Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior wood. This article fully explains how to stain exterior rough-sawn wood with helpful time-saving tips. See here for more info about me.
- Prep rough-sawn wood properly: sweep new lumber clean, or use a deck cleaner, stain stripper, and wood brightener on weathered or previously stained wood.
- A penetrating semi-transparent stain is the best choice for rough-sawn wood, soaking into open pores to seal against moisture, UV damage, and grime.
- Apply stain using a pump sprayer for the first coat, then follow immediately with a stain pad or brush to ensure even, deep coverage across rough surfaces.
- Stain only when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, no rain is expected for 12 to 24 hours, and direct sunlight is avoided.
Staining Exterior Rough Sawn Wood
Rough-sawn lumber adds a touch of rustic charm to your home’s exterior —and offers an opportunity to highlight the warmth and texture of natural wood. However, working with rough-sawn lumber differs slightly from staining and preserving smooth wood. Fortunately, the process isn’t difficult, especially when you follow the proper steps to get a long-lasting finish.
At DeckStainHelp.com, we’re experts at wood deck restoration, and we’re always glad to help homeowners with their exterior wood projects. Read our tips for staining rough-sawn wood, and you should have no trouble with the task! But if you have any questions, feel free to leave us a comment and let us help you.
Key Takeaways
- Prep properly – Sweep new wood; clean and brighten weathered wood before staining.
- Pick the right stain – Penetrating stains protect best; semi-transparent enhances grain, solid offers more coverage.
- Apply with care – Use a sprayer for the first coat, then a brush or pad for even coverage. Mask off areas to prevent overspray.
- Follow best techniques – Stain in 60-80°F weather, avoid rain, and choose wet-on-wet or wiping methods based on wood condition.
- Maintain regularly – Clean often and reapply stain as needed, especially in high-traffic or sun-exposed spots.
Rough Sawn Deck Trim
What Is Rough-Cut Lumber?
Rough-textured wood, also known as rough-sawn lumber, is wood that is used as originally cut: It has not been smoothed out or sanded like most lumber is. It’s becoming a more popular type of wood for homeowners and is commonly used for exterior wood fences, decking trim, and house trim. Typical wood types used are cedar and pine.
Scott’s Tips for Staining Rough Sawn Wood
- Prep the wood.
- Determine if New or Old Wood.
- Choose your Rough-Sawn Wood Stain
- How To Stain Rough-Sawn Wood Tips
- Maintaining Rough Sawn Wood
- Inspiration? Rough-Sawn Photo Gallery
1. How to Prepare Rough-Sawn Wood for Staining
As mentioned, it’s possible to stain rough-sawn wood. However, the unique material may require a slightly different touch than smooth lumber. This is particularly true if you’re using new rough-sawn wood or if your rough-cut lumber has experienced significant exposure to the elements.
Generally speaking, you’ll need to clean and prep your wood before applying stain, but the process may vary depending on its age and condition. Learn more about how to treat rough-cut lumber for outdoor use.
2. New Wood vs. Weathered Wood
Planning to stain brand-new rough-cut lumber? You’re in luck! The prep process is fairly straightforward. Simply use a broom or a leaf blower to remove any dust or debris. Next, make sure the lumber is completely dry before applying stain.
The process may be slightly more involved if you have older stained rough-cut lumber that has experienced UV or moisture exposure. For older wood, we recommend a thorough cleaning. Start by applying a deck cleaner solution and letting it sit for 10 to 20 minutes before scrubbing the boards or pressure washing to remove dirt, mold, and mildew. When done, follow up with a wood brightener.
If you have an old stain that needs removing, use a wood deck stain stripper and pressure washing to remove it, followed by a wood brightener when done.
My Pro Tip: Cleaning Solutions for Rough-Cut Lumber
Use a proper wood and deck cleaner when cleaning your rough-sawn cut wood. Use Restore-a-Deck’s wood cleaner and brightener kit for an exterior-friendly wood cleaner.
3. Choosing the Right Stain for Rough-Sawn Lumber
With so many products on the market, finding the best stain for rough-cut lumber can be overwhelming. Take a closer look at some of the most common options, including penetrating and film-forming products and solid and semi-transparent coats.
Penetrating vs. Film-Forming Stains
As the name suggests, penetrating stains soak into the open pores of rough-cut lumber, sealing the wood against moisture, grime, and UV damage. On the other hand, film-forming stains dry on top of the wood, similar to traditional paint. While film-forming stains work as a protective coating over wood, these types of stain can peel or flake more easily than penetrating options.
Solid vs. Semi-Transparent Stains
You may find both solid and semi-transparent options well-suited to rough-cut lumber. Solid stains bridge the gap between paint and stain, providing opaque, even coverage over your boards and concealing the natural wood grain. Due to their thickness, solid stains can provide the most UV and moisture damage protection. However, most solid stains form a film over the wood rather than penetrating the boards, which may lead to flaking and peeling. Alternatively, semi-transparent stains add a hint of color without entirely hiding the wood grain.
With all that said, we’ve found that a penetrating semi-transparent deck finish is the best choice for rough-sawn wood because it will soak into the wood more effectively, penetrating and sealing its pores.
Color Options to Consider
Some of our favorite stains for rough-cut lumber include natural tones like rich, chocolatey browns, honey hues, and redwoods. However, if you prefer a more opaque look, consider a solid gray or blue stone to create a beachy vibe or black and charcoal for a sleek, modern look.
4. How to Stain Rough-Cut Lumber: Application Tips
Are you getting ready to apply stain to rough-cut lumber? Consider the following tips to ensure an even application and a beautiful, long-lasting finish.
#1 Weather Considerations
Before getting started, check your local weather forecast and ensure it won’t rain for the next 12 to 24 hours. It’s also best to apply wood stain when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees. It should not drop below 32 degrees within 8 hours of staining. And try not to stain in direct sunlight.
#2 Surface Preparation
When staining rough-cut pine or cedar, it’s important to prepare the wood before application, as discussed above. If the wood is new, you can skip this step. Otherwise, use a wood cleaner to break loose any dirt, grime, and gray fibers. Then, wash the wood surface with a stiff brush or pressure washer.
If you have an old stain that needs removing, use a wood deck stain stripper and pressure washing to remove it, followed by a wood brightener when done.
Be careful not to use excessive pressure that could damage the wood surface. After using a wood cleaner or stain stripper, a wood brightener should be applied to neutralize the pH level and brighten the wood back to its original appearance. Note: If the wood is new, no prepping is needed and staining can be done right away.
Once the wood dries after cleaning, it’s time to stain.
#3 Application Methods
You can use a brush and/or stain pad to stain rough-cut lumber. A brush is good at getting into corners and cutting in along edges. Just be sure to opt for a stiffer brush instead of a soft paintbrush. A stiff brush will allow you to work the stain into the rough wood grain, especially in tight corners or detailed areas.
An exterior stain pad is best for pushing stain into the rough surface. Mask off any areas you do not want stained, and stain one board or section at a time to eliminate lap marks. Then, follow up with a brush to ensure even coverage in particularly rough or knotty spots.
Using a pump or airless sprayer, you can also apply most semi-transparent stains to rough-sawn wood. Spraying the stain can allow it to get into the rough texture of the surface with less effort than brushing or rolling. Just be sure to mask any windows, siding, concrete, and other surfaces in the area to avoid overspraying. In addition, start with a light first coat to avoid oversaturating the wood. If not, the stain may pool in uneven areas of crevices.
Our favorite method for staining rough-cut cedar or pine is to use both approaches. First, lightly spray on the first coat with a pump sprayer. This will absorb deeply, giving a nice base coat. We then follow up with a stain pad or brush to apply a second coat right away. This will ensure nice, even coverage.
#4 Coating Techniques
There are several techniques for applying stain, including the wet-on-wet technique and the wiping technique. With the wet-on-wet technique, you apply a second coat of stain before the first dries, allowing the stain to penetrate deeply into the wood boards. This is generally a better fit for dry, thirsty wood. The wiping technique involves using a rag to wipe away excess stain for a lighter application.
Regardless of the technique used, always follow the instructions on the stain label and wear proper personal protection. When you’re done applying the stain, use mineral spirits or soapy water to clean up all of your equipment and tools after staining.
5. Maintaining Rough-Sawn Lumber
Like any type of wood, stained, rough-sawn lumber requires regular maintenance to look its best. To avoid build-up and remove dirt and debris, clean the wood regularly.
Sweep the boards or use a stiff-bristled brush for tighter areas, and consider a deeper clean quarterly, if not every spring and fall. Finally, pay attention to the wood and reapply stain and sealant as necessary, especially in high-traffic areas or spots that receive direct sunlight. This will help protect the wood while maintaining the boards’ desired appearance.
6. Rough Sawn Wood Stain Colors
Questions on Staining Rough Sawn Wood? Ask Me Below!
What kind of brush would you recommend when cleaning rough sawn cedar exterior pillars? I just ordered some restore a deck cleaner and brightener and do not want to risk damaging the pillars by using the wrong type of brush. Thanks!
Hello,
Much easier and more efficient to lightly pressure wash then scrub.
If you scrub, use this. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-staining-brush/
Thank you! So power washing is okay with rough sawn cedar? I’ve attached some photos. Some sections are in pretty rough shape so I don’t want to damage them.
Yes. You use it as a rinsing tool after applying the cleaner. Wash about 8-12 inches away from the wood with the fan tip.
Thank you for your publication! We just put up a simple 2 car garage and sided it with rough cut hemlock. In upstate NY buildings left to weather naturally turn blackish, more so as it gets closer to the ground. I’d really appreciate a suggestion that with some maintenance will preserve the natural color and prevent the blackening. Thank you
Look at the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
or Armstrong Clark:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/armstrong-clark-wood-deck-stain-review/
Staining cypress for mantel. What color stain is the 3rd one
Not 100% sure, but it could be TWP 1503 Dark Oak or Armstrong Clark Natural Oak. You can get some sample test colors here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product-category/stain-samples/
Hello! This post was very helpful, thank you for sharing your tips. Would you happen to have any advice on our current staining situation? We used rough cut pine to make box beams and used minwax early American penetrating stain. We asked the painters to use conditioner in hopes it would prevent blotchiness. The seams and nail spots are very noticeable and the rough cut spots are darker than expected. Do you think sanding the stain off and reapplying without conditioner would help? The front door is “stain grade” and it is also extremely blotchy. We are thinking maybe moisture was the issue here. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry but we work with exterior wood such as decks, fences, wood homes, etc. Not interior stains or doors.
I’m building a deck and using fresh rough sawn Douglas fir for the posts. Do I need to apply a wood conditioner before staining?
No.
Hi there,
We have rough cut columns and rough cut wood on the ceiling of our porch…..I have used minwax natural penetrating oil stain on them but it just looks like such a flat finish….is there anything I can use to add some kind of sheen without it flaking off…..I pressure wash every year or so to keep the wood protected but I want a little sheen to it…. Is there something out there I can use without flaking? Thanks so much.
Minwax does not work for exterior wood, and you cannot add a shiny coating to exterior wood, as that leads to peeling.
What would you suggest using on them?
Any penetrating exterior wood stain. You will need to remove the minwax first.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
I have raw unfinished 70s wood paneling in my house. I want to stain to neutralize the orange tones. When I tried applying stain in a test area, the wood soaked up the stain really fast. Do you have any suggestions on how to apply this evenly and what stain to use for a neutralize the orange
Sorry, but we only work with exterior wood.
Would a plastic house hold spray bottle work to apply st ain on rough ceader ? Thank you
Probably not.
Hi, I’m trying to accomplish this look with rough sawn pine. Any suggestions would be appreciated
That is a “white wash” look. No exterior stain we know of will give you that look.
I forgot to say white oak!! Wood
heather
I live in western Pennsylvania. We renovating our front porch to include exposed rough cut white columns and header beam. The wood was dried and never stained before. I’m looking for a walnut color semi transparent stain. Any recommendations
thank you
Look at the Restore A Deck Stains in Dark Walnut or Light Walnut. Another option would be the Armstrong Clark Stains.
Hi there!
So glad I came across your page. I had a question about some wood accent walls we did in our house a few years back. We ended up going with this because it was cost effective. I want to know if it’s possible to stain this wood or use a wood conditioner to alter the color to more of a cooler undertone ? It looks different in natural lighting . Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks .
Sorry, our products and advice are for the exterior only. We do not know of anything that will work for this interior wall.
Hello Scott,
I live in a mid-century modern style home that had a sunroom added to it many years ago. The sunroom is 13 ft x 18 ft.
The walls and ceiling are rough sawn cedar with a red tinted stain on the wood. The room is mostly sliding glass doors on 3.5 of the 4 walls and it has a big clear hard plastic bubble in the center of the ceiling.
Many years of sun have faded the stain unevenly over the years. It’s time for a refresh of the entire room but I don’t want to keep the RED stain.
I’d like to change the look and feel of the sunroom to a light to medium taupe color but still keeping the rough sawn look and feel of the wood along with the transparency of the stain.
How do I prep/clean the surfaces?
95% of the surfaces are vertical and it’s on a conventional foundation attached to our main house with a tile floor so I’d prefer not to use a power washer.
How do I get the stain results I want with the current state the surfaces are in?
The only way I know to prep this (correctly) is to pressure wash with a stripper and then brighten, which is not feasible in your scenario. Too much water and potential damage. You cannot sand rough-sawn and not sure if applying over the current stain will achieve proper adhesion and results. The latter may be your only option and hope it works. Maybe test spot? BTW, exterior semi-transparent wood stains do not come in taupe colors. You would need a custom mix, and it will become more of a solid stain.
One more question…
What is the best method to apply the stain to this room’s walls and ceiling?
Thank you for the response!
Exterior stain pads or brushes. Tarp well, as it will drip.
Hi! I built a fence last fall with new rough cut poplar wood. I am now ready to stain/seal after letting it dry over the past 6-8 months. I read your advice above but wonder what type of prep I need to do. Is my wood considered ‘new’ or ‘weathered’? I had planned to do either a semi-transparent stain or just a clear sealer. I have been looking at SW Super Deck product but concerned about all the comments about peeling. I plan to apply with an airless sprayer. What product do you recommend? Thanks!
Clean and brighten for prep. Use Restore A Deck Stain or Armstrong Clark stain.
Thank you for the quick response!
We purchased a 40yr old rough cedar sided home near Blue Ridge GA. Previous owner didn’t do anything in the 6 years they lived there other than apply clear sealer but they’re unsure what was used. It’s got some lighter spots and areas where nails can be seen but overall just needs a refresh. No mildew visible, only dirt and pollen. Do we pressure clean or soft wash? Then approximately how long until we can reseal? What products do you suggest? We prefer the transparent/semi look vs solid. We have paint sprayers, do you suggest we use them or to hand brush? Thank you for your guidance.
Post pics in the comments for prep help.
Thank you. Sorry, I thought I had.
You have a semi-transparent stain on the wood, not a clear one. If you do not know what was used prior, you will need to remove it and start over with a new brand of stain. Post a close-up of the wood so we can offer tips on how to remove it.
Thank you. The last owners said they applied a protective clear, that’s all we know, but we don’t know what kind or brand. These are 2 different sides of the house, before and after pressure washing.
It’s still rough, so apparently it hasn’t been sanded previously and we like that. We’d like to protect it and keep with the transparent stained look. Any help/steps are appreciated.
Use the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper with Booster and the Gel additives. Apply, wait about 20 minutes, and pressure wash off. Do it in sections and repeat until done. Brighten all after. As for the stain, use one of these brands:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Thank you, we appreciate your expert advice. Sounds perfect for our job.
Just curious, how is it obvious that there’s no clear on it currently? It looks shiny in some areas, like the back wall under the rear covered porch that doesn’t get direct sunlight. The prior owner is a widow and unsure what her husband used but thought it was a clear coat. Thank you for educating us for this job and future maintenance.
It is clearly a tinted (brownish cedar color) stain, and you cannot apply a clear coat over a wood stain, it would peel.
Thank you.
And can we use an airless to apply the stain?
Most brands, yes.
Ok thanks.
I am making shutters out of rough sawn cedar and I am apply tung oil to them. Is there any particular application and do I need to add a protective coating to maintain the color? Also, what kind of future maintenance is required. I live in Michigan and they will be going through harsh winters.
Tung oil is useless. It offers no UV protection and attracts mildew and mold. You need to remove it if you appled it and use a proper wood stain as you cannot apply a stain over top of it.
See here.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Just finished building an outdoor shed using rough cut pine that was cut and milled on our property. Would like to preserve the rustic new wood look, but not sure what kind of stain to use. Natural probably, but water or oil based?. Something mildew resistant is a must. It is very woodsy and damp here in the Adirondack Mountains of New York with long winters.
Use Restore-A-Deck Semi-transparent stain in Natural color. It will work better for mildew and mold prevention.
I have cedar ceiling and some walls on all of the interior of home. Some old with an oil stain from 45 years. Now some new replaced from damage/storm. Also have some water marks need cleaning, wish to keep the ruff look. What do you recommend to stain over this ruff cedar?
Sorry Jacky, but we work with exterior coatings, not interior. Not sure what would be best for you here.
any idea how can you remove paint from stained raw cedar? thanks
Typically you sand off paint or you can try this.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel-review/
Hello Scott, I have rough sawn pine boards that i will be installing over drywall in the living area of my carriage house. Any suggestions on how, and what to treat the boards with?
Try Restore-A-Deck in a semi-transparent color.
I am staining a rough sawn pine fireplace mantel. Any suggestions on stain…oil or water based? After rolling or brushing on the stain, do I try to rub it off with a rag? Any other tips? Thank you.
Application is based on the brand you go with so just follow their directions once picked out. As for oil ot water-based, it does not matter.
What stain did you use to get the “dark oak on rough cut lumber” picture above? Thanks!
It was TWP in 100 or 1500 Series.
Thanks!
I’m using two oil based stains (Chestnut then Gray) to stain rough sawn pine board and would like to apply a sealer. The board will be used as exterior trim. Any recommendations on the type of sealer that can be used. I’m hesitant to use tung oil due to the drying time and number of coats. I’d like to complete this before temps in NJ drop below freezing, a few weeks at best. Considered water based spar urethane but I’m concerned about the effectiveness of sanding rough sawn wood between coats. Thanks!
You cannot apply a sealer over an exterior wood or deck stain. It will peel if you do.
Scott, thanks for the reply. Are you aware of any finish I can apply to oil based stained pine boards that are being used as exterior trim. I’m using Varathane oil based penetrating wood stain. I’m trying to improve their water resistance and longevity. Thanks
You are using the wrong type of stain. You cannot use interior stain for exterior wood. What you are using will not provide any UV resistance from graying and water repellency. It will also attract mildew.
I have a piece of pine that is at least 50 years old, never used. Dried in a barn attic with some sun bleach areas that I don’t care for but I love the rough saw marks on it and want to use it for a fireplace mantle. How can I stain it if it’s rough? Wiping off stain on a rough surface and should I condition it first?
Not hard, just stain it. No need to condition.
I want to protective my new-last-Fall rough-cut cedar raised planter beds and fencing with clear stain. I’ve heard conflicting statements about whether the wood needs sanding before staining. Your opinion?
Do not sand. Clean and brighten for prep.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
You must have a tint if you want UV protection from graying:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/will-a-clear-sealer-prevent-graying-on-deck/
We have the typical red cabin with green roof and trim. Even the Anderson window trim is green. I’m tired of this look.
can the red be stained a different color without sanding the entire cabin? It is rough sawed siding with knots.
We would need to see some pics to answer this properly.
I have a tall cathedral ceiling that is covered in rough cedar and over the years I just got sick of the orange look and I want to have it painted. Can this be spray painted by a professional?
Yes, but do not use a paint. Use a solid color deck stain. See here for the best options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Wilson
Hi! I want to install natural wood, put stain and two coats of oil-based in my house.
My question is! Can I do it for interior floors or not?
Thanks.
Hi, we only work with exterior stains and coatings. Interior is much different.
Hi I’ve built a barn out of old hand hune beams, I would like to stain my new rough sawn pine boards with a grey stain that has the look of weathered grey , having a hard time finding a product that has the right tone , question I I stain with a light grey ,either oil or preferably water based will the pine weather or darken with time? I t+ g all the boards so would like to stain them before installing
Thanks Dave
No, they should not darken over time. Try the TWP semi-solid for more color options:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-semi-solid-pro-series
How do you suggest removing water stains on interior cedar tongue and groove ceiling boards? my roof leaked and now I have water marks. I would prefer to keep the would its natural cedar color vs staining it to cover up the water marks. Any suggestions? I realize you have been discussing decks, but thought I would ask.
Thank you.
You can try a wood brightener but in many cases, the water stains are throughout the entire board. This means it cannot be removed fully.
Help! We stained are rough cut pine beams with SW oil based semi transparent in 2017 with the color Yankee Barn. We like the red color then but want a more dark walnut or espresso look to it and get rid of the red color. We have over 3,000 sq of decking around the whole house and really dont want to have to sand but don’t like the look of solid stain either. Can we use a darker oil based stain in maybe a semi solid? SW only had water based semi solid, would that matter? Please help!
Whenever you switch brands or bases of semi-transparent stains, you need to remove the old coating first. You will need to strip and brighten for prep. Try the Restore a Deck Stripper/Brightener kit with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Once prepped, use any top stain brand that you like: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Wanting to stain bandsawn pine beams Have tested a few water based stains but it’s coming out way to dark and looks like paint. Wanting a light color of grayish brown. Any ideas?
You want a semi-transparent stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Try Armstrong Clark or TWP stains.
Is it acceptable to sand rough sawn barn board just a little to get rid of the loose fibers which give a rougher look than I would like and make it difficult to brush on stain. I will be installing Board and Batten to my whole house.
Hand sanding lightly to remove splinters and loose fibers is okay.
Hi,
I am having a shed built and am looking for the proper stain product for the door. The door is made from T1-11 and is rough plywood. I need a deep, rich chocolate brown color. I live in Colorado at 7300 feet so need it to protect from sun, wind and snow. I have looked at all kinds of products and just can’t make a decision because there seems to be no consensus. TWP got good reviews I think, but you can’t buy it in a store and I don’t want to take a chance buying it online. Cabot, Penofin, Messmers, Ready Seal are all products I’ve come across. I can’t get the workers in the stores to be of real help either. They don’t seem to really know. I bought Old Masters from a paint store because the guy said it was great for my needs. Got home and read the label….it’s a interior stain. Ugh!! I appreciate any help!
The best options would be the TWP 1500 series in Dark Oak or Armstrong Clark in Espresso. We would not use any of the other brands you suggested.
Says best to stain rough lumber (cypress & pine) 60-80°. It won’t be that for couple months. What temp can I do it and still get good results?
That would vary based on the brand of stain you are using and what they suggest for temp range. They are not all the same.
Hi Scott- what a great resource!
I am planning to rebuild a mantle area in home in Colorado and lust looking at my DIY options. I found some pretty affordable true 2″ by 12″ rough sawn cedar beams but they are sort of dirty and I am not sure if I can get them into good shape… from reading other responses here, I’m thinking I could pressure wash them and then use the restore A deck products to clean and brighten them up?
Yes, that would work fine. Post some pics when installed.
I have rough sawn pine mantle and fireplace sides. We put Minwax semi-transparent oil based stain on. It’s been 4 days and there are still spots that look damp/tacky. We had fans on it trying to get it to dry, but still the same issue. Is there any way to speed up the process?
Sorry but no idea. We only work with exterior stains. Minwax is interior use only.
building a rough-cut hardwood log beam cabin, (ash & oak) looking for a stain and preservative product.
Try TWP Stains or Restore A Deck Stains.
spoke with TWP tech support, they said to age the cabin 4 months before applying, seems like a long time with no protection. How does woodrich timber oil compare to TWP
3-4 months is normal for all new wood to weather and then be prepped if the wood is smooth. Rough sawn cut can be stained right away if clean and dry.
TWP and new wood: https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I just had a 4 season room installed on the. Ack of my house. They wrapped the beam with rough sawn cedar. Do I need to seal it or can I just leave it? Being it won’t be in weather will it turn gray or black over time?
Can you upload a picture of it?
We bought a house with cedar siding on parts of the exterior… we don’t know what kind of stain, seal or conditioner has been applied. We just finished using a cleaner and pressure washing it, which removed a lot of dirt. It looks dry and old still, what can we do to freshen it up and give it a healthier look?
Post some pics.
My house has rough sawn cedar siding and the stain has gone in the sunny spots, can you help me find the right process and product to restore it where it is sun damaged?
Strip and brighten all with Restore A Deck Products. Stain with TWP Stains or Restore A Deck Stains.
Help! Part of our home is rough sawn cedar which was painted with a semi transparent acrylic stain by previous owner (our best guess – we do not have the can). A contractor power washed it to remove the stain with limited success. About 50% of the stain is gone; some of the remaining stain is peeling in thin ribbons. My husband says if you sand the rough sawn cedar it will destroy its character. However, he would like to coat this with a semi transparent Oil base stain for easier maintenance going forward. Everything we’ve read said you have to completely remove the old stain first. How can we successfully remove the old stain before coating the rough sawn cedar with a semi transparent oil base stain?
Post pictures.
Here’s a photo
Try the RAD Striper with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Apply stripper and wet for an hour making sure it does not dry out by misting if needed. Pressure wash off. Repeat if needed. Brighten all when done.
Great advice! The RAD stripper works well. However, after stripping the railings around the deck, we realize this is a labor-intensive, expensive job. But we have roughly 500 ft.² of the cedar siding to go. Can I lightly sand the loose stain and apply a solid, water-based stain over this to avoid stripping it all?
Yes: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hello! I’ve built a western red cedar deck, I live in the northwest were it is very rainy but decks also suffer from a lot of UV. I’m really struggling to decide on the best coating to keep my cedar looking like natural cedar but still protecting it 🙁 I would love for it to look just like wet cedar. I’m happy to pressure wash and reapply something every year if that’s what will give me the desired result. Any recommendations?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
As for color, let us know which stain brand you are leaning towards and we can offer help with a color similar to a wet look.
Hello,
We are building a rough cedar pergola above the garage. I’d like a sunbleached or white. What stain would you recommend?
Thanks.
You would need a solid stain like this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
or a semi-solid stain like this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/twp-semi-solid-pro-series-wood-and-deck-stain-review/
Hello – My son used a water-based stain on a rough sawn lightly planed old oak wood mantle. The water-based stain raised the grain quite a bit more than desired or expected. We don’t want a glossy finish but also feel like the grain is raised too much and will trap dust and a cleaning cloth will snag, stick, or leave lint on the surface. I was thinking of burnishing the wood with hard maple or using a scraper plane on a very fine setting and then reapplying the stain. Or perhaps to use more stain as a lubricant while I apply stain using denim with medium-hard pressure and/or rubbing with hardwood to flatten some of the elevated wood fibers. I fear if I burnish the surface stain will not penetrate evenly or well and if I plane it the newly cut wood will not color as well as the recesses. I do want to preserve most of the saw marks but don’t like the rough feel of the elevated grain after using the water-based stain. Once I get the highest rough elevated grain down and re-stained for even color, I thought I would just use 100% natural tung oil thinned with orange oil. It will be exposed to some heat from the gas fireplace so leaving it natural and unfinished concerns me. Advice?
Sorry, but we have no idea about this. We work with exterior wood stains and they cannot be top coated or burnished.
Hey, our home is sided with rough sawn cedar. We got hail last year and it left divets in the Siding. My insurance company wants to sand the rough sawn siding down and re-stain. I am saying that changes the appearance and effect of the siding as it won’t absorb stain the same as the undamaged sides and make the appearance different. Do you have an opinion on that? They obviously don’t believe me as the homeowner.
You are right and you cannot spot redo, you would have to redo all sides so it stains evenly.
Thanks, would you also agree that your rough sawn siding would now be smooth cedar Siding? The appearance would be different than rough sawn?
Yes, it really should be replaced to have the same look.
We purchased rough sawn pine boards from our local saw mill to make faux beams for the interior of our home. The pine is a Florida pine. We have played around with stains, even mixing them, but the boards absorb and they become way too dark or going light they look Orange. Is there a way we can get a medium brown tone?
Try a stain that is medium to dark brown.
Will do. Thank you
Our contractor installed rough sawn north white pine barn panels on our opened covered deck. We are on the water so it will be exposed to salt water spray. What should I use to seal and protect the natural color? Thanks!
Try TWP Stains or Restore a Deck Stains.
I bought rough Cyprus 8in post with deep black saw marks for my front porch. Tried sanding but no end. Is there anything I can do to hide or may these post look nice.. thought I was getting a deal.. please help.
There is no way to get the black “burn” saw blade marks out besides sanding.
If I’m using rough sawn wood on my dock should I put a wood preservative before I stain
No need.
I’m curious to what color stain was used in the attached picture from your website?
We have had such a hard time finding a stain color we like. Everything we think we like ends up being too dark.
We will be staining our 10×10 rough sawn post along with our knotty alder doors and shutters.
All and any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Looks like a basic cedartone color on rough sawn cedar. Colors will vary from wood species so it may not look the same on your wood.
I have a Pergola that has been stained with a Semi transparent stain and this past year it did Need it again so we lightly sanded it and restained it as shade darker . Over this past winter it seems to have darkened so much . I really want to lighten this up a little.i wish I had used a transparent oil stain . What do you recommend ?
I am also building a deck with rough cypress post . What type stain do you recommend ? My issue with this pergola has scared me from the semi transparent because it started lookin solid . Can u give me some advice?
You will need to remove it fully to lighten it up and start over with bare wood. Post some pictures for help with removing.
You need a proper semi-transparent penetrating stain that does not mask the wood like the cheap versions from Home Depot or Lowes. Look at TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark.
We have a rough sawn red cedar that’s original to the house. It’s downstairs in our bi level house that was built about 45 years ago. It makes the room dark and we’re trying to figure out how to lighten the room. Is it possible to stain it a lighter color?
No, you would have to paint it if you wanted it lighter in color.
We just installed cypress post on the front of our house. Before we could stain them they started mildewing. Do I need to do something before I stain?
You should weather, prep, and then stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
How about using same product (TWP dark oak) on an entry door? FIR species.
Would it need to be too coated with a polyurethane or some other product?
TWP should not be used for entry doors and you cannot top coat it with a poly or any other sealer.
What brand again is shown as dark oak ? 3rd from top
TWP Stains.
Hello, we have a very slow siding replacement project that uses rough cut cedar boards for window and door trim, as well as for porch posts and trim. The 20 year old cedar siding that we just tore off was stained black and badly sun damaged from the Oklahoma heat. Our new cedar wood trim is now a variety of ages (1-8 months), colors, and textures because the work has been so slow.
I can’t figure out what stain to apply. The painter plans to pressure wash the older, grayed boards then stain but stain newer boards with no prep. Painter likes oil based stains but is willing to apply water based. My main consideration is longevity, because I can’t reach the second floor windows myself and I don’t want to hire someone to maintain the trim more often than necessary. We would like to maintain a rustic, lighter/natural toned cedar look if possible. Thanks for any help!
Try TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains.
We bought a home that has rough cedar front porch (beams and handrails). The original stain is reddish brown and worn, can we re-stain over the existing with a
solid white stain?
Give it a good pressure wash first to remove and loose or peeling stain then you can cover it.
Hi. I have rough cut cedar that I’m going to use for a mantle. I want it to look aged like dark barnwood. Any advice on stain or pre stain. Thanks
No, you cannot age the look of wood with exterior wood stains.
I am replacing several rotten cedar vertical boards on my deck railing with new cedar wood that is rough sawn on one side but is smoother on the other side. Is this board considered rough sawn that can be stained right away or do I need to wait before staining. I plan on staining with TWP Semi-Solid Pro-Series Stain.
Depends on what side you are staining?
I am staining both sides of the deck railing.
If one side is smooth then you have to wait 3+ months and prep.
What product do you recommend for staining roughsawn cedar (exterior)? I want to seal the inside of my flower box.
Try Restore A Deck Stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
I have dark rough exterior beams that are in need of restaining. Do I have to sand the old stain off to redcoat them to make the color uniform?
Strip and brighten for prep is the correct way. Use the Restore A Deck Kits.
Help, please! I need to stain our rough-cut pine studio/shed, but need to clean it first. It’s brand new (well, it was back in December last year), not been treated in any way yet, I kept waiting for better weather, plus we’ve been working on finishing it inside first, but I don’t want to leave it for winter. The bottom on two sides is majorly discolored from all the mud that the thunderstorms splashed onto it, so I need to clean that up before staining. I read that water-based stains are better than oil for a number of reasons. I’ll gladly take any advice on how to tackle this project.
Thanks.
Clean and brighten all wood with Restore A Deck Prep products. Stain with the Restore A Deck Semi-transparent stain. It will look great!
Thanks.
Help! We have beautiful timber work on the exterior of our new home. We wanted to keep the beams natural — rough sawn cedar — and just do a clear coat as a sealer. However, the painter used a product with parafin in it and the beams are now a red color and much darker. It’s terrible and doesn’t go with our house at all! How can we get back to the natural cedar color? I need a solution, please!
Post pictures and what brand of stain did they use? BTW, a clear will give zero UV protection from graying. It must be tinted for UV protection or wood will gray in months.
I have PA Amish scheduled to install rough cut Hemlock for interior wall (currently walls are OSB ) inside a heated pole barn. Hemlock will be “green” – would it be possible to stain Hemlock boards prior to installation? Thanks!
If rough sawn, then yes.
We have fresh rough cedar cut from the mill. This wood is for fencing and on our deck. We told the paint store and they sold us exterior paint varnish which takes forever to dry. I feel like we were sold the wrong product. We have a ton of lumber to stain. Would we be better off to use oil stain or this varnish for the protection?
Never use a varnish on exterior wood, it peels and blisters. Use a penetrating stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Hi I just done my house in bat and board pine the wood is dry I cut the trees and boards 1 1/2 years ago what would you recommend me to use to stain and what’s the best stain
Try the Restore A Deck Semi-transparent stain or the Armstrong Clark Stains.
Hey, I have a question! We have rough beams in a vaulted ceiling of the great room in our house. They are painted white. We’d love to stain them a dark walnut color to match the fireplace. Everyone tells me this “will be a lot of work” because the white painted beams need to be sanded down first. Is there an easier way? Is there a faux stain – paint that we could put on top of the white painted beams?
No other way besides power sanding and that will be hard and messy.
Ok any product you like most for painting over white beams to give it a more natural walnut type finish? I keep seeing gel stains…
Sorry but no idea.
We have a cabin in northern Michigan that was sided with rough-sawn live edge spruce about 15 years ago. While it has slowly turned several shades of gray, I’d like to stain it a semi-transparent or semi-solid tan color. Would this even be possible considering 15 years of weathering, and if so, would we have to powerwash it first? What other intermediate steps would we need to do? What brand of stain would work best?
Yes, it is possible. Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener kit while pressure washing and then the TWP Semi-Solid stain. It will look great! Post some pictures when done!
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/twp-semi-solid-pro-series-wood-and-deck-stain-review/
I have installed 3/4 inch by 7 1/4 inch wide rough sawn pine. It was freshly milled from an Amish mill. It will be in direct sun for half the day. How long do I wait for it to dry before using oil based stain.
You can stain rough sawn wood right away as long as it is clean.
Hello – I just had a new rough sawn cedar fence, arbor, and deck railings put up a couple months ago. They are all completely untreated with anything so far. I want to maintain the original color of the cedar and protect the wood from UV, mold, and other problems. Am I correct in assuming that oil based products will protect better? Since I want the color to be as close to it is now (new, natural) or maybe slightly darker, what product would you recommend using on these areas? Thanks!
Oil or water-based is fine as long as it is a high-quality stain. Not possible to maintain current color, has to be a stain for UV protection. Try Restore A Deck Stain in Natural or TWP in Honeytone. Both are light tinted.
Thanks, appreciate the info!
I recently had a fence built with rough sawn redwood. I want to maintain the natural look. I live in southern California where it’s warm and dry most of the year. I have read that untreated redwood will eventually change color. What product do you recommend to keep the natural color but will also work with rough sawn redwood?
You must have a tinted stain for UV protection from graying. Try Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Stains.
I’ll look into it. Thank you!
After staining our pergola in white stain a few days later we see brown little circles coming through the white stain. What causes this? And what do I do?
That is tannin bleed. Cannot be prevented but you can add another coat after it dries out.
Hello, we have these beams going up on our house first time working with Rough Timbers and would like to clean them up and stain them. They are located on our future new porch. i have attached a picture of the timbers and the possible end result
Try TWP Stains or Restore A Deck Stains. Both are excellent and will highlight the natural wood grain.
Is Cabot solid color stain good for rough sawn for siding?
No, Cabot stopped making quality stains when they sold the company and the new company changed all the formulas for the worse.
Hi, my house is cypress lap siding. At the time of purchase and installation (6 years ago) I was told I could ‘let it gray out naturally’….So I didn’t put anything on it. I love the color. However, have since learned that was a mistake as I am experiencing some (not a lot) of cupping, splitting and nail pops on the hot side of the house…East and south (west is somewhat protected). I know that I need to apply something to protect it. I am open to any product and/or procedure that is recommended to stop any further damage. Thanks.
You will have to clean off the oxidation/graying first. Then apply a clear sealer over the wood. It will gray naturally again. Use TWP 1500 Clear.
It’s my understanding that power washing can damage the wood?
Not if you use proper prep products so you can back off the pressure.
Okay. What proper prep products would you recommend?
Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener kits.
I’m going to use rough cut 6×6 red and white oak for my porch posts to support the porch roof. Do I need to let the posts dry before installing and staining? I am planning on staining my deck boards again after I have them cleaned the same color but it’s pressure treated wood.
If rough cut you can stain right away.
I am picking up Rough Cut Cypress cut last month – 6×8, 6×4, 10×10 beams and post for outdoor kitchen construction. Can I stain before construction or do they need to dry (how long). If ok to stain now what product do you recommend? Oil or water base?
Thanks
You can stain it now. Any of these top brands will work: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I have rough sawn ceiling being installed and would like a brown color such as the brown on the far left in the ad above how can I achieve this look ?
That is a Light Walnut color. It is brown with a hint of red. Might want to try some samples from Armstrong Clark Stains or Restore A Deck stains.
What is the best product to use on rough cut redwood fence boards? We are looking to stain them so that you can still see the wood grain, but want it to be a little on the darker/brown side. This is new wood – it’s pretty rough and a little fuzzy. Can we stain right over it as is, or do we need to sand and smooth first, or use some sort of prep product? Thank you in advance!
You can stain now if rough sawn cut, and it is clean and dry. Do not smooth it. For color, try Restore A Deck in Dark Walnut or TWP in Dark Oak.
Hi,
We have rough cut or rough sawn pine 6×6 post and 4×6 on our front porch that we build a few months ago. Right before winter (north Ga). We are now ready to stain. Weather is starting to stay 60-80 most days. My question is what stain brand should we look at. We were about to do a Valspar brand till I found this site and seen that rough cut wood needs to be done differently. We are also starting to get cracks . Any way of fixing those before or after stain? The last photo is the color id like to have.
Cracks are normal. No need to do anything with them. Try the TWP 100 Series or the Restore A Deck Wood stains.
Siding with rough cut hemlock, what brands of stain would you recommend
One of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
How do I maintain this natural look of cedar post for years to come
You will need a stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Hello, we have rough sawn posts inside our home that have never been stained and their maybe a year or two old and I’d like to stain them the same color as our cabinets, their in our kitchen, what brand of stain will work best for this? And any tips are appreciated as I have never done this before thank you.
We only work with exterior coatings, not interior. I suppose you could use the exterior coatings inside but you will have an odor that will linger for days until it dissipates.
We have rough sawn cedar posts on the north-side of our home. We like the natural color so the carpenter said we needed to seal it with a good quality polyurethane. We applied two coats of it and after a year it has developed black mildew under the poly. Can it be treated?
No, you will have to remove it. You should never use a poly on outside wood. It peels and has mildew issues as well.
What’s the best approach in removing it?
Power sand it all off.
We have large rough cut cedar beams on our home’s exterior. They were originally stained with Olympic chestnut brown (semi-transparent/semi-solid) Can you recommend a better stain that will match this? Thanks for your help.
You will need to remove the Olympic first when switching brands. After the prep, try Armstrong Clark Stains.
Hi! I am an interior designer working on a clients additon to her cottage. The cottage is clad in 8″ bevelled Cedar from approx. 20 years ago. They are putting an addtion on the cottage so new cedar will be added. My question is… the client does not like the “orange” colour of the cedar. Is there any way to change the colour other than using an opaque stain? She likes the cedar but just wants to tone down the colour. Also, the garage was built in the last few years but it was clad with 6″ pine boards. Both the old and new cedar on the cottage and the newer pine on the garage would have to match. Any suggestions??? Many Thanks for any and all help 🙂
You cannot tone done the color but you can remove all of the current stain and then go with a stain color that is more brown.
Hello, and thank you in advance.
I had my newish deck and arbor stained a few days ago by a local professional company and the arbor looks really bad to me. Can you tell me what you think they did wrong? The deck is all smooth cedar, but the arbor is rough cedar. Before they stained, they cleaned and sanded the entire deck, but not the arbor, at all. However, it appears to me maybe they didn’t use enough stain for the arbor. I provided the stain to the company and it was the Armstrong Clark, in which we mixed Natural Oak and Natural Tone.
The deck flooring looks pretty good, even though they didn’t properly stain the edges of boards, but I do notice a little stain comes off on my socks when I walk on it. It’s only been a few days though since they stained, but I hope that goes away soon. It’s not tacky though. Do you think I should have them go back and stain the edges of the boards? Is it important that they do so?
Please let me know what you think.
Thank you!
Add another coat to the arbor. No need to stain edges of the boards.
What would you recommend for cleaning then maintaining cedar posts? They get lots of sun. South facing with full sun from noon until the sun goes down.
Try the Restore A Deck Prep kits and thier semi-transparent stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
My house is rough sawn cypress board and batten. We used a oil stain on it 20 years ago and parts have greyed and other parts are the red color. Would we need to pressure wash the entire house and then stain? When we stain what would be a subtle red color that looks like a cedar red? Thanks in advance.
You would have to prep all the wood and remove the current stain. Post some pictures so we can help with how to do this.
What stain do you suggest for spraying new board and batten siding?
Rough sawn or smooth?
Hi, we are finishing our basement with rough cut pine on the walls and ceiling. We plan on spray staining. What do you suggest as far as what kind of stain to use.
Sorry, but we do not work with interior stains, only exterior.
I am using rough sawn 1×6 pine planks for a ceiling in my cabana. It will be sheltered from rain of course but is an a outdoor environment. I need advice on what stain will be very light colored and protect the wood. I plan to seal both sides and the ends to prevent shrinkage.
Try Natural Color in the Restore-A-Deck Semi-transparent stains or TWP in Honeytone.
I have scrubbed my roof ridge rough sawn timber to clear mildew, and have now left the wood looking lighter in parts, and would to bring it back to as it was before . Can you suggest what type of stain or nourishment I should use. I am in the process of adding ventilation which caused a condensation issue after I had the roof re slated.
Do you have pictures?
Hi
I have gifted hand made rough sawn cedar birdhouses to family and friends for Christmas. They are asking my opinion as to the best way to seal and protect them for outdoor use. Can you help???
Thank you,
Frank
Try one of these top stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I will be receiving my kilm dried roufgh cut pine siding in 32 degree winter. I plan to store it inside a heated shop then in small batches take out side apply stain by spraying then move back into heated shop to dry. Once stain dries start installation on to home. Will this be ok? I don’t have the luxury to wait for warm
You cannot apply it at 32, has to be 50 or higher.
I am using roufgh sawn pine bat and board. It has been kilm dried. I plan to use TWP 100 can I single coat back sides 2 coat exposed side?
Apply one coat to both sides.
I had a treehouse built for my daughter back in the Spring. The siding is rough sawn poplar and has started to gray so I have decided to clean and stain it and found your site while attempting to figure out how to best proceed. Would you recommend Restore-A-Deck to clean and prep the surface? Would any of your top rated stains work well for this project? Since the treehouse has weathered, should I consider a solid stain instead of a more transparent one, keeping in mind that I do want it to look as natural as possible but also fresh and not mildewed? Would I need to use a different type of stain for the deck and posts, which is made of pressure treated wood?
If you are willing to answer all of these questions, thank you so much in advance!
Yes, use the Restore A Deck products for prep. Do not use a solid stain. Use Restore A Deck Semi-Transparent Stain or TWP Stains.
We have just moved into a house that has a rough tongue and groove ceiling. It looks very orange and would love to change the color. Is there a gel stain or anything we can do to alter the orange-ish color?
No, you would have to remove it and then restain.
Cassie did you ever end up doing anything with your rough ceiling? I have a similar issue and wondering how to minimize the orange but still keep the wood look Thanks!
Which is more fire resistant for rough sawn cedar siding – water-based or oil-based exterior stain? We live in the California foothills and need to restain our 20-year-old house and deck.
Once the stain(s) is dry, the FR would be the same. No difference in base.