This post was updated on May 1, 2024
The Worst Deck Stains in 2026?
We here at DeckStainHelp.com are proud to be the internet’s number one reference for all things wood deck restoration-related. If you have had a negative experience with deck stains, you have come to the right place to warn people. We are always looking for ways to engage with our readers, so we appreciate your input and questions by leaving a comment below.
Deck Stain Failures
Have you had a bad experience with a decking stain?
Our most popular article, “What is the Best Deck Stain” has become the #1 article for consumers on the Internet for deck stain questions and answers. We have decided to create an article based on negative consumer feedback and experiences with decking stains.
We are looking for bad experiences with a particular brand of decking stain.
Please include:
1. Brand of Deck Stain
2. Type of Deck Stain (i.e. Solid, Semi-Transparent, Transparent, Semi-Solid)
3. Location and date applied
4. How long did it take for the stain to fail and how did it fail? (Peeling, Turned Black, Mold, Etc)
5. A brief description of your overall negative experience.
Note: This is mostly for fun and to allow you to vent your frustration!
HELP…I am in Alaska and have very few orisons, none of which I am impressed with after reading throughout this site.
I can get Cabot, Olympic, Thompson, etc…cannot find SuperDeck or TWP up here.
There is a sherman Williams store in Anchorage – you can get Superdeck there
Behr Transparent deck stain in Natural Sequoia #T-172 is awful! Worst stain ever. Applied in Colorado on a 500 sq. ft. deck and it is hideous. Super orange like a pumpkin! Ironically they don't sell a water based stain remover at home depot and I had to search to find one online. Don't buy this brand and especially don't buy this color!
I really love the color and the way it wears.
In the Spring we replaced a 30 yr old deck. It receives full sun so we wanted to protect it! We had previously used Thompson's Water Sealer so we went back to it. I would NOT recommend it using it EVER! The "old" formula has been changed. It looks like it's water down milk. It said to apply a thin coat, which we did. In some places it was still tacky after 4 or 5 days. After a month and having summer showers I noticed that places were not resisting the water. I emailed them and after about 2 wks or going back and forth with them and getting no where, their Rep said that they have a money back guarantee and would refund my money. Now mind you, I had been asking for 2 wks what we could do to get this NEW deck sealed. Never got an answer! I even asked if they had a different product…never got an answer! Our once beautiful (approx 30 x 40 deck) looks washed out, like it's been bleached! I have been searching the internet trying to find a product that will last more than 1 year. None of them are cheap! I don't want to strip the deck every year and reapply! What happened to the products lasting 5 years? Totally disgusted! The Lowe's Rep recommended that we use Olympic Wood preservative but I'm seeing some horrible pictures about it's results! A contractor said to use Valspar Wood preservative and that it can be tinted. What a disgusting mess! What have you used in the last 2 years that's still looking good?
I use Australian Timber Oil on my deck (standard wood) (not much sun). It never peels and I redo every few years. 3 years ago I pressure washed and changed from Cedar to Mahogany. I also use this on my mahogany floor of my roof deck. It is a mix of oils and just soaks in. Love it.
Thats because they are owned by Sherwin Williams now. They purposely buy companies and change their good products so they are junk to push their over priced crap they have in their stores. I'd use Ben Moore. I was a painter for 25 years. They have great products and they are a good value for the price. Strip the deck and start fresh with a new product. Sherwin Williams isn't about their customers anymore they are about their stock price.
I live in Illinois with its all over the map weather. I have an old deck that I am trying to keep limping along for a few more years if possible. I was considering the deck over type products but the reviews are not so good. I have stained it several times in the last few years with Thompsons Water Seal but every year it looks worse. Should I try one of the Deckover type products or stick with stain? If stain, water or oil based?
If you want a Deckover type product, than look at Deck Revive by Gulf Synthetics. If stain, use a semi-transparent penetrating stain like the Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500. Make sure to prep first.
Behr Semi-Transparent Deck Stain Natural
Brushed 2 coats on new cedar
Applied approx. 2012
Began peeling within 6 months
Yes Behr is the worst I have ever used.
Utter trash, ruined my deck.
Do NOT, I repeat, do NOT use Behr stains. The very worst is their deck over!!! It will absolutely ruin your deck. I like Australian Timber Oil, Armstrong Clark, and Flood Pro. I’ve had some success with SuperDeck, but have also heard of others experiencing problems. I own a painting/staining company so we’ve used many different products. We’ve never used Behr Deckover, but have dozens – even hundreds – of potential clients with failed Behr decks.
I can testify to how horrible Behr’s Deckover product performs. Had to replace the horizontal surface of my deck because it was cheaper than stripping it off and reapplying. The stuff is just crap. I also believe it is under a Class Action lawsuit in Illinois.
I am in coastal northern CA. Last year I sanded my 30 yr. old redwood deck down to the wood. I used Arborcoat semi transparent but a few weeks later black tannin streaks appeared in the wood, so I re stained with Arbercoat solid. I was told at the store to use the clear topcoat to avoid" the dry chalky look and protect it from water". Now I am furious because the stain/topcoat already is peeling and I learn reading posts here that Arborcoat has to be completely sanded off (AGAIN?!?!) to get a good result with a better stain. It did look nice for about 6 months, but resanding is a huge job! So I cast my vote for the worst product I have ever used: Arborcoat.
I agree with what you said about Arborcoat semi transparent. I prepped per instructions, applied in correct conditions last summer. This spring half of my Cedar deck was peeled. So upsetting!! Should have gone with Trex. With formula changes due to emissions, even good oil based deck stains aren’t what they used to be. Now I have to sand all of it off, and reseal with… whaaat? I live in New England. If I had known about the omissions changes I would never have gone with real wood. The situation is sickening to me, costly too… not to mention the time.
1. New York City small outdoor patio, mostly shade
2. Pressure-treated pine, deck built 12 years ago and stained with an oil-based white stain
3. I would like to make the deck white again and considered Behr Deckover and Arborcoat until I read all the horrifying stories on this site
4. Considering that my deck has had minimal maintainance, the white stain still looks pretty good after being powerwashed, with the grain coming through nicely.
I don't mind losing the grain if I can find a decent product that gives me durable coverage in white that won't peel or blister so easily. I would have liked to dry Defy or TWP, but neither has products with a white tint. Can you recommend a suitable product? Many thanks!!!
Penetrating semi-transparents do not come in white. You will need a solid stain or a Deck Resurface type product. Look at Deck Revive by Gulf Synthetics.
I purchased Sikkens last year in an off-white called desert tan but can’t find it anymore. They had a nice semi in white if you can find it……
1. mountains of New Mexico
2. Full Sun
3. Pressure Treated Pine
4. No Mold
5. Flood did not cover good.
Strip and brighten to remove the flood. Stain with a semi-solid color for better UV protection. Use a penetrating oil based stain like the Armstrong Clark.
About 5 yrs ago I had the Rustoleum Restore stain put on deck after it dried from pressure washing. This stuff IS HORRIBLE!! WHAT A CROCK OF BULL!!! It only lasted one year and after the first snow had melted away it had peeled in many places. So many I've talk to in my area ( Northeast States) have also complained about same product!! Trying to be compensated for this is like pulling teeth!! My advice is to STAY AWAY FROM THIS GARBAGE and save yourself lots of money and aggrevation!!!
We had the same experience with Rustoleum Restore and by the next summer it ad mostly peeled off. This stuff was not cheap to buy and its best to stay away from it. I do not generally write reviews but i feel strong enough that I must warn people away from this product.
Here is the BS reply I got from a rep about my complaint of Restore:
So you are saying we are screwed and your reply indicates that Restore is not responsible for the quick deterioration of our deck. We are sensible consumers and wouldn't have wasted the hundreds of dollars spent to apply the product to damaged wood.
Thanks for your lack of consideration and time.
On Oct 13, 2015 4:06 PM, ROProductSupport <roproductsupport@rustoleum.com> wrote:
Susan-
Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support. We are sorry to hear about your experience with our Restore product.
The Restore 10x Deck and Concrete Coating is not a waterproofing product or a sealer. The aggregate in the coating, combined with the acrylic resin, makes it very permeable which would allow moisture to pass through the film. This means that while the wood will absorb the moisture, the Restore will also allow it release from the wood. The Restore will not cause a wood surface to rot; however, it will not be capable of stopping any rot that exists in the wood when the coating is applied. It also will not prevent rotting as related to structural abnormalities in the decking such as lack of drainage, poor airflow, etc.
You have many experiences with many types of products – what do you think of the reviews received by Behr semi trans and solid stains? Most of them are not that good.
I agree. It also held in water underneath it. It is a horrible product.
Has anyone used Storm System in the #2 finish. It is a simi transparent. From these reviews, maybe simi transparent isn't the way to go. This is for central Oklahoma. I want a stained look but not a paint look. For 20yr aged pressure treated play set and also new porch swing.
Use a semi-transaprent stain from TWP or Defy Extreme.
Just had Flood Semi-Transparent stain applied to my one year old deck. It is a complete mess! The stain was supposed to show the grain but yet provide good coverage. I did choose a darker color (cinder) but the pictures and brochures looked great. Test board looked great as well. However, when I checked on the deck after one day (stained by a professional), I am in disbelief. It looks like gray paint. No grain showing through and the "stain" continues to darken to a vivid bright gray – very unnatural. Now I am going to have to figure out how to fix the problem. My husband is literally ready to tear the deck down and build a new one. Truly a complete failure and great expense. Supposedly this is a Porter product which is disappointing since I have always used their products and loved them. AVOID THIS PRODUCT.
behr semi- transparent worst ever! failed after 2 days and we did all the posted cleaning and neutralizing according to directions.
Has anyone used UGL NuDeck? If so what are your comments.
I used it on my 24 year old deck last year in Michigan and it is still looking good.
How many coats did you apply? I heard even though they suggested 2… 1 thick is best ? ?
does anyone else have experience with UGL NUDECK ?
Used NuDeck last year on a job, first experience. Followed up this spring with the customer and the surface still looks good. Applied 2 normal coats, being sure to work the surface. It was a 30 year old deck.
Cabot semi transparent stain is the best that I have used. I live in California and they are no longer allowed to carry it. I've used it on my primary home and a vacation home in Baja. Both are in the desert. It's been about 5 years. I probably need to go over everything in the next year. I should start searching again.
It's probably too late to tell you this, but you could probably mail order that Cabot stain–it's still available in other states (like Michigan). It's nice to hear that it holds up in at least one environment. 'Seems it's not as good as it claims in cold weather environments.
You can be fined to ship a High VOC compliant stain from another state to a Low VOC state like California.
Ironically, this low VOC regulation is resulting in 10 times more stripping and staining?
I would use their Australian timber oil. Water based. Liked their solvent base, but like you in ca, not sold in Ohio any longer.
Cabot is the worst stain ever in Ohio. Holds up vertically and looks terrible horizontally. Ruined my deck ad my friends and he is a contractor.
I’ll bet the fact that your air is dry you have better adhesion and no peeling from underlying moisture
Good day I live just outside of Fredericton, NB Canada. I've have designed and built some very elaborate decks for years. Our environmental concerns went crazy here about 10 yrs ago, now we can'gett any true oil based product and the Flood CWF is just water based. Bottom line there is not a single readily available here in this part of Canada that will provide a suitable long lasting finish. So I don't apply the finish. I rather, suggest that my customers just wash their decks with a mixture of vinegar, bleach, water and perhaps a little borax. Scrub it on lightly on an overcast morning let it site a couple of minutes, now give it a good scrubbing and then either hose off or use a low pressure washer. Now having said that out Canadian Chain called Home Hardware is trying to promote their latest deck cleaner, Activox.
I purchased Wolman Durastain Solid Color stain and applied it to an front and back well-seasoned deck (I purposedly waited 2 years to ensure the treated wood was completely dry). I followed the instructions exactly, which was the ensure the surface is dry, free of artifacts, etc. The stain went on good and looked great, but after 1 year, started flaking in a couple of spots. Only the horizontal surfaces appeared to flake at first. The following year, 50% of the stain had flaked off. Kids were tracking it in the house, entire pieces were blowing off in the wind, the adhesion was HORRIBLE. The vertical surfaces have appeared to have held up so far about 98%, and we are in year 5 right now. Meanwhile, the horizontal surfaces are about 90% peeled off, our deck looks HORRIBLE. This year I am planning on sanding this garbage off and applying a linseed-based product. Also, I did try to contact Rustoleum (the makers of Wolman stains), with absolutely ZERO response. AVOID THIS PRODUCT.
I just emailed Rustoleum about durastain semi-transparent stain. Here's my deck after applying just last Aug (has looked bad since spring but really starting to peel now). https://goo.gl/photos/Z5toDX6egdwawCVC9
Says 6 years on the can. I have about 2 cans left and was planning on finishing frame and balusters, but not sure I want to put anymore on. I swear I read positive reviews before I bought. First and last time I'll ever use a water based stain.
Did you lightly sand all surfaces to remove the mill glaze first?
New ceder deck built in summer 2013, weathered to summer 2014, when I cleaned with a cleaner/brightner. Once dry I applied FLOOD CFW in its natural color (no added pigment). Now in summer 2015 some bits have peeled up. The thing is, the deck got almost NO use at all, so its only peeling in the very few areas that saw any foot traffic at all (steps and one end). Not having much confidence in the CFW to actually adhere to the wood.
I have only seen that happen when using a roller or spray instead of a brush.
cedar on the whole usually does not need a protector and is used for aesthetics. that said it does not take much dust and/or moisture under the stain so that it does not adhere properly
Use the Flood Pro purchased directly from PPG. The Flood CWF is definitely not the same product.
Behr Premium is the worst I've encountered. I've applied 2x last year, 2x this year. It looks like it's 5 years since application! Don't buy it.
We just had a wood deck installed. What is recommended time to wait before staining the deck and what is the best stain for hot, humid Louisiana weather?
Natalie, see here about new decks: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
After buying five tins and coating 40 square metres of decking, we find that Ronseal's definition of stain is not the same as 'normal' human beings.
The definition of stain in my mind and that of most I suspect, is that the colour impregnates the material, whatever that material maybe.
Ronseal decking stain doesn't. It merely lies as a topcoat, awaiting further application and therefore higher cost later.
Our decking is totally ruined and is peeling everywhere.
We were told either we used too much or too little. The complaints representatives at Ronseal need lessons in etiquette and manners, interrupting at every turn and using excuse after excuse for my supposed lack of correct application.
It's all rubbish. If you have a problem with Ronseal you are highly likely not be treated courteously or with any expectation of remedy.
This stain is not a stain in the true sense of the word. It is merely a top coat which will deteriorate in less than a year, leaving you with a horrible looking decking that is hard to repair. 'Nuff' said.
Same exact experience with CIL
I am looking to stain the house and garage made of pine wood it has already been stained before a reddish brown color and I am looking to cover it with something I don't have t redo very often. Has anyone used Woodsman acrylic deck siding and fence stain before? How is it? I am also looking at Sikkens Cetol but that seems to be too much maintenance as it says it only lasts up to 4 years.
You cannot apply a different brand of stain over the current and expect the new stain to properly perform. You should do it correctly by removing the old stain first so the wood is free of old coatings. Once removed you should use a semi-transparent penetrating stain. I would not suggest the Woodsman. Sikkens is better but still there are better products out there.
I have a garage that is rough board and batten on one wall and wood siding on the others. It was stained years ago a dark brown. I power washed it, then applied Benjamin Moore Arborcoat solid stain in a medium gray/blue for the doors and trim, and a lighter gray/blue for the rest of it. It covered in one coat! I used a regular paint brush. Even better, it has now been 4-5 years and it looks as good as new! Low or no VOC's, water clean-up, what more can you ask for!
I agree – Arborcoat (Barn Red, solid color) has held up well for me on vertical surfaces for 4 years so far, but not very well on window sills. I put it over 4" clapboard – some new pine and some old red cedar. I scraped hard to prep but didn't get off all the old paint? stain? I had to touch up a few spots the next year but not many. Given the limited durability on the window sills, I would not use it on a deck. I continue to like it for clapboard. I'm 25 miles north of Boston MA
I used Sikkens last year, a semi transparent in a very light beige. Looked great!! This year it still looks great but I noticed the areas with full sun and rain don’t bead water any more. The areas under the overhang not getting sun all day still beads water. I only had to use one gallon for a 20×24 deck! But I can’t find Sikkens in my area anymore
2 year old wood on deck railings- no stain. In Victoria BC. Full sun
Try Armstrong Clark Stains.
I used Armstrong Clark in Victoria BC on an 800 sq ft cedar deck and it was garbage. Surface was black with mold within 6 months. Mold would not wash off without stripping the stain. Given the glowing reviews the product gets on this site, I questioned whether the product might have been over-applied. After stripping the stain, tried again with exactly the same result. After many many hours we have not stripped the deck bare for a second year in a row and will be applying a different product – possibly Flood CWF. Not impressed with the AC.
Dan, I have been reading so many negative reviews about deck stains from numerous companies and finally decided on Armstrong and Clark since I have not found any negative reviews until yours. My cedar deck was just installed last month, and I was going to wait until October to stain it with a semi transparent by A & C. We live in London, Ontario. Deck is facing South West, so sun all day.
Now you gave me worried what I should use.
Please tell me which A & C stain you used. Did you use their prep kit first (Restore and Brightner)?
Thanks, I’ll wait for your response.
What is the best stain for Seattle? Our new, elevated cedar deck (1,300 sq ft) is exposed to rain and sun. Reviews are so mixed my head is spinning trying to decide on which to use. I know we need to reapply evey 2 years, but which one will actually hold up that long?
Please read this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Use the Armstrong Clark.
DONT BUY SADOLINE ITS LIKE DISHWATER AND DRIPS EVERY WHERE WHEN YOU PAINT IT ON ITS VERY VERY THIN ALSO ALMOST LIKE WATER
Looking to stain/seal my new cedar fence I live in north west new jersey. Im looking for something transparent or clear and that would give the wood a natural wet look as if it just rained. I never stained a fence but very handy. how long should i wait before staining? should i use a water based or oil based from what i read oil based is better. i read it could last onlyy 1 year the first application then 2-3 years after. looking for something that is easy to reapply but durable please help
Is the wood rough sawn or smooth? Most likely TWP 1500 Series would be your best option.
I am a painting contractor in Minnesota. The best clear/natural product I have used that lasts about. 5 years on vertical surfaces is Cabot's Timber Oil.
I just had new deck boards and steps replaced on my deck. Which is the best stain to use….SEMI-TRANSPARENT STAIN or
SOLID COLOR STAIN? Thanks!
Please read about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Has anyone used a milk-paint product for outdoor cedar deck? The milk paint was used years ago on old barns because it
held up so well and preserved the wood. I'm tired of dealing with upkeep every 2-3 years.
Sorry but never heard of this. Nothing lasts more then 2-3 years.
Location: Western IL near MO border
Product: Not sure, likely was original to 18 year old house but looks like it was a dark brown.
Prep: Powerwashed and sanded all boards. Included removing each spindle and sanding individually. All stain removed except what we could not get to between boards. Did replace a few boards. Wood is cedar.
We have spent two long weekends doing all the prep work above. I have nightmares about putting something on that will peel and look horrible by next summer. With six kids we don't have time for this kind of project every summer. What is best to apply to our deck? My husband would like a honey oak type color. I prefer something I can buy locally or across border in MO but am open to ordering online. What should maintenance from here on out look like?
Thanks in advance for your help! I've driven myself crazy trying to find best option.
Michelle
You want a penetrating oil based stain that does not film on top of the wood so much less chance of peeling. Look at the TWP stains or Armstrong Clark. Honeytone and natural tints.
I am a professional flooring contractor that also sands decks. Believe me I have tried them all and most deck stains that claim to last for years, well I say they all snake oil. I use Sikkens Cetol oe DEK. This product is not cheap but you get what you pay for.
Location: Pacific Northwest, Seattle – lots of sun and rain
Product: Benjamin Moore Semi Transparent Arborcoat in 50% cedar and 50% redwood mix with acrylic topcoat
Prep: Sanded, then cleaned with behr deck cleaner and mildew remover
Stain lasted maybe six months before fading. Within a year, it started peeling and now, two years later, I see mildew and lots of peeling. I would not recommend Arborcoat which is sold at True Value. Was told that Behr was excellent, but based on the reviews above, I will be avoiding that as well. I'm thinking of Flood as mentioned by one individual from Toronto above. Any recommends for Northwest stains is appreciated…
Makes sure to remove the Arborcoat before switching as other brands will not work on top of it. Best to use a penetrating oil based stain so it does not peel int eh future. Also one that works well to prevent mildew growth. Try TWP 100 Series.
Has anyone used acri sheild made by PPG (Glidden). Online reviews are good but wanted to know if anyone here has experience with their semi transparent oil based stain. Also considering Flood CWF but it only comes in 1 color Cedar (at Lowes)and it is a very orangey cedar.
Sorry but never used the PPG but anything with acrylic will film on top of the wood and will peel. I would not use it. The Flood if the oil based version is much better.
We used Flood on a covered front porch of new cedar boards and it looked good but didn't last 2 years. The outside areas of the porch that were more exposed to rain and sun lost almost all the finish after just a year . The area right in front of the front door, that was covered by a large rug, still looked good. My frustration is that when it's time to put a new coat on you have to strip the old finish off and because it is cedar we also had to do another step to brighten and remove tannins. This is crazy! This is like refinishing the floors of my living room every two years…..nobody wants to do that! So now I have a ready porch and a half gallon of leftover Flood but I don't think I will use it again. I'm not sure what to use!! Not too many products on this site getting thumbs up. Good luck.
when dealing with new cedar wood, no stain will last more than a year or two. We tell our customers to expect one season the first time staining new wood and then every two maybe 3 years after that.
My name is Michael with American painting and deck care, PPG stains are some of the finest. The semi opaque is the best finish they have. When it comes to semi transparent oil stains like deckscapes, twp and PPG. They will all perform basically the same if its a new pine deck.
I used the Flood solid hide 3 years ago and it is just now needing a touch up. Clean the deck good first. It fills cracks very well and lasts. I am having to shop to find it now. Lowes and Home Depot do not carry it anymore. Probably due to it working to well and not enough sales.
Flood and Cabot stain are the best oil stains out. Never had any problems with either brands. Sikkens and Storm stain semi trans peel like string cheese.
I purchased a home that had 2 decks about 25 years old in good condition. They had been "stained" numerous times with Cabot solid stain. The stain peeled off on about half of both of the decks. I called the Cabot company, and was told that the decks should have been "primed" before staining, and they had a product to do that. If you look on the can, it does recommend that you prime the deck first. I said that if you had to prime first, they should just call their product "paint".
My brother in law and I tried everything to remove the remaining stain on the large deck. We power washed, used a chemical stain remover, rented a diamond encrusted brush machine, and finally, sanded the entire deck. Some stain remained, and we used Zar paint remover to take it off. We restained with TWP 100 semi-transparent, oil-based stain, which was beautiful. I live in Northeast PA – and the deck still looks good after our horrendous last winter with snow on the deck the entire winter. The only comment I have is that some of the knots turned sort of white in color.
This summer I am doing the smaller deck. I went right to the Zar paint and varnish remover – first brushing it on, scraping the softened "stain" the brushing it on again and removing the residue with a scrub brush. It is working ok, but is slow going. I will the again stain this deck with the TWP product.
Is TWP Thompsons waterproof?
TWP and Thompsons are not related in any way.
I am ready to stain my deck and dock – they are at least 20 years old and I have always used Behr stain so I am wondering what would be the best product to use- I live on the lake by Charlotte, NC– I have been told superdeck is the best but would like some input on that
Superdeck turns black in our experience. Use the TWP 100 Series.
Can someone give me a recommendation for a water-based SOLID color stain? Right now I am leaning toward Behr – SOLID Weatherproof Russet color to use on home with oil-based Ready-Seal Pecan on the decks and porch. Live in North Georgia and plan to stain within the month.
Look at Flood\’s Solid stains.
I am located in Westchester County. N.Y. just north of NYC. I am in need of redoing my deck but I am unsure of what the painting contractor used? The deck is 4 years old and was stained with either Arborcoat Semi Solid Waterbased/Acrylic Natural Cedar product or Arborcoat Semi Solid Oil Finish Natural Cedar product. I haven't a clue on how to determine the difference between the two finishes? I f it's waterbased can it be stained with an oil based product and conversely if it's oil based can it be stained with a waterbased product. Finally, whichever it utimately is, I probably will want to be consistent with the finish and color and therefore seek your recommendation on the best alternative products to use. Thanks very much Tom Forde
You will most likely have to stay with Arbor Coat and I believe they are all water based. Other option is to remove it by sanding it all off and starting over. Might want to talk to your local BM store.
I just signed up with a painter recommended by Benjamin Moore Arborcoat and they want to use Arborcoat on the deck. As I read up on the product is see its not recommended in "cold states" Northern Idaho. Is there any guarantee I can hold over the head of the contractor or Benjamin Moore. It looks like their are few , if any stain that work very long in cold climates.
If it peels you are out of luck with the contractor and BM will just give you product replacement at most.
I would avoid Arborcoat. Initially, looks beautiful. But faded within 6 months and is now peeling badly. I live in the Northwest where it doesn't get extremely cold, but we get rain and sun.
Well I have read this entire site and still not sure what to do. Have PW but all paint doesn't come off. What is best product to remove deck paint? Then I assume you use a brightener. What is best you've found?. When I PW spindles on railing they came clear of mold,discoloration, and finish. I did try belt sanding top of railing (painted) with very little results.
You will need to sand it all off as strippers are mostly ineffective on solid stains.
Can you treat a deck with an acrylic version of the same brand after it's been treated for years with the same brand of oil deck stain? I've been using Woodsman's brand & they are discontinuing the oil based.
Not without removal first. You need to strip and brighten. Try to find an oil based stain like TWP or AC.
Benjamin Moore is the worst…I am 41 yrs a painting Cont. i live in Toronto canada. my first 20 yrs were commercial Ptg only and now 21 yrs in the residential Mkt. In residential, I always refused Decks as I always saw they were peeling.Painting a house or treating a Deck were obviously 2 different animals. 4yrs ago a Deck Bldr who knew of my interior work being on Cityline TV and in Style & Home Mag (both Toronto based) 4 yrs ago begged me to be his deck stainer. he was also aware that I had painted a home in advance of a benjamin Moore photo shoot for their "Exterior Colours Brochure". The first 2 were in 2000…the latter in 1996…it was on their brochure until 2002. I am a very high quality paining Co . perfect product and application is my mandate. When I ventured into staining decks…I was amazed at how many terrible products were out there for decks…I liked the look of Behr very much….but in the sun …it doesnt last.. In the shade (just like Sikkens….its great). My worst exp was with Benjamin Moore Arbourcoat…..guaranteed to peel within a yr in my opinion . I take great pride in my prep and product knowledge…but I just couldn't find a reliable deck stain….that wouldn't peel. Then I mentioned to a long term cust that I was thinking of trying Flood stain which I had researched only. He stated" I would never use that again because when I tried to strip it off with chemicals and I couldnt get it off" I asked "did it ever peel"? he said NO. I knew then, I had found a reliable stain. I laughed and told him that a stain that doesnt come off easily is actually the stain of your dreams. In time(a decade or so) any deck needs to be 100% sanded and start again. I researched Flood thoroughly as I had used their Penetrol(an oil paint conditioner that delays the drying time) for decades as an Interior Painter. then I found http://www.deckstainhelp.com . Their thorough testing validated that Flood is the best to use in Canada. Their" Best Deck Stain review" states two others are superior, but are not avail in canada. I am so impressed with Flood "semi transparent oil stain" and their CWF-UV5 oil stain…I GUARANTEE to my clients it will not peel for at least 2 yrs. it STAINS your deck …it doesnt sit on top like a paint. yet of course I use a moisture meter(max moisture should be no more than 15%) and I use a digital thermometer to determine wood temerature…it varies from corner to corner) These 2 specifics,used with a Flood stain will guarantee a perfect deck stain result….and no concern at all with the potential of peeling. Do a personal test.. draw a pen line on a Cedar board…apply Flood semi oil or CWF-UV5 Oil UP TO that line. Keep that sample board in the shade. You will see… Read more »
Hi Fergus,
we also live near Toronto, in Mississauga. after reading your review we have decided to buy Flood SWF-UV5, but locally we have found only water based SWF-UV5 sold in DurexPaint. It states that it is oil stain but when you go into specs it says that the solvent is water. I guess it's different from oil based and will penetrate worse, besides Flood SWF-UV5 oil based is named SWF-UV5 OIL. where are you buying oil base Flood?
Fergus,
Is the Flood a stain and sealant? Will this protect again water as well? We just looked at Flood this afternoon, but some were saying we need a separate sealer as well.
Thanks!
Yes it is a sealer and stain.
Oil based Sikkens is the only stain to go with unless you want to stain it every year or two.
Problem is that today…at least in canada…oil means a combination of small amnt of petroleum distillate oil( old school oil)…some linseed oil and soy and vegetable oils.
it's a play on terminology to beware and aware of.
To be labeled "oil" , such as the new Ben Moore "Classic Oil"….is an illusion in my experience.
It's never "real oil"
It's a simple test to determine if your product is "real oil" or a hybrid…Irregardless if cleanup requires mineral spirits
Apply your stain on a board then immediately begin dripping water on that area
A hybrid will separate from the surface
A real oil will never be affected by the water
In nature oil & water dont mix
In Canada the mfg are labeling cans oil
When they are really oil /latex hybrids
We have an older pine deck in Sequim Washington. considering TWP oil based due to mid summers and constant rain the rest of the year . Any advice on this or other product for our area .
Yes the TWP 100 Series would be best for this.
Russ,
How did you like the TWP oil base? I'm from Seattle and need to re-stain my deck and am wondering which product to buy. I used Arborcoat previously and it was terrible.
Did you hear back from Russ if he likes the TWP? We are trying to find a stain that works well on exposed cedar in Seattle.
The BEST deck stain I've found in the 27 years since building our house is SuperDeck semi-transparent oil based stain. I have a redwood deck, 1,500 sf, and have yet to find a better product. If you can't find it, Google it. Do NOT use water based stain on an exterior deck!!! The secret to maintaining an exterior wood deck is to: Keep it clean, and plan on having to stain it every 3 years. I live in SW Missouri, and, according to the stats, we have the "most diversity" in weather of any area in the United States, ie, snow, rain, ice, sleet, wind, heat, cold, tornadoes, etc…
Can you share your exact maintenance & staining procedure — (1) what do you use, (2) technique, and (3) how often/trigger.
Chicago suburbs 1500 sqft brand new deck let dry sanded boards before install to remove mill glaze. Sealed all sides except toltop surface. Installed alll boards. Sealed with Bm arbor coat peeled in months..
Stay away from arbor coat…
I have some exterior wood steps, redwood I think. Were painted. Stripped with chemicals and sanding down to bare wood. I understand I still need to clean & brighten to prep the wood. Unfortunately, the 'Restore-a-Deck" can't be shipped to crazy California. What should I use instead? Also, would you recommend for a stain. Steps get heavy traffic of course in the center. Would like a product that I don't have to strip every couple of years – just wash & restain. thx much. m
Mer, there should be no issue with the RAD Cleaner being shipped to CA. It is just stains that are limited there. Look at TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark.
Unfortunately, the distributors won't ship (they even state so in the website), so I assume that CA prohibits. It's the Gemini restore product.
Is the Defy Extreme (with the nano tech stuff) better or worse than TWP or Armstrong?
thx
m
This site is excellent. We had 3 Ipe decks installed in 2006. Maintained sporadically. Getting estimates for cleaning and staining and you information has been invaluable. Almost made some stupid decisions. One guy recommended Sikkens very highly and your customer reviews all state that it's garbage. We used Cabots Austrailian Timber Oil years ago but i've learned through your site that its been reformulated and is no longer recommended for Ipe. We're going for the Armstrong Clark and will maintain it yearly. I'll post again at hte end of the summer and again next spring. We live in northern NJ.
Lynda, with IPE you want a finish that will penetrate well, last a year, and can be easily cleaned and reapplied. That is why we like the Armstrong 🙂
I'm in Central Jeraey and considering power wash and staining of deck. How did Amstrong Clark work out!
I've just built a barn started back in March and hopefully will finish up with tongue and groove pine board. 80% complete at this point its not PT. have been told best stain to go with would be a oil based from sherman williams. any thoughts??? after reading some of the above i question that comment. any suggestions. we would like to go with a darker mahgoney type color. thanks in advance jay
Jay, I would use a oil based stain but look at the Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500.
Reno, NV
Rustoleum Restore
I used this last August on a large deck that is made up of two sections, one old section done years ago with solid stain and a new section with bare boards. I followed all directions including power washing and letting it dry completely for several days. It came out looking fantastic! However in November with the first rain / freeze, the old section started bubbling up in big patches. It's now March and most of this section has peeled up. Today I powerwashed the remaining bits off. The new section with the bare wood still looks great with NO bubbling / peeling.
I don't know if the problem was related to the original stain causing bad adhesion, but it looks that way.
Bought Behr deck stain at Home Depot. My parents built a new house. We let the new cedar deck sit for a couple of years. The deck was clean and I stained the entire deck. Didn't even last one year and was peeling everywhere. We called Home Depot and Behr company. They did replace the stain and they told us what treatment to use and instructions. I spent days pressure washing the old stain off the deck. I restained the whole deck. Same results it's now peeling within a year. This is a nice house, the deck is covered by the roof. I'm sitting on the computer looking as to why the stain keeps peeling off and I came across this site. Thought I would share. Now I spent one day trying to clean the old stain off, but it is not warn enough outside as to the recommendation of the stripper. So I will wait until next spring to begin fixing the complete mess and waste of my time. Some of large post where rough cedar which will nearly be impossible to strip. I will (never) use Behr stain again!
We are a deck cleaning company, and virtually 90% of our stripping business is taking Behr solid stain (nearly always red, for some reason) off of peoples' decks. It is by far the worst product on the market. Even worse, it leaves behind a residue that makes it not only difficult to remove, but it will act like a wax and resist other applications, causing subsequent applications of a new product to fail.
We have found that removal is a two-year process. The deck must be stripped, brightened and sealed with a toner, which will penetrate the left behind wax-like substance more easily than a semi-transparent. Next season, expect some patches where even the toner came up. No problem … the object was to get all the remaining wax-like particles out. They adhere to the toner, which can be easily powerwashed off. THEN … you are ready to apply a semi-transparent.
Putting a solid stain on a horizontal exterior surface is never a good idea, no matter what product you use. But Behr? WORST ON EARTH!
D Palmer, POW! POW! Powerwash'nSeal
Are there any comments regarding PPG Porter Semi Transparent Acri Shield? I've not been able to find any reviews anywhere.
Thanks
Casey, sorry but we have not reviewed it or used it on a customers deck.
Wolman Durastain Semi-Transparent lasted about 9 months before chipping and peeling. Stayed on for four years. Just used Wolman DuraBrite to clean the deck. Didn't know it would take the stain completely off in places. Wish it had stripped the entire deck! What stain can I now use? Part shade, part full sun. Please suggest a good brand for the hot, humid South.
Sharon, you must remove all of the stain now if you want to use a different brand. Once removed try TWP 1500.
Thanks for all of the comments. Should have read before installing a new deck. I installed 300 feet of ipe decking in July. Now deck is grey. Should I clean and stain now or should I wait until spring? I have also noticed that the wood has begun to show small cracks. I live in Kentucky with rather mild temps. The deck gets full sun in morning. If I wait until spring then I think I won't have to clean and stain but once.
Thanks Ellie
Ellie, I would wait until Spring.
Wait till Spring then use Defy products.
Hi Ellie
I have done many Ipe decks here in Canada
First application….very serious sanding to remove all wood "burrs"
It's important because within 10 mins of applying a "reasonable amnt" of Ipe oil. com….you need to wipe the excess oil off the boards …with clean rags
Then 10 mins later wipe the boards again as the cracks will "ooze out excessive oil"
Then 10 mins later wipe the excess away again
If you leave the oil oozed out of the cracks
They will dry to "shiny streaks"
I have just retreated a 3 yr old Ipe deck
For that newly treated fine furniture look
We Power washed with Flood deck brightener
Then sanded excessively with a 5" orbital sander
Then treated appropriately with Ipe Oil
It's looks like new furniture now
Ipe boards are no different than cedar
You have to remove the greyed wood fires first
Then sand….then stain
But I will recommend
Irregardless of all prep I have stated
If your Ipe is 3 yrs or older
You must apply 2 Cts over 2 days to see your Ipe look nice and dark as it originally did
Fact. …my direction is perfect. But don't neglect sanding
And of course dust off or Powerwash after sanding
EdC, knots almost always come out lighter (sometimes whitish) with all semi-transparent stains. Adding more does not usually fix this.