Armstrong Clark Wood Stain
Updated February 2020
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Update 2020
The Armstrong Clark Wood stain has been a solid performer since we started reviewing and using it about 10 years ago. We really like how it penetrates deep into the wood grain and applies easily. Reapplication is simple as needed with a good deck cleaner for the prep. One thing we have noticed is to make sure you do not over apply. You want the AC to soak completely into the wood for the best results.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Review Below
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is an oil-based stain backed by 5 generations of experience in the exterior wood stain industry. Armstrong Clark is offered in 3 different versions: Trans parents, Semi-Transparent, and Semi-Solid Colors.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are composed of drying and non-drying oils that separate during the application process. The drying oils cure and protect the exposed surface of the wood from natural weathering and UV radiation while the non-drying oils condition the interior of the wood by lubricating the wood cellular structure.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
Armstrong Clark Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
– The Armstrong Clark showed a rich deep enhanced color after application. The natural grain of the wood showed throughout the deck surface. The Mountain Cedar color was a “tannish” cedar color.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar offered better than average UV protection. When using a semi-solid stain we expected to achieve excellent UV protection and the Mountain Cedar delivered. We would expect that the semi-transparent and transparent colors to offer slightly less UV protection due to the lesser amount of solids.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain had little to no peeling. The only wearing of the stain was on the steps. This most likely was the result of the homeowner’s dogs.
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– Armstrong Clark sells for $41.99 per gallon for the semi-solids ($36.99 for semi-transparent). This is an average price for a quality deck stain. We found that Armstrong Clark has one of the best square foot coverages. For our 600 square foot test deck, we used only 2.5 gallons of stain for the required one coat. The final appearance was even with no noticeable bare spots.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 7
– The Armstrong stain did have some very minor mold spores on top of the stain. On further inspection, it seemed that the mold was not growing in the stain and could easily be wiped off with a wet towel.
Ease of Application: 9
– Extremely easy to apply! Armstrong’s manufacturer states that their stain can be applied in direct sunlight. We tested our application at 90 degrees in full sun. We did not experience any flash drying or unevenness of the stain. No noticeable drips on the vertical railings. We were pleasantly surprised at how well the semi-solid applied with a garden pump sprayer.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar darkened slightly in color from the original application. Most likely due to the high solid
content of the semi-solid stain.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain would be an easy product to recoat after a light cleaning. The stain does not darken and penetrates extremely well. Key factors when it comes to reapplications.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.2
– Armstrong Clark performed at a high level after the two-year mark. Our favorite aspects of the stain were the ease of application and the coverage rate. There was very little to no peeling of the stain and color-shifting was acceptable. We would expect that applying a maintenance coat would be easy with a wood cleaning and wood brightening.
Product Information:
More Info: ArmstrongClarkStain.com
Cost: $40.99 per Gallon, $219.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Mountain Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
This is Natural Oak Stain. Looks amazing and was really easy to apply after cleaner/brightener!
Looks great!
Is a waterproof sealer required following the stain? Who sells this Armstrong Clark product?
You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain. No need as well. Check with Armstrong Clark for dealers or where to buy online.
I have a built a new western red cedar dock (to be installed over freshwater) and I am not sure if it is better to go with a “transparent” Armstrong Clark stain or a “semi-transparent” variant. The deck gets a decent amount of sun exposure, so I would prefer a good amount of UV protection, but without changing the natural red cedar color of the wood too much. Thoughts? Many thanks.
Semi-transparent colors will give better UV protection. See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thanks so much for the help.
I am in the northeast with hard winters. My cedar deck is 20 years old. I have replaced bad dry rotted boards over the years. I haven’t been steady w oil treatment for the cedar. Should I wait till winter is over before pressure washing and staining w Armstrong? I wouldn’t stain till early spring at this time so I guess I should wait on the pressure wash too.
Best to prep and stain in the Spring at this point.
Thank you.
Hello!
I just bought two gallons of AC semi transparent cedar and I’m planning on applying tomorrow. I don’t have a sprayer so I can either roll it or use a brush. What is the recommended method of application?
Thanks! Love the site
Use a deck stain pad or brush for best results.
How will the stain perform on old cedar wood
Works great for older wood.
Hello. I have a 25+ year old redwood deck, that is in pretty good condition but needed to replace some boards. The installed replacement boards are of pressure treated wood rather than redwood (not my choice, but was what my husband was advised to do.) We have power washed the deck so far and plan to strip and brighten the deck before staining it. I have a couple of questions I am hoping you can advise on:
1. How should we best prep the deck? After reading reviews, we plan to use Restore a Deck drip and brightening.
2. With two different woods now on the deck, what stain do you recommend — semi-solid or solid?
3. Which best rated semi-solid and solid stains stains come with the most color options, particularly in dark gray (which seems to be harder to come by) and dark brown?
4. We found Benjamin Moore Arborcoat grey stains, either in semi-solid or solid, but I am concerned with using it, after seeing the low rating review. What would you keep in mind for this brand’s stains?
5. Do you have any other suggestions we should consider?
Thank you!
1. Strip and brighten.
2. Solid stain.
3. Solid stains can be custom mixed to any color you want.
4. We would not use the Arborcoat.
5. Try Flood Solid Stains ore Defy Extreme Solid Stains.
Thank you. Can you explain further why you recommend a solid stain for my situation. You proposed Flood or Defy Solid stains…is that because per my questions they offer more color options? Would you alternatively use Restore a Deck solid if I were to find a color with them? How long do I need to have the new solid weathered before I stain. I’d like one with the least amount of lead time needed, as I need to stain soon. For maintaining the solid stain what can I expect to encounter. Thanks.
A solid stain will blend all the wood better. RAD Solids work great as well. Clean and reapply as needed down the road. Every 2-4 years.
Thank you! For the stripper and brightener, is it best to use the same brand as the stain we choose? Or, just a quality stripper and brightener?
Same brand.
Not a good experience with Armstrong Clark. Cleaned and prepped a new pressure treated pine deck floor (aged 1 year) with Restore-a-Deck product to specifications, including 3 days to dry. Stained with Armstrong Clark Driftwood Grey with quality brushes . Deck is 15′ up with railings and fascia boards stained with Cabot Solid white. Had to do extensive taping and wiping with mineral spirits since stain is very watery and gets all over the fascia boards with this two tone approach. Instructions on AC stain product calls for bleach and dish soap cleaner, which upon further research does not need neutralizer (or brightener on new wood), and yet there is some follow on paragraph about using a neutralizer with unspecified cleaner. These facts can only be obtained by extensive search on Armstrong Clark. Furthermore, there is a buried document which states that acid based cleaners are not recommended for Driftwood Grey, which does not appear in any of their current documentation. Since we didn’t know this, we used the Restore-a-Deck and stained with Driftwood Grey, with the result that there is virtually no color: in the daylight it looks almost like raw boards. Armstrong Clark was ambiguous about what to do. They claimed we could put another coat (wet-on-dry) , or if we waited until next Spring (and generally for maintenance coats) that we did not need to do anything but a light wash with dish soap. This contradicts there own written recommendations in places, and also sites such as this, which don’t recommend wet-on-dry second coats and do recommend always cleaning and neutralizing/brightening before applying stain. There is so much contradictory information about how to clean and with what, whether to neutralize/brighten, whether to use wet-on-wet or wet-on-dry and how long one can wait between coats for the latter, whether additional coats will darken or only protect, and so on. Very unclear what to do now as the deck has no color whatsoever, we are two days past staining, and there is rain.
We have never heard of or seen anything in person like this before. We personally have used the driftwood gray color after using a brighener numerous times with no issues. The Brighener would not be the cause of little to no color showing as it is not possible for that to wash out the color. It would be more or less be the wood itself and they way it is taking the stain. We would suggest taking their advice by adding another coat now or in the Spring. Their product is one of the few that can be applied both wet and wet and wet on dry.
Thanks for your reply. Still unclear about the following.
1. Suppose I want to apply new coat now. It has rained and is puddling. The stain has increased the puddling from the rain. Do I go out there and try to sweep the water off? There is tree detrius in the puddles which will smear if I do that. And if I wait 2 days after it dries out, it may be 2 weeks or maybe more after the initial stain since there is more rain on the way . Also, if it is dirty, should I wash it again?
2. Suppose I want to apply new coat in Spring. Do I follow Armstrong Clark recommendation of light was with dish soap, or do I use bleach or some other cleaner and brightener? Also, do I need enough stain for 2 coats?
1. After rain stops you could lightly broom off the water so it dries faster. Maybe a leaf blower will be better so no debris is smeared. You can still stain two weeks later if for some reason it takes that long. If dirty, lightly rinse with water.
2. Light wash with soap. Just one coat.
Hello – I have an at grade pressure treated fir deck, almost 10 years old. Part of it is under an overhang and the rest is very wet all winter (Pacific Northwest). I used Thompson’s water seal to poor results in the early years. Unhappy with the performance, I wanted to do a switch. I was told since Thompson’s contains a wax, to let the deck weather for a couple of years so it comes out of the wood, then sand (80 grit) and use an oil based better quality product instead. I’ve left it for three summers and I’m sanding it now. I want to use AC semi-transparent in oak. Once I’ve sanded, do I still need to strip and use a cleaner? And how long between sanding / prep and staining does there have to be in order to have good penetration with the AC product? Many thanks for your helpful site!
Clean and brighten after the sanding. This will allow the AC to soak in better. Wait 48 hours to stain after.
Thank you!!
Hi,
We are building our deck with a treated cedar frame and railings, while using Trex for the decking. Im leaning towards using the Armstrong’s semi transparent stain for all the treated wood, aswell as using Vycor deck protector tape on top of all the joists. Would this be a combination that you would recommend? Are there any other brands of stains that you would preferably use on new wood? Should I use the tape, and if so, stain before I apply the tape?
Thanks,
Sean
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
You cannot stain it now so if you want to use the tape, do that first. The underside or joists do not need to be stained anyhow.
Hello,
I have powersanded my PT pine deck to remove the Behr solid stain it had on it and have RAD cleaner & brightener ready to go. I also purchased Armstrong Clark rustic brown deck stain. Unfortunately, the weather report is saying there is ~50% of thunderstorms from 9am until 9pm Wednesday. Thursday is looking to be 84F and mostly sunny.
1. Can I use RAD cleaner & brightener on wet wood after the storms have passed on Wednesday?
2. If yes to #1, would the deck be ready to stain Thursday evening (~6pm) after drying all day (84F & mostly sunny)?
3. If yes to #2, can I put back my deck furniture / grill on Friday afternoon/evening? Will that be enough time for everything to absorb fully?
1. Yes.
2. Typically 48 hours after prep or rain to let the wood dry, not the next day.
3. Depends on if it is fully dry. Hard to say.
I have an old deck that I want to stain and am interested in AC. I pressure washed and then lightly sanded. Am I ready to use the semi solid stain or need to do more prep like the brightener? Thanks very much.
You should be okay to stain.
Thanks. 2 boards are new as I had to replace due to water damage. Should they be treated differently than the old boards?
Since only 2, go ahead and prep and stain the same. Those boards will need another coat though in about 9-12 months.
Hello,
I have a year old redwood deck that I sanded with 120 grit sandpaper and prepped with Armstrong Clark cleaning then brightening using a power washer. My first attempt at power washing got most but not get all the gray out so I then put more cleaner on and scrubbed with a stiff bristle brush and then brightened again. Oh so beautiful. I’ve now read that 60 or 80 grit sandpaper is preferred for deck prep. I’m staining with Armstrong Clark transparent stain cedar tone. Will the 120 grit sandpaper hurt things or am I good?
Thanks for your help,
David
The stain will not absorb well, reducing the proper curing and longevity. Let it weather naturally for 1-2 months and then clean and brighten for prep. No more sanding.
Hi can the ac semi transparent stain in driftwood be tinted to make it a little darker. Thanks
Nope.
My B Grade redwood deck is about 12 years old and I would like to sand and stain this spring. Your suggestions would be appreciated.
After you have prepped your deck for stain i.e., (using cleanser and brightner), I know you are supposed to wait at least 2 days to apply stain. My question is how long can your deck go without staining after you have prepped it?
Try to stain within 14 days of the prep.
Looking at the AC Semi-Solids. These are the only colors I can find that appear to be dark enough and closest Match to my other deck which has Olympic Maximum in a tinted Tobacco Color (dark brown with a hint of red tones).
BUT … I just saw on the AC site (armclark dot com) that for the Semi-Solids it says: NOT for wood less than 1 year old / NOT for sitting surfaces or furniture / NOT for playground equipment. What?
Ok Perhaps I understand “less than a year old” although my deck will be 3-5 months old when i stain it (new wood that I will prep), but what is up with Not for Sitting Surfaces or Furniture? So am I stuck with the Semi-Transparent colors?
Right now I have a sample of the AC ST Rustic Brown which in the pic looks close to where I need to be, but applied it is very transparent and more red than brown. Also, this product seems to go on and just sit on the wood and not soak in. I tested it on 10 year old lightly sanded but not washed deck plank. It pooled on the top and got spots. I am assuming Mill Glaze?
Also tried the RAD Dark Oak sample on the same board. It soaked in much much better upon application, but was basically the same color and the darkest color available from RAD
I also have a sample of TWP Dark Oak 100 series, but not holding out much hope on the color.
Where can I get a Dark Color? I guess the AC Semi-Solids are out for my use (deck with steps and chairs). AC says I can mix colors, but could I mix the Rustic Brown ST with a darker semi s0lid. or perhaps there very dark Black Walnut Transparent … or just use that alone, but it too may be too light?
Here are the samples I have so far. Pic #3, RAD on Left in Dark Walnut (bottom same) / Center AC Semi-Trans Rustic Brown (bottom same not dry) / Far Right Olympic Maximum Semi-Trans Tobacco (where I’m trying to be). I have an older deck in back and staining 2 newer decks in front. Trying to match them close but not perfectly. And I dont want to use the Olympic if I dont have to.
Pic #1 is where it is going. Pic #2 is the deck Im trying to match, but one is in the front of the house the other in the back so it does not have to be perfect.
Any ideas? If I do a 2 coats will it darken? Or will the same color darker a year later in a refresh?
You can only apply one coat to new wood and yes the AC suggests waiting a year for their semi-solids. I would go with Black Walnut semi-transparent in AC. One coat this year and another in 12-18 months if needed.
Do not mix AC semi-trans and semi-solid for wood that is less than 1 year old.
Just got a sample of the Black Walnut Semi-Transparent. I looks pretty good. I like it Better than the Olympic Max because it is not laying on top of the wood (like paint) and you can actually see nice wood grain thru it. So the AC Blk Wlnt will work for the first year. Also got a sample of the Oxford Brn and Espresso. The Espresso is almost exactly the color I want (but even being a Semi-Solid, it is not much diff than the AC Semi-Transparent).
But following your lead and advice on the AC Semi-Solids, I will go with the Blk Wlnt for the first year or so, and then when I do the refresher coat, if I even want the other color (I may end up loving the Blk Wlnut), but if not, i will at that time, in 12-18 months go with the Espresso Semi-Solid over the Blk Wlnt.
Thanks for the help. Now to wait a few more months before i can stain the new decks. Did get a moisture meter. As of 2 days ago. Most of the tops of the wood on the decks is down to 9-14%. So it is getting close to ready. Few places were at 14-18% (under hand rails, etc). So hope to have it all stained by early June.
Here is my sample plate. Lone 2×4 is where I am trying to be – Olympic Maximum Tobacco.
Full aged deck board shot Left to Right: AC Semi -S Oxford Brn / AC Semi-S Espresso / TWP Dark Oak / AC Semi-T Blk Wlnut / RAD Drk Wlnut / AC Semi-T Rustic Brown
Close up Right to Left: AC Semi-S Espresso / TWP Dark Oak / AC Semi-T Blk Wlnut
I’ll do Blk Walnut on the new wood decks this year and Espresso next year.
I actually like the TWP as a product better. Seemed to go on better than the AC, but the Dark Oak is the darkest color I saw from TWP
Completing the construction of adding a new redwood railing ( top/bottom rail approx. 50 ft. total and two 4 -step stairs ). I desire to retain the natural color. Since construction began the wood has discolored slightly due to the weather. Upcoming forecast here in So. Cal is rain from Wednesday 3/20 – 22/2019. My research on the best solution for treating the redwood has rendered the following; No Varnish/Urethane or Oil based finish with the exception of Quality oil-based finishes, including those based upon linseed oil, containing mildewcides, and are appropriate for use on exterior redwood. With this information what would you recommend for recapturing and retain the natural hue of the wood?
Thank you!
Marvin
Armstrong Clark would work very well for this. Any color that you like.
See this for tips on new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I applied the Armstrong Clark semi transparent stain in the color chestnut about 2 years ago. Part of my deck is covered all summer and that part has maintained the color rather well. But the other part of the deck is exposed to sun and has little stain left on them. I want to reapply the same color this year. Do I just have to use a cleaner and brightener then stain, or since there is such a variation of color on the boards should I do something else in addition to using a cleaner and brightener.
Can you post a picture showing the variation?
Here’s the pics
Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and then the wood brightener while pressure washing for the prep of all the wood.
I guess I don’t understand what you mean. Do you mean I need to put the cleaner in my pressure washer then do the same thing with the brightener.
Directions are on the prep containers. They are used while pressure washing but not in the pressure washer.
My name is Mikki Hopkins. I asked a question a hour ago and can’t open your response. Thanks.
The response is above, asking for a picture.
These are the pics.
I sent you pics. Hope you got them.
Hi, what’s the prep needed to apply a second coat of stain? We stained our newly built fence last summer and would want to apply a second coat this year for added protection.
Clean and brighten the wood for the prep. Try the Restore A Deck prep kits.
I live in California, 1 hour north of San Francisco. I have a 650 sq. ft. redwood clear heart deck built in Oct. 2016. It was sanded and stained 2 weeks after completion with 1 coat of Super Deck transparent “Cedar 1901”. Seven months later, on May 30, 2017, it was washed 3 times with Super Deck exterior wood cleaner and stained with 1 coat of Super Deck transparent
“Cedar 1901”. Approximately 6 weeks later, on July 10, 2017, it was stained again for the 3rd time with Super Deck transparent “Cedar 1901”. No deck cleaner was used and no other preparation was done prior to this last staining on July 10, 2017.
I want to try using an Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain, hoping for better color retention and I would like to be able to still see the wood grain. Since I could not stain the deck this summer, I will wait until next spring. Can you tell me the correct preparation to use before staining with Armstrong Clark? Also, should 1 or 2 coats of stain be applied?
I spoke recently with Armstrong Clark Customer Support about this semi-transparent stain. Part of my deck is shaded and is prone to get mold. They recommended a product called “Wet and Forget” which can be sprayed onto the deck and should help prevent mold. Do you know anything about this product and can you recommend it?
Thank you very much for your help!
You will need to remove the Super Deck first. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. Let dry for a few days apply the AC. How many coats depends on how porous your wood is.
Thank you. Will I need to power wash and sand the deck in this process? If so, when would I power wash and when would I sand? Will the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener Kits give me more specific directions? Can you give me any special tips to using these two kits? Do you know anything about the “Wet and Forget” mold inhibitor product recommended by Armstrong Clark Customer Support?
You pressure wash while using the stripper. No need to sand. Yes the RAD products have directions. Best to read them for help in using their products. Wet and Forget does not work that well.
Thank you for your advice! The same person at Armstrong Clark Customer Support who recommended “Wet and Forget” also told me I could buy a tube of mildewcide to mix into each gallon of stain. Does this sound like good advice to prevent mold?
I just interviewed a painter who has agreed to stain my deck in the spring. He told me that he power washes while using a deck cleaner and then sands the deck. He said that because cleaning and power washing raise the grain of the wood, sanding is necessary to smooth it out before staining. I will follow your advice and ask him to use a stripper and brightener to remove the old SuperDeck stain on my deck. What could happen if he insists on sanding afterwards? Should I insist that he not sand the deck at all? If my deck appears to need a second coat of stain, what should the painter do before applying the second coat?
I was happy with the initial color of the SuperDeck transparent “Cedar 1901” stain. It brought out the natural color of the redwood without overwhelming it or making it too red. Can you recommend a color in the Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stains which might do the same? What is the best way to test the color of an Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain? My painter suggested doing a color test on my deck steps. How could I remove the testing colors from the steps before staining the deck?
My deck gets very dirty and is surrounded by trees and exposed to pollen. How can I clean it over time without damaging the applied stain?
Thank you once again. I really appreciate your help!
We applied per the directions about 10 days ago Spray then rolled out. No puddles, etc. It’s slick. Help.
That means it was over applied and possibly not prepped correctly. Try rinsing the excess stain off with a pressure washer. If that does not fully remove the excess stain, use mineral spirits and rags to wipe down the entire deck. Very important to saturate all oily rags in water when done and lay flat outside to dry. This avoids accidental spontaneous combustion.
Had redwood Deck stained last year with a cheap transparent product, it has failed and I want to apply an oil based Mahogany from Armstrong and Clark, I am sanding the old stain and now the wood looks good to apply an oil stain, what about areas under the deck that are hard to reach, if I can get sand paper to it, will oil stain adhere to the wood
In these pictures, the old stain is not removed. You will need to remove this old coating fully before using a different brand like the AC. Try Stripping and pressure washing. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits.
I stripped and belt sanded a nice old mahogany porch and purchased the AC transparent natural tone wanting the wood to show its true beauty. These are pictures when I applied to a couple of the steps on my porch. I must say for natural tone, this appears rather dark. To me that was ALOT of work to see these results hoping that natural tone would allow the wood to speak. Any suggestions?
That looks normal as the Mahogany wood is a dark red when stained.
could I use Armstrong Clark Wood Stain on a new deck that has been up for six weeks. I looked at the Timber wood oil and we wanted a darker color than what they had and winter is coming around the corner. So we were hoping we could use the Armstrong because of the color we wanted
3-6 months for AC and then prep correctly first.
Thanks for the reply we will wait till spring than. One more question, if we wait till spring that would be about 9 months we would like a dark walnut or wood look with a semi what would be the best stain
Try the AC in Rustic Brown or Black Walnut colors.
You can stain the new deck once the moisture content of the wood is around 12%. You can buy a moisture meter and check it yourself. The meter is very inexpensive and easy to use. Check multiple spots including 4×4 posts. New decks typically take from 6-12 weeks to be dry enough for coating.
You need 3-6 months for new decks to season per AC and you must prep to remove the mill glaze and any oxidation.
Why does the mfg instructions forbid garden sprayer application if you found it to work well?
I am about to apply AC semi solid on new cedar and need guidance as to whether your method works or I need to follow the mfg instructions.
The AC cannot be sprayed with a pump sprayer anymore. It used to be able to. Best to use a stain par or brush.
The garden sprayer will not apply a even coat. It is best to Roll and back brush to avoid over application. Be sure to roll three to four complete boards at a time to avoid lap lines.
How does Chabot compare with the other stains on a new deck surface. Will it penetrate into the wood?
No, Cabot will not work a well and may peel.
installing new red cedar kiln dried 5/4″ covered porch decking, want a natural finish , do i have to sand before applying.
it is a wraparound porch 100’x 10′ sounds like 5 gal should do
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
After the weathering and prep, you only apply one coat. You will need about 6-7 gallons.
I have replaced a lot of boards on my deck last month. I have eight older ones that are in good condition. And added then for a different look. When should i clean and stain my deck here in Atlanta, Ga?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
This is a great site! So much information; it’s also overwhelming for our older brains and our level of wood smarts. We’ve ordered a red cedar pergola kit from “Outdoor Living Today” and can either let it weather naturally or (preferred) put some type of stain on it prior to assembling it for protection from elements. Originally we were thinking of using a solid but the reviews we’ve seen on different sites indicate lots of issues with peeling etc. We live in the Chicago area. From what we’ve read, our understanding is that the TWP stains cannot be used on unweathered wood. What types of stain would you choose for a new red cedar structure. Thanks for this site and thanks in advance whether or not you have any recommendations. Don’t know if this is helpful at all, but I’m including the photo from the manufacture’s site.
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Can you mix a transparent with a semi transparent. Would like the chest nut or pale oak a little lighter. Going on pressure washed boarding.
Yes, you should be able to do this.
I reached out for deck stain options and you suggested Armstrong Clark as well as TWP 1500. I have not decided which product to use but since your suggestions and in prepping the deck I have had to replaced 14 12′ deck boards. Now I have created a problem. The boards are new treated pine and don’t match the older weathered boards. Now I’m not sure when I can clean, brighten, and apply the stain. Your additional help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
You will need to let the new wood season for a few months and then prep by cleaning and brightening.
I had a redwood deck and planter boxes constructed last Spring (2017). I used Behr Transparent Penetrating Oil Wood Finish on them. It was “Clear” as I wanted to keep the natural wood finish. It turned out awful, streaky, blotchy and the wood turned a yellow/golden color. I was told today that their product that they call “Clear” is not clear, but is designed to turn the wood to natural or without color. I am starting to sand it off, which is not as bad as I thought. Coming off pretty easy and for the most part back to the original redwood color. I don’t generally like the redwood stains as they look a little fake to me. I do like natural red cedar as well as the natural redwood. If I can find a color that I like in the AC line, will I be able to use it after I get done sanding and cleaning the wood, or should I sand, clean and leave until next Spring? I live in Reno, NV and the sun is very hot.
Thank You for your help with my questions
You should be okay to stain this year as long as you remove the current Behr coating.
Can I put this over oil based stain?
No. When switching brands you have to remove the current stain.
Can I put oil based stain over latex stain ???
No you cannot.
I have a covered exterior deck in northern ny. I have solid stain on the floor. I want to have it have a bit more of a sheen. Very dull flat looking. I was considering an oil base w sealant to apply over this. Will this work or not ??? Ty Sue
No, it will not work. You cannot apply a product like AC over a solid stain.
Looking to restain a 25-year-old cedar-sided house. Used Cabot Oil “chestnut” stain the first time some eight years ago. Worked great. The product is no longer sold here in Sonoma, CA. Looking at Armstrong to recover in a semi-solid. TWP – “fake oil” is a potential alternative contender. Any thoughts on coverage, warranty, hoter climate, going over weathered shingles…successfully. Doing it ourselves. thanks!
Not sure what you mean about “fake oil”? TWP is oil based 100%. Both the AC and the TWP 1500 would be excellent options for this. You will have to prep first to remove the Cabot. You cannot apply a different brand over the Cabot without removing first.
We live in Sonoma, CA also and have a cedar shingled house. Wondering what you ended up using and if you are happy with it. Did you do it yourselves? Thank you.
Hi. My husband and I live in San Francisco, California. We just completed construction of our redwood deck. We would like to maintain to look and well being of the wood for as long as possible. It seems like the more pigment a stain has, the more protection it provides. Does the AC Transparent Natural stain provide any protection? We like the natural look the most, but don’t want to compromise the structure of our deck in the long run, for lack of protection. Are solid or semi transparent stains better? Or are all the AC stains comparable, provided that we apply regular maintenance and upkeep at the two year mark? Thank you for you time and advice.
Natural colors has the least amount of colorant so it will fade the fastest from UV. The semi-solid colors will give the best UV protection in the Armstrong Clark.
Thank you.
I recently stained my deck with Armstrong Clark semi transparent deck stain. It needed a second coat but didn’t have time to put it on. If I apply another coat in the spring, when weather permits, what do I need to do to prep the deck first?
You will need to use a deck cleaner and lightly pressure wash the wood.
My question is: Just finished sanding my redwood deck down to bare wood. Had to replace a few boards with new wood. sanded all to 60 grit. smooth not rough cut. Most of the old redwood is still darker than the newer wood. Would it be best to let the deck go thru the winter and rain in the unfinished state? and use a cleaner and brightener in the spring and then stain? will letting the wood get wet effect the outcome? If I sand again will I have to wait again or will the cleaner and brightener open the pores enough to stain. Planning on using AC semi transparent stain
Yes, you can do this. No need to sand again in the Spring.
May be a novice question, what is the reason for finishing a deck in the spring vs any other time of year. I had been finishing my deck before the rains and winter each time in the fall. Have I been doing it wrong all along? I have been using Thompsens transparent woodland cedar on redwood and have to re finish every year. This is why I am going to try the Armstrong product this time on the horizontal floor boards. Live in California where the deck gets direct sunlight and many days over 100 degrees. Thank you and I will wait until spring.
Deck Restoration, in general, is a season thing. In the Winter the deck is not used that much so better to do in Spring so it looks great when you use it the most.
We are ready to paint front porch on our 117 yr old home. We have decided to use a wood stain on floor vs. painting for a few reasons. Our local hardware store recommended AC Wood Stain. We are having the floor professionally sanded to remove existing paint. We did have to replace a few boards on floor & my question is do we need to let them weather & wait until spring? They are kiln dried.
Yes it would best to let the wood weather Prep and stain all in the Spring. Sand this year.
Just want to clarify…suggesting we go ahead & have entire floor sanded, let it weather over winter & then clean, prep & stain in spring?
That is correct.
Would you explain why we should sand now? I guess I thought if we have to let new boards weather, we’d let floor as is & do sanding in spring too. Is there an advantage to having the existing boards exposed & weather also? Or better to leave whats left of paint on them? Appreciate the help!
Sanding right before staining would reduce penetration of the stain. Also you will have a better chance of blending the boards if you sand now, let weather and prep all in the Spring.
I have a question about applying AC semi solid stain. In your how to apply deck stain article you say “You can back brush the stain if you are using a roller, pad, or sprayer. Using a brush to even out the finish will give you better results. Once you have applied stain to several boards from end to end be sure the stain is soaking in. After 20-30 minutes wipe away any excess stain that is still puddled up or running and has not been absorbed. At that point, it is not going to be absorbed as the wood has soaked up all the stain it can. ”
However in this comment thread you tell people who say they ‘back brushed’ the AC during application and the color is transferring to feet, that they applied incorrectly and should not have ‘back wiped’ the stain. Can you clarify since you say you should both back brush and back wipe in your article that I quoted above. I plan on applying with either an airless sprayer or a pad. Should I stop there and not use a brush to even it out (back brush) and not wipe up excess stain (back wipe)?
Also I cleaned and brightened with RAD today and am waiting for 3 dry days to stain. I’m in the Pacific Northwest and it is likely it will rain the day after I stain, maybe even hours after I stain lol. Is that ok?
While applying you can back brush to ensure an even application while the stain is wet. What you cannot do is “back wipe” the stain to remove excess after say an hour or two. This will remove any curing oils so it will not “seal” properly.
When you are done applying, just leave it alone to soak in and cure correctly.
Ok, thank you for the clarification.
Also I cleaned and brightened with RAD today and am waiting for 3 dry days to stain. I’m in the Pacific Northwest and it is likely it will rain the day after I stain, maybe even hours after I stain lol. Is that ok?
Day after is fine. Hours later might be an issue.
Another question in reference to my original question. The rains came last year so I never stained. I just did today after cleaning and brightening earlier this week. I stained with AC and a pad this morning 4-5 hours ago, and there is definitely excess stain still puddling in many areas. Since I can’t back wipe per your earlier reply, how do I get the excess puddling stain off?
Should I just run a dry brush over the whole thing?
Leave alone until tomorrow and then back wipe if needed.
I did as suggested and back wiped except I used a dry brush on a pole. There wasn’t really much to wipe as by the time I did it, it has almost all soaked in except a few areas that had a bit of gummy surface oil that wiped up. However, now I have an even bigger problem! The day after I stained, it rained! The can of AC says rain is ok 60 minutes after stain penetration. This DID NOT turn out to be true. The stain is now blotchy where water sat. (I did sweep the beaded standing water off but it sat overnight first). I have worked so hard to get this dang deck stained and I am hoping I don’t have to strip and restain. What do I do to fix this?
Try a light coat to even it all out.
ok, I used my moisture meter and it came out at 7% so I went ahead and brushed on a light coat in a test area. That didnt work as the spots are still there. Does this mean I have to sand the finish off completely and re clean, brighten, and stain?
Yes.
crap
Picks of the stain I am referencing. Also one more question if I do need to brush up the excess stain do I wear socks or is OK to wear tennis shoes and will I leave tennis shoe tread marks all over if I do? I don’t want to mess up the stain by walking all over the wet areas and then tracking it elsewhere
You will not harm the stain when walking on it with shoes,
Hi, I have an eight year old redwood (half soft half heart) deck wrapped around our pool that was never finished. It was pressure washed a few times which caused the grain to show, a lot of splinters and hairline cracks. We are hiring someone to restore it this month and they want to sand it with different grades of grit and then apply the Armstrong clark stain, the stain being my choice by the way (they didn’t specify how, i.e. via brush or spray). Is this the best process for my situation? I see that you’re recommending the Gemini Restoration Kit a lot. Do you think it’s needed in my case?
Also I’m located in San Jose California and the weather here is pretty hot and dry for most of the year with a short rainy season and a week or two of frost during winter. I wonder if I made the right choice in stain given our particular weather.
Can you comment on the best way to refinish my deck as I have the company scheduled for work already and I want to make sure they do the best job possible.
Thank you so much for taking the time to respond, I really appreciate having a place like this to get knowledge straight from the pros. I appreciate any input, again, thank you very much.
Ligia
Pressure wash with a deck cleaner. Brighten all wood after and rinse well. Let dry and lightly sand if needed. Stain with the AC.
I am about to start re-staining my pine-sided house, approx. 2500 sq ft. It was last done with Sikkens Cetol oil-based stain and re-done a second time about 4 years ago. Peeling is an issue…. My plan is to palm sand the entire surface and to apply AC semi-solid to color match my new garage stain which is a Cabot Timber Oil – Jarrah Brown. I am hoping for a close-enough match and selected AC semi-solid Mountain Cedar and Woodland as samples for the match. The semi-solid option is due to color variation in areas that have peeled and those which have not. Once the color is selected, the plan would be to sand and stain one wall at a time. Is this a good plan? Or, am I missing a step? In addition to sanding (80/60/20 grit), do I need to wait before applying stain? Or, should I follow sanding with a cleaner as well? Should I power wash? If so, before or after sanding? Dry time before stain application if power washed?
Doing the job myself with 2 helpers…. early fall. I am in the woods in upstate NY. Thanks for any guidance that you may be able to provide. Bob
After the sanding, apply a deck cleaner and a wood brightener and then pressure rinse. This removes sand dust and opens the wood grain. Let dry for 48 hours.
we are doing a privacy screen out of cedar with cedar 4×4 posts cedar 2x4s and cedar 1×6 fence boards horizontally.
it is now the end of august and to wait the 3 month period to let the new cedar weather/age would take us to the beginning of december (winter weather).
would you advise us to install it and leave it outside for 8 months for warmer weather to return next spring before cleaning/brightening/staining or wait 1 to 1.5 months to stain before the cold weather hits us?
thanks in advance.
Is the fence wood rough sawn cut or smooth?
yes all of the cedar is of a smooth finish.
Wait until Spring then to prep and stain.
Hello we prepped our deck (power washed, deck cleaner and brightener) applied Armstrong semi-transparent stain onto dry neck using roller and brush. Stain dried fine. However once dry when we walk on the deck stain rubs off onto our feet. Two years later stain still rubs off on hands and feet. Wondering if we did not have stain mixed enough before applying? Ordered 5 gallon bucket. Two years later need to re-stain and want to make sure we are doing everything correctly so that the stain does not rub off this time.
You may have had issues with the prep not being done correctly and or back wiped off the drying oils which is a no-no.
It would be best to remove and start over. Strip and pressure wash. It will come off easily. Brighten all the wood after. Make sure to only apply the one coat and do not back wipe.
I have the same problem. The deck was 9 mos old. Used cleaner and brightened. Thoroughly rinsed both and waited til the next day to stain. 3months later I have powdered stain on the surface and increasing as the week’s pass. The first steps on carpet have ruined it.
Running your hand over the surface comes up brown in a few inches. How exactly foes this happen?
In your case, it could have been that the wood was still wet when you applied since it was next day. Typically 48 hours is the minimum to wait after prep or rain. I would contact AC directly and get his advice. Let us know what he says.
When I said turn black I mean black right into the wood. I mean mold you cannot wash off. That’s what happens in a damp climate with oil base stains
Not all brands of oil-based stains will have this issue as you mentioned. Certain ones like Penofin, Super Deck and Sikkens seem to have this issue as you mentioned.
I am about to redo a deck If I put on Armstrong deck finish will it turn black like all other oil deck stains I have used. The deck is on the north side of our house. It rains most of the winter here.
The stain does not darken in color but it cannot prevent dirt, etc from accumulating on top.
I completed installing a Western Red Cedar deck a month ago in southern Maine. I would like to use a semi transparent stain to allow the color and grain structure of the wood to remain visible. The weather has been cool and wet for the last month and looks as though it will continue that way for at least another week. How long should I wait before staining the wood? I have a moisture meter if that helps. I’m planning to lightly pressure wash prior to staining.
Dan, see this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
How do I tell if my Armstrong stain is still good?
Not sure what you are asking?
I bought a 5 gallon pail that I did not use all of 3 years ago when I last did my deck. I am asking if what is left over is still ok to use now that I’m redoing my deck? It was sealed pretty well and was in the basement so it did not freeze. It has separated but seems ok when I stir it up … how could I tell if it wasn’t good to use anymore?
If bad it would clump and have a jell on the surface. If good, you can tell if is mixes easily with a consistent smoothness. No clumps.
Thank you
I have a 5yr old mahogany and have used restore a deck and Armstrong stain each spring. Part of the deck is in shade and part in sun. How do I prevent the shaded area from having a build of stain. is the new Armstrong compatible with the previous mahogany stain.
You can strip and brighten for the prep when reapplying. You can use the new colors this way as well.