This post was updated on January 18, 2023
Flood Pro Series Solid Color Stain Review
Flood Solid Stain Review 2023
This is our initial Review of the Flood Pro Series Solid Color Wood and Deck Stain. This review will be updated throughout the years. As contractors, we have been using the Flood Pro Series as one of our top solid stain choices for the last 10 years when a solid stain is needed over a semi-transparent. There are new and better brands of solid stains coming into the market, but the Flood is a decent choice.
We appreciate your input. If you have used the Flood Solid Color Deck stains, feel free to leave a comment below and pictures of your completed projects.
Flood Pro Series Solid Color Stain Review
Summary: Flood Pro Series Solid Color Stain is an advanced stain and sealant in one that protects wood from moisture and sun damage while adding rich, opaque color. A 100% acrylic formula provides excellent adhesion and durability. Urethane-fortified to resist cracking and peeling. Rain resistant finish within 12 hours. Powerful UV absorbers protect against fading and UV damage. It provides a mildew-resistant finish.
Flood Solid Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 9
– We used the Flood Pro Series Solid Color Stain in white. Very easy to apply and the overall appearance when dry was excellent with a nice matte opaque look.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 7
–After 2 years, there was a small amount of wear on the floors but no peeling.
Cost Per Square Foot: 8
– We applied two coats to our 450 sq. feet of verticals that included all railings and steps. 4 Gallons were used at a cost of $46 per gallon.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9
– A small amount of mildew was present under the tree but overall, there were not any issues with mildew, algae or mold.
Ease of Application: 8
– We like how the Flood Pro Series Solid Color Stain applies and adheres to the wood. We always use a roller and brush when applying. Dries fast and can take moderate rain in a few hours.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 7
– Clean by pressure washing and a deck cleaner. Reapply 1-2 coats or as much as needed.
Overall Score Flood Pro Series Solid Color Stain at 1 Year Period: 8.0
– Flood has always made a better than average solid color deck stain. We have been using it for 10+ years and have not seen any degradation in performance. It is one of our top solid stain brands, with just a slightly lower score than the Restore-A-Deck Solid Stain.
Product Information
Where to Buy: Select Higher End Paint Stores
Cost: $45.99 per Gallon, $119.99 per 2.5 Gallon Pail, $199.99 per 5 Gallon Pail. Products ship free on their website.
Stain Type: Solid Color (Opaque) Wood Stain – Water Based
Available Custom-Mixed Solid Colors: Tintable to over 120 colors
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats
Coverage Per Gallon: 250-350 sq. ft
Application Tools: Airless Sprayer, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 2-4 Hours
Cleanup: Water
VOC Compliant: 50 VOC Compliant in all States
Manufacturer: Flood – PPG
Test Deck Stats
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 450 Square feet
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: White
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Deck Stain Help & Questions
Stain Reviews & Comparisons
As an article and comment contributor to the site, Scott has been around the pressure washing industry since attending college. In 1993 he started his first company called Oakland Pressure Wash specializing in exterior pressure washing and deck staining. That company evolved into OPW L.L.C. shortly thereafter concentrating more on exterior wood and deck restoration. Scott and his Deck Cleaning Michigan company have restored over 10,000 decks in the Metro Detroit area since the early years. He has become an authority in the deck restoration industry and has contributed to numerous wood restoration forums and informative sites.
All the products he suggests through this site are sold through online sites and in retail stores, allowing the consumer to choose their own means of purchase. Scott’s eCommerce sites do sell many top brands he endorses and if you appreciate any of the help he has offered then feel free to purchase from one of them.
In a one gallon sprayer, what is the thinning ratio of water to product to ensure flow in the sprayer without causing the stain to become more opaque?
You cannot thin a deck stain with water. Solid stains will not work in a pump sprayer.
Can Flood solid stain be used on pressure treated wood? Also can it be used on new wood
Yes, on pressure-treated wood. All new wood should be weathered and prepped before a stain is applied:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I applied RAD solid stain 2 years ago after an extensive prep job which included sanding to remove 90% plus of the prior finish. There are currently no signs of peeling. The decking does have small fissures. I am wondering if I should wait another year, wait until I do see some peeling, or do a preemptive recoat this summer. When doing the recoat what do you recommend as prep, and should I do a light resand to promote layer to layer adhesion?
Another year will be okay.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
What is the address of the MFG of Flood deck stain. Need to order in the future. Thank you
No idea.
I have been using / applying Flood CWF wood preserver annually for probably 20 years. It doesn’t soak in anymore and the finish only lasts about 6 months. Can I apply a Flood Pro Series on top of the CWF? (The deck boards are still in good shape)
Probably but make sure all peeling and loose stain is removed first.
Thank you! I appreciate the quick response.
We flipped the boards of our deck and are looking for a stain that will cover this… what do you recommend? We live in the Midwest so our weather can go from -40° up to 100°.
Any of these solid stains will work well: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
I would love you input. I have a deck that is past it’s prime. I need to use a solid stain or a paint. I have heavy wrought iron patio furniture that’ll be dragged across it. What would you recommend?
thank you,
Penny
Restore-A-Deck Solid Color Deck stains. Make sure to prep first.
Thank you. I’m grateful for your suggestion. I just ordered it.
we plan on renting a sander and washing it with TSP. Do you think that’s enough if a prep?
We would use a deck cleaner and wood brightener after sanding to open up the pores: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
One last question. Would you recommend a favorite deck cleaner or should I go with RAD’S cleaner? Ok…one MORE question. Why a deck brighter if I’m using a solid stain? As it’ll cover the wood grain
Use the RAD prep products. You use the brightener to neutralize the cleaner so the wood’s pH is neutral.
I neglected to mention the sprayer is an air compressor type.
Can Solid Flood Deck stain be applied using a paint sprayer? Can this product be thinned to meet the paint viscosity time test?
Airless paint sprayers only.
I have a 20 year old deck previously stain with Flood SWF Oil Acrylic Solid that is peeling on deck floor and toprails. Can I just powerwash, scrape peeling areas and then recoat with Flood Pro Series Solid Color 100% Acrylic Stain which is water based? Note: Can Pro Series water based acrylic solid be used of old Flood SWF Oil Acrylic Solid and what would the correct prep needed be?
You should be okay as long as you prep well to remove the peeling stain first by pressure washing and or sanding.
Need to redo saltwater deck previously painted with latex paint. Deck is peeling as unable to get underneath so moisture ascends. Paint is down in cracks so unable to sand or strip off. Want to use a solid color stain hopefully that will match existing color. Should I only use acrylic formulas or other. Have heard water based boat bottom paint might work? Appreciate any and all recommendations. Thanks
You cannot use a solid color deck stain over a paint. Doubt a boat paint would work but we have never tried.
My deck is 20 years old. Pressure wash and clean thoroughly every year. Flood rep recommended for first time treat, a pro series solid color stain. After application, surface is a little rough than I like. It has dried to a hard finish and looks great. Can I apply Flood RAD over it or do I have to remove solid stain first.
Not sure what Flood RAD is and you cannot top coat over a solid stain unless you are using a solid stain again.
Sorry for typo – it is Flood Pro Series Resurfacer – same color
How long should we wait for the solid flood stain to cure before putting furniture and letting dogs/nails onto the surface?
24-48 hours.
I need the 100 ; acrelic deep base,color walnut
What’s the biggest difference between this and Restore a deck? We were considering a two tone deck with Floods Amesterdam color and Outside white. You have any experience with these colors of Flood?
Both are very good solid stains but we like the RAD better. Lasts longer and is easier to apply. Never used those colors of Flood before.
What would you recommend for a gray house ? We need to do a solid color as we are removing old stain and don’t think it’ll look good doing semi. We are trying to decide and having some trouble.
I sent some questions to you earlier today. After I clicked post comment it all disappeared. Did you get them? Thanks
I prepped my sanded deck Saturday 5/22 with RAD cleaner and Brightener. I looks great! I will be using Flood pro series solid stain. This is the first time I will be staining a deck. I need your expertise in answering my questions. The application instructions for the flood are not the greatest.
1 The deck has dried for 2 days. It is calling for rain on and off all week. Saturday is going to be a dry day. Also Sunday will be nice to give it time to dry from Saturday. It states that the wood needs to be completely dry before staining. How can I tell if the wood is dry enough? If it feels dry to the touch is that alright?
2 It states to wait 2 hour minimum to 4 hour maximum before doing 2nd coat. How can I tell when to do second coat? If it feels dry to touch than it is alright to walk on it to do second coat?
3 I could not remove the old stain in between the boards on the sides, so need to use a brush to apply the new solid stain to cover it. Do I do this first before using a roller to do the top of the boards or just the opposite?
4 My biggest problem is that I get full sun from 10am to sunset on my deck. Can I mist it before dong first coat and again before doing second coat?
5 If I need to wait for a cloud cover day to stain, how long after 5/22 is the maximum to still be able to stain while the pores are still open to penetrate some of the solid stain?
6 Any other advise you have since I am doing this by myself and it will take hours to do the staining.
I am ready to buy the flood pro series acrylic Solid Stain in a customized color. The deck has been sanded, cleaned & brighten. The deck is 200 sq. ft. I will need to brush the sides of each board and roll the top of the deck boards. Flood say 1 gallon will cover 350-500 sq. ft.
1 Do you think I can do 2 coats with one gallon? I do not want to buy more than I need since I cannot return the custom color.
2 If I need to buy two gallons, what is the shelf life of a opened gallon with a custom color?
3 How can I tell when I can walk on the deck during the 2-4 hour dry time window to apply a second coat or do I only need 1 coat? [see picture] Sorry I cannot figure out how to attach the picture
You need two coats with a solid stain.
It says coverage is 350-500 sq. ft. I have 200 sq.ft. so won’t 1 gallon do 2 coats? This is a picture of the sanded deck after the cleaner and brightener was done.
It will not cover that far. They exaggerate the coverage.
I think I have a problem. As I mentioned above I prepped my deck on 5/22. You mentioned that the staining should be done within 14 days which would be 6/5. It is calling for rain today 5/28 thru Sunday 5/30. The only days it will not be raining is Monday & Tuesday 5/31, 6/1. I need to stain with the Flood pro series solid stain on Monday 5/31 to allow 6/1 for drying time before it rains again on 6/2. That means it will not be 48 hours dry time after rain. It sounds like I would need 4 days without rain to allow wood to dry, stain and the stain to dry. This is almost impossible with the weather we have been getting.
1 Can I stain if the surface of the wood is dry to the touch, since the stain is water based?
2 If not, than it will be more than 14 days since the prep was done.
3 The flood instructions state “Make sure the wood Surface has been prepped and is completely dry” . I am not sure what completely dry means.
4 My deck gets full sun from 10am till sunset at 8:30pm so I need to stain before it gets TOO hot in the months ahead.
5 What should I do? The weather has not been cooperating at all.
Thank You for all your expert advice !
We have a 30 year old deck that was stained with Super Deck 11 years ago. It had a weathered grey appearance on the upper pool deck and the lower platform deck that is close to the ground had several black patches. We hired a contractor to restain in hopes of preserving deck due to current cost of lumber, not realizing the problems with stains on the market due to voc changes. He power washed and applied diluted bleach to dark areas. The next day he lightly sanded dark areas and stained. He used Arborcoat Semi Solid Classic Oil in a color called Silvermist that displays as paint primer. Application with sprayer, roller, and brush was totally inconsistent. Decking faces West and gets full afternoon sun, so it’s blinging. We are in the painstaking process of sanding everything down to bare wood. It’s looking like it will be impossible to get everything between the boards and the railings. I was hoping we could go with Armstrong Clark semi transparent in Driftwood (wish there was a semi solid AC in gray; TWP 100 isn’t an option because we are in NY and TWP 1500 has no gray), but due to age and this stubborn Arborcoat removal, I’m thinking Flood Solid in Stonehedge is our best bet. I’d prefer a less flat, slightly sheen finish but we cannot get RAD or Defy locally. Can we proceed with staining Flood Solid upon completion of sanding 60-80 grit followed by through removal of sawdust?
Probably but best to post some pictures here after the sanding is done. BM Arborcoat creates so many issues, just a poor product.
To say that we are profoundly livid at the situation is an understatement, especially after reading the horrific reviews about the product. I actually prefer a weathered gray look and just want to preserve the life of the deck. Should have left it alone. Are there any widely available gray semi solid stains that you find acceptable? Would Cabot semi solid oil stain be acceptable or is solid Flood the better choice? Here are some preliminary pictures taken in the shade of the belt sanded deck. We’ve not attempted to get in between the boards yet.
If you remove the rest of the gray solid stain and the wood is porous, you can use a semi-solid. We do not like Cabot though and you are limited in NY.
I think it will be impossible to get every trace off in between the boards and particularly in between the 4” spaced railings. The Arborcoat keeps gumming up the sanding pads and we’re going through them fast. If you had to choose Cabot Semi Solid Oil vs Flood Pro Series Solid for this, what could you live with? In your experience, can either product be accomplished in one coat? Our local PPG store said Flood Solid could be applied in one coat, but Flood Customer Service said it is not designed for a single coat. I’ve attached a picture of other decks, post-Arborcoat.
We like Flood solid stain better. You will need two coats.
Made some progress with floor sander and 60 grit pads! This is in full sun and we haven’t cleared sawdust. Still think Flood Solid will adhere? I hate to mask the grain, but it sounds like solid is better for a deck to preserve?
Yes, it will work here.
I can’t thank you enough for all of your feedback. We were less successful sanding the vertical boards. We know we’ve got to do more work on the floor here (overhang extremely poor deck design), but is Flood over Arborcoat more forgiving on vertical surfaces?
Yes, it would be.
The bottom surface of rails was applied so thick that it’s gumming up into sticky balls and some spots under overhang are still wet from the Arborcoat that was applied 5 days ago despite it being dry, sunny, and warm for a week. We’ve got one more day of sanding and we should be in business. It’s looking like rain before we can stain. Will clearing all sand and sawdust with shop vac, broom, then running all surfaces over with tack cloth before the rain and then again before we stain suffice, or do we need to power wash again? I’d prefer to not inflict any more trauma on this old deck than absolutely necessary. Dark areas were treated with bleach, power washed, and lightly sanded before the Arborcoat went down. Thanks again for all of your advice.
Pressue wash is better. It will not harm the wood. Just do a really good rinse than then let dry.
One more question, when it’s time to restain in a year or 2, what will be required to switch to RAD solid? Strip, brighten, & stain? Or can we get away with clean, brighten, and stain? Wish I could click my heels and go back to semi-transparent!
Just clean, spot sand if needed, then apply.
This is the best we can get the flooring, any chance that semi transparent would still work? Rails and verticals definitely will sadly require solid, but wanted to see if a last ditch effort for a gray semi transparent floor and white solid rails might be achievable before we commit. We never want to sand to bare like this again!
No, it would show through and look poor if you do not remove all and use a semi-transparent on the floors.
Ok, Flood Solid it is. Their website says “FLOOD Pro Series solid color stain can be applied to a damp surface, so you can cool a hot deck by misting before application. You can apply it to rain-damp wood as long as the wood can absorb water, which opens up staining days in a rainy week and makes it possible to clean and apply in the same day.” So if we pressure wash today, can we stain tomorrow?
The Flood cannot be applied to a damp deck. The RAD Stains can.
New issue – mountains of sawdust, Arborcoat paint dust, and sand are piled up under the decks. Even after power washing, I’m having respiratory irritation when I spend anytime near the decks over the sand.
Any idea if leaving a significant quantity of sawdust (that could be from CCA lumber), Alkyd Arborcoat paint dust, and sanding debris under the deck is a respiratory concern? We could remove it painfully under the pool deck, but we would have to remove lower deck to clear it. Chemtek reached out to BM and they said it would wash away with the rain, but after rain and power washing there are still mounds of it and it’s still irritating to breath. I’ve never heard of anyone having to remove chemically treated sawdust from under a deck before. I don’t want to risk exposure, especially for kids. I have no clue how how long the sawdust and/or stain chemicals might take to break down.
We have no idea. Sorry.
I have sanded my deck with 80 grit to remove 2 old coats of solid stain. Most of the old stain came off but I know I will need to apply another solid stain. I plan on using the Flood Pro Series solid stain due to color choices they have.
1 Can I just use a deck cleaner and will it open up the wood pores and than just pressure wash it off before staining or do I need to use the RAD cleaner and brightener products ?
2 I think I read where you have mentioned there is no need for cleaning and brightening if there is no graying of the wood. My deck has no graying and looks good after the sanding.
I am getting more confused as I read other peoples questions and your responses.
Attached is a picture of the sanded deck. Thanks for all the past advise you have given me.
Food pro series has a product called “all purpose deck wash”, which claims to be deep penetrating to remove dirt, mildew, mold. Can use this since I can get it locally or will it not open up the pores on my sanded deck? See picture above of the deck.
If I can’t use the the deck wash is there another product you would recommend that I may be able to get locally?
If I have to use the RAD prep products it says that after the brightener is applied I can rinse it off with a garden hose for 20-30 minutes. That is a lot of water going next to my house. At what point can would it be possible to stop rinsing the brightener off?
The Flood prep should be fine.
I need a dark gray solid water base deck stain. Defy extreme and RAD do not have what I need. Flood pro series has may choices in a gray color. I am worried that because it is a cheaper stain that it will not hold up on my sanded deck that was previously stained. A local value home center carries this product.
1 The instructions says to apply to dry deck and you must wait 2-4 hours to do the second coat. Is that correct?
2 I checked all the high end paint stores and they do not carry the flood product.
3 Do you know if the formula is the same as in the past and this product will hold up as well as the other brands I mentioned above.
Thank You
Can it be used on exterior brick?
Doubt it.
Based on this and other reviews, we painted our cedar siding with Flood’s solid stain. We used a custom dark olive green color. Over a year later in extreme sun and no cracking or peeling. The problem is that the color has noticeably faded. Some is expected, but not this much. And the surface matte texture is awful. It dulls from a very slight hint of a sheen to a truly matte surface that draws dirt to it. Rub your bare hand on it or swipe a finger on the stain, and your skin cells will transfer. You’ll actually see a whitish discolored stream. The brush strokes are horrible. You can see everything. A sprayer wasn’t an option. This had to be done by hand. No matter how careful we applied the stain, every board ended up with visible brush marks. The color faded, bringing out the yellow undertone. It’s not awful, but it’s not what we chose when we bought this product. Dark colors are more vulnerable, but this is more fade than we were expecting. The matte finish looks ratty and old, not fresh like what you’d expect from something painted just a year ago. The paint store told me they changed their formula and that’s why we have this problem. He had other customers complaining about the same thing. The rep is supposed to come to our house to see for himself so we can get a credit. But because of COVID he’s under travel restrictions and won’t be out here for a good while. I can’t imagine using this on a deck. The paint store recommended Sikken’s solid stain. He said it’s an upgraded quality that has a sheen that looks very rich and doesn’t dull. No skin cells sticking to the surface. I can’t wipe down dirt on the house. Fibers from the cloth coat the entire surface. Same with even a sponge. I’m really disappointed. We worked very hard painting our house, only to have to do it all over again. This product did adhere very well to the bare cedar. So it’s a good base coat. But the idea was to have to only use one product. I’m not sure if Sikken’s is a good option, but I’ll try a sample and see what happens.
Cedar should be primed with an exterior oil primer if you are looking for a solid colour this will prevent yellow stains from the wood coming through and brush marks can be avoided by using small rollers to go over the finish coat
Could Flood solid stain be used on new kiln dried PT pine on the rails once the wood goes through the short aging period?
Yes.
Thank you. Will the verticals need two coats of white stain or one? Also, is Flood’s white a bright white? Is the white stain difficult to clean?
Most likley two coats when applying a solid stain. Not sure about there white.
I cleaned and pressure-washed our deck with Defy wood cleaner, but didn’t strip all the old (Defy) semi-transparent stain from the railings, since we planned to use solid stain on them this time.
Would it work well to apply Flood solid stain to the railings, or should we stick with Defy since we didn’t strip the railings completely? (Asking this question because we can’t obtain Defy locally, but we can get Flood Pro Series from a paint store; and our time is limited. We did buy Defy solid stain for the railings but are considering a change of mind on the color).
Defy is a better solid stain the Flood but you could apply the Flood Solid over the Defy semi-transparent.
Does the wood grain show through the stain when the deck is new. Which type of Flood paint does this?
This is a solid stain review, so you will not see any wood grain.
Father in law’s deck. Stripped and neutralized with RAD. Has had multiple applications of Cetol SRD RE. I probably got 95% plus removal because of the poor prep and over application. Do you think I’d be OK going to Armstrong Clark? He’s concerned more about protection than appearance.
You should be good to stain now.
I have hand orbital sanded my deck to remove loose/cracking solid stain of an unknown brand, appears to be an acrylic WB. This deck has been drum sanded, probably more than once since the past colors have been white, green and now brown and the surface is has ridges and edger marks. I had hoped removal would be more complete and am wondering whether a 12×18 commercial pad sander would remove the rest. I am trying to get a feel for whether it’s realistic to expect near total removal so that I could go to Armstrong Clark gray, or whether I should give up and stay with a solid. And if I go with a solid, what’s your recommendation on whether I should stay with the same color, or could I switch to gray (concerned about durability and the brown showing thru- scratching and peeling). I am in NYS. What is the best solution? Looking at Flood and RAD solids and possibly Defy. Also wondering if #1Deck is in fact pretinted Defy solid deck stain with the same formulation. Defy solid is not readily available locally.
You will need a solid stain to cover this. Use the RAD or Defy. No idea on the #1 Deck.
Our 20-year-old gazebo is 6’ W x 7’ L x 7’ H (with a 4 seat glider and glider floor inside). We never added anything to the original (clear? light brown?) stain.Restore-A-Deck said: “You do need a pressure washer for this. Just back away from the wood with the tip 8-12 inches away. The additives are for the stripper and you do not need the stripper. Use the RAD 300 which is the cleaner/brightener kit.” But they said Flood gets poor performance reviews. Is your good Flood review because Flood has an improved formula. I was leaning toward Flood’s solid color stain in Classic Cream or Aqua Smoke. Can you give me your thoughts (off the record, of course) as to whether either of those colors would look good on the attached small gazebo? I like painted gazebos but can’t take on peeling paint at my age. Thanks for your very helpful and appreciated website!
We like the Flood Solid Stains but do not love them. We use other brands of solid stains on are decks. Sorry but never seen those colors before and not sure how they will look.
The prep is correct. Use a cleaner and brightener while pressure washing.
Half PT deck boards (pine) replaced in 2016. Did not stain then. Other half replaced in 2017. Waited several more months and applied two coats Behr Premium Solid Color Waterproofing Stain & Sealer. In 2019 deck boards stated to turn black in many places. In 2020, power washed boards and removed mold as well as stain. Two options to consider.
Option 1: Flip boards (what prep is required before RAD application?). How many coats?
Option 2: Hit deck with power sprayer again to strip off as much stain as possible. (what prep is required before RAD application?). How do I post .jpg pictures (all pics are >4 MB)?
Just click the photo icon and upload the pictures. 4mb total
Each .jpg is >4mb
The total of all pictures being uploaded needs to be less than 4mb. You can also reduce your image size prior to uploading. It works as we get many 100s a week.
Found out to downsize picture data size. See attached.
I do not think you need to flip them. Strip off what you can. Sand any loose stain after. You can cover the intact stain that is not peeling. Use the RAD Solid stain when done.
see attached pics
Greetings, thanks for this forum. It is super helpful. Live in NJ. Deck is approx. 12×18 is original to the house built in the 80s and is mostly shaded with a small section that gets full sun. The deck is in fairly decent shape (considering its age.) I recently hired someone to swap out a few bad boards and perform a few other minor fixes. The last solid stain applied roughly 4 years ago and it was time to re-stain the deck after the repairs. As the deck needed a good solid stain, I took your recommendation and purchased Flood Pro Series Solid Stain (in New Pilgrim Red). Chose this particular brand of stain also because it stated it would be good for application with both the new (unstained, but treated) boards and the old stained ones. The deck was power washed and then I used a spray-on deck cleaner to get rid of some green algae (coming from a nearby tree). The first coat was applied 2 days ago to a completely dry deck surface and it came out nice and even, nothing showing through — although it seemed a bit dull. I figured a (recommended) 2nd coat would help give the deck a little more luster. The 2nd coat went on yesterday afternoon also to a dry decks surface and it went on very nicely and seemed to give the deck a nice even shine. The instructions said not to apply the stain if wet weather is expected within 12 hours. Unfortunately, a patch of rain/t-storms showed up unexpectedly this morning and the deck did not have a full 12 hour dry window. Now there are these horrible patches and spots where the stain literally ran (see photos). It is awful. What to do now? Help! Thanks!
Recoat it again.
I’m getting ready to put Flood Pro Series Solid Stain on my deck. I’m reading the instructions and it says to wait a min of 2 hours or a max of 4 hours before adding a second coat.
Question: What is the harm in waiting more than 4 hours to apply the second coat? Example: Do coat 1 this evening after the sun goes down, do coat 2 tomorrow morning before the sun comes up?
If too long it may cure and repel the second coat. Best to follow their directions.
That doesn’t sound fun. I used the same solid stain on my swing set just to get a feel for it. Did coat 1 and coat 2 48 hours apart. What happens if this cure/repel situation happens? The stain fails?
Yes, it would potential peel.
How will I know if the second coat is being repelled? I hit a swing set with this stain just to get a feel for it before taking on the deck, I waited 48hrs between coats and didn’t have any problems on application. Is it premature failure that we’re worried about here rather than problems during application?
Probably fine with vertical wood. More of an issue for deck floors.
Just FYI – This was bugging me so I called Flood and asked their tech line. They said no issue with applying later than 4 hours after first coat, can apply the next day if you want to. They even pulled the label/instructions and said they weren’t sure why it was labeled that way (not sure if that should make us feel better or worse). They said their main concern was if you wait to long between coats dust and debris can gather, so sweep/blow the deck off if you wait long between coats. Figured you’d find this interesting.
Good to know.
What prep would be required to apply this product over deck previously stained with TWP 100.
Strip and brighten.
Can I use this to paint over railings that currently have arborcoat applied? If not, what would you suggest I use?
As long as you remove the peeling stain and clean well, you should be okay.
First time ever staining a deck and need help. When we bought this house the deck already had a black solid stain on it, but it was very faded and weathered. We used Behr deck stain stripper to get most of the stain off except what’s between the boards. We plan on replacing some of the damaged boards and sanding down the whole deck. Do I still need to use a wood brightener before using a solid stain? Also what solid stain would you recommend? I have to use a solid because the boards are old and weathered but every brand has bad reviews about it bubbling and peeling a year later. I’m not sure what I should do.
Use one of these brands. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
You do need to brighten after stripping to neutralize.
Hi, my head is spinning on how many coats I can put on my new decking.
I’m planning on using the Flood solid stain to put on my deck.
How long should I wait to apply?
How many coats is needed?
TIA
Wait three months and prep with a deck cleaner. Two coats for the solid stain.
Ryan, I have a deck where I have replaced about 40% of the boards, they were strong but developed lots of cracks baking in the Tennessee sun. The last two times I have stained it I used the flood CWF-UV oil based products. When it is time to stain the new boards I am wondering what will require the least amount of prep & labor to blend everything together.
I was hoping that I could just clean the deck and go over the old stain with Flood Semi Opaque or Solid avoiding stripping and sanding. I tested the older boards and water is absorbed. Would the Semi Opaque have enough pigment so everything blends well? Spindles and rails look great so I am going to keep them semi transparent.
The paint store guy said I needed to sand or just go over it with latex floor paint. I removed floor paint from my sisters deck and that is something I never ever want to go through again. What do you recommend?
Thank you,
John
No, you will need a solid stain if you want this to blend.
I live in Michigan and had a contractor use the Flood Pro Series Solid Color Stain (in Stucco) in July of 2018. Almost two years later, this is how the deck now looks. The first year we had some chipping/peeling of the stain but this year it has gotten much worse. It’s almost like there is little to no adhesion between the stain and the wood itself.
What would be the best way of going about fixing this? Should I just go get some more of this stain and redo the areas that chipped away? Should I have this much chipping this quickly? If this is something I have to do every few years than so be it, but I want to make sure something wasn’t done incorrectly when it was originally applied. Thank you.
You would have to strip the deck to remove as much of the peeling solid stain as you can. Then reapply another solid stain on top. Not sure if he did or did not do something wrong. No way to say for certain. It is normal to have to restain a deck in Michigan every 2 years, maybe three.