This post was updated on May 1, 2024
The Worst Deck Stains in 2024?
We here at DeckStainHelp.com are proud to be the internet’s number one reference for all things wood deck restoration-related. If you have had a negative experience with deck stains, you have come to the right place to warn people. We are always looking for ways to engage with our readers, so we appreciate your input and questions by leaving a comment below.
Deck Stain Failures
Have you had a bad experience with a decking stain?
Our most popular article, “What is the Best Deck Stain” has become the #1 article for consumers on the Internet for deck stain questions and answers. We have decided to create an article based on negative consumer feedback and experiences with decking stains.
We are looking for bad experiences with a particular brand of decking stain.
Please include:
1. Brand of Deck Stain
2. Type of Deck Stain (i.e. Solid, Semi-Transparent, Transparent, Semi-Solid)
3. Location and date applied
4. How long did it take for the stain to fail and how did it fail? (Peeling, Turned Black, Mold, Etc)
5. A brief description of your overall negative experience.
Note: This is mostly for fun and to allow you to vent your frustration!
Our deck 15 yrs. Old was last power washed and treated by a professional painter with a water based natural stain.
Just cleaned deck with Wolman DeckBrite and power washed it. Mildew came off but some stains remained, looks a bit spotty . So confused, if we should use water based or oil stain , we did buy Flood CWF-UV5 (penetrating wood finish)
Natural tone ( tintable) we tried it on a corner and it seems to look rather dark . We are in Ct.
HELP
Lissi
Behr semi-transparent redwood natural tone. Had the deck stripped completely, used deck brightener and sanded. I have never sanded a deck before, but I wanted to make sure the deck was properly prepped. Took 2 weeks to prep the deck. Made sure no rain was called for. Applied stain as directed. Noticed during the winter that sections of the handrail were peeling. By summer the deck itself began peeling. Had used Behr transparent before and was happy with results, but wanted something that would last longer. Supposed to last 6 – 8 years. Only lasted for 6 – 8 months. Worst product ever. Now we have to start all over again.
Sikkens Cetol SRD cedartone
Pine Log Home
3 years — brand new log home (waited one year to stain) — was properly washed and stained professionally.
Ohio
Sikkens is the worst! After 3 years, the stain has formed a very hard, varnish like finish on the surface, and the logs beneath the "stain" have grey, black, and green mold. To remove the stain, I am currently hand sanding (air tools rock!) the entire home (3500 sq feet of floor space, two stories, do the math on how much exterior surface that is to sand). Then applying HD80 and a neutralizer, drying, and switching to TWP product.
Sikkens has darkened at least 10 shades in 3 years. It is black in spots, green in spots, and dark brown "glossy" in spots. I don't know if this is the contractors application or not, but I can definitively say that a stain that seals the surface and films on top of the wood is not a good choice. No one on the planet wants to sand every 2-3 years. I am hopeful that TWP will provide a better look, better protection, and easier maintenance (no sanding!).
I used Behr Natural Cedar Tone #501 on the fence of my old house, and it held up really good… that was 5 years ago. I had about 4 gallons left in the 5 gallon container, so I kept it. I just recently used the remaining 4 gallons to stain my deck at my new house… it looks really nice (I just stained it this past weekend) Has this Behr stain always been awful stain, or is it just recently? Like I said, the stain is from 2008. Went on fine. Doesn't look like a pumpkin at all. I'd post a pic, but I don't see anywhere that I can… Anyhow, I used all 4 gallons on the first coat alone, and when I checked to see if they still had the same color, I read all these reviews on how horrible the stain is, how it's blotchy and peels, etc… and now I am a bit skeptical to run out and buy more of this stain for the second coat. Can I find a comparable color in a stain like TWP that is a much better quality for the second coat? I'm not terribly picky on the color… or is there a top-coating I can apply that will keep this stain on a little longer? The time involved to clean and prep is insane – I really don't want to do this again anytime soon… anyone have any suggestions?
Applied the new 5 gallons over the entire front porch and deck in the back and it looks great and was dry the next day. The front porch was still shiny and tacky 3 days after painting the first time. Now it all has a semi flat look too it, it dried the next day and no chalky residue. Apparently I just got a bad batch.
I don't understand how I over applied. I just rolled it in both directions and moved on. It's not like I came back an hour later and applied another coat. I did call Olympic again today and spoke with a much nicer rep and she said I can put another coat on the one I have now and gave me a voucher for 5 gallons free from Lowes. I plan to go ahead and put another coat over the front and back, stir every few minutes and see how it turns out. I get that it shouldn't be super glossy but it just has a satin type sheen to it. And how would the ENTIRE front porch and posts in the back all have a uniform shine if it was just a case of over application? If it were splotchy I could understand. And what about the "chalky" issue when running my hand over the flat area? That just doesn't seem right to me.
I just noticed something else. While reading the label on the bucket I noticed the drips on the bucket are two different colors as well. Some glossy, some flat. I think something is wrong with the paint. I made a reply earlier discussing my dealings with the Olympic customer service rep but it's not here. Not sure what happened.
Mike, I would take it to the store and show them.
Just applied the Olympic Maximum Stain + Sealer. I pressure washed about a month ago, bought the stain last week and finally got around to it today. Had the stain shaken at the store and I stirred it today. The weather was in the upper 70's and overcast, a perfect day for staining. I started in the front, cutting in with a brush then rolled the stain on the porch, going in two directions to make sure all was covered. Has a nice glossy finish I was happy with. Started cutting in then rolling the back. When I was finished and cleaned up I looked at the deck in the back and the stain was flat, no sheen at all. Ran to the front and it was still nice and glossy! Touch it and it's still tacky. Go back to the deck and it's almost dry to the touch. An hour or so later it is dry enough to walk on, you swipe your hand across it and it seems "chalky". Any idea what happened to the stain in the back? I tried calling Lowes and they gave me the Customer Care number to Olympic but of course they were closed. Also, the areas where I cut in and painted the posts are glossy. Can it be saved? Please help
Mike, not sure what happened but the only way to fix properly is to remove and start over..
So tell me what you make of this. I called the Olympic customer care number and explained the situation. The guy tells me the flat look is correct because it penetrated into the wood. It isn't supposed to have a sheen to it and the shiny will likely peel in a few months because it didn't penetrate! The wood was DRY! I asked about the chalky issue and he had no explanation for that but insisted it is supposed to look flat. I don't buy it. So now I'm not sure if I should go buy another 2 gallons and have it mixed with what I have left and re-apply, buy 3 gallons and start fresh or if I can put a clear sealer over it to give it that water-beading sheen that I feel it should have? Thoughts?
Mikes, deck stains are supposed to be penetrating and dull, not shiny. You over applied in the areas where the Olympic is shiny and he is correct that it will peel as it filmed on top of the surface. I would not apply more but rather remove and start over. You cannot put anything on top and that would make it worse/
I am building new deck with green pressure treated lumber. I will wait until next spring to clean and stain. I plan on cleaning and staining underside of boards now before I install them. Is this a good idea or am I wasting my time? I have heard from a proffessional that as far as he is concerned, the best penetrating finish is a emulsified oil CWF UV made by the Flood Co. Any opinions?
John, no need to stain the underside and no advantage. Flood used to make great stains about 12 years ago.
Behr Weather proof wood stain Semi Transparent on Pressure treated deck 15 years old. Used to use Thompson water seal then wanted color so used Behr.
Waltham MA (10 miles west Boston) This is third coat over 3-4 years. Third application was Summer 2012. I must be pretty dumb to think that it would ever work after first messy and uneven coating of first time and failure by the next spring. The winter ruins it. Stain failed by the next year. It looks terrible now. Some places bare and others peeling. I was told by painters that this is how it is and it needs to be treated every year. Power wash is first step and then deck stripper. Unless you direct me otherwise. Please tell me what kind of treatment will work better and for how long. I don’t mind treating every year if it will look ok. sorry if this is second posting. Not great at IT
You must use Behr's Cleaner, Brightener, Conditioner before you stain or you're just coloring dead wood fibers. Even if you power wash it there is still mildew in the wood that will deteriorate your stain. You especially need it to remove the residue from the Deck Stripper product. I used Behr products in south Florida for years and they held up quite well in the heat and moisture.
I Have a PRESSURE TREATED deck that is maybe 15 years old. Originally had Thompson water seal. This was probably not removed but it was cleaned before Behr put on. The deck has had 2 coats of Behr weather proof semi trans wood stain.One 2011 and 2012. Of course I bought the GIANT 5 gallon bucket as I thought I'd need it to use for some years to come. Terrible. Peeled and blotchy after a few months. Went on blotchy too. It was put on heavily and seemed to soak in. Now the horizontal boards are peeling and cracked. Please advise me what to use. I understand from reading that it will need to be stripped. Is there a stripper that is not toxic or terrible for the environment? And then what? Thanks for your help.
I live on Long Island and have a PT wood deck that is 23 years old and the wood is in good condition. I have always used a transparent clear preservative on the deck because I like the natural look. I know it requires constant upkeep but I am willing to do it one more year. The last product I used was Thompson's and the deck grayed terribly and had a great deal of mildew. Can you recommend a transparent clear preservative that will give me some UV protection and prevent mold and mildew? The deck is in part sun and shade. Basically, what is the lesser of all the transparent evils? I can't get TWP, Defy. or Armstrong Clark and I need to purchase it ASAP. (Of the readily available preservatives). Thanks! (Deck is cleaned and ready to go)
Marge R, clears will not give any UV protection. Need a tint for this. I am not sure what is sold in your area.
Sherwin Williams Solid Stain Deckscapes
Applied last week
Atlanta, Georgia area
Stain removal issues
My PT wood deck was stained using Cabot semi-transparent stain about 4 years ago.
Wife didn't like the color that the stain had faded into (pink), so I hesitatingly agreed to use a solid deck stain.
I stripped the old stain, filled knot holes, and the deck looked good as new, less the stain.
I selected the SW Deckscapes acrylic solid stain, pale green color.
Love the color, etc.
Problem Number 01: Poplar leaves that drop on the deck when wet leave dark stains. Tried removing the stains – no luck.
Problem Number 02: Red mud was tracked onto the deck at about 2 PM. I assumed that the mud/stains would just wash off of the fairly new stain – WRONG!!!!! Started trying to remove the mud/stains at about 6 PM. No luck – mud stains still there.
Is there a solution to this staining issue? Is the problem with my stain or is this just a fact of the beast (solid stain)?
Does this improve with age of the solid stain?
So far, I am very, very, very, very displeased… The Cabot Stain previously on the deck never had these issues.
The worst deck stain in my opinion is Behr. Highly recommended by the lads at Home Depot but really just terrible. I did like the brightness of the color though. (15 years exposure my foot, I don't think it lasted 15 weeks)
Painted it last summer 2012 and it started peeling before the fall of the same year.
The only place it really stuck was the three drops I accidentally spilled on a glass table while painting. Now to figure out how to prep the deck to re-stain it.
what is the best stain for a fence in upstate South Carolina? New fence that has been up for a year. as leaning toward Behr or Cabot until I read these reviews, but are not decks different?
Jane, look at the TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.
Cabot tinted semi-solid deck stain cut 50-50 with the clear semi-solid because Cabot actually puts excessive tint in the semi-solid so it ends up looking like the deck was painted with latex if you don't thin the tinted with the clear.
Lasted (7) years on my deck before I had to re-do the job. Spindles were somewhat faded and floor was nearly devoid of color, but (7) years is a long time for a deck to maintain its color in Michigan.
I'm currently doing it again with Cabot and swear by the product. One hint: keep applying stain until the wood won't absorb any more. Makes for an expensive job, but lasts years longer than a quick superficial job.
We tried Behr Premium Weatherproofing Stain…. Not really a stain… More of a plastic coating… We were building a new deck … Good thing we tried this on a few boards before we finished building it… Looked very blotchy… Took multiple coats… Looked online to find a better way to apply and found all the Horror stories… This stuff should not be alowed to be sold… Stay Away!!!
Fully agree. New deck. The behr was applied. Premium stain 4 to 7 years. Guarantee. Lasted 8 months. Peeling and chipping. Compainrd and they replaced the stain and refunded the cost of the
stripper. Stripper is
caustic and caused the wood to swell. Now having to sand it smooth after power washing. A god-damn mess overall we live in kansas . No more big box crap
I have a small deck that was built about a year ago with regular pressure treated wood. It is in the shade for most of the day. I did not get to stain it, and it is has a lot of black mold. I would like your advice on how to best remove the mold and prepare the wood, and what stain would stand up best in this shady environment. I would prefer that it be semi-transparent with a medium or medium-dark hue. Also, can you please tell me where I should be able to buy the products you recommend.
One other question: Once I remove the mold, is it okay to wait a few weeks before the stain is applied, or do I hve to do it immediately?
Thank you so much for your help!
Jon Sundell
Jon, the Restore A Deck Kits will prep the wood and remove the mold. Try Armstrong Clark in the Rustic Brown.
Olympic Deck Cleaner (mostly bleach) applied with a garden sprayer and then power-washed off. Kills mold & mildew and prepares the wood for a good stain job. Go easy with the power-washer so you don't strip out all the soft wood from the grain.
My deck is 25 yrs. old and has been treated 2 or 3 times. It needs help. Should I use oil or water base? I read that algae grows faster with oil based stains. One board needs replacing. I was hoping to keep the natural look and thought perhaps clear or transparent would be nice but do I need a solid stain to hide the new board?
Bernice, strip off the old coatings and stain with the Defy Extreme of you have mold issues. That is a water based stain. If you want an oil then look at the TWP brand.
September 2010 used Behr SemiTransparent Oilbased Stain in Cedar color on our deck. I have used the same product before, but obviously they changed the product. It looked more like an Opaque PAINT and did not get into the wood like an oil stain. We have been so unhappy with the look of it and now it is peeling! I would never use this Behr product again. I am trying the TWP 1500 in Cedartone next and am hoping it will be the penetrating stain that I have used before.
Konda, for the TWP to work correctly you will need to remove the Behr 100% so the TWP can soak into the wood.
I have a cedar deck inside a screened in covered porch in midwest Illinois. Deck was installed November of 2012 and I am now ready to stain. Any recommendations out there for what stain to use? I also have a jacuzzi sunken into the deck.
Jamie, I would look at the Defy Extreme or TWP 1500.
I used Defy extreme light walnut and it sucks! It went on orangish and after 1 year is all but faded on my horizontal surfaces. The old Defy stain was much better.
I DID 3 DECK 2 WEEKS AGO AND THE ONLY SOLUTION I FOUND IT WAS SANDED
Sikkens the worst ever. Failed after 6 months then it took 3 applications of stain remover to remove it. Dried to a ugly unnatural color. Purchased it because consumers report gave it a high rating. I don't subscribe to the magazine any longer.
I tried Sikkens too, and it is awful. I shouldn't have to restain my deck twice a year, because it is peeling away. All was done properly too, along with having a deck in good condition to start with. A lot of work for nothing. Would never use again.
You did something wrong my friend. Did you sand the deck first? Was it cetol or DEK? I never had a problem with Sikkens. They make products for siding and decks. You might of used a siding product on your deck. Sorry to hear about that.
Oh same here! I love Sikkens! Been in our house for over 30 years and that is all we use on our back and front deck! Thought I would try Behr the one that covers everything and I hate it! Now Paw prints and foot prints show up everywhere! I wish it would peel off!
Hey @buyamerican
Would be curious to know what sikkiens product was used and where it was applied? I've been a sikkens dealer for quite a time now and have had no real issues with the product, but since they've been purchased by PPG, I would be curious to know if the quality is/has been starting to dimish?!
I've been in this home for seven years, but home is older than that and deck has never been treated with anything. It is covered with southern exposure, but one end is shaded by a tree and there is green mold at the base of supports in shade. In southern PA near MD border. Will be power washing soon. Any recommendations as to what product to use. We like a natural weathered look, but am considering a semi-transparent for slats and railings, but leaving floor natural.
I have really appreciated all the comments on this website.
Rand, use a deck cleaner and wood brightener when washing. This will make is easier for you and will reduce the chance of damaging the wood. You could use a clear for the floor as that will allow the wood to naturally weather. TWP 1500 clear for the floors and one one of the colors for the rails.
Sherwin Williams Deckscapes semi-transparent started to peel 4 months after application on new wood which sat for 10 months before staining. It was stained by a professional and the store assistant manger came out to check their product and blamed a chemical being on the wood prior to staining. Deck was prepped as instructed with deck wash and rinsed thoroughly. I would not recommend this product to my worst enemy it has ruined my new deck. Thanks Sherwin Williams for standing behind your faulty product!
I was a Sherwin Williams store yesteday to buy SuperDeck which I used for over 15 yrs only to find out Sherwin Williams bought SuperDeck 2 yrs ago. The manager said that the SuperDeck they now sell there use to be called Deckscapes, which based on the reviews, is horrible. I suspect that Sherwin Williams just changed the label from Deckscapes and now call the formulation SuperDeck. All I think are waterbased, except for the transparent selection. Do your research and ask questions however before buying SuperDeck. The old SuperDeck worked fine on our deck and lasts about 3 yrs in the Pacific NW rain. I may give TWP 1500 a try instead.
I'd email their corporate office. I was a painter for 25 years. They mixed an order wrong color in a paint and put the label for the right color over it to cover it up. They paid my crew to repaint the house the correct color and gave us product for the next job for the hassle. They will back it up, its about who you get ahold of, call the store and demand the district office number and speak with him. That guy likely didn't give a crap. I'd email or call and complain about it. I stopped using them because they got expensive. Their service was better than home depot were I shopped for my low end paints. But I used the best which is Benjamin Moore for the customers that wanted a better paint.
new pressure treated deck. Waited one year to cure then cleaned, waited 2 weeks and used cabot semi transparent. After 6 months I started getting black mold and stain is peeling off. I just want to get it looking "decent" for this year then next year have it stripped and restained. Can I just clean it and go over where its peeling?
Bob, I would not do a touch up job. It will not look good and will make it harder to fix. Either wait or strip it all down and start over.
OK, with further reading, I now have a definition for "brighten". Defy not available in Canada so added cost of shipping will make the product less agreeable (large deck) and it seems to be the same for TWP and Armstrong Clark. You win some, you lose some.
And a follow up question… if I flip the boards (deck fifteen years old) do I need to allow some period of time before I set to cleaning and brightening or can I just proceed immediately?
Bernie, maybe allow it to weather a little. Maybe a month then clean and brighten. What stains can you find locally? We can help narrow those down.
Behr, Sherwin-Williams' Deckscapes, Sikkens, General Paint's Woodcraft (canadian company and the product now on the deck surface). But it appears that the folks here are insisting on a repeat of a solid-color coat for reasons of personal taste so I guess I'll have to let them live with the maintenance problems that will accrue.
Thanks kindly for your help. You have a great site here.
If they are suing a solid color stain then see if you can find Flood\’s version. If not then use Sikkens solid stain.
Bernie, whenever you use a deck cleaner or deck stripper you need to use a deck brightener to neutralize.
Pacific Northwest, Vancouver Island near ocean. Brother's 15 year old deck is in fairly bad shape (cupping, cracking in a few places) and stain (after multiple coats). Am considering flipping boards over. If I do so, what prep and product would be recommended (pressure treated boards)?
Bernie, once flipped. Clean and brighten the wood to prep then look at Defy Extreme or Armstrong Clark.
Seattle, WA
Full sun but also is fully exposed to a lot of rain during the year
Cedar
No mold or mildew issues
Stained our brand new cedar deck with 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Deckscapes Stain in August 2012. Started peeling/chipping/flaking after 3 months. Almost completely removed in high traffic areas 7 months later. We allowed the wood to "age" for 2 months before staining. Cleaned and pressure washed before staining.
That was your mistake. Never two coat with stain.
Do not agree w/the 2 coat comment…I also used the same stain on my deck , with all the proper prep.work….it peeled terribly. …Sherwin Williams stain was a disaster. ….they.lost my business…..after NO worries on there part…..there will always be another person like me , that will walk through their door and fall for the same false information I did…..
Ronseal should be avoided at all costs.I have used this and it peeled within 6 months.Ronseal sent me some cleaner and the new improved deck stain.This was also rubbish and peeled. They then sent a very helpful man around "Steve Squires " Steve makes a good living from removing ronseal stains from decks. He told me that no one must ever use Ronseal deck stain.It is rubbish. He has even asked ronseal to remove it from the market but they refuse!! As he said to me.No stain can ever stay on a deck as people walk on it, so it will always wear off.He recommends a light deck oil and nothing else.This is what they do in America and they have more decks than us.Sound advice, as quality decking will grey in time and have a natural look.TAKE HIS ADVICE.I DID and my deck is a nice grey natural colour.
Benjamin Moore Arborcoat with extender
Translucent Teak
Long Island
Applied June, 2012
Failed in mid February, 2013
Applied to two 750 sq. feet cedar decks – one 4 months old and the other 23 years old that was stripped of old stain. Both looked terrible after installation. Dried too fast even with B M extender. Dark lines at edges. The new deck totally pealed under January snow storm. Garden hose able to wash away a good portion of The rest. Old deck pealed in places. Both decks need to be stripped and restained. .
I tried to log in, without success, so I'll do this as a guest. Cabot opaque stain $37.98/gallon. New pressure treated lumber for dock in S. Florida in full sun. Waited for lumber to dry completely. Put stain on in April, 2012. By now, January 4, 2013, wood is dried out and cracking. No rain fell a month before or after dock was built and stained. Sent photos to Cabot. They told me because we didn't stain all 4 sides of each plank they'd only refund the cost of the stain. Cold comfort. Has anyone else had similar problems?
Charlotte, how long did you let the wood dry out for? How did you prep the new wood before staining?
It dried out for 10 days. No prep. There was no prep recommended on the Cabot label.
Floridawoman, This is from the Cabot Product Data Sheet: "New smooth wood that is unseasoned or appears shiny should be allowed to weather sufficiently before staining". I do admit it is vague and they should address proper preparation. All new wood should be cleaned and brightened.
I contacted the man who installed the dock and it dried out for over two months, not 10 days. I found the paperwork from the wood and it came in January. How do you clean and brighten new wood?
Any deck cleaner and wood brightener would work to help prep the wood.
Why would you wait until Spring? It looks really bad right now as we have not stained the railings and spindles. They have been pressure washed . I think we are going to rent a sander to sand down the deck floor but am unsure how to handle the railings and spindles- Should we just hand sand them- yikes? Thanks for your help with this!
Telezk, You do not need to sand but clean/strip the old stain then brighten. I would wait since the season is pretty much over.
Would you go with the 100 or the 1500 TWP?
Telezk, either are equally good. Take inconsideration that lighter colors will fade faster then darker colors.
SW Virginia
Cabot Semi-transparent
Oil based
May 2012
I have a PTP deck that is partially covered and had not been treated in 5 years. The covered part of the deck is still in really good shape while the uncovered part is severely weathered with cracking and major greying. We pressure washed it and used a deck wash and let it dry out for 72 hours and then applied Cabot Semi-transparent – horrible results on the whole deck. Looked good to begin with but after about 4 months half of the stain had disappeared. I have pressure washed the deck and used a deck cleaner and just wonder what would be the best TWP to go with – I have read alot of good things about 100 but I have a client that has used the 200 series on their deck and they swear by it – said it last longer than the 100 series. What do you recommend? Would you sand the deck prior to treating? Should I use a brightener as well? Thanks!
Telezk, I personally would wait until Spring then Strip off all of the Cabot and brighten the wood before switching to TWP. The 200 Series is designed for cedar shakes and shingles. It is not designed for decking but many do use it on it. We have personally used it on decks and it does work great but it can take weeks to dry.
We have a CCA pressure treated lumber deck that is 10 yrs old. We have maintained it yearly, but this year we have noticed a lot more wear and would like to know what product you would suggest for us. We prefer a natural look. We live in Kansas so we usually have hot summers, cold falls, wet springs and snowy winters. This deck is our direct pathway to our back yard, we entertain and we have an 80lb dog. Thanks
Kansas Crew, I would strip off any of the old stain and then brighten the wood to prep. As for a stain, you would want something that penetrates deep into the wood and is easy to maintain with reapplication as needed. TWP 100 or Armstrong Clark would work well for you.
1. Benjamin Moore
2. Exterior Finish, one coat, translucent finish – alkyd
3. Back deck in mid June 2012
4. It failed immediately, 2 months later, one area turned black
5. I seriously believe it was the company who applied the stain, but I wanted to get another opinion in case it truly was the stain.
Thanks
MTB
Michael, Sounds like it could have been both but I would blame the stain before the company.
Can either be purchased locally or do you have to order on line?
George, both are available in select stores in local markets. I would contact the manufacturer\’s for help with that.
I have an old deck that has damage for power washer. I read oil was better than water-based. I am looking at Defy or TWP. Which would you recommend?
Sandy, either would be fine for this deck.
Chicago Area. Applied TWP 1500 Cedartone Semi-transparent to a deck and fence in late winter/early spring. Deck was built in November & Fence in December. Both are built of pressure treated yellow pine. The treatment is AC2 micronized copper.
First the good: I sprayed the fence after brushing off any dirt & giving it a spray-off and time to dry. I'm very happy with it. I was hoping it would cover a bit better but that's the trade for a True semi-transparent. I see my wood-grain, knots… as it should be in my book and the color looks great.
The deck is on the north side of the house. 2/3'rds of it gets sun morning to around noon, then shaded by large trees. The rest is full shade.
To apply, I scrubbed it down very well (twice) with an oxygen cleaner & rinsed multiple times. Let dry & applied with a Deckmate brush/pad. It went on easily & looked great too, but only for a couple months. Then the part that gets sun started bleaching-out. Now some parts of the grain look un-stained & others look normal. Perhaps I had a penetration problem, but I was hoping for much better protection from this high-end product. 🙁
Scott, sounds like a penetration issue. TWP suggest waiting 4-12 months before staining new wood. This allows the stain to penetrate. New ptp wood is even more difficult to penetrate when new. If this deck was a year old you would not have had this issue.
Upstate NY. Partial sun, filtered sun and some shade. New TREX decking "Tree House" color. Pressure treated posts and railings. Want a stain that will match or compliment the "Tree House", show some grain and offer protection. Did not like the dirty paint look of the BEHR solid that specifically matched the Tree House color of TREX. Posts and railings are new and have been washed.
I just applied olympic Maxixum stain-sealer to new deck.what a nightmare!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It shows every drip,overlap,and streak.I kept going when I knew I should have stoped,where I cut in with brush looks fine,having put it on fairly dry.when I started using the sponge applicator it looked like crap pretty quick.if I did one board at a time job would take days
i
Richard, Olympic switched to a water based version recently. Basically a thin paint. This is why it does not apply well or evenly. It was a better product before they switched.
We are a deck cleaning company, and use Olympic Maximum products by the hundreds of gallons every season. It holds up beautifully, and is reasonably priced. Sealing the deck properly tho is key. There can be no drip marks, so use a tarp if you are messy! And overlap marks only happen when you try to cover too much area too quickly. Take your time. Be careful. You will LOVE the results!
Give this product another try! Start with a toner, which will powerwash off easily if you don't like it.
Good luck! D Palmer, POW! POW! Powerwash'nSeal
Behr deck stain
Oil based
Applied in August of 2011
Was "washed off" within 6 months.
Very poor quality!
Cabot Semi-transparent (oil stain). Awful. Location North Carolina Piedmont . Brand new weather treated pine deck. High quality wood. Well prepared. Waited a few months before staining. Power-washed. I was prepared to have to renew every 2 years. What a surprise, In the flat, exposed lot of the stain was gone!! withinh 4 months. Store owner and Cabot rep gave us free stain to re-stain horizontal surfaces. On re-stained horizontal areas, mostly gone in 6 months!! Better preserved on vertical areas not washed by rain. Terrible product.
So can any of you recommend a GOOD product? I just sanded my 4 year old cedar deck completely – the wood looks beautiful and I would like to stain it now but with all the reviews i don't know which product to use. The deck gets a LOT of sun in summer and rain in the winter (Seattle). Thanks for your input 🙂
Hannelie, I would look at TWP 1500 Series.
Ready Seal is the best stain out there. It will keep the cedar looking looking good. On a deck you do have to reapply every two years because the the is harsh. If any company tells you different they are trying to sell you something other than their product. Go to http://www.Readyseal.com
Steve, Ready seal had very poor color retention in our tests. There a are better stains out there. We personally know of many contractors who have switched away from Ready Seal to products like TWP or Armstrong Clark.
Ready Seal Review