This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Hi, I’m Scott Paul, an exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior wood decking. My review of Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is based on my extensive background as a wood restoration contractor and hands-on testing. I’m here to share my honest insights to help you make the best choice for your decking needs.See here for more info about me.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Reviews
At DeckStainHelp.com, we take great pride in being the Internet’s go-to resource for all things related to exterior wood and deck restoration. Customers who have used Armstrong Clark wood deck stain consistently rave about the appearance and durability of their deck stain projects. If you’ve used Armstrong Clark on your deck, we’d love to hear your thoughts! Feel free to leave a comment below and share pictures of your completed projects.
The newest addition to the Armstrong Clark line is the Espresso semi-solid color, a rich, deep brown tone that offers excellent UV resistance, ensuring your deck stays looking great for years to come.
Armstrong Clark Deck Stain Review
Important Note: This is our 3rd Review of Armstrong Clark Stain.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain is a well-respected oil-based stain, crafted with over five generations of experience in the stain industry. It comes in several formulas: transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid colors, offering options for a variety of wood types and aesthetic preferences.
What sets Armstrong Clark apart is its unique formulation, blending drying and non-drying oils that are applied separately. The non-drying oils penetrate the wood fibers, helping to rejuvenate and restore the wood’s natural oils. Meanwhile, the drying oils cure on the surface, locking in the conditioning oils and creating a protective barrier against the elements, ensuring long-lasting weather protection for your deck.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
How I Rated Armstrong Clark Deck Stains
My Armstrong Clark Deck Stains review contains an 8-step process and the final average score. Each step is on a scale of 1-10.
- The appearance of Armstrong Clark Deck Stains after the Application
- Preventing UV Graying
- Peeling or Wearing
- Cost Per Square Foot
- Preventing Mold and Mildew
- How Easy was the Application
- Color Shifting for Armstrong Clark Deck Stains
- Ease of Reapplication
- Armstrong Clark Deck Stains Final Score
8-Step Review of Armstrong Clark Stain
1. Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 9
Armstrong Clark’s initial appearance was a rich, deep finish with naturally enhanced wood grain showing through the stain formula. Our choice of the Cedar Semi-Transparent color had a rich cedar tone.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Photos
2. Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
Upon our 2-year inspection, Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain in the Cedar Semi-Transparent color produced above-average UV resistance. With the Armstrong Clark, the transparent colors would deliver slightly less UV shielding due to less pigment in the formula, while the semi-solid colors would have slightly better UV protection when in full sun.
3. Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
No peeling was detected at the 2-year point. There was slight wear on the high traffic areas, around the furniture, and on the stairs.
4. Cost Per Square Foot: 9
Armstrong Clark Deck Stain can be purchased for $49.99-$69.99, depending on the opacity of the formula. In our test experience, Armstrong Clark had one of the best spread rates of any stain. We used 3.5 gallons on our 600 square foot deck applied in one coat.
5. Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 8
At 2 years we noticed some slight mold growth on top of the Armstrong Clark stain in some shaded areas. We did not detect any mildew spores within the stain as the mildew spores could be wiped away using a wet towel.
6. Ease of Application: 9
The Armstrong Clark Deck Stain was super easy to apply and extremely user-friendly. Upon the manufacturer’s claims of being able to apply in direct sunlight, we tested our application on a 90-degree day in full sun. We were surprised the stain did not dry too quickly and applied evenly in those conditions, avoiding potential issues with Applying a Deck Stain in Full Sun. There were no excess dripping issues on the railings even though we applied using a pump sprayer and back wiped with a stain brush. The semi-transparent stain applied well using this method.
7. Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8.5
Our 2-year test of Armstrong Clark Stain in Semi-Trans Cedar color did show signs of slight darkening from its original color. We figured this was likely due to the formula’s higher solid content. The AC is over 70% solids containing linseed and paraffin oils.
8. Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
Because Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain penetrates well and does not overly darken, it would be easy to recoat. A simple cleaning with a wood deck cleaner to remove dirt, grime, and mold spores would be sufficient prior to reapplying.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.5
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain performed exceptionally well during our 2-year test. Its easy application and impressive coverage rates elevate it to the top tier of wood stains. We noticed no peeling, and the slight darkening color shift that occurred was more than acceptable. The stain is also easy to maintain and prep before recoating, which is a significant plus for long-term care.
Overall, Armstrong Clark remains one of our top choices for a professional, durable finish. It not only lasts but is also straightforward to work with, making it an ideal option for both initial applications and future maintenance.
Product Information:
More Info: Armstrong Clark Stains
Cost: $59.99 per Gallon, $299.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia, Semi-Transparent Chestnut, Semi-Trans Natural Oak, Semi-Trans Black Walnut for Hardwoods
Application Temperature: 50-110 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 8-72 Hours, Depending on UV exposure and air temps
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: Under 50 VOCs. Compliant in All 50 States and Los Angeles Counties
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Semi-Transparent Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Consider that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain Review Video
I just stripped and stained my old redwood deck with Armstrong Clark Natural Oak semi trans and I’m happy with it. The directions on the can are great, but I’m surprised they don’t recommend pad application. Nonetheless, I used a pad and it worked really well,
Looks great!
Deck Stain Help,
We just wanted to give you a big thank you for all the prepping and staining advice. In the end we decided to go with Armstrong-Clark on account of some advantages it offers. We have a large south facing deck. The fact that we could put it on in the sun is a big plus as it is too hard to time a dry deck with an overcast day and no foreseeable ran here in the NW. The other big advantage of this product is that you let it sit and soak in for 24 hours instead of having to towel it off 30 to 60 minutes after application. This is a huge labor saver that keeps you from trying to towel up stain while you are still trying to get it on other areas. Within 24 hours it was all soaked in and looking nice. We used the Armstong-Clark Cedar Semi-Transparent on cedar deck boards. Thanks again for all the help!
Lee
Looks great!
Hi Scott. Should I put a second coat on now or latter? New con heart about two weeks old. Lightly sanded 150grit. Brushed on Anderson-Clark Amber. 2 1/2 gallons covered 800 sq.ft. I was surprised. Pics about an 1/2 hour after the 3 hrs it took to stain, once sanded and swept. How can I send pics?
Hi Perry,
Unfortunately, you stained your new deck prematurely and didn’t prepare it correctly. New wood neds to weather for three or more months and the prep should be the cleaner and brighentener to remove mill glaze and oxidation, not sanding. There is a reason it spread so thin, because the new wood directions were not followed, and your wood was unable to accept the stain properly.
New wood tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Just leave it alone for a year. It may wear unevenly since you stained it too soon. If it does, you will need to strip and brighen for prep.
FYI, never sand finer than 60-80 grit as it will reduce stain penetration.
I wanted to wait several years before posting this to be certain my recommendation was well founded and accurate.
It has now been seven years and I can confidently recommend the Armstrong Clark stain product for exterior, element exposed cedar. I am in Portland, OR and have cedar carriage garage doors.
The house was built in 6/2008. I had wanted a smooth furniture finish on the doors and so the painter applied numerous thin coats of lacquer to all exposed wood; mahogany front doors, cedar soffits, the cedar ceiling over the enclosed deck, and the garage carriage doors.
By 10/2013 the lacquer had peeled off the garage doors due to the direct southern exposure to sunlight, rain and snow but I will say all other exterior wood was and is still fine.
After researching and finding this site I removed the garage doors, stripped, brightened, properly sanded (going through each grit until 1200) and then applied the Armstrong product as four thin coats.
One gallon was sufficient for two doors (3 Car)
Throughout the years there have been no problems with the product or with any type of greying or fading of the wood.
Despite my best effort at sanding this is still not a smooth, glossy finish which what I desired but I see that that is not practical nor does the product purport to deliver that.
However due to the slight roughness on the surface I do find that pollen and dust stick to the doors so I just wipe them down monthly.
In considering all attributes that this site uses to rate stain products, the Armstrong is superior to the other products I have dealt with.
I helped a family member with his deck and he insisted on a using different product because of the price. What a foolish choice he made!
The cost of the stain is so minimal when compared to labor and time costs.
In 2020 I did give the garage doors a very light sanding and added a single coat before I sold my house.
It looked beautiful and I believe the doors were a contributing factor in selling the house, even during the slower housing market.
I highly recommend the product and I will use it again.
Extremely impressed with this stain. After a backbreaking job of sanding and brightening the cupped pressure treated 7’x28’ front porch and four 5’ wide steps, I was praying the finished product would be worth it. I wasn’t disappointed. A complete transformation. Very easy to apply, and huge bonus not having to time application to avoid the sun. Used two coats applied only about 20 mins apart but dries enough in that time to not have worries about leaving shoe imprints on previously coated surfaces. Finish was rich and smooth. After almost a year signs of wear are minimal, and only on steps used to drag bicycles and scooters up and down in addition to very heavy foot traffic.
Will recoat steps this summer and that’s it. Highly recommend,
Do you have any pictures to post?
I’m out of town for a couple of weeks but can get take some pictures when I return and post them at that time. I never think to do a before and after. If you had seen the before, you’d be amazed by the after.
Afters would be great. Thanks!
I have never stained a deck. I want to use RAD, A.C., or TWP. Please tell me which is easiest to apply with a stain pad. This is a new deck 5 months old.
They apply about the same. See this for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
If you sand an old deck to remove a prior stain, do you have to wait for the newly sanded wood to weather prior to staining?
Depends on how smooth you sanded the wood. Also, the final prep of a cleaner and brightener will be needed.
You cannot use the AC stain over this coating unless you have sand it all off.
Can I do 2 coats of stain on a new deck.? What do I need to do to prep my new pressure treated deck? Do I need to sand and then wash it. If I can apply a 2nd coat how long do I need to wait?. Thank you
Only one coat for new wood. You need the wood to weather for 3 or more months and then clean and brighten the wood for prep. No need to sand.
what about the factory glaze that is on the wood? the other thing is i had to sand factory stamp out of wood. now where i sanded out the stamp is lighter then the rest of the wood. what do i do for that? will a brighter help me on that?
The waiting and prep will remove the mill glaze. The waiting of 3 months will even out the sanding as well. Clean and brighten for prep prior to staining.
Rub off could occur when the stain was over-applied and the heavier pigment from the AC in semi-solids cannot fully soak into the wood. AC also suggests if this ever happens to lightly coat over the top with their Natural stain to “lock” in the pigment from being rubbed off.
This is the transparent stain, right? If that solves the problem that’s great! I’m assuming that down the road when another coat of the semi solid is needed, cleaning/brightening will be enough or will the added coat of natural require some additional prep?
Yes, Natural in Transparent. You will have to clean off dirt first. When redoing the entire project, you will need a full cleaning, brightening, and restaining.
OK, we cleaned the small deck, reapplied a coat of AC semi-solid Sequoia yesterday and it once again looks great. Tomorrow we will go over it with dry rags to remove any excess stain. How long should we wait before applying a coat of Natural? Thanks!
A few days or week.
so thompsons water seal may seal in the pigment also?..
You cannot add a sealer over the AC stain and Thompsons is a very poor product. Never use it.
you are probably right but from a business perspective it is unprofessional to publicly degrade a competitors product …..better to let your product do the talking…..speak for itself..
This is a review site, so that is what we do and the point of the site. Review products like Thompson and report our findings. You can read the review here and the 400+ customer complaints in the comment area.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/thompsons-waterseal-finish-review/
We have a mahogany deck that was completed in late 2014. We stained it with Cabot Australian Timber Oil Mahogany in early 2016 and again in early 2018. Frankly it has never looked anything like it did when it was new (see Photo 1; new after rain 2014).
We want to retain again but have the following questions:
> Should we prep with RAD Stripper & Brightener Kit or with RAD Cleaner and Brightener Kit (We notice that the customer video does not even use the brightener!)
>> If we use the Stripper, do we need a power washer? (we don’t own one that works well.)
>>> In some places, comments say you recommend using AC Amber instead of AC Mahogany on mahogany decks. Can you tell us why?
Strip and brighten for prep. You will need a pressure washer. Amber or Mahogany would work. Color is up to you.
Thanks for your answer. I guess that means we won’t be doing the job. Can’t afford a pressure washer, and we had hoped for some professional advice on which color would best match our original deck.
that looks closer to the mahogany than amber. Amber dries more brown, mahogany more red
Considering using AC semi-transparent on a pressured treated deck that is about 14 months old. Deck has never been stained. Will do RAD clean and brighten first:
1. Should I do 2 coats applied wet on wet to deck given its age?
2. Should I expect to get 2 yrs out of AC verses Ready Seal?
3. Is AC application more forgiving than RAD/water-based stain when it comes to lap marks etc (though both need wet on wet)
Thanks
1. Yes, correct.
2. Yes, RS does not last a year.
3. Yes.
We just stained our deck with RAD based on your reviews, but we are novices and there were terrible lap marks (pic 2) and drip stains that required a very careful feathering of a second coat (pic 3). As we practiced we got better at it, (and learned to do one board at a time) but the RAD stain was pretty unforgiving of our lack of skill. My question is this: we are about to stain our 2 year old Rainbow Playset and are wondering if the TWP will be any easier to apply than the RAD in terms of drips and lap lines and such. The playset came from the factory with a light coat of water based stain/sealer and now needs its first maintenance coat. We are very wary to use RAD on it because it’s such a complicated surface and we are afraid we won’t notice splatters or we won’t back brush fast enough and then the finish gets so uneven. Is TWP more forgiving? We got very excited about the Ready Seal brand for this reason, but we really really don’t want to have to do this every year. And lastly, what application tool would be the fastest and least likely for error for us novices?
The RAD stain is not your issue but your technique. You cannot stop and start without blending in the middle of a board. Also, you cannot apply TWP or RAD over your factory stain on the playset, it has to be stripped and brightened. RS is not a good stain, issues with not drying and rub off.
Which color of RAD did you use on the deck?
And what kind of wood?
We have a composite deck the previous owners either painted or used a solid stain over it. We tried cleaning it off and pressure washing and the stuff wouldn’t budge. Not sure if we should try a stripper or find a good solid stain to go over it with??? I contacted the manufacturer and they say they don’t recommend painting but since original stuff is sticking so good that maybe a paint would adhere?? Thoughts, strip, paint or solid stain?? Material is ultra deck, and no clue on the solid stain
You cannot remove this so you will have to use a paint or solid stain again.
Hi there
I’ve been reading about all the problems with using inferior products and want to get the staining of my deck right the first time. We live in Toronto, Ontario. Deck floor is mahogany and seating and walls are cedar. I have included photos of deck area when dry and wet (which highlights difference). This was after a pressure wash and after application of Behr deck clean which I picked up at Home Depot before finding this invaluable forum. Have now returned all the Behr stain I purchased and thinking of the AC Mahogany or Amber for floor section (you seem to recommend Amber stain on mahogany decks so not sure why that is) and AC Semi Transparent Cedar for walls and benches. Would appreciate your views to confirm.
Thanks
Bruce
Use the Amber for both the floors and the walls. It will be much easier this way.
I want to stain my porch…is 10 years old and previous stain with solid stain. I powerwash but pain still in the rails! What can i do to remove it! And what stain you recomend. We are in michigan so the weather is ruf. Thank you!
You cannot remove a solid stain fully with pressure washing or stripping. You will have to sand it all off. If you do not want to do this then you will need a solid stain again: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thank you!
I want to install a 120 square foot cedar deck under a covered cement patio.The wood will never really become “weathered”and will never really see sun or rain.I would like to stain it.How can I prep the wood?
You have to let it weather even if not under direct exposure: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I want to put a small,120 sq foot,cedar deck on a covered cement patio.I t will never see full sunlight and little rain.I want to stain it,but it is new wood and will never become “weathered”.Any suggestions?
I have a 10’x20′ attached deck with wood rails and balustrades. The balustrades are square and need sanding but I do not have the time or inclination to do so manually.
What type of sander do you suggest for this tedious task? My random orbit sander is fine for the railing but I am fairly certain the a belt file sander will simply be too aggressive for the balustrades. Will a detail sander be more appropriate for what I am trying to do? Honestly – I am not lazy, just old as dirt!
A palm sander is best.
Had 1 coat of semi solid cedar by AC applied, how can I tell if I need a 2nd coat?
Wasn’t present so not sure how fast it absorbed
Only one coat is needed for the semi-solids.
I stripped, brightened and stained my deck 3 years ago using AC semi-transparent cedar and now am looking to restain using AC semi-transparent rustic brown. Do you recommend stripping and brightening before applying new stain?
Clean and brighten for the prep is correct.
I used transparent Cedar tone last year on my cedar deck after stripping Penofin off. Also did the brightening & it looked great. I’m in MN. Looks dingy after winter, what should I do to bring it back this season?
Clean for prep to remove dirt and apply one coat of the same color.
What do you recommend I clean with, just power wash or use oxi-clean or a deck cleaner?
Thank you!
Deck cleaner and lightly pressure wash.
We’re about to stain a new wood red cedar 8×12 greenhouse before putting it all together. Any suggestions on semi-transparent stain to use? Ready Seal, Armstrong Clark, WaterLox, or blend your own linseed/varnish/turp?
Thank you!
You cannot pre stain wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Would you recommend this AC for a wooden playset? The playset is “white wood,” bought it second hand so unsure what wood specifically. It is about 10 years old and seems to be quite dry. We need to replace some boards but want to salvage what we can. The previous owner stained a couple times with Cabot oil based. We’re planning to clean with power washer and power sand before applying the new stain. Thanks!
Another photo.
You would have to strip and brighten this as prep. The AC would work well after.
The wood is real rough so would I sand before or after stripping/ brightening?
Is there any stain you review that could go over without the step of stripping? Thanks!
Maybe just spot sand to remove splinters. No, you have to strip when switching brands.
I will be installing a white oak deck and checking with you help determine best oil product. Also, do you recommend sealing both sides?
Hello,
You cannot prestain new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Let the wood weather and prep. Just coat the top. The AC would work well.
What product do you recommend for sealing white oak? I will be installing new decking and if you recommend sealing both sides
Starting a big deck repair and refinish project on our North Carolina lake house. South facing with constant sun exposure. Approximately 1100 horizontal square feet + railing. We bought house recently so do not know how old the deck boards are. Guessing at least 10 years old. Previous stain looks to have been transparent and definitely not recent. See pics. I’ve replaced some of the boards that were in terrible shape with 2×6 PTP. Hoping to get a few more years from deck before full replacement. Lots of other priorities ahead of it (eg. siding, roof, dock) Thinking of applying AC semi transparent or semi solid rather than a solid or one of those deck repair applications like Deck Correct, which it probably needs. Worried about costs and look. Looking for recommendations. Thanks.
Strip and brighten for prep. You will need to let the new wood weather for a few months before the prep and stain. The AC is a great stain.
Can I sand the new boards and then prep and stain in coming week or so? Also would semi solid be better than a transparent or even a semi transparent because the existing boards are so weathered?
No. You cannot skip the weathering process. Transparency does not matter.
Hello, I am interested in using AC finish on maghony decking on a wrap around porch. I read that I should use 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for prepping, is that correct? If not, what do you suggest. Also, what would you suggest for finishing as we enjoy seeing the natural grain of the maghony show through the finish.
We are not fans of bleach and it can damage the wood. Have you stained the deck prior? If not, how old is the wood?
The wood is approx. 22 years old and has been stained in the past. I used vinegar solution and power washed the decking, but not sure that was enough before applying a finished coat. What are your suggestions. Thank you.
Post a picture.
1st picture is by steps, which gets the most wear
2nd pic is front section
3rd pic is side porch section
You should strip and brighten this so it is even for a new coating. Try the Restore A Deck Products.
Thank you!
See above.
I cannot remember who told me this and I want to verify that my memory is accurate. I was told that you shouldn’t use the AC semi-solid stain on the floor of the deck, that the semi-transparent should only be used on the floor. Is this correct. I cannot find anything in the PDS for the AC semi-solid stain that says it should not be used on the floor or steps of the deck. I have a potential customer that I am about to go estimate staining her deck. She has already purchased and received 5 gals of the AC semi-solid Mountain Cedar stain. I don’t want to improperly apply on the floor if only a semi-transparent should be used.
We use the AC semi-solid on floors of decks all the time so that is incorrect info. You do not want to use it on a floor of a new deck unless it is 12 months or older.
Thank you.
Very pleased with Armstrong Clark stain. Did semi trans Natural oak on my cedar deck after laborious stripping and cleaning of a poor stain (Benjamin Moore ArborCoat for the record).
I was able to apply two coats of AC this fall, but have extra stain and would love to do an additional coat or two this spring to get a slightly darker finish. From reading it sounds like I could do a deck cleaning and then reapply. What cleaner is recommended? I used Restore a deck before but wonder if that is more than I need this time. Too harsh? Brightener needed again?
Thanks for the help!
Use a deck cleaner and light pressure wash for the prep. No need to use the brightener.
Do you have a cleaner recommendation? I have TSP and a Behr cleaning product on hand. I have used and can pick up more RAD, but not sure what is best in this circumstance.
Ues the RAD for the best results.
New deck, weathered a few months. With a moisture meter, I found 10-15% pretty uniform across the whole deck. I want to get it stained before winter with Armstrong Clark semi trans. I’ve read that this is acceptable moisture content for application of stain. Any suggestions
Make sure to clean and brighten the wood for prep. It is not about moisture % but porosity. New wood does need to season for a few months and be prepped. Just one coat of the AC. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thanks I did clean and brighten as recommended. Is there a need to sand as well. I read several places that sanding should be done to increase adsorption
Sanding hinders not helps absorption.
Is it necessary to sand as well? I read several places that sanding helps with absorption. Trying to avoid that if possible
Interested in the Armstrong Clark semi solid or semi transparent .which is best for walking out padio door and on out into the yard ? This is a 50 x12 deck cleaned never stained, 2years old treated lumber and covered .
Either would be fine but semi-solid will give longer UV protection.
I didn’t realize to use a deck cleaner and instead deeply pressure washed my deck. Some AC semi-transparent stain remains in some corners & a number of deck boards. What should I do to further prep my deck for a darker AC semi-transparent stain and what timelines should I expect if a “prep” product is recommended. Will I need a pressure washer again? Hoping to finish this project within a week. Thanks for your help.
Post a picture of the current prep.
will take a photo when home later today.
I did one coat of my AC Natural Oak semi-trans. I might have a weather window in the next two weeks to do another coat and would love to get the horizontals a touch darker. Would a sweep and/or light rinse be adequate prep before applying? What do you recommend?
If I’m not able to do a second coat, will my stain keep/store until Spring? I have a 5 gallon pail. Would it be wise to transfer it to smaller gallon containers so there is less air and perhaps a better seal?
Thanks so much for the assistance.
-Chris
Light water wash and let dry for 48 hours.
Thank you so much. It has been a bit longer than I expected (2 wks vs 1), but I have a potential weather window this week to do a second coat. If the deck has gotten a little dirty (light soil footprints) in some higher wear areas could/should I do more than a light water wash? The high wear areas are minimally patchy as well since they were potentially walked on a little early after the first coat, but I hope a 2nd coat will help. I can send pictures if helpful.
Just to a pressure wash rinse. That should clean it.
Hello,
We live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. We have not stained our 9 year old cedar deck and fence for a few years. We recently strpped and brightened it and are ready to stain. Our last stain was 5 years ago with Defy. Our deck is a west exposure with 1/2 day of full sun. Our summers are not that hot and our winters are very cold, some winters get a lot of snow, but not every winter. After reading the reviews on your website, we have narrowed the choices to three stains: TWP 200; Armstrong; and Restore-a-Deck. What do you recommend for the deck and fence? Thank you. Johnny
Any of those three would work very well. Up to you.
Michigan, PT pine, Sherwin semi-trans penetrating has been stripped with RAD step 1.
Next day, dampened, brightened with RAD step 2.
Now raining. Rain predicted for next 5 days.
1. What prep steps do I need to take to finish once rain quits?
We are going with AC. Probably the semi-solid.
2. AC product sheet states “not for seating areas”. We have 6ft planter bench with place to sit…. what should be done here?
3. Can semi-solid be “touched up” year after year?
Thank you.
1. Nothing, just make sure it is dry.
2. Just the semi-solid is not for seating areas.
3. Yes if needed.
This company has the Best Customer Service! They take their time, listen to you and give you really helpful feedback. When I spoke to a representative there, he educated me on the process and which and whether the stains from Armstrong would be the best option. I highly recommend their stains. It’s so rare these days to find that kind of guidance and good intentions.
I am looking to stain a new cedar deck in the Pacific NW. Does this product apply well on new wood?
You will need to allow the new wood weather: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I am building a brand new deck with Western Red Cedar. I love the natural color of cedar and would like to keep that as long as possible. I do NOT want it to turn gray. So here are my questions:
1. If I use a transparent stain, will it protect against graying?
2. Your testing on all the deck stains was done on pressure treated pine. How do those tests apply to cedar?
3. The supports of my deck will be pressure treated pine – how close will the colors end up looking with the stain applied to pine and cedar.
4. How many years will AC stain really last before I have to reapply it?
1. Transparent will have some UV protection. Better to use semi-transparent.
2. Cedar wood stains the same with AC.
3. Slightly different.
4. See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck
I am thinking of using Armstrong Clark to restain my 17year old cedar deck. I have previously used Defy water-based stain but was not happy with the results or the sun restrictions for application. I will be replacing some deck boards in some sections. Is there any special treatment that I need to do prior to starting this project
You will need to strip and brighten the wood to remove the Defy first.
Good morning –
The attached pictures illustrates my concerns but it’s not with stain. I strongly believe it came out the way it did because of the hired hand. I watched as they sprayed using an electric paint/stain sprayer and the guy was going across the pickets instead of up and down. I also had a lot of stain left over indicative of him not using enough. I’m not positive but don’t believe he mixed the 5 gallon pails of stain either. Yeah, I apparently didn’t due my homework in choosing the right professional. I prepped the fence as instructed. It was a brutally hot and humid day when they sprayed. What do you think? Are my reasons for the splotchy and unsightly finish due to the pro?
The staining was done just over a month ago. Can I re-stain now or should I wait? Since I paid a lot of money to hire this company I’m asking them to come back and fix. What advice should I give them besides what I identified to already be the issues with their work above.
Thank you.
definitely poor application. Not sure though if apply another coat will or will not even it out. Best to try a few boards and see if it will.
“Not sure though if apply another coat will or will not even it out” – what does that mean? My fence may or may not ever have a nice even look? Is there a better chance of achieving an even coat by waiting until the fence needs a second coat in 3-4 years?
Adding more stain does not alway even out a poor application job. If it does not, then best to remove and start over. Waiting a few years would probably not make a difference.
Great!! Thank you for the replies. Wish me luck.
If the stain was applied with a sprayer it still needs to be worked into the grain with a brush. Someone should come behind the spray guy with a brush and spread and work in the stain. This may account for the blotchiness as the stain has not been spread evenly. Also, most of the stain manufactures do not recommend applying stain in really hot weather. if the board is “hot” to the touch, it is too hot to stain. just my two cents worth.
After reading a whole combination of reviews including those here on deckstain help I went with Armstrong Clark Mahogany for my 18-year-old mahogany deck. I went to the company website and ordered a sample can to test for color. Liked it and the way it went on so ordered a 5lb can. Stripped old Cabots stain (which actually worked quite well but wanted to try something else to see if it would last longer and also because AC is said to be able to just put on a fresh coat each year with little preparation) using RAD stripper and brightener. Then decided I wanted to sand it down to smooth out some areas and flatten some boards which had slightly curled over 18 years. Brightened again after sanding. (not sure if that was necessary but it looked awesome after I did it. Applied Armstong Clark with a combination of brush and pad. Went on very smooth (I recommend Cabots stain pad over the Amazon highly-rated Shurline pad, WAAAY better). I started at 6 am but as always the cutting and brush work took way longer than anticipated so I was still working at noon when it was scorching sun and over 92 degrees. Saw zero difference in application ability from 70 degrees in shade to 92 degrees and full sun. Thought it was going to dry much darker than I hoped as it darkened within minutes but actually settled into a very nice color with individual mahogany boards keeping their own character. Pouring rain today and very happy to see water beading as if the deck was made of plastic. This with only one thin coat. Will update this review in one year when I see how it holds up from a weathering standpoint. My deck is almost full sun from sunrise to sunset.
I’m going to be staining my PT pine deck which I just sanded off all the Behr solid stain off of with Armstrong Clark Rustic Brown semi-transparent. I have 2 questions regarding application:
1. It seems that standard applicator pads are 9″ wide, while my deck boards are 6″ wide. Won’t this create a dark line on every other board? I plan on backbrushing, but since the boards are staggered and if I use a 9″ pad – I won’t be able to cover the entire length of 2 adjacent boards at one time. What is the best approach here?
2. If I want to have the color as dark as possible – I can do a second application after 20 minutes correct? Is it okay to walk on the already applied areas after 20 minutes?
Go on Amazon and order the Cabots stain pad. I had one of those and one of the 9 inch Shur Line pads. The Cabots was 6 inches, thicker, did not drip (the Shur Line dripped like crazy) and lasted twice as long.
I have a large rooftop deck about 2 years old (1 sealed one year ago with a clear coat). Wood had mild graying in exposed areas. Waterproofing is also pretty much gone in exposed areas. We get tons of sun and rooftop deck gets little relief during exposure to sun.
I would like to apply a semi-solid dark coat. Something like slate. What would be my steps to prep for that stain? I’m willing to go solid as well. Preferably on the stairs at least. Is solid a wise choice for a rooftop deck? I get LOTS of sunlight.
It would be better to use a penetrating semi-solid over a solid stain. Less chance of wear. The best brand for this is the Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color. They do not have a gray but they have a nice rich dark brown called Espresso. Clean and brighten for the prep.
Clean not strip right? Any videos or pages you can point me to if you don’t mind?
Clean and brighten for prep should work. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-cleaners/
Getting ready to stain my smaller 12×12 deck. New stain (Ready Seal Natural Cedar 112) put on last May 2018 after sanding, power wash. Deck people said it would have to be done again this year of which it does. I’m going to power wash and stain with the same now. That going to be all I need to do? Just faded. Wood good. Thanks
Yes, but you should go with a better stain like the Armstrong Clark that you posted the question under. Ready Seal will only last one year so it will need to be redone next year.
Follow up question please. I just power washed and will let let dry a couple days. I’m probably going to still use my Ready Seal stain from 1st time. Will putting 2 coats on last longer than a year or applying heavy on 1 coat be ok? Thank you.
Ready Seal will not last more then a year no matter if it has 1 or 2 coats. Better to only do one since over applying the RS could lead to oil tracking inside the house. It is known for doing this as it is a non-drying oil.
I’ve been using Cabot timber oil to stain my deck, and if I switch to Armstrong-Clark, can i just directly apply the AC on the surface, or do I need to remove the original stain?
You will need to strip off the Cabot first.
What application mentioned should I use for the semi-solid Armstrong Clark on a prepped old pine deck?
2 full coats? 2 coats wet on wet?
Just one coat will work when doing the semi-solid.
After much deck prep, re-doing of deck prep, and research (and recommendations from this site) I am close to purchasing a 5-gallon pail of Armstrong Clark semi transparent Natural oak stain for my almost two year old cedar deck (After RAD cleaning and brightening and some spot stripping). We’ve had quite the problem with mildew/black mold spots being in a wet and shady spot. We know that this might be exacerbated by the deck being close to the ground and semi-limited ventilation underneath and are working to improve drainage/grading to help.
That being said, is there anything we can do additionally to prevent the mold/mildew spots from coming back with our AC stain application? Should I be adding more mildew-cide or is what is already in the stain adequate? I have sometimes heard people mention Borate as well. Worth it? Lastly, we are hoping that a little bit darker stain like the Natural oak will make the mildew/mold spots less apparent if it is just a reality for us. Is that unrealistic? If it is surface mold (hopefully), what/if any kind of light cleaning might remove it if/when it comes back after stain application. Thank you (again).
More mildewcide will not help. AC already has a lot. I doubt borate will help. A darker stain would make the mildew less noticeable if it comes.
Mildew usually grows on top of a stain not under or in the stain. Some people have had success applying “Wet and Forget” on top of their stain. Maybe try that?
I like this brand of stain very much. If the cost isn’t too different from your supplier, I suggest you buy 5 one gallon pails. You have to shake and stir before you pour, and we had a lot of trouble with the 5-gallon pail (the spout is tiny.) We managed to spill a lot, and I don’t think we even managed to stir it very well after all that trouble–it settles quickly.
When I looked at the price, 5 one gallon pails was not too different, and I wish I had ordered that and will in the future.
My deck is 5-6 years old and previous owners applied a semi solid or solid Behr stain. I have removed it with a Behr stripper, pressure washer, and lots of power sanding. I am planning to use the semi-transparent rustic brown stain. Several questions:
1. I have already purchased the Behr cleaner/brightener that I am planning to use next – will this be an acceptable cleaner/brightener to neutralize the stripper and prep for the Armstrong stain?
2. Due to the trim detail on my railings, some of the previous solid stain is very difficult to remove. I understand that it is best to remove all previous stain before applying the semi-transparent but what will be the result if I am not able to? Just some splotchy spots where the stain is still there?
3. I am planning to apply with an airless sprayer – Should I plan to order/go through more stain?
1. We do not like any Behr prep products. We would return it if possible.
2. A semi-transparent stain cannot be applied over a solid stain. It will look bad.
3. Probably a little less.
Thank you for the information! Several follow up questions:
1. Based on other responses, I assume you would recommend the RAD cleaner and brightener in my case instead of the Behr? If so, would these neutralize the stripper I have already used?
2. I plan to used a solid white stain on the rail posts and some other parts of the rail. What would you suggest for the stain brand?
3. As I mentioned, I have removed most of the previous solid stain by sanding – Will the solid white cover the previous dark stain that is left?
4. Based on the solid white rails and the semi-transparent brown floor, what would the best order of stain be? I was thinking white first and then the semi-transparent brown since it may be easier to wipe off any splatters?
1. RAD will work but any good quality cleaner and brightener will as well.
2. RAD makes a good white solid stain. Floor Pro Series is another.
3. Yes, it should but you may need 2-3 coats.
4. Solid first, semi-transparent last.
where can i buy??
http://www.armstrongclarkstain.com
Just finished with AC Black Walnut. I like the final product very much and this is one of the best stains I have ever used. As a pro painter several years ago I had the opportunity to be in several different kinds of stain. This product is easy to use and yields great results when applied over properly prepared surfaces. As the home owner we are thrilled with the end result. Some before and after pics.
Looks great!
Quick question though, and it’s really kinda too late to care. The color is Black Walnut. I just put a temp gun on it at noon in the Florida sun. Deck temp was 170* F. How bad is that? What effect will that have on the wood? Vynle siding right beside the deck is 117*F. Melting point of siding for warp is about 165*F
No issues besides walking around in bare feet. I would not suggest that right now.
Getting ready to Stain a 10×11 entry deck with AC semi-trans stain. Deck is new wood 6 months old. It is in a carport so it has limited exposure to rain. I have just today sanded the deck with 80 grit. The wood is clean, white and bright. How necessary is it to now was and brighten with something like Restore-a-deck cleaner and brightener, provided I have swept and used a yard blower to remove all dust? ?
Thanks
Michael
It opens up the wood grain so the stain can soak in deeper.
How many gallons do I need for Semi Transparent – Cedar for 330sq ft? I want a lighter colour, so 1 coat.
2 Gallons of the AC.
There are several different Armstrong products. Translucent semi-translucent etc… what is the best to use for decks?
Any will work but we normally stick with the semi-transparent colors.