This post was updated on May 7, 2023
TWP 1500 Series Review
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TWP 1500 Stain Review
Important Note: This is an updated 2023 TWP 1500 Series Review.
TWP® (Total Wood Preservative) 1500 Series Deck Stain was brought onto the market in 2010 as the permanent substitute for TWP 500 Series. TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain is a semi-transparent, oil-based, EPA registered wood preservative.
TWP 1500 Stain is specially formulated to use on all exterior wood surfaces. Its outstanding UV resistant blend prevents wood graying and discoloration. It is commonly used on decks, fences, log cabins, wood siding, and cedar shakes. It is offered in 10 shades that enhance the natural beauty of the wood.
TWP 1500 Deck Stain Rating
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
– The appearance of TWP 1500 Wood Stain on our test deck was a warm rich finish. The wood grain was enhanced and highlighted effortlessly. The 1501 Cedartone color was a little browner (not as orange) than a conventional cedar stain color.
TWP 1501 Cedartone
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9
– At the 2-year mark, TWP was holding up well against UV graying. This was one of the top deck stains tested as far as reflecting UV radiation that typically creates wood fading and discoloring issues. TWP 1500 retained about 90% of its initial color at 1 year and 70% at 2 years.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
– TWP 1500 displayed zero signs of peeling and only a slight amount of wear. TWP is not film-forming. The stain dives deep into the wood fibers, which reduces any chance of wearing or peeling on the wood surface.
Cost Per Square Foot: 8.5
– TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain cost us $39 per gallon. We applied 2 coats “wet on wet” to our 400 square foot test deck. Coverage for the TWP 1500 was 125 square feet per gallon for 2 coats applied wet on wet. The cost broke down per square foot was .35 cents.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9
– In our testing of oil-based deck stains, TWP 1500 offered one of the best resistances to mold spores and fungal growth, which some oil-based stains are known to attract. This was most likely due to the EPA registered mildewcides in the TWP formula. Also contributing to the lack of spores is the use of synthetic and natural oils and a limited amount of linseed oil, which has been known to promote mildew growth.
Ease of Application: 8
– TWP 1500 Wood and Deck Stain applied fairly well for an oil-based formula. It was necessary to back brush or wipe excess stain to get a nice even finish. TWP 1500 Series Stain dried within 6 hours and we were able to place items back on the deck.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
–At the 2-year inspection, no noticeable darkening was apparent like we have seen with other oil stains. The 1501 Cedartone color essentially lightened up a bit giving a more natural appearance.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
– We are confident that the TWP 1500 Wood Stain would be easy to recoat. A quality deck cleaner could be used to remove common dirt and grime prior to re-staining with TWP 1500 again.
Overall Score TWP 1500 Series at 2 Year Period: 8.5
– The TWP products like 1500 and 100 Series Stains are known to produce a durable long-lasting finish. They have always been a favorite of ours and are consistently one of our top choice stains. We personally use the TWP stains on 300+ deck restorations annually. Ease of application, a beautiful finish, and easy recoating makes TWP 1500 an outstanding professional-grade stain for all exterior wood projects.
Product Information:
TWP Help? Search Google: TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 1500 Series
Cost: $46 per Gallon, $235 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based
Available Colors: 1500 Clear, 1501 Cedartone, 1502 Redwood, 1503 Dark Oak, 1504 Black Walnut, 1511 California Redwood, 1515 Honeytone, 1516 Rustic, 1520 Pecan, 1530 Natural
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Cedar
Deck Square Footage: 400
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: 1501 Cedartone
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take inconsideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Photos
TWP 1500 Series Stain Review Video
Deck Stain Help & Questions
As an article and comment contributor to the site, Scott has been around the pressure washing industry since attending college. In 1993 he started his first company called Oakland Pressure Wash specializing in exterior pressure washing and deck staining. That company evolved into OPW L.L.C. shortly thereafter concentrating more on exterior wood and deck restoration. Scott and his Deck Cleaning Michigan company have restored over 10,000 decks in the Metro Detroit area since the early years. He has become an authority in the deck restoration industry and has contributed to numerous wood restoration forums and informative sites.
All the products he suggests through this site are sold through online sites and in retail stores, allowing the consumer to choose their own means of purchase. Scott’s eCommerce sites do sell many top brands he endorses and if you appreciate any of the help he has offered then feel free to purchase from one of them.
Applying TWP in 1503 Dark Oak to Wood Fence.
https://youtu.be/xH6RnzN4M-c
I have a PT wood deck that was built in the 90s. It was in good shape when I bought the home in 2017, and in 2019 hired someone to restain the deck. He sanded it and used a semi-transparent TWP product (mix of cedar tone and rustic). I live in MD (close to DC) and understand that it is no longer available here so assuming it was the 100 series???
In spring of 2022, I had my roof and siding cleaned and the chemicals the company used stripped the stain (ugh). The color is faded and there is no sealant/protectant. Water just pools. Now the wood is really dry, nails are popping up, it has mildew (lots of green) in areas, etc. Basically, it’s badly weathered. The person who stained the deck in 2019 is no longer in business. I have gotten quotes from 2 contractors and they want to sand it and put on Sherwin Wiliams SuperDeck. Based on poor reviews, I prefer not to use it. So, I’m trying to figure out what to do in hopes I can find someone to use what’s best to bring the deck back to life and protect it as well as prep properly. Here are my questions:
Thanks and greatly appreciate all the info you and your site provides!
1. Use the TWP again. The 1500 Series is excellent and allowed in MD. You can mix the same colors of you like.
2. We would need to see some pics to help with prep. Post them in the comments.
3. Nothing is decent in the local big box stores. You can order the TWP online at http://www.twpstain.com
Thank you! Attached are some pics. About the color and prep, I prefer not to go with the same color because it was too reddish. Is it possible to change to pecan or the black walnut for a more brownish tone? What do you suggest colorwise and also prep if possible to change the color?
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener kits for prep while pressure washing. You can use any color you like after the prep. Colors will vary based on wood age and type so best to test some samples. Dark Oak and Black Walnut are more brown.
Hi Scott. Working with TWP 1500 in Black Walnut. Prepped by total sanding followed by RAD cleaner and brightener.
Problem is I missed the party about wet on wet. Only have 1 coat on yet and let it dry. How best to proceed at this point?
Thanks for the wealth of knowledge here!
Bill in Michigan
Leave alone for now. Light clean in Spring and a light coat then.
Sorry this will come as a repeat post. My Google Chrome browser lacked the paper clip upload icon, but I see Safari has it, so I re-signed-on that way:
California
Lots of sun, though partial oak shade.
Redwood, circa 1990’s, good condition
No apparent mold or mildew
September 2020, after stripping and neutralizing old red stain we did not like (alkyd and various oil), With your advice I chose TWP 1500 clear transparent and liked the natural tone. It turned dull and gray after a year or two.
I anticipate either Restore A Deck two step rather than stripping plus neutralizing this year. Then more TWP 1500 (I have 1-2 gallons left in the 5 gal can). I would also consider a cedar tint since that should give me some sun protection.
I intend to leave rails as-is this time and only do the 950 sq. ft. floor. Never impressed that my now-leaking pressure washer did any more than hose nozzle unless I got so close as to damage wood, so I am inclined to use scrubbing brush and hose nozzle for prep. Water is scarce here, but I don’t see any way to conserve water on this job.
Does this make sense?
Use the RAD Stripper and Brighener for prep. Much easier and faster to use a pressure washing while doing this.
I am interested in 1500 dark oak. My deck is 25 years old. Originally had Sikkens Dek, then switched to Sikkens SRD because I did not want a film. No longer available here. Switched to two step deck scapes after sanding. First coat was oil second was water. Used the water stain over the past 7 years every couple. Just stripped and spot sanded with 40 grit parts that the stripper didn’t remove. Never want to sand again. So I’m thinking one coat of 1500 would be fine for a year or two before recoating. Don’t want product to build up and peel in the future. Or would I be better off with Restore a Deck water based since I have been using a water base. Would the Restore seep in more and have less of a chance to build up in the future or should I use the 1500 .
Neither the 1500 or the Restore A Deck semi-transparent stain will peel. They both fully soak into the wood grain.
Is it safe to put TWP 1500 on top of a deck stained with Flood Oil/Acrylic semi transparent stain.
No. You always have to remove the prior stain when switching brands of semi-transparent and transparent colors.
I have used TWP 1500 on my TP deck that is covered via an awning. The high temperature post applying has been in the mid 70’s with low humidity. I used Restore a Deck cleaner and brighter let dry to approximately 8% moisture content. The process I used to apply the stain was apply to the first board and then back brushed the two previously stained boards. I applied the stain at a rate of approximately 3/4 of the documented coverage rate. It has been 48 hours and the deck still shows shiny spots.
The Questions:
1 will the fact the deck is covered cause an extended dry time?
2 what should be done to eliminate the shine and get the stain to dry?
thank you for your help.
1. Yes.
2. Wipe it down with rags and mineral spirits to remove the excess stain. Soak all oily rags in water when done and lay flat to dry outside.
Hello, I stained new pine planks with twp1500 about 6 months ago. Can I apply a second coat is stain now?
It should be okay but make sure you clean to remove any dirt, etc.
I used the TWP 1500 stain about a month or so ago. I love the color and stain when the deck is wet, however when it dries, my dogs muddy paw prints show up. When I scrub with water and soap it looks great wet but still dries showing prints. If I scrub with oxiclean it dries almost clean then. However it soon gets dirty again. Is this something I will always battle or is there anything I can do to prevent my deck from looking like it’s constantly covered in mud?
No. The only thing you can do is keep the mud/dogs off the deck.
Hi- I cleaned and brightened 3 days ago with RAD on my new redwood deck that has weathered for 18 months. I used a pressure washer to rinse.
I’m attaching pictures of TWP 1500 stain that I just began. I want to make sure it looks like I’ve removed the RAD adequately. Pictures show it still a bit wet.
I do see some furring after cleaning.
No pics.
My husband thinks it looks a bit splotchy
You might want to buff the wood to remove the furring: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Can I buff areas that I have already stained or just leave as is?
Also, I am having to prep the stairs and floor boards separately from the railing. How long after TWP application on the railing can I use the RAD cleaner and brightener on the other areas? Obviously, there will be some RAD that gets on the already stained areas.
Thanks for your help.
You cannot buff where stained. You can prep now the rest of the wood.
Thank you for your help!
Who sells CWF deck stain? 1515 honeycon e
For TWP 1500 Series, see this link: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
Hi, What is the best choice for a year old Cedar deck, recently sanded due to the previous product peeling. I live in Wisconsin and the deck faces South/Southwest. 100 Series or 1500 Series?
Use the TWP 1500 Series.
Can you recommend a hand-pump sprayer that can successfully handle the viscosity of TWP 1500 semi-transparent stains without clogging? Only “transparent” stains are mentioned as being suitable in the pumps I can find. Thanks
TWP 1500 is fairly thin in viscosity so must quality pump sprayers will work. Make sure it is a fan tip and buy one that is in the range of $40-$60. Not a cheap $20 one. We like Chapin brands.
What is best stain sealer for redwood in Danville California
The TWP 1500 Series would work very well for you in CA.
Hi 2 years ago i stained my redwood deck with TWP 1500 ( I think I used honey tone) . Anyway if I restain it the same color with the same TWP 1500 , I don’t have to strip it? Some areas of the deck have great coverage still , but some of the high traffic areas have faded entirely , and are greying. If I clean and reapply, won’t it be blotchy some dark areas where the stain was still present? I am just a bit confused on how to go about it. Also another question, what if I chose a different color but stayed with 1500. Thanks for always being prompt. Looking forward to your answers.
Best to strip and brighten all to achieve a uniform color when reapplying. Any color will work after you do this.
Hi, I just recently built a horizontal Wester red cedar fence. I am looking for a protectant stain that i can just reapply and not have to strip every time. Even if it needs to be done every year. Is TWP have a clear to keep the original cedar color and protect it from greying ? Open to all suggestion. I just have a lot of wood at my property, and my deck alone keeps me busy having to strip it every two years or so to restain. I used TWP 1500 and i like it , but when there is a color to the stain it requires stripping to avoid dark spots
A clear sealer will not provide UV protection from graying. Has to be a tinted color. TWP is a penetrating stain that can be cleaned and reapplied as needed. Does not need to be stripped. On a fence, you should get 3-5 years.
You should read this about new wood as it cannot be stained yet:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Thank you for the fast response. I read the article on waiting to stain. That’s good to know , I will wait a few months before staining my smooth western red cedar fence. I will also use tinted color. As for my Deck in the back that I stained with TWP 1500 honey teak, if I want to restain with the same color, what’s the process? No stripping necessary? That’s the biggest hassle to me. The deck currently looks good in some places and faded away stain entirely in others , due to high traffic areas. Thank you !
See previous response.
I pressure washed my deck and treated with RAD Cleaner and Brightener and I am ready to stain it with TWP 1500. However, I live in the North East and I am facing a couple of issues: 1) almost every morning the deck is covered with dew, and sometime frozen dew, 2) the temperature goes below 40F at night. Is it too wet at this point to use TWP even if I start staining the deck around noon when it is more dry? Does the minimum temperature of 50F refer to when the stain is applied for the entire drying period of 2-12 hours? Thanks.
It cannot be wet or damp at all when applying TWP. It can drop below 50 the first night but it cannot drop below freezing temps.
If you are using a stain like the TWP 1500 series which calls for two coats to be applied “wet on wet” and you run out of stain where you are not able to apply the second coat on everything, should you wait for the first coat to dry thoroughly on everything before applying the second coat or should you just leave it and apply only one coat? Thanks as always for the help and advice.
Just one coat would be best.
Hi. I just stripped, brightened, and stained my deck and stairs. I went with a TWP 1530 Natural stain. The stain looks wonderful on most of the wood but slightly orange in places where the wood underneath was yellowish in color. I plan on doing another maintenance coat at the same time next year. If I stay with the same brand and series can I go to a slightly darker color without having to strip the original stain back off? I was hoping to just get TWP’s Gemini kit to clean and brighten and then just to apply one coat of a darker TWP 1500 stain. Thanks for your help and for all the wonderful information on this website. It’s by far the best resource on all of this that I’ve come across.
Sometimes that works, sometimes not. Best to strip and brighen for prep to be sure. Not any harder to that abut removes the current stain.
Thanks for the super fast response. Can I expect the wood to darken slightly over time from UV in which case the orange color in places may no longer be an issue as the yellowish wood underneath darkens? Maybe it will all look great and more uniform after it has time to weather a bit. This is my first time using just a stain like this so I don’t have any experience to go on.
TWP does not typically darken in color over time but fades in color.
What color in the 1500 series (semi-transparent)would you use on a 20 year old teak deck?Also as it’s a hardwood would you advise one coat or the wet on wet finish?
One coat. Many use the Rustic color.
Hello,
I’ve stripped all the railings and spindles of my deck to bare wood with RAD (that was a lot of work), hand sanded where needed with 60/80 grit paper and then used the brightener. There was also some rotten wood but that was replaced last summer 2020, I’ve just cleaned that too with RAD cleaner and brightened after.
I’m staining everything in TWP 1500 series in dark oak. I’ve followed all directions using a good brush but it looks so ugly, it looks like there is dirt on the spindles trapped under the stain. There seems to be beads/bubbles of dirt on the spindles under the stain, there was nothing like that on the bare wood. It looks worse than before, and before they had an ugly Superdeck stain. What could be wrong ? Please see pictures of the spindles/railing before staining and after. I’m now reading that I should have used a wood conditioner first. Should I do that, and if yes which conditioner do you recommend ?
I’ve also used this same TWP stain in dark oak on an outdoor wood table and that came out nice. Please help! I’ve stopped staining for now as I don’t want to have to strip everything again. Thank you.
It is your wood grain that is causing this. Not much you can do about it.
Thank you for your reply. So you don’t recommend the wood conditioner prior to restaining ? Or mineral spirits ? I’ve worked so much stripping/prepping this and it’s so disappointing to see this ugly result now. Thank you again. Please let me know if there is anything I can do.
A wood conditioner and mineral spirits would not do anything. You could try to brighten again and see if that helps as the darkness is internal and a brightener might lighten it more.
On another note, if this is mostly just the verticals/spindles, maybe go with a two-toned deck: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
I refinished a pressure treated deck last year, pressure washed, sanded and 2 coated with TWP 100 series. Is there any reason I can’t apply TWP 1500 Cedartone over the 100 for a maintenance coat? I get it, the standard answer is going to be strip and brighten but I’m wondering why the 1500 couldn’t soak in as a maintenance coat?
We would not do it. Just strip if you want to switch, it is easy to do. BTW, the 1501 Cedartone is much darker than the 101 Cedartone.
I am redoing my deck of about 500 square feet. The wood is clear redwood that is about 20 years old. I have been using a solid stain on it and I think it would be very difficult to sand smooth. I also do not like that the wood was butted close when installed creating puddles on the deck. I plan on removing all of the wood a few feet at a time and putting it through a thickness planer and reinstalling it with 1/4 ” gaps using screws, possibly stainless as the nails back out constantly. I also live near San Francisco, about 1 mile from the ocean. Not a lot of hot and never freezing or snow.
My question is about aging. As the wood is 20 years old, when I plane it, will I have to let it age or can I install the finish right away. I would love to finish each section before reinstalling it as will be just a bit easier.
Also, should I use TWP 100 or TWP 1500? I do get sun more days than not.
Best to let it all weather for a 1-2 months and then prep and stain.
Hello, I live in southern Wisconsin and have a 630’ x 6’ elevated walkway from my backyard crossing over wetlands onto the beach. The walkway is 3 years old, pressure treated yellow pine and has not been oiled/stained yet. The topside is slightly grey and weathered. I’m looking for the easiest possible way to finish the walkway with the least amount of preparations. My pressure washer and hose will not extend 600 feet plus I’m concerned about using deck cleaning chemicals over the wetlands area. Question 1) Will a stiff brushing do well enough on the walkway prior to oiling/staining? I can care less about the color of the walkway when finished as I am more interested in max protection from UV, rain, snow and harsh weather. Question 2) I’m thinking oil would be best due to least amount of prep work in between reapplying oil every couple years. Thinking TWP 100 or TWP 1500?? or again, a product that doesn’t require sanding, stripping, ect. in between reapplication every couple years. Thought, thanks.
You can use the TWP Gemini Restore Kit prep with pressure washing where you can reach and bucket and scrub brush where you cannot. You will need the prep products to do it correctly, and they are environmentally safe. Use the TWP 100 Series for WI.
We used the the 1599 series in cedertone on our redwood fence and the results don’t look great (it really emphasizes the knots in the wood and made them look very dark). Do you think it is an application or prep issue? The fence was pressure washed a few days before applying. Thank you!
That is normal and is not related to the stain or prep but your wood grain and how the knots are taking the wood. It actually looks very good in our opinion.
Thank you. Do you know if and how quickly it will mellow? I really loved the look of the wood after pressure cleaning and brightening, but we wanted to use a tinted application to get the UV protection.
Couple of years. It is not possible to keep the original color as it must be tinted for UV protection, and that means the color will be enhanced.
Hi, on the 100 series you suggested waiting at least 4 months for the wood to age, but you didn’t say the same on the 1500 series review. Is the 1500 series better formulated to go on brand new wood or do I still need to let it age? Also, do I need to sand the whole surface after letting it age or just power wash? I’ve never heard of doing this before. Thanks for the reviews and taking the time to answer!!
You have to wait 4-12 months will all TWP stains, not just the 100 Series. This is normal for stains. See here for prep and stain advice for new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I am about to have a very large, expensive pavilion built on my lakeside property. After reading the reviews of the TWP 100 Pro Series stain, I am convinced that it is a quality stain, and I understand it is used on log cabins. Therefore, I assume it is good for use on a pavilion, but I am scared to death. How in the world do you apply the product hanging from a ladder, and get a good job on intricate high ceilings, and large interior and exterior areas?
See here about new wood first: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
As for prep and applying, best to get some scaffolding or a scissor lift. Any good contractor should be able to do this.
Not enough stain? Water doesn’t bead.
I fully stripped, cleaned, and brightened my redwood deck, then stained the floor with clear transparent TWP 1500, following wet-on-wet instructions as closely as possible with a thick roller. I didn’t want unnatural color this time.
It looked even, except for one board on which I decided to add a second coat hours later after it dried, because it looked dull and maybe under-stained. That one remained darker than the rest, though no tackiness, and nothing wipeable with paint thinner on a rag. But maybe it was always a darker board.
But my question is: when we got our first light winter rain here in northern California a week later, I saw none of the beading of water I have always seen after a new coat of oil-based stain (except on the board I had stained twice and a few others). Does that mean I did not put on enough stain? Too late now, I assume. Maybe this brand/formulation with its wet-on-wet instructions is too complicated for me to use in the future. Waiting for rain drying to do the rails with next five (or fewer) gallons.
Note photos of stained floor and brightened but not-stained-yet rails. Cloudy day with deck still damp from rain. Really not as ugly as photos suggest; in fact I am satisfied. On sunny days, I would call the average color brown with this clear oil preservative, in contrast to the reddish hue with my previous tinted stain; just not as shiny as I anticipated. I would call the cleaned and brightened unstained rails yellowish-tan? Incidentally, that darkest board in the upper part of the first photo, and left of center in the third photo, is the one I mentioned staining twice (again, not a problem).
Also FYI the square part of the deck (first three photos) had light sanding (circular 60 grit), but the long part (4th photo) had none. They look the same to me, though while sanding I noticed I did remove considerable black color.
I can send more pics when the whole job is done. I’m looking forward to it.
Actually the pictures did not load in the order I submitted them. Re my comments, they are above #4,#3 , #2,#1. So here it is: unsanded, dark one left of center, area that needed significant sanding, and lastly the dark one near top of picture. Sorry.
-TWP is not intended to bead water but shed water. This is normal as hight quality stains need to breathe.
-The darker spots in the wood are from not prepping correctly. The wood should have been stripped better.
-TWP Clear has not color and also not UV protection from graying. It needs to be tinted for UV protection. This means your wood will gray naturally in months.
-TWP is not designed to have a shine of any level. It is a penetrating coating that soaks into the wood. Having a shiny coating will result in blistering and peeling.
Shelf life unopened?I have stripped and brightened/neutralized big 30 year old redwood deck and ready to stain with transparent TWP 1500. Would like to order more from one of TWP’s recommended online vendors to be sure I don’t run out in middle of job, especially considering the wet on wet method described–and the usual fall/winter rain here in northern CA. Willing to store extra leftowver for re-application in 3 years, but will it still be good then? The first batch I just received has June 19, 2020 stamped on label on bottom of can, assume the manufacture date.
See here for tips on the TWP Help Site: https://www.twpstainhelp.com/shelf-life-of-twp/
Thank you!
…and, after stripping and brightening/neutralizing, I decided to do some additional perfectionist light sanding with 60 grit. Does that mean I have to brighten again? It doesn’t look like the color has changed from sanding other than some remaining black reduced, and a few streaks of newish red color of redwood showing up. But I read several places on your website that brightening is necessary after sanding. Even if already done before sanding? Guessing the brightener absorbed deeper than the minimal layer sanded off. Incidentally, since my deck was already clean from stripping, when I applied the brightener, the boards brightened equally whether I used the bristle brush or not, and the solution brushed off was quite clean.
The brighten is basically used after sanding to open up the wood pores and then you would pressure rinse that off and that would help to also remove any sand dust.
Thanks, again.
Will this work on Alaskan Yellow Cedar decking? Covered front porch – so not a lot of direct weather(rain) on it. New Cedar, air dried for 12 years – and resawed this summer to 1″ thick for the decking Leaving the saw mill side up as it’s super consistent textured finish (no blade marks at all) and not smooth. So what kind of pre-treatment should I get. Would 100 series or 1500 be best? Will use clear (I like the yellow color is now).
Either series would be fine to use and would work well. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
It’s not a smooth finish.
Unless rough sawn, you will still need to weather and prep.
Thanks , it’s rough sawn. Will still clean it then stain it. Thanks
I’m so tired of having to strip and brighten my 12 X 18 deck.
FIrst time was due to company hired damaging wood with power washer and apply sealant/stain (not sure what brand) on damp wood day after a storm. (Had to strip and brighten the whole deck)
Second time was due to using Olympic Maximum Cedartone that was applied in the Fall and by Spring the next year it was peeling off. (Recently stripped and brightened horizontal surfaces)
I don’t have the energy to strip and brighten the whole deck again. The vertical area so far aren’t peeling so I’m leaving that. When it does I’m thinking about having a different kind of railings installed that aren’t wood.
I really don’t care if the horizontal parts I have prepped match the Olympic Maximum Cedartone railings or not. I just want a good product for my horizontal surfaces that doesn’t have to be stripped and brightened. Would like something that penetrates the wood and can reapply every couple years if possible. I live in Kansas City, MO so I have access to most of the brands available.
TWP 100 or 1500 Series will work.
Thank you!
Have you tried Vermont Natural Coatings poly whey exterior stains? I’m a TWP fan and Wolman F&P fan and I have a customer who is desiring this “cheesy” product and I’m leery of venturing into unchartered territory???
We have not but any coting that creates a shine on a horizontal deck will lead to peeling and blistering in our experience.
Will this work for an exotic hardwood? I’d like to use it just because of its availability in my area.
Yes, just one coat.
Hi, I need to stain the floor a new (covered) screened porch. Material is PT lumber. Do i need to wait longer than the recommended 4-12 months to stain since the deck is covered? Would TWP be the best option or should I go with Defy or another brand? Thanks.
The TWP would work well and 4-12 months and then prep is good.
Weathered PT deck that I stained 3 years ago is faded pretty bad. What do you advise to prep and clean for TWP 1500?
Use their Gemini Restore Kit: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/gemini-restore-a-deck-kit-review/
Boy I am in a bind. After doing tons of research I settled on TWP as per your review. But it is nowhere to be found in Illinois. And I needed it yesterday. Any suggestions where I might be able to find this? Or has it been discontinued?
No, it is not discontinued but you will never find quality stains like TWP in a big box store like Lowes or HD. Best to check with the manufacturer directly for help.
Just sanded and brighten our 4years old cedar deck in Seattle, facing north, half in shade, half in the sun. Thinking between Twp 100 or 1500 for staining. I’ve read that sanding is closing the pores in the wood. Should we wait some time before staining?
Clean and brighten the wood for final prep and then 1 coat of the TWP 100 Series.
Our cedar is quite smooth, not so rough. Is Twp 100 still the best product for us?
Yes.
How many sq feet do you think I’ll get out of 1 gallon?
About 150-250.
Also, is there need to stain bottom side of the deck , and if so, can I use some different/ cheaper product in there or just sealer? And does bottom side need to be prep and brighten as well before staining/sealing?
Not needed.
Our cedar seems quite smooth, not that rough ( see pic). Is Twp100 still the best choice of product for us, or some other stain would perform/ last longer on it?
Here are pics.
Our cedar is quite smooth, not that rough ( see pics) Is TWP100 still the best choice of product for us?
I live outside of San Francisco Ca. ( Novato) I have a redwood neck that needs staining. Does the deck need to be power washed first or can you use soap, water and bleach and then stain the deck? The deck was last done perhaps three or four years ago.
One attached photo is in the sun, the other is in the shade.
Thank you.