This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Update 2026
The Armstrong Clark Wood stain has been a solid performer since we started reviewing and using it about 12 years ago. We really like how it penetrates deep into the wood grain and applies easily. Reapplication is simple as needed with a good deck cleaner for the prep. One thing we have noticed is to make sure you do not over apply. You want the AC to soak completely into the wood for the best results.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Review Below
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is an oil-based stain backed by 5 generations of experience in the exterior wood stain industry. Armstrong Clark is offered in 3 different versions: Trans parents, Semi-Transparent, and Semi-Solid Colors.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are composed of drying and non-drying oils that separate during the application process. The drying oils cure and protect the exposed surface of the wood from natural weathering and UV radiation while the non-drying oils condition the interior of the wood by lubricating the wood cellular structure.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
Armstrong Clark Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
– The Armstrong Clark showed a rich deep enhanced color after application. The natural grain of the wood showed throughout the deck surface. The Mountain Cedar color was a “tannish” cedar color.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Photos
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar offered better than average UV protection. When using a semi-solid stain we expected to achieve excellent UV protection and the Mountain Cedar delivered. We would expect that the semi-transparent and transparent colors to offer slightly less UV protection due to the lesser amount of solids.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain had little to no peeling. The only wearing of the stain was on the steps. This most likely was the result of the homeowner’s dogs.
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– Armstrong Clark sells for $41.99 per gallon for the semi-solids ($36.99 for semi-transparent). This is an average price for a quality deck stain. We found that Armstrong Clark has one of the best square foot coverages. For our 600 square foot test deck, we used only 2.5 gallons of stain for the required one coat. The final appearance was even with no noticeable bare spots.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 7
– The Armstrong stain did have some very minor mold spores on top of the stain. On further inspection, it seemed that the mold was not growing in the stain and could easily be wiped off with a wet towel.
Ease of Application: 9
– Extremely easy to apply! Armstrong’s manufacturer states that their stain can be applied in direct sunlight. We tested our application at 90 degrees in full sun. We did not experience any flash drying or unevenness of the stain. No noticeable drips on the vertical railings.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar darkened slightly in color from the original application. Most likely due to the high solid content of the semi-solid stain.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain would be an easy product to recoat after a light cleaning. The stain does not darken and penetrates extremely well. Key factors when it comes to reapplications.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.2
– Armstrong Clark performed at a high level after the two-year mark. Our favorite aspects of the stain were the ease of application and the coverage rate. There was very little to no peeling of the stain and color-shifting was acceptable. We would expect that applying a maintenance coat would be easy with a wood cleaning and wood brightening.
Product Information:
More Info: ArmstrongClarkStain.com
Cost: $51.99 per Gallon, $259.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used:Â Mountain Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain Review Video
This is Natural Oak Stain. Looks amazing and was really easy to apply after cleaner/brightener!
Looks great!
Do you have any comments on mixing Armstrong Clark stains?
My wife isn't too keen on the semi-transparent cedar color, so I was thinking of mixing with transparent redwood to come up with something less yellow.
Mike, we have personally mixed AC colors together to achieve a desired color. Are you trying to make it more red or brown?
Was looking for a light reddish brown, originally thought the redwood might work, but it maybe does not have enough color in it to do much at all. So maybe adding a small quantity of the mahogany might be the solution?
What about adding regular paint tints? Any thoughts?
Mike, maybe redwood tone and rustic brown. You cannot add regular paint tints.
I applied Armstrongs transparent cedartone on two adirondack chairs this week. I wiped off any wet spots after 24 hours and allowed them to dry for 72 hours. I'm concerned the oil-based stain might stain clothing as it is not wet but still an oil-based paint. Should I seal with a clear waterproof coat or do you think that these chairs will dry properly if left outside a few more days.
Justin, do not put anything on top. Armstrong is a curing stain so it will dry fully. I would leave outside in full sun.
I stained my adirondack chair with AC semi-transparent driftwood stain 3 years ago and now the stain rubs off easily on my arms and hands when I sit in the chair. The stain dried completely when I applied it 3 years ago. Is this what happens when the stain begins to fail? The chair has been outside the whole time buried in snow in the winter and in hot summer temps. The stain still looks good but the chair is unusable if the stain rubs off so easily.
Sounds like it is time to redo the chairs. 3 years is about the max before it needs to be redone.
Thanks for the prompt reply. My deck (located in Connecticut) has 8 to 12 year old red cedar decking and gets full sun in the afternoon. I just power washed and sanded off what was left of two layers of old semi solid stain (i.e., Cabot Decking Stain & Ben Moore alkyd). We were initially considering applying Armstrong semi-solid (maybe Woodland Brown) since we thought we may need the hiding power, but since virtually all the old stain was removed by the sanding, we are now considering A/C semi transparent (perhaps Rustic Brown). Would you recommend A/C semi-transparent for this application or would suggest using DEFY Hardwood, TWP 1500 or another stain? Thanks again!
Bill, any of these would work well for the project. The Semi-solid would giver longer UV protection. I would suggest a light cleaning and brightening after the sanding to help the stain penetrate better.
When you say light cleaning and brightening after the sanding, what cleaning/brightening product would you suggest? I'm aware of R-A-D and Wolman products, among others, but since the deck was sanded thoroughly, I thought those products may be an overkill. I was considering a light cleaning using just water and TSP with perhaps just a little bleach or using baking soda/vinegar. Any suggestions? Thanks for the info!
Bill, sanding is not the best way to prep. You need to remove the sand dust from the wood pores (cleaner) the then open the wood grain with the brightener. Do not use bleach on wood. Any good deck cleaner and wood brightener will work after a sanding.
Hi, Your posted test results are for Armstrong Clark semi-solid (Mountain Cedar). Do you also have test results for Armstrong Clark semi-transparent? Thank you. Excellent site!
Bill, currently being tested now. Results are just as good.
Hi, Just following up on my question and your answer from last year… Are you going to post the test results for A/C semi-transparent deck stain?
Thank you. Bill
Yes, sorry but we have not yet.
First of all, want to say you have the best and most informative site available anywhere; your advice and willingness to help regardless of your own opportunity to sell to the visitor is very commendable; well done
I have douglas fir("DF") siding and roofing on an covered screen porch; the porch gets plenty of hot sun in summer and very cold winters with snow and rain exposure but the siding and roofing gets no direct sun. It is 6 years old; never treated in past; is losing its rich red/orange color and is drying out; i am looking at a transparent stain to help protect and revive the red/orange richness and preserve; ; questions:
1) are you familiar with DF wood and is AC a good solution for it?
2) would you recommend a cleaner/brightener beforehand? my experience is lose bleach the wood so much, you lose any remaining original richness?
Thanks in advance for the help and keep up the great site!
Mike,
1. I would use the AC in the Amber for this.
2. Has it grayed? if not then maybe just the brightener.
This site is awesome!! Thank You! We're ready to purchase the natural cedar stain (transluscent). Do we also need to purchase some type of clear coat, water proof product as well to seal it?
Tracey, no need for that.
hi- I am trying to compare behr deckover vs rustoleum restore- so far I'm thinking that both may be difficult to use- this would be replacing the solid stain I used last year from Behr that completely peeled- my deck is 7 yr old-
thanks!
Good question. I used Rustoleum Restore on an old party deck on a dock. I used AC semi-transparent stain on the floating portion of the dock. Within 60 days the Restore started to peel. Looking back, the trick is in the surface preparation. You have to be ruthless. The AC portion looks great two years later.
I used Restore on my deck and it started failing after the first winter, now there are class's action suits against this product, cant pressure wash it off all you can do is sand and scrape or replace your deck because it won't come off in the places it adheres to
Behr deckover peels badly.
Hello, I have four different surface conditions to preserve. All are out of pressure treated pine and none of it has every been stained. The first three are 10+ years old and the last is 1 year old. First is a set of stairs exposed on the West side of a garage that is weather worn, but solid. Second is a deck under an overhang that stays mostly dry and gets very little sun. Third is a gazebo that has been shaded for 15 years but I just moved to a sunny location. Last is a one-year old dock over a pond. So, four unique locations and conditions. Can I use Armstrong Clark for all of these applications? Semi-Transparent or Semi-Solid? Thanks for your response.
Wes, yes you can use the AC for all of these. Either the semi-trans or the semi-solid. We have found that the semi-solids give better UV protection.
Thanks very much for your prompt response. I will purchase the AC online since I can't get it at a dealer in Indiana. Your help is appreciated!!
Oh, by the way, all the different surfaces have been power sprayed. From what I read, I should use some type of cleaner or restorer on the wood. What should I use for the various surfaces that I mentioned? Thanks again.
Wes, any of the deck cleaners and wood brighteners will work. We like the Restore A Deck products.
I live in Toronto and used Benjamin Moore oil based solid wood stain around windows. Now after 5 years I need to
redo without too much scraping.
What is the best stain you recommend and where can I buy it. I can drive down to Buffalo if it's not available in Toronto.
Thanks
Following my last comment – I just saw a website that will ship TWP 100 to Canada. Would this be a better route?
Steve, from what we understand, TWP is illegal to be used or sold into Canada.
Thank you! Much appreciated.
I'm not sure if my other comments stuck on the other msg threads – Here is another try!
My primary deck is 8 years old, I am the second owner. I built a newer set of stairs 2 years ago. Both are pressure treated soft wood and have NEVER been stained/sealed.
The main deck was quite weathered. I have now cleaned it and lightly sanded the fuzz that came up in some areas from the washer.
Given that I live in Canada, there only appear to be two "good" options – Defy or AC. I'm leaning towards AC since it is an oil and should help the older part of my deck. Will this be a good option?
I have 2 other questions:
Colour: Under Defy, there is a "light walnut" colour – what is comparable under AC? I would like it to be brown at the end, not too dark. Maybe Rustic Brown?
Coverage: My primary deck surface is ~100 sq ft — any idea show much to budget for the spindles / rails? The stairs are at least another 100 sq ft again with spindles to add. The wood has never been stained, so I was thinking it would soak in a lot. Should 2 one gal cans cover this area? What is the shelf life of a 5 gal pail that would be part used?
Thanks in advance.
Steven M, I would stick with the AC for this dried out deck. Rustic Brown is a great color and one of our favorites. I would get two gallons for this.
I have 3 year old Olympic Maximum (old formula) Cedar “Toner” on a 15 yr old PT deck. Do I need to strip first before applying AC?
Steve, best to strip and brighten when switching brands.
Thanks. Will Restore-a-deck stripper be able to cut through 3 year old Maximum toner (old formula)? or do I need something stronger?
Steve, I would think so. We have used it on oil based Olympic formulas in the past with good results.
Where can I buy armstrong Clark deck stain near Watertown, NY?
Joan, I am not sure. Try contacting the manufacturer directly.
I have a 4 year old cedar deck that I had previously treated with ReadySeal. I am thinking about switching over to Armstrong Clark – can I just go directly to the Restore-A-Deck system or do I have to use some type of stripper prior to restaining? Thanks!
You can probably just use the Restore A Deck Kits for the prep.
I have a rooftop deck made of redwood. The roofing material is made from GAFF Rubberoid. There is an aluminum coating on the roofing material applied on top of the roofing material. If Use stripper to remove the old coat, will the stripper also strip the aluminum coating from the rood and or damage the Rubberoid material used on the roof! I don't know if the stripper wiill breakdown the coating on the roof. Basically, I have a floating deck. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Duggen, I am not sure on this. Might want to ask the manufacture who makes the roof material.
Can I put the Armstrong semi-solid product over a one-year coat of Olympic stain? Or would I have to strip the Olypmic first?
Doug, you would need to strip off the Olympic.
Newbie here:
Live in Colorado:
Weather: Extreme Below Zero to 100+ degrees
Altitude: 6,000+ HIGH UV
Moisture: Little to none
Size of Deck (300 sq ft)
Deck: Looking to surface a new deck in Redwood/Cedar OR Composite.
Daily sun: 90% of deck Receives morning / mid-day sun while 10% is shaded by the house and eave all day.
I am having a difficult time deciding between composites and wood. I like the lower maintenance of composite, but I don't like the added heat, and the scratches that some receive. I do like the wood look and feel BUT I am leery of staining and stripping and re-staining every single year to keep the deck looking good. In addition the fact that 10% of my deck doesn't get direct sunlight will I notice significant difference over months/year in color?
Having read many people's comments, if I choose a wood deck, I would want to make sure I choose the the best stain the (FIRST TIME) so I don't run into problems like others have had with lesser quality stains.
What would be the ultimate step by step process and stain/sealer I should use in Colorado? I like deep orange colors .
Mark, clean and brighten with the Restore A Deck Kits then stain with the AC in one of the cedar color. You can clean and reapply every couple of years.
Hi! We live in Nebraska and are getting ready to re-stain our north facing cedar deck. It is about 8 years old. We have pressure-washed and sanded it. Will using a brightener help get the stain to last? We'd like to limit out complete stripping/staining to about every 3 years – will a light power-washing and touch-up staining in the off-years help make the stain last, or does it just make things worse? We are looking at using Armstrong Clark or TWP semi-transparent. Any preference between these brands? Thanks for your help and suggestions!
Michelle, brighteners do not remove deck stains. You need a deck stain stripper remover. 3 years is pushing it. Every 2 years is normal in your climate and with using either TWP or AC. I would not \”touch up\” the stain.
I live in Columbus, Ohio and just purchased the semi transparent rustic brown for our new build deck. The deck is treated pine. Is there anything I should apply to the new deck prior or after staining to seal it or does the stain include a good sealer? The deck is approx 3 months old and ready to take stain. Any other suggestions for my project to help it look awesome would be appreciated!!!! Thanks!!!
Nathan, pleas read this about new decks: Staining New Decking.
Only 1 coat of the AC.
I live in southwestern Ontario, and want to re-stain my 3 year old pressure treated deck that is peeling terribly. Would AC be a good choice, which one, and what prep-work is required. I'm thinking most of the existing stain will come off with the power washer. Thanks so much.
Kelly, best to use a stain stripper while pressure washing to help remove the old stain and reduce the chance for damage. Use a wood brightener after to neutralize. For the stain, AC in a semi-trans or semi-solid is best.
I am unclear how to interpret ratings on the site. Does "DeckStainHelp" summarize multiple ratings? From my view it looks like only one consumer rating is made and published. Given the info on the site it looks like AC for my older deck, maybe 5-8 years, pressure treated, part shade is the most appropriate. Information and advice appreciated. Thanks much.
Margee, we rate stains from our experience as contractors. We then allow consumers to post their own experiences. AC in a semi-trans or semi-solid color would work well.
Twelve year-old, ptw deck in fairly bad shape (mold and flaking old stain) near brackish water, subject to strong p.m. sun and wind. Will strip and brighten, but can't determine which stain — Defy or Armstrong, semitrans or semisolid? Want to stay with gray color so choices seem limited. Also, would you explain use of sealers?
DeeTee, gray colors are very limited but the AC is a great stain so I would consider it. Deck stains are sealers. Sealers just repel water for a short period of time but offer no UV protection unless they are tinted.
We have a uncovered cedar deck that is one year old. We have put Olympic clear stain on it and it has pealed off over the winter. Some of the stain is on, but most of it is off or just not working well. The clear stain also has left a yellow color on the wood. Armstrong Clark Wood Stain seems to be recommended for softer woods such a cedar, but when I read the reviews for the the Armstrong for Hardwoods, I like what I see in the ratings better. I want add just a little bit of tan colow to the deck. Which of these two stains would be better to use on the cedar deck? We live in western Pennsylvania. Also, what steps and products should we use to better prepare the deck before staining it again? Thank you for your advise.
Brain, strip and brighten the wood for the prepping using the RAD Products. As for the stain, might want to look at the Armstrong Clark in the Mountain Cedar color as it is close to a tan/cedar color with excellent UV protection.
I have a 30 year old PTP deck that has been pretty continuously maintained and is in decent shape…….the deck finish put on 3 years ago is peeling and flaking away
I have a 30 year old PTP deck that has been pretty continuously maintained and is in decent shape…….the deck finish put on 3 years ago is peeling and flaking away, so this year it's going to be a total strip and refinish job……I live in northern NY, and the deck is primarily full sun during the day…..I'm struggling between AC and Defy extreme and can't seem to determine which one would be best and last longest….and also be easiest to re-coat in a few years……suggestions???
Jules, both are very good and one is not better then the other. The Armstrong would be a little easier to reapply in the future as it penetrates deeper.
Should one coat be enough? I want to make sure I buy enough as I have to order it…….
Thanks!
Jules, in most cases 1 coat is enough. Sometimes we apply a second coat to the flooring only if the wood is very absorbent. You do this right after the first coat is applied. Kind of like applying 1.5 coats.
My deck is roughly 750 sq feet of decking, 120 feet of rails / spindles and 80 ft of lattice….how much stain will I need to do one coat?
Jules, is that sq. feet for the railings and lattice?
Hmmmmm……..one estimate just listed rails and lattice as feet, not sq. feet…….the 80 feet of lattice is, I believe, the circumference of the lower deck as it is roughly 28×16, and the upper deck is 12×10 with a rail on each dimension and stairs and rail connecting the two decks (think raised ranch)…did that confuse the issue more? 🙂
Jules, yes it does. Really need a sq. footage. 🙂
300 sq feet of railing and 264 sq feet of lattice …….
Jules, sounds like you have about 1300 total sq. feet. You would need about 7-9 gallons for this.
Thanks for all your help -great site!
I will be stripping Australian timber oil off and using AC semi transparent…..does every bit of old product need to come off or can I just aim for removing the majority of it? Trying to keep labor costs down if possible……
Jules, shoot for 90-95% removal. It is hard to remove 100%.
So if some is left on, what exactly does that do? Will it interfere with absorbency of the new AC stain? The old is "natural" Australian timber oil (a gold-ish color) and the new will be driftwood gray
Jules, it could reduce absorption and penetration of the stain.
Best stripper for austrailian timber oil?
Jules, Restore A Deck Stain Stripper or HD80.
With my approx. 1300 sq feet of surface, how much stripper would I need to buy if I buy RAD. Probably will pump spray it on…..and do I buy the same quantity of brightener or would I need less?
And one last question (hopefully)….. If I use AC this year, I understand I don't have to strip it next time around, but just wash and re-apply right? can I do this every few years or does there come a time where I have to strip it again?
Thanks for the step by step question and answer opportunity- this site has been perfect for walking me through what I need!!!!
If we go with HD80, how much stripper and brightener?
Jules, 2-3 containers of the RAD Stripper and 2 containers of the RAD Brightener for this. You can clean and reapply the AC as long as you do not let the AC go to full failure where it is heavily peeling. Basically apply a maintenance coat as needed and do not let it go to long.
I live in New England and I'm considering Armstrong Clark in either Rustic Brown (semi-transparent) or oxford brown (semi-solid) on an existing PTP deck. When I have to re-stain the deck in a few years, if I choose oxford brown, will I be able to strip the semi-solid using RAD stripper or will I need to sand the deck to remove the stain since it's semi-solid? Is the semi-transparent much easier to remove? Thanks
Mike, both can be easily removed with a good quality stripper. Not a big difference.
Is it necessary to strip old AC stain before reapplying stain every few years? Can't you just clean, brighten and then stain?
Jules, you can clean and brighten AC for a recoat.
We live in Texas and have used Behr stain now twice on our 5 year old clear rough cedar fence. Behr just keeps peeling after One summer. I want to remove the stain and use something better. Please tell us what to do to remove and what stain would be the best for the Texas heat. We need a long lasting stain. Cuz' it is just too darn hot here to do this every year!
Ira, Behr can be very difficult to remove, especially when you have multiple coats. i would use a stain remover such as the Restore A Deck Stripper. You may need to do this a few times and you still may to sand off some of the Behr that does not come off with the stripper. Once that is done you would need to use the RAD brightener to neutralize. As for the stain, Armstrong Clark would be a great choice as it is a deep penetrating stain that does not film on the wood like the Behr. The better it penetrates, the less chance of peeling.
We have a brand new redwood deck and live in San Francisco. Limited sun. Foggy summers. Rainy winters. Which product would you recommend? The Armstrong? May we apply it now or do we have to wait?
Katherine, Armstrong or TWP 1500. Please read this about Staining New Decking
[…] Armstrong Clark Wood Stain – Waiting period of 1-2 months […]
I was told today by the guy at Kelly Moore that TWP wouldn't be a good choice because it takes forever to out gas and isn't completely cured for weeks. Is this accurate info?
Will, no that is not accurate. TWP is a drying and curing stain. Typically dries within 24 hours but drying time can vary. For example new wood is less porous so it can take longer to dry. In addition if the stain is over applied, it could take longer to dry. TWP does suggest that new wood weather for 4+ months prior to staining. Waiting for new wood to season/weather is normal for all brands of stain.
I am sure that TWP would not appreciate the Kelly Moore rep telling people wrong info. It is possible that he had a customer who had drying issues but that would be more of a preparation/application problem, not the stain's fault.
Semi Trans is probably the way to go right? Also why would you choose Armstrong Clark over TWP 1500? I can't seem to choose between the two.
Will, for these sticks you could use either trans or semi-trans. Transparent would be lighter in color and will probably work. I mentioned Armstrong as it has lighter tones/transparents. If you want a semi-trans then either TWP or Armstrong would work.
is there a difference in dry time between the two as that may ultimately make my decision for me? I'll get in trouble if I have them hanging in the garage for more than 3 or 4 days. I'm in Northern California winter weather.
Will, not really. The Armstrong may dry a little faster but it really depends on the temperature and porosity of your wood.
I'm making homemade Redwood Hiking sticks. The wood is young and very light colored. I would like it to darken up some and bring out the red parts, but not turn the whole stick red. Would Armstrong Clark be best for this or TWP or Defy? If Armstrong is best should I go with Trans or semi trans? and which color?
What wood cleaner and wood brightener is compatible with Armstrong Clark wood stains? I have a week-old cedar fence and noticed that wood readily absorbs water, so believe it is okay to seal right away but upcoming storms will delay applying product and wood may get dirty in meantime.
Jay, if it is rough cedar then you do not need to clean and brighten. If smooth then look for Restore-A-Deck products online of Defy products in stores.
Hello I am interested in using 5 gallons of transparent exterior fence stain. where in San antonio can I purchase that and what is the warranty thank you
Gary
Gary, I am not sure where you can buy it locally. I would contact the manufacturer for help with this.
Hi
My paint contractor is planning to use Armstrong semi deck stain on my 6 month old redwood deck. Its starting to rain a bit here in Nor. Cal and morning dampness occurs but he says a little dampness is still ok to apply the stain, do you agree?
Thanks!
Steve, you should not apply AC to visibly wet wood or within 24 hours of heavy rain. A light dew in the am that dries off quickly should not hinder anything.
I could use some advice.
I have a 25 year old redwood deck in northern California. I recently removed a hot tub from the deck and had to add new redwood boards.
I selected Armstrong transparent stain in Redwood color based on your reccomendations and ratings.
I sanded the old finish off (four days of sanding with deck sander) and the boards were like new again.
I then cleaned and brightened the deck using 'Restore-a-Deck" products. After several days I applied the stain with a roller. It went on well and I thought I had a finished deck. It has been 4 days now and the deck is a very strange orange color and not what I wanted. I have some pictures if you would like to see them.
I was wondering if I may have put too light a coat on the deck and should go over it again. However, I hesitate to do this without some advice. Can and should I try a second coat?
Joe, the Redwood tint is a lighter red color that basically highlights the natural color of your wood. I would to a test spot to see how it looks. If still not enough color then maybe go with the Sierra Redwood color which has more pigment.
Want to stain our old deck in Baltimore which has now been power washed, sanded, and cleaned. We get some afternoon sun but also a lot of shade. Have some questions, first of all, do you pretty much always recommend an old sealer as opposed to water? 2nd, are any of these top 5 rated stains available retail in stores? 3rd, If we have a roller and brush, how are we supposed to apply stains that state applying wet on wet on the flat horizontal surface? It seems like we would have to walk on the part already stained? It was suggested from a store that we should apply along the direction of the slats/boards a section at at time and work a few boards at a time until deck stained. Is this the recommendation you would give, or suggest something else (we do not have a sprayer – and seems this method would go everywhere). 4th, and finally, are there any water-based stains that you can be reapplied later in the next couple years without stripping/sanding?
Gina, oil based stain typically penetrate better the oils so less chance of peeling. All stains we rate are available in stores. Best to contact the manufacturers for help with that. Wet on wet means to apply the first coat then walk back on right away and apply a second coat. Typically only needs to be done to horizontals. Do all then walk on and do again. Defy is the only water based stain that actually penetrates well. This makes it easy for re coats in the future.
Thanks for the reply. Still a bit confused about applying wet on wet. It sure seems like if you stepped on wet stain you would not only make a mess of yourself, but also leave a lot of prints, dirt, etc. in the deck stain. Are you saying this does not happen?
Gina, you will not leave footprints. Just do not step in your second coat.
I appreciate all the help. Do have 1 further question. Looking at the different stains, I was wondering if you have an opinion, as to whether the Flood brand oil-based stain would be a very good lasting and ease of application, (reapplication), etc., choice, since this is available in stores where we live, versus whether to have the wait and order the Armstrong Clark oil stain, that would require extra time and some added expense needed to ship the product (unfortunately have checked and none of the top 5 stains you recommend are available in stores in the Maryland area). Is the one product/brand that much better, in other words? I am looking at the semi-transparent in either case.
Gina, Flood oil based is average in our opinion. TWP is readily available in MD. Call the manufacturer directly for help.
I live near Boulder, CO, have a new redwood deck, it gets some sun but not full sun. What product do you recommend?
Jim
Jim, Armstrong would be a good choice for this.
Hi, I live north of Toronto, Ontario. The winter months have below zero temperature and the summer can be hot (high 80s F) and humid. I have seen a lot of good reviews for Defy Extreme wood stain and have been considering using it for my deck which is east facing and has very strong sunlight in the morning. But I have seen recommendations here for using the Armstrong Clarkson. How does it compare to the Defy Extreme? Which one is more suitable for the Canadian weather and which type of Armstrong stain is that brand is better? Your help will be very much appreciated.
Clare, Both should work well for you. If it was me I would choose Armstrong Clark in one of the semi-solid colors for this deck.
I am confused by your product review specs. Was the test done using Semi solid or Semi transparent? I have always thought that using Semi Solid for walking surfaces was not advisable. Can you please clarify. Thanks.
Michael, this test was done with the Mountain Cedar color which is a 100% penetrating semi-solid. There was a typo in the specs.
I have recently purchased home in Washington state (rainy much of the time except in summer) – find now the cedar deck is peeling bad and have found out the previous homeowners used Behr weatherproofing wood stain. Do we have to strip ALL this stain off before using an Armstrong Clark stain on our deck-if so how best can we do this- it is a large deck and high – need to be able to use sprayer if possible to do prep and stain. HELP!!
Sherri, yes you need to remove the Behr. I would shoot for 95% or more removal. RAD Stripper works well and you will need a pressure washer as well. The Armstrong in the semi-solids seem to cover the Behr better if you cannot remove all of the old stain.
Where can Armstrong Clarke stains be purchsed in Washingon state?
Joan, I am not sure. Try contacting the manufacturer directly.
Last fall we put Australian TImber Oil on our Mahagony deck (3rd time over 4 years). Our deck has cracked over time, so this fall we want to change the product to one that is specifically made for hardwoods, and one that can be used successfully over pre-treated Mahagony. Any advise about how to prep (is power washing and sanding enough), and which product would you recommend? Thanks.
Kally Ann, I would use a stain stripper followed by a wood brightener to prep. I would then suggest the Armstrong Clark in the Mahogany color for hardwoods.
We want to stain our 1 year old pressure treated pine deck with AC. We haven't decided on a color but will protect the wood with the AC natural transparent stain before the coming winter. My question: can we paint over the AC transparent natural stain with an AC semi-transparent stain the following year once we have decided on a color? Also, how many coats would be required in both cases?
Ally, AC is typically a 1 coat product. You should be able to apply a darker color down the road as needed.
Thanks for your reply.
We are having trouble with our neighbors, as they wanna apply the same color on their new deck as ours, because they want both adjacent townhouses to have the same look. However, they can`t choose a color yet from the samples we ordered.
Therefore we are wondering wether to stain our deck now, with 1 coat of Natural AC, and then stain next year with 1 more coat of the color they would have selected….. Or to wait until next summer to stain both decks right away with the darker color.
Do you think it will hurt our 1 year-old wood if we leave it untreated for 1 more year (winter and snow here in Canada)?
Or should we really protect it right away with a Natural transparent stain for the time being?
Ally, I would wait and do both next year.
Where did you buy your Armstrong stain in Canada. I am looking but haven't located it yet.
Live in Hamilton Ontario.
thanks
Helena, not sure if you can get it there. I would contact them to see.
This is the most awesome stain I have used. It comes on very easy and evenly, it looks awesome and seems to be very water repellent. The stain soaks right into the wood as opposed to other box store stains which tends to puddle on top. The odor is not offensive at all. Some odor is expected from a good oil based stain. Mark at Armstrong Clark sent us several samples for free for us to see which color we liked the best. We put Redwood Tone on light brown treated hemlock, and it now looks like an expensive hardwood.
how many coating would you best recommend? or a single coating coverage is enough to achieve the enchanced color you want?
Jonathan, in most cases 1 coat is enough. If the wood is very absorbent then you might want to apply a second coat \”wet on wet\” or immediately after the first coat.
Thanks so much for sharing. Now I'm inspired to try and use one of these wood stains. I'm thinking of going more after the semi solid colors because I think it will be the most attractive of all. Also, the application process seems easy to follow even for first timers like me.
I have cedar siding that has been painted with 50% lindseed oil and 50% deckscape (from Sherwin Williams) two years ago. what do I need to do before using TWP 100. We are in Colorado at 7,500 ftelevation. __Thanks, Don
Don, You would want to remove the mixture that you have on the wood with a stain stripper followed by a wood brightener prior to using the TWP. This would give you the best results.
I used this product and I was very impressed. I was able to apply under direct sunlight. It has no bad odor. The color I used was Mountain Cedar.
We are picking a stain to re-seal our deck (it has been 2-3 years since we last did it). We previously stained our VERY old pressure treated lumber deck with a semi-transparent redwood, twice now. The first time we HATED the color – too orange (don't remember which brand, probably Behr or Cabot). It aged and deepened in color, thank goodness. When we cleaned and resealed with another redwood stain several years ago, it was slightly darker and less orange, but still has an overall more orange-ish cast than we would like. Do you think we could clean our deck and then use the Mountain Cedar color, or would we have to strip it first? How dark and what tone would you describe the Mountain Cedar as? (The interior of our chalet-style home is all-cedar, so it might be a better color if it will 'take' overtop of the old redwood stain.)
Sue, I would think it would be best to strip it first so that the Armstrong will be able to penetrate properly. Mountain Cedar is a tannish/cedarr color. I personally like the color as it is not as orange as others.
I am confused.
The review states that semi-solid "Mountain Cedar" was used to being with and in the "Test Deck Stats:" it lists as Cedar semi-transparent.
The first image appears to be cedar semi-transparent and the image after 2 years is Sierra redwood.
Please confirm which stain was used for testing and with relevant images.
Joe, sorry about that. We forgot to put the Mountain Cedar picture up. We will add it. Thanks for bringing it to our attention!