TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain Review 2022 4.3/5 (33)

by Deck Stain Help

This post was updated on January 13, 2022

TWP 1500 Series Review

Here at DeckStainHelp.com we take pride in the fact that we have become the Internet’s number one resource for all things exterior wood and deck restoration related. As years before, our customers who have used TWP wood and deck stain continue to be satisfied by the appearance and longevity of their deck stain projects. If you have used TWP wood and deck stain in the past, or if you are using it for the first time this year, we appreciate your input, so feel free to leave a comment below and pictures of your completed projects if you have them.


TWP 1500 Stain Review

TWP 1500 Stain Review

TWP 1500 Stain RatingsImportant Note: This is an updated 2022 TWP 1500 Series Review.

TWP® (Total Wood Preservative) 1500 Series Deck Stain was brought onto the market in 2010 as the permanent substitute for TWP 500 Series. TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain is a semi-transparent, oil-based, EPA registered wood preservative.

TWP 1500 Stain is specially formulated to use on all exterior wood surfaces. Its outstanding UV resistant blend prevents wood graying and discoloration. It is commonly used on decks, fences, log cabins, wood siding, and cedar shakes. It is offered in 10 shades that enhance the natural beauty of the wood.

TWP 1500 Deck Stain Rating

TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Scores (1-10)

Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8

– The appearance of TWP 1500 Wood Stain on our test deck was a warm rich finish. The wood grain was enhanced and highlighted effortlessly. The 1501 Cedartone color was a little browner (not as orange) than a conventional cedar stain color.

TWP 1501 Cedartone

TWP 1501 Cedartone

Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9

– At the 2-year mark, TWP was holding up well against UV graying. This was one of the top deck stains tested as far as reflecting UV radiation that typically creates wood fading and discoloring issues. TWP 1500 retained about 90% of its initial color at 1 year and 70% at 2 years.

Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9

– TWP 1500 displayed zero signs of peeling and only a slight amount of wear. TWP is not film-forming. The stain dives deep into the wood fibers, which reduces any chance of wearing or peeling on the wood surface.

Cost Per Square Foot: 8.5

– TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain cost us $39 per gallon. We applied 2 coats “wet on wet” to our 400 square foot test deck. Coverage for the TWP 1500 was 125 square feet per gallon for 2 coats applied wet on wet. The cost broke down per square foot was .35 cents.

Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9

– In our testing of oil-based deck stains, TWP 1500 offered one of the best resistances to mold spores and fungal growth, which some oil-based stains are known to attract. This was most likely due to the EPA registered mildewcides in the TWP formula. Also contributing to the lack of spores is the use of synthetic and natural oils and a limited amount of linseed oil, which has been known to promote mildew growth.

Ease of Application: 8

– TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain applied fairly well for an oil-based formula. It was necessary to back brush or wipe excess stain to get a nice even finish. TWP 1500 Series Stain dried within 6 hours and we were able to place items back on the deck.

Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9

–At the 2-year inspection, no noticeable darkening was apparent like we have seen with other oil stains. The 1501 Cedartone color essentially lightened up a bit giving a more natural appearance.

Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5

– We are confident that the TWP 1500 Wood Stain would be easy to recoat. A quality deck cleaner could be used to remove common dirt and grime prior to re-staining with TWP 1500 again.

Overall Score TWP 1500 Series at 2 Year Period: 8.5

– The TWP products like 1500 and 100 Series Stains are known to produce a durable long-lasting finish. They have always been a favorite of ours and are consistently one of our top choice stains. We personally use the TWP stains on 300+ deck restorations annually. Ease of application, a beautiful finish, and easy recoating makes TWP 1500 an outstanding professional-grade stain for all exterior wood projects.

Product Information:

TWP Help? Search Google: TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 1500 Series
TWP Stain Facebook Page: TWP Deck and Wood Stains
Cost: $41 per Gallon, $205 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based
Available Colors: 1500 Clear, 1501 Cedartone, 1502 Redwood, 1503 Dark Oak, 1504 Black Walnut, 1511 California Redwood, 1515 Honeytone, 1516 Rustic, 1520 Pecan, 1530 Natural
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data

Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type:  Cedar
Deck Square Footage: 400
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: 
1501 Cedartone

*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take inconsideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.

TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Photos

TWP 1500 Series Stain Review Video

Please Rate This. You may also post comments or ask questions below.

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Ryan Considine
Ryan Considine
3 days ago

Hi, I just recently built a horizontal Wester red cedar fence. I am looking for a protectant stain that i can just reapply and not have to strip every time. Even if it needs to be done every year. Is TWP have a clear to keep the original cedar color and protect it from greying ? Open to all suggestion. I just have a lot of wood at my property, and my deck alone keeps me busy having to strip it every two years or so to restain. I used TWP 1500 and i like it , but when there is a color to the stain it requires stripping to avoid dark spots

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b3ll0v1c
b3ll0v1c(@b3ll0v1c)
2 months ago

I pressure washed my deck and treated with RAD Cleaner and Brightener and I am ready to stain it with TWP 1500. However, I live in the North East and I am facing a couple of issues: 1) almost every morning the deck is covered with dew, and sometime frozen dew, 2) the temperature goes below 40F at night. Is it too wet at this point to use TWP even if I start staining the deck around noon when it is more dry? Does the minimum temperature of 50F refer to when the stain is applied for the entire drying period of 2-12 hours? Thanks.

Jared
Jared
2 months ago

If you are using a stain like the TWP 1500 series which calls for two coats to be applied “wet on wet” and you run out of stain where you are not able to apply the second coat on everything, should you wait for the first coat to dry thoroughly on everything before applying the second coat or should you just leave it and apply only one coat? Thanks as always for the help and advice.

Jared
Jared
2 months ago

Hi. I just stripped, brightened, and stained my deck and stairs. I went with a TWP 1530 Natural stain. The stain looks wonderful on most of the wood but slightly orange in places where the wood underneath was yellowish in color. I plan on doing another maintenance coat at the same time next year. If I stay with the same brand and series can I go to a slightly darker color without having to strip the original stain back off? I was hoping to just get TWP’s Gemini kit to clean and brighten and then just to apply one coat of a darker TWP 1500 stain. Thanks for your help and for all the wonderful information on this website. It’s by far the best resource on all of this that I’ve come across.

Jared
Jared
2 months ago

Thanks for the super fast response. Can I expect the wood to darken slightly over time from UV in which case the orange color in places may no longer be an issue as the yellowish wood underneath darkens? Maybe it will all look great and more uniform after it has time to weather a bit. This is my first time using just a stain like this so I don’t have any experience to go on.

John
John
3 months ago

What color in the 1500 series (semi-transparent)would you use on a 20 year old teak deck?Also as it’s a hardwood would you advise one coat or the wet on wet finish?

Nadia M.
Nadia M.
7 months ago

Hello,

I’ve stripped all the railings and spindles of my deck to bare wood with RAD (that was a lot of work), hand sanded where needed with 60/80 grit paper and then used the brightener. There was also some rotten wood but that was replaced last summer 2020, I’ve just cleaned that too with RAD cleaner and brightened after.

I’m staining everything in TWP 1500 series in dark oak. I’ve followed all directions using a good brush but it looks so ugly, it looks like there is dirt on the spindles trapped under the stain. There seems to be beads/bubbles of dirt on the spindles under the stain, there was nothing like that on the bare wood. It looks worse than before, and before they had an ugly Superdeck stain. What could be wrong ? Please see pictures of the spindles/railing before staining and after. I’m now reading that I should have used a wood conditioner first. Should I do that, and if yes which conditioner do you recommend ?

I’ve also used this same TWP stain in dark oak on an outdoor wood table and that came out nice. Please help! I’ve stopped staining for now as I don’t want to have to strip everything again. Thank you.

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Nadia M.
Nadia M.
7 months ago

Thank you for your reply. So you don’t recommend the wood conditioner prior to restaining ? Or mineral spirits ? I’ve worked so much stripping/prepping this and it’s so disappointing to see this ugly result now. Thank you again. Please let me know if there is anything I can do.

Steve
Steve
9 months ago

I refinished a pressure treated deck last year, pressure washed, sanded and 2 coated with TWP 100 series. Is there any reason I can’t apply TWP 1500 Cedartone over the 100 for a maintenance coat? I get it, the standard answer is going to be strip and brighten but I’m wondering why the 1500 couldn’t soak in as a maintenance coat?

Bryan Keil
Bryan Keil
9 months ago

I am redoing my deck of about 500 square feet. The wood is clear redwood that is about 20 years old. I have been using a solid stain on it and I think it would be very difficult to sand smooth. I also do not like that the wood was butted close when installed creating puddles on the deck. I plan on removing all of the wood a few feet at a time and putting it through a thickness planer and reinstalling it with 1/4 ” gaps using screws, possibly stainless as the nails back out constantly. I also live near San Francisco, about 1 mile from the ocean. Not a lot of hot and never freezing or snow.
My question is about aging. As the wood is 20 years old, when I plane it, will I have to let it age or can I install the finish right away. I would love to finish each section before reinstalling it as will be just a bit easier.
Also, should I use TWP 100 or TWP 1500? I do get sun more days than not.

Dennis
Dennis
10 months ago

Hello, I live in southern Wisconsin and have a 630’ x 6’ elevated walkway from my backyard crossing over wetlands onto the beach. The walkway is 3 years old, pressure treated yellow pine and has not been oiled/stained yet. The topside is slightly grey and weathered. I’m looking for the easiest possible way to finish the walkway with the least amount of preparations. My pressure washer and hose will not extend 600 feet plus I’m concerned about using deck cleaning chemicals over the wetlands area. Question 1) Will a stiff brushing do well enough on the walkway prior to oiling/staining? I can care less about the color of the walkway when finished as I am more interested in max protection from UV, rain, snow and harsh weather. Question 2) I’m thinking oil would be best due to least amount of prep work in between reapplying oil every couple years. Thinking TWP 100 or TWP 1500?? or again, a product that doesn’t require sanding, stripping, ect. in between reapplication every couple years. Thought, thanks.

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Allison
Allison
10 months ago

We used the the 1599 series in cedertone on our redwood fence and the results don’t look great (it really emphasizes the knots in the wood and made them look very dark). Do you think it is an application or prep issue? The fence was pressure washed a few days before applying. Thank you!

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Allison
Allison
10 months ago

Thank you. Do you know if and how quickly it will mellow? I really loved the look of the wood after pressure cleaning and brightening, but we wanted to use a tinted application to get the UV protection.

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Kristie
Kristie
11 months ago

Hi, on the 100 series you suggested waiting at least 4 months for the wood to age, but you didn’t say the same on the 1500 series review. Is the 1500 series better formulated to go on brand new wood or do I still need to let it age? Also, do I need to sand the whole surface after letting it age or just power wash? I’ve never heard of doing this before. Thanks for the reviews and taking the time to answer!!

Bev Brooks
Bev Brooks
11 months ago

I am about to have a very large, expensive pavilion built on my lakeside property. After reading the reviews of the TWP 100 Pro Series stain, I am convinced that it is a quality stain, and I understand it is used on log cabins. Therefore, I assume it is good for use on a pavilion, but I am scared to death. How in the world do you apply the product hanging from a ladder, and get a good job on intricate high ceilings, and large interior and exterior areas?

Richard
Richard
1 year ago

Not enough stain? Water doesn’t bead.
I fully stripped, cleaned, and brightened my redwood deck, then stained the floor with clear transparent TWP 1500, following wet-on-wet instructions as closely as possible with a thick roller. I didn’t want unnatural color this time.
It looked even, except for one board on which I decided to add a second coat hours later after it dried, because it looked dull and maybe under-stained. That one remained darker than the rest, though no tackiness, and nothing wipeable with paint thinner on a rag. But maybe it was always a darker board.
But my question is: when we got our first light winter rain here in northern California a week later, I saw none of the beading of water I have always seen after a new coat of oil-based stain (except on the board I had stained twice and a few others). Does that mean I did not put on enough stain? Too late now, I assume. Maybe this brand/formulation with its wet-on-wet instructions is too complicated for me to use in the future. Waiting for rain drying to do the rails with next five (or fewer) gallons.
Note photos of stained floor and brightened but not-stained-yet rails. Cloudy day with deck still damp from rain. Really not as ugly as photos suggest; in fact I am satisfied. On sunny days, I would call the average color brown with this clear oil preservative, in contrast to the reddish hue with my previous tinted stain; just not as shiny as I anticipated. I would call the cleaned and brightened unstained rails yellowish-tan? Incidentally, that darkest board in the upper part of the first photo, and left of center in the third photo, is the one I mentioned staining twice (again, not a problem).
Also FYI the square part of the deck (first three photos) had light sanding (circular 60 grit), but the long part (4th photo) had none. They look the same to me, though while sanding I noticed I did remove considerable black color.
I can send more pics when the whole job is done. I’m looking forward to it.

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Richard
Richard
1 year ago
Reply to  Richard

Actually the pictures did not load in the order I submitted them. Re my comments, they are above #4,#3 , #2,#1. So here it is: unsanded, dark one left of center, area that needed significant sanding, and lastly the dark one near top of picture. Sorry.

Richard
Richard
1 year ago

Shelf life unopened?I have stripped and brightened/neutralized big 30 year old redwood deck and ready to stain with transparent TWP 1500. Would like to order more from one of TWP’s recommended online vendors to be sure I don’t run out in middle of job, especially considering the wet on wet method described–and the usual fall/winter rain here in northern CA. Willing to store extra leftowver for re-application in 3 years, but will it still be good then? The first batch I just received has June 19, 2020 stamped on label on bottom of can, assume the manufacture date.

Richard
Richard
1 year ago

Thank you!

Richard
Richard
1 year ago

…and, after stripping and brightening/neutralizing, I decided to do some additional perfectionist light sanding with 60 grit. Does that mean I have to brighten again? It doesn’t look like the color has changed from sanding other than some remaining black reduced, and a few streaks of newish red color of redwood showing up. But I read several places on your website that brightening is necessary after sanding. Even if already done before sanding? Guessing the brightener absorbed deeper than the minimal layer sanded off. Incidentally, since my deck was already clean from stripping, when I applied the brightener, the boards brightened equally whether I used the bristle brush or not, and the solution brushed off was quite clean.

Richard
Richard
1 year ago

Thanks, again.

Gary Rolf
Gary Rolf
1 year ago

Will this work on Alaskan Yellow Cedar decking? Covered front porch – so not a lot of direct weather(rain) on it. New Cedar, air dried for 12 years – and resawed this summer to 1″ thick for the decking Leaving the saw mill side up as it’s super consistent textured finish (no blade marks at all) and not smooth. So what kind of pre-treatment should I get. Would 100 series or 1500 be best? Will use clear (I like the yellow color is now).

Gary Rolf
Gary Rolf
1 year ago

It’s not a smooth finish.

Gary Rolf
Gary Rolf
1 year ago

Thanks , it’s rough sawn. Will still clean it then stain it. Thanks

Sherry Julo
Sherry Julo
1 year ago

I’m so tired of having to strip and brighten my 12 X 18 deck.

FIrst time was due to company hired damaging wood with power washer and apply sealant/stain (not sure what brand) on damp wood day after a storm. (Had to strip and brighten the whole deck)

Second time was due to using Olympic Maximum Cedartone that was applied in the Fall and by Spring the next year it was peeling off. (Recently stripped and brightened horizontal surfaces)

I don’t have the energy to strip and brighten the whole deck again. The vertical area so far aren’t peeling so I’m leaving that. When it does I’m thinking about having a different kind of railings installed that aren’t wood.

I really don’t care if the horizontal parts I have prepped match the Olympic Maximum Cedartone railings or not. I just want a good product for my horizontal surfaces that doesn’t have to be stripped and brightened. Would like something that penetrates the wood and can reapply every couple years if possible. I live in Kansas City, MO so I have access to most of the brands available.

Sherry Julo
Sherry Julo
1 year ago

Thank you!

Steve
Steve
1 year ago

Have you tried Vermont Natural Coatings poly whey exterior stains? I’m a TWP fan and Wolman F&P fan and I have a customer who is desiring this “cheesy” product and I’m leery of venturing into unchartered territory???

Scot
Scot
1 year ago

Will this work for an exotic hardwood? I’d like to use it just because of its availability in my area.

chris
chris
1 year ago

Hi, I need to stain the floor a new (covered) screened porch. Material is PT lumber. Do i need to wait longer than the recommended 4-12 months to stain since the deck is covered? Would TWP be the best option or should I go with Defy or another brand? Thanks.

Phil
Phil
1 year ago

Weathered PT deck that I stained 3 years ago is faded pretty bad. What do you advise to prep and clean for TWP 1500?

Vickie
Vickie
1 year ago

Boy I am in a bind. After doing tons of research I settled on TWP as per your review. But it is nowhere to be found in Illinois. And I needed it yesterday. Any suggestions where I might be able to find this? Or has it been discontinued?

Kathy
Kathy
1 year ago

Just sanded and brighten our 4years old cedar deck in Seattle, facing north, half in shade, half in the sun. Thinking between Twp 100 or 1500 for staining. I’ve read that sanding is closing the pores in the wood. Should we wait some time before staining?

Kathy
Kathy
1 year ago

Our cedar is quite smooth, not so rough. Is Twp 100 still the best product for us?

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Kathy
Kathy
1 year ago

How many sq feet do you think I’ll get out of 1 gallon?

Kathy
Kathy
1 year ago
Reply to  Kathy

Also, is there need to stain bottom side of the deck , and if so, can I use some different/ cheaper product in there or just sealer? And does bottom side need to be prep and brighten as well before staining/sealing?

Kathy
Kathy
1 year ago

Our cedar seems quite smooth, not that rough ( see pic). Is Twp100 still the best choice of product for us, or some other stain would perform/ last longer on it?

Kathy
Kathy
1 year ago

Here are pics.

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Kathy
Kathy
1 year ago
Reply to  Kathy

Our cedar is quite smooth, not that rough ( see pics) Is TWP100 still the best choice of product for us?

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David E Bedar
David E Bedar
1 year ago

I live outside of San Francisco Ca. ( Novato) I have a redwood neck that needs staining. Does the deck need to be power washed first or can you use soap, water and bleach and then stain the deck? The deck was last done perhaps three or four years ago.
One attached photo is in the sun, the other is in the shade.
Thank you.

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diggis
diggis
1 year ago

quick question – any reviews about the TWP WS series?

Gayle Overturf
Gayle Overturf
1 year ago

Do you ship to Ak?

Matt
Matt
1 year ago

I had a few spots to repair on my deck using Famowood latex filler and I’m in the process of sanding my my entire deck. Will TWP 1500 (Black Walnut) look OK on the spots that were filled? Thanks!

Tom
Tom
1 year ago

My deck has an existing coat of TWP 1500 on it, but after several years it is looking worn and in need of refreshing. Can I just apply another coat of TWP 1500 after power-washing? Also…is it supposed to dry with a flat finish? I have noticed a somewhat shiny finish in some areas. Thanks for your advice!

Therese
Therese
1 year ago

where can I buy this product?

Chris Holbrook
Chris Holbrook
1 year ago

I have a white cedar deck, new in June 2013, when it was stained with one coat of TWP 200.

It was then power washed and restained, one coat, in June 2015, and one coat again in June 2016, and one coat again June 2017, a total of four coats.

It has not been touched since June 2017, so has endured the winters of 2017/18, 2018/19, and 2019/20, and the summers of 2017, 2018, 2019.

The TWP 200 was what the deck painter recommended, and of course I went along with that.

Durability and wear has proven to be a problem, and in looking into it, I now find that TWP 200 is not designed for decks.

Worse, I’m told that it will be extremely difficult to apply a different product, TWP 100 or 1500, due to the deep penetration of the 200. It may even be difficult to apply more TWP 200. It is not even certain that the TWP 200 could be successfully stripped.

No treatment of any sort has been applied since June 2017.

Maybe this three year gap may have affected the amount of protection, and the amount of penetration, of the TWP 200 product. Maybe the wood is no longer as strong or resistant to receiving a coating of TWP 100 or 1500, but I don’t know.

The thought is to sand the deck, wash it, leave it a couple of days, then apply the TWP 1500, but nobody seems to be sure that will actually work.

What is your expert opinion?

Many thanks,

Chris

Chris Holbrook
Chris Holbrook
1 year ago

OK, so should I first sand the deck, or just apply the stripper directly on to the stain that’s there?

Chris

Chris Holbrook
Chris Holbrook
1 year ago

Are you referring to the TWP Restore a Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit plus their Safe Strip Remover and Cleanser Kit, or are you referring to the RAD Restore a Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit?

Chris

Chris Holbrook
Chris Holbrook
1 year ago

When washing off the stripper, how do I avoid the stripper splashing on the wood railings and the side of the house?

joey
joey
1 year ago
Reply to  Chris Holbrook

what’s the best stain sealer for Cumaru?

larry viguerie
larry viguerie
1 year ago

I bought a remote tavern 4 years ago. The decks and ramps and stairs are in various stages of neglect.I have no knowledge of what has been done in the past but it looks like mostly nothing. I did find 5 different kinds of sealers in storage shed.
Question 1) I did find 2, 1 gal cans of TWP 1501 unopened. are they still good?
2) I pressure washed everything 2 weeks ago, now just waiting for enough dry days .I don”t care about color matching, just want to preserve the wood. Is pressure washing good enough prep? I did power wash most of the mold and mildew off.
3) I could buy more TWP 1501 to finish the job or switch to a different TWP product. Also I can use different products in different areas. Thanking you min advance for your insights

Shawn Kraynak
Shawn Kraynak
1 year ago

I have a pine pool deck that has seasoned for 2 years and has never had any stain or sealer put on it what do you recommend the deck is in direct sun light and has heavy use during the summer months I like the TWP 1501 cedartone would you guys recommend this for a pool deck ? The deck size is 1800 square feet. The deck is in the middle of the yard and never has and debris on it such as leaves. Thanks for your help

sunshineman6869
sunshineman6869
1 year ago

Where can I get samples of the different color stains that are available in TWP 1500 Series

Jospeh
Jospeh
1 year ago

Hi,

I have a few questions on the staining process on my PT Pine deck. I installed in in early 2019 October and have been letting it weather. I have tried a number of samples from different stain manufacturers and the TWP stain samples should be coming in this week. I wanted to know if i should pressure wash and sand for the stain process or just pressure wash. I also am reading alot about applying wet on wet on PT Pine wood. Can you explain what it means to apply wet on wet and with what tools?

Thank you!

Joseph
Joseph
1 year ago

How do you recommend applying the TWP 1500 wet on wet? I plan on using a spray pump for the ballusters as well.

Matt
Matt
2 years ago

I used the TWP 1520 Pecan on our cedar shake siding (2 coats wet-on-wet after stripping and brightening) and am very happy with the results in Houston, TX!

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Adrianne
Adrianne
2 years ago

Hi – if you could answer a few questions, please.

1. What’s the difference between TWP-100 and 1500? Can’t seem to find that info. We live in NY State – Buffalo NY – and want to seal (not necessarily stain) our 14 month old PT pine wood deck. It has been power washed and is ready for treatment. Read somewhere that NY doesn’t allow the use of the 100, have to use the 1500, but also read reviews that 1500 isn’t as good as the 100 in all respects. Do you have a recommendation as to which product to use? Doesn’t have to be the TWP – could be any other one you recommend, like Defy Extreme (one we also looked at) or another product.

2. Another Q: Are stains also sealers? We’d like to just seal the wood without staining, but if we have to use a stain, the least pigmented one is what we prefer. Understanding that the more opaque the better the prevention and the longer time between maintenance, we like the color of the wood as-is and would prefer not to add color if avoidable.

Also, we have 5 almost 10×10 posts and pergola tops that would need to be sealed at the least. Since they won’t be walked on, what could we use for those that would last the longest, seeing as we have snow, and now with climate change rain and humidity are becoming a challenge?

3. Lastly, I’ve read that water based stains/sealers have to be sanded off, whereas oil based stains/sealers can just be power washed when the time comes to redo. It seems like that should be just the opposite. The Q is: Is that true? Since redoing would have to be done every 2-3 years, we’d obviously like the easiest way to do that, by just power washing and not having to sand. The deck is 13×32 and would be a job to sand.

Thank you for your help. Really need to get this done before the temperature drops further and it can’t be done this year, and trying to figure out which to use by reading reviews is frustrating. Seems they ALL have good and bad reviews, which makes it even worse to choose.

Attached is a picture of the deck. The yellow marks at the top indicate the pergola tops which haven’t been installed yet, and the red marks you can ignore. Hope it’s large enough for you to see.

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Adrianne
Adrianne
2 years ago

My understanding of “new wood” from reading stuff is wood that’s not been weathered. This deck’s been weathered for 14 months, so I wouldn’t think it would be considered “new wood”.

Saundra
Saundra
2 years ago

Should I use TWP WS20 on a glider I sanded down to the bare wood or the TWP 1500

Tom Morrison
Tom Morrison
2 years ago

I installed all new decking on a second story deck about a month ago. I used cedar boards. I love the new look of the deck and would like to keep it this way. I’ve read some of your reviews saying I need to wait 4 months or more before applying a sealer. If I do that it will have to wait until spring and we have harsh winter here in Wisconsin and I’m concerned I will loose the fresh new look of the deck by then. Is there a product I can apply now instead of waiting? Thanks.

bruce kishler
bruce kishler
2 years ago

Existing weathered grey redwood deck
How best match new decking-only 5% of deck

Lori
Lori
2 years ago

We live outside Nashville, TN and our deck gets full-sun in the afternoon and we have trees that help shade parts of it. We have used 2 different products on our deck and haven’t been happy with either. In 2008 we used Sherwin Williams Clear Deckscapes Advanced Waterbourne Formula. In or around 2011 or 2012 we used Olympic Maximum Clear Waterproofing Sealant. We are very late in re-sealing the deck, but I just pressure washed with 2200 to 2500 PSI with a 15 degree nozzle. from reading the posts, that is really high, but that was what it took to get off the black surface. In some areas it damaged the wood on the surface or made it fuzzy looking. I am posting pictures of what it looks like after pressure washing and have several questions on what to do and use to get it looking great again. 1. (Image 1) I have a few boards that are warping and pulling up the screws. Can I turn these over and reuse, try to re-secure with a new screw, or replace them? 2. (Image 2) The wood we used is YellaWood and some boards have a much more prominent grain. With age this seems to be more pronounced almost looking wet all the time. Is there anything I can do to make it blend better? 3. (Image 3) In the center of the large area of deck we had a teak table and chairs. It looks like the wood has a black cast to it. Is there anything I can do to remove the darkness and make it blend better? 4. (Image 4) Some of the top rails look fuzzy. Should I sand them and what grit should be used? 5. (Image 5) This shows what the wood looked like before pressure washing and the clean deck in background. It is the pergola over garage that has not been prepped yet. Is pressure washing the best way to do that? 6. (Image 6) This is the deck after pressure washing. The pergola is really high and we had to use a our 26′ ladder to clean the outside stuff that I couldn’t get to from on the deck. It’s not perfect, but after 3 long days I was ready to be finished with the pressure washer. The size of the deck is 26′ x 15′ and 10′ x 9′. the stairs and bottom landing are 6′ x 14′. The pergola is 18′ x 20′ x 10′ high. There is yellawood lattice between all the posts around the deck, the tallest portion is 8′ wide x 5′ high. There is approximately 86 lineal feet of hand rails. 7. After researching all the different products out there and only a few overlapping on best rated lists, my biggest questions are: a. Since it has been so long since we last sealed, can I use a water based formula to seal? Everything seems to point to those being the best formulation out there. If… Read more »

Lori
Lori
2 years ago

It wont let me add images. When I click on camera it does nothing. I will repost shorter questions.

Lori
Lori
2 years ago
Reply to  Lori

1. I have a few boards that are warping and pulling up the screws. Can I turn these over and reuse, try to re-secure with a new screw, or replace them?

Lori
Lori
2 years ago
Reply to  Lori

2. The wood we used is YellaWood and some boards have a much more prominent grain. With age this seems to be more pronounced almost looking wet all the time. Is there anything I can do to make it blend better?

Lori
Lori
2 years ago
Reply to  Lori

3. In the center of the large area of deck we had a teak table and chairs. It looks like the wood has a black cast to it. Is there anything I can do to remove the darkness and make it blend better?

Lori
Lori
2 years ago

Here us image.

20190904_183607_resized.jpg
Lori
Lori
2 years ago
Reply to  Lori

4. Some of the top rails look fuzzy due to water pressure. Should I sand them and what grit should be used?

Lori
Lori
2 years ago
Reply to  Lori

Since it has been so long since we last sealed (2011 or 2012 with an oil based clear sealant), can I use a water based formula to seal? Everything seems to point to those being the best formulation out there. If not, what is better TWP 100 or 1500.

Lori
Lori
2 years ago
Reply to  Lori

6. The square footage of deck is approximately 600. The pergola is 18′ x 20′ x 10′ high. There is lattice between all the posts around the deck, approximately 440 sq. ft. And about 86 lineal feet of hand rails. How much product should I use?

Lori
Lori
2 years ago

I will estimate 1600 sq ft due to spray loss with lattice. See image below and I will use the defy product.

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Lori
Lori
2 years ago

Thanks for all your help.

Lori
Lori
2 years ago
Reply to  Lori

I haven’t seen any reviews of the Outlast Q8 Log Oil. I liked it because there is an additive you can add to protect against carpenter bees which we have a HUGE problem with. Do you know anything about it?

Ray
Ray
2 years ago

I received a can labeled 1501 Cedartone, but it looks like 1503 Dark Oak on my PT fence. Did I receive a mislabeled can or is this due to high absorption rate and age of my fence? The stain itself in the can looks dark.

Ray
Ray
2 years ago
Reply to  Ray

Pictures attached

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Claud
Claud
2 years ago

We are stripping a front door that has faded etc due to western exposure. We are in CT. Would the TWP 200 or 1500 be best for color saturation and durability against the sun. The door is made of fir. Thanks for any direction.

Bbaker9981
Bbaker9981(@bbaker9981)
2 years ago

We are from central Indiana, we had a new rough cut ceder fence installed a year ago and now we are looking to stain it. Wanting to use a semi transparent stain, have been looking at the Cabots Australian Timber Oil stains in a honey teak but after reading on here may go in a different direction any suggestions? Also do I need to prep the fence at all? If so what should I use? I would say it has a semi weathered look to it right now. Any advice? Thanks for the help!

Ron Becht
Ron Becht
2 years ago

I have a new con heart redwood pergola installed about 1 month ago. I want to maintain the natural look of the redwood. Which stain would you recommend. I live in Northern California and the pergola is exposed to the sun most of the day.

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Ron Becht
Ron Becht
2 years ago

Thanks for your response. Which TWP 1500 stain choice/color would you recommend to preserve the natural color of my Redwood Con Heart Pergola? Thank you.

Michael M.
Michael M.
2 years ago

Hello, I live on Long Island NY and had cedar fence installed late September 2018. I am getting ready to have it stained and am thinking about using TWP 1501 Cedartone. The results of your Cedar deck look amazing and I am hoping to have the same with my fence. Two questions:

1. Did you use the TWP Gemini Cleaner/Brightener or any other prep?
2. Did you use 1 or 2 coats.

Thanks in advance!

Kevin G
Kevin G
2 years ago

Ok so after doing more research I’ve landed on AC Transparent Redwood Tone. Based on the pics I added, do you think the deck floor would benefit from ditching the Valspar cleaner in lieu of the RAD system before staining?

Kevin G
Kevin G
2 years ago

1. Hi, I recently purchased a home with a deck made from redwood (1997). To prepare the neglected deck, I power washed, used a valspar cleaner/brightener and am almost done sanding the entire thing. After reading everything I’ve read I am guessing I shouldve sanded first and then used the Gemini restoration kit and followed by TWP1500? I was initially going to go with Valspar but after finding this site I will go with TWP.

2. I absolutely love the color now that the wood is sanded (pics attached). What color from TWP would preserve this or should I be looking at a boiled linseed oil / tung oil to stay natural?

3. Is it true redwood 2x4s cannot be found anymore? I have boards that need to be replaced and a local lumber shop told me this.

Thank you!

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Tom
Tom
2 years ago

I would like to keep the original natural wood color for our newly replaced horizontal deck surfaces which are pressure treated pine. When it rained on the new wood, the grains and natural color were highlighted and absolutely beautiful!
I see colors of 1500 Clear, 1515 Honeytone and 1530 Natural. Would they be able to recreate this color effect and not darken with re-coating annually? If so, which would you recommend? If not, which would likely produce the closest effect without darkening over the years?

Tom
Tom
2 years ago

1.) Would you recommend Armstrong Clark Transparent Natural (or other AC color) or TWP 1500 stain?

2.) TWP talks about 2 initial coats – wet on wet. Pardon my ignorance but do they mean doing a few boards at a time then immediately re-applying to the same few boards before moving on OR applying stain to the entire deck surface then re-applying the second coat.

3.) Is it necessary to initially apply 2 coats for new pressure treated pine wood?

Tom
Tom
2 years ago

Thank you very much for your help!

Tino
Tino(@tino)
2 years ago

Hello, I’m about to install a 1000 square-foot IPE deck, and the wood will be delivered in a couple days. I was advised to directly put IPE oil on the railings before install, when I receive the product in order so that it does not crack. According to the sales man, if I don’t put that right away I will risk cracking and checking on the rails. I’ve also read your form that says that I should wait 2 to 3 months before doing anything to the wood. My goal is to avoid any cracking on the railing. This one is really expensive as I’m sure you know, Do you think that it would help to avoid potential cracks and checking on the railing, to put IPE oil now on the rails, and then in 2 to 3 months remove it, And then put Armstrong mahogany? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I really want to do it right. Thank you for your time. Thank you for your awesome forum.

Tino
Tino(@tino)
2 years ago