood you only apply one coat, not two wet on wet. You can spray and then back brush the drips, etc.
I used the TWP 1520 Pecan on our cedar shake siding (2 coats wet-on-wet after stripping and brightening) and am very happy with the results in Houston, TX!
Hi – if you could answer a few questions, please.
1. What’s the difference between TWP-100 and 1500? Can’t seem to find that info. We live in NY State – Buffalo NY – and want to seal (not necessarily stain) our 14 month old PT pine wood deck. It has been power washed and is ready for treatment. Read somewhere that NY doesn’t allow the use of the 100, have to use the 1500, but also read reviews that 1500 isn’t as good as the 100 in all respects. Do you have a recommendation as to which product to use? Doesn’t have to be the TWP – could be any other one you recommend, like Defy Extreme (one we also looked at) or another product.
2. Another Q: Are stains also sealers? We’d like to just seal the wood without staining, but if we have to use a stain, the least pigmented one is what we prefer. Understanding that the more opaque the better the prevention and the longer time between maintenance, we like the color of the wood as-is and would prefer not to add color if avoidable.
Also, we have 5 almost 10×10 posts and pergola tops that would need to be sealed at the least. Since they won’t be walked on, what could we use for those that would last the longest, seeing as we have snow, and now with climate change rain and humidity are becoming a challenge?
3. Lastly, I’ve read that water based stains/sealers have to be sanded off, whereas oil based stains/sealers can just be power washed when the time comes to redo. It seems like that should be just the opposite. The Q is: Is that true? Since redoing would have to be done every 2-3 years, we’d obviously like the easiest way to do that, by just power washing and not having to sand. The deck is 13×32 and would be a job to sand.
Thank you for your help. Really need to get this done before the temperature drops further and it can’t be done this year, and trying to figure out which to use by reading reviews is frustrating. Seems they ALL have good and bad reviews, which makes it even worse to choose.
Attached is a picture of the deck. The yellow marks at the top indicate the pergola tops which haven’t been installed yet, and the red marks you can ignore. Hope it’s large enough for you to see.
1. VOCs fo certain states. The TWP 1500 is what you use for NY and works just as good as the 100 series.
2. Stains are sealers. You must have a stain if you want to prevent UV graying. Use a semi-transparent stain like the TWP.
3. Depends on the brand, not the base type. See here for our top brands that can be cleaned and recoated as needed: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
You should also read this about new wood as you cannot stain this brand new deck yet: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
My understanding of “new wood” from reading stuff is wood that’s not been weathered. This deck’s been weathered for 14 months, so I wouldn’t think it would be considered “new wood”.
The pergola top is new so best to wait until weathered and stain all at the same time.
Should I use TWP WS20 on a glider I sanded down to the bare wood or the TWP 1500
TWP 1500.
I installed all new decking on a second story deck about a month ago. I used cedar boards. I love the new look of the deck and would like to keep it this way. I’ve read some of your reviews saying I need to wait 4 months or more before applying a sealer. If I do that it will have to wait until spring and we have harsh winter here in Wisconsin and I’m concerned I will loose the fresh new look of the deck by then. Is there a product I can apply now instead of waiting? Thanks.
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Existing weathered grey redwood deck
How best match new decking-only 5% of deck
See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-blend-new-and-old-deck-boards/
We live outside Nashville, TN and our deck gets full-sun in the afternoon and we have trees that help shade parts of it. We have used 2 different products on our deck and haven’t been happy with either. In 2008 we used Sherwin Williams Clear Deckscapes Advanced Waterbourne Formula. In or around 2011 or 2012 we used Olympic Maximum Clear Waterproofing Sealant. We are very late in re-sealing the deck, but I just pressure washed with 2200 to 2500 PSI with a 15 degree nozzle. from reading the posts, that is really high, but that was what it took to get off the black surface. In some areas it damaged the wood on the surface or made it fuzzy looking. I am posting pictures of what it looks like after pressure washing and have several questions on what to do and use to get it looking great again. 1. (Image 1) I have a few boards that are warping and pulling up the screws. Can I turn these over and reuse, try to re-secure with a new screw, or replace them? 2. (Image 2) The wood we used is YellaWood and some boards have a much more prominent grain. With age this seems to be more pronounced almost looking wet all the time. Is there anything I can do to make it blend better? 3. (Image 3) In the center of the large area of deck we had a teak table and chairs. It looks like the wood has a black cast to it. Is there anything I can do to remove the darkness and make it blend better? 4. (Image 4) Some of the top rails look fuzzy. Should I sand them and what grit should be used? 5. (Image 5) This shows what the wood looked like before pressure washing and the clean deck in background. It is the pergola over garage that has not been prepped yet. Is pressure washing the best way to do that? 6. (Image 6) This is the deck after pressure washing. The pergola is really high and we had to use a our 26′ ladder to clean the outside stuff that I couldn’t get to from on the deck. It’s not perfect, but after 3 long days I was ready to be finished with the pressure washer. The size of the deck is 26′ x 15′ and 10′ x 9′. the stairs and bottom landing are 6′ x 14′. The pergola is 18′ x 20′ x 10′ high. There is yellawood lattice between all the posts around the deck, the tallest portion is 8′ wide x 5′ high. There is approximately 86 lineal feet of hand rails. 7. After researching all the different products out there and only a few overlapping on best rated lists, my biggest questions are: a. Since it has been so long since we last sealed, can I use a water based formula to seal? Everything seems to point to those being the best formulation out there. If… Read more »
There are no images and honestly, you should cut down on the content. Makes it very hard to respond too. Thanks
It wont let me add images. When I click on camera it does nothing. I will repost shorter questions.
1. I have a few boards that are warping and pulling up the screws. Can I turn these over and reuse, try to re-secure with a new screw, or replace them?
No, just replace if needed.
2. The wood we used is YellaWood and some boards have a much more prominent grain. With age this seems to be more pronounced almost looking wet all the time. Is there anything I can do to make it blend better?
No.
3. In the center of the large area of deck we had a teak table and chairs. It looks like the wood has a black cast to it. Is there anything I can do to remove the darkness and make it blend better?
We would need a picture to see this issue.
Here us image.
Try applying a wood brightener to all wood and see if that helps.
4. Some of the top rails look fuzzy due to water pressure. Should I sand them and what grit should be used?
60-80 grit.
Since it has been so long since we last sealed (2011 or 2012 with an oil based clear sealant), can I use a water based formula to seal? Everything seems to point to those being the best formulation out there. If not, what is better TWP 100 or 1500.
You can use a water-based stain. Try Defy Extreme or Restore A Deck.
6. The square footage of deck is approximately 600. The pergola is 18′ x 20′ x 10′ high. There is lattice between all the posts around the deck, approximately 440 sq. ft. And about 86 lineal feet of hand rails. How much product should I use?
We need a total sq footage added up plus it depends on the stain brand you choose.
I will estimate 1600 sq ft due to spray loss with lattice. See image below and I will use the defy product.
You will need about 15 gallons for two coats.
Thanks for all your help.
I haven’t seen any reviews of the Outlast Q8 Log Oil. I liked it because there is an additive you can add to protect against carpenter bees which we have a HUGE problem with. Do you know anything about it?
There are other additives that can be added to and exterior stain or paint. Bug Juice is one additive.
I received a can labeled 1501 Cedartone, but it looks like 1503 Dark Oak on my PT fence. Did I receive a mislabeled can or is this due to high absorption rate and age of my fence? The stain itself in the can looks dark.
Pictures attached
That is a result of your age of the wood and absorption rate.
We are stripping a front door that has faded etc due to western exposure. We are in CT. Would the TWP 200 or 1500 be best for color saturation and durability against the sun. The door is made of fir. Thanks for any direction.
TWP 1500.
We are from central Indiana, we had a new rough cut ceder fence installed a year ago and now we are looking to stain it. Wanting to use a semi transparent stain, have been looking at the Cabots Australian Timber Oil stains in a honey teak but after reading on here may go in a different direction any suggestions? Also do I need to prep the fence at all? If so what should I use? I would say it has a semi weathered look to it right now. Any advice? Thanks for the help!
Prep with Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener kits. Stain with TWP 1500 over the Cabot.
I have a new con heart redwood pergola installed about 1 month ago. I want to maintain the natural look of the redwood. Which stain would you recommend. I live in Northern California and the pergola is exposed to the sun most of the day.
Look at Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500. As for new wood, it does need to season for a time and then be prepped first: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thanks for your response. Which TWP 1500 stain choice/color would you recommend to preserve the natural color of my Redwood Con Heart Pergola? Thank you.
Any colored tint that you like will work. Up to you as to how you want to enhance it.
Hello, I live on Long Island NY and had cedar fence installed late September 2018. I am getting ready to have it stained and am thinking about using TWP 1501 Cedartone. The results of your Cedar deck look amazing and I am hoping to have the same with my fence. Two questions:
1. Did you use the TWP Gemini Cleaner/Brightener or any other prep?
2. Did you use 1 or 2 coats.
Thanks in advance!
1. Yes, use this prep.
2. 2 Coats since it is vertical wood and almost a year old. Apply wet on wet.
Ok so after doing more research I’ve landed on AC Transparent Redwood Tone. Based on the pics I added, do you think the deck floor would benefit from ditching the Valspar cleaner in lieu of the RAD system before staining?
We would use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener over the Valspar for your final prep. Not sure about the Redwood 2x4s.
1. Hi, I recently purchased a home with a deck made from redwood (1997). To prepare the neglected deck, I power washed, used a valspar cleaner/brightener and am almost done sanding the entire thing. After reading everything I’ve read I am guessing I shouldve sanded first and then used the Gemini restoration kit and followed by TWP1500? I was initially going to go with Valspar but after finding this site I will go with TWP.
2. I absolutely love the color now that the wood is sanded (pics attached). What color from TWP would preserve this or should I be looking at a boiled linseed oil / tung oil to stay natural?
3. Is it true redwood 2x4s cannot be found anymore? I have boards that need to be replaced and a local lumber shop told me this.
Thank you!
I would like to keep the original natural wood color for our newly replaced horizontal deck surfaces which are pressure treated pine. When it rained on the new wood, the grains and natural color were highlighted and absolutely beautiful!
I see colors of 1500 Clear, 1515 Honeytone and 1530 Natural. Would they be able to recreate this color effect and not darken with re-coating annually? If so, which would you recommend? If not, which would likely produce the closest effect without darkening over the years?
Look at TWP 1515 Honeytone. That offers UV protection and is closest to a wet look. Recoating over the years does not darken it.
1.) Would you recommend Armstrong Clark Transparent Natural (or other AC color) or TWP 1500 stain?
2.) TWP talks about 2 initial coats – wet on wet. Pardon my ignorance but do they mean doing a few boards at a time then immediately re-applying to the same few boards before moving on OR applying stain to the entire deck surface then re-applying the second coat.
3.) Is it necessary to initially apply 2 coats for new pressure treated pine wood?
1. Either would work well.
2. Depends on how fast you apply. Typically the second coat goes on within 20-60 minutes of the first coat.
3. No, just one coat for new wood.
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thank you very much for your help!
You are welcome!
Hello, I’m about to install a 1000 square-foot IPE deck, and the wood will be delivered in a couple days. I was advised to directly put IPE oil on the railings before install, when I receive the product in order so that it does not crack. According to the sales man, if I don’t put that right away I will risk cracking and checking on the rails. I’ve also read your form that says that I should wait 2 to 3 months before doing anything to the wood. My goal is to avoid any cracking on the railing. This one is really expensive as I’m sure you know, Do you think that it would help to avoid potential cracks and checking on the railing, to put IPE oil now on the rails, and then in 2 to 3 months remove it, And then put Armstrong mahogany? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I really want to do it right. Thank you for your time. Thank you for your awesome forum.
To be more exact, ultimately I want to put Armstrong mahogany finish, I don’t want to use IPE oil. But I want to not have any cracks on my railing. I’m trying to find the best way to avoid cracks, I’m willing to do the extra work and spend the extra money, but I want to know the best way to avoid the cracks. Because the gentleman that sold me the wood said that I need to stain it right away with IPE oil. Otherwise it will totally crack on the surface of my railing. What do you think? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Cracks are normal for exterior wood and will happen no matter what and cannot be prevented. Best to wait a few months, prep, then stain with the AC.
Any reason I cannot use TWP 1500 over TWP 100 series (the latter apples 3 yrs ago)? Any reason I should stay with the 100 series over the 1500 series? I’m in NC.
You can use the 1500 but no advantage. They last about the same for NC.
Hi I have gotten myself into a bad spot with my fence and I’m looking for some advice. I live in Canada and I have used this stain called Penofin in a red can. It is an oil base stain and it did not turn out well because I did not prep the wood well enough and the grey is showing thru the transparent stain. Most stains sold here in Canada at your Lowe’s or Home Depot are all water base now. My question is how do I now remove the oil base stain so I can apply a water base one? If cleaning the oil base off and putting another water base product on is not possible what method do you recommend here to at least remove the Penofin and then go across the boarder to get another oil base as it will be ok to go 1 oil base over another?
The Penofin can be removed with a deck stain stripper like this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Use the wood brightener after to neutralize.
Whats the advantage of the 1500 series compared to the 100 series?
Slightly better UV protection.
Thanks
Can I use 1500 on a NEW pressure treated deck?
After weathering and prep you can: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I live in Rainier, Oregon. We just replaced our red cedar deck and covered it with an extended roof which has a ceiling of tongue and groove cedar. Some of the decking is new store bought wood, some is salvaged and planed wood from the former deck, and some is new wood just harvested and milled during the project. We began this project in November of 2018 and we are finishing up railings and benches currently. The ceiling of the lengthy eaves around the house perimeter is original tongue and groove cedar which was treated with linseed oil many years ago and is long overdue for refinishing. We want all of the cedar to be finished with the same look and prefer that some grain show.
We live in the rainy Pacific NW and are surrounded by a small woodland. So mosses and algae are an issue.
Also we built a sunroom underneath the deck, so waterproofing the deck is an issue.
Would you recommend a TWP product? What would you suggest for preparing the wood for treatment? How long would you wait to apply an oil based product?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
The TWP stains would work well after the wait and prep.
Hi. My contractor used ready seal late summer of 2016. It has been power washed dirt still shows in some areas.
I want to change to TWP 1500. What has to be done to transition? Thanks in advance!
Strip and brighten the wood for the prep.
Thanks I get the stripping. But, is the brightener another step??
Yes. You must neutralize a deck stripper with a wood brightener.
I live in Northern Virginia and had my deck of pressure treated wood (probably pine) rebuilt in the fall of 2015. The contractor applied Thompson’s Water Seal Penetrating Timber Oil in “Natural” to the deck approximately 2-3 months after the deck was completed. Three plus years later, the deck looks good, except it is gray in color. There are no visible signs of mold or mildew, which is amazing, since we had record rain in our area last year. I want to have the deck power washed and re-stained this month. I want to try the TWP 1500. Should I request that my contractor “strip” the deck of whatever remains of the Thompson’s Water Seal before he applies the TWP 1500 stain? If so, what does the stripping entail? Is it a light sanding of the deck and deck rails before the power washing is done? Are there products that the contractor will need to use to strip the old stain? Honestly, it doesn’t look like there is anything to strip. Also, which TWP 1500 transparent color is light brown in color? Thank you for your help!
Yes, strip to be safe. Brightener after. Stipping will remove any sealer that is still in the wood so the TWP can properly soak in. No need to sand. TWP in Pecan might be the color you would want.
So there are two additional products I need to purchase, a product to “strip” the deck and a product to “brighten” the deck? Neither the “stripping” or “brightening” processes have anything to do with the power washing process. Is that correct? What two products are you recommending I purchase for the stripping and brightening?
The stripping and brightening happens while you are doing the pressure washing. Look at the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits.
Okay. Great! Thank you for the clarification.
Does the Twp natural contain UV protection?
TWP 1530 Natural is tinted (not clear) so yes, it has UV protection.
I have a two year old deck and purgola that were sealed last year with “THOMPSONS WATERSEAL TH.042851-16 Semi-Transparent Waterproofing Stain Woodland Cedar”. Initially they looked good but the Wisconsin weather was hard on the stain after just one winter and are in bad need of reapplication and based on the Thompson’s poor results, looking for a better product for much better results. What would be your recommendations? Either TWP 1500 or TWP 100? Do I need to remove ALL previous stain with power wash/sanding or will the TWP brighter do an acceptable job before applying new stain? Would I expect to reapply annually with TWP or would I get several years before needed to reapply?
TWP 1500 would work well. All of the current stain will need to be sanded off.
We are in New England with a 1 year old Garapa deck. The deck was stained mid-summer last year after it was built with another product (Penofin Hardwood) that after only a few weeks started showing black discolorations which we are told are due to mold. We want to switch to using TWP 1500 this year with a power wash and sand first to remove the old stain, but the instructions on TWP 1500 mention a 4-12 month weathering period. Since this deck was stained soon after being built do we need to strip the old stain first and then let it weather or just apply the TWP immediately?
Strip and brighten for prep and you will be good to stain.
We live in NW Georgia. We have a very large deck around an above ground pool. Deck is 3 years old and had Thompson’s water seal applied 2 years ago. What is best option for poolside deck. . .holding up to lots of water 3-4 months out of the year? (Small children in/out of the pool).
All deck stain coatings can be “bleached” out from chlorine in the pool. Because of this you will need to prep and reapply more often. Best to use a brand that can be easily cleaned and reapplied as needed. Try one of these brands: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
Hi, We installed a pressure treated pine deck about 4 years ago. After about 6 months, and making sure the wood was dry, we stained it with another brand. It was beautiful for about 6 months. The next year I stained the flooring again but it is not holding up. Do I need to completely strip the wood to use TWP 1500 Semi-transparent stain? I also have two other areas of decking/dock that are one to two years old, bare wood. What do I need to do to prepare all of my decking?
Yes, you have to remove the current coatings when switching brands of deck stain. Clean and brighten the non-stained areas.
Where can I buy the cedartone 1500 series in Connecticut. Specifically close to a 06804 zipcode
You would have to check with TWP.
Built a new 12′ x 34′ deck around my place at the lake in August 2018 using pressure treated pine. I plan to stain the deck in next month (April 2019). With the deck being new it is not very dirty or discolored. I plan to pressure wash the deck prior to applying the stain but was wonder if more prep will be necessary. The location is in NE Tennessee. The sun tracks from one end of the deck to the other. The sun hits the deck mostly all the time. There is plenty of space under and around the deck so I am not concerned about lack of air flow. I am looking for a stain that is fairly easy to apply, that will penetrate and last a good while. I would appreciate any advice. Thank you in advance.
Yes, you need to prep. Use their Gemini Restore Kit. See this for more info: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Any suggestions regarding which brand of stain other than the ones listed in the link above? Oil or water base?
Thanks for the reply. Any suggestions for stains other than what is listed in the link above? Should I go with oil or water base?
TWP 100 or 1500 Series will work very well. They are oil based.
Had a new redwood arbor installed last year. Corner support post gets hit by the lawn sprinklers all the time. Live in the San Francisco bay area.
Can TWP be used on arbors? Guessing Calif. Redwood color is best match to the natural color of the wood?
Yes, the TWP 1500 would work very well for this. Any color you like will work. Make sure to clean and brighten the wood for the prep.
After doing some more research, I realized this is a oil based stain. I would prefer to use a water based stain for the redwood for ease of clean up. Is there any stain you recommend for redwood.
I might also add a horizontal fence using mahogany. Would the same stain work for it?
Use Restore A Deck Wood stain for both wood types.
We live 3 miles off the Gulf in southern Florida. One month ago we installed a pressure and kiln dried pine deck using 2×6 boards and just this week we finished a planter box and slat wrapped posts. We are now officially out of the rainy season but high humidity is almost always a factor. Our UV is rarely under an 8 so sun bleaching is a concern as is mold and mildew growth in shady areas.
With that said, how long should we wait before sanding and prepping and what stain do you recommend that will give us our best shot at achieving a medium cedar tone (similar to the color of our window rainscreens), color retention and mold and mildew prevention? Are clear coats ever recommended?
Also, we will soon be refacing the entrance of our house (location gets minimal exposure) with cedar cladding. What do you recommend we use there considering we would like to achieve a close color match and when should it be applied?
Try the TWP 1501 Cedartone color. Clean and brighten the wood for prep. Just one coat of the TWP. You can use the same for the cedar cladding.
You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain.
Live in Colorado. Deck gets full sun in morning that fades to partial and then none. Deck is 3 years old. Given the altitude, cold and lack of humidity in the Denver area, what is the best stain for deck?
Try the TWP 100 Series.
I have a large 700 Sq Ft deck and worked many hours to prep for staining. I thought I did my home work and deceided to use TWP 1500 stain. After 3 coats the deck looked great. I completed this in Sept 2017, after a normal winter and spring in northern Illinois. I cleaned the winter dirt from the deck with soap and water and the half of the deck exposed to the sun had faded and looked like years of wear and tear, the other half was as nice a when I stained it. I was not real happy! Emailed TWP with my story and never got a responce of any kind.
You cannot apply 3 coats of TWP to a deck. TWP is penetrating and if over applied, can fail prematurely. This is actually not the stains fault. Your prep in the Spring may have contributed to the problem as well.
Would only staining one side would be bad? What’s the most natural color for the 1500 series? Is there a link to any pics? Thanks!
You are only supposed to stain the exposed wood. Honeytone is the lightest tint. Check out the TWP site for pics.
My husband just built a pine deck in June and we live in Michigan, can you please tell us which TWP is best to use the 100 or 1500 and how long should we wait with pine before we use the product?
The 100 Series. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I need to back prime my cedar siding which absorbs moisture from the rear side and pushes off the primer and paint or opaque stain. What is the best product for back priming in this situation?
TWP is not a primer and will not work. No deck stain can be used as a primer. Not sure what would be your best option here as we do not work with primers.
I just stained my deck with TWP 1500, rustic color. The rails are quite old, and the floor is a few years old. I cleaned and brightened everything well with Deck Restore before staining. The rails came out a warm brown, the floor is definitely reddish. Why two colors? If I put another coat on the rails, will it help the color match?
The difference in color is based on the wood age. Older wood is much more absorbent. Adding another coat should help some but it will still be slightly different.
Will TWP 1500 work on western red cedar siding ?
Yes. Works great on cedar siding.
Hi. My covered porch is made of mahogany. The old finish was peeling up in spots and was worn away in the high traffic areas. The wood is faded here. Do you think the wood will come back in these areas and what is the recommended finish. Thanks!
REmove all of the previous coatings and then use 1 coat of TWP 1516 Rustic. It will look great. Redo every year for Mahogany wood.
We Need Help…we have a cedar deck…23 years old. we live in Michigan. It has been stained over the years with a semi-solid stain and now we stain with a solid stain. We have always used a Behr product and recently (when we replaced some of the boards, the stain has been bubbling and peeling. 3-4 years ago we had some boards replaced that were rotting we let the new boards weather a year then used a deck prep product before reapplying new stain. All the the new deck boards peeled. The next year we sanded them and reapplied….same issue…the boards peeled. Almost all of the older boards retained the stain. We have a new round of new boards and want to know what to do. Should we restain the whole deck again? or just the new peeling boards? Let the new boards weather again? It didn’t seem to make a difference. The stain is coming off in strips. Please recommend!
Hello,
The only way to fix this is to sand all off, 100% of the current stain so you are left with bare wood. Once this is done, lightly wash with a deck cleaner and then use a penetrating wood stain like the TWP.