This post was updated on January 30, 2023
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Update 2023
The Armstrong Clark Wood stain has been a solid performer since we started reviewing and using it about 12 years ago. We really like how it penetrates deep into the wood grain and applies easily. Reapplication is simple as needed with a good deck cleaner for the prep. One thing we have noticed is to make sure you do not over apply. You want the AC to soak completely into the wood for the best results.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Review Below
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is an oil-based stain backed by 5 generations of experience in the exterior wood stain industry. Armstrong Clark is offered in 3 different versions: Trans parents, Semi-Transparent, and Semi-Solid Colors.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are composed of drying and non-drying oils that separate during the application process. The drying oils cure and protect the exposed surface of the wood from natural weathering and UV radiation while the non-drying oils condition the interior of the wood by lubricating the wood cellular structure.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
Armstrong Clark Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
– The Armstrong Clark showed a rich deep enhanced color after application. The natural grain of the wood showed throughout the deck surface. The Mountain Cedar color was a “tannish” cedar color.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Photos
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar offered better than average UV protection. When using a semi-solid stain we expected to achieve excellent UV protection and the Mountain Cedar delivered. We would expect that the semi-transparent and transparent colors to offer slightly less UV protection due to the lesser amount of solids.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain had little to no peeling. The only wearing of the stain was on the steps. This most likely was the result of the homeowner’s dogs.
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– Armstrong Clark sells for $41.99 per gallon for the semi-solids ($36.99 for semi-transparent). This is an average price for a quality deck stain. We found that Armstrong Clark has one of the best square foot coverages. For our 600 square foot test deck, we used only 2.5 gallons of stain for the required one coat. The final appearance was even with no noticeable bare spots.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 7
– The Armstrong stain did have some very minor mold spores on top of the stain. On further inspection, it seemed that the mold was not growing in the stain and could easily be wiped off with a wet towel.
Ease of Application: 9
– Extremely easy to apply! Armstrong’s manufacturer states that their stain can be applied in direct sunlight. We tested our application at 90 degrees in full sun. We did not experience any flash drying or unevenness of the stain. No noticeable drips on the vertical railings.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar darkened slightly in color from the original application. Most likely due to the high solid content of the semi-solid stain.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain would be an easy product to recoat after a light cleaning. The stain does not darken and penetrates extremely well. Key factors when it comes to reapplications.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.2
– Armstrong Clark performed at a high level after the two-year mark. Our favorite aspects of the stain were the ease of application and the coverage rate. There was very little to no peeling of the stain and color-shifting was acceptable. We would expect that applying a maintenance coat would be easy with a wood cleaning and wood brightening.
Product Information:
More Info: ArmstrongClarkStain.com
Cost: $51.99 per Gallon, $259.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Mountain Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain Review Video
Deck Stain Help & Questions
Stain Reviews & Comparisons
Products & Brands
- Cabot Problem Solver Wood Cleaner
- Sherwin Williams Oil Based Stain
- Flood Stain Reviews
- Behr Deck Over
- Behr Stain Remover
- Deck Correct Reviews
- Benjamin Moore Wood Stain
- Behr Transparent Waterproofing Wood Finish
- Sherwin Williams Deck Stain
- Cabot Australian Timber Oil
- Behr Deck Stain
- Rustoleum Rock Solid Deck
As an article and comment contributor to the site, Scott has been around the pressure washing industry since attending college. In 1993 he started his first company called Oakland Pressure Wash specializing in exterior pressure washing and deck staining. That company evolved into OPW L.L.C. shortly thereafter concentrating more on exterior wood and deck restoration. Scott and his Deck Cleaning Michigan company have restored over 10,000 decks in the Metro Detroit area since the early years. He has become an authority in the deck restoration industry and has contributed to numerous wood restoration forums and informative sites.
All the products he suggests through this site are sold through online sites and in retail stores, allowing the consumer to choose their own means of purchase. Scott’s eCommerce sites do sell many top brands he endorses and if you appreciate any of the help he has offered then feel free to purchase from one of them.
This is Natural Oak Stain. Looks amazing and was really easy to apply after cleaner/brightener!
Looks great!
We refinished our deck with AC semi-transparent Sierra Redwood in April 2020 and have been very happy with the results. It is still beading water but starting to show wear. Full Florida sun all year. I want to do a maintenance coat. I have the RAD brightener, but not the cleaner.
1. Can I use a different gentle cleaner, then the brightener, before I recoat?
2. After I use a cleaner, can I just wash off with the hose or do I need to pressure wash?
thanks!
1. No, you need a proper deck cleaner and then a brightener. Best to use the same brand with prep products.
2. Light pressure wash off. Hose off will not suffice.
Finished application of Stain Color:: Semi-Trans
Cedar on my rough sawn cedar fence about 6 hours ago, it feels dry to the touch now. -To me it doesn’t look like cedar color at all – It looks more like sort of a reddish brown and much darker than cedar. Is that normal? I’m not a fan at this point – Any chance it will lighten up soon so I can have a color somewhere around the posted color? I hope so. If it will.\, how long does it normally take?
Thank you much for your reply.
Colors will always vary based on wood type, age of the wood, prep of the wood, and application method. Colors do fade through the years.
Also, rough sawn wood always stains darker as it is much more absorbent then smooth wood. Armstrong does offer samples to test on your wood prior to ordering.
Which Graco X5 sprayer tip would you recommend for the Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain? I asked Armstrong and they said any fan tip would work. Just curious if you have an experienced suggestion.
Sorry but no idea. We don’t use airless sprayers for applying.
i sanded the deck to remove previous solid stain or paint – photo is post sanding, of a section of the deck. My question is, can I apply semi directly on it … or should I use a cleaner and/or brighter first? I’ve used rustic brown at our last house and really likes it. So I’m planning to use it on this deck. Thanks for your help. I appreciate all the info you provide.
The pic shows you still have a stain on the wood?
It was dark brown/reddish solid stain applied by the previous owner, that I sanded off. We got the house last spring and I’m told the deck is 12 yrs old. Would you suggest RAD deck stripper at this point? Or is there some other way to get the rest off?
I really wanted to go with AC rustic brown; it was so easy to apply and durable on our last house’s deck.
Would I be ok to use RAD stain stripper at this point to get the rest off? It was vey dark reddish brown colour that I sanded off. We got the house last year and the pt deck is about 11 yrs old. I wanted to use AC rustic brown. I used it on the deck of our last house and it was easy to apply and maintain.
Strippers will not remove a solid stain fully. It will remove some or possibly a lot but sanding will be needed to get it all off prior to using a semi-transparent like the AC stains.
Would you think it would be safe on the wood to apply the RAD stripper at this point (since I already sanded), and then sand again what it didn’t remove? Or would you recommend I keep sanding to remove as much as possible (without using the stripper)? I’d like to try an AC product and not put a solid. I appreciate your insight.
Strip what you can and then sand the rest off. Use both RAD Stripper additives as well.
Let me rephrase that. What tip orifice size did you use on the AC semi-transparent? Thank you in advance!
😀
We used a pump sprayer with a fan tip and they do not come in “orifice” sizes. Really any tip should work, just test a couple.
Hello, I’m looking to strip and stain my cedar deck. I will be using a stripper, brightened and sanding any furring with 80 grit sandpaper as my stain prep. Question is: having trouble deciding between Armstrong Clark (AC) black walnut and rustic brown. I want to go darker on my cedar. Do you have suggestions for choosing between the two colors? Any pictures? Thank you
Both are very nice colors. See here for some photos: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/armstrong-clark-photo-album
Those pictures are very helpful! In fact, I’m reconsidering going so dark to start and maybe finding a midway point. Maybe natural oak (on cedar). Based on the pics it looks nice. Plus, I can always go darker if needed. Thank you for your help!
what do you think of AC natural oak on cedar?
We like the Natural Oak color on all wood types.
Hi there! I have a yellow cedar deck and every semi transparent stain I have ever chosen always ends up looking bright orange in the sunlight (but fine in the shade). I have always used Sikkens (now Sico Proluxe). I am looking for a simple light or medium brown stain but don’t know how to avoid this orange undertone. Once again I have my deck cleaned, stripped of old stain, sanded and ready to go….and I don’t want to make the same mistake yet again! I am in British Columbia. Thanks in advance!
Try Armstrong Clark or TWP 200 Series in a brown color.
Rustic Brown in the Armstrong is a great brown color.
Can you post pictures? We have a cedar deck and every stain we have used so far our deck ends up amber colored. I’m tired of it and looking to go more brown.
I have an idea but I don’t want to do anything wrong.. We bought our house 3 years ago and our deck is in ruff shape. Where do I start? Clean and brighten or stripping. Pressure wash, sand then stain? Thank you
Clean and brighten while pressure washing. No need to sand. Stain after.
I applied AC semi trans Natural oak on my cedar deck in July 2021. I am seeing quite a bit of wear/tear at our entrance already in February 2022 (6 months). Is there anything I can do to prevent this in the future? Or is this the reality of a semi trans stain on a softwood cedar deck?
Looks like you have a lot of traffic there so it is wearing. Also shoveling the deck will damage the stain as well.
Not much you can do to prevent this. Best to just clean and recoat the floors as needed. The rails will last many years.
Ok — thanks. Hoped it would hold up a little better but entrance and snow in VT is our reality!
If I have to RAD clean and stain this one horizontal area once every Spring, what is best method? (Circled in photo). Meticulously garden pump spray of RAD clean so as not to hit other areas? When I have done in the past RAD clean always seems to remove most of the stain as well as clean — try less of a concentration? Less scrubbing?
Thanks.
Yes, you can use the cleaner at 1/2 strength and wash with a soft brush like a car wash brush.
Thank you so much. Just 4 follow-up questions:
1) To clarify, RAD bag says “mix 2/3 to 1 cup powdered cleaner per gallon of water.” I would assume 1/2 strength of their lower end suggestion might be wise, correct? Therefore, 1/3 cup per gallon?
2) I am also thinking applying the solution from a bucket to the wet deck using soft brush will avoid pump sprayer overspray onto other areas like my vertical railings. Would that be your suggestion?
3) I assume I will have to clean the outer deck rim joist (even though it doesn’t need new stain) first so I don’t get cleaning drip marks running down from the horizontal deck surface. Or will the lower concentration of cleaner make that a non-issue?
4) if I also want to do a light clean of the rest of the deck in the spring would you recommend a product like “wet n’ forget?” Something else?
Thanks again. -Chris
1. Yes.
2. No, just control your spray when applying. Much easier. We never mop on prep products.
3. Not sure, could have runs on side.
4. No. Wet and Forget does not clean. Use mild dish soap and warm water.
Great. Thank you. As always, super helpful.
I used a “boat brush” — maybe little stiffer than car wash brush? It still looked like I was removing a bit of stain at the reduced concentration of RAD cleaner. Does this look okay for sting and then staining with a cot or two?
First pictures are of how much stain was coming off and final pictures were after a little scrubbing and then rinsing.
Thank you.
Hard to say while wood is wet.
Will take a picture when it is dry — stain seemed to loosen up inconsistently even though I applied and scrubbed evenly with 1/2 concentration — hope that is okay. I’m always confused why the stain gets removed at all with just a cleaning.
It is normal.
Here is the dry deck after RAD clean and brighten — stain a little unevenly removed but sounds like that might be okay?
When you previously said stain removal is normal with cleaning I wasn’t sure if that was also referring to it being removed inconsistently also being normal. Is it?
As long as you are using the same or darker color then it will blend. Prepping and how much comes off during cleaning is determined on how the stain has deteriorated through the years. No deck cleaner will just leave a stain completely intact unless the stain was just applied.
This AC semi trans natural oak stain has only been on deck for half a year — we are redoing because it wore off so significantly near our door where we walk (and have to shovel during VT winters). As shown in pics at start of thread.
Would an AC semi solid like Oxford Brown be any more durable (than the AC semi trans natural oak)? Does the soft nature of cedar factor in?
Recoating yearly is a tough pill to swallow when it involves all the prep and work. Not to mention not using that door for the few days it take me to time prep, staining, and weather window shenanigans.
I so appreciate all your insight. Even the one liners 🙂
A semi-solid will give better UV protection from fading but will not matter with wear and tear, especially shoveling.
Honestly our walking is what does the majority. I shovel just as much in other areas and they haven’t worn at all.
Guess we need trex or something synthetic for our entry if we don’t want to stain every season.
Thanks again — doing this today.
I am planning to skip the brightening as I am just doing a maintenance coat in this one area pictured above. It sounded like that is okay and I’ll just rinse well after a gentle scrub of the restore a deck cleaner.
and hopefully stain in a few days if the weather cooperates!
You need to brighten to neutralize the cleaner and restore the pH balance.
I thought for maintenance coat one could just clean and stain — that is what I was told before.
Well, deck has stayed wet with light rain solid that is helpful. If you are saying it must be brightened, hopefully a couple hours later is okay?
Yes, that is okay.
I like the color. Would you describe it as a medium brown on the cedar? Hard to tell in photos.
I just wanted to suggest an outdoor rug for the high traffic area might cut down on the wear and tear by the door.
Yes, I think it would be accurate to call the Natural Oak semi trans a medium brown.
Thanks for the suggestion — I think an outdoor rug on the high traffic area could help! I think the winter grit from our gravel driveway probably does the most damage.
Well, a deck is meant to be used so…
I just ordered a sample of the natural oak to try. I like the color on your deck. Thanks for sharing your pictures
Right?! Well, I want to use it but not have to stain it once a season — I could even handle once a year!
The combo of soft cedar and high traffic is no match for Vermont winters.
We have a full log white cedar house that is about 30 yrs old. We have been using TWP on it for about 7 yrs now. For the most part it has worked great. We get 3 yrs on the deck (full sun in Michigan) and 4 to 5 yrs on the walls. The west wall get the most weather and full sun so that needs it every 4 yrs. Do you thnk AC would do better?
Not better, about the same.
hi, have older deck that i tteated with cabot gold oil 3 years ago. i powerwashed it last year using a cleaner and in places a stripper as the person i hired had npot removed the previous dark stain.
it went thr this past year with nothing but i noticed a lot of mildew and black spots.
i then used paramonts deck cleaner but having read the lack of waterproofing decided to use cabot again so cleaned with theirs. I also stripped a few previously stained areas that had been missed.
Now I see mildew in the grain and sanding with a palm sander has not removed it. Its hard to know what to do at this poin t, but I thought to ask you before I try anything else.
I live in Iowa . Half my deck is full sun , the rest has some shading from the house.
I am exhausted from doing all this and still have unsighyly green and black mold stains…help!!
Post some pictures below your comments.
I just had my deck re-built. All except a couple of posts were replaced. The old posts have a solid stain. I would like to stain the rest of the deck. How long do I need to wait and what is the best way to treat the wood so that the stain lasts and what is the best stain to use?
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
We bought a house that has a nice front porch. The deck, railings, and spindles are pressure treated wood, unsealed and probably 10-15 years old. All the materials are in good shape, give or take a couple of areas that are easily replaced. Can we stain this older untreated PT wood?
Yes. The Armstrong stain would work very well. Make sure to prep well.
hi, I built a IPE Deck last summer. I would like to seal it with clear sealer. 250 sq ft. please recommend a product.
Look at one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
My 5 yr.-old mahogany deck has had 2 applications of Arborcoat water-based semi-transparent stain applied (2 1/2 yrs. since the last application) and it’s now flaking is spots and needs to be re-stained. I am thinking of switching to use Armstrong’s Amber semi-transparent oil-based Hardwood deck stain, and ask what deck preparation is needed to apply the new semi-transparent oil-based stain over the old semi-transparent water-based stain? Is power-washing recommended, plus orbital sanding? Is any other solvent needed? I want to make sure the deck is “prepped” correctly for best results. Also, should I expect that I will have to re-stain every 2 years, or will your oil stain last longer than the water-based stain I was using? Thanks for any info.
Post a picture.
Here’s the deck at present.
Strip and brighten this for prep. Your wood type requires an annual application.
here’s the deck in current condition…
This is the best stain product by far. We’ve used it on both our current and prior home. Each with two levels of decking over 1200 sf. We made sure the wood was correctly prepared, clean and dry. It’s important to thoroughly mix the stain before starting the day for even coating. We were very impressed with the quality of the product, from the application to the durability and look years after. Both our decks face south east. We live in Michigan.
Hello. I am new to deck repairs. We purchased a house 3-years ago but have not done any maintenance to it. We are finding some rotted deck boards that I’m replacing now. The deck is 8 ft. above ground, 16 ft. X 20 ft. made of PT pine. All deck boards are grey and splitting. I have done some research on oils, restoring, and sealing product. I’m sold on Armstrong Clark Semi-Trans stain because of the non-drying oils to help the wood.
We live in a wooded/wilderness area and try to use natural Products.
1. What type of cleaners can I safely use?
2. What do cleaners do to the wood?
3. I’ve never used stain, do I apply it like paint to cover all cracks and hide all view of wood?
4. My deck is old and very dry, how will I know if my deck needs to drink up a second coat and when should it be applied?
5. Since your stain has drying oils that stay on top of wood and non-drying oils that soak down into the wood, how can non-drying oils get through that top non-drying oils when I re-coat?
6. Can I stain posts and get the oils to soak in?
Thank you for your help.
You have a solid stain on your deck and you cannot apply the AC over it and it cannot be stripped off. You will need a solid stain again. Look at one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hi, I just moved into a new house about 2 months back and the deck (screened in porch) was installed around dec/jan time frame. It’s pine wood. I am wondering if AC transparent stain will be a wise option since we dont want to add color to the deck and like the natural color or lighter tone. The deck is covered so wondering if transparent will hold up well for some years. Other option seems like semi- transparent natural oak but it your pictures it looks very dark.
Yes, that should work.
so transparent?
Yes, if that is the look you want.
and any suggestions on water based stain
Restore-A-Deck stains.
also any recommendations for just a sealer for pine?
They rate Armstrong Clark and Twp 1500 top rated stains and I know you speak highly of both , but if you were doing your deck and had to use one and only one which one would it be?
Both are excellent and I have used both on my personal deck. Here is AC Natural Oak after 3 years.
They rate Armstrong Clark and Twp 1500 best stains and I know you speak highly of them both , but if you were doing your deck and had to use one and only one which one would you use??
Can a second coat of the Armstrong Semi solid stain be applied? First coat on a 18 year old deck was absorbed and some areas appear lighter than others. Deck was stripped down to bare wood before applying.
Yes, just make sure it is a light coat.
What is your best oil stain for a mahogany deck? I used Australia timber oil natural, and it turned my brand new deck brown. It looks horrible. Thanks David
Try the Armstrong Clark in Amber.
Is a waterproof sealer required following the stain? Who sells this Armstrong Clark product?
You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain. No need as well. Check with Armstrong Clark for dealers or where to buy online.
I have a built a new western red cedar dock (to be installed over freshwater) and I am not sure if it is better to go with a “transparent” Armstrong Clark stain or a “semi-transparent” variant. The deck gets a decent amount of sun exposure, so I would prefer a good amount of UV protection, but without changing the natural red cedar color of the wood too much. Thoughts? Many thanks.
Semi-transparent colors will give better UV protection. See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thanks so much for the help.
I am in the northeast with hard winters. My cedar deck is 20 years old. I have replaced bad dry rotted boards over the years. I haven’t been steady w oil treatment for the cedar. Should I wait till winter is over before pressure washing and staining w Armstrong? I wouldn’t stain till early spring at this time so I guess I should wait on the pressure wash too.
Best to prep and stain in the Spring at this point.
Thank you.
Hello!
I just bought two gallons of AC semi transparent cedar and I’m planning on applying tomorrow. I don’t have a sprayer so I can either roll it or use a brush. What is the recommended method of application?
Thanks! Love the site
Use a deck stain pad or brush for best results.
How will the stain perform on old cedar wood
Works great for older wood.
Hello. I have a 25+ year old redwood deck, that is in pretty good condition but needed to replace some boards. The installed replacement boards are of pressure treated wood rather than redwood (not my choice, but was what my husband was advised to do.) We have power washed the deck so far and plan to strip and brighten the deck before staining it. I have a couple of questions I am hoping you can advise on:
1. How should we best prep the deck? After reading reviews, we plan to use Restore a Deck drip and brightening.
2. With two different woods now on the deck, what stain do you recommend — semi-solid or solid?
3. Which best rated semi-solid and solid stains stains come with the most color options, particularly in dark gray (which seems to be harder to come by) and dark brown?
4. We found Benjamin Moore Arborcoat grey stains, either in semi-solid or solid, but I am concerned with using it, after seeing the low rating review. What would you keep in mind for this brand’s stains?
5. Do you have any other suggestions we should consider?
Thank you!
1. Strip and brighten.
2. Solid stain.
3. Solid stains can be custom mixed to any color you want.
4. We would not use the Arborcoat.
5. Try Flood Solid Stains ore Defy Extreme Solid Stains.
Thank you. Can you explain further why you recommend a solid stain for my situation. You proposed Flood or Defy Solid stains…is that because per my questions they offer more color options? Would you alternatively use Restore a Deck solid if I were to find a color with them? How long do I need to have the new solid weathered before I stain. I’d like one with the least amount of lead time needed, as I need to stain soon. For maintaining the solid stain what can I expect to encounter. Thanks.
A solid stain will blend all the wood better. RAD Solids work great as well. Clean and reapply as needed down the road. Every 2-4 years.
Thank you! For the stripper and brightener, is it best to use the same brand as the stain we choose? Or, just a quality stripper and brightener?
Same brand.
Not a good experience with Armstrong Clark. Cleaned and prepped a new pressure treated pine deck floor (aged 1 year) with Restore-a-Deck product to specifications, including 3 days to dry. Stained with Armstrong Clark Driftwood Grey with quality brushes . Deck is 15′ up with railings and fascia boards stained with Cabot Solid white. Had to do extensive taping and wiping with mineral spirits since stain is very watery and gets all over the fascia boards with this two tone approach. Instructions on AC stain product calls for bleach and dish soap cleaner, which upon further research does not need neutralizer (or brightener on new wood), and yet there is some follow on paragraph about using a neutralizer with unspecified cleaner. These facts can only be obtained by extensive search on Armstrong Clark. Furthermore, there is a buried document which states that acid based cleaners are not recommended for Driftwood Grey, which does not appear in any of their current documentation. Since we didn’t know this, we used the Restore-a-Deck and stained with Driftwood Grey, with the result that there is virtually no color: in the daylight it looks almost like raw boards. Armstrong Clark was ambiguous about what to do. They claimed we could put another coat (wet-on-dry) , or if we waited until next Spring (and generally for maintenance coats) that we did not need to do anything but a light wash with dish soap. This contradicts there own written recommendations in places, and also sites such as this, which don’t recommend wet-on-dry second coats and do recommend always cleaning and neutralizing/brightening before applying stain. There is so much contradictory information about how to clean and with what, whether to neutralize/brighten, whether to use wet-on-wet or wet-on-dry and how long one can wait between coats for the latter, whether additional coats will darken or only protect, and so on. Very unclear what to do now as the deck has no color whatsoever, we are two days past staining, and there is rain.
We have never heard of or seen anything in person like this before. We personally have used the driftwood gray color after using a brighener numerous times with no issues. The Brighener would not be the cause of little to no color showing as it is not possible for that to wash out the color. It would be more or less be the wood itself and they way it is taking the stain. We would suggest taking their advice by adding another coat now or in the Spring. Their product is one of the few that can be applied both wet and wet and wet on dry.
Thanks for your reply. Still unclear about the following.
1. Suppose I want to apply new coat now. It has rained and is puddling. The stain has increased the puddling from the rain. Do I go out there and try to sweep the water off? There is tree detrius in the puddles which will smear if I do that. And if I wait 2 days after it dries out, it may be 2 weeks or maybe more after the initial stain since there is more rain on the way . Also, if it is dirty, should I wash it again?
2. Suppose I want to apply new coat in Spring. Do I follow Armstrong Clark recommendation of light was with dish soap, or do I use bleach or some other cleaner and brightener? Also, do I need enough stain for 2 coats?
1. After rain stops you could lightly broom off the water so it dries faster. Maybe a leaf blower will be better so no debris is smeared. You can still stain two weeks later if for some reason it takes that long. If dirty, lightly rinse with water.
2. Light wash with soap. Just one coat.
Hello – I have an at grade pressure treated fir deck, almost 10 years old. Part of it is under an overhang and the rest is very wet all winter (Pacific Northwest). I used Thompson’s water seal to poor results in the early years. Unhappy with the performance, I wanted to do a switch. I was told since Thompson’s contains a wax, to let the deck weather for a couple of years so it comes out of the wood, then sand (80 grit) and use an oil based better quality product instead. I’ve left it for three summers and I’m sanding it now. I want to use AC semi-transparent in oak. Once I’ve sanded, do I still need to strip and use a cleaner? And how long between sanding / prep and staining does there have to be in order to have good penetration with the AC product? Many thanks for your helpful site!
Clean and brighten after the sanding. This will allow the AC to soak in better. Wait 48 hours to stain after.
Thank you!!
Hi,
We are building our deck with a treated cedar frame and railings, while using Trex for the decking. Im leaning towards using the Armstrong’s semi transparent stain for all the treated wood, aswell as using Vycor deck protector tape on top of all the joists. Would this be a combination that you would recommend? Are there any other brands of stains that you would preferably use on new wood? Should I use the tape, and if so, stain before I apply the tape?
Thanks,
Sean
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
You cannot stain it now so if you want to use the tape, do that first. The underside or joists do not need to be stained anyhow.
Hello,
I have powersanded my PT pine deck to remove the Behr solid stain it had on it and have RAD cleaner & brightener ready to go. I also purchased Armstrong Clark rustic brown deck stain. Unfortunately, the weather report is saying there is ~50% of thunderstorms from 9am until 9pm Wednesday. Thursday is looking to be 84F and mostly sunny.
1. Can I use RAD cleaner & brightener on wet wood after the storms have passed on Wednesday?
2. If yes to #1, would the deck be ready to stain Thursday evening (~6pm) after drying all day (84F & mostly sunny)?
3. If yes to #2, can I put back my deck furniture / grill on Friday afternoon/evening? Will that be enough time for everything to absorb fully?
1. Yes.
2. Typically 48 hours after prep or rain to let the wood dry, not the next day.
3. Depends on if it is fully dry. Hard to say.
I have an old deck that I want to stain and am interested in AC. I pressure washed and then lightly sanded. Am I ready to use the semi solid stain or need to do more prep like the brightener? Thanks very much.
You should be okay to stain.
Thanks. 2 boards are new as I had to replace due to water damage. Should they be treated differently than the old boards?
Since only 2, go ahead and prep and stain the same. Those boards will need another coat though in about 9-12 months.
Hello,
I have a year old redwood deck that I sanded with 120 grit sandpaper and prepped with Armstrong Clark cleaning then brightening using a power washer. My first attempt at power washing got most but not get all the gray out so I then put more cleaner on and scrubbed with a stiff bristle brush and then brightened again. Oh so beautiful. I’ve now read that 60 or 80 grit sandpaper is preferred for deck prep. I’m staining with Armstrong Clark transparent stain cedar tone. Will the 120 grit sandpaper hurt things or am I good?
Thanks for your help,
David
The stain will not absorb well, reducing the proper curing and longevity. Let it weather naturally for 1-2 months and then clean and brighten for prep. No more sanding.
Hi can the ac semi transparent stain in driftwood be tinted to make it a little darker. Thanks
Nope.
My B Grade redwood deck is about 12 years old and I would like to sand and stain this spring. Your suggestions would be appreciated.
After you have prepped your deck for stain i.e., (using cleanser and brightner), I know you are supposed to wait at least 2 days to apply stain. My question is how long can your deck go without staining after you have prepped it?
Try to stain within 14 days of the prep.
Looking at the AC Semi-Solids. These are the only colors I can find that appear to be dark enough and closest Match to my other deck which has Olympic Maximum in a tinted Tobacco Color (dark brown with a hint of red tones).
BUT … I just saw on the AC site (armclark dot com) that for the Semi-Solids it says: NOT for wood less than 1 year old / NOT for sitting surfaces or furniture / NOT for playground equipment. What?
Ok Perhaps I understand “less than a year old” although my deck will be 3-5 months old when i stain it (new wood that I will prep), but what is up with Not for Sitting Surfaces or Furniture? So am I stuck with the Semi-Transparent colors?
Right now I have a sample of the AC ST Rustic Brown which in the pic looks close to where I need to be, but applied it is very transparent and more red than brown. Also, this product seems to go on and just sit on the wood and not soak in. I tested it on 10 year old lightly sanded but not washed deck plank. It pooled on the top and got spots. I am assuming Mill Glaze?
Also tried the RAD Dark Oak sample on the same board. It soaked in much much better upon application, but was basically the same color and the darkest color available from RAD
I also have a sample of TWP Dark Oak 100 series, but not holding out much hope on the color.
Where can I get a Dark Color? I guess the AC Semi-Solids are out for my use (deck with steps and chairs). AC says I can mix colors, but could I mix the Rustic Brown ST with a darker semi s0lid. or perhaps there very dark Black Walnut Transparent … or just use that alone, but it too may be too light?
Here are the samples I have so far. Pic #3, RAD on Left in Dark Walnut (bottom same) / Center AC Semi-Trans Rustic Brown (bottom same not dry) / Far Right Olympic Maximum Semi-Trans Tobacco (where I’m trying to be). I have an older deck in back and staining 2 newer decks in front. Trying to match them close but not perfectly. And I dont want to use the Olympic if I dont have to.
Pic #1 is where it is going. Pic #2 is the deck Im trying to match, but one is in the front of the house the other in the back so it does not have to be perfect.
Any ideas? If I do a 2 coats will it darken? Or will the same color darker a year later in a refresh?
You can only apply one coat to new wood and yes the AC suggests waiting a year for their semi-solids. I would go with Black Walnut semi-transparent in AC. One coat this year and another in 12-18 months if needed.
Do not mix AC semi-trans and semi-solid for wood that is less than 1 year old.
Just got a sample of the Black Walnut Semi-Transparent. I looks pretty good. I like it Better than the Olympic Max because it is not laying on top of the wood (like paint) and you can actually see nice wood grain thru it. So the AC Blk Wlnt will work for the first year. Also got a sample of the Oxford Brn and Espresso. The Espresso is almost exactly the color I want (but even being a Semi-Solid, it is not much diff than the AC Semi-Transparent).
But following your lead and advice on the AC Semi-Solids, I will go with the Blk Wlnt for the first year or so, and then when I do the refresher coat, if I even want the other color (I may end up loving the Blk Wlnut), but if not, i will at that time, in 12-18 months go with the Espresso Semi-Solid over the Blk Wlnt.
Thanks for the help. Now to wait a few more months before i can stain the new decks. Did get a moisture meter. As of 2 days ago. Most of the tops of the wood on the decks is down to 9-14%. So it is getting close to ready. Few places were at 14-18% (under hand rails, etc). So hope to have it all stained by early June.
Here is my sample plate. Lone 2×4 is where I am trying to be – Olympic Maximum Tobacco.
Full aged deck board shot Left to Right: AC Semi -S Oxford Brn / AC Semi-S Espresso / TWP Dark Oak / AC Semi-T Blk Wlnut / RAD Drk Wlnut / AC Semi-T Rustic Brown
Close up Right to Left: AC Semi-S Espresso / TWP Dark Oak / AC Semi-T Blk Wlnut
I’ll do Blk Walnut on the new wood decks this year and Espresso next year.
I actually like the TWP as a product better. Seemed to go on better than the AC, but the Dark Oak is the darkest color I saw from TWP
Completing the construction of adding a new redwood railing ( top/bottom rail approx. 50 ft. total and two 4 -step stairs ). I desire to retain the natural color. Since construction began the wood has discolored slightly due to the weather. Upcoming forecast here in So. Cal is rain from Wednesday 3/20 – 22/2019. My research on the best solution for treating the redwood has rendered the following; No Varnish/Urethane or Oil based finish with the exception of Quality oil-based finishes, including those based upon linseed oil, containing mildewcides, and are appropriate for use on exterior redwood. With this information what would you recommend for recapturing and retain the natural hue of the wood?
Thank you!
Marvin
Armstrong Clark would work very well for this. Any color that you like.
See this for tips on new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I applied the Armstrong Clark semi transparent stain in the color chestnut about 2 years ago. Part of my deck is covered all summer and that part has maintained the color rather well. But the other part of the deck is exposed to sun and has little stain left on them. I want to reapply the same color this year. Do I just have to use a cleaner and brightener then stain, or since there is such a variation of color on the boards should I do something else in addition to using a cleaner and brightener.
Can you post a picture showing the variation?
Here’s the pics
Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and then the wood brightener while pressure washing for the prep of all the wood.
I guess I don’t understand what you mean. Do you mean I need to put the cleaner in my pressure washer then do the same thing with the brightener.
Directions are on the prep containers. They are used while pressure washing but not in the pressure washer.
My name is Mikki Hopkins. I asked a question a hour ago and can’t open your response. Thanks.
The response is above, asking for a picture.
These are the pics.
I sent you pics. Hope you got them.
Hi, what’s the prep needed to apply a second coat of stain? We stained our newly built fence last summer and would want to apply a second coat this year for added protection.
Clean and brighten the wood for the prep. Try the Restore A Deck prep kits.
I live in California, 1 hour north of San Francisco. I have a 650 sq. ft. redwood clear heart deck built in Oct. 2016. It was sanded and stained 2 weeks after completion with 1 coat of Super Deck transparent “Cedar 1901”. Seven months later, on May 30, 2017, it was washed 3 times with Super Deck exterior wood cleaner and stained with 1 coat of Super Deck transparent
“Cedar 1901”. Approximately 6 weeks later, on July 10, 2017, it was stained again for the 3rd time with Super Deck transparent “Cedar 1901”. No deck cleaner was used and no other preparation was done prior to this last staining on July 10, 2017.
I want to try using an Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain, hoping for better color retention and I would like to be able to still see the wood grain. Since I could not stain the deck this summer, I will wait until next spring. Can you tell me the correct preparation to use before staining with Armstrong Clark? Also, should 1 or 2 coats of stain be applied?
I spoke recently with Armstrong Clark Customer Support about this semi-transparent stain. Part of my deck is shaded and is prone to get mold. They recommended a product called “Wet and Forget” which can be sprayed onto the deck and should help prevent mold. Do you know anything about this product and can you recommend it?
Thank you very much for your help!
You will need to remove the Super Deck first. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. Let dry for a few days apply the AC. How many coats depends on how porous your wood is.
Thank you. Will I need to power wash and sand the deck in this process? If so, when would I power wash and when would I sand? Will the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener Kits give me more specific directions? Can you give me any special tips to using these two kits? Do you know anything about the “Wet and Forget” mold inhibitor product recommended by Armstrong Clark Customer Support?
You pressure wash while using the stripper. No need to sand. Yes the RAD products have directions. Best to read them for help in using their products. Wet and Forget does not work that well.
Thank you for your advice! The same person at Armstrong Clark Customer Support who recommended “Wet and Forget” also told me I could buy a tube of mildewcide to mix into each gallon of stain. Does this sound like good advice to prevent mold?
I just interviewed a painter who has agreed to stain my deck in the spring. He told me that he power washes while using a deck cleaner and then sands the deck. He said that because cleaning and power washing raise the grain of the wood, sanding is necessary to smooth it out before staining. I will follow your advice and ask him to use a stripper and brightener to remove the old SuperDeck stain on my deck. What could happen if he insists on sanding afterwards? Should I insist that he not sand the deck at all? If my deck appears to need a second coat of stain, what should the painter do before applying the second coat?
I was happy with the initial color of the SuperDeck transparent “Cedar 1901” stain. It brought out the natural color of the redwood without overwhelming it or making it too red. Can you recommend a color in the Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stains which might do the same? What is the best way to test the color of an Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain? My painter suggested doing a color test on my deck steps. How could I remove the testing colors from the steps before staining the deck?
My deck gets very dirty and is surrounded by trees and exposed to pollen. How can I clean it over time without damaging the applied stain?
Thank you once again. I really appreciate your help!
We applied per the directions about 10 days ago Spray then rolled out. No puddles, etc. It’s slick. Help.
That means it was over applied and possibly not prepped correctly. Try rinsing the excess stain off with a pressure washer. If that does not fully remove the excess stain, use mineral spirits and rags to wipe down the entire deck. Very important to saturate all oily rags in water when done and lay flat outside to dry. This avoids accidental spontaneous combustion.
Had redwood Deck stained last year with a cheap transparent product, it has failed and I want to apply an oil based Mahogany from Armstrong and Clark, I am sanding the old stain and now the wood looks good to apply an oil stain, what about areas under the deck that are hard to reach, if I can get sand paper to it, will oil stain adhere to the wood