This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Defy Extreme Wood Stain Review
This is an updated review of our original Defy Extreme Wood Stain. See Here for First Review: Defy Extreme Stain Review
Defy Extreme Stain Description
Defy Extreme Wood and Deck Stains are among my top picks for water-based stains. Offering exceptional UV resistance, it penetrates deeply into the wood grain—almost as well as an oil-based semi-transparent stain. Plus, its mold and mildew protection outperforms 90% of other semi-transparent stains, thanks to the nanoparticles of zinc oxide.
Released in 2008, Defy Extreme quickly became the standout product in the Defy stain line. As a water-based formula, it penetrates the wood without forming a film, which is key to its durability. The stain features synthetic resins and nano-particles that reinforce the wood’s cellular structure, allowing it to better reflect UV rays—acting like sunscreen to prevent fading and graying.
Defy Extreme Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8.5
– The initial appearance was a warm rich finish with even natural grain highlights. We were impressed that Defy Extreme Deck Stain did not conceal the wood grain like other water-based stains. Wood surface penetration was outstanding. The Cedartone test color revealed a hint of orange but was tolerable and almost expected for a cedar deck stain tone.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9
– Defy Extreme Deck Stain was hands down one of the best we have ever tested at stopping UV graying at the 2-year mark. The formula’s zinc oxide nano-particle additive appeared to help tremendously with UV radiation. Very little wood fading or graying was detected.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
–Our 2-year check of wearing was better than average. Some high traffic areas showed minor wear and tear but overall Defy Extreme held up well.
Cost Per Square Foot: 7
– For the 2 coats used on the test deck, we got a spread rate of 100 square feet per gallon. We needed 6 gallons of stain for our 600 square foot deck. At around $55 per gallon for Defy Extreme Wood Stain, it came to .45 cents per square foot.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 10
– As a professional-grade water-based stain, Defy Extreme does not encourage stain fungal or mildew growth. A slight area of green algae was detected in a shaded area of the deck but seemed to only be on top of the stained surface. This seemed to be more of an issue of the deck’s location than with the actual stain.
Ease of Application: 8
– Defy Extreme Stain in our opinion was user-friendly and easy to apply. One concern we had was with drying too quickly when applied in direct sunlight during the heat of the day. Defy Extreme was easy to clean up with soap and water.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
– As expected due to very little graying and fungal growth Defy Extreme scored well in color shifting. There was no apparent shifting or darkening at the 2-year inspection.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
– Because of very little color shifting and the product penetrating so well Defy Extreme Wood Stain would be easy to recoat. We would suggest a light cleaning using Defy Wood Cleaner and Wood Brightener prior to reapplying.
Overall Score Defy Extreme Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.5
Defy Extreme Stain stands out as an exceptional exterior wood stain, easily surpassing other water-based stains we’ve tested. When it comes to eco-friendly, water-based options, Defy Extreme is our top recommendation. Scoring in the top 3 for UV graying prevention, it’s a clear winner for long-lasting protection.
Not only did Defy Extreme provide us with a stunning, professional finish, but it also stood up to harsh UV radiation for 2 years, outlasting most other stains on the market. If you’re looking for superior UV protection and a durable, high-quality finish, Defy Extreme is the way to go.
Product Information:
Help or Questions? Defy Extreme Stain
Cost: $55 per Gallon, $259.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Water Based
Available Colors: Cedartone, Natural Pine, Light Walnut, Clear, Butternut, Redwood, Driftwood Gray
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 100-150 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 2-4 Hours
Cleanup: Water
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in all States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Saver Systems
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600 Square feet
UV Exposure: 80% Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Cedartone
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Consider that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Defy Wood Stain Photos
Defy Extreme Stain Video Review
Hi, we used Defy to stain our new deck and finished 2 days ago. It had to be done in sections due to the size. Because of that we are noticing the 2nd portion of deck to be noticeably lighter. We are not able to get a 3rd coat on for another week. Is a light washing of the deck enough prep? TIA
John
You cannot apply a third coat of Defy at this point.. It will not penetrate correctly.
More stain is not better when it comes to penetrating stains. Over-application can lead to drying issues and premature stain failure.
Hello, I used the Defy semi transparent stain to stain our deck 2 years ago. 2 coats. The stain was easy to work with and I like how it looked when it was finished.
Two of the planks have developped grayish-white streaks, which I think has to do with the wood not the stain.
My question: is it advisable and /or possible to put a refresher coat on the deck only 2 years after the original one?
Or is it better to simply give the deck a good cleaning to give it a refreshed look that way?
Thank you!
Krista
You should clean it first and then apply a maintenance coat.
Hi,
Based on research (and in large part, this review) we chose to use this product on our new ipe deck as it appeared to have very good penetration on that wood (where other products struggle), as well as what seems like should be generally excellent performance.
So, about the job…
The ipe we stained is new but we left it out to weather enough months that it greyed. I believe it was “seasoned” enough to accept stain readily.
Before staining, we used the 2 step prep (Defy Cleaner & Brightener), per manufacturer recommendation.
It is worth mentioning that we did, however, get interrupted after the initial prep with some drizzles (not a full rain) and ended up applying the stain about 2-3 days later.
We put on 2 coats “wet-on-wet.” (5gal Light Walnut mixed with 1gal Cedartone)
At first it looked great…although, it did seem to take several days to feel dry, which was a bit worrisome. It really did look nice.
Shortly thereafter, we started experiencing some very rapidly spreading “black dotting” .. that looks like mildew. We are on a canyon (in San Diego), and do get a ton of surface moisture on it with the morning dew every day … The stain also began to feel a little tacky again for a day or two at some point during this transformation for the worse.
I attached a couple pics.
You may also notice that we are using “Dexerdry” joist gutter (what appears to be extruded butyl…but basically a 2-sided T-molding that makes the deck act as a roof/gutter)…which could definitely impact airflow around the boards and cure time/moisture retention.
That said, I assume this is a problem that appears on normal jobs without Dexerdry .. and I assume has to do with something like moisture, contamination and/or perhaps saturation?
Where did we go wrong?
Perhaps we should have applied it immediately after cleaning AND only used a single coat?
How do we best correct this?
Do we just, essentially, start over and use the 2-step Cleaner/Brightener again then follow up with a single coat of stain?
Or do we need to get more aggressive?
It might be rust and it turns black when water gets on it. Rust can happen when metal pieces get in the wood. Strip it off and then Brighent the wood. Reapply one coat of stain. The Brightener will remove the rust spots. You will need a pressure washer when stripping.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/remove-rust-black-stains-from-deck/
it’s all new construction- i don’t think there are any ferrous metal sources nearby?
you don’t think it’s mildew?
Probably not mildew but if it was, you would still need to do the same prep.
Definitely need a pressure washer?
Yes.
I am laying down a new kiln dried cedar porch floor (covered under roof). Do I need to do any prep other than power washing before applying Defy Extreme Semi-Transparent Stain? Thanks!
Yes, weather for 1-2 months for kiln dried and then prep with a Wood Cleaner and then a Wood Brightener.
if I have a new unstained PT deck that I installed 9 months ago, do I need to use cleaner/brightener on the wood before applying the stain or just a simple clean/hose down is enough?
Use the prep products:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I live in the Pacific Northwest.I’m looking for an semi transparent or opaque deep penatrating oil fence stain in black or something similar to black. Recommendations please.
There are not any black semi-transparent that we know of. There are some very dark browns. Look at Charcoal color in the TWP semi-solid line: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-semi-solid-pro-series
Scott, thank you for your wonderfully detailed and thorough site. It’s the best one out there. I am trying to figure out how to best care for my red cedar Adirondack chairs and am considering using Defy Extreme. My understanding is that not all deck sealers are safe for use on furniture, but this one appears to be. Your review of it has me thinking it might be a good fit for me.
The chairs in question were originally coated in Ready Seal by the woodworker who made them, then allowed to weather naturally on our patio for about 8 years. I recently decided I wanted to freshen them up and try to maintain a newer/non-grayed look. My first step was to apply Behr All-in-One Wood Cleaner and scrub with a brush to remove the gray. This was pretty successful. I believe the Ready Seal is pretty well gone just as a result of time and weather except where the chairs were protected from sun and the elements by pillows (see example photo showing a very small amount of stain remnant where each pillow had been). I plan to do a light sanding, as well, to remove fuzz. At this point, will the chairs be “good enough” that I can move forward with a water-based stain like Defy Extreme, or do I need to go back with a stripper to get that tiny amount of old Ready Seal off? Should I brighten first, as you would do for a deck? And, in general, do you think Defy Extreme is a good choice for this project? Many thanks.
Prep looks good to stain and the Defy Extreme or the Restore A Deck Stains would work well.
Thanks so much for your response. I’ll be back reading your reviews next time we stain our deck, as well!
Hi, I have a house with western red cedar siding. The walls are clapboard and the gable ends are cedar shake. When I installed the clapboard I installed it rough side out, as I liked the look but now in retrospect I realize it probably holds a lot of pollen and other mold/mildew causing particles in those nooks and crannies.
I built the house in 2009 and I stained it with Cabot pacific redwood oil based stain. 3 out of 4 sides have not been re-stained, only the side that faces west and receives sun has been re-stained approx 5 years ago with the same product. The house has darkened considerably (it looks brown) and I would like to get it back to a cedar tone and use a cedar color stain instead of the redwood color used previously.
My thought is to sand to bare wood with 80 grit paper on my random orbit palm sander then brush on the new product. I’m looking at the defy extreme in cedar tone. I have had black mold/mildew issues on the shady sides and it seems this product will help. Also I have seen you mention it helps prevent darkening of the wood as others do not.
Anyhow my questions are:
1- once I sand, do I need any treatment before staining?
2- since this is “old” wood, do I use the wet on wet method?
Anything else you are aware of and would like to mention?
This is a large project and would like to enjoy the results for many years to come.
Thanks,
Bill in CT
It will be a lot easier to strip it off compared to sanding it all off.
1. Do a final clean and brighten if sanding.
2. Depends on the stain brand but yes if using Defy.
Might want to consider the Restore A Deck Stain as well.
What product do you recommend to strip the old oil base Cabot? Is the stripper a spray on with a pump sprayer, let sit then pressure wash off?
I have not looked at the restore a deck product line but I sure will.
Use the RAD Stripper with both additives. Apply with a pump sprayer and pressure wash off. RAD Brightener last:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Ok I believe I will strip with RAD stripper + 2 additives, then RAD Brightener, then RAD semi transparent color to be determined. I do like how the stain can be applied to damp surfaces, 2-4hrs after doing the stripper/Brightener. Also it seems the rad prevents darkening and mildew better than the Defy.
As I’ve been researching the last couple hrs since my last post here it seems like for sidewalls one coat is enough? The wet on wet method is more for horizontal surfaces like deck boards? How do you feel about that?
It really depends on how dry and absorbent your wood is. You are borderline based on your pics if two coats will be needed or not.
Ok thanks for the responses. I will try the wet/wet method in a inconspicuous area to see if it takes it or not.
Pictures of siding for reference