This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Update 2026
The Armstrong Clark Wood stain has been a solid performer since we started reviewing and using it about 12 years ago. We really like how it penetrates deep into the wood grain and applies easily. Reapplication is simple as needed with a good deck cleaner for the prep. One thing we have noticed is to make sure you do not over apply. You want the AC to soak completely into the wood for the best results.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Review Below
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is an oil-based stain backed by 5 generations of experience in the exterior wood stain industry. Armstrong Clark is offered in 3 different versions: Trans parents, Semi-Transparent, and Semi-Solid Colors.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are composed of drying and non-drying oils that separate during the application process. The drying oils cure and protect the exposed surface of the wood from natural weathering and UV radiation while the non-drying oils condition the interior of the wood by lubricating the wood cellular structure.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
Armstrong Clark Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
– The Armstrong Clark showed a rich deep enhanced color after application. The natural grain of the wood showed throughout the deck surface. The Mountain Cedar color was a “tannish” cedar color.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Photos
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar offered better than average UV protection. When using a semi-solid stain we expected to achieve excellent UV protection and the Mountain Cedar delivered. We would expect that the semi-transparent and transparent colors to offer slightly less UV protection due to the lesser amount of solids.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain had little to no peeling. The only wearing of the stain was on the steps. This most likely was the result of the homeowner’s dogs.
Cost Per Square Foot: 9
– Armstrong Clark sells for $41.99 per gallon for the semi-solids ($36.99 for semi-transparent). This is an average price for a quality deck stain. We found that Armstrong Clark has one of the best square foot coverages. For our 600 square foot test deck, we used only 2.5 gallons of stain for the required one coat. The final appearance was even with no noticeable bare spots.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 7
– The Armstrong stain did have some very minor mold spores on top of the stain. On further inspection, it seemed that the mold was not growing in the stain and could easily be wiped off with a wet towel.
Ease of Application: 9
– Extremely easy to apply! Armstrong’s manufacturer states that their stain can be applied in direct sunlight. We tested our application at 90 degrees in full sun. We did not experience any flash drying or unevenness of the stain. No noticeable drips on the vertical railings.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8
– The Armstrong Clark Wood Stain in the Mountain Cedar darkened slightly in color from the original application. Most likely due to the high solid content of the semi-solid stain.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
– Armstrong Clark Wood Stain would be an easy product to recoat after a light cleaning. The stain does not darken and penetrates extremely well. Key factors when it comes to reapplications.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.2
– Armstrong Clark performed at a high level after the two-year mark. Our favorite aspects of the stain were the ease of application and the coverage rate. There was very little to no peeling of the stain and color-shifting was acceptable. We would expect that applying a maintenance coat would be easy with a wood cleaning and wood brightening.
Product Information:
More Info: ArmstrongClarkStain.com
Cost: $51.99 per Gallon, $259.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used:Â Mountain Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain Review Video
This is Natural Oak Stain. Looks amazing and was really easy to apply after cleaner/brightener!
Looks great!
We applied the Armstrong Clark Sequoia finish semi solid stain to our new deck (pressure treated pine). We live in Raleigh North Carolina, and we used a brush for applying the stain. The weather has been mixed (some sunny days with some rainy days). After many days of completing the application of the stain, it keeps rubbing off on our hands and clothes when we touch most of the stained surfaces (stairs, balusters, deck surface). The bottom of my white socks become tainted with the reddish color when walking on the deck.
Is there anything you can suggest that we need to do to remove the powdery residue from those surfaces?
How long did you let the new wood weather and did you prep first with a deck cleaner and wood brightener? It seems the oil is taking a long time to penetrate due to the new wood. If it were our job we would take rags to it right away and wipe down the entire floor to remove the excess oil. When done we would saturate theses oily rags in water to avoid a potential issue with spontaneous combustion. This will help speed up the process. It will dry but is taking it\’s time.
I let the wood dry to approximately 20% moisture content, which took 2 to 3 weeks. I did not use a wood cleaner or wood brightener. I will wipe all the surfaces with some rags as you suggested to remove the excess oil. Thank you for your help.
In hindsight AC suggest waiting 3 months to let the wood season and you always need to prep new wood first to remove mill glaze and open grain for stain. It is not just about moisture content.
We used Penofin on cedar siding of our brand new house 9 years ago. After a year it turned black, which was very upsetting. Penofin came highly recommended by our lumber company as the best, so I blamed ourselves for doing something wrong (maybe the weather was too warm, we applied it too soon, etc.). The lumber company said it sounded like the tannins had risen to the surface of the wood, and sold us a remover that we applied to a test area. It did remove most of the black, but it was extremely labor intensive. I can't imagine scrubbing our entire 2 story house! We've just been living with the ugly, discolored siding for 9 years. We can't agree on what to do! We would prefer to re-stain the siding, but want to make sure the bad stain is gone before applying anything new. The only other option I can see is applying a latex stain over the siding, which my husband does not want to do. What method do you recommend? Scrubbing, then staining, or just cleaning and painting as the easiest solution. We're both over 55, and would be doing all the work ourselves.
The issue with turning black is not you or tannins. Penofin likes to blame their issue on this but it really is their stain. The good news is the Penfoin can be removed easily with a stain stripper and pressure washing. Here are your steps to restore color.
1. Apply Restore A Deck Stain Stripper to one side/area at a time. Use a pump up sprayer for application.
2. Pressure wash area to remove. Use a 3000 psi pressure washer but wash at 10-12 inches away from wood. This will reduce pressure to half and will nto damage siding if done correctly.
3. Rinse area when done and brighten with the Restore A Deck Brightener.
4. Repeat on other areas until done.
This will for sure remove the Penofin and restore your wood. I would hate for you to paint this with a latex.
What would you recommend to use to apply AC stain – brush or application pad? I don't mind extra time and effort, I just want to know all pros and cons of both. Thank you!
Stain pads apply easier, more evenly, and you can \”push\” the stain into the wood grain.
Our deck is 30 years old has been stain only a coupe of times. Will have to replace a couple of boards, our granddaughter got a splinter in her foot is there anything we could apply to the deck to help with this problem. Looked at a sealer that claim it will prevent that happening but reviews say it peels off in sheets after the first winter. We live in Ontario Canada. Also do sell your products in Canada retail stores? What product would you suggest we use? Thanking you in advance Beth
We do not sell products. The only way to stop splinter is to use a filming product and they will peel. AC is a penetrating oil based stain that does not peel. I would contact manufacturer for help with locating.
Last question, and thank you very much. Do you think adding 1 rustic brown to about 8 cedar will have much affect to tan/ light brown it , or should I consider a mixture of up to 1/3 brown to 2/3 cedar semi. I know I will start light with the brown, but I am going to order, and if I might need up to 1/3 to 2/3, I will order 2-5 gal pails of cedar semi, and 1-5 gal of rustic brown. this would give me enough to completely do the deck twice, and an extra coat on the floor and rail tops in between.
Yes that mixture should work for you.
Natural is transparent. Less uv protection. I thought about amber, but I think that is transparent as well, and again will have an orange tone. Do you think mixing a small amount of rustic brown to cedar semi, would dull the orange affect. Thanks for your quick response. I would still like to see a picture of your cedar deck with AC cedar semi on it.
Yes adding brown will tone down the orange.
As with many others I am frustrated with semi transparent stain colors. I was going to use messmers on a 5 year old cedar deck here, and add some oak to the cedar tone, at about 8 cedar to 1 oak in order to give it, a slightly more tannish brown tone. Many have and do comment about not wanting yellow, orange, or red. But when trying to get away from these tones a darker brown, always seems to be the norm. I understand that you are testing the cedar semi AC, on cedar, can you post a picture, or can you give me any suggestions for a tan affect with AC semi. After seeing 2 cedar decks here in Alberta, Canada, that have pretty bad mold, and mildew issues, with Messmers I think I would like to use AC, but it must be ordered, and shipping samples is expensive. Any suggestions? I spoke with Mr. Clark, and rightfully he was a little reluctant to make a recommendation for mixing, as some would criticize, and blame him no matter what they ended up with. I am surprised that only TWP seems to have addressed this color issue, too bad we can not buy it in Canada. I am not real picky, just want slightly more tan/light brown tone. I would love to see cedar semi, on cedar.
Ac semi on cedar is orange as well. There is really not a medium or light brown in any of the stain brands we have tried. You possibly try mixing samples of the Rustic Brown and the Natural for this.
I will be staining our PTP pool deck with AC stain, but uncertain of color due to the chlorine content of the pool. Getting in and out of the pool and what effect it will have on the stain if I go dark (Oxford Brown or Mountain Cedar)) vs light (Driftwood grey or Cedar semi). Thank you for your time and advice
I would think the darker colors will lighten from the bleach. Mountain cedar would probably be your best option.
We have a PT pine deck, 10 years old, treated with Australian Timber Oil 3 years ago. Need retaining. Old stain appears to be gone. DO I need to sand if boards appear fine? Then clean and brighten and stain? Should I choose semitransparent or semi solid for Western exposure? Thinking of Rustic brown. How long may I expect AC to last under normal use? Can you tell me the advantages of AC over TWP please? They seem similar.
Thanks!
Jackie, no need to sand. Clean and brighten for prep. Lasts about 2 or 3 years for floors and longer fore verticals. One is not better than the other. AC applies a little easier. TWP does better with mold resistance. Both last about the same.
What is the longest lasting stain. Like the look of wood, hate the maintenance.
Deck location: Eastern Washington, desert, 8 inches of rain per year
Wood type: redwood
Full sun morning, evening shade (east facing)
No mold or mildew issues
Climate is cold in the winter 20- 30 degrees and hot in the summer 90-100 degrees.
Deck has not been maintained well, really hate having to treat it every year. Stains just seem to fade away. Never had any peeling. Used Cabot semi transparent last, a number of years ago.
Try the Armstrong for this in a semi-solid color for longer UV protection. usually needs to be redone every 2-3 years.
Just built a new red cedar deck and looking into Armstrong Clark stain. We love the look or the natural cedar. Would it be a mistake to go with a transparent? Or should we get a semi for UV protection. Most of the semi cedar tones I have seen turn out orangish and we don't want that. What would recommend for the keeping as close to that natural look as we can?
The lighter it is the quicker it fades. Natural looks great but you will probably need to reapply every 1-2 years. Semi-trans will give longer UV protection but have more pigment. Same with semi-solids. Might want to look at their Amber color.
Ryan, Im also looking for a stain for my new red cedar deck. Im on the north west coast of canada – Haida Gwaii. My deck is covered, but will still def get sun exposure through the sun-tuf and rain on it. Love the natural cedar look and so torn on what to do…and lost int he muddle of stain research on what to do. Started staining deck boards with B Moore Arbourcoat- but stopped and flipped boards down- stain was a dark brown that made the boards look prefab and artificial…a crying shame!!! Have been researching spar urethanes- but that also doesnt seem to be a smart way to go – nor is using Thompsons waterseal products. Did you go with the A Clark stain- what did you go with? Im tempted to do transparent with whatever brand I end up choosing then just ride it out for a few years and fade to grey……help!!
Your advice please on the recommended Armstrong Clark Stain that I applied last October? The deck is mixed, with new pine on the railings and 12 year old redwood on the decking. The project turned out very well last fall even though i didn't have enough of a weather window to use the cleaner and brightener.
Now, wondering if I need to do any of following by way of prep for a followup application: 1) power wash; 2) clean & brighten; 3) light sanding; 4) all of the above. The deck, at 8,000 ft in Colorado, full sun, doesn't have any major issues from the past winter but all stained areas have faded a bit and could use another application.
Thank you.
Just lightly clean and reapply to horizontal areas. You can use a mild concentration of a deck cleaner and a light pressure washing rinse.
I have a 40yr old Redwood deck and had to replace 20% of the deck boards due to rot. Since I could not find old Redwood I used some nice Cedar. It stood out at first but after using RAD stripper and brightener they look relatively even. I just finished sanding and tried some sample AC Redwood transparent and semi-transparent on both the old redwood and new cedar. I ended up with 4 different colors none of which resemble redwood. Two problems, I'd like a redwood color and some relative uniformity. Any suggestions (different stain, manufacturer…) other than replacing the remaining 80%?
You cannot get uniformity with new and older wood. Did you try a semi-solid color like the sequoia?
Could you explain the steps to restore a deck that's been neglected for at least a decade? My husband wants to power wash and then stain, but looking over the Armstrong website, it seems necessary to add cleaning/stripping/brightening into the mix. I'm sure this deck was stained at some point, but don't know with what and how much product actually remains on the wood. The RAD kit contains cleaner, but the website seems to indicate you need to use stripper before staining. Just seems like TOO MANY steps. He's really keen on power-washing; do you need to use cleaner before/after if you PW? Could he just use stripper, power wash, brightener, then stain? Is the brightener necessary (what does it do)? Are all those steps necessary and is that the correct order of operations? So confusing, and discouraging that there seem to be so many steps to deck maintenance.
You should use either a deck cleaner or a deck stain stripper while pressure washing to help aid in the process. It will look better, be easier, and have less damage to the wood. Brighten the wood when done. Stain after drying.
We have a new cedar deck which we put one coat if Thompson's Water sealant on, and we are not happy with the results from Oct to May. It has turned a gray and looks old already. It is also peeling. The deck is about an hour North of Toronto Canada.
What to do? What is recommended to strip the Thompson's sealant off and try something new, such as that Armstrong product?
Remove with a deck stain stripper and brighten the wood for prep. AC would be a much better choice for this.
We are doing a 13yo PTP deck in S.E. Wisc. and I have used a stripper and brightener on it. We have fuzzies from pressure washing which i will get a power sander and sand. Will i need to brighten again after sanding? We really like the wood grain look but was told that semi trans. stains have to be maintained every year but the semi solid Armstrong would last 3 to 5 years. Is this true? Also is there any place to get larger/closer picture of the Armstrong mountain Cedar stain. Was told it is like a tan color but can't find any finished projects to see. Trying to get a light brown natural look with the least maintenance.
Semi-trans are typically every 2 years while a semi solid is more like 2-3 years. Not sure on the pictures but you might want to contact AC for help. Rinse well with water after the sanding.
We have moved into a home with a huge PT deck; multi level including one level that surrounds an on-ground pool. We live in SW Ontario…cold winters, hot summers. I am looking for a qulality product that will not be too hot on the kids' feet in summer. Suggestions?
Carolyn, the Armstrong would be a good choice for this. Darker colors are usually hotter.
Which one is darker… semi-transparent cedar or amber
Faith, about the same but Amber seems a little lighter when we applying it.
So, what happens when it is dry?
hello- we are trying to find a stain for our fence. have you found any difference in quality between the semi-solid and the semi-transparent for Armstrong Clark stains? if the above testing was done with the semi-solid, is it safe to assume the same ratings for the semi-transparent? thanks
Semi-solids will give a little better UV protection.
Advice taken… I performed the second strip yesterday evening and it does look a bit better. Some stubborn stain still remains, despite some heavy scraping and some aggressive (more aggressive than I would have liked for the wood) power-washing. During the aggressive power-washing, I uncovered a few more boards that need to be replaced. I guess the rest of the stain has to come out with sanding. Here's what it looks like now:
While I'm power-sanding the whole thing down, I guess I should order some Restore-A-Deck Cleaner and brightener. I hope I'm on the right track. I appreciate your help in evaluating my mess and progress.
Marc, yes you are on the right track and it does look better!
I appreciate the advice. Natural tone as in transparent stain?
Yes
I live in northern MA and the harsh winters make it a challenge to keep the deck looking nice. I stripped my 15-year old cedar deck, previously covered with an Olympic water-based stain (sorry, didn't know better at the time) and I am in the process of replacing boards and sanding down the whole thing. The wood under the surface doesn't look too bad. The sanding should take me another week or 2. I have a few questions…
1) I was looking at TWP 1500 and Armstrong-Clark stains. I know they both get solid reviews. In particular, I really like the mahogany semi-transparent offered by AC, which appears to look great on IPE. Given the proprieties of cedar, do you think the mahogany color is appropriate for my project? Or is there a better alternative to achieve that red-brown look on cedar such as the following: https://www.armclark.com/assets/img/product_photo_… and https://www.armclark.com/assets/img/product_photo_…
2) While I was able to remove the previous solid dark brown Olympic stain from horizontal surfaces, the vertical ones (spindle rails and posts) are still covered with it and did not come off with the stripper. Hand sanding the whole thing to remove all the previous stain from the rails would take me a year. How should I proceed with the spindle rails?
3) I replaced 5-6 damaged boards. Do I treat these boards the same as the other ones when it will come to staining?
Marc,
1. It will not look the same on cedar. More reddish/orange. Maybe Sequoia or Rustic Brown.
2. It will not strip off. Try a two-toed deck. Solids for verticals and Armstrong for floors. Looks nice and much less maintenance in the future.
3. Yes but the new boards will be lighter and will need a touch up of stain in a year.
Thank you for the prompt reply! It might have to be a 3-tone. To complicate things a bit, I've got some solid white around sides as well. I'm still on the fence about the color, but I do like it when it's wet. Here's what it looks like at the moment, after stripping, replacing some boards and a bit of sanding the top of the rails:
I'm a bit discouraged, but maybe with a picture you can provide better advice on colors/brand and how to proceed than what I was trying to envision. I can use all the help I can get! 🙂
Marc, strip again all floors and sand the rest off. Brighten wood when done. Solid stain all verticals railings, lattice, etc in any color you want. Do a natural tone for the floors.
I live in northern MA and the harsh winters make it a challenge to keep the deck looking nice. I stripped my 15-year old cedar deck, previously covered with an Olympic water-based stain (sorry, didn't know better at the time) and I am in the process of replacing boards and sanding down the whole thing. The wood under the surface doesn't look too bad. The sanding should take me another week or 2. I have a few questions…
1) I was looking at TWP 1500 and Armstrong-Clark stains. I know they both get solid reviews. In particular, I really like the mahogany semi-transparent offered by AC, which appears to look great on IPE. Given the proprieties of cedar, do you think the mahogany color is appropriate for my project? Or is there a better alternative to achieve that red-brown look on cedar such as the following: https://www.armclark.com/assets/img/product_photo_… and https://www.armclark.com/assets/img/product_photo_…
2) While I was able to remove the previous dark brown Olympic stain from horizontal surfaces, the vertical ones (spindle rails and posts) are still covered with it and did not come off with the stripper. Hand sanding the whole thing to remove all the previous stain from the rails would take me a year. How should I proceed with the spindle rails?
3) I replaced 5-6 damaged boards. Do I treat these boards the same as the other ones when it will come to staining?
Need to re-stain my log home. I live at 7800 feet in the Rocky Mountains. Last 3 stains were Cabot Aust. Timber Oil. It lasts about 3 to 4 years on sunny sides of home. More than 9 years on non-sunny sides. Read that they have changed the formula and looking at Armstrong Clark. The Sunny sides of my home tend to dry and wood gets rough after 2 to 3 years. I need a stain that will hold up to the high elevation sun. Suggestions???
Ben, you are correct about formula changes in the Cabot. Armstrong would be a good choice for this.
I used the semi solid Armstrong clark a few times. It still does not dry good. After a month you could take a paper towel and lightly rub the deck, mailbox post whatever, and have color come off. Was real bad for the first week.
So never use it on anything you would sit on. Still not good if just a little bit comes off on your shoes.
Called Armstrong. They did say if you buy their clear to go over it that it seals the color so it does not rub off.
They do not have a a clear so not sure how that would work.
I have not even used the product yet, but called Armstrong to find a local retailer. Jake Clark, the president of the company, answered! He was the nicest and most informative guy. Told me all about the product, when and how to apply and some "secret" tricks of the trade. Going to go this weekend to get some 4 oz samples to get the right color for my new redwood deck. I got Heart B, so want it to really look good.
Looking to use the Anderson Clark stain on our deck, mainly b/c of the "ease of application." I see a garden sprayer was used, did you dilute the stain? Did it clog the sprayer?
Heather, you never should dilute stains as this will ruin the formula. You can spray the AC through a higher quality pump sprayer. Make sure the sprayer has a \”fan\” tip. It does not clog the sprayer.
I just finished building a floating redwood deck, over a cement patio in my back yard. Half of the deck is covered and the other half is exposed to sun, weather, etc. The deck also is right up against our pool, so water will be tracked onto the deck. We live in San Diego, CA, pretty temperate climate, little rain but a lot of sun in the exposed area. I am leaning towards Armstrong Clark stain; would you say that this is the best option? Also, I would like the color a little more brown, any tint suggestions? And, lastly, the deck has been finished about 3 weeks, how much longer should it "weather"?
Thanks!
H.Robinson, best to let it weather for another month or two and prep first to remove the mill glaze. A deck cleaner will do this. AC would be a good choice. The Rustic Brown is a nice color for the AC.
Thanks for the informative website! What technique do you recommend for applying AC stain to outdoor stairs leading up to a deck? (Horizontal surfaces only.) I have no experience staining, but I have prepped the stairs and purchased the stain. I am concerned about the hazards of oily rags. If I use a plastic ground cloth under the stairs, will it be a fire hazard? Thanks!
Christy, get a exterior stain pad for the stairs. You can find them at your local paint store. Plastic will not create a fire hazard.
So much information. I found this site by searching for solutions for cleaning/staining my Mahogany deck. Live in PA. Have a 800-900 sf mahogany deck. It's about 5 years old. 400 sf under cover and 500 sf with SE exposure. I've been using Cabots translucent stain but I'm having to clean, scuff and retreat 2 to 3 times a year and every 2nd year I have to lightly sand the whole thing with an orbital to get rid of the dirt/black discoloration on the section NOT under cover. It's beautiful when done but man what a job! How do you recommend I proceed going forward to clean, stain, maintain and with what frequency?
John,
1. remove the Cabot with a deck stain stripper. We like the Restore A Deck stripper for this.
2. After wood is dry, apply one coat of the AC in the Mahogany.
3. Apply a yearly application of the AC. Make sure to prep first with a deck cleaner (not stripper) before reapplication.
If you ever need to remove in the future, it is much easier to use a stain stripper instead of sanding.
What a great site! After reading your information on AC, I called the company and received great advice from Mr. Clark himself. Looking forward to trying the product. For Oregon and Washington residents, the product is available at Rodda stores
I live in Western Washington and our rainy season has started. There will most likely not be more than 1 or 2 dry days at a time until June 2014. I am having a custom cedar smooth plank fence with attached arbor installed tomorrow. The fence is from freshly cut locally grown cedar. I would like to seal the fence and keep the natural beauty of the cedar. Keeping the natural color and preserving it are my goals. I don't want it to gray. It looks like the semi-transparent cedar is a possible choice. Is that a good choice? How long do I need to let the wood age before I seal? How many days or hours does it need to dry after rain before I can seal it? If I can't seal it this winter, how do I protect it from fading for the next 9 months until I can seal it?
Christina, let weather until Spring. Prep the wood with the Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with the Armstrong but in the Amber for better UV protection.
Thank you for your help. I appreciate it. I wouldn't have thought of the Amber and I appreciate you steering me in that direction.
Welcome!
OK…just re-stained my girlfriend's 1500sf IPE deck. Pressure washed first (deck had not been stained or cleaned for 3 years.) then applied Armstrong Mahogany. It went on like a dream in very hot weather/direct sunlight (90F). Very easy clean up. Drying time was 36-48 hours. I'll be interested to see how it lasts through the fall and winter (Pacific NW). I'll plan for a recoat in June. I enjoyed the look of the pressure-washed exposed wood grain but the Mahogany stain makes the deck look like a million bucks! No more Penofin. Of course, the downside is tracking down an Armstrong dealer!
Hi, This is a great site for info. I have a 20 yr old PTW deck that has been poorly maintained with no sealer or stain left on it for past 5 years. 1250 sq ft total with 800 sf under a covered porch and 450 sf in direct sunlight/partial shade. Have replaced about 100 sq ft of the covered 800 total (almost all in the same area of covered porch) with new PT and left all other parts untouched. I will be using the RAD system soon and then want to stain with AC stain, or maybe TWP brand. The replaced PT is now 1 year old. Will the stain look close in color for the replaced boards that are mixed in along with the older boards under cover, and would a semi-transparent be OK or should a semi-solid be better. I like the semi-transparent as it should show more grain, but wife thinks a semi-solid might blend in the color better on both the new and older boards where they intersect. Thank you in advance for your help as it is greatly appreciated. Ken
Ken, wife is correct. New wood will not blend very well with old. Semi-solids will do a better job of hiding this. Use AC in a semi-solid.
Hi. Thanks so much for the quick reply. Color choice is limited to Mountain Cedar in AC semi-solid and other colors are all too dark for us. We really were hoping for a lighter cedar tone color. I mentioned that all the replaced PT boards intermixed with the old boards (all are under covered porch) were now 1 year old. So does that make them still too new to be able to use a semi-transparent on them to blend in the color with the older boards? We like AC for the ease of use and one coat application, but like the more color choices of TWP which are all semi-trans.Thank you again for your help. We are in our 60's and are first time deck cleaners & stainer's , so ease of use is a consideration. Thank you and we really appreciate all the great advice. Ken
Ken, newer wood will not blend very well with older wood even if the wood is a year old. I would stay with the AC Mountain Cedar.
We used Behr and have now spent $600.00 to have the 1000 ft. of deck cleaned with a heated chemical treatment. There are still some small patches od the grey Behr present. Will Armstrong Clark oxford brown cover this or must it be sanded off. Is the professional cleaning enough or do we still need a cleaner and a brightener? Will ten gallons of Armstrong Clark Oxford brown cover this much decking? how to store leftover stain if We could use it for a light re application next year
Judy, you cannot cover or mask a different stain. It may blend it some but best to test first. If not you should sand. It should be plenty of stain. Keep lid closed so there is not evaporation and it will last.
Thank you for the reply, just to clarify- brightener needed or not after Envirowash heated water/chemical cleaning? After sanding -Sweep it clean or hose off with water?
Just installed a cedar pergola and privacy screens in Philadelphia, PA. Love the natural look but also want protection. Research seems to point me to Armstrong Semi Transparent, but I am concerned that the finished product may change the look of the wood too much. Never stained before, does this product significantly change the color of the wood? Also, the pergola was installed 2 months ago – should I use a wood cleaner, and/or wood brightener or is that overkill? Thanks for the input!
Ken T, all stains which change the look. Clears will not but they also do not offer UV protection from graying. All new wood should be prepped first. Cleaner and brightening will help the stain to work and penetrate better.
I just tried samples of the transparent cedar tone and semi-transparent cedar on my cedar deck. My wife finds the semi-transparent to dark and prefers the transparent one by far. What is the pros/cons of the transparent one vs. semi-transparent? (Location: Montreal)
Thanks for the help
Albert, less pigment (transparent) means fading faster.
Ok, so if I want to avoid the fading I translate this means yearly application versus maybe 2 years with the semi? Is that it? Or even then, the wood will fade faster nonetheless?
Yes
12-18 months with transparents
18-30 months with semi-transparents
24-36 months with semi-solids
Hello,we built a new western red cedar deck with pergola and are looking for a transparent stain to seal/protect and to maintain the 'wet look" but do not wish to add colour. We live in Ontario, Canada and the deck will be in hot sun in the summer and extreme cold/snow in the winter. Wondering if the Armstrong Clark transparent stain is a good option? Thank you!
Leanne, Armstrong Clark in the Amber color would be best. Wait 2-3 months than clean and brighten for the prep first.
I just used TSP+Oxyclean to clean a deck in preparation for sanding it to remove 2yr old Behr stain that is coating some areas of the deck (on other areas it has flaked off). After cleaning I rinsed it off with copious amounts of water.
1. Do I need to use a brightener right away, or can I sand it next week, then clean it again, and then brighten? (or will the high pH of the TSP damage the wood if I wait?).
2. I can't find the 'good' brighteners in stores so it may take a while to acquire online. What makes a brightener good? Is it just dilute oxalic acid?
3. What kind of sander is best: orbital or drum?
Northeaster,
1. Sand, clean and brighten.
2. Brighteners that contain citric, oxalic, or combination.
3. Either is fine.
#1.) I think I read that I should NOT sand my 1yr old PTP deck prior to staining. How, then, do I remove the stamped markings on the new wood?
#2.) Our 1 yr old untreated deck includes 850 sq ft of floor, 6×6 posts, 8 in wide hand rails and a partial pergola. Please recommend the best order for staining? Start high- as in top of pergola?, Start low- with the deck floor, hand rails?
Thank you- Jane
Jane, try a deck cleaner and wood brightener. If a year old the stamps should come off. Always start high and finish last with the floor. You will need to tarp the deck when doing the pergola.
I have new PT deck, built mid-June. My plan for the end of August is to use RAD cleaner/brightener then apply one coat of Armstrong semi-tran cedar. The man doing the work has done many decks but never used these products. He is very skeptical that an oil-based strain can be sprayed on with a pump sprayer. He says what he has used before has been too thick for a sprayer. His usual procedure is to brush stain on the railings then use a stain pad on the decking, working in the stain so it's even and there are no splotches. That probably works, but spraying seems much faster, which means I'd expect a lower price from him. Can you and other Armstrong users confirm that spraying produces excellent results without a special nozzle being on the sprayer.
Also, the deck is 20' x 14', with railings and three steps. Is two gallons of the Armstrong enough or should I order three?
Thanks – Wilson
Wilson, if you spray you will need to back wipe the stain. I doubt the price will be less and in my opinion you should allow him to do it the way he knows best.
Thanks; good advice. For a 20' x 14' deck (new), railings, and three steps, are two gallons of AC semi-tran cedar enough or should I get three?
Wilson, 2-3. Hard to say for sure.
I live in Washington State – lots of rain. My wood deck was stained 2 years ago with one coat of Sherwin Williams Deckscape – waterbased. i would like to restain the deck. Do I have to powerwash the deck or can I just clean it with RAD cleaner? The only area with a little green mold is under the BBQ grill. I am considering TWP 1500 or Defy Epoxy Wood Stain. What else would you recommend? Thanks.
Chris, you need to remove the SW before switching brands. Best to sue a stripper like HD80 or the RAD Stain Stripper for this. Neutralize and brighten when done.
I have my pails of Rustic Brown ready to go. My deck has been cleaned. I used Olympic cleaner, and it looks really good. It has been drying for 24 hours. I want to give it another day or two to dry. Unfortunately, we are expecting a passing storm tomorrow. Should I then wait another 3 days from the end of the rain?
Tom K, depends on how bad it rains. Light rain and you should be good in a day. Heavy downpour, 2 days minimum.
Just finished removing Behr that had peeled over 70% of my deck by sanding the entire surface. I believe I got it all off now. Can I just apply Armstrong Clark to my deck now or do I still need to prep with something else?
Dan, it would be best to prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener after sanding. It will remove sand dust and allow the stain to penetrate better.
Is Armstrong Clark that is shipped to Canada oil based?
Dario, AC is only made in oil-based versions.
Wow ! is the 1st word everyone says about my Sierra Redwood stained deck by Armstrong Clark.. Deck is all pressure treated using micronized copper azole, you know that yellow wood with green marks haha. Does everything it says it does except " on extremely humid days" , then it will games and make you blend forever. Other than that, i got a deck that looks like pure mahogany. tyvm
Kirk, you are welcome!
Great site you have here. I have a new home being constructed and am going to stain the cedar porch posts and cedar gable decorations and pergola. I was wondering if armstrong would be the best product for it. Im more worried about UV protection because there is no way water could sit on it for long. Also since these are so high up on the house, Im trying to find a longer term solution for staining to reduce maintenance. How long should i wait to apply stain and do I need to wash it first since it just came from the lumber yard. Thank you so much
Charlie, please read this: Staining new Decks
Hello, thanks for the detailed review. I have a fence made of pressure-treated pine. I don't know how old but it seems it was never treated. I have had to replace some elements (some balusters and some 2×4 rails), so now I have a mix of old and new. I have pressure washed, so the difference is not as apparent, but still the old wood is a bit darker and probably a lot more porous. I like the color it is right now, and would like to keep it that way. What type of AC stain would you recommend? I'm tempted by natural tone transparent or cedar tone transparent. Or should I consider something like semi-transparent cedar. I don't want something too red or too dark.
Thanks for any advice!
Bruno
Bruno, the lighter the color the faster it will turn gray from UV protection. Tones will last 1-2 years while semi-transparents will last 2-4 years on vertical fences.
I read in a paint forum that one contractor in NJ was having issues with mildew using Armstrong Clark. He claims this stain doesn't hold up that well in warm, humid climates. I have to order 10 gallons of stain for my deck so before I drop $400 on stain I want to be sure I have the best for my specific deck. For a newly built red cedar deck – facing NW – in MN, would you recommend Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500?
Travis
Travis, I would use either but you need to make sure that you wait 4+ months after install with TWP. AC is less then waiting. 2 or 3 months.
I'm installing kdat syp t&g on a covered porch this month in coastal nc. It suggests the wood be stained before installation on all sides, then another coat right afterwards. What stain do you recommend? Also, should it be sanded after installation before the other staining for a better finish? Thanks, Joe
Joe, you need to follow the advice of stain brand manufacturer as to what they suggest for new wood. Most want you to wait for it to weather after install. Please read this article: Staining New Decks
yellawood brand kdat syp t&g covered porch flooring instructions state not to let the wood get any water on it and to apply a oil based stain or paint primer on all sides before it's installed, then another coat immediately after installation is complete. I was considering using AC oil based semi-solid stain as the coat before the wood is installed. Will that give me adequate uv and water protection, along with the color? I get confused about all the recommendations, for uv protection, sealers, stains, etc. Again, would you suggest a light sanding to improve appearance before the second coat of the AC semi- solid stain? Does the AC semisolid stain give me all the protection the porch requires? This is my first porch project and I'm trying to follow the wood manufactures instructions. Thanks, Joe
Joe Pake, best to follow the advice of the stain manufacturer when it comes to what they suggest as to when you can apply their stain to new wood. AC suggests 2-3 months for waiting after install. No need to sand and all you need is one coat of the AC for newer wood. Nothing else will be needed.