This post was updated on May 12, 2024
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck staining and prep. My reviews and help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing, all designed to present you with the top product choices. See here for more info about me
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Hi,
I have used the information on your site to tackle staining a deck that is half old, unknown stain and have untreated pressure treated wood that’s 3 years old. We live in Vermont and I decided to use Restore A Deck because our drying windows are not dependable. With these products, I stripped the old stain from half the deck, cleaned the other half, brightened the whole thing, and rinsed throughly with a power washer. I damaged the wood a bit and had to sand off the white furiness (that’s not even a word 😀). I handed sanded the deck with a pole using 50 grit, finishing with 80. I used a belt sander on top of the rails. Then used semitransparent cedar for stain.
Now I have to figure out how to address the cedar deck and stairs that have Penofin Penetrating Oil Finish on them. The deck was not cleaned and brightened before applying. Our goal was to just preserve the cedar deck. We didn’t realize that a sealer would turn the cedar gray without UV protection. The application was not done uniformly and the deck looks terrible. When it rains heavily we get clay runoff from the bank and it does not rinse off.
I do not really mind the cedar graying, as that is what it naturally does. However, I want the deck to look better with the least amount of maintenance, since we have so much deck and it’s such a prominent part of our camp.
Is a semitransparent stain the best option for maintenance?
If so, I am not inclined to use the cedar color on the deck surrounding the camp, because I’m not crazy about the color. However, once the appropriate prep work is done for a switch to semitransparent stain, maintaining a different color from the lower deck should not be difficult, correct?
If I go to semitransparent, would I do the stripping and brightening to clear the sealer that’s on there now?
Here are pictures of the deck I stained and the deck that needs work. Thanks for your advice.
No matter what, you should strip and brighten for prep to remove the old Penofin. It is an easy strip. As for the coating, yes a semi-transparent stain would be best for this:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Do I need to wait for the weather to be optimal for all 3 steps to be taken without rain? Is it possible to strip and brighten and then leave the deck exposed to weather? Is this possible if I clean and/or brighten just before staining? If the deck can be exposed to rain between steps, is there a time limit for it to be left before the final stain step is taken?
You strip and brighen for prep and then stain within 2 weeks of the prep. Rain in between does not harm anything.
I stained the deck in the picture on September 16th. I only had enough stain for a light second coat on the deck. I think the old part of the deck could use a light third coat. Can I do that directly over the current stain when I receive more, or do I need to clean and brighten first?
Thanks for your continued support with taking the time to answer my questions!
You cannot just keep adding coats, as over-applying leads to premature stain failure.
Leave it alone for now. If you want, you can clean it and lightly recoat it next year.
I used “EZ Strip” to strip the multiple coats of unknown type of paint off an older cedar deck (painted the stripper on, dwell time, then pressure washed it off). The instructions said to remove it with water and to “neutralize it with water”. So to remove any residual solvent, I then pressure washed each board, until the water ran clear from that board. However, I noticed that if I ran the pressure washer over that same board a couple of minutes later, more solvent appeared and so I would again pressure wash that board until the water ran clear. Unfortunately, the solvent continues to appear when I respray the boards. So I’m not sure what to do next? Do I need to used a wood cleaner / brightener to somehow neutralize that solvent? Or just keep pressure washing? I’m worried if there is residual stripper remaining in that old porous wood, my stain won’t penetrate properly. Thanks!
FYI: I’m from Canada (British Columbia), my deck is beside a fast flowing creek, and is full sun for a couple hours a day, but otherwise mostly shade.
I would not worry about it. Just rinse when done stripping.
I have a deck at the house that’s in the sun most of the day, I used a semi transparent stain/ sealer from Pittsburg Paint but it only lasted a year before fading away, I also have a deck at the pool that the same thing happened and it gets pool water with chemicals on it,any suggestions on redoing these 2 and what to use. Thank you
Add some pics in comments, please.
Sorry about the pictures,it’s raining here right now. If you need ones when it dries I can send them once it dries up. Thank you
Scott this is the stain/ sealer I used
Dry pics when you can. This product can be challenging to remove as it is a filming acrylic stain.
I will get some dry picture sent to you
Scott here are 2 pics of the deck thats dry now,the pool deck looks the same
For prep, you will need to remove the old stain fully. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener kits with both additives:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
For stain, try TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains. Unfortunately, no stain will be immune to chlorine from pool water.
Thank you very much
Do you know anything about the product: Liquid Rubber, for a pool deck, it says it’s good for 10 years?
No, never heard of it. BTW, nothing will last 10 years on a deck. Marketing gimmick.
Oil or water based stains for pressure treated wood.
Either as long as they are fully penetrating:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
5 year old PT pine deck, never stained. It is about 20 yards from our lake. Have you had anyone have aquatic animal/fish problems after using restore a deck? TWP tech did say the cleaner/brightener is “harmful to aquatic animal”, according to the specs. I can’t believe the small amount that might be washed into the water would be enough to hurt anything. My family does not want to use it, but will use a dilute bleach, with sanding. I’ve read that bleach isn’t good to use, and it can do the same to the fish. Comments?
The RAD Cleaner and Brightener should not harm any fish in the water.
2 year old deck, pine. Eastern NC. Was told to wait until following spring to stain. Original staining job was done by a local contractor using Ready Seal Exterior Wood Stain, Pecan. Dried streaky and uneven. Wore quickly and unevenly. Would like to go darker next go around.
Can you confirm what Restore A Deck products to use?
Should I wait until Spring? We’ll be only averaging highs in the 50s soon.
THANKS!
Eric
Strip and brighten for prep. No need for the RAD Stripper Additives. Stain with the RAD semi-transparent stain after the prep. Spring is good.
I have a brand new deck. What do I do next? When do I stain? What stain is best? Thanks for your help!
See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Sorry, I meant to say the brightener was Sherwin Williams Super Deck “Revive”. (In my comment posted 15 minutes ago)
I already cleaned and brightened our deck using Sherwin Williams cleaner (SuperDeck Stain & Sealer Remover) and brightener (SuperDeck Stain & Sealer Remover). I used a pressure washer to rinse these products. I was now going to sand using 60-80 grit orbital sander, however, in reading your website it seems I should have sanded before the brightener. I really would rather not have to repeat the brightener step after sanding. Is it possible to just lightly sand any visible splinters/loose shards and move directly to staining? I was going to use either TWP semitransparent or Armstrong-Clark semitransparent. Previous product was Sherwin Williams semitransparent Super Deck. It’s an older deck (~7 yrs), pressure treated wood. Thanks so much for this website and your help!
If you power sand, you will need to redo the brightener step. Light hand sand and you should be okay.
My parents have installed beadboard ceilings on their porches. They are wanting it to stay the natural wood color. Should these be sealed with a clear sealer or just leave it as it is since it will not be directly exposed to rain or sun?
Clear sealer like TWP in the 1500 Clear.
Just spent 2 solid days sanding a 10 year old generic pressure treated lumber deck, and power washing after replacing a few rotted board sections. I let it sit a 2-3 years to make sure I could get all the pigmented “stain” off that I purchased at a big box store. I told my wife, “Never again” will I “stain” a deck with that pigmented crap that just peels up every few years. My deck is about 10-11 years old, (720 sq. ft.), hoping to get another 10 out if it. Don’t want to spend a fortune, as it may only last another 10 years (if that). What would you recommend for an “oil” stain with slight pigmentation. I was think about Penofin, but they recommend resealing quite often. Thanks
Kris
Livonia, NY
Penofin has issues turning black. Look at TWP 1500 Series or Restore a Deck Stains.
3 or 4 years ago (cant remember) I used the Restore-A-Deck cleaner and brighter on my 2-yr old unstained treated pine deck, then applied 2 coats of TWP 1500. Now it appears to not have any water repellant properties. It’s in full sun about 60% of day. Want to reorder TWP 1500. Was going to power wash. Should I use a cleaner or stripper product beforehand, or will TWP over TWP be ok to not strip? Also, is the 3-4 year timeline typical for needing retreatment for TWP?
Yes, you have to redo every few years. Strip and brighten for prep.
Also, we want the solid stain to match the trim on the house which is sw pure white. Can I get a solid stain that you recommend in that color ?
See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
Use RAD Solid Stains in White and the TWP 100 or 1500 Series.
A 6 month old deck and railing made from pressure treated pine. We want to do a 2 tone deck and railing. What solid stain would you recommend for the railing?
Also, we are struggling between Twp 100 and Woodrich oil for floors. Recommendations?
Thank you
Kdonehoo
I’m wondering what should be the next step for my deck and what type of wood I have? (Pressure treated?)
I pressure washed with a 1600 psi sprayer as well as sanded some of the deck. The pressure washed section stayed grey while the sanded section turned a yellowish color.
Should I sand the rest of the deck and then I’m thinking of applying an Armstrong stain? I used a 40 grit sander which felt smooth when I ran my hand across it, do I need to go higher grit?
What should be the criteria to selecting the color?
Can I put anything from a transparent to a semi solid on this deck?
I like the appeal of the darker semi solid colors for more UV protection as well as greater concealment of imperfections but as the deck gets quite a bit of sun, the semi solid darker colors may get too hot?
To get it even it would be best to sand it all with the 40 grit. When done, brighten all wood and give it a good pressure wash rinse. The AC semi-solid will give the best UV protection in the AC brand.
Hello again..meant to mention I have been using Defy products on my PT deck over the past 5 years per your recommendation. Pleased with results. Anne
Hi Scott. Just had an outdoor table top made using Cypress lumber. What, if anything, would you recommend to seal/finish it. Prefer natural look. Many thanks. Anne
Using the Defy Extreme would work very well.
Thank you, that’s what I was wondering. So then it’s Probably going to be a “TWP” product. Which series would you recommend? Or do you have another brand that you would recommend? I’m ready to go out and buy and get going on this deck. Thank so much for your quick response! This is an EXCELLENT web site!
Where do you live? That may determine what you can use.
North East Ohio, would you be interested in coming down here and doing a deck? 😎
You cannot afford me 🙂
I have to agree with everybody! This site is Outstanding! My question is, I’m about ready to stain some existing and new wood portions of the deck that goes around my house. I like the things you have said about the “TWP” products (solid colors, oil type), what do you think of “One Step” besides the crazy price? I used it once on an old dock, seem to be holding up, but I’m open to trying a different product, such as the”TWP”. What are your thoughts?
Do you mean One Time? Over priced and not that good. It can also have issues with curing properly.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/one-time-wood-deck-stain-review/
This site is amazing and wished I had done the level of research provided by this site before I applied Thompson weather seal to my full sun deck. Totally failed after just one year and I had to remove it using Restore-A-Deck stripper and brightener. In any case, living in Canada, I see you outlined 4 products: Restore-A-Deck, TWP 200, Armstrong, and Defy. The deck get full sun the entire day. Which product would you recommend in my case?
Also, I don’t think you have reviewed decking oils. One in particular is Thinking the Bangkirai Natural Shade color. Totally understandable if you don’t have an opinion on this product but what do you think about decking oils vs stains in general? Especially given my full sun exposure. This product claims to have have UV protection “Ultimate protection for exterior wood with factor 12 UV filters to protect against the greying effects of UV damage.”
Also, should I shove the snow off during the winter?
Thanks
Try the TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains. No need to remove snow. Never heard of the other brand.
I so appreciate your response. Just wondering, if I opt not to use the semi-solid stain, which of the other TWP stains would be next best? I can’t decide if I want the solid stain look. I don’t want to go against your recommendation, but I would still like options. Thanks again!
TWP 1500 Series.
Thank you for your additional information. You have been so very helpful.
Hi!
I have an 8 year old construction heart redwood deck that was last stained in 2019 with Messmer’s Natural UV Plus Transparent stain. I know that Messmer’s is manufactured in Utah so I thought it would work well for me, although I’m not so sure I couldn’t find something better. It has held up fairly well, but I want something that might do a little better in my harsh Utah environment, cold snowy winters and hot dry summers. The deck is on the north side of my home so it has both sun and shade exposure. I have had no issues with mold. The deck itself is in good condition, although I should have re-stained last year.
I am thinking that TWP might be a good stain for the deck, but I’m not sure if the 100 series or the 1500 series? I’m thinking a water-based stain would not hold up as well, am I correct? Which stain would be the best for my area?
I realize I will need to strip/clean my deck, what recommendations do you have for products to do that?
My deck is around 400 sq ft with 3 steps skirting the deck on 2 sides. How much stain and cleaner would you recommend? With the Messmer’s, 4 years ago I used 2 gal. I’m not sure how the deck will absorb stain this go around.
I’m so glad there is a forum like this. It is so very helpful for rookies.
Thank you so much.
Strip and brighten for prep using Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. One kit should be enough. Look at the TWP semi-solid colors for your best option of staining. About 3-4 gallons.
Thank you for your response. I am confused by the difference of a semi-solid and semi-transparent stain, the semi-solid seems like it would be more like paint, which I don’t want. I would like the deck to be more natural. Would the semi-solid provide that effect? Thanks again!
Semi-solid colors have more opacity than a semi-transparent stain but still show the wood grain. They do not fully make the wood like a solid color deck stain or paint.
Hello,
What is the best stain, preferably not a solid color, for a floating dock?
Also, what is the best prep method for a 2 year old dock where there is no access to power or water (ie pressure washer/hose) except for the water from the lake?
Thank you and God Bless!
If you have a sprinkler pump from the lake, hook up your pressure washer there. Use a deck cleaner and wood brightener for prep. Use Restore A Deck Prep products and their semi-transparent stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
Thank you Scott! I have not looked into this stain. The recommendations I had received so far were solid stain from Cabot. Sherman Williams Deck stain, which utterly failed with flaking on my back deck, and TWP 100, 200, or 1,500 series. I’ve been over with options to say the least! I do not have a sprinkler pump but can research one.
I was told by the dock builder that Cabot Natural was applied to the walkway when installed. But they cannot confirm their crew applied it to the dock itself. Do I need to use a product in addition to what you listed above? I’ll attach pictures. Thank you again and God Bless!
TWP stains would also be a top choice. Just use a cleaner and brightener for the dock. No need to strip it as there is not any stain on it.
That is awesome! I am amazed by the help I’ve re here!
If I may, I’d like to lean on your experience, and yes opinion, and ask what color from either brand would you think would look good with the black railing of the dock? I know this is subjective, but I also don’t have an eye for this and know that you have done over 10k docks! So I very much value you opinion! Thank you so much Sir. As a wounded Vet, I salute you and this outstanding customer service! God Bless!
Maybe Light Walnut or Dark Walnut in the Restore A Deck stain or in TWP, Dark Oak or Pecan colors.
Hi Scott,
I stripped my deck with Restore a Deck stripper. I washed the stripper with a high pressure hose. The deck looked okay but railing was pretty bad. We tried stripping all again per their recommendation, then we sanded with 60 grit orbital sander and tried pressure washing. The sealer on it was a penetrating one that was not effective. The power washing damaged the wood, the deck seems okay but railings not looking good. Should we sand again in areas that have sealer and are damaged ? Brighten… not sure how to deal with it. Thank you!
Did you use the R-A-D Stripper with the Booster and the Thickening Gel? That would help. Also, you could try some of the RAD PaintStrip on those railings. Brighten when done.
I just used the regular Stripper, not the paint stripper. So I have to strip with paint stripper again just the railings? Will that damage the deck when it drips?. Can I sand the flat and damaged areas to even out the texture where power strip blew out the wood? Does the deck itself look good for brightening? Thanks Scott…