Hi! I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stain stripping. My wood deck cleaning/stripping help tips are based on my history as a wood restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
- Always prep the deck surface properly before staining; dirt, mildew, mold, or graying will cause the stain to fail.
- Use a Deck Cleaner for older, grayed wood with dirt and mildew, and a Deck Stripper for removing stubborn old stain.
- Deck Strippers soften and remove old stain while also eliminating mildew and graying, making a separate cleaner unnecessary.
- Always follow stripping or cleaning with a wood brightener to neutralize pH and open wood pores for better stain absorption.
Deck Stripper vs a Deck Cleaner
I appreciate your input at Deckstainhelp.com as we continue to be your go-to source for the latest deck restoration news and trending topics through 2026. See below for an article about When to use a Deck Stripper vs a Deck Cleaner.
Feel free to leave me a comment or ask questions below.
Strip or Clean the Deck
Why use a Deck Stripper vs a Deck Cleaner
One of the biggest rookie mistakes I often see is someone applying a stain to a deck that has not been properly prepped. When you’ve stained a deck a few times before, you learn that dirt, mildew, mold, or graying should not be present when you apply the stain, or it will end in disaster.
Only a clean, well-prepared surface can correctly absorb the stain and allow it to perform just as you want and need it to. Cleaning the wood thoroughly before undertaking staining has the added bonus of making it look even more beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.
I recommend two different products for the job: a “Deck Stripper” and a “Deck Cleaner.” They are both designed to properly prep the wood and clean it thoroughly before staining begins.
Deck Stripper or Deck Cleaner?
There is a simple method to determine whether you should use a Deck Stripper or Cleaner, as it all revolves around the wood’s surface. Older, grubby, and grayed wood just needs a quality wood cleaner. A Deck Wood Cleaner is powerful enough to get rid of most dirt and mildew stains; however, a stripper might be needed for more heavy-duty preparation.
Often, when staining your deck, you will need to remove the remaining old stain, which can be stubborn. In this case, the Deck Stripper should be used instead of the Deck Cleaner. The useful advantage of strippers is that they will soften and ‘melt’ most stains, making them easy to wash or wipe away. On top of that, Deck Strippers cleans off mildew and graying, too. There’s no reason to use a cleaner after!
Brighten the Wood After Stripping or Cleaning
Another common mistake I often see is not using a wood brightener to neutralize the wood after using the deck cleaner or deck stripper. Brighteners are an integral part of the restaining process. They lower the pH of the boards and allow the pores to ‘breathe,’ making them more accepting and open to absorbing your new stain.
If you’re having trouble figuring out whether your deck has been stained in the past, please post a picture below.
Best Deck Cleaner or Stripper Articles
- What are the Best Deck Cleaners
- The Best Deck Stain Strippers
- Why Brighten After Deck Stripping
- How To Remove a Solid Color Deck Stain
My How To Strip A Deck Stain Video
Hi! I had a deck rebuilt 5 years ago with fir. I live in VT where the deck is covered with snow most of the winter. The deck is on the south side of the house and in direct sun all summer.
I believe the new deck was initially improperly stained with oil based translucent stain over the raw (dry) wood with no preparation. Within months, the deck was covered with black splotches. Since then, it’s been cleaned and re-stained, again with translucent stain, and always looks terrible. See the photos.
You will need to strip it all off down to the bare wood and restain. Use this kit for prep:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
What is the best brand in Ontario Canada for stripping and brightening
We don’t live there, so we have no idea what is sold there. If you want to buy online, look at these options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-stain-strippers/
We built our redwood deck 5 years ago and used Penofins Transparent Stain in Redwood color. Each year we clean it with their step 2 and then put another coat of stain. In the shady areas (1st pic) the look is exactly what we first had and would like to continue to have, however, every year the sunny areas get blacker and blacker. This year all H… has broke loose. In areas where plant were watered or umbrellas stands were, the stain is gumming up and coming off kind of when useing the Step 2 cleaner. I called Penofin directly and she said to keep using it and leave it on longer so the cleaner will do the work. Well the cleaner isn’t cutting it. Leaves hairy chunks is some spots and does nothing in others.
Thinking I need to strip it all and start over. What do you recommend and what have done wrong? Help and Thank you. PS we live in high desert 4 season area of far northern CA.
Penofin has known issues with darkening or turning black over time. You will need to strip and brighten to remove and start over.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-stain-strippers/
Good Morning Scott –
I ordered and completed the stripper and brightener as indicated. I had to use a pressure washer as a hose was not getting anything off. Some places worked better than others. I have one more section to strip, and want to know if I should pressure wash less or more or not at all? I’m tempted to just burn it all up and go with Timber Tech but we are stuck with the 5 year old redwood (looks yellow now though).
I also purchased TWP stain. Do I now need to finish sand, brighten again, and then stain to get rid of the furries? Or go straight to stain.
I don’t want to put anymore work into this than necessary.
Thank you for your assistance.
It looks correct, and you removed all the prior stain. Not sure if you did the brightener correctly? The Stripper darkens the wood, and the brightener restores it. The darkening you have is internal and should be restored with the brightener.
You did over strip in some spots and created the furring. It would not hurt to sand or buff the flooring.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Hi Scott.
I have a ~25 year old redwood deck located in Ruidoso New Mexico. It is in the Rocky mountains at about 7500′ elevation so intense summertime sun and sometimes significant snow in the winter. About 5 years ago I hired someone to restain it and they put solid stain down (while I was not present to protest!) on top of what had been semi-transparent. The solid stain was peeling up pretty badly so about two years ago we sanded it down to bare wood and applied Cabot’s Wood Toned Deck and Siding Stain (#3002 Cedar) – a translucent oil stain. This looked great initially but now appears to be totally gone — the wood looks bare to my eye, water doesn’t bead at all, etc. So I am about to redo it. The wood itself is in great shape (for 25 y.o.). I am planning to use a TWP 100 semi-transparent product — maybe the 102 Redwood since I think it would show some wood grain (which I like / want) and also have decent UV protection. I would be interested in your thoughts about that … but my primary question is about the prep. Do you think I should strip + brighten since I am changing products … or given the situation and wood I am describing would clean + brighten be ok? Thanks in advance for your advice.
Strip and brighten for sure.
Thanks for your reply Scott. Followup question: This time of year an average day is sunny with high temps around 60 and low temps in the 30s, with daytime relative humidity around 20%. If i strip and brighten one day then let wood sit for 48 hours before staining … if temp is forecast to drop to 25-30 range overnight is that a deal-breaker for staining that day? Or with several hours of sun and low humidity immediately after staining is that overnight low temp ok? I would really like to get the stain down before winter sets in … but of course i dont want to compromise the end results! Thanks again
It should not drop below freezing the first night after staining.
Hi there, I stained by deck about 4 years ago and it’s much overdue for a restain. However, half of the deck is covered and half exposed to the harsh elements (intense sun and snow/ice) so the wear and tear between these areas is significant. How would you recommend prepping this deck for an even finish and do you have recommendations for a tough finish?
Strip and brighten for prep. Use the Restore A Deck Stain stripper with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Apply, let dwell for 30-45 minutes and pressure wash off. Brightener when done.
Hi I’ve used your advice with great results in the past! Used TWP oil on deck. We live in Florida with very humid weather and daily rain in summer, we made a new deck in a very shady spot should I use the TWP oil or the water based Restore a deck? Thank you!
Either would work well here. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Hi, Scott. Just got a new pine deck built in April and had it stained a few days ago. We were going for a two toned look. Unfortunately, we don’t like the end result and desperately want to change to a lighter stain on the skirt. What’s your recommendation on how to accomplish that as effectively and as economically as possible. The larger deck on an angle in one photo is the one we were hoping to achieve. The smaller deck where the photo is straight on is the one we ended up with. Halp!
You will have to remove it fully and it is difficult to remove a newly applied stain, especially if it is water based. What stain brand and type did you use?
We used Rymar stain
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper Kits with both additives:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Hi Scott, what a wonderful site! This deck is weathered with an Arborcoat solid stain. See the photos I added. Can I get away with using a cleaner instead of a stripper? I don’t want to have to remove all the stain before re-staining.
Also, what solid stain do you recommend if I want the same color as the Arborcoat?
Thank you.
Strip and pressure wash to remove all the loose stain. You can cover the intact stain after with a new solid stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Look at Cypress or Brown Oak in the Restore A Deck Solid stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-solid-color-stain-review/
Thanks so much, Scott
Hey Scott, thank you for all the great information and help! Our property is lake front, so I was hoping not to use harsh chemicals on this project. I used a random orbital floor sander to try to remove as much as I could, then was intending to use sodium percarbonate to clean and then brighten. I am worried what stain remains on the deck may not come up in the cleaning process and become an issue down the road. Do you recommend that I use a stripper for this, or do you think cleaner would be sufficient? Thank you!
You have two issues. One is some old stain that has not been removed from the knots. That should be fully stripped off first.
The bigger issue is you sanded off the protective coating from your screws in areas, and you now have black rust stains. A brightener will remove the rust stains in most cases, but they will come back once it rains again, so you really should replace all your screws first and then remove the black rust stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/remove-rust-black-stains-from-deck/
Thank you very much for your input!
I have on a tigerwood deck with Ready Seal stain on it. I would like to remove the stain before I put a stain on it. What is the best stain stripper I could use. Let me know your suggestions. Thank you for you help
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and then the Brightener. The best thing about Ready seal is it us very easy to remove. 🙂
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Need to prep pressure-treated wood deck for a new coat of stain.
2 years ago (when the wood was new) we brushed Wolman Raincoat Oil Base Clear Sealer on it. Now we plan to use TWP 102 Series to stain and seal it.
If I understand correctly, I can just go straight to using the RAD Stain Stripper and skip the RAD Cleaner? Do I need to use the RAD Brightener after that or can I just proceed to the TWP Stain?
RAD Stripper and then the RAD Brightener after.
Sanded, stripped, brightened 22×33 Pressure treated deck using rad bought with Twp. staining the rails is taking much longer than expected. Now there is rain for the next 10 days at least every 36 hours and the deck is in full sun (shaded starting at 6:00pm) and heavy dew happens every morning. So can’t for see squeezing in staining.
All that being said, how long will the strip/brightener be effective before I need to repeat to get back to staining. 😣
Thank you!
Stain within two weeks of prep.
Hello, and thanks for all the awesome videos. Will cleaner and brightener stain screening? As part of my deck is screened in. Thanks again.
They shouldn’t but the dirt and grime you remove from the deck can make a mess on screens so make sure to rinse well.
Hi, I want to refurbish our deck. I think my steps would be power wash, strip, brighten, stain. Is that correct based on the pictures? Any recommendations for holes or other breaks in the boards?
You strip while pressure washing. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener kit and both additives for the Stripper to remove this. Cracks are normal for deck boards so not a big deal. The really bad board in the picture should be replaced.
We are replacing treated lumber decking after 25+ years. The framing underneath is sound (also treated lumber). Is there any value in treating the deck frame with a product like Restore-A-Deck prior to replacing the decking?
No need.
Hi, I have a covered porch with the deck that the former owner built and used SW SuperDeck oil-based Transparent Cedar Tone Natural. I am planning to maintain it. If I still use the same product, do I need to use stripper?
I read your review and seems that TWP is better product. If I switch TWP, do I need to use stripper?
Here are my deck pictures. Thank you very much!
They do not make that version of Super Deck anymore and then the new version is not very good. Strip and brighten for prep. Stain with TWP in Honeytone for a similar color.
Thank you! Is TWP Honeytone a Transparent oil-base?
Yes.
Talking about SW version, I noticed that SW now also has a modified-oil based formula, but I was able to get a oil based formula in a store because I am not comfortable with the modified-oil base. Are you saying that even the “oil based formula) still not a good version? For your reference, the former owner left me the can showing SuperDeck oil base as the 2nd picture. I tried to stick with “oil base” 🙂
You need to strip it for prep so switch to a better stain. SW even when oil-based is a mediocre stain.
I replaced 18 mahogany decking boards with new ones and hope they all blend with the older boards. I am planning on using Wolman paint stripper followed immediately with Defy Wood Brightener. Can I use two different manufacturer products? Will I definitely have the “fuzzies” to hand sand? Thanks.
Best to use the stripper and brightener from the same manufacturer. Since they are not always made the same, you might not have the correct balance when neutralizing.
We are going to repaint our deck. As I read in several of the previous posts: as long as the previous paint is not peeling, we can just paint over it. We can spot treat any areas that do have loose paint.
Do we still need to apply deck cleaner and brightener prior to repainting?
Thanks you!
You should pressure wash with a cleaner or stripper to remove any dirt, mildew, and peeling paint. You can then cover the intact paint that is not peeling.
Thanks! So no need for a brightener?
I thought it was needed to rebalance the pH after using cleaner/stripper.
Not needed when you have a painted deck.
Here are some images of our deck
More tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
I have no idea what is on the deck now – oil or water based. I think I need to strip, brighten, sand, then stain – correct? If so, can you recommend a specific stripper, brightener and stain?
Thank you so much for your advice!
Your steps are correct. Use the Restore A Deck Prep products. Their stain works great as well.
Would you recommend a solid or semi transparent stain? Also, should I use an oil or water based stain?
Thank you for your help!
Semi-transparent. Does not matter if oil or water based as long as it is a top stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
My dad has paint on his deck which we applied 7 years ago and wants me to repaint over with same material, but a slightly darker mixed paint. Any advice on what chemicals to use to prep and if I need to sand or take at other steps prior to applying paint? Thank you
Pressure wash first, let dry and spot sand to remove any loose or peeling areas. You can cover the intact/non-peeling paint.
Awesome. So no need for at cleaner stripper or brightener
A stripper will help to remove the peeling stain while pressure washing.
Here are the photos of fence and staircase
Here are photos of deck
Hi,
wondering what processes to use here to restain and what order. 2% Bleach clean brighten with oxalic acid.
I wish I knew what material was on here already as we want to keep same stain. Would it make it easier (time and labor wise) if I am able to find out or not really? Could I skip sanding or stripping if so? If not we’ll just pick a similiar color.
Do not use bleach to clean, it is bad for wood. You need a deck stain stripper and then a wood brightener. No way around it. Stripping is no harder than cleaning so it does not take any longer.
If I want to us the same exact stain should I still strip or just clean and brighten? I cannot tell if my current stain is solid or semi-transparent.
Strip and brighten. It is semi-transparent.
Thank you for your tips.
No need to sand then since it is not solid stain, right? But for any areas I want to smoothen I can sand right? Or should I just light sand everything in between brightening and staining?
You recommend sodium percarbonate or metasilicate to strip? Someone else recommended bleach because of the algae content. Which brightener do you recommend citric or oxalic? Do I run these chemicals via downstream injector after power washer pump just before the gun? Do you recommend tarping flowers and vegetation or the cedarwood siding of the home?
No need to sand and do not spot sand as it will stain unevenly. If you want to sand, do all lightly as you mentioned.
You need a deck stripper, not a cleaner. Look at the Restore A Deck Stripper and then the Brightener. Do not attempt to make your own formulas as it will not work very well. Pump spray on, do not inject. Waters it down and can get messy. Cover plants while working. As for the house, depends on what type of stain you have on the cedar/
Not sure on the cedar. I have to call the guy who did it. All I have is the bill from previous owner from 2016. It was like $16k.
I forgot to attach photos of my deck showcasing th DEFY EXTREME Semi-transparent stain. (Redwood color)
Good morning. I used DEFY waterbased stain on my Colorado sunsoaked deck and absolutely love it. It’s infinitely better than the Superdeck stain I had on previously. The stain has been on only a year and looks great, but the deck is dirty and has some small stains from the winter. Mostly dirt, melted snow and leaf stains. I am not planning on restaining it or adding a maintenance coat this spring, but I would like to clean it. Should I use DEFY Wood Cleaner, brush and hose or should I just use a simple dish soap solution and then rinse with hose? I guess the question is, if I use the DEFY Wood Cleaner to clean and rinse without brightening and staining, will it ruin my deck? 😀
Using the DEfy Cleaner when prepping for another coat is the correct way. You can use it at 1/2 strength so it is less agressive.
Hi! Have a 3 year old st (behr??)failing semi-transparent stain on our 10 year old PT deck.
Hoping I can just strip it and not have to sand?? Thoughts
In the PNW
Not an easy strip. Use the RAD stripper with both additives. Let dwell for 30-60 minutes and pressure wash off. Spot sand if needed to remove any stubborn stain that can’t be stripped. RAD Brightener is last.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Thanks for your reply and help……my neighbur has some left over HD80 stripper. Is it worth a shot to try that first before buying the RAD?…or is just no strong enough?
Thanks again
Does not hurt to give it a try.
We are looking at options to refinish out Deck. The deck was new when we bought the house three years ago and was painted with what looks like normal exterior paint and almost immediately began to chip and peel. The deck also has large tulip poplar’s which constantly rain sap down onto it which almost turns the color black.
A couple questions:
I am currently in the process of pressure washing it to get the heavy dirt off before doing the prep and was was wondering if I also need to strip off the remaining paint before applying surface coatings or should just cleaning it be good enough?
I was considering using a deck over type product to give it a more durable surface that is easier to clean but based on some research that sounds like a waste of money. Is there a deckover product durable paint that is recommended, or is stripping all the way to bare wood and starting over the best bet?
Thanks for any help
You cannot fully strip a paint/solid stain from a deck. You would have to sand this all off if you want to remove it fully and go with a transparent or semi-transparent stain. You can continue what you are doing and then apply a solid stain over the intact stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
We’re trying to figure if we can clean our deck, retouch certain spots with paint, and then put a sealer on top?
Or strip the whole thing?
We have a certain area where a hot tub was removed, that we DO need to strip and redo. But the rest of the deck (we were told) wasn’t in bad shape and didn’t need to strip, just touch up.
So what should we do with the other parts of the large deck? There are a couple spots, such as on steps and by the door where some paint has chipped off.
It costs us $1700 to hire someone to just strip and repaint the whole thing. Should we do this or can we touch up the other areas (minus the hot tub location) ourselves?
You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain or paint. You cannot strip a solid stain fully down to bare wood. You cannot touch up spots as they will not blend.
The easiest thing to do is pressure wash for prep and then reapply another solid stain over the top of your current stain.
We moved in 3 years ago Oct and had been told the deck “had been refinished”, but after winter (Minnesota) there were places starting to peel like paint and even what looks like worn old stain underneath. Like all our projects this was put off too long. We will be sanding because frustration took over with having NO luck using a stripping product and thus chewed up the wood a bit. But if there is any other product we can use to strip this coating that’d be great. Please give any and all advise you feel pertinent 🙂
1) We Assume the deck is 11 years old (same as the house)
2) yes, current coating UNKNOWN
3) some mold/mildew looking spots after pressure washing also some under deck
4) reason for failure…unknown, possible use, neglect or bad refinishing last time?
We are deadlocked to paint the whole thing or 2 tone finish? Your thoughts?
The only way to fully remove a solid stain is to sand.
I have been using Thompson’s Waterseal Advanced in Honey Gold for many years, last year I covered the deck but it did not last. I assume this was because i never “cleaned or stripped” the deck only pressure washed. I am wondering what is best to do before I attempt to cover again use a deck cleaner or a deck stripper?
Post some pictures of the deck.
See attached
You should strip it all down and start over. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Is pressure washer required for the stain stripping process or it’s optional and I can just use a stiff brush and a garden hose?
Pressure wash.
Apologies if this is a duplicate post, but my first is not showing in the thread below like my second one is. My deck issue is sad but true. I started with a new deck, weathered for ~9 months. I was getting ready to stain, and someone told me I needed to clean the mildew specks off with Oxi-Clean, which I did, but did not neutralize it before applying stain 😩. The stain seemed to look fine at first, but has since “bleached” out. The stain is blotchy and varied in color. It doesn’t look horrendous, but definitely not right. It also never completely dried 🤔. My questions are: 1) would neutralizing have any effect over top of the stain? 2) if not, what then would be the correct order of things to do? 3) Is it too late to neutralize the railings which have not been stained? All this was done this past fall.
What process is required to apply a solid stain over a transparent? Is stripping really required since both are oil-based?
Yes, you should strip to give the new stain as much adhesion and penetration as possible.
We have been trying to repaint our deck and having the worst time trying to get the paint up. I just found this site, we have tried a power washer and deck stripper to no avail. We can get some up with a wire brush but we would be scrubbing for a weeks to get all the paint up that way.
I think the previous paint job was a solid stain because the undertone red seems to have penetrated pretty deep and won’t come up without sanding. We don’t know for sure though just bought the house a year ago.
We bought a brown solid stain to go on top. Do we need to make sure all the red undertone is sanded off before we use the new solid stain? Any recommendations on getting the rest of this paint up? Should we use a different deck stripper?
You do not have to remove all of the current stain if you are covering with a new solid stain. Just make sure that all loose or peeling stain is removed by stripping or spot sanding and that the wood is clean.
Hi guys,
Lee here again. Gosh, I can build a decent deck but I can’t seem to finish it correctly and I need your advice again. So this last winter when I bought more TWP 101 Cedar from your associates, I also ordered RAD Cleaner and Brightener. However, based on our conversation below, it became apparent that I needed to strip the old stain as some of it had failed within one year. Not having time for another mail order before last weekend, I went to the big box store and got the Behr Stripper No. 64 and Cleaner/Brightener No. 63. (I know, me bad! I have since read your reviews.)
I used two different set of steps as my test areas. After letting the stripper sit for 45 minutes, I scrubbed, power washed then proceeded with the Behr Cleaner/Brightener solution for 15 minutes then power washed again. Both solutions were well shaken and both sets of steps turned out great.
So I moved on to the deck following the exact same procedures, working about 40-50 SF at a time, on a cloudy day and keeping moist. OMG, the results are awful with black areas everywhere. I noticed some, but not all, of the overlap areas seemed to be brighter so I hit it all with a second coat of Behr Stripper followed by another pressure wash rinse and then another round of Behr Cleaner/ Brightener followed by a yet another pressure wash rinse.
As you can see in the pictures, I still have black area everywhere, and even though they are less noticeable when dry, I know that if TWP 101 stain goes on, they will stand out as if they are wet. (It just rain and I just took the wet pictures – Ugly!)
I do plan on sanding with 80 grit to remove the white fuzzy, and I still have the RAD Cleaner and RAD Brightener but I need some advice as to how the black areas can be neutralized and then what steps to wrap up the prep prior to the stain. (This time I will wait at least 1 week, not 3 days for it to dry before staining.)
Thanks in advance, I’m desperate here.
Lee
You should be fine with the final prep. Lightly sand off the fuzzies and then clean and brighten the wood. When you brighten, mix a little stronger, around 10oz per gallon of water. Let it sit on the wood for 45-60 minutes and then rinse. The brightener is your friend in this case and it needs to lighten the wood internally and even it out.
Whew, thank you! I will give it a go.
Lee
Hi Deck Stain Help,
Two years ago I built a new cedar deck. Per your instructions I waited a 9 months before cleaning, brightening and staining. We used TWP 101 – cedar tone. The main deck area must have been still a little damp as the stain failed badly over the last year with a chipped appearance.
Q1: I’m assuming I need to strip this main deck area? (First three photos)
The porch area (connected) seems to have held up OK. I must not have been damp. It is dirty though, as can be expected after one year.
Q2: If I need to strip the main deck area, should I strip this porch area too or just clean it? (Last photo)
Will brighten and dry all areas before staining again with TDP 101. In hindsight, I wish I used the Restore-A-Deck as the moisture would not have been a problem. Augh!
Thank you!
Lee
Stripping is just as easy as cleaning so in this case, just strip all and then brighten as this will give the most uniform appearance. You can switch brands as well if you want.
Thank you! I already bought more TWP so I guess I will give it another go. Really appreciate the advice.
Hi, Can I get your advice on this cedar deck. I am not sure what has been done or what product types used, but its peeling, since this pic. I powerwasher it and now more stain has peeled almost like paint. Should I strip it or sand it? Your advice is greatly appreciated. Kathy
You have a solid stain. If you want it to look more natural, then you will need to remove fully by sanding. Other option is to remove just the loose stain and then cover with another coat of solid stain.
Could I use a stripper on cedar to remove the stain?
A stripper will not remove a solid stain fully. You will have to sand to get it all off.
Hello I appreciate if you can advise me what’s the best process of re-staining my deck with Armstrong-clark semi transparent redwood stain.After sanding the deck via this pic can I apply stain directly. Just so you know this deck is directly next to an in ground pool that’s why I didn’t use any chemicals the strip it
After sanding, clean and brighten the wood. This will help the AC to soak in deeper and dry better.
This site is great. I prepped my deck last spring the way I always do, pressure washed, dried thoroughly, painted in appropriate temps. I used a new product and it was terrible. Was tacky for weeks, and was peeling after 5 months. My question is, can I power wash this or should I strip first? I know if I power wash there will be paint strips everywhere. My railing is PVC so it is just the deck surface. It is about 8 years old, and I have never tried a brightener.
The Behr is on the wood like a solid stain so it will not strip off fully. Strip what you can, sand the rest off, brighten last. Using a true penetrating stain next: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
thank you!!
I have a new pine pressure treated deck installed and it should be ready for staining etc. at the end of summer. Which should I use?a deck
stripper or a deck cleaner ?
Deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I made a picnic table out of unfinished pine 2 days ago. Stained it last night an am not happy with the color of stain. Used Thompson’s water stain/sealer. Used single coat. Should not have done the whole table but I did. What do I need to use to prep to re-stain/seal? Stripper? Is it necessary to use neutralizer after?
Post a picture for stripping help. You always have to neutralize after using a stripper.
We just had our old deck torn out and completely rebuilt a new one. All new untreated wood. I am assuming we only need to apply the wood cleaner prior to starting the staining process? We just had the deck completed on Thursday and had a heavy rain shower on Saturday, so now the wood shows signs of dirt and is wet. We know we have to wait 2-3 days to let the wood dry out before moving forward with this process. I appreciate your advice, opinions and time.
You cannot stain this yet. See here for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I have a behr semi- transparent tint stain on my deck and I want to apply a new semi-transparent stain it’s been 2 years since I applied a coat what’s the best way to prepare the deck
Send pictures of deck please.
Here is deck picture
Strip and brighten the wood for prep. Use the Restore A Deck stripper with both additives and then brighten the wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Thank you for your help
Can I use a pump sprayer or roller to apply the stripper then the brightened
Use a pump sprayer to apply and then pressure wash off.
Really old deck, I PW’ed washed it, replaced a couple boards, and sanded it down. I cleaned a couple of boards off with Cabot wood cleaner but I cannot tell a difference. Do I really need to clean it, then apply a brightener? Or just skip the cleaning all together? The 4 boards on the far right are the ones that were cleaned.
Thank you for your help.
Yes, you need to clean and brighten all but you should not stain the new boards yet. Let them weather for about 3 months and then prep and stain all wood.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Thank you!
If I don’t use a pressure washer for the stripping process will a brush do just as good at removing old stain or does the pressure washer just save time
Saves a lot of time and does a much better job as well.
Hi please can you advise me what I need to do with this decking?
No pictures were attached..
Why do I have to use a stripper to remove an old coating off my deck? Why can’t I just powerwash and then sand everything afterwards?
Pressure washing without a stripper will damage the wood and sanding is not suggested unless absolutely needed: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-sanding-a-deck-can-be-an-issue/
okay I get the PW comment, but why is sanding only used if absolutely necessary if i’m removing an old coating?
Did you read the article we sent about sanding issues?
I want to restore a deck that previously had a solid stain. The majority of the solid stain has peeled off, but its still mostly covering the railings. Can you advise me on how to proceed? Do I first sand off the remaining stain, then use deck stripper? Or the opposite, I use deck stripper than I sand the deck?
Also will I have to sand the all the floorboards here or will deck stripper be enough?
Strip off what you can using the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Let dry and then sand off the rest. Use the Restore A Deck Brightener after as final step.
Thank you so much for this info, I appreciate it. One last question, is there a certain sandpaper grade you would recommend? I was thinking something coarse like 60? Using an orbital sander
60-80 grit paper. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
We have a large screened in porch and deck that was built with pressure treated pine 2 years ago. After waiting several months it was pressured washed and stained with 1 coat of SW semi-transparent stain in a dark “charwood” color. Though not a great product we will probably stick with it for a second coat bc of the sheer size and investment we have already put in to it. The screened in portion is fine but open deck is absorbing moisture and showing signs of green and black discoloration as it is under trees and shaded a lot. Since it is new and only been stained once we know it is time for another coat. Because the color we chose is dark and because the interior is holding up fine we would like to leave it as is and only redo the stain on the exterior. For color consistency on the outside this means doing the open deck, stairs, and all exterior framing of the screened in porch. I’m getting conflicting info from painting companies regarding cleaning vs. stripping. To keep the color from darkening too much with a second coat on the outside I like the idea of stripping but I’m worried trying to apply the stripping agent on the exterior framework on the screened in porch will inevitably harm the interior framework of the screened in. The company tells me they will cover the interior with plastic but covering the framework around the screens so nothing is sprayed through seems nearly impossible to me. This company tells me the stripper is necessary with semi-transparent bc there is still a “sheen” on some of the framework (but the open decking, stairs, and rails, have definitely lost their “sheen).” Other company’s tell me stripping is not necessary.
Send pictures.
Pictures
You should be okay to clean and brighten for prep unless the finish has worn off unevenly on the floors. If so, stripping would be best.
Will stripping on the outside of the screened in porch risk damaging the stain on the inside of it?
If the stripper gets in there then yes, it will damage the current stain.
That’s what I’m worried about. I should clarify, however, this company plans to use the SW Stain Sealer Remover which also gets terrible reviews so I’m not sure how powerful that is and therefore how risky it would be. The floors and railings all seem to be worn evenly and have lost the “sheen.” The frame of the screened in would be the only areas that may still have some protective coat bc they are vertical and some are shaded, but I guess I’m failing to understand any major risk of just cleaning and putting a second coat on those even if they do still have some of the protective coat (other than darkening the color).
You should be okay to clean and brighten for prep since the old coating has worn evenly.
I do not know whether I should use a stain cleaner or stripper?
You have a solid stain and that cannot be stripped off fully. Easiest would be to clean and then recoat with another solid stain to cover the current coating: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Please help! I bought a heavy duty stripper and still have spots that will not come off (the wood is very uneven so sanding doesn’t do much either).
You have a solid stain or paint. That cannot be stripped fully so your options are sand it all off or go with another solid stain to over what cannot be removed.
I’m not sure what product was used on my deck, it looked great when we bought the house 2 years ago and during the first winter it started pealing and flaking of in the areas that are most exposed to the elements and it’s gotten a lot worse as you can see. The deck is very big and wraps around the house with a railing that is finished using the same product. I was hoping I could sand the areas that it are pealing and then cover with a solid stain or paint without having to remove all of the previous product. On the railing and closer to the house the current product is holding up fine. From what I’ve read on your site I may need to strip the entire deck and railing to do it right. What would recommend?
Pressure wash and strip off what you can. Let dry and then sand off any loose stain. Cover the intact stain with a solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Planning ahead. I didn’t have time to do all the vertical rail boards when I heavy duty cleaned, brightened and solid stained my deck this year. If I clean the rails will the Thompson’s heavy duty cleaner damage the cured solid stain or should I cover the deck in plastic before cleaning and brightening the rails next year?
It may damage it as it contains bleach.
I removed paint from my deck and the wood is in really good condition no gray at all or mildew but it looks really dry. I am ready to stain but not sure if I should clean and brighten first. I just feel like the wood is already so dry don’t want to dry it out more with water and it’s getting late in the season. Should I clean and brighten or is just move into stain? Also the picture is a combination of new and old wood. The new has weathered for about 2-3 months.
Clean and brighten and then stain.
My 25+ year old cedar deck has TWP101 cedartone natural applied to it, which was done in 2017. I will be staining the deck again with the same product. The deck stain now appears to be quite washed out and brittle. What are your recommended steps to prep my deck to be restained? I would be using a power washer after deck cleaning and possibly after wood brightening. My thoughts were.
1. Deck Cleaning
2. Wood Brightening
3. Power Sanding
That will work. Use the Gemini Restore Kit for the prep.
Hi, I applied Thompson’s clear coat on my patio yesterday and it darkened it considerably, which I absolutely hate. (I should have patch tested). What can I use to get it off and restore the wood to its original color? Thanks.
The first pic is what it looks like after the Thompson’s. The 2nd pic black portion is what it was when I moved in and the light area is after cleaning. I wanted the eood to remain that light.
Use the RAD Stripper and Brightener kit to remove: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
We live in Georgia where we receive a lot of rain with increasing mold and mildew growth. I also would like to avoid wood rot — which occurred in our last deck.
We previously applied Sherwin Williams SuperDeck oil-based transparent sealer in which the rain still “beads” on the wood.
–In order to remove the mold, mildew, and the prior sealant, should I use the RAD NaOH stripper for the wood and brick, or use the sodium percarbonate cleaner?
–Can I use oxalic acid brightener with the other RAD products instead of the Na HCO3 peroxyhydrate brightener? I have heard that oxalic acid is an excellent brightener.
–What is the best sealer you recommend for Georgia? We were thinking about RAD Natural water-based stain so far, but would like your thoughts.
Thank you for your expert opinion and a creating an excellent and superb website!
-RAD Stripper is best.
-No, do not use a different brighter. Use the RAD brightener. it is better anyhow then straight oxalic acid and safer.
-The RAD Stains would work very well for this. It will not turn black or dark in color as the Super Deck did.
Deck location: Oregon. Southern facing deck – tall trees start blocking sun around 2pm. Cedar deck, been around a long time.
Progress to date: Pressure washer, Simple Green Deck Cleaner and bristle brush, wood filler (where needed) and 100 sand paper applied. No stain yet.
Stain to be used: PPG “Sikkens” Black Oak (just a dark color)
Issue: struggling with getting ALL the old stain off – especially in boards underneath railings. Really inconsistent stain removal, even though applied evenly throughout process. Wanted to get some input here before putting on stain. Any thoughts of whether it’s ready for stain or needs a stronger method of stain removal?
Photos posted in reply to this.
Thank you!
Photos here
Wood filler does not work on decks and deck stains. It will not blend when stained. Just an FYI that the filler will stand out and look white under the stain.
You should use a stripper and pressure washing on the deck to remove the rest of the old stain. Brightener after.
We have used stripper to remove failed Thomson Waterseal product applied 4 yrs ago. We have sanded entire deck and ready to apply brightener but the corners of the rails on top still have a little stain left on them. Can we stop stressing and go ahead and apply brightener then new stain by Restore A Deck or do we have to remove every single little bit of stain left?
You should remove all of the old stain. Try sanding it off.
Last year I sanded And cleaned my deck and applied an oil based stain. Just finished gently pressure washing off the dirt and mildew. Most of it came off but a lot of the graying remains. I tired of going through process all most every year. With the oil based stain the deck remained slippery in wet weather. I’m getting to old for this.and need some advise on prepping and staining so as not to make this an annual event. 2 to 3 years would wonderful. Restore A Deck and TWP looks like the way to go, But need your expertise on how go about the whole process,
We would need to see pictures for the best tips on removing.
How do I attach a picture to this email?
You upload it in the comments.
How do I do that. If you haven’t guessed my computer skills are -0.
Click the photo camera icon and upload.
Here you go. Thanks for the IT lesson
Use the RAD Deck Cleaner/Brightener for prep. Stain with the RAD stain or TWP 100 series.
I previous used a oil based stain and it remained slippery when wet. Since we live in Oregon not a good deal. Would a water based stain be better and hold up for at least a couple of years?
No, not really. It is more of an issue with the brand. If you remove all of the current stain and use a penetrating stain, then it will not be slippery. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Used Sun Frog last year and not happy.
Would like to use the RAD kit.
Hi, if I stain with TWP clear 100, and I decide to go with a color semitransparent in the future, do I need to strip the clear before the next application? Would use TWO series, maybe cedartone.
Yes, strip it off.
Thanks. We just applied TWP 100. Looks great and was easy. Forecast was clear and sunny, but of course this resulted in a thunderstorm with heavy rain about 5 hours after application. Got one coat on, as this deck is only about a year old. The only evidence of potential issue I see is that, when I wipe away the standing water from the board, there is a slight “footprint “ in a few areas of heavier pooling where this water was standing as if some of it worked its way into the board. But this goes away after drying. Should this concern me?
Overall happy with how it looks.
Nothing to worry about.
how to clean a deck that is is good condition, and painted with “rescue-it max.” olympic makes a special cleaner for it, but it’s not available in my area.
If just removing dirt, try warm water and dish soap.
what about algae? it’s very damp here.
Sorry but no idea. We do not use this product.
Clean or strip?
New house, old deck. We renovated shape and added new railing. From the little bit of color left, I imagine it’s been stained before. I prefer the beautiful natural look of Cedar but don’t want to reseal every year so will probably use semi-transparent stain. Any thoughts on best prep approach and then stain to tie it all together? Thank you!
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Strip and brighten the wood for prep. Then stain with Armstrong Clark or TWP Stains.
I have a previously stained deck. Should I use a stripper to prep it before sanding and restaining or should i just use a cleaner. Thanks!
Use a stripper while pressure washing and then reapply a new solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Would you recommend using a deck stripper for a deck that’s been painted?
You cannot strip off a paint with a deck stain stripper. It will have to be sanded to be removed.
Hi, what about this deck? Stripper or cleaner? I went to the shop and they gave me both, but I am wondering if just one of them would be enough. Thank you!
Strip and brighten.
Our screen room floor was made with brown pressure treated lumber about 10 years ago. The high traffic areas are faded. It has not been previously stained. What would be the best way to prepare the surface for stain so that we get even color?
You have a stain of some sort on there so strip and brighten the wood for the prep.
Pretty sure there is no stain, just the pressure treating. Will strip and brighten work for that?
There is a stain of some sort in the pics. Strip and brighten.
We used the Behr Stain and Finish Stripper and are actually pretty happy with the results. Do we have to use the Behr 3-in-1 cleaner also to neutralize the stripper? Or can we go straight to staining it now? Thank you!
A cleaner does not neutralize, you need a wood brightener and yes, you need it.
Could you please help us determine if we should Strip or Sand our deck
New Wood or Older Wood? – Older wood- about 15 years old
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? – yes, deck sealant paint
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? – maintenance coat
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.- Benjamin Moore
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? – water based red color paint
Mold or Mildew Issues? – none
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? – paint chipping off, cracks in the wood
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current
Strip first off what you can and then sand.
2 years ago we had a new deck professionally installed. We waited 1 full year before we had it “professionally” stained to make sure the wood was totally dry. Unfortunately we hired the wrong company to stain our deck. The company totally botched the job. They applied a semi transparent Behr stain with a sprayer on the same day that they power washed it. The stain has obviously failed and our new deck is a mess. We have now waited another full year and now want to correct the problem. We are now being advised that we will need to use a solid stain over top of the initial semi transparent stain because bare spots on the deck where the original stain did not adhere would show through. We are not wanting to use a paint or solid stain as we want the wood grain to show. What alternatives do we have? Stripping has not been advised – why? Sanding? See pictures.
Strip off what you can and then sand the rest off. Brighten all wood when done. Stain with one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
My decks are treated wood and had a cheap solid stain put on many years ago. I am not sure what product to use to try to get more life out of them but am hoping you can give me suggestions. What’s my cheapest/best option. I don’t care what they look like just that they don’t deteriorate
Strip off the loose stain and then coat with one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
This small deck can’t be more than 5 years old. I have no idea if it was ever stained but I’d like to protect it. I can see that there is mildew/mold. If I don’t know if it was stained previously, is it best to strip it?
Here’s another
No need for a stripper. Clean and brighten the wood for prep and then stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I stained my new deck with Armstrong-Clark semi-transparent deck stain last year. Per your advice for new decks, I applied one coat and am ready to re-stain my deck this year. Should I be prepping my deck with deck cleaner or deck stripper, followed by deck brightener and pressure washing? I plan to re-stain with the same Armstrong-Clark stains I used last year.
Deck cleaner and then deck brightener while pressure washing.
Hello,
I bought this house a year ago and the deck was in dire need of repair. I’ve replaced several of the rotted boards, but was wondering what you’d suggest with regards to the pre stain prep. The stain on their has peeled off most of the boards but has some stubborn spots.
Thanks for all the help.
Strip and brighten with the Restore A Deck Stripper: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Two years ago I used the RAD cleaner, whitener, and semi transparent stain on a deck. Some of the stain has worn off but not all. I’m going to stain again but do I use cleaner, stripper, whitener, or neither before applying stain and should I put on one or two coats? Thanks for your help.
Use the cleaner first and then apply one coat if you still have a base coat.
thanks. Should I also use a power pressure washer?
It would help.
Hello! I moved into my house 3 years ago and have no idea what was used on the deck or railing. We have powerwashed the deck and the below pictures are what it looks like afterwards. I know I’ll probably have to strip, brighten, and stain, but don’t know which products I should be using.
We will be replacing the deck railing so do we need to wait to stain that? If so, will we have to use any other products before staining?
Thank you in advance!
This is not an easy strip. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Once done, sand off the stubborn stain that cannot be stripped. Brighten all wood after. See this for new wood for the rails: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
My deck is about 15-20 years old. Should we use a deck stripper or cleaner? Or would you recommend replacement?
Strip and brighten for prep. Try the Restore-A-Deck Prep Kits. Stain after: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Thank you!
I have 1 year old treated deck boards in a sunny location. the sun has weathered the boards quickly, and are
greying and cracking.
I want to do a solid stain at some point, but, in the interim, could a clear sealer (Thompson’s)
be applied now to protect the wood, then strip, brighten and stain later? or is it better to just get to the staining and prep, would the sealer cause problems or more prep work.?
No, do not seal the wood. It will create issues.
Awesome, thanks. this site is very helpful
I stripped a solid stain off my cedar deck and then sanded the entire deck. There are still grey spots near the knots. Cant tell if its stubborn stain and i need to strip again or if its something else and a cleaner and brightener will finish the job?
Additional photo.
It looks like old gray solid stain around the knots. Strip and or sand to remove.
Would you recommend stripping or cleaning this deck prior to staining? Thanks!
Clean and brighten the wood.
Thanks!
will the cleaner brightener damage aluminum balusters like the ones pictured?
They should not.
We just moved into a new house and the pergola stain is staring to wear in some areas. Can we use the Behr all in one wood cleaner and then restrain with a similar semitransparent stain? Would it be better to track down the prior existing stain and go over it again? Or do we need to strip the whole thing first? Some areas are worn more than others
Strip and brighten all and then you can recoat with a better stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Thank you so much for your quick reply!
Hello,
Our deck was last stained with a semi-transparent stain 3 years ago and was starting to look worn. (Pittsburgh Ultra Advanced Stain & Sealant in One). Today we cleaned with a power washer (just water, no chemicals) and removed a little of the stain. Do we need to use a stripper, or can we just re-stain with the same formula over the top after sanding? Secondly, no one talks about the railings, spindles/balusters. Ours are in pretty good shape–can we just clean with water and re-stain?
Thanks for your advice.
If using the same stain then yes you can stain over this.
We replaced most of the board on our deck but did not replace the balusters. We also replaced the top rails. I’m not sure where to start! I’m not sure if it’s stain or paint on the balusters.
Try a two-toned deck.
By leaving the bannisters and staining the rest? Any suggestions on a color scheme? House is tan.
No. Solid stain the railings, natural stain for the floor. Article explains. Any color you like will work.
I have a redwood fence that was installed in 2016. It was stained with the cabot clear wood protector at the time of installation. I thought I needed to sand the whole thing down before moving forward with the rest of the prep work, but I am realizing it will take me a month to sand the whole thing when I think all I need to do is a stripper or cleaner and a brightner with a light sanding where needed only. The picture below (without the bbq) shows one side where I have sanded and the other is what it looks like now. The picture with the bbq shows what it currently looks like. I live by the beach so it gets a good amount of sun and salt exposure. What do you recommend? Cleaner and then brightner, stripper and then brightner, or something else? Thanks in advance for your help.
Stripper then pressure wash off. Brightener after.
Thank you. If i use the stripper on wood that is connected to a metal gate will it strip the paint off the metal as well? I don’t want to remove the paint so want to know if I should cover the metal first. Appreciate the help and quick replies!
It does not strip paint.
I have been using TWP 100 Cedartone on this deck for 20 years. I used the Behr All in One Wood Cleaner and pressure washed. When I ran out I used 1/3 Fabuloso cleaner/1/3 water/1/3 bleach. There is still a darker spot where the rug was that did not come out. Is there anything else I can do to make the deck more uniform? Did I need to do a stripper to get a more uniform look with re-staining?
A stripper will probably not xis this. I do not think you can fix outside of power sanding.
Would a stripper make the deck look more uniform as there are light and dark areas on the wood?
Maye a little. You would also have to brighten the wood.
Do you think my deck is prepared adequately for restaining with the TWP or does it still need to be stripped to get all the old stain off? I am driving myself crazy worrying about what to do for the best results. Would you switch to to solid water based Restore a Deck to get a more uniform look or do you think my wood is still in good shape?
Thanks for your response and help in advance!
I attached a couple pictures of our deck… we stained the deck about 3.5 years ago with a Cabot Oil Based Stain. What product would you recommend to strip/clean the deck (with a power washer)? Should I follow that up with a brightener? I will then will have to sand to remove some of the splinters/etc which are there now. What type of product would you recommend to deal the deck (semi-transparent, semi solid, oil based vs. water based, etc)? Also, is it ok if it rained between power-washing and refinishing (then dried fully 24+ hours before staining)?
Thank you
Kevin
I forgot to mention, we live in Iowa.
Yes, strip and brighten for prep: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-stain-strippers/
If you sand, do not power sand. Use one of these stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
48 hours after any rain or prep.
I have a cedar deck (10 x 18 feet) new in fall 2014. TWP cedar tone finish applied the following summer. It now seems to be wearing off in spots, primarily on the flat surfaces exposed to sun, but also mildly on the vertical posts. I would like to retreat the deck this summer with TWP Cedar tone again and would like to know the process. Stripper and power wash, then brightener? If so, what brand to use. How long to wait before applying the TWP product after cleaning? Is there one TWP product that is better than another?
The deck in on the north side of a cabin in central MN. There is a large pine tree which overhangs part of the deck and drops sap on the deck in the summer.
Thanks for your advice. Mark
Stripp and brighten for prep. Wait 48 hours after prep. Stain with the TWP 100 Series for MN.
Our cedar deck is 4 years old. The railings have turned black (see pic) and we haven’t been able to get rid of it. We have tried sanding with no luck. The last stain used in this pic was Flood CWF Oil – oil wood finish in cedar color. Should we strip and do a brightener? What kind of stain should be used?
Try a stripper and brightener.
A few years ago we stained our deck with an Olympic brand semi-transparent stain. The stain never really took. We are looking to restrain it this spring, but are not sure what steps we need to take. Stripper, brightener, then stain? We also have a big stain from a citronella candle that oozed off the table when we forgot to bring it in on a very hot day. Can this be removed with a project or are we stuck with a solid stain?
Product not project.
You cannot remove the citronella stain. Prep with a Stain stripper and then a Brightener. See how it cleans up before deciding on a solid or semi-trans.
My cedar deck was built 3 years ago and finished with linseed oil. It looked beautiful for a short time, but then turned dark. I pressure washed it last year and never got back to a re-finish until now and am wondering if clean & refresh would work best (rather than a stripper) since I pressure washed it, perhaps too aggressively.
Your site is very informative and wish I would have seen it before I started.
Thanks,
You might want to strip it so it all comes out. Brightener after.
Great, thanks for your speedy advice.
The deck of the house I recently purchased has many cracks in the wood. I received a quote from a professional who informed me that he would be able to fill in some of the cracks, however, he suggested that the best choice would be to use a power washer and then apply a solid stain. I was disappointed to learn this because I had done the research (including reading your recommendations) and had decided to go with the restore-a-deck semi-transparent wood stain (I also had intended on purchasing their stripper and brightener to use prior). I don’t know how old the deck is but I did observe the pronounced splits in the wood so I am worried about making the wrong choice. I did research on solid stains and everyone has indicated that it hides the grain completely and looks like paint which is def not the look I was going for. I have enclosed pictures of the deck for your reference and I would love some advice from you guys! Thanks so much for taking the time to assist me – I am so grateful!!
Courtney
For prep, you would want their Cleaner and Brightener, not the Stripper. See this about wood filler. We do not suggest using it: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-filler-for-decks/
Having splits and cracks on a deck is normal. Just lightly sand and splinters after the prep and you are good to use a semi-transparent stain.
I am looking to restain a deck with a brown semi transparent. It appears there is an old, lighter semi transparent stain that is worn. Can I use a cleaner with scrubbing and light power washing for prep or will a stripper be required? Thanks
That is an opaque filming stain on there now, not a semi-transparent penetrating stain. You cannot strip this off fully and you cannot cover it with a semi-transparent stain unless fully removed. You can strip off some and then you will need to power sand to get it all off. The other option is to cover it with a solid stain.
Can you advise what the proper prep work would be if I applied a solid stain instead of a semi-transparent? Thanks for the help!
Strip and pressure wash off the loose stain. You can then cover the intact stain that is not peeling with a new solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
This deck has a thin layer of brown paint on it. I’ve lived her five years and it lookes pretty similar then to now. I’m not sure if I Should strip the whole deck, or just scrape off any pieces that might be flaking and then re paint, or just solid stain it? It did get power washed last summer.
You cannot strip a solid stain fully. Remove what you can and then cover with a new coating that is opaque.
2 years ago my deck was stained using TWP. Had lots of issues with clouding of the stain.The cause was never determined. The plan was to try to re-do it last year. However we had a hail storm & lots of damage. Never got around to the deck…Do we have to use TWP again after cleaning the deck or can we use another product?
If you want to switch brand then you will need to strip and brighten for prep.
Could use a suggestion of what to use? Stripper then brightner?
What stain brand and type of stain is this?
It was something that was used previously- Thompson Waterseal was the stain .
Use the RAD Stripper Kits with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Western red cedar 1×2 horizontal fence installed in 2017. Just got around to having it stained by a contractor. He power washed, let dry for 1 day and then applied Cabot’s wood toned deck stain in Natural. The finished product was splotchy, black in areas, orange in others. I used Penofin Wood Stripper to remove stain and did it in sections over 5 days. I’m happy to see it come off, but boy did it take a lot of elbow grease! I have not followed stripping immediately with brightener. Part of fence is still drying. Could you please tell me what my next steps should be and why it turned out so poorly when done by the contractor?
I am so sorry I asked this a while back and someone closed my computer and I can’t remember which tab i asked the question on, anyway its a new deck built in Jan and we are now in April and its a bit grubby and greying already, can i use deck stripper as don’t have cleaner (and don’t want to venture out with our shelter in place) or is it too harsh? its wet out so that should help and we have a circular head on our jet wash which might be better for the wood.
No on a stripper. Use a cleaner.
Question. My deck had a horrible old blue paint on the surface. We pressure washed and sanded. It still has some blue remnants on it. We are hoping to use an exterior solid stain over top. Do I need to strip or clean the deck with either of these products, or will a solid wood stain do the trick?
Using a solid stain now should cover it: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Your site is always helpful. Still confused re: stripping vs cleaning. Have PT deck 4 y old with Australia timber oil. Color looks good , no mold, gets a lot of sun but not beading water anymore and duller. Can I just clean,brighten with deck cleaning kit then re apply ATO? Or do I need to strip, brighten re apply? Will be applying ATO to new adjacent deck. If I switch oil brands I do need to strip, correct? Have you any concerns re: ATO changing their formula? Thank you for your advice.
Same brand (formula too) and color = cleaner and brightener. Switching brands or colors and you should strip and brighten. ATO has been modified through the years so not sure if what you have is the same as before.
You all are awesome thanks
We’re moving into a new place and have never had a deck. The deck looks to already be stained or oiled but there are some black spots on the hand railing. It is coastal so I think due to moisture and sun damage. Do we need to strip the entire deck and restain?
Here’s another picture.
Yes, when you redo you will need to strip and brighten for the prep.