This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior wood. This article fully explains how to stain exterior rough-sawn wood with helpful time-saving tips. See here for more info about me.
Staining Exterior Rough Sawn Wood
Rough-sawn lumber adds a touch of rustic charm to your home’s exterior —and offers an opportunity to highlight the warmth and texture of natural wood. However, working with rough-sawn lumber differs slightly from staining and preserving smooth wood. Fortunately, the process isn’t difficult, especially when you follow the proper steps to get a long-lasting finish.
At DeckStainHelp.com, we’re experts at wood deck restoration, and we’re always glad to help homeowners with their exterior wood projects. Read our tips for staining rough-sawn wood, and you should have no trouble with the task! But if you have any questions, feel free to leave us a comment and let us help you.
Key Takeaways
- Prep properly – Sweep new wood; clean and brighten weathered wood before staining.
- Pick the right stain – Penetrating stains protect best; semi-transparent enhances grain, solid offers more coverage.
- Apply with care – Use a sprayer for the first coat, then a brush or pad for even coverage. Mask off areas to prevent overspray.
- Follow best techniques – Stain in 60-80°F weather, avoid rain, and choose wet-on-wet or wiping methods based on wood condition.
- Maintain regularly – Clean often and reapply stain as needed, especially in high-traffic or sun-exposed spots.
What Is Rough-Cut Lumber?
Rough-textured wood, also known as rough-sawn lumber, is wood that is used as originally cut: It has not been smoothed out or sanded like most lumber is. It’s becoming a more popular type of wood for homeowners and is commonly used for exterior wood fences, decking trim, and house trim. Typical wood types used are cedar and pine.
Scott’s Tips for Staining Rough Sawn Wood
- Prep the wood.
- Determine if New or Old Wood.
- Choose your Rough-Sawn Wood Stain
- How To Stain Rough-Sawn Wood Tips
- Maintaining Rough Sawn Wood
- Inspiration? Rough-Sawn Photo Gallery
1. How to Prepare Rough-Sawn Wood for Staining
As mentioned, it’s possible to stain rough-sawn wood. However, the unique material may require a slightly different touch than smooth lumber. This is particularly true if you’re using new rough-sawn wood or if your rough-cut lumber has experienced significant exposure to the elements.
Generally speaking, you’ll need to clean and prep your wood before applying stain, but the process may vary depending on its age and condition. Learn more about how to treat rough-cut lumber for outdoor use.
2. New Wood vs. Weathered Wood
Planning to stain brand-new rough-cut lumber? You’re in luck! The prep process is fairly straightforward. Simply use a broom or a leaf blower to remove any dust or debris. Next, make sure the lumber is completely dry before applying stain.
The process may be slightly more involved if you have older stained rough-cut lumber that has experienced UV or moisture exposure. For older wood, we recommend a thorough cleaning. Start by applying a deck cleaner solution and letting it sit for 10 to 20 minutes before scrubbing the boards or pressure washing to remove dirt, mold, and mildew. When done, follow up with a wood brightener.
If you have an old stain that needs removing, use a wood deck stain stripper and pressure washing to remove it, followed by a wood brightener when done.
My Pro Tip: Cleaning Solutions for Rough-Cut Lumber
Use a proper wood and deck cleaner when cleaning your rough-sawn cut wood. Use Restore-a-Deck’s wood cleaner and brightener kit for an exterior-friendly wood cleaner.
3. Choosing the Right Stain for Rough-Sawn Lumber
With so many products on the market, finding the best stain for rough-cut lumber can be overwhelming. Take a closer look at some of the most common options, including penetrating and film-forming products and solid and semi-transparent coats.
Penetrating vs. Film-Forming Stains
As the name suggests, penetrating stains soak into the open pores of rough-cut lumber, sealing the wood against moisture, grime, and UV damage. On the other hand, film-forming stains dry on top of the wood, similar to traditional paint. While film-forming stains work as a protective coating over wood, these types of stain can peel or flake more easily than penetrating options.
Solid vs. Semi-Transparent Stains
You may find both solid and semi-transparent options well-suited to rough-cut lumber. Solid stains bridge the gap between paint and stain, providing opaque, even coverage over your boards and concealing the natural wood grain. Due to their thickness, solid stains can provide the most UV and moisture damage protection. However, most solid stains form a film over the wood rather than penetrating the boards, which may lead to flaking and peeling. Alternatively, semi-transparent stains add a hint of color without entirely hiding the wood grain.
With all that said, we’ve found that a penetrating semi-transparent deck finish is the best choice for rough-sawn wood because it will soak into the wood more effectively, penetrating and sealing its pores.
Color Options to Consider
Some of our favorite stains for rough-cut lumber include natural tones like rich, chocolatey browns, honey hues, and redwoods. However, if you prefer a more opaque look, consider a solid gray or blue stone to create a beachy vibe or black and charcoal for a sleek, modern look.
4. How to Stain Rough-Cut Lumber: Application Tips
Are you getting ready to apply stain to rough-cut lumber? Consider the following tips to ensure an even application and a beautiful, long-lasting finish.
#1 Weather Considerations
Before getting started, check your local weather forecast and ensure it won’t rain for the next 12 to 24 hours. It’s also best to apply wood stain when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees. It should not drop below 32 degrees within 8 hours of staining. And try not to stain in direct sunlight.
#2 Surface Preparation
When staining rough-cut pine or cedar, it’s important to prepare the wood before application, as discussed above. If the wood is new, you can skip this step. Otherwise, use a wood cleaner to break loose any dirt, grime, and gray fibers. Then, wash the wood surface with a stiff brush or pressure washer.
If you have an old stain that needs removing, use a wood deck stain stripper and pressure washing to remove it, followed by a wood brightener when done.
Be careful not to use excessive pressure that could damage the wood surface. After using a wood cleaner or stain stripper, a wood brightener should be applied to neutralize the pH level and brighten the wood back to its original appearance. Note: If the wood is new, no prepping is needed and staining can be done right away.
Once the wood dries after cleaning, it’s time to stain.
#3 Application Methods
You can use a brush and/or stain pad to stain rough-cut lumber. A brush is good at getting into corners and cutting in along edges. Just be sure to opt for a stiffer brush instead of a soft paintbrush. A stiff brush will allow you to work the stain into the rough wood grain, especially in tight corners or detailed areas.
An exterior stain pad is best for pushing stain into the rough surface. Mask off any areas you do not want stained, and stain one board or section at a time to eliminate lap marks. Then, follow up with a brush to ensure even coverage in particularly rough or knotty spots.
Using a pump or airless sprayer, you can also apply most semi-transparent stains to rough-sawn wood. Spraying the stain can allow it to get into the rough texture of the surface with less effort than brushing or rolling. Just be sure to mask any windows, siding, concrete, and other surfaces in the area to avoid overspraying. In addition, start with a light first coat to avoid oversaturating the wood. If not, the stain may pool in uneven areas of crevices.
Our favorite method for staining rough-cut cedar or pine is to use both approaches. First, lightly spray on the first coat with a pump sprayer. This will absorb deeply, giving a nice base coat. We then follow up with a stain pad or brush to apply a second coat right away. This will ensure nice, even coverage.
#4 Coating Techniques
There are several techniques for applying stain, including the wet-on-wet technique and the wiping technique. With the wet-on-wet technique, you apply a second coat of stain before the first dries, allowing the stain to penetrate deeply into the wood boards. This is generally a better fit for dry, thirsty wood. The wiping technique involves using a rag to wipe away excess stain for a lighter application.
Regardless of the technique used, always follow the instructions on the stain label and wear proper personal protection. When you’re done applying the stain, use mineral spirits or soapy water to clean up all of your equipment and tools after staining.
5. Maintaining Rough-Sawn Lumber
Like any type of wood, stained, rough-sawn lumber requires regular maintenance to look its best. To avoid build-up and remove dirt and debris, clean the wood regularly.
Sweep the boards or use a stiff-bristled brush for tighter areas, and consider a deeper clean quarterly, if not every spring and fall. Finally, pay attention to the wood and reapply stain and sealant as necessary, especially in high-traffic areas or spots that receive direct sunlight. This will help protect the wood while maintaining the boards’ desired appearance.



















Thank you for your publication! We just put up a simple 2 car garage and sided it with rough cut hemlock. In upstate NY buildings left to weather naturally turn blackish, more so as it gets closer to the ground. I’d really appreciate a suggestion that with some maintenance will preserve the natural color and prevent the blackening. Thank you
Look at the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
or Armstrong Clark:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/armstrong-clark-wood-deck-stain-review/
Staining cypress for mantel. What color stain is the 3rd one
Not 100% sure, but it could be TWP 1503 Dark Oak or Armstrong Clark Natural Oak. You can get some sample test colors here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product-category/stain-samples/
Hello! This post was very helpful, thank you for sharing your tips. Would you happen to have any advice on our current staining situation? We used rough cut pine to make box beams and used minwax early American penetrating stain. We asked the painters to use conditioner in hopes it would prevent blotchiness. The seams and nail spots are very noticeable and the rough cut spots are darker than expected. Do you think sanding the stain off and reapplying without conditioner would help? The front door is “stain grade” and it is also extremely blotchy. We are thinking maybe moisture was the issue here. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry but we work with exterior wood such as decks, fences, wood homes, etc. Not interior stains or doors.
I’m building a deck and using fresh rough sawn Douglas fir for the posts. Do I need to apply a wood conditioner before staining?
No.
Hi there,
We have rough cut columns and rough cut wood on the ceiling of our porch…..I have used minwax natural penetrating oil stain on them but it just looks like such a flat finish….is there anything I can use to add some kind of sheen without it flaking off…..I pressure wash every year or so to keep the wood protected but I want a little sheen to it…. Is there something out there I can use without flaking? Thanks so much.
Minwax does not work for exterior wood, and you cannot add a shiny coating to exterior wood, as that leads to peeling.
What would you suggest using on them?
Any penetrating exterior wood stain. You will need to remove the minwax first.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
I have raw unfinished 70s wood paneling in my house. I want to stain to neutralize the orange tones. When I tried applying stain in a test area, the wood soaked up the stain really fast. Do you have any suggestions on how to apply this evenly and what stain to use for a neutralize the orange
Sorry, but we only work with exterior wood.
Would a plastic house hold spray bottle work to apply st ain on rough ceader ? Thank you
Probably not.
Hi, I’m trying to accomplish this look with rough sawn pine. Any suggestions would be appreciated
That is a “white wash” look. No exterior stain we know of will give you that look.
I forgot to say white oak!! Wood
heather
I live in western Pennsylvania. We renovating our front porch to include exposed rough cut white columns and header beam. The wood was dried and never stained before. I’m looking for a walnut color semi transparent stain. Any recommendations
thank you
Look at the Restore A Deck Stains in Dark Walnut or Light Walnut. Another option would be the Armstrong Clark Stains.
Hi there!
So glad I came across your page. I had a question about some wood accent walls we did in our house a few years back. We ended up going with this because it was cost effective. I want to know if it’s possible to stain this wood or use a wood conditioner to alter the color to more of a cooler undertone ? It looks different in natural lighting . Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks .
Sorry, our products and advice are for the exterior only. We do not know of anything that will work for this interior wall.
Hello Scott,
I live in a mid-century modern style home that had a sunroom added to it many years ago. The sunroom is 13 ft x 18 ft.
The walls and ceiling are rough sawn cedar with a red tinted stain on the wood. The room is mostly sliding glass doors on 3.5 of the 4 walls and it has a big clear hard plastic bubble in the center of the ceiling.
Many years of sun have faded the stain unevenly over the years. It’s time for a refresh of the entire room but I don’t want to keep the RED stain.
I’d like to change the look and feel of the sunroom to a light to medium taupe color but still keeping the rough sawn look and feel of the wood along with the transparency of the stain.
How do I prep/clean the surfaces?
95% of the surfaces are vertical and it’s on a conventional foundation attached to our main house with a tile floor so I’d prefer not to use a power washer.
How do I get the stain results I want with the current state the surfaces are in?
The only way I know to prep this (correctly) is to pressure wash with a stripper and then brighten, which is not feasible in your scenario. Too much water and potential damage. You cannot sand rough-sawn and not sure if applying over the current stain will achieve proper adhesion and results. The latter may be your only option and hope it works. Maybe test spot? BTW, exterior semi-transparent wood stains do not come in taupe colors. You would need a custom mix, and it will become more of a solid stain.
One more question…
What is the best method to apply the stain to this room’s walls and ceiling?
Thank you for the response!
Exterior stain pads or brushes. Tarp well, as it will drip.
Hi! I built a fence last fall with new rough cut poplar wood. I am now ready to stain/seal after letting it dry over the past 6-8 months. I read your advice above but wonder what type of prep I need to do. Is my wood considered ‘new’ or ‘weathered’? I had planned to do either a semi-transparent stain or just a clear sealer. I have been looking at SW Super Deck product but concerned about all the comments about peeling. I plan to apply with an airless sprayer. What product do you recommend? Thanks!
Clean and brighten for prep. Use Restore A Deck Stain or Armstrong Clark stain.
Thank you for the quick response!
We purchased a 40yr old rough cedar sided home near Blue Ridge GA. Previous owner didn’t do anything in the 6 years they lived there other than apply clear sealer but they’re unsure what was used. It’s got some lighter spots and areas where nails can be seen but overall just needs a refresh. No mildew visible, only dirt and pollen. Do we pressure clean or soft wash? Then approximately how long until we can reseal? What products do you suggest? We prefer the transparent/semi look vs solid. We have paint sprayers, do you suggest we use them or to hand brush? Thank you for your guidance.
Post pics in the comments for prep help.
Thank you. Sorry, I thought I had.
You have a semi-transparent stain on the wood, not a clear one. If you do not know what was used prior, you will need to remove it and start over with a new brand of stain. Post a close-up of the wood so we can offer tips on how to remove it.
Thank you. The last owners said they applied a protective clear, that’s all we know, but we don’t know what kind or brand. These are 2 different sides of the house, before and after pressure washing.
It’s still rough, so apparently it hasn’t been sanded previously and we like that. We’d like to protect it and keep with the transparent stained look. Any help/steps are appreciated.
Use the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper with Booster and the Gel additives. Apply, wait about 20 minutes, and pressure wash off. Do it in sections and repeat until done. Brighten all after. As for the stain, use one of these brands:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Thank you, we appreciate your expert advice. Sounds perfect for our job.
Just curious, how is it obvious that there’s no clear on it currently? It looks shiny in some areas, like the back wall under the rear covered porch that doesn’t get direct sunlight. The prior owner is a widow and unsure what her husband used but thought it was a clear coat. Thank you for educating us for this job and future maintenance.
It is clearly a tinted (brownish cedar color) stain, and you cannot apply a clear coat over a wood stain, it would peel.
Thank you.
And can we use an airless to apply the stain?
Most brands, yes.
Ok thanks.
I am making shutters out of rough sawn cedar and I am apply tung oil to them. Is there any particular application and do I need to add a protective coating to maintain the color? Also, what kind of future maintenance is required. I live in Michigan and they will be going through harsh winters.
Tung oil is useless. It offers no UV protection and attracts mildew and mold. You need to remove it if you appled it and use a proper wood stain as you cannot apply a stain over top of it.
See here.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Just finished building an outdoor shed using rough cut pine that was cut and milled on our property. Would like to preserve the rustic new wood look, but not sure what kind of stain to use. Natural probably, but water or oil based?. Something mildew resistant is a must. It is very woodsy and damp here in the Adirondack Mountains of New York with long winters.
Use Restore-A-Deck Semi-transparent stain in Natural color. It will work better for mildew and mold prevention.
I have cedar ceiling and some walls on all of the interior of home. Some old with an oil stain from 45 years. Now some new replaced from damage/storm. Also have some water marks need cleaning, wish to keep the ruff look. What do you recommend to stain over this ruff cedar?
Sorry Jacky, but we work with exterior coatings, not interior. Not sure what would be best for you here.
any idea how can you remove paint from stained raw cedar? thanks
Typically you sand off paint or you can try this.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel-review/
Hello Scott, I have rough sawn pine boards that i will be installing over drywall in the living area of my carriage house. Any suggestions on how, and what to treat the boards with?
Try Restore-A-Deck in a semi-transparent color.
I am staining a rough sawn pine fireplace mantel. Any suggestions on stain…oil or water based? After rolling or brushing on the stain, do I try to rub it off with a rag? Any other tips? Thank you.
Application is based on the brand you go with so just follow their directions once picked out. As for oil ot water-based, it does not matter.
What stain did you use to get the “dark oak on rough cut lumber” picture above? Thanks!
It was TWP in 100 or 1500 Series.
Thanks!
I’m using two oil based stains (Chestnut then Gray) to stain rough sawn pine board and would like to apply a sealer. The board will be used as exterior trim. Any recommendations on the type of sealer that can be used. I’m hesitant to use tung oil due to the drying time and number of coats. I’d like to complete this before temps in NJ drop below freezing, a few weeks at best. Considered water based spar urethane but I’m concerned about the effectiveness of sanding rough sawn wood between coats. Thanks!
You cannot apply a sealer over an exterior wood or deck stain. It will peel if you do.
Scott, thanks for the reply. Are you aware of any finish I can apply to oil based stained pine boards that are being used as exterior trim. I’m using Varathane oil based penetrating wood stain. I’m trying to improve their water resistance and longevity. Thanks
You are using the wrong type of stain. You cannot use interior stain for exterior wood. What you are using will not provide any UV resistance from graying and water repellency. It will also attract mildew.
I have a piece of pine that is at least 50 years old, never used. Dried in a barn attic with some sun bleach areas that I don’t care for but I love the rough saw marks on it and want to use it for a fireplace mantle. How can I stain it if it’s rough? Wiping off stain on a rough surface and should I condition it first?
Not hard, just stain it. No need to condition.
I want to protective my new-last-Fall rough-cut cedar raised planter beds and fencing with clear stain. I’ve heard conflicting statements about whether the wood needs sanding before staining. Your opinion?
Do not sand. Clean and brighten for prep.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
You must have a tint if you want UV protection from graying:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/will-a-clear-sealer-prevent-graying-on-deck/
We have the typical red cabin with green roof and trim. Even the Anderson window trim is green. I’m tired of this look.
can the red be stained a different color without sanding the entire cabin? It is rough sawed siding with knots.
We would need to see some pics to answer this properly.
I have a tall cathedral ceiling that is covered in rough cedar and over the years I just got sick of the orange look and I want to have it painted. Can this be spray painted by a professional?
Yes, but do not use a paint. Use a solid color deck stain. See here for the best options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Wilson
Hi! I want to install natural wood, put stain and two coats of oil-based in my house.
My question is! Can I do it for interior floors or not?
Thanks.
Hi, we only work with exterior stains and coatings. Interior is much different.
Hi I’ve built a barn out of old hand hune beams, I would like to stain my new rough sawn pine boards with a grey stain that has the look of weathered grey , having a hard time finding a product that has the right tone , question I I stain with a light grey ,either oil or preferably water based will the pine weather or darken with time? I t+ g all the boards so would like to stain them before installing
Thanks Dave
No, they should not darken over time. Try the TWP semi-solid for more color options:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-semi-solid-pro-series
How do you suggest removing water stains on interior cedar tongue and groove ceiling boards? my roof leaked and now I have water marks. I would prefer to keep the would its natural cedar color vs staining it to cover up the water marks. Any suggestions? I realize you have been discussing decks, but thought I would ask.
Thank you.
You can try a wood brightener but in many cases, the water stains are throughout the entire board. This means it cannot be removed fully.
Help! We stained are rough cut pine beams with SW oil based semi transparent in 2017 with the color Yankee Barn. We like the red color then but want a more dark walnut or espresso look to it and get rid of the red color. We have over 3,000 sq of decking around the whole house and really dont want to have to sand but don’t like the look of solid stain either. Can we use a darker oil based stain in maybe a semi solid? SW only had water based semi solid, would that matter? Please help!
Whenever you switch brands or bases of semi-transparent stains, you need to remove the old coating first. You will need to strip and brighten for prep. Try the Restore a Deck Stripper/Brightener kit with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Once prepped, use any top stain brand that you like: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Wanting to stain bandsawn pine beams Have tested a few water based stains but it’s coming out way to dark and looks like paint. Wanting a light color of grayish brown. Any ideas?
You want a semi-transparent stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Try Armstrong Clark or TWP stains.
Is it acceptable to sand rough sawn barn board just a little to get rid of the loose fibers which give a rougher look than I would like and make it difficult to brush on stain. I will be installing Board and Batten to my whole house.
Hand sanding lightly to remove splinters and loose fibers is okay.
Hi,
I am having a shed built and am looking for the proper stain product for the door. The door is made from T1-11 and is rough plywood. I need a deep, rich chocolate brown color. I live in Colorado at 7300 feet so need it to protect from sun, wind and snow. I have looked at all kinds of products and just can’t make a decision because there seems to be no consensus. TWP got good reviews I think, but you can’t buy it in a store and I don’t want to take a chance buying it online. Cabot, Penofin, Messmers, Ready Seal are all products I’ve come across. I can’t get the workers in the stores to be of real help either. They don’t seem to really know. I bought Old Masters from a paint store because the guy said it was great for my needs. Got home and read the label….it’s a interior stain. Ugh!! I appreciate any help!
The best options would be the TWP 1500 series in Dark Oak or Armstrong Clark in Espresso. We would not use any of the other brands you suggested.
Says best to stain rough lumber (cypress & pine) 60-80°. It won’t be that for couple months. What temp can I do it and still get good results?
That would vary based on the brand of stain you are using and what they suggest for temp range. They are not all the same.
Hi Scott- what a great resource!
I am planning to rebuild a mantle area in home in Colorado and lust looking at my DIY options. I found some pretty affordable true 2″ by 12″ rough sawn cedar beams but they are sort of dirty and I am not sure if I can get them into good shape… from reading other responses here, I’m thinking I could pressure wash them and then use the restore A deck products to clean and brighten them up?
Yes, that would work fine. Post some pics when installed.
I have rough sawn pine mantle and fireplace sides. We put Minwax semi-transparent oil based stain on. It’s been 4 days and there are still spots that look damp/tacky. We had fans on it trying to get it to dry, but still the same issue. Is there any way to speed up the process?
Sorry but no idea. We only work with exterior stains. Minwax is interior use only.
building a rough-cut hardwood log beam cabin, (ash & oak) looking for a stain and preservative product.
Try TWP Stains or Restore A Deck Stains.
spoke with TWP tech support, they said to age the cabin 4 months before applying, seems like a long time with no protection. How does woodrich timber oil compare to TWP
3-4 months is normal for all new wood to weather and then be prepped if the wood is smooth. Rough sawn cut can be stained right away if clean and dry.
TWP and new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I just had a 4 season room installed on the. Ack of my house. They wrapped the beam with rough sawn cedar. Do I need to seal it or can I just leave it? Being it won’t be in weather will it turn gray or black over time?
Can you upload a picture of it?
We bought a house with cedar siding on parts of the exterior… we don’t know what kind of stain, seal or conditioner has been applied. We just finished using a cleaner and pressure washing it, which removed a lot of dirt. It looks dry and old still, what can we do to freshen it up and give it a healthier look?
Post some pics.
My house has rough sawn cedar siding and the stain has gone in the sunny spots, can you help me find the right process and product to restore it where it is sun damaged?
Strip and brighten all with Restore A Deck Products. Stain with TWP Stains or Restore A Deck Stains.
Help! Part of our home is rough sawn cedar which was painted with a semi transparent acrylic stain by previous owner (our best guess – we do not have the can). A contractor power washed it to remove the stain with limited success. About 50% of the stain is gone; some of the remaining stain is peeling in thin ribbons. My husband says if you sand the rough sawn cedar it will destroy its character. However, he would like to coat this with a semi transparent Oil base stain for easier maintenance going forward. Everything we’ve read said you have to completely remove the old stain first. How can we successfully remove the old stain before coating the rough sawn cedar with a semi transparent oil base stain?
Post pictures.
Here’s a photo
Try the RAD Striper with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Apply stripper and wet for an hour making sure it does not dry out by misting if needed. Pressure wash off. Repeat if needed. Brighten all when done.
Great advice! The RAD stripper works well. However, after stripping the railings around the deck, we realize this is a labor-intensive, expensive job. But we have roughly 500 ft.² of the cedar siding to go. Can I lightly sand the loose stain and apply a solid, water-based stain over this to avoid stripping it all?
Yes: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hello! I’ve built a western red cedar deck, I live in the northwest were it is very rainy but decks also suffer from a lot of UV. I’m really struggling to decide on the best coating to keep my cedar looking like natural cedar but still protecting it :( I would love for it to look just like wet cedar. I’m happy to pressure wash and reapply something every year if that’s what will give me the desired result. Any recommendations?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
As for color, let us know which stain brand you are leaning towards and we can offer help with a color similar to a wet look.
Hello,
We are building a rough cedar pergola above the garage. I’d like a sunbleached or white. What stain would you recommend?
Thanks.
You would need a solid stain like this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
or a semi-solid stain like this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/twp-semi-solid-pro-series-wood-and-deck-stain-review/
Hello – My son used a water-based stain on a rough sawn lightly planed old oak wood mantle. The water-based stain raised the grain quite a bit more than desired or expected. We don’t want a glossy finish but also feel like the grain is raised too much and will trap dust and a cleaning cloth will snag, stick, or leave lint on the surface. I was thinking of burnishing the wood with hard maple or using a scraper plane on a very fine setting and then reapplying the stain. Or perhaps to use more stain as a lubricant while I apply stain using denim with medium-hard pressure and/or rubbing with hardwood to flatten some of the elevated wood fibers. I fear if I burnish the surface stain will not penetrate evenly or well and if I plane it the newly cut wood will not color as well as the recesses. I do want to preserve most of the saw marks but don’t like the rough feel of the elevated grain after using the water-based stain. Once I get the highest rough elevated grain down and re-stained for even color, I thought I would just use 100% natural tung oil thinned with orange oil. It will be exposed to some heat from the gas fireplace so leaving it natural and unfinished concerns me. Advice?
Sorry, but we have no idea about this. We work with exterior wood stains and they cannot be top coated or burnished.
Hey, our home is sided with rough sawn cedar. We got hail last year and it left divets in the Siding. My insurance company wants to sand the rough sawn siding down and re-stain. I am saying that changes the appearance and effect of the siding as it won’t absorb stain the same as the undamaged sides and make the appearance different. Do you have an opinion on that? They obviously don’t believe me as the homeowner.
You are right and you cannot spot redo, you would have to redo all sides so it stains evenly.
Thanks, would you also agree that your rough sawn siding would now be smooth cedar Siding? The appearance would be different than rough sawn?
Yes, it really should be replaced to have the same look.
We purchased rough sawn pine boards from our local saw mill to make faux beams for the interior of our home. The pine is a Florida pine. We have played around with stains, even mixing them, but the boards absorb and they become way too dark or going light they look Orange. Is there a way we can get a medium brown tone?
Try a stain that is medium to dark brown.
Will do. Thank you
Our contractor installed rough sawn north white pine barn panels on our opened covered deck. We are on the water so it will be exposed to salt water spray. What should I use to seal and protect the natural color? Thanks!
Try TWP Stains or Restore a Deck Stains.
I bought rough Cyprus 8in post with deep black saw marks for my front porch. Tried sanding but no end. Is there anything I can do to hide or may these post look nice.. thought I was getting a deal.. please help.
There is no way to get the black “burn” saw blade marks out besides sanding.
If I’m using rough sawn wood on my dock should I put a wood preservative before I stain
No need.