We have been getting great feedback here at www.deckstainhelp.com from all of the consumers who have been looking for better stain alternatives for their deck restoration. Our most popular article, “What is the Best Deck Stain” has quickly become the number one article on the web for asking questions and getting answers on restoring your exterior wood and deck.
In this article we are going to cover what actually is a “Deck Stain”. We will compare the many different types of decking stain options available and what are the positives and negatives of each.
Deck Stains
Deck stains are used to protect and preserve your exterior wood. They offer UV protection, water repellency, mold and mildew resistance, etc. Deck coatings come in many different types of opacity and bases. Many deck stain brands can be restricted in certain states, cities and counties due the VOC laws.
Deck staining can be a “chore” for residential homeowners and unfortunately walking into you local store may produce some of the worst options available. Not all deck stains are created equal and there is not a perfect stain type or brand that will out perform all the others.
Water-Based Deck Stains
Water based deck stain have come on rapidly in the last 4 years. The main reason for the vast amount of water based stains on the market today is related to changes in VOC laws across the country. Many states have adopted or soon will adopt lower VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) regulations. This has prompted stain manufacturers to increase production of water soluble decking stains. In our opinion, water-based deck stain are “thin” paints with varying amount of acrylic and pigment.
Pros: Water cleanup, less chance of mold or mildew growth. Environmentally friendly.
Cons: Do not penetrate like an oil-base can. Slightly harder to apply as they dry quicker. Can be prone to peeling and wearing. *Defy Stains are the only exception that we have tested. They penetrate the best of all water based stains, nearly as well as an oil.
Oil based Deck Stains
Oil based decking stains have been around for 20-30 years and have been traditionally what all stain manufacturers produce. Oil based stains are typically made up of natural and synthetic oils. Many contain oils such as: Linseed Oil, Paraffin Oil, Tung Oil, Rosewood Oil, Etc.
Pros: Excellent penetration into wood. An oil molecule is smaller in size then a water molecule. Better a deck stain can penetrate, the better the performance. Easier to apply. More natural looking
Cons: Stronger odors, longer drying and curing time. Some oils can promote the growth of mildew. Some oil-based stains will darken in color over time.
Solid Decking Stains (Opaque)
Solid deck stains look like paints. They cover the wood so you will not see the wood grain anymore. Once you apply a solid decking stain there is little chance you will ever be able to go back to a transparent stain. Solid stains come in both oil and water based versions.
Pros: Excellent UV protection.
Cons: Films on top of the wood and do not penetrate well. Prone to peeling. Looks like a paint. Harder to apply. Cannot be removed with a deck stain stripper effectively.
Semi-Solid Stains
The Semi-Solid Deck Stain will only show a small amount of wood grain as they contain a high amount of pigment. They are offered by a limited amount of manufacturers. Semi-solids can be both water-based and oil-based.
Pros: Very good UV protection
Cons: Only a small amount of wood grain will show. Oil-based semi-solid versions will penetrate and perform much better the water-based versions.
Semi-Transparent Stains
Semi-transparent stains contain pigment that highlights the natural grain while sealing the surface. The semi-transparent wood and decking stain is our favorite. Both water and oil-based are available.
Pros: Average to better then average UV protection. Shows natural grain. Very good penetration. In most scenarios can be cleaned and re-coated easily. Can be removed with a deck stain stripper.
Cons: Most water-based versions perform poorly compared to the oils. Many states with the Low VOC laws have a limited amount of quality oil based stains available. May need to buy online if in a Low VOC area.
Transparent Wood stains
Transparent deck coatings look the most natural as they contain minimal pigment. Average life of a transparent decking stain is about 1 year. Mostly oil-based only are available.
Pros: Very easy to apply and reapply as needed. Natural looking.
Cons: Below average UV protection. Typically need to be re-coated annually.
Clear Wood Deck Finishes
Clear Deck Finishes offer little to no UV protection and will gray quickly. Typically used as sealers.
Pros: Does not change the appearance. Extremely easy to apply.
Cons: Grays and oxidizes in months.
Non Drying Oil vs Drying Oil- Based Stains
Drying oils are “curing” oils. This means that they actually dry on top of or just below the surface. They will help “seal” the wood as well. Non-drying oils are the opposite. They never actually dry but rather dive deep into the wood to help condition the cells of the wood. Paraffin oil (not wax) is the most common.
Are Deck Finishes, Stains, Sealers, or Both?
This question can be confusing to homeowners. In general all deck stains are sealers as well as they will help prevent water absorption. Deck sealers typically are not stains as they do not have any pigment. Some though may have a very light tint.
Low VOC Stains and States:
Currently there are 17 States that restrict Decking Stains and Coatings. These states require a lower amount of Volatile Organic Compounds to be released into the air. This mainly affects oil-based coatings. By lowering the amount of “solvents” that can evaporate into the ozone you need to increase the amount of “solids”. This can cause issues with oil-based stains as they may have drying and curing problems. There are still a few good oil-based stains available in Low VOC States but not as readily available at your local stores. You may need to go on the Internet to find them and have them shipped. A couple of examples would be TWP 1500 Series and Armstrong Clark Wood Stains.
Current Low VOC States:
California, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Vermont, Delaware, District of Columbia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Northern VA, Pennsylvania, Arizona, Ohio, Illinois, Indiana.
DeckStainHelp.com Suggestions:
With all of these different types of products we prefer the semi-transparent products as they allow the wood grain to show. They offer better then average UV protection and can be easier to reapply in the future. Penetration is better for oil-based versions over the water-based versions. The one exception is the water based Defy Stains.
*All decking stains will eventually fail that is why you want a deck stain that is easy to work with down the road.
Can I apply an oil-based semi-transparent stain/sealer to a deck that was previously treated with 'Deckscape semi-transparent water-based stain/sealer?
Val, that would not be a good idea. Best to remove the SW Deckscapes.
can i apply a 2nd coat olympic maximum stain sealant
Joe Allen, I am not sure. Best to ask them directly as they have changed formulas since we tested last.
I have a large Western Red Cedar deck exposed to the Western sun for at least one half of the time. The deck is 25 years old but it was constructed with CLEAR WRC and I would like to preserve its beauty. I don't know how it has been chemically abused in the past so I have decided to remove all the boards, plane and join them and then reconstruct the deck. First ?, Does newly planed 25 year old cedar react the same as new cedar? 2nd? We are located in the high desert of Central Oregon with 300 days of sunshine but rain and snow too. Temps can fluctuate 40+/- degrees in 24 hours. Do you have a recommendation for deck treatment. Thanks!
Dennis, yes it will be similar to new wood. I would look at the TWP 1500. POSt some picture in the forum if you have time. Clear cedar will look great when stained!
Thank you and I will post some pictures. I'm finding black stains around screw holes, will Oxallic acid remove this or what do you Rx? As I'm planning the cedar I'm trying to at 1 3/8 inches or better, but some are closer to 11/4 inches and of course I'm going to blend them in or arrange them so that they are smooth and not a hazard. What do you consider the minimum safe thickness over a 24" span with a minimum lengthe of 4'? Thanks again
Dennis, The black stains are rust from the nails. Typically an acid such as Oxalic will remove it if it is not too bad. Not sure on the other questions about the span and length.
Can I put oil-based solid stain over acrylic solid stain? Do I need to use a deck cleaner with power washing?
Jeanneane, you cannot put a oil base stain on top of a solid stain.
Nel
I've been trying to find a sight that has the TWP 1500 stain colors. Can you help me please. I know that there are 10 different colors but can't even find one. Also can seem to find a dealer that I could go to. I live in western Ontario so
crossing the border would not be a problem.
Thanks for you assistance.-
I would go to the manufacturers site. There is a link at the bottom of the TWP 1500 Reviews
We added on to our wood deck. The original deck had an oil based paint. We need to repaint the entire deck now. Can we put a semi-transparent oil stain on the whole deck?
Gloria, no you cannot put a semi-transparent decking stain on top of a solid paint.
How do i get certain brands of solid oil based stains in a low VOC state? and why can i still buy oil primers and other certain brands of solid oil based stains in all the stores? Also do you think the standards will become so tight they will do away with all oil based products? I have been painting for 16 years and have noticed a steep decline in the effectiveness of all decking products. The labels used to say to apply every 2-5 years, now they say to apply yearly or "seasonally" depending on wear and exposure. Should i just start to suggest to my customers that they go with permanent solutions like composite decking (i.e. TREX, etc.) to save me bigger headaches in decking products later down the road? Any thoughts on the matter?
PainterGuy, It is a VOC limit issue for architectural coatings that limits certain brands in certain states. I doubt oil based products will just go away. There are still great choices for Low VOC states. Armstrong Clark and TWP 1500 Series.
I recently used Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener and then applied Defy Extreme Cedar Tone Stain to redo my 22-year old deck that had been poorly maintained and had peeling, cracking stain left from a previous application. I am very pleased with the results. At first I did not like the Cedar Tone stain color but, now that it's done and the stain has dried, I really like look.
We live just north of Toronto, Ontario. Our PTP deck is 2 years old. It faces north and most of it gets sun. There is some mold/mildew in a small area shaded by a fence. The deck has not been treated with anything as yet and is graying. It will need to be cleaned and brightened. We are looking for a product that will require the least amount of work when it needs to be re-applied in the future. Provided that TWP 1500 can be shipped to Canada (or I will go to Buffalo), should we be applying oil based TWP 1500 or water based Defy Extreme Stain? Is there another product that would be better? Your website is very informative and easy to use. Thank you very much.
Trisha, I would look at Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500. Make sure to prep with a good cleaner and wood brightener.
can I use a Cabot acrylic solid stain over Cabot oil solid stain?
Susan, I am not sure on that one. Might want to ask Cabot on this.
I'm not a professional, just a consumer with 40 years of maintaining my own WRC decks but I can't recommend Cabot Acrylic stains period. Whether over new wood or re-coating over themselves. They just don't adhere well, and break down quickly and unevenly. There is a lot of good info on this site. I came here to see if there was something new out there but it seems good ole semi-transparent oil based is still the way to go.
Have a 25 year old deck sarting to weather . the cabot semi solid stain has worn off in some place and water isn't beading my wife want's a darker colot. Can I use a water based staind / do I need to strip it and bleach it orjust clean it and restain. I come from northern NJ
Richard, I would strip off what you can then maybe look at Armstrong Clark in one of their semi-solid color.
Thanks for this site! I am needing to stain two WRC Adirondack chairs since I don't want greying. My local paint store (not big box) recommended and I would like to use the TWP 1500 series but I don't need a lot. I can't get the TWP in a can smaller than a gallon. Will it keep for several years or should I look for something else in a quart? I'm in west central Missouri (4 full seasons) and the chairs are shaded by the house most of the day on a patio.
Ashley, TWP only comes in gallons and 5 gallons. It should be available to you locally as the manufacturer is out of MO. Not sure if it will keep for several years. If these are new chairs I would use the 100 Series.
I have a new deck and we stained with white water base stain. Can we put clear sealer on top? Oil or water base. It is showing every foot print and don't wash off. any suggestions?
Jill, you cannot out a clear sealer on top of a white stain.
In Maryland the VOC law applies; therefore a tinted water based stain was used two years ago. We want to keep the color. Should we use a clear stain, or tinted, after cleaning the deck surface?
Dan
Dan, are you removing the old stain first? If not then I would stay with the same product you used two years ago.
Can I thin TWP 1500 series?
I used TWP 1516 ("Rustic") on a new Doug fir deck with nice results. Then I did a test sample on the western red cedar fences (after cleaining them), to complete the yard, but it is of course much darker. Too dark I think. Can I thin with paint thinner to get a lighter shade? (I realize all manufacturers say "do not thin," but I thinned a Cabot water-based stain with great aesthetic results, and I'm not much concerned with longevity.)
Thanks very much.
Dan in Cal.
Dan in Cal, I would not thin TWP with paint thinner. It would be better to use the TWP clear to lighten the color.
I live in utah and just bought a new trailer I will use to haul 4 wheelers and use as a utility trailer. It has an untreated wood deck We're not low voc. which brand and product do you recommend for a Semi transparent stain. Are the ones at homedepot- lowes ok or not good quality? Great article!
Rgg, I would stay away from the HD and Lowes brand. Messmers is made in Utah and would work well for your trailer.
I just added a deck to my house. been waiting for the rain to stop to stain it. will 2-3 days of drying time be enough and do i have to sand it 1st (it's pt) Help please and thank you
Sindy, new wood should weather for 1-4 months before staining. You will also need to use a deck cleaner to prep. I would wait until Spring if this was my deck.
I have a 15 year old deck that had transparent oil and sealant put on it about 5 years ago. The deck is in pretty good shape however my wife would like a color stain showing some of the wood features through it. The deck is in a semi-shady area. I'm having a few professional deck maintenance people give me quotes, but I need your feedback.
Mark, Where are you located?
Charlotte, North Carolina
Mark, TWP 100 Series.
What would happen if I put an oil-based semi-transparent stain/sealer on a deck that was previously treated with 'Deckscape' semi-transparent water-based stain/sealer? I don't care anymore how the deck looks. I just want it to be waterproofed before winter and I don't want to strip it because of the adverse environmental effects.
Kathy, that would not work. Either stay with the same stain or strip it off if you want to switch brands.
I used Lowe's Olympic semi-transparent cedartone deck stain.and the color of the deck now is too orange. Is it possible to give it another coat of the same product in a darker color now or must I wait.
Judy, most likely you should wait until Spring then strip off the orange color first before applying a darker color.
Correction to "oil based deck stains, pros": ALL oil molecules are much bigger than water molecules. Not even close. So says my PhD in biochemistry.
I have a deck that has never been sealed or stained, I live in Tampa. Which brand should i use? Also, I wanted a solid stain because I want the deck to have a pigment, but I fear it will be peel and be a hassle later. Should I stick with a semi-transparent stain, if so, how often will I need to reapply?
Margo, a penetrating semi-transparent is the way to go. A good one will last 2-3 years on flooring and longer on the rails. I would look at Armstrong Clark as this will help replenish the oils in your dried out deck that has never been sealed.
I have a deck with oil based sealer on it, 2 years old. Cheap brand of sealer was used. It is in good condition but will need another coat next year. Can I cover it with a better brand of oil or water based sealer?
Hank, For best results you should remove any remnants of the old stain so the new stain can properly function. This can be done with a deck stain remover followed by a wood brightener.
I'm finding black stains around screw holes
That is rust from the screws. Use a wood brightener to help remove.
We have a 25 year old deck in NY state that, until 3 years ago, had been stained with an oil based semi solid. Then the VOC regs came into effect and we had to use a water based solid stain for our last staining. It was a nightmare. Within 2 months, we had severe mildewing, something we had never had before.
We are about to rebuild the deck and would like to explore our materials options with an eye toward something that will last and will resist mildew. Can you suggest different woods or composites (other than the plastic-looking stuff that municipalities use for pedestrian ramps) that we should research? Epe?
Thank you. Great site!
We have a 25 year old wood deck that, until the last staining, had always been stained with an oil based semi solid. The house is in NY state, a low VOC state. The new regs were in force the last time we stained, and we had to go to a solid stain — probably water based. Within 2 months, we had a terrible mildew problem which we had never had before.
We are about to rebuild the entire deck and I would like to make sure that we explore all of our options in terms of materials so that we minimize the chances of having the same problem with mildew after all that time and money. Are there decking materials that we should research (other than the plastic-looking composites that municipalities use for pedestrian ramps)? Would Epe resist mildewing and do you stain that?
Wgbe, woods cannot resist mold or mildew. Mildew can grow on top of any surface at anytime. There really is not a way to stop it. You also need to be careful of “when” you stain. For example, say last year you stained the deck when a tree was pollinating nearby and the pollen happened to stick to the stain as it was drying. This could cause severe mold growth and would not matter which stain brand you used.
What you do not want is a stain that promotes the growth of mildew “in” the stain. Certain stains perform better then others when it comes to preventing mold growth in the stain. Defy Extreme works very well at this and so does TWP as the 100 Series and 1500 Series contain an algaecide that is approved by the EPA.
As for your deck rebuild, IPE is a beautiful wood when stained and it will not rot or decay. It does require annual reapplication of wood stains that are designed to penetrate dense wood such as IPE.
Thanks for the advice. We appreciate it.
If we decide to not replace the entire deck, just the boards that obviously are deteriorating, how do you handle the remaining boards (that will probably mildew come the spring) along side the new ones, which based on what I have seen elsewhere on this site will need to weather? Do you clean the old boards and not restain but leave the new ones to weather for 4 months and then restain all?
Thanks again.
wgbe, we would let the new boards weather then clean, brighten and stain all at the same time.
Thanks. Is 4 months the correct amount of time to weather? Also, if spring is bad for staining due to pollen potentially getting into the stain, should the staining be done in the summer, say August, after the pollen and before the leaves and seeds fall?
wgbe, 4+ months. The longer you wait, the better the stain will penetrate. Spring may have issues as pollen can create mold if it gets stuck in the stain while drying.
A restaurant owner who has decking outside and some covered inside wants to clean and stain it. Very high traffic area, grease spills, drink spills and some chair marks on the floor. Previously stained with Sikkens SRD Natural. What is the best stain to use for the high traffic, grease and drink spills. Wants color to be in the chestnut brown, dark cedar or amber color areas. Would be happy with 1 year wear from the product. Does not want a solid. Thinks they will be to slippery when wet. Any help appreciated.
Keith, this is a difficult situation. Nothing will stop the spills as you would need a filming stain to do that and that would be slippery. I would look for a very deep penetrating stain. This way there will be less chance of wearing or scuffing. The problem is with this high of traffic, the actual wood will be worn down from daily use. If you wear away the wood you will wear away the stain. Armstrong Clark wood stain is what we would use. It can be cleaned and re coated as needed.
I am wanting to use Cabot's Semi solid oil based neutral base stain on my wood shingle roof to help preserve it. I do not want to change it to any particular color, I am just wanting to help preserve and waterproff it. My question is do I have to tint the neutral base or can I use it as is?
Bill,
I do not think that would work but best to ask Cabot directly. I believe the neutral will have some pigment in it.
If the stain is untinted, it will not offer UV protection. I would look for products that are designed for roofs. Her are a couple:
TWP 200 Shake and Shingle
Armstrong Clark Shake Shield
I have a deck that I stained 2 years ago with a HD brand redwood stain. The deck surrounds a pool. It is time to re-stain this year, but I was hoping to get some better results. Can I use an oil based stain over my previous water based? Also, I don't want it to be slippery when wet. Is there stain with grit in it? I own a pressure washer to clean the wood. I am a do it myself-er so, I'd appreciate the steps needed to get a good result. Also, if I don't want to buy the sub-par stains from Lowes or HD, where do I go? I live in Boise.
Melody, no you cannot but an oil based product on top of the water based Behr. You need to strip the old stain off completely then stain with a penetrating wood stain such as TWP or Armstrong Clark. I would contact the manufacturers for possible locations or you can order online from numerous stores.
I need to stain and protect the T1-11 on our new barn. The siding is untreated. Would love to have something semi-transparent that will be easy to work now and when repainting. We are in coastal Georgia.
Gail, TWP or Armstrong Clark. We really like the Armstrong Clark for vertical wood.
I have a Trex 5 year old saddle colored although washed out deck completely surrounding a oval pool,every year lots of black mold. I clean with Olympic deck, wash it then seal it with composite sealer. This deck always gets mold back in 6 to 7 weeks,any suggestions.
My Deck was treated originally with an oil based deck oil, two years ago a water based oil was applied ontop of oil based by accident by the decorator. It looked ok and still does but my dilema now is do I apply an oil or water based product. Removing the product would be imposible.
Paulo, if you do not want to remove then you would want to use water based stain. It would be best though to remove and start over.
I have large new deck built last Sept and am wanting ot water seal it and stain it now. It will have lots of sunlight. I want to keep the natural grain of the wood but protect from mold and turing gray. What is the best product to do this?
thanks from NC
Brneda, You must have a tint in your stain if you want to protect from UV graying. Please read this article Staining New Decks.
I have a new mahogany deck in s New Jersey, installed 3 mo ago and it has a porch roof open on 2 sides. What should I use to give me a natural reddish finish and what cleaner should I use?
Howard, prep with the Restore A Deck cleaner and stain with the Armstrong Clark Hardwood Stain in Mahogany color.
Because of neglect my 20 year old pressure-treated deck in the southeast U.S. was in bad shape. I flipped the deck boards retaining about 60%. The rest I replaced with new boards. Had to fill the nail holes on the flipped boards with wood filler. My question is: Now how do I finish the entire deck so it looks consistent? A transparent stain won't work because the wood filler shows thru.
Fakin, the only thing you can do at this point is use a solid color deck stain. We like Flood\’s brand for this.
I put in a new cedar deck last spring and used Thompsons advance water sealer on it in the fall. It has turned grey and looks terrible after investing so much money in it. Does the water sealer have to be stripped before using TWP 1500 or can I use restore a deck cleaner and brightener and then put TWP on? We live in MA. Deck gets full sun and lots of snow.
Marie, it probably can just be cleaned and brightened if the Thompson\’s is not active anymore. Hard to say for sure without seeing it.
We are planning on refinishing our deck next month which gets intense sun and weather. We live at 7500′ elev. in the foothills outside of Denver, CO. The last time we refinished in 2002, we sanded the whole deck and used Sikkens Cetol SRD. The finish is now mostly completely gone, worn and faded, but never peeled. We plan on sanding again this time. Do you have recommendations on prep and what finish to use this time?
Thanks!
Leslie, after the sadning you should use a deck cleaner and a wood brightener to prep the wood. this will allow the stain to penetrate into the wood better. Might want to look at the TWP or Armstrong Stain.
Some further information on our deck for recommendations: The deck is redwood, and the Sikkens only lasted a few years before looking old and worn. Also the Sikkens had an uneven finish afterwards.
We have a deck that was built in stages at different times with different pressure treated woods and different stains. Most of the wood was in decent shape but to make it consistent, it was recommended that we use a solid color decks stain. It covered all the different stains and woods and improved the look of the deck, but I wish it would look a little more like wood grain. If I wiped a darker semi transparent over the solid, would it highlight the wood grain, like a faux finish?
DML, you cannot do that. It will not work.
We have a first generation Correct Deck built in 2005. Sadly, this was not the product as described. The deck has faded terribly. We live in the NE and the deck faces east with almost constant exposure to sunlight. We did have a shipment of a few pieces of 2nd generation, so there is a stripe on the edge of the deck edge. That didn't fade so it's noticeable.
The deck surface has held up. We sweep it regularly and use Corte Clean with good results against the mold, but it does come back yearly. It is not a problem to clean it yearly to help with mold growth.
Our concern is what can we do to bring back the original mahogany color? We don't want to seal in the mold nor do we want to paint the surface. Is there any type of stain that would be close to the original color, or even a neutral/natural color? When it gets wet from rain, it looks great… Then it dries. We would like to restore the color as close as possible, but haven't found anyone with this experience.
Steve, not sure what you can use or if it is possible to restore the faded color. Have you contacted the manufacturer for help?
Correct Deck is no longer in business. Company was bought by GAF and then became Duralife Siesta. That product is still manufactured as far as I can tell. To date, I have tried to contact the company without success.
I have done research online and have seen where homeowners with similar fading Correct Deck problems have stained their deck. I am unsure of results a few years later. We are so frustrated with how the deck currently looks considering the cost of a composite deck.
I was just looking to see if anyone had any experience with this issue. I will continue to contact the company for any help they might be able to give.
I just had my deck power washed and sanded. I am not sure what was on the deck previously; oil or stain. Can I use an oil base.
Diane, if free of other coatings then you can use an oil based stain.
Our deck was cleaned and sanded and stained with oil based semi transparent Olympic stain last year. Can I now do over with a similar water based stain to darken the colour?
Location is Toronto.
Jim, No you cannot add a water based stain on top of an oil based stain.
I have a six year old deck that we just power washed last week. The previous owners used Flood CWF-UV Clear Wood Finish, Cedar Tone. I think it has been several years since the finish was last applied. On some areas of the deck, longer than that it looks like. I have about 8 gallons of this finish that were left with the house when we purchased it. Should I go back with the same material or can I use a different material, such as a Defy or Clark Armstrong product? I'm not sure if the Flood finish is a particularly highly rated, long lasting product.
Darwin, I am not sure the shelf life on the CWF is 8 years so it is probably bad. I would switch to something like Armstrong Clark.
Hi- We are looking to stain our 6 y/o composite deck. Can you recommend the best product? It has not mildewed, only faded.
Shelly, we do not have much experience with composite deck stains. Sorry.
I build a deck from pressure treated wood last summer. need to stain it this summer. I'm in Toronto, Ontario. Deck is only 6 inches off the ground. Shaded by a huge tree that drops ripe cherries all summer. I need something to prevent mold growth, protect from cherries, and mask the new cherry stains that will be added daily in the summer. What do you recommend?
Jayson, acids from the cherries will damage the wood stain and leave red/purple spots. There is nothing you can do to prevent this.
I just recently built a new deck out of construction common redwood and sealed it using Thompsons Transparent Sealer. 3 days after that I my dog got into a little bit of mud and had tracked it on the deck. I have washed it off but there are still prints that will not seem to come out. What do I need to do to resolve this issue?
Josh, strip the coating off, let the wood weather properly for 3-6 months, then stain with a quality penetrating deck stain.
Just powerwashed our 10-year-old Western Pennsylvania deck. We have used semi-transparent waterproofing stain on it in the past and the wood is definitely due for a new coat of something. We want to waterproof and stain with our application. Are all deck "stains" considered to be waterproofing-type agents such as Thompson's Water Seal? Can you please suggest brands that do such?
Danny, quality deck stains should shed water not bead water. The beading is a \”myth\” that Thompson\’s created. You want the wood the be able to breathe and not 100% seal the surface. Quality deck stains will shed water not bead. Almost all stains will do this.
I have a PT deck, never stained. Some mildew spots are present. Should I wash then use brightener then sand? Do I need to wash and brighten if I sand?
Chron, use a deck cleaner followed by a wood brightener for the prep. If you sand you should still prep with the cleaner and brightener.
Just sanded off peeling solid color oil based stain and want to apply oil semi-transparent. However not all the solid color came off, and water still beads somewhat on those areas. Look is rustic and nice, but will there be peeling problems if I use semi-transparent now? Should I try chemical stripper, cleaning, brightening, and power washing first? (I really don't want to use solid again!)
Sheryl, best to remove as much as possible of the solid. Strip, sand, then brighten. If you cannot get it all off you might want to consider a semi-solid.