Hi, I am Scott Paul. I have been prepping decks for over 30 years. My sanding deck help tips on staining decking are based on my history as a wood deck restoration contractor. See here for more info about me.
- Using sandpaper over 60/80 grit leaves wood too smooth, closing pores and blocking proper deck stain penetration.
- Always use a power sander to speed up the process, but avoid circular sanders that leave swirl marks in the wood.
- Finish sanding by hand in difficult areas, and never exceed 60 or 80-grit sandpaper at any stage of preparation.
- After sanding, apply a deck cleaner followed by a wood brightener to neutralize raised pH levels and open wood pores.
- A wood brightener contains mild acid that restores the wood's natural pH balance, allowing deck stain to absorb correctly.
- In most cases, apply only one coat of stain to a sanded deck, unless using a solid color decking stain.
Why Sanding a Deck Can Be an Issue
I appreciate your input at Deckstainhelp.com as we continue to be your go-to source for the latest deck restoration news and trending topics through 2026. See below for an article about Why Sanding a Deck Can be an Issue.
Feel free to leave a comment or ask questions below.
Sanding A Wood Deck
Sanding your deck can reduce stain penetration
One of the most frustrating problems that can crop up when you stain or restain your deck is that the stain doesn’t absorb the wood correctly.
There are several different reasons this can happen, but one of the more common issues is that the boards were not correctly sanded or prepared for the task. Today, we will examine the main causes behind poor absorption and explore some of the measures you can take to negate this issue in the future.
Materials Need for Proper Deck Sanding
- Dry weather and a dry deck
- Gloves, protective eyewear, and sanding mask
- Power Sanders: Drum, belt, and hand sanders
- Sandpaper: 60-80 Grit
My Deck Sanding Tips
- Never Use More than 60-80 grit sandpaper.
- Use a Power Sander
- Final Prep after Sanding
- Staining the Deck
- Confused? Ask Me for Help!
Check Your Sandpaper Grit
Often, we don’t invest much thought into the sanding process and get on with it without careful planning. This is where your difficulties will arise.
When sanding wood to prepare for a new coat of stain, you have to be extremely careful with how much you sand the wood and the level of sandpaper grit you use. Anything over 60/80 grit is too much and will leave the wood overly smooth. This means the pores are too small to absorb the stain correctly.
Use a Power Sander
My Pro Tip: Using power sanders will speed up the sanding process. Avoid circular sanders as they can leave swirl marks in your wood.
A good wood stain finish always starts with the correct sanding preparation. It is important to begin with a power sander and always finish by hand to reach difficult areas. Remember no more than 60 or 80-grit paper.
Final Prep After Sanding
My Pro Tip: Cleaning and Brightening after sanding will remove the sand dust and open up the wood pores, allowing the deck stain to penetrate better.
The next step is to clean the wood thoroughly after the sanding. Deck cleaners, also known as deck washes, lift dirt and unsightly mildew that accumulate over time.
Most deck cleaners contain soaps to help them clean effectively. The downside of the soap is that it raises the wood’s pH level. This can make the wood appear darker in color, and the higher pH balance also makes it more difficult for the stain to penetrate.
To reverse this after using a deck cleaner, apply a wood brightener. A wood brightener contains a mild acid formula that neutralizes the higher pH balance caused by caustic soaps. The effect is that the wood’s pH balance is restored, and the wood is brightened back to its natural color. This will ensure that your wood looks natural and shines through as it should after applying the stain.
Staining The Deck
My Pro Tip: In most cases, only one coat of stain should be applied to a sanded deck. The one exception is if a solid color decking stain is used.
All that’s left to do now is stain the wood. If you are having trouble with stain penetration, follow the steps we have outlined in this guide—oversanding does not have to be the end of the world. Sand the wood again, and make sure to properly clean and brighten it before reapplying your stain.
Need Help? Deck Sanding Questions?
Prep or Stain Help? Please ask me below if you have questions about my tips or need help choosing a stain. Just post a comment below and include as much information as possible.
Want more help on deck sanding? See How To Sand a Deck.
how long does it take to deliver 10gal of TWP 100? I want to start prepping, but don’t want to do it too early.
That would vary based on where you live?
S year old cedar deck that was built last summer in South Dakota (extreme temperatures and both snow/rain). Last winter was fairly mild and we did not allow snow to sit on the deck but the wood had weathered and had small speckles of mold. We got around to prepping the deck for stain a couple weeks ago and am now realizing we made multiple mistakes. We first pressure washed then sanded everything with 120-220 (based on incorrect advice from a local hardware store- first of many mistakes). We then used a deck cleaner, and although we thoroughly washed after, we didn’t do the deck brightener until hours later. The wood then looked white or bleached in areas with some white fuzzies. So we started sanding with 80-180 grit to get rid of the white. Now after reading your sanding post, I believe we cannot stain as the pores are closed due to the finer grit, correct? What should we do about the white/bleached portions that are not fuzzy- Will it take up stain or do we need to sand it down to the raw wood as we had started to? The handrail is down to raw wood. It is mid September and I am worried about leaving it all winter again. It likely will not be nice enough to stain until at least May if we have to wait.
You can wait until Spring to weather this over sanded deck. Clean and brighten for prep and stain then. It will be okay over the winter.
Hello, We have removed all the old peeling and stuck on paint/stain/goop…then I cleaned and scrubbed with OxiClean, rinsed many times over, in the rain. When the rain stopped, it was dark so I did the oxalic acid the following day. I treated and rinsed many times over, waiting for the deck to dry now, BUT….the wood has quite a lot of furry bits that were not there when I began cleaning. What do I do now???? Please help
See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Company power washed unstained Ipe deck with just water ( I think) 10 days ago. The deck went from oxidized grey to blotchy white. They are waiting for dry weather to stain it with a natural colored oil. I took some 80grit sandpaper to some boards and took off the white blotches. Looks so much better. If they don’t sand will the blotchiness go away with the oil or do I need to sand it all off first?
If I need to sand, do I have to clean and brighten?
Oil? Are they any good? What do you recommend for Ipe
Ipe deck, 24yo, facing NE, 800sf still in great condition
Wooded Northern VA, half day blazing sun in summer, gets black slippery dirt when wet
Picture is after power washing. Company suggested Palm sanding with 120grit.
Thank you! in advance.
SB
That is furring. Best to buff it off. Never sand or buff finer than 60-80 grit.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Well, the company came back after 4 weeks (it’s been raining every other day) to sand (he said it was 80grit) and put the oil (Messer’s oil and Ipe Oil) on the deck and it started raining when he was almost finished. The beautiful IPE deck looks like a zebra. I think it was not sanded enough. He wants to put more oil on it.
I’m sick. More oil? leave it alone until next year? Now what do now to remedy my Ipe situation? Thanks Paul.
SharonB
If it was us, we would remove and start over. Strip and brighten.
Thank you for the great guide, I have a deck that is in North Dakota (So heavy snow and well below freezing temps in the winter) The deck gets full sunlight most of the day and it was built with pressure treated pine. The last time it was stained was with Tompson Semi transparent (that’s the only information I have on the product) about 4 years ago, so the stain is just gone in most parts of the deck.
I have pressure washed the deck, and used ZEP deck wash in a weed sprayer bottle and a heavy bristled brush, and that worked to get the mildew and and most of the old stain off, but there is still old stain left and the washed wood didn’t come out as an even color, so I am going to bite the bullet and sand the deck with a drum sander at 40 grit since we are going to use a Semi-transparent stain I don’t want to run the risk of the pressure washer ‘marks’ coming trough.
Once I am done sanding should I do the deck wash again or can I just move to the brighten step?
Clean and brighten since you are sanding would be best. Use a fully penetrating stain next. TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Semi-solid or solid for cedar deck in the Pacific Northwest?
Four yrs ago our redwood deck was restained with an inferior product that was supposed to be semi-transparent, but went on like solid. The color is an awful red. It hasn’t peeled but just looks blah. We are planning to restain/paint the deck now (along with the pergola)
I have decided to go with a semi-solid or solid to make it easier (I think!). What kind of product and prep do you recommend?
In which state is your deck located? WA state, Seattle area
How much sun/shade does your deck get? South-facing but on a greenbelt so sun in the summer
What type of wood is your deck made of? Redwood
Do you have mold or mildew issues? Very little on the underside of a couple of horizontal board of the pergola
Why/how did the previous stain fail? It has worn although, not peeled. It looks like orange paint.
What type and brand (if known) of stain did you use last time? HD Baer (contractor choice)
First photo (wet deck) is from 2021, the other two photos are recent
You will need a solid stain to cover this unless you want to fully sand and strip to get the Behr off. Use the Restore A Deck Solid Stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-solid-color-stain-review/
I had someone clean our new PT deck 5 days ago, then they came out and got paint splatter all over (long story). I decided to finish the job myself to avoid a long drawn out situation. I went out today to start trying to get the paint off and noticed the deck already looking discolored and see a lot of wood fibers coming off the boards. Pictures are of the deck as it looks now, and one section where I sanded to get the paint off.
Do I need to start all over by sanding, cleaning, and brightening the deck before I stain? It’s been weathered a year already (another long story). I appreciate any advice you may have. This deck project has been a total nightmare from the beginning.
They furred it up with the prep. See tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
You will need to sand it to fix this.
Thank you so much for the reply! Do you think I should wash and brighten again or will sanding be enough?
Yes, you need to brighten again after to open the grain and remove sand dust.
Thank you! I might end up purchasing a new belt sander for this because of the large area. It would take FOREVER with my orbital sander.
I had a 50′ x 8′ treated lumber covered deck built three months ago. Can I sand off the mill stamps and then lightly sand the entire deck. Will this even out the light spots and allow me to not have to wait 2 or 3 months for it to weather before staining?
No, see here about ink spots.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-the-ink-stamps-from-new-decking/
I have a deck ~20 yrs old, cedar. we bought the house about six years ago. They had about six coats of paint which was flaking off. About two years ago I sanded and repainted. It is bubbling now. I’m thinking about just resending and repainting. Thoughts?
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
20 years ago we put Thompson Water Seal on our PT deck… for the last 8 years we’ve tried to recoat to improve appearance. NOTHING will stick to it or penetrate, everything just flakes off. Do we need to replace the deck boards.
Have you tried stripper everything off and starting over? That would be the easiest thing to do.
Thanks for the quick reply. No stripper tried (yet). We did a thorough pressure wash, let it dry for 3 weeks in the sun, and applied a BM Armorcoat porch paint. Rep claimed it would stick to anything, last for years, and we believed him, it went on like thick glue, looked great all summer and fall and then It peeled off in huge sheets after the first winter. Now the Rep claims Thompson Water Seal is basically paraffin and nothing will stick to it. Hopefully, a good stripper will get deep enough to remove that old stuff?
The BM rep is passing the buck for selling you a poor stain. The Thompsons is not a very good sealer and only lasts a year or two so that is not the issue. Using poor-quality stains is probably more the reason for consistent failures.
To get off a porch paint you will probably need to power sand it.
There is a high tech test for seeing if your deck is ready to accept stain or paint: sprinkle a little water on it and watch what happens to that water. If it forms tight beads and those beads are still there after a couple minutes, NOTHING is going to penetrate into the grain. It will sit on the surface, look great this year, and FAIL the following spring .
We have just finished stripping and cleaning/brightening our 20 year old Cedar deck. It is in very good condition, with the exception of some the stair boards and a few spindles on the stair railing that were rotting, (they are exposed, and rest of the deck is covered). We have used Sherwin Williams SuperDeck semi-transparent originally and had recoated 4 times, and the last time it had started to peel off (down to bare wood in some spots.) It was more like a paint than semi-transparent. Want more of a stain look to allow woodgrain to show through. Not sure what product to use, we have a short window of temperatures staying above 40’s and not wanting to leave the whole deck unprotected over winter?
You want a penetrating semi-transparent stain that does not mask the grain. See top picks here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I have a fairly old redwood deck and fences. Because stripper (followed by brightener) didn’t remove all the old (film-forming) stain, I’ve had to sand some areas to remove that. While in a moderate climate zone, we’ve had recent rain and more is expected over the next 2 weeks. This has delayed the remaining sanding and the staining. How many weeks can the unstained redwood be exposed to the elements before it adversely affects the wood (both aesthetically and structurally)? And any suggestions for protecting the exposed wood until I can complete the sanding and stain it? While the deck is small enough to tarp, there’s too much fencing to do that. FYI, the deck is smooth surface and the fences are rough cut. Thanks very much for your advice.
It can go months. Just clean and brighten when fully done with the sanding. No need to trap anything.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/do-i-prep-after-sanding-deck/
Thanks for the reply. We’ve previously used RAD and this year used Woodrich HD-80 (both followed by brighteners). They left quite a bit of fur that required much sanding, a tremendous amount of work. Are there any gentler products that would still be effective yet wouldn’t cause furing? For same reason, we’d prefer to go with garden hose rather than power washer. We’d also prefer a gentler product to avoid further inconveniencing our neighbors. For protection, they’ve already had to relocate their patio furniture and wet their plants twice. (The contractor originally rinsed THE HD-80 off too soon and thus had to repeat the process.) Thanks!
There is not a “gentler” product that would be effective as well. Furring does not happen from pressure washing or even the stripper. It is your wood that does it. Using the RAD stripper at 1/2 strength may be enough to strip and reduce the chance of any furring. Brighten as soon as possible to neutralize when done.
Trying to redo a 10 year old deck. Some splitting, black and green. Had nothing on it existing. Power washed it clean. But transparent stains are turning out very very dark in color. I’m assuming this is because the wood is so dry and soaking up alot? Even the lightest stains are just so dark. Is there something I can apply to the wood so the stain won’t be so dark? Can I mix a clear with a transparent stain to lighten it up? Does this have anything to do with the fact it was only power washed? Any suggestions for stain?
Post some pics.
Try diluting the stain with that brand’s clear oil.
I’m rehabbing a 25 yr. old deck. Floor, top rail and steps have new pine boards (weathered for 6 months), but railings, stringers remain with redwood stain. I’ve started sanding the railings, stringers and 4×4’s, to remove the redwood color and to remove some of the sun damage from the wood. The contractor says I don’t need to continue sanding; he’ll clean and brighten the deck and then stain – 2 coats of semi-transparent on the floor/steps and solid on the railings, stringers. Thoughts?
You do not have to remove teh red stain from the railing fully if you are using a solid stain over it.
My arms and hands thank you!!! They’re still vibrating a week later!
the deck is 12 years old. neglected greying splitting and splintering and green stuff
Ive sanded it with 60 then 80 grit
There is still stain on railings and spindles…
Shall i use a stripper
Then a cleaner
Then a brightener
My original intention was to use behr deckover…the company said i could paint over existing stain
But the reviews for this product and others of its kind are not good
So I thinking solid stain
I jjst want to prep correctly
Post some pics in the comments for prep help.
We are in Northern Ontario Canada. We built a new western red cedar deck in 2019. In 2020 I scrubbed the deck twice with Palmolive and oxy twice. After it dried, we stained the deck in the mid afternoon in the shade, with one coat of Olympic clear waterproofing sealant. We were told to expect two years because of the climate. Please see the attached picture. We are looking at staining again this year but want to make sure the preparation is correct including sanding. Thank you in advance
Strip and brighten for prep. No need to sand. Use a better stain like the TWP 200 Series or Restore A Deck Stains.
Thank you very much. We understand with red cedar, different colors and grains (if I have that right). We are seeing small fibers. I know pressure washing is a no no. Can I use a deck brush still for deck preparation?
Appreciate the help
You can use a pressure washer as a rinsing tool while using proper prep products. Scrub first if you want and then pressure wash rinse after.
So I tried a Bob Villa oxy clean method. Not very good results. Only did half the deck. Western red cedar. Lots of fibers. Hand scrubbed with deck brush. Little nervous to use my gas power washer on the deck. We only want a semi transparent stain. First attempt in 2020 was Olympic transparent.
Any preparation advice
Thanks again
You need a stripper and then a brighener. You use the pressure washer after applying the stripper. Try Restore A Deck products.
I stripped & brightened deck, then sanded. Looks like good chance of rain over the next week. I’m using Ready Seal. Can I leave deck sanded over a wk or two and then stain when there’s clear weather or would i have to start over…seems to be differing opinions on this. I guess the only other option is to seal and hope for no rain for 24 hrs. Thanks
You can wait and you may want to switch brands of stain. Ready Seal doesn’t last and leaves an oily film in many cases.
Thanks. I did a test area with the cedar stain and the darkish gray grain parts turned black, so looks like tigers stripes. Should i brighten the deck again or use a darker stain like pecan?
The dark parts are part of your internal wood grain. Brightener would not do anything for this. Darker colors would blend better but you will need more of a medium to dark brown.
I have a deck and had some one come out and power wash it and it got all messed up. Sanded it today and added a coat of stain and I think I sanded to smooth. The stain did not take well. What should I do
Remove it all and start over. After you remove it, let it weather until Spring. Clean and brighten then. Also, choose a better penetrating stain.
Brand new deck, aged 5 months, all sealed except my wife placed a metal plant stand on the unsealed deck and when we moved it it left a rust stained ring. My wife got out a palm sander and sanded the ring out but used the whole surface of the sander to do it. Now we have a two foot in diameter “whiteish” mark on the deck. My thought is to not stain it and let it weather for a few months to “darken” it up some, then seal it. What would you do?, thank you in advance for your advise
You cannot blend this with the other wood unless you even it all out and that will require stripping off the sealer, weathering it for a few months, clean it all, and then recoat.
I’ve had to replace some boards on my deck, so they look different from all the others. How can the deck be prepared for staining so all the boards look the same?
It is not possible to have then new and old wood blend when using the transparent or semi-transparent stain. The new wood will stain lighter in color.
Any downside to staining the douglas fir deck after only using 40 grit on a belt sander rather than doing another sanding course using 60/80 grit as you discuss in your article? Wouldn’t the rougher deck absorb better and hold up better? The deck is only 1 year old, but I am sanding the deck due to significant grain raising issues on many boards as well as some stain peeling in the Sherwin Williams semi-transparent stain. The deck is on the south house side, so it gets consistent sun. The deck is located on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington state. I used number 1 doug fir 2x4s, but not sure what that means these days as far as quality is concerned. Thanks.
Rougher will absorb better so it is okay if you are fine with the current texture.
I built a cedar bench next to my pool last summer. I pre-treated all the cedar with Ready Seal before assembly. Now it needs retreating. I sanded it down in spots to correct minor height differences and remove a few sliver hazards. My plan is to clean it with Sodium Percarbonate then brighten it with Citric acid. I am just wondering if the cleaning and brightening will even things out, or will the sanded portions stand out? Thanks.
Where you stained, it may be uneven or lighter in color where you spot sanded. Best to sand it all even with 60-80 grit and then clean and brighen for final prep.
After 3 years of my cedartone deck the stain I used did not stay. Not in all spots but various enough to make it look terrible. So I flipped over all the boards and now working with the other side which is now no longer toned. I have pressure washed it and ready for the next step which I am told is sanding. All I read is to use belt sander 60-80 grit. Correct?
Correct. Clean and brighten the wood after.
Hi,
We have a 1 year old deck. It is pressure treated lumber and the original owners put a down deck-over paint before selling this to us 11 months ago. I don’t think this was ever cured and was a quick job to sell. Now a year over, we have peeling, Etc.
I power sanded the deck as pressure washing didn’t help. Except for the edges, most of the old Stain is out. Really tough to get the edges clear. Some questions.
A) I plan to clean and brighten before staining. Do I need the deck to sit for a period of time after brightening or Is it ok to stain right after.
If it helps, we live in Wisconsin.
B) our plan is to stain this solid gray ( defy or RAD). I am guessing this should work on top of the current sand deck with stained edges?
C) we have a few chips in the deck. What caulk can I use here?
Thanks in advance!!!
A. You should be okay to stain after.
B. It should be okay.
C. Fillers and caulks do not work very well on decks. Caulk does work better though, just make sure it is paintable.
I just bought a house with a huge deck. The issue is that the deck is 20 years old. My kids get splinters when walking barefoot on it. Do I need to sand it to get the splintered wood smooth? I tried using a 36 grain sand pad but it’s breaking up the wood more. I want to stain it a different color as well. What process should I use here?
Clean and then brighen the wood first with Restore A Deck Kits and then lightly hand sand or buff to with 60 grit paper to remove splinters. Stain with Restore A Deck Stain or TWP Stains.
I have sanded my pine deck with 120 grit, I know now I should have used 60 grit. How do i open the pores back up?
Let it weather for 1-2 months and then clean and brighten for final prep.
Hello
I have a 5 year old deck.(10’x17’)
No coating on the deck as of now.
I’m in Toronto.
Deck has turned grey in color now.
I’m planning to refinish it , can you please guide me through the process and type of stain to be used ..
My questions :
+Which type of sander I need use ?as I will be renting one.
+Stain -taking into consideration the geographic location and would not like to have a frequent maintenance..?
+Do we need to put a sealer after stain???
Looking forward to Your expert Advice .
You do not need to sand for prep. Use a deck cleaner and pressure washing. Brightener after. Stain with TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains. You never apply a sealer over a deck stain.
Hi,
we are having the cedar deck sanded to remove what’s left of the solid stain. Can we stain the deck with a semi transparent stain or do we have to use a solid stain again? Thanks in advance for your input.
If you remove all of the solid stain, then you can go with a penetrating semi-transparent like one of these brands:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Hi, I’m hoping you can help me. I’ve just used the RAD stripper and brightener to strip the railing and spindles of the ugly Superdeck stain from a few years back. Railings/spindles are regular wood (might be cedar) but the deck floor looks a IPE hardwood. The ipe is natural color, it grayed out already and it looks nice after I’ve cleaned it. Unfortunately I’ve dropped some RAD stripper on the IPE floor and it stained it and it won’t come off. I’ve washed it right away with water but it’s still so ugly. Can you please let me know if I can fix this somehow ? Pls see picture. Thank you.
No picture.
Sorry, picture didn’t upload before. Please see below, thank you.
The IPE looks gray still. Clean that off the gray first and neutralize all with a deck brightener. The Stripper raises the pH of the wood, that is the reason the spots are there. You have to use the brightener to get it to lighten.
Thank you for your reply. Is RAD (Restore-a-deck) a good cleaner to take off the gray from the IPE and get rid of the spots caused by the stripper ? I know I’ll need to use the brightener after the cleaner. But please note I do not intend to stain the IPE afterwards, I want to keep it natural. I will maybe use just a clear IPE oil. Which cleaner would you recommend for that ? Thanks again.
Try to do both clean and brighten, to even it out as we suggested.
Hello,
Installed our deck last March, and let it age until now.
Purchased TWP 1500 Pecan for our stain.
The container says to prep the wood by using a household bleach solution and lightly power washing the wood.
Do I still need to use a wood brightener? Will the pecan color look different with or without using a brightener?
Thank you in advance
Actually, you want their Gemini Restore Kit for the prep, not bleach: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/gemini-restore-a-deck-kit-review/
You need to clean and brighten the wood.
Hello,
My deck is approx 12 years old ipe mahogany.
I live in a wooded area which results in dirt/mold accumulating on the deck.
I am thinking of having the deck sanded being sure not to smooth it out too much and close all of the pores.
Every year or two since installation, I have methodically cleaned the deck following the cleaning/brightening routine. I have used a variety of products after the cleaning.
Those products were Australian Timber Oil and a couple of other products targeted at exotic woods.
I performed these cleanings and timber oil, etc. procedures doing each board at a time for a deck approx 24 x 12 feet.
My efforts have never been rewarded. The only time the deck looked good was when it was brand new and when it rains.
The timber oil, etc. did not produce an even color. i
Still, the ipe mahogany is extremely strong and I have not had to replace deck boards as in the past. this is good.
I would like to use an opaque latex stain to beautify this deck. However, this is not the proper course of action.
Is there any thinking “outside the box” that can help this situation. Such as, putting a layer of X over the top of the deck….like trex?
THANKS FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION AND SYMPATHY
You should never use a solid stain on Mahogany. Best to strip and or sand it all down to the bare wood and then brighen the wood. Stain with one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
If you want to replace it, you would have to remove the current wood as you cannot but a composite over it.
Oxyalic acid ruined my 6 month old PT pine deck. I carefully followed directions, and rinsed thoroughly. It looked great as it went on, but even after rinsing each board at least 6-10 times, it dried with a white film. I spent a few months working with the manufacturer, to no avail. I’m now sanding it down now, but I still need to get some mildew spots out. Do the oxygen based cleaners work well? And should I use it before or after I sand?
Question #2, I have trees and humidity in Virginia, with a north facing deck; any advice on stains that inhibit mildew?
I’d also like to get it done before winter, but the temperatures are cooling down.
Thanks!
Oxalic Acid (what is in some brighteners) does not prep new wood. You need to use a deck cleaner first to remove the oxidized wood cells and then use a wood brightener after. Your wood is far from ruined though just needs to be done correctly.
Use Restore A Deck Wood Stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-solid-color-stain-review/
Have what I think is a pt pine deck, unsure of age. Was very grayed and weathered. Pressure washed, then used valspar deck cleaner and brightener (hadn’t yet learned everything I now know from this site). Still could see old stain (Olympic woodland oil) unsure when previous home owner applied. Started sanding some blotchy areas which has snowballed into sanding the entire deck by hand. It’s looking amazing after this step, but having to use 40 grit. With this step taking so long and honestly thought I’d have the job done by now, coupled with reading about how sanding can actually decrease absorption looking for guidance on next steps. I am in Omaha, Nebraska and the weather is turning fast here. Wondering if I should go over everything with an 80 grit, if that’s even necessary, leaving the deck over the winter, coming back in spring when conditions permit with RAD brightener followed by TWP 100 or if there’s anything I’m not considering? Thanks for all the help! Appreciate it greatly!
Finish the sanding, let sit to Spring, clean and brighten all to even it out then. Stain after.
I have an approximate 600 sq ft cedar deck that is 5 yrs old. We never prepped the wood prior to staining and now the finish is peeling off the deck. I want to sand it down and have done some research as to the grit 60/80, but some of the board edges are uneven so I am unsure which style (rental) sander to use to ensure Im not on my knees with a palm sander to get the areas missed. Can someone give me any advice.
Thanks, Vince
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Does anyone have any experience using the product ECO Wood Stain? It claims it is a one application approach? I was keen to use this product as it is very clean with no toxins. If I weren’t to use this product what product would you recommend for someone who has auto-immune/easily irritated by chemicals?
Also I feel the pain of all those currently sanding, I am about 4 days in now sanding my 500 sq foot deck! Yikes it takes a long time! 😯
No, we never used it but there are plenty of other stains that are low VOC without toxins. Restore A Deck Stain and Defy Extreme are both eco-safe and low VOC.
What kind Of hand sander is the best to use on a deck?
Palm sander.
Drum sander. 8″ Home Depot. Done over 3,000 this way.
I second the drum sander, and will add edger to the mix for the edges and railings. Doing a deck with a palm sander is CRAZY. Like cleaning your bathroom with an electric toothbrush!
Drum sanders and edgers have a bit of a learning curve. If you are going to do it yourself, I would recommend the YouTube channel “How to sand a deck.” It is a British guy, but he knows his stuff. One of his videos is a reaction to the top hits on YouTube about sanding a floor. His techniques are tried and true, and he demonstrates and explains the science of wood sanding very well. Best of luck!
I have sanded the surface but want to sand in between the wood slats if possible to get rid of the darker stain. There is about a 3/8 inch gap. Final goal is a grey semi-transparent and I’m afraid I’ll see the old dark stain in the gaps. Please advise on tool and or method.
Sorry, but we do not know of a way to sand between the boards.
Hi, I have some question about sanding decks:
1. Do you know what is the best technology abrasive for sanding what brands?
2. What is your better recommendation to sanding and clean a Ipe wood deck and other oil woods or harwoods.
Best Regards
1. Does not matter on the brand of paper.
2. I am not understanding this question?
I have a 330 sqft deck and have been sanding a total of 15 hours on and off now. L I am almost done but never thought it would take this long. I had to resort to 40 grit to remove the failing deck paint. This has been a frustrating process. Once done should I use a cleaner and brightener ?
Yes.
We have a 30 year old deck that we put Behr DeckOver on and within a year it started peeling. We scraped most of the paint off but few stubborn places remained, so rented a sander and my husband used 20 grit sand paper to remove the rest of DeckOver paint. We realized we over sanded our deck and it has furries on it and it so we have let it weather for 6 weeks. In that time, I have purchased Restore-A-Deck, cleaner, brightener, and semi-transparent stain but I think we might need to re-sand or buff out the deck first. How to fix this so my deck will be ready to stain?
Clean the wood first and the sand with 60-80 grit paper. Brighten last and rinse well. Stain after with one coat.
I have a brand new, untreated deck on the Oregon coast that has weathered for a few months now. I did the water test and it seems to be ready. Since it had greyed and collected some mild dirt/algae quite a bit, I decided to apply a 30 second cleaner and pressure wash. Didn’t realize a brightener would have been ideal, and now I’m left with a whole lot of fuzzies in certain spots. Pictures attached.
Looks like it’s okay to apply brightener even after the wood has dried, but I’m stuck on what to do with the fuzzies.
I’m finding a lot of conflicting info about whether I should sand or just let the fuzzies be. My plan was to sand the fuzzies down using 80 grit hand sander and pole sander (or if you think orbital is okay I’ll do that), and then apply a brightener (using defy), let it dry, then do the stain (using ready seal). But I read on another article of yours that you should NOT sand new wood. So I’m frozen, not sure how to proceed.
I guess I have a few questions:
Is it okay to sand fuzzies off of untreated wood?
Should I brighten first before sanding? or after?
Is it okay to use an orbital sander on 80 grit or is that risky?
Thanks so much!
See this for help: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Also, you may want to return the RS. It has issues with fading fast and rub off.
Living on the west coast in a marine climate I stain my deck every 2 years. As a result I only sand it using 60/80 and then directly apply the stain.I have had good results but wonder if by not cleaning after sanding leads to a quicker breakdown. I use an oil base
What kind of brand of stain do you recommend?
See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I have sanded, washed and brightened my deck and am ready to stain (after 48 hours of dry weather). After removing the old solid stain, I found the cedar has an uneven “two-tone” natural color to it. I was planning on using a semi-transparent stain. Will that even out the coloring? I don’t really mind the two-tone, but I don’t want it to look like a mistake. Would it look weird to leave it?
Staining it will not even it out. It is just how your wood is. You need to stain it for UV protection.
Oh my gosh, that wood grain is stunning!!!
Thats the woods natural color. Its a blend of heart (Red) and sap wood (white). Its a bit lower quality of wood as heart is more dense (middle of tree). There is no way to make a single color is using a semi-transparent sealer (which you NEED to use to avoid future sanding). Ive used what they now call 1500 series TWP and like Calif redwood color. Ive used over 4,000 gallons gallons of TWP in 30 years. I was fortunate to speak to the inventor of the product. He also formulated the paint that coats the Alaska pipe line.
So how long after the wash should can you wait to use the brighter? Likewise, after brightening how long can you wait till you stain?
Thanks
You brighten right after the cleaning on the same day. As for staining, that would vary based on the stain brand and type you are using?
Brand is #1deck
Using Dark walnut Semi-Transparent Water based
48 hours after prep.
I am in the process of staining a deck for my neighbor but I am using a stain that is at least a year old and a lot of it has hardened in the bottom of the can. Vigorously stirred it and applied on a couple of boards and the color after drying is a totally different shade of brown? Is this stain just too old to use?
Yes, it has gone bad.
So I’ve completely stripped a solid stain/paint off my deck, and am done sanding thoroughly. I want to use a dark semi-transparent stain, versus another solid stain. Wood is in good, not great condition after all the sanding. Should I be okay? Or am I doomed to have to use another solid color stain?
And if okay, what steps should I take after the sanding to get the dark semi-transparent stain right?
If you remove all of the solid 100% then yes, you can use a semi-transparent. Clean and brighten the wood for final prep. Stain with TWP in Dark Oak or Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown or Black Walnut.
Can a deck with uneven boards (some are at different elevations) be sanded I was told by Contracter it cannot because some would be hit and others would not when sanding and also the nails in the boards would tear up the sand paper.
The contractor is correct.
First pound in any nails that are sticking up. Then use a hand belt sander on each board and then it doesn’t matter if the boards are uneven. The contractor said no because he wanted to use a huge drum sander that you push around like a carpet cleaner which is fast and easy. Find a contractor who’s not afraid of a little work. You might have to pay more, but if your current contractor is telling you that you need a new deck, I’m betting hand-renewing this one will be cheaper.
You absolutely can. You countersink nails or screws. Pressure wash (water only). After it dries it can be drum sanded. The higher boards will be plained down first. I go as low as 16 grit on an EZ 8 drum. Ive done this process at least 2,000 times in the last 30 years (thats actually my picture oat the top of this article. Realize deck stain help 100% wants to give you the best information they know. The below decks all had nails or screws.
Im a general contractor in Calif for over 30 years now.
Willson Deck Restoration and Construction.
I have a mahogany deck that hasn’t been stained in over 2 years and now has a lot of mildew and fading. Pressure washing doesn’t get it clean enough. I plan to sand with a belt sander at 60 grit. Should I pressure wash it after sanding before staining? Or can I go ahead and stain without cleaning or using s brightener? I will be using Armstrong Clark hardwood oil stain.
After sanding, do a final prep with the cleaner and the brightener to help the stain soak in better.
i was told not to get the wood wet after sanding that if i used cleaner or it rained on the wood after sanding id have to do the whole sanding process again.
however your saying sand & then use the cleaner & brightener & then stain.
so many online searches say sanding is last step before staining
are there any issues with applying the cleaner & brightener after sanding ? or the wood getting wet after sanding?
thx
They told you wrong. Sanding is not the last step but the first step. You always clean and brighten after the sanding to open up the pores of the wood for the stain.
We had a new cedar deck installed about 10 days ago. It has been rained on twice and water seems to absorb into the new deck boards, except for 3 or 4 boards. Do we need to do anything or can we just go ahead and stain with the semi-transparent stain after a few days of drying. Thanks!
No, you cannot stain it yet. See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I power washed, cleaned and brightened then stained my deck 2 years ago with SW Superdeck solid stain. After 2 years the stain all peeled off on nearly every board but some new boards that I replaced. The deck is weathered and previous owner did not care for it. Was this due to poor prepping? Should I sand this time around for better penetration? If so, you recommend sanding first then cleaning and brightening? Thank you!
Pressure wash and strip off the loose stain. Let dry and sand any more loose solid stain. Cover the intact stain with a new coat of solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Here is a photo. Same recommendation? Thank you again for all your help!
Yes.
If 95% of the stain is removed with the pressure washer do I need to still use a deck stain stripper? Or move on to Sanding? Thanks again for your help!
You can move on to sanding if you like.
Use a rented squar buff sander (Home Depot or rental places). Go 36, 60, and finish with 100. Take your time, you’ll be amazed at the results.
Decided to lightly sand my deck to remove excessive burring and some other minor issues. Used a ShopVac to remove residue and also took a blower to the deck. However, since I was under the impression that a brightener was best used soon after the stripper, the sanding and clean-up came after those two steps had been done and the wood had dried.
So, is it necessary to rebrighten the deck? If so, does that restart the 48-72 hr wait period to stain?
Yes, brighten the wood and pressure rinse it o open the pores of the wood. Wait to stain.
Thanks, but have to admit I’m a little surprised by the answer, only because after sending my question I went through some other articles and came across a similar question and reply from a few days ago (the most recent): https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Can you please clarify why the answers are different when the questions are essentially the same? I’m genuinely curious if there are specific reasons for the different responses.
We tell everyone to brighten after sanding. The other answer should have said “is” needed. Typo.
We sanded our 7-year-old cedar deck to remove old solid stain so we can apply semi-transparent. It took longer than expected and now it is too hot to apply new stain. We also had to replace a couple of rotted boards with new so I think we need to wait to stain anyway. Plan is to clean and brighten before staining in the fall when cooler. Will sanding now and staining that much later be bad for the wood? Please tell me we don’t need to sand again!
No issues.
I made the mistake of power washing my painted deck with a deck cleaner, then trying to remove the left over paint by sanding it with an orbital sander. After I finish sanding, do I need to rewash the deck with a cleaner again before using a deck brightener, or can I just move onto the step of using a wood brightener since j already cleaned the deck before sanding? Thanks!
You can just brighten and rinse well with a pressure washer.
Hello, sanding railings, hemlock, to clear feathering,weathering. Do I also need to sand deck for re application of same oil if deck just needs clean/brighten? Looking for consistency of color and application. Right rail light sand. Will clean/brighten also. How long can I wait after sanding to start stain? Thanks again
Just clean and brighten. No need to sand.
Ok thanks. How long can I wait after sanding to clean,brighten and stain ? Would like to space it out due to work, weather and plain old exhaustion. Thank you again. You really helped with front deck project!
Week or two.
I have just had a new deck built using pressure treated 2x12s for deck board’s. Three days of sun and some of the boards are already cracking. Do you still advise I do not stain till wood has seasoned 3 or more months ? I live in the north west and we get alot of rain. I was going to use a beahr semi transparent water based stain from home depot . Any thoughts on this?
Behr has terrible reviews: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
As for new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
One more question I forgot to ask. I’ve read that sanding with 60-80 grit paper will open the pores, but using anything finer than 80 grit will close the pores. You’re saying that sanding will close the pores. Which is correct? Can I sand with 60-80 grit paper without closing the pores?
Yes.
I have two questions. I’m 74 years old trying to restore my neglected deck. Due to my age and the heat and humidity I’m only able to clean a few boards at a time. Will it still be okay to apply a wood brightener even when some of the boards were cleaned over two weeks ago?
After cleaning some of the boards with water mixed with Sodium Percarbonate and Sodium Carbonate I’ve noticed a very hard white film like substance in a few places. I’ve tried using an orbital sander with 50 grit paper and found the substance very difficult to sand off. Any idea what it might be and how to remove it? The decking is pressure treated pine and it was last cleaned and stained 15 years ago with Olympic clear sealant.
We would need to see pictures. You can brighten when done.
Our cedar deck boards were damaged from a power washer several years ago, were weathered/untreated after the original stain wore away, and they caused splinters. We are trying to fix these issues so that our deck is comfortable to walk on and nice to look at. So far we have used the RAD cleaner and a scrub brush (caused lots of fuzzies). We then rented a drum sander and had to use 36 grit sand paper in order to remove the ridges and splinters on the deck boards. I’m concerned that our boards are now too smooth to stain effectively. In your opinion, what are the next steps at this time… 1) Cleaner, brightener, then stain right away or 2) Wait a couple months for the wood to weather, then use cleaner, brightener, and stain? Appreciate your input.
Clean and brighten now and then apply one coat of the stain.
Thanks so much, will do. Curious why not 2 coats of stain (we’re using Armstrong Clark).
Because you sanded, just one coat.
I’m sanding solid stain off my deck to prepare it for a semi-transparent, so I need to get ALL the old stain off. I hate stripping chemicals as I feel they are bad for the environment(I live in a mountain area). I’m using a palm sander, and, as it’s a slow process, I’m ok with that. It all going fine except the 6″ x 6″ support posts are pressure treated(The rest of the deck and rails are redwood) and the old solid stain has sunk down into the 1/4″ “cuts” in the treated wood. The palm sander doesn’t seem to go deep enough to get it all out without going through a huge amount of sandpaper. Is there a trick to getting that old solid stain out? I tried grinding with good removal results, but I find it takes too much of the wood away and leaves a very uneven surface. Not really the look I’m going for, but I’ll accept that if there’s no alternative. I guess I would be ok with using a small amount of chemical stripper on the pressure treated posts only if that would do the trick. I’m thinking I can probably control most of the runoff and keep it from going into the ground around my home. I’m using 60 grit sandpaper for the redwood portion. Would it be ok to go to a 40 grit on the posts, then sand again with the 60 grit? Can you tell me which of these methods would be my best option or suggest one I haven’t thought of?
You cannot strip a solid stain so your only option is to sand: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
You can use 40 and then 60.
Sanded and painted 3 years ago with BEHR deck over. Peeling began so I pressure washed and scraped the old paint off. 50% of the old paint seems to be still be adequately adhered.
Should I continue to pressure wash and scrape until 100% of the wood is bare? Or can I paint over the old paint with BEHR deck over paint again?
Should I plan on doing this every three years or is there a longer lasting option? I’m also open to sanding if that’s a better option. I don’t mind putting money or effort in, but it is a 15 year old deck.
You cannot apply anything over this. Sand it all off. Once removed use a solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Every 2-3 years.
When re-staining a solid stain every 2-3 years (as recommended above re. an older deck/wood case), must the prior coat again be completely removed/sanded to bare wood? Or just cleaned & brightened before applying the new coat? Why not recommend a semi-transparent oil or water based stain? I understand solids hide flaws of older deck wood better, but are there other major trade-offs? E.g., are there practical issues in completely removing all solid stain residuals, or once a solid is used is it simply best/easiest to stay with solids?
My deck is similar to Hansendap’s, but I’m removing/sanding peeling Benjamin Moore Arbor Coat solid, applied 2 years ago to properly prepared 16 year old pressure treated pine (Wisconsin, full sun, no mold/mildew). I’m leery of manufacturer claims/guarantees (and good luck filing a claim), and with 16 year old wood I’d like to avoid repeated deep sanding every 2-3 years (if that’s often required with solid stains these days). I thank you in advance for any clarifications/recommendations/guidance regarding possibly switching to a semi-transparent, or if currently top rated solid stains are indeed worth a try. Much appreciated!
No stain will last more then 2-3 years so up to you if you want to prep to remove the peeling solid stain and recoat with another solid (which is easier of already a solid stain) or sand it all down to the bare wood and go with a semi-transparent. That will be harder to do now but easier to maintain in the future.
I used a fast-acting deck cleaner on my untreated new fir deck (8 months). It made the wood spotty and it looks almost bleached in spots. What should I do?
Redo it with a proper deck cleaner and wood brightener: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
My brother sanded my Dad’s back deck using an orbital sander, then the next day washed it using deck cleaner and stained it with one coat of Intergrain Ultradeck Deck Oil in Merbau. The issues are a) the sanding is uneven in spots so much so you can see the swirls and this is highlighted by the stain b) the stain was applied unevenly so it looks darker in some patches c) the sides of the timber between the slats haven’t been stained and have drip marks on them which can be seen.
How can I fix all of this?
You will need to strip it all off and start over.
I have a 21 year old 12’x12′ deck that I just pressure washed (hasn’t been stained in many years). Obviously some tiny “splinter” size pieces of wood are sticking up and a couple of the boards are slightly warped on one end. I’m thinking of using an orbital sander…is this a good choice? For this deck, would you still recommend the 60-80 grit? Thank you!
Yes, you can use this and the grit of 60-80.
Thank you very much for your input! Tough finding one locally but finally did – now having trouble finding the hook and loop pads for it! Strangely, when I stained the ramp leading to my storage shed with Cabot stain a few years ago, it seemed the wood rotted within a couple months of me staining it (hadn’t really seen much rotting of it until after I stained it). Hopefully this won’t happen with my deck – LOL! Plan on using Valspar or Thompson’s Water Seal this time! Anyway, I appreciate your help!!!
Okay I am the caretaker of my church they had a deck put in awhile ago it was 3 years later that I stained the deck right after the winter it started to peel then it was stained again right after winter it peeled again. How do I fix this so it won’t happen again
Post a picture. What stain brand and type did you use?
okay will do how do I post the picture
Click the picture icon and upload it from the computer.
Here is a picture of the deck I was asking about it peels on floor boards and the hand rails any help would be great
Pressure wash for prep, let dry and spot sand any loose paint. Apply another coat of solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thank you do i use 60 grit 1st then 80 grit last how long do I let dry to stain
60-80. 48 hours to dry.
Do I use any type of deck wash or just pressure wash. Then I would sand do I need to wash down after I sand or just stain it. I hate asking all these question but it is becoming a pain doing this every year
here is a picture on the deck I am having the problems with I don’t remember what stain and what it was stained with the 2nd time all I know the 1st time I got the stain at true value and the 2nd time was at Lowe’s
I hope you got the picture
I have just finished sanding off an old semi solid stain from a pressure treated deck. After sanding, in some areas I have sanded off the pressure treatment exposing the bare pine which is lighter than the rest of the deck. After testing the new stain, it looks like these exposed areas do not soak up the stain well. Based on this, i am worried i will get very uneven result. Any advice for this situation? I haven’t used a cleaner or brightener yet, but I plan to before staining. Perhaps that will help. Attached are a couple of pics that show good boards after staining vs boards with exposed wood after stating to show the difference. Thoughts?
Thanks
Let the wood sit for 1-2 months bare and then clean and brighten for prep. This is the only way to even out the porosity.
I have a deck that is new wood, never stained or painted or anything. It’s been sitting for about 6 months and I’m ready to stain. Is sanding still necessary when wood has never had anything on it and is in good shape? I also already used a deck wash on it.
You do have to prep. See here fore new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
How dry should your deck be for sanding? We live in Upstate NY and are now past the dampness that comes with Winter and Spring.
No rain for 24 hours.
i have a 1200 sq ft deck that was stained with Cabot timber oil 3 years ago. The deck is over a pond so I can’t use chemicals or soap to clean. Power wash is the only option I can see. Can I use a water base over the existing oil?
No, you cannot apply a different brand of any type over the Cabot. Either sand it off or stay with Cabot.
I built My cedar deck last year, do I need to sand it or am I okay to clean/brighten it. I’m going to using Cabot’s timber oil… how long will this last.
Clean and brighten for the prep. Stain with one of these better brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
So no need to sand, When would one need to sand before staining?
No need to sand.
I sanded down and removed old semitransparent stain and I am going to switch colors and brands. My question is the old stain on the edge of the cracks going to show through if I am using another semitransparent stain? If so how exactly do you go about sanding them
You cannot sand that off. It will show through. Not much you can do but maybe choose a color that is similar so it does not stand out. DArk brown semi-transparent stain. Like TWP Dark Oak or Rustic Brown by Armstrong Clark.
I am refinishing an older deck. I cleaned it then sanded the floor and all the rails, then we had unexpected rain showers over night. How long do I have to wait to stain the deck?
48 hours after a rain is normal.
I have an old painted deck that I’ve stripped, sanded and cleaned. Problem is the sander I used didn’t get all the paint off and is still showing the wood to be rough with deep grooves. Is there a magical tool that can bring back the wood, or is it all elbow grease with a belt sander from here?
Sorry, no magical tool.
I have stripped and brightened my deck and there is still resemblance of the last semi transparent cedar stain on the deck that I’m replacing. Do I need to sand out the left over or will the new stain cover up the portions that are left over? I will be retaining with Armstrong-Clark transparent cedar tone.
You should be good to stain.
I already sanded my deck with 100 grit sand paper. What stain would you recommend if I don’t want to rent the sander and start over.
None really as they may not soak in and could peel.
Let it sit for a couple of months and then clean and brighten for final prep and it should be okay.
I have a cedar deck with a semi stain that looks terrible, peeling, worn, I tried my hand belt sander with 60 grit but taking for ever..stain not reallyeven coming off..
What type of deck/floor sander do you recommend…
See tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
I have a new PT deck I installed last summer. Going to stain now but I noticed that there are many screw holes that were installed too deep/rough (thanks to my novice friends), so I want to sand to remove these splinters before sealing. Should I just sand the screw holes (with 80 grit), or sand the whole surface? Wood is 9 months old, never sealed or stained.
Just lightly hand sand those areas.
80 grit?
Yes.
Sorry, but 60 grit ain’t gonna do it. It barely removes any of the previous finish. 24 grit on a 4 inch belt sander. If using a 12×18 sander 20 grit. Then apply a deck brightener and it will help open the pores.
My deck is painted brown and I’ve redone it twice in the last 5 years. It’s a big deck and a lot of work but the paint is peeling again and it looks awful. I want to rent an electric sander and sand all the paint off and then stain it. There is also a big pine tree that hangs over the deck so there’s always tree sap. What would you recommend I do. Also, I’m 75 years old (woman) so would I be taking on a job that is too much for me at my age? Thank you
It is a lot of work. I would suggest hiring it out if you want to sand this down.
We cleaned our 10 year old deck which has never been stained – only sealed with clear sealant. We used the bleach, non-amonnia soap, alcohol mixture to clean it with a stiff brush and water hose. I like the greying effect of weatherization and plan to put a clear sealant on it. Do we need to use a brightener and will this help in evening out any wood tone variations from age?
A brightener will not be needed or help to even out the variations.
I have approximately 15 coats of stain on my deck and, even though I have sanded a couple of times through the years, I cannot get an stain to adhere.
I plan to sand again this spring, but my question is should I put down a coat of primer first, such as Rust-Oleum, and then the stain? Thanks. Dave
No, a primer will not help. The only way to fix is to fully sand it off.
I will be sanding my (pressure treated) deck with a belt sander, with 60 grit sandpaper. Should I get the ceramic sandpaper, or the aluminum oxide sandpaper?
Not sure if it matters, to be honest.
One possible benefit is that ceramic (supposedly) lasts 3 – 5 times longer than aluminum oxide (according to this site, anyway):
Ceramic belts costs between 2 – 3 times more than aluminum oxide.
So if the claims are true, then the cost is at least break-even, so at minimum, you save time (changing the belt).
Does anyone have any experience with ceramic paper? Does it do as good a job as aluminum oxide, on wood?
Thanks. Good site, appreciate your advice.
Sorry but no experience. I am sure it works fine as sandpaper is designed for wood in general.
I’m confused!! Everything I’ve read says to sand last before applying the stain. Here, however, you say “the next step [after sanding is to clean the wood thoroughly.” Does it matter whether I sand last before applying the stain (in my case I’m using a solid stain PPG/Sikkens)? My concern is if the wood gets wet after sanding that the stain will not adhere as well. Please clarify!
Clean and brighten the wood after the sanding is done. It opens the pores up.
THANKS!
Hi, I bought Defy Stripper, Brightener and Stain. My intention was to strip the deck but, instead, I ended up sanding the deck down to the wood. Should I still use the stripper and then brighten or should I use some Thompson Deck Wash ( I did not buy Defy Cleaner) that I have had and then brighten? Thanks
Do not use the Thompsons. If you use the Stripper, dilute it by 1 part stripper to 3 parts water.
Can you say why to not use the deck wash? What about their sealer?
Thompsons is a poor prep product that does more damage than good.
Hello I have to sand off 7 year old Buhr Deck over from my pressure treated Deck. My question is do I need to be concerned with solid stain between the deck boards the sander cannot penetrate?
If covering with a new solid stain then no.
I am matching the color currently applied, using TWP 100 series that was recommended by DSH. With that said, do I need to be concerned what remains between the seams? The gap is about 1/8″
The TWP will not cover the solid stain in the cracks so yes, it will show through and not look that good.
Need to strip the deck paint off my deck so I can refinish with an oil based stain. Deck surface has never been stained so the wood flooring should accept a stain after prepared. Which method is best… sanding or stripping? What is recommended for this paint (not stain) in a stripping situation?
This cannot be stripped. You will have to power sand this to remove it.
I need to remove a solid stain same process I assume 60 grit on my belt sander. Im in a dry climate 5000 ft in Colorado… no mold or power washing needed on my practice spot. I dont believe it will need it. Also building an enclosed patio for jacuzzi have good cross ventelation and fans and plants to pull humidity down…recommendations for interior decking and wall material poly over cedar ?? PAINTING the ceiling too outdoor water resistant paint heavy coats? Thanks good video.
Start with 60 grit and then 80 grit. Stay with cedar wood for the new enclosure. It will work great and have that natural wood appearance. You do not need a paint for the interior ceiling. Go with a natural stain looking semi-transparent stain. It will last forever since it is an enclosed ceiling.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
It’s me again😄 I stripped and brightened my cedar deck. It is drying now. Some places on some of the boards are fuzzy. Can I just spot sand with some 60 sand paper or must I sand the whole thing? If I can spot sand, would I need to brighten again?
You would have to sand all evenly so the stain would take evenly. Brighten and rinse well after.
I installed a new 10×12 deck about a month ago. Does it need to be sanded? I can’t find anything that said otherwise. Other than preservation of the wood, I’m also concerned about areas where someone can accidentally stab themselves with a piece of wood from a board. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am totally new to this.
You do not need to sand for prep. Clean and brighten. See here for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thank you for all the suggestions and help. I’m just getting confused based on different comments if I should or should not sand my deck prior to it’s first staining?
It is a new cedar deck that was installed 3+ months ago. I plan on using RAD and will be prepping with their cleaner and brightener.
Thank you for your help!
No reason to sand new wood unless you get some furring from heavy oxidation removal. You should not have this issue since the wood is only 3 months old.
Just finishing up sanding my cedar deck, and have purchased the RAD cleaner, brightener, and stain. However, the weather has turned cold and rainy much earlier than usual. Is it better try try to sneak in the staining on a dry day or wait until the Spring?
You talk about letting a new deck “season”, is that the case with a sanded deck as well? Would this be another reason to push of staining until the Spring?
You can wait or do it now if the weather cooperates. Typically just one coat for sanded wood.
Sounds good. With the wet on wet application does it matter if it has been raining recently and the wood has been absorbing a lot of water? Or does it just need to be not raining on the day you stain?
Let it dry for a day after heavy rain.
My deck was stained about 3 years ago with a Behr semi-transparent. I have sanded all the railings and spindles down to the bare wood. Next I will strip, sand and brighten the floor. Being that everything will be down to bare wood, should I use one or two coats of Defy semi-transparent stain? Also, do I need to apply brightener to railings and spindles?
Yes, you have to brighten the wood. Use two coats applied wet on wet.
I’ve read great care should be taken to prevent SANDED wood from moisture prior to stain application. Articles site moisture shrinks and/or closes pores and will require re-sanding to re-open pores. However, this article suggests brightening AFTER staining. Shouldn’t pores be open wide after sanding already? If a brightener is necessary, wouldn’t it be better timed BEFORE sanding and allow the 60-80 grit sanding process to open pores?
Sorry, I misstated in my earlier question. This article suggests brightening AFTER sanding.
No, sanding closes the pores while a brightener will open it up. Do it after the sanding.
We’re only sanding with 60-80 grit. Does that also close pores? If so, is it okay to wait a few days to brighten? Will moisture between brightening and staining close pores? Our deck is over 1,500 sq ft with complicated metal balusters, so it’s not a one day job. Are we safe to work on sanding over a few days to a week, with possible rain and then drying time between project days? We’d the brighten once all sanding is complete. Then wait 2-3 days to dry for staining.
All sanding can close the pores. Yes, you can wait to brighten for a few days or longer after the sanding is all done.
We plan to vacuum sawdust, then apply Sherwin Williams Revive (brightener), giving a light rinse with the pressure washer (wide fan far away). Is this sufficient, or should we use a “deck cleaner” prior to brightening?
Use the deck cleaner as well will help.
Running out of steam. Do I pay a pro the $525 he wants to sand this or rent a sander and what should I rent? This is three layers of semi solid.
Have someone do it as it is a lot of work.
Have a 4 yr old cedar deck that I previously stained with Behr Premium 3 times. As you say, the stuff is terrible and has peeled more and more each year. I’m done with the Behr and am planning on starting over. I’m not a fan of chemicals so was planning on sanding. Do I need to use a cleaner after sanding? Can I just pressure wash and stain?
You seem to recommend the Defy and Restore-A-Deck, would you prefer either for a cedar deck that gets a lot of shade in the rainy climate of Eugene, OR? When I do stain do I need to worry much about night time condensation effecting how the stain takes? It has started to get colder with more dew over night as we move into the fall. Thanks for the advice
Clean and brighten after the sanding for best results. condensation should not have any effect.
Thanks, any advice on which stain for a deck that gets a lot of shade and moisture?
The RAD or Defy would be the best options.
Thanks, ordered up the RAD products today. One more question: I was reading your post about the wet-on -wet application. Does this method work on a newly sanded deck, or does a sanded deck only absorb 1coat like a newly laid deck?
If you sanded the deck, just apply one coat.
Thanks
I have a 4 year old cedar deck never stained before and I pressure washed and used a cleaner/brightener and pressure washed again. Do I really need to sand it down. Looks in good condition?
You can stain it after but we would not suggest Behr stain. Has very bad results: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
I powerwashed newer deck (2 years old cedar) with brightener/cleaner. Has never been touched with anything, is nice and clean and smooth. Do I really need to sand and clean again before applying semi-transparent stain?
No need to sand. Go ahead and stain.
I’m in the same situation. 4 year old cedar deck with no stain or anything applied to it before. Using pressure washer and a brightener/Cleaner from behr. What your saying is I can stain it now? Looks good after cleaner/brightener.
You can stain it after but we would not suggest Behr stain. Has very bad results: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
Any tips on how to remove screws that are exposed above the deck surface prior to sanding?
Can you screw them in deeper to counter sink them?
I tried that already. These screws have been in there 20 years!
cut the heads off will a dremel, then add new screws beside.
I see some stains that are oil acrylic, that seems to be an oxymoron, I believe it was floods and pittsburg stains, is that any good
Oil acrylic is still water based. Just a play on words.
Those brands do not work well.
if there is that on the railing how should I clean to use oil
how should I clean the deck if it was used and I want to use oil based stain
Strip and brighten. Sand if needed to remove all.
Duckback superdeck 9600 solid (bought by sherwin williams) is absolutely horrible.
I have just finished sanding my deck awaiting delivery of my TWP stain and I want to prep it. My deck is only a year old down to the natural cedar wood with no dirt, no gray, and no mold. Can I skip the cleaning step (since it seems to be primarily “used to lift dirt and unsightly mildew which accumulates over time”) and go right to the wood brightener step? Or do you still recommend cleaning with a deck cleaner and why is this still important? Thank you for your time and experience
Clean and brighten is best. The cleaning will help remove the sand dust, allowing to stain to soak in better.
Great, thank you so much! Just ordered the RAD 2-step clean and brightening kit