How to Stain Pressure-Treated Wood 5/5 (2)

This post was updated on July 2, 2025

Pressure-treated wood is chosen for decks, fences, and other outdoor structures largely because of its durability. The wood is treated with compounds that penetrate the fibers to help resist moisture, fungus, and termites. Despite being treated, finishing pressure-treated lumber is necessary to protect it from exposure to the sun, rain, ice, and other challenges. Here, I will explain how you can stain pressure-treated lumber successfully.

When to Stain New Pressure-Treated Wood

Unlike the drier and more porous wood of an older deck, new pressure-treated lumber usually contains significant moisture from the infusion of water and preservative agents applied during its manufacturing. Therefore, it is best to wait between 3-6 months before staining pressure-treated lumber. The necessary “dry time” for new, treated wood may vary based on the type of wood, the texture, and any drying methods used in production.

Before staining pressure-treated wood, perform a basic moisture test, which involves sprinkling some water on the surface. If the water “beads up” rather than soaking in, you should allow the wood to dry further.

Preparing the Wood for Staining

Surface Preparation

Remove any furniture and other items before starting. For the best results, the wood should be dry, smooth, and free of dirt, old stains, or paint. Using 60 to 80-grit sandpaper, lightly rub down the deck to eliminate splinters and any stubborn remnants.

Cleaning and Brightening

Using a deck cleaning product, thoroughly coat the wood and scrub it with a firm brush. Next, rinse the deck with a power washer at roughly 1,500 to 2.000 psi. Apply a neutralizer or wood brightener, which helps to enhance the absorbency of the wood and restores the pH balance fo your wood after the cleaning.

Stripping and Brightening

If you have an older stain that is transparent or semi-transparent, you will need to remove the older coating first using a deck stain stripper.

Masking and Edge Staining

Using protective materials such as drop cloths, tarps, cardboard, and painter’s tape, cover areas adjacent to the deck such as gardens, siding, or windows. Begin applying stain to edges, spindles, and other hard-to-reach points using a smaller brush or pad.

How to Tell If Pressure-Treated Wood Is Dry Enough to Stain

Ensuring that the wood is dry is important to achieving excellent results when staining pressure-treated wood. Prematurely staining pressure-treated lumber will result in insufficient penetration, which is necessary for effectively protecting against the elements. Also, the stain will trap moisture inside the wood and likely promote mold and mildew.

The Water Drop Test

Most deck stain manufacturers agree that the wood’s moisture content should not exceed 12-15%. Performing a simple water drop test is a quick way to make this determination. Place your fingers into a glass of water to sprinkle some droplets on horizontally positioned wood and wait a few minutes. The water will be absorbed into the wood if it has sufficiently dried. If the water pools or beads up on the surface, the wood will require more dry time.

Using a Moisture Meter

A moisture meter is a digital handheld device that will more precisely measure the dryness of wood. Some meters have metal pins or probes that penetrate the wood and may leave small holes. “Pinless” moisture meters are also available that use a flat sensor to emit electromagnetic waves.

Because dryness may vary, such as from exposure to direct sunlight, be sure to check multiple areas. Armstrong Clark recommends testing the underside of boards and end cuts, which are positioned in the shade.

Best Stains for Pressure-Treated Wood

Oil-Based or Water-Based Stain?

I suggest prioritizing a stain’s ability to deeply penetrate and absorb into the wood rather than if the product is oil or water-based. Three of the best stains are produced by Restore-A-Deck, Armstrong-Clark, and TWP.

The following table summarizes the characteristics and best applications of different stains:

Stain	Drying Time	Opacity	Ideal Use
Restore-A-Deck	2 to 4 Hours	Semi-Transparent	Mold & mildew protection in rainy/ humid climates
Armstrong-Clark	8 to 72 Hours	Transparent, Semi-Transparent, & Semi-Solid	For DIYers (ease of application)
TWP	2 to 8 Hours	Semi-Transparent	Wood aged for more than 4 months

Choose the Right Stain

When selecting a product for staining treated wood, some of the variable considerations include transparency, color, surface condition, and local climate. Some of the primary categories of stain are transparent, semi-transparent, semi-solid, and solid. Transparent stains are ideal for clearly showcasing the natural appearance of the wood. Conversely, a solid stain more closely resembles paint and forms an external coating.

Unlike transparent or semi-transparent stains, solids offer the broadest selection of color options, which might be important if you are trying to match or complement existing wood siding or other objects. Those with older, weathered decks might choose a semi-solid or solid stain, which does a better job of hiding imperfections.

If you live in a region with extreme climate conditions, consider specialized stains. For example, if you live in a sunny, desert region, consider products with enhanced UV resistance such as penetrating oil-based semi-solid wood stains. Meanwhile, if you’re in an area with high humidity (e.g., Louisiana, Mississippi, and Florida), you’ll want a stain specifically formulated to resist mold and mildew.

Choosing a stain that penetrates well is critical when staining treated lumber, particularly when new. Generally, semi-transparent and semi-solid stains that penetrate deeply offer a good balance. These options should provide good UV and water protection without hiding the natural, wood-grain appearance.

Some of the best overall options for staining treated lumber include semi-transparent products from TWP, Armstrong Clark, and Restore-A-Deck.