Armstrong Clark Wood Stain
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Update 2018
The Armstrong Clark Wood stain has been a solid performer since we started reviewing and using it about 7 years ago. We really like how it penetrates deep into the wood grain and applies easily. Reapplication is simple as needed with a good deck cleaner for the prep. One thing we have noticed is to make sure you do not over apply. You want the AC to soak completely into the wood.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review Below
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is an oil-based stain backed by 5 generations of experience in the exterior wood stain industry. Armstrong Clark is offered in 3 different versions: Trans parents, Semi-Transparent, and Semi-Solid Colors.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are composed of drying and non-drying oils that separate during the application process. The drying oils cure and protect the exposed surface of the wood from natural weathering and UV radiation while the non-drying oils condition the interior of the wood by lubricating the wood cellular structure.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
Armstrong Clark Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
– The Armstrong Clark showed a rich deep enhanced color after application. The natural grain of the wood showed throughout the deck surface. The Mountain Cedar color was a “tannish” cedar color.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar offered better than average UV protection. When using a semi-solid stain we expected to achieve excellent UV protection and the Mountain Cedar delivered. We would expect that the semi-transparent and transparent colors to offer slightly less UV protection due to the lesser amount of solids.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain had little to no peeling. The only wearing of the stain was on the steps. This most likely was the result of the homeowner’s dogs.
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– Armstrong Clark sells for $41.99 per gallon for the semi-solids ($36.99 for semi-transparent). This is an average price for a quality deck stain. We found that Armstrong Clark has one of the best square foot coverages. For our 600 square foot test deck, we used only 2.5 gallons of stain for the required one coat. Final appearance was even with no noticeable bare spots.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 7
– The Armstrong stain did have some very minor mold spores on top of the stain. On further inspection it seemed that the mold was not growing in the stain and could easily be wiped off with a wet towel.
Ease of Application: 9
– Extremely easy to apply! Armstrong’s manufacturer states that their stain can be applied in direct sunlight. We tested our application at 90 degrees in full sun. We did not experience any flash drying or unevenness of the stain. No noticeable drips on the vertical railings. We were pleasantly surprised at how well the semi-solid applied with a garden pump sprayer.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar darkened slightly in color from the original application. Most likely due to the high solid
content of the semi-solid stain.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain would be an easy product to recoat after a light cleaning. The stain does not darken and penetrates extremely well. Key factors when it comes to reapplications.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.2
– Armstrong Clark performed at a high level after the two-year mark. Our favorite aspects of the stain were the ease of application and the coverage rate. There was very little to no peeling of the stain and color shifting was acceptable. We would expect that applying a maintenance coat would be easy with a wood cleaning and wood brightening.
Product Information:
More Info: ArmstrongClarkStain.com
Cost: $36.99 per Gallon, $184.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Mountain Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
This is a great site! So much information; it’s also overwhelming for our older brains and our level of wood smarts. We’ve ordered a red cedar pergola kit from “Outdoor Living Today” and can either let it weather naturally or (preferred) put some type of stain on it prior to assembling it for protection from elements. Originally we were thinking of using a solid but the reviews we’ve seen on different sites indicate lots of issues with peeling etc. We live in the Chicago area. From what we’ve read, our understanding is that the TWP stains cannot be used on unweathered wood. What types of stain would you choose for a new red cedar structure. Thanks for this site and thanks in advance whether or not you have any recommendations. Don’t know if this is helpful at all, but I’m including the photo from the manufacture’s site.
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Can you mix a transparent with a semi transparent. Would like the chest nut or pale oak a little lighter. Going on pressure washed boarding.
Yes, you should be able to do this.
I reached out for deck stain options and you suggested Armstrong Clark as well as TWP 1500. I have not decided which product to use but since your suggestions and in prepping the deck I have had to replaced 14 12′ deck boards. Now I have created a problem. The boards are new treated pine and don’t match the older weathered boards. Now I’m not sure when I can clean, brighten, and apply the stain. Your additional help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
You will need to let the new wood season for a few months and then prep by cleaning and brightening.
I had a redwood deck and planter boxes constructed last Spring (2017). I used Behr Transparent Penetrating Oil Wood Finish on them. It was “Clear” as I wanted to keep the natural wood finish. It turned out awful, streaky, blotchy and the wood turned a yellow/golden color. I was told today that their product that they call “Clear” is not clear, but is designed to turn the wood to natural or without color. I am starting to sand it off, which is not as bad as I thought. Coming off pretty easy and for the most part back to the original redwood color. I don’t generally like the redwood stains as they look a little fake to me. I do like natural red cedar as well as the natural redwood. If I can find a color that I like in the AC line, will I be able to use it after I get done sanding and cleaning the wood, or should I sand, clean and leave until next Spring? I live in Reno, NV and the sun is very hot.
Thank You for your help with my questions
You should be okay to stain this year as long as you remove the current Behr coating.
Can I put this over oil based stain?
No. When switching brands you have to remove the current stain.
Can I put oil based stain over latex stain ???
No you cannot.
I have a covered exterior deck in northern ny. I have solid stain on the floor. I want to have it have a bit more of a sheen. Very dull flat looking. I was considering an oil base w sealant to apply over this. Will this work or not ??? Ty Sue
No, it will not work. You cannot apply a product like AC over a solid stain.
Looking to restain a 25-year-old cedar-sided house. Used Cabot Oil “chestnut” stain the first time some eight years ago. Worked great. The product is no longer sold here in Sonoma, CA. Looking at Armstrong to recover in a semi-solid. TWP – “fake oil” is a potential alternative contender. Any thoughts on coverage, warranty, hoter climate, going over weathered shingles…successfully. Doing it ourselves. thanks!
Not sure what you mean about “fake oil”? TWP is oil based 100%. Both the AC and the TWP 1500 would be excellent options for this. You will have to prep first to remove the Cabot. You cannot apply a different brand over the Cabot without removing first.
We live in Sonoma, CA also and have a cedar shingled house. Wondering what you ended up using and if you are happy with it. Did you do it yourselves? Thank you.
Hi. My husband and I live in San Francisco, California. We just completed construction of our redwood deck. We would like to maintain to look and well being of the wood for as long as possible. It seems like the more pigment a stain has, the more protection it provides. Does the AC Transparent Natural stain provide any protection? We like the natural look the most, but don’t want to compromise the structure of our deck in the long run, for lack of protection. Are solid or semi transparent stains better? Or are all the AC stains comparable, provided that we apply regular maintenance and upkeep at the two year mark? Thank you for you time and advice.
Natural colors has the least amount of colorant so it will fade the fastest from UV. The semi-solid colors will give the best UV protection in the Armstrong Clark.
Thank you.
I recently stained my deck with Armstrong Clark semi transparent deck stain. It needed a second coat but didn’t have time to put it on. If I apply another coat in the spring, when weather permits, what do I need to do to prep the deck first?
You will need to use a deck cleaner and lightly pressure wash the wood.
My question is: Just finished sanding my redwood deck down to bare wood. Had to replace a few boards with new wood. sanded all to 60 grit. smooth not rough cut. Most of the old redwood is still darker than the newer wood. Would it be best to let the deck go thru the winter and rain in the unfinished state? and use a cleaner and brightener in the spring and then stain? will letting the wood get wet effect the outcome? If I sand again will I have to wait again or will the cleaner and brightener open the pores enough to stain. Planning on using AC semi transparent stain
Yes, you can do this. No need to sand again in the Spring.
May be a novice question, what is the reason for finishing a deck in the spring vs any other time of year. I had been finishing my deck before the rains and winter each time in the fall. Have I been doing it wrong all along? I have been using Thompsens transparent woodland cedar on redwood and have to re finish every year. This is why I am going to try the Armstrong product this time on the horizontal floor boards. Live in California where the deck gets direct sunlight and many days over 100 degrees. Thank you and I will wait until spring.
Deck Restoration, in general, is a season thing. In the Winter the deck is not used that much so better to do in Spring so it looks great when you use it the most.
We are ready to paint front porch on our 117 yr old home. We have decided to use a wood stain on floor vs. painting for a few reasons. Our local hardware store recommended AC Wood Stain. We are having the floor professionally sanded to remove existing paint. We did have to replace a few boards on floor & my question is do we need to let them weather & wait until spring? They are kiln dried.
Yes it would best to let the wood weather Prep and stain all in the Spring. Sand this year.
Just want to clarify…suggesting we go ahead & have entire floor sanded, let it weather over winter & then clean, prep & stain in spring?
That is correct.
Would you explain why we should sand now? I guess I thought if we have to let new boards weather, we’d let floor as is & do sanding in spring too. Is there an advantage to having the existing boards exposed & weather also? Or better to leave whats left of paint on them? Appreciate the help!
Sanding right before staining would reduce penetration of the stain. Also you will have a better chance of blending the boards if you sand now, let weather and prep all in the Spring.
I have a question about applying AC semi solid stain. In your how to apply deck stain article you say “You can back brush the stain if you are using a roller, pad, or sprayer. Using a brush to even out the finish will give you better results. Once you have applied stain to several boards from end to end be sure the stain is soaking in. After 20-30 minutes wipe away any excess stain that is still puddled up or running and has not been absorbed. At that point, it is not going to be absorbed as the wood has soaked up all the stain it can. ”
However in this comment thread you tell people who say they ‘back brushed’ the AC during application and the color is transferring to feet, that they applied incorrectly and should not have ‘back wiped’ the stain. Can you clarify since you say you should both back brush and back wipe in your article that I quoted above. I plan on applying with either an airless sprayer or a pad. Should I stop there and not use a brush to even it out (back brush) and not wipe up excess stain (back wipe)?
Also I cleaned and brightened with RAD today and am waiting for 3 dry days to stain. I’m in the Pacific Northwest and it is likely it will rain the day after I stain, maybe even hours after I stain lol. Is that ok?
While applying you can back brush to ensure an even application while the stain is wet. What you cannot do is “back wipe” the stain to remove excess after say an hour or two. This will remove any curing oils so it will not “seal” properly.
When you are done applying, just leave it alone to soak in and cure correctly.
Ok, thank you for the clarification.
Also I cleaned and brightened with RAD today and am waiting for 3 dry days to stain. I’m in the Pacific Northwest and it is likely it will rain the day after I stain, maybe even hours after I stain lol. Is that ok?
Day after is fine. Hours later might be an issue.
Hi, I have an eight year old redwood (half soft half heart) deck wrapped around our pool that was never finished. It was pressure washed a few times which caused the grain to show, a lot of splinters and hairline cracks. We are hiring someone to restore it this month and they want to sand it with different grades of grit and then apply the Armstrong clark stain, the stain being my choice by the way (they didn’t specify how, i.e. via brush or spray). Is this the best process for my situation? I see that you’re recommending the Gemini Restoration Kit a lot. Do you think it’s needed in my case?
Also I’m located in San Jose California and the weather here is pretty hot and dry for most of the year with a short rainy season and a week or two of frost during winter. I wonder if I made the right choice in stain given our particular weather.
Can you comment on the best way to refinish my deck as I have the company scheduled for work already and I want to make sure they do the best job possible.
Thank you so much for taking the time to respond, I really appreciate having a place like this to get knowledge straight from the pros. I appreciate any input, again, thank you very much.
Ligia
Pressure wash with a deck cleaner. Brighten all wood after and rinse well. Let dry and lightly sand if needed. Stain with the AC.
I am about to start re-staining my pine-sided house, approx. 2500 sq ft. It was last done with Sikkens Cetol oil-based stain and re-done a second time about 4 years ago. Peeling is an issue…. My plan is to palm sand the entire surface and to apply AC semi-solid to color match my new garage stain which is a Cabot Timber Oil – Jarrah Brown. I am hoping for a close-enough match and selected AC semi-solid Mountain Cedar and Woodland as samples for the match. The semi-solid option is due to color variation in areas that have peeled and those which have not. Once the color is selected, the plan would be to sand and stain one wall at a time. Is this a good plan? Or, am I missing a step? In addition to sanding (80/60/20 grit), do I need to wait before applying stain? Or, should I follow sanding with a cleaner as well? Should I power wash? If so, before or after sanding? Dry time before stain application if power washed?
Doing the job myself with 2 helpers…. early fall. I am in the woods in upstate NY. Thanks for any guidance that you may be able to provide. Bob
After the sanding, apply a deck cleaner and a wood brightener and then pressure rinse. This removes sand dust and opens the wood grain. Let dry for 48 hours.
we are doing a privacy screen out of cedar with cedar 4×4 posts cedar 2x4s and cedar 1×6 fence boards horizontally.
it is now the end of august and to wait the 3 month period to let the new cedar weather/age would take us to the beginning of december (winter weather).
would you advise us to install it and leave it outside for 8 months for warmer weather to return next spring before cleaning/brightening/staining or wait 1 to 1.5 months to stain before the cold weather hits us?
thanks in advance.
Is the fence wood rough sawn cut or smooth?
yes all of the cedar is of a smooth finish.
Wait until Spring then to prep and stain.
Hello we prepped our deck (power washed, deck cleaner and brightener) applied Armstrong semi-transparent stain onto dry neck using roller and brush. Stain dried fine. However once dry when we walk on the deck stain rubs off onto our feet. Two years later stain still rubs off on hands and feet. Wondering if we did not have stain mixed enough before applying? Ordered 5 gallon bucket. Two years later need to re-stain and want to make sure we are doing everything correctly so that the stain does not rub off this time.
You may have had issues with the prep not being done correctly and or back wiped off the drying oils which is a no-no.
It would be best to remove and start over. Strip and pressure wash. It will come off easily. Brighten all the wood after. Make sure to only apply the one coat and do not back wipe.
I have the same problem. The deck was 9 mos old. Used cleaner and brightened. Thoroughly rinsed both and waited til the next day to stain. 3months later I have powdered stain on the surface and increasing as the week’s pass. The first steps on carpet have ruined it.
Running your hand over the surface comes up brown in a few inches. How exactly foes this happen?
In your case, it could have been that the wood was still wet when you applied since it was next day. Typically 48 hours is the minimum to wait after prep or rain. I would contact AC directly and get his advice. Let us know what he says.
When I said turn black I mean black right into the wood. I mean mold you cannot wash off. That’s what happens in a damp climate with oil base stains
Not all brands of oil-based stains will have this issue as you mentioned. Certain ones like Penofin, Super Deck and Sikkens seem to have this issue as you mentioned.
I am about to redo a deck If I put on Armstrong deck finish will it turn black like all other oil deck stains I have used. The deck is on the north side of our house. It rains most of the winter here.
The stain does not darken in color but it cannot prevent dirt, etc from accumulating on top.
I completed installing a Western Red Cedar deck a month ago in southern Maine. I would like to use a semi transparent stain to allow the color and grain structure of the wood to remain visible. The weather has been cool and wet for the last month and looks as though it will continue that way for at least another week. How long should I wait before staining the wood? I have a moisture meter if that helps. I’m planning to lightly pressure wash prior to staining.
Dan, see this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
How do I tell if my Armstrong stain is still good?
Not sure what you are asking?
I bought a 5 gallon pail that I did not use all of 3 years ago when I last did my deck. I am asking if what is left over is still ok to use now that I’m redoing my deck? It was sealed pretty well and was in the basement so it did not freeze. It has separated but seems ok when I stir it up … how could I tell if it wasn’t good to use anymore?
If bad it would clump and have a jell on the surface. If good, you can tell if is mixes easily with a consistent smoothness. No clumps.
Thank you
I have a 5yr old mahogany and have used restore a deck and Armstrong stain each spring. Part of the deck is in shade and part in sun. How do I prevent the shaded area from having a build of stain. is the new Armstrong compatible with the previous mahogany stain.
You can strip and brighten for the prep when reapplying. You can use the new colors this way as well.
Does it come in different colors
Yes, it comes in numerous colors.
Where can I buy this stain in Michigan?
Contact manufacturer for help with this.
Where can I find Armstrong stain in Reno Nevada?
Contact manufacturer for help locating. If not available, buy online.
Can a pump sprayer be used?
We use a pump sprayer when applying AC.
If I pressure wash and clean my deck with restore a deck how long do I need to wait before staining? Can you do it the next day/weekend/month? Also how long does it unusually take to receive after ordering AC and do y'all have a distributors/dealers in ga or sc area? Thanks
Hello, typically you wait about 2-3 days after prep before applying the stain. Stain within 2 weeks of prep. I would suggest reaching out to Armstrong Clark directly for dealer info.
I now am the proud owner of a new redwood deck 36'x24'. In order to preserve the redwood color, do you recommend a transparent or semi-transparent stain?
The richer or darker the color, the longer it will prevent UV protection. See this about new wood:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
We would wait the 3 months and prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener before staining. We normally use the semi-transparent colors.
Installed a new pressure treated deck in June '16. Full sun in Atlanta, Ga. The deck boards had manufacturer stamps 'inked' onto/into the wood. I sanded with palm sander to remove but now have left several sanded lighter places to already aged original places. How can I get the lighter patches to better match the surrounding wood? Do I now need to wait 2-3 months for sanded places to evolve to accept the stain? If so, I'm into Oct/Nov before applying and will this be too late and should I wait till Spring? Would like to use a semi-transparent to allow wood grain to show.
Need to wait a couple of months and then clean and brighten all the wood for the prep. Just wait until Spring.
We have a 25 yr old cedar deck in very sound condition, but was not regularly stained. The past two summers we have tried to restain it only to have it peel. What would you suggest? Also, is it possible to obtain a white stain for the railings?
AC does not come in a white. Start by removing all of the current stain that was peeling. If you want a two toned deck, then paint the railings with a solid color stain made by Flood. Use the AC for the flooring.
Is A&C stain available in the DC area
Not sure, contact manufacturer for help.
just built a new pressure treated pine deck around the pool. Decking has been installed for 2 weeks now. I would love to apply stain asap to avoid the pressure treat from any more twisting and cracking. Its been in full sun now the entire 2 weeks with very little rain if any. I know the warnings for staining new wood too early. Would you recomend to use an AC semi transparent on this new wood? And how big of a crime will it be if I stain it in 2 weeks. The pressure treat is really taking a beating in the sun right now with no rain in the forcast here in Rochester, NY. What is worst… Cracking twisting deck boards that are unprotected in the sun or staining to early? Or is there a better product for new wood with very little wait time?
No you have to wait 2-3 months and prep first. If you stain too early, then it will most likely fail within a year and you will need to strip and start over. If you want to do this, then prep well first to remove mill glaze and only apply 1 very light coat.
I have been using this stain for many years. I used to use Superdeck but that stain did not hold up as well as the Armstrong after two years. I reapply every two years and the stain has helped to maintain all of my decks since 1990. That's right, 26 years at this point and going strong that my California decks have lasted for the most part because of Armstrong stain.
I have a large Brazilian hardwood deck, We have never been happy with any of the other products we have tried. We have used Penafin, Thompsons water seal and Behr deck stain( supposedly transparent, but unfortunately not). Last year I learned about this product. I ordered 5 gallons. It arrived within three days! It was so easy to apply and had a beautiful finish, I just finished staining my deck this year and still have some left over from the original 5 gallons.
Is Armstrong both stain and seal? And semi-trans should be good enough that allows me to see the pretty of the wood?
Yes to both.
Stain, seal? How to treat a brand new Port Orford cedar deck attached to a conventional cedar lattice privacy screen on one side, with conventional cedar board fencing all around. Shaded Washington DC site. The deck wood is gorgeous. Will they all fade to the same gray if the deck is "transparent" and the fencing not treated at all?
Prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener before using the Armstrong Clark. They should fade evenly through the years if they are both stained.
I live on the Atlantic ocean where wood never totally dries. What stain should I use for my deck? Won't an oil based stain just sit on the surface and peel off?
Oil based stains are penetrating. Prep well and let it dry for two days with no rain. Apply the AC stains.
Do i apply a sealant after staining with Armstrong or is the sealant in the stain?
Thank you,
Deck stains do help to seal the wood. You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain.
We are looking to buy lots of your samitrasparent oil base
Please contact me back my name is Christian monterroso
Business name cp brothers construcion
We do not own that product. Contact the manufacturer directly for help.
where can I find this product Armstrong deck stain?
Contact manufacturer for help locating or order online.
We were extremely pleased with the experience we had with Armstrong. We had a number of questions and got to speak to the company president who was a great resource. Service was great with fast delivery and overall cost (because less stain is needed) was just about the same as poor stains from box stores; yet when you factor in the reduced labor from using higher quality stain you are talking about huge savings and a very obvious decision. Again, wish I had found such high quality stain earlier, but very happy with results now.
I am looking for a Dark Brown stain for our new Cedar Garage door. I have a sample of TWC 1500 Black Walnut in which i love the color but after 15 hours, it is still wet and did not seem to penetrate the wood very well. So I have ordered samples of the semi-solid by Armstrong Clark. Which one would you recommend or is there another one of than these you would suggest?
Kim, you cannot stain new wood right away unless rough cut. It will not absorb very well. Have you read this article?: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
We have been using Oxford Brown from Armstron-Clark this spring & summer on very old cedar shingle siding with fantastic results. It is giving us a dark chocolate type of color. We needed a penetrating stain since the shingles had not been stained in 40+ years, and with the correct prep products (from their Restor-A-Deck line) application with full penetration has been a breeze.
We have most of our siding finished with AC transparent natural, but have a little left to do. We'll have a few hours of dry, but humid, weather today in the high 50s, followed by rain for the next three days. After that, temperatures will drop — 50s during the day, 30s at night. So, should be apply the rest of the stain today, before it rains? The siding is under a 3-ft overhang and won't get wet, but it will be humid. Or, should we wait for a sunny day afterwards? How long does it need to be 50 degress or higher for this stain to dry properly?
You are fine to apply today as long as it is dry out and not raining.
Hi. I'm not sure what you mean by "dry out", since I said the siding is under an overhang, and it's humid and will rain later in the day. Is that "dry" enough? The air is pretty much 100% humidity,
Also, how long does it need to be at 50 degrees? The nights are going into the 30s now.
As long as it is not raining out and the wood is fully dry. It should have at least 4-6 hours of adequate dry temps. Cannot drop below freezing at night.
I put down Rustoleum Restore and it failed the first winter. Now at 2.5 yrs later I have been sanding and scraping for a week. I think I will be able to get it off before another week goes by but in the cracks and between the boards I can't get it off. Now I'm in a pickle, what can I cover it with? Of course it won't budge with pressure wash, it's a horrible product.
Covering it will not fix the issue. You need to remove it by sanding or scraping it off.
We live in northern Georgia. We have just completed a new second story deck constructed of (non-pressured) pine. It was completed in mid July and has full sun with a southerly exposure. I have 4 questions: 1) What stain would you recommend? 2) Can I go ahead and stain it now? 3) Since the bottom of the deck is exposed to another cement patio below, should I stain the top of the deck first, or underneath the deck first? 4) Any tips on how to best apply the stain underneath? Many thanks for your help.
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Use the Armstrong Clark. No need to stain the undersides unless you want to for appearance. You would do the top first then underside right after to catch any drips of stain on the undersides.
Will this cover white leaching stains ?
No it does not cover white leaching stains. You would need a solid stain or paint.
We need help with the after-effect of using your "oil base formula, Armstrong's Wood Stain, wood satin for wood decks and fences siding". The stain continues to wipe off on people's clothing and hands. We have wiped the entire deck down several times no no avail. Please give us some ideas that will help with this problem as soon as possible. Thank you.
FYI, AC is not our stain. It is a full drying stain and cures so it should not do this. Did you happen to back wipe right after applying? If you do this then your remove the curing oils and leaves you will just the non-drying oils and that is why this would happen. I would contact the manufacturer for some help with this.
Applied ac deck stain on 20 yr mahogany deck 2 days ago. Wiped off excess, but deck is still very slippery any ideas? To prep I pressure washed, brushed, use wool man deck rite, brushed, rinsed, dried for a week, swept,and applied ac amber with sheep skin and back brushed. It has been very humid andcloudyhere. Please advise. Should I pressure wash it off?
You cannot back wipe the AC. You removed the curing/drying oils and that is why it will not dry properly. Might want to contact them for some advice.
Who sells it? I kive in Gordonsville va
Call manufacturer for help locating.
Hello, I need help deciding the best transparent stain. I have seen the Defy extreme clear and its good reviews and armstrong is also an option. Does the armstrong transparent make the wood look wet or is it absolutely clear like defy? wet look is preferable. Any advice? thanks.
The Armstrong Clark in Natural is not a \”clear\”. It will darken the wood grain similar as if wet with water. It is also the lightest color of the AC stain. Take note that the lighter the color, the quicker it will fade from UV.