This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Hi, I’m Scott Paul, an exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior wood decking. My review of Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is based on my extensive background as a wood restoration contractor and hands-on testing. I’m here to share my honest insights to help you make the best choice for your decking needs.See here for more info about me.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Reviews
At DeckStainHelp.com, we take great pride in being the Internet’s go-to resource for all things related to exterior wood and deck restoration. Customers who have used Armstrong Clark wood deck stain consistently rave about the appearance and durability of their deck stain projects. If you’ve used Armstrong Clark on your deck, we’d love to hear your thoughts! Feel free to leave a comment below and share pictures of your completed projects.
The newest addition to the Armstrong Clark line is the Espresso semi-solid color, a rich, deep brown tone that offers excellent UV resistance, ensuring your deck stays looking great for years to come.
Armstrong Clark Deck Stain Review
Important Note: This is our 3rd Review of Armstrong Clark Stain.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain is a well-respected oil-based stain, crafted with over five generations of experience in the stain industry. It comes in several formulas: transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid colors, offering options for a variety of wood types and aesthetic preferences.
What sets Armstrong Clark apart is its unique formulation, blending drying and non-drying oils that are applied separately. The non-drying oils penetrate the wood fibers, helping to rejuvenate and restore the wood’s natural oils. Meanwhile, the drying oils cure on the surface, locking in the conditioning oils and creating a protective barrier against the elements, ensuring long-lasting weather protection for your deck.
Armstrong Clark Stain Review
How I Rated Armstrong Clark Deck Stains
My Armstrong Clark Deck Stains review contains an 8-step process and the final average score. Each step is on a scale of 1-10.
- The appearance of Armstrong Clark Deck Stains after the Application
- Preventing UV Graying
- Peeling or Wearing
- Cost Per Square Foot
- Preventing Mold and Mildew
- How Easy was the Application
- Color Shifting for Armstrong Clark Deck Stains
- Ease of Reapplication
- Armstrong Clark Deck Stains Final Score
8-Step Review of Armstrong Clark Stain
1. Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 9
Armstrong Clark’s initial appearance was a rich, deep finish with naturally enhanced wood grain showing through the stain formula. Our choice of the Cedar Semi-Transparent color had a rich cedar tone.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Photos
2. Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
Upon our 2-year inspection, Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain in the Cedar Semi-Transparent color produced above-average UV resistance. With the Armstrong Clark, the transparent colors would deliver slightly less UV shielding due to less pigment in the formula, while the semi-solid colors would have slightly better UV protection when in full sun.
3. Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
No peeling was detected at the 2-year point. There was slight wear on the high traffic areas, around the furniture, and on the stairs.
4. Cost Per Square Foot: 9
Armstrong Clark Deck Stain can be purchased for $49.99-$69.99, depending on the opacity of the formula. In our test experience, Armstrong Clark had one of the best spread rates of any stain. We used 3.5 gallons on our 600 square foot deck applied in one coat.
5. Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 8
At 2 years we noticed some slight mold growth on top of the Armstrong Clark stain in some shaded areas. We did not detect any mildew spores within the stain as the mildew spores could be wiped away using a wet towel.
6. Ease of Application: 9
The Armstrong Clark Deck Stain was super easy to apply and extremely user-friendly. Upon the manufacturer’s claims of being able to apply in direct sunlight, we tested our application on a 90-degree day in full sun. We were surprised the stain did not dry too quickly and applied evenly in those conditions, avoiding potential issues with Applying a Deck Stain in Full Sun. There were no excess dripping issues on the railings even though we applied using a pump sprayer and back wiped with a stain brush. The semi-transparent stain applied well using this method.
7. Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8.5
Our 2-year test of Armstrong Clark Stain in Semi-Trans Cedar color did show signs of slight darkening from its original color. We figured this was likely due to the formula’s higher solid content. The AC is over 70% solids containing linseed and paraffin oils.
8. Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
Because Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain penetrates well and does not overly darken, it would be easy to recoat. A simple cleaning with a wood deck cleaner to remove dirt, grime, and mold spores would be sufficient prior to reapplying.
Overall Score Armstrong Clark Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.5
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain performed exceptionally well during our 2-year test. Its easy application and impressive coverage rates elevate it to the top tier of wood stains. We noticed no peeling, and the slight darkening color shift that occurred was more than acceptable. The stain is also easy to maintain and prep before recoating, which is a significant plus for long-term care.
Overall, Armstrong Clark remains one of our top choices for a professional, durable finish. It not only lasts but is also straightforward to work with, making it an ideal option for both initial applications and future maintenance.
Product Information:
More Info: Armstrong Clark Stains
Cost: $59.99 per Gallon, $299.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid – Oil-Based
Available Colors: Transparent Natural, Transparent Cedar, Transparent Redwood, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Trans Amber, Semi-Trans Mahogany, Semi-Solid Mountain Cedar, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown, Semi-Solid Oxford Brown, Semi-Solid Sequoia, Semi-Transparent Chestnut, Semi-Trans Natural Oak, Semi-Trans Black Walnut for Hardwoods
Application Temperature: 50-110 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 8-72 Hours, Depending on UV exposure and air temps
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: Under 50 VOCs. Compliant in All 50 States and Los Angeles Counties
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Armstrong Clark
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 600
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Semi-Transparent Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Consider that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain Review Video
I just stripped and stained my old redwood deck with Armstrong Clark Natural Oak semi trans and I’m happy with it. The directions on the can are great, but I’m surprised they don’t recommend pad application. Nonetheless, I used a pad and it worked really well,
Looks great!
Deck Stain Help,
We just wanted to give you a big thank you for all the prepping and staining advice. In the end we decided to go with Armstrong-Clark on account of some advantages it offers. We have a large south facing deck. The fact that we could put it on in the sun is a big plus as it is too hard to time a dry deck with an overcast day and no foreseeable ran here in the NW. The other big advantage of this product is that you let it sit and soak in for 24 hours instead of having to towel it off 30 to 60 minutes after application. This is a huge labor saver that keeps you from trying to towel up stain while you are still trying to get it on other areas. Within 24 hours it was all soaked in and looking nice. We used the Armstong-Clark Cedar Semi-Transparent on cedar deck boards. Thanks again for all the help!
Lee
Looks great!
Hi Scott. Should I put a second coat on now or latter? New con heart about two weeks old. Lightly sanded 150grit. Brushed on Anderson-Clark Amber. 2 1/2 gallons covered 800 sq.ft. I was surprised. Pics about an 1/2 hour after the 3 hrs it took to stain, once sanded and swept. How can I send pics?
Hi Perry,
Unfortunately, you stained your new deck prematurely and didn’t prepare it correctly. New wood neds to weather for three or more months and the prep should be the cleaner and brighentener to remove mill glaze and oxidation, not sanding. There is a reason it spread so thin, because the new wood directions were not followed, and your wood was unable to accept the stain properly.
New wood tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Just leave it alone for a year. It may wear unevenly since you stained it too soon. If it does, you will need to strip and brighen for prep.
FYI, never sand finer than 60-80 grit as it will reduce stain penetration.
I wanted to wait several years before posting this to be certain my recommendation was well founded and accurate.
It has now been seven years and I can confidently recommend the Armstrong Clark stain product for exterior, element exposed cedar. I am in Portland, OR and have cedar carriage garage doors.
The house was built in 6/2008. I had wanted a smooth furniture finish on the doors and so the painter applied numerous thin coats of lacquer to all exposed wood; mahogany front doors, cedar soffits, the cedar ceiling over the enclosed deck, and the garage carriage doors.
By 10/2013 the lacquer had peeled off the garage doors due to the direct southern exposure to sunlight, rain and snow but I will say all other exterior wood was and is still fine.
After researching and finding this site I removed the garage doors, stripped, brightened, properly sanded (going through each grit until 1200) and then applied the Armstrong product as four thin coats.
One gallon was sufficient for two doors (3 Car)
Throughout the years there have been no problems with the product or with any type of greying or fading of the wood.
Despite my best effort at sanding this is still not a smooth, glossy finish which what I desired but I see that that is not practical nor does the product purport to deliver that.
However due to the slight roughness on the surface I do find that pollen and dust stick to the doors so I just wipe them down monthly.
In considering all attributes that this site uses to rate stain products, the Armstrong is superior to the other products I have dealt with.
I helped a family member with his deck and he insisted on a using different product because of the price. What a foolish choice he made!
The cost of the stain is so minimal when compared to labor and time costs.
In 2020 I did give the garage doors a very light sanding and added a single coat before I sold my house.
It looked beautiful and I believe the doors were a contributing factor in selling the house, even during the slower housing market.
I highly recommend the product and I will use it again.
Extremely impressed with this stain. After a backbreaking job of sanding and brightening the cupped pressure treated 7’x28’ front porch and four 5’ wide steps, I was praying the finished product would be worth it. I wasn’t disappointed. A complete transformation. Very easy to apply, and huge bonus not having to time application to avoid the sun. Used two coats applied only about 20 mins apart but dries enough in that time to not have worries about leaving shoe imprints on previously coated surfaces. Finish was rich and smooth. After almost a year signs of wear are minimal, and only on steps used to drag bicycles and scooters up and down in addition to very heavy foot traffic.
Will recoat steps this summer and that’s it. Highly recommend,
Do you have any pictures to post?
I’m out of town for a couple of weeks but can get take some pictures when I return and post them at that time. I never think to do a before and after. If you had seen the before, you’d be amazed by the after.
Afters would be great. Thanks!
Just completed a KDAT Pine deck. Now can I apply AC or does it need the prep of other pressure treated Pine?
Have to wait about a month and then clean and brighten the wood for the prep.
I believe Armstrong Clark Wood, Deck stain is a Great product. But you have to read the instructions carefully. I have used this product and paid a pricey dollar for it . It was worth it, besides the side affects it has . If you leave it on your hands for a short period of time The chemical in it will burn you. Everytime !
I have used similar product, s and had a good out come with it. The true test is the application and patients. To get even coats every time. So please do not hire a contractor that just wants their money and run. You will get burned as well. Take the time and use a experience contractor. I sure did and it PAID off well. My trainer that was by my side thru the entire application process. . Never had problems with other contractors in the area. If you do Please just follow thru and take the contractor to court or put in jail. where some deserve the punishment of not giving quality work and waiting a lot of time .The contractors deserves what they get. Good Luck? ” Head up High. ”
Tiered of DIY products the Behr contractor mention several times. NO NO
Toni Allen
Fresh Start consulting and services, INC.
Wrap around decks all covered but one and it is 24×16..used Thompson Water
Seal and it doesnt last one season. Can I use an oil base stain deck stain over it?
Other decks are flaking and peeling but too much area for me to strip and restart
and cannot afford to replace. They had originally been stained with transparent
stain but when worn they were redone with solid deck paint. Needless to say
they flaked and peeled. Pressure washed last year but have not redone them.
Would an oil base stain ( non latex washable) be my best way to make them look
presentable?
No. You cannot use any brand over the Thompsons. It must be removed by stripping. For the other decks that are solid colored stain, you can only use a solid stain again unless you want to fully sand or replace the wood. Solid color decks stains are only available in water-based versions. We have not seen a solid color oil based stain in 5-8 years.
Howdy. Moved into a new house with a 5yr old 500 sq ft rooftop deck that doesn’t appear to have had any stain since it was constructed. It receives direct sunlight so is extremely grey at this point. Since it is also a bit rough to the touch, I was considering sanding. You don’t seem to advocate sanding as part of the preparation process. Would simply pressure washing, cleaning and brightening do the trick?
Lastly, would you recommend the AC over the TWP1500, or are they pretty similar? I’m in DC so super hot summers, a little bit of snow in the winter. Thanks so much!
No need to sand. Just clean and brighten. The AC is a great stain and so is the TWP 1500. Either would work well.
Hi, I applied AC Rustic a couple of years ago on my cedar deck and need to do a maintenance coat. I still have the RAD kit leftovers from before the original staining. I’ve seen somewhat conflicting info here as to whether I should use the cleaner only or the brightener as well before applying a maintenance coat of AC? Can I use a brush to scrub the cleaner or I need a pressure washer?
Thank you
Best to use both and light pressure washing. If you have time, post a finished picture.
FINALLY! I waited a year before posting my comments regarding the Armstrong-Clark Exterior Wood & Deck Stain (Semi-solid Sierra Redwood) as I wanted to come at this review with at least one year of wear and tear on the stain. Having owned three houses, all with wood decks (new and old) I have had the displeasure of trying all the leading deck stain products over 35 years including recently high end stains from Olympic (Elite 4200) and Defy External, among others. All have been a total disappointment. Before you say it was my poor prep I can tell you as a retired R&D engineer I faithfully follow manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. Just my nature. The last product I used was Defy External Clear. I had high hopes for this stuff but after only 7 months it started flaking. After a hard upstate New York winter it looked terrible! This was my starting point for one more stain try before ripping up the deck and replacing it with composite.
My 9 year old pressure treated deck faces SW and sees full sun for 3 months of the year. Temps range from 90 to 0 deg F with over 100 inches of snow. I sanded the entire deck surface to remove the remaining Defy product. I then used cleaner and brightener followed by a light sanding to remove the raised wood fibers then let it dry for a couple days. I applied the Armstrong-Clark stain with a brush and let it dry overnight. It went on great and the the semi-solid stain allowed the grain to show through exactly as I hoped it would. Now the wait was on.
So a year later the snow has melted off the deck and to my surprise the deck looks as good as it did when I applied the stain! It is still uniform in color and just a touch lighter. Water is still beading up in most areas. Even one difficult section that habitually had green algae due to the least sun exposure over the year looks great! There are a couple very small areas around two wood knots that look grey, probably to to excess resin in the pine wood that may have leached out but overall I am extremely satisfied with this product! My hats off to the folks at AC for FINALLY giving us a product that does what it says! Keep up the good work.
Thanks for your review on the AC. Do you have any pictures?
Here are a couple pictures, one from last year after staining and one from this spring after the snow had melted. Haven’t put the deck furniture out yet!
Looks great!
What color stain did you use? Thx
I used the Sequoia Semi Solid stain.
Thanks, it’s beautiful👍🏻
I installed new red cedar deck boards on our above ground pool deck in April 2017. The deck has gone through one full year without staining or finishing including this current winter of seasoning. I have purchased the Restore-A-Deck kit and the Armstrong Clark semi-transparent cedar stain from you to finish the new deck boards. I plan to complete this in May or June this year. Do I need to sand the “new” red cedar boards ahead of preparing them with the Restore-A-Deck kit and then applying the stain?
No need to sand prior to prep. It is possible though you may get some “fuzzies” after the prep since the wood has been sitting exposed for over a year. This is caused by heavy oxidation/graying that is removed during prep. Please read this article so you can be proactive if this happens: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Hello. I have a redwood fence that was installed in August 2017 in San Jose, Ca. I am considering the Armstrong Clark product. Is it too soon to do the initial stain on this fence? Temperature when I apply will be in the 60’s now.
You are good to stain at this point with the AC.
Can I use Armstrong-Clark on sitting areas; Adirondack chairs?
Yes. We use it on benches all the time.
Can I apply the Armstrong Clark over a TWP stain, or do I need to strip it? We’ve had some problems with mildew on our cedar fence and would like to try something different. Definitely don’t want to strip it – went down that road after dealing with Arborcoat. Are semi-solid stain less susceptible to mildew? Thinking something darker as well. Thank you!
You will need to strip it. The good news is that TWP is easy to remove. Just apply a stripper like the RAD stripper and pressure wash off. Neutralize with a brightener after. No harder than cleaning with a deck cleaner.
Semi-solids will not do any differently with mold prevention. They will offer better UV protection.
I really want to stain our new deck gray, but I’m having trouble finding a good quality stain with a gray color that actually looks gray (most seem to have a brown tint). I live in Michigan. I’ve already prepped the deck, so I’m raring to go, but finding a good quality stain is slowing me down. Any suggestions?
AC has a Driftwood Gray color. Make sure to let your new wood weather and prep.
Really good stain! I applied AC rustic brown to a new kdat deck 1 year ago, it looks like a piece of furniture. It’s time to reapply and the only thing i notice after a year is, it looks a little “dryer” or lighter than before.
Will this stain come off on feet and cushions?
Had bad experience with other products in the past. Was told that all stains legal in California have this problem!?
Full curing stains are 100% drying so they do not rub off. The AC is a full curing stain and a penetrating stain. The issue can be if you do not prep correctly or over apply. Has nothing to do with CA VOC laws.
I live in Toronto Canada, and have just had a new tongue and groove porch ceiling installed. It is white cedar. I would like to protect it while keeping it as close as possible to its natural color. It doesn’t get a lot of direct sunlight and is mostly protected from rain. Is this product appropriate for this application? And do I need to let it age first and / or pre-treat with something? It is already starting to darken and grey in streaks, and I was hoping to treat it before it gets too dark. Also in 3 months it will December and too cold. Thank you.
Yes, you need to weather and prep. About 3 months. Use their Natural color.
Thank you. Since it will be December in 3 months (and v. cold) will it be a problem to wait until spring/summer? And by prep, do you mean the ‘restore a deck’ kit?
It will be fine to wait until Spring of 2018. You can use the RAD Kits for the prep. We have used the AC Natural for cedar t&g before for one of our restoration jobs.
I live in the Denver, Co. area and just put in a red cedar deck. I want to maintain the color and grain of the wood but I’m confused by the number and type of products to choose from Cabot, Olympic, Valspar, etc…. what’s the best product to use?
Use the Armstrong Clark. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I put a coat of AC semi-transparent cedar stain on a new cedar deck last year. I thought it looked great but my wife wanted to tone down the color, which she felt didn’t go well with our light-brown log home. This year we decided to apply a coat of natural finish instead of a second coat of semi-transparent cedar. Now our deck is rapidly turning black. We live in New England, the deck is in full sunlight until mid-afternoon and fully exposed to the elements. We had zero problems with the first coat…what to do now?
Did you strip and brighten the wood for the prep? You cannot apply a lighter color over a darker color.
The first coat, though slightly faded looked good after a year, so I did not strip it off prior to putting the natural coat over it. I am assuming that I will need to strip the entire porch, both horizontal and vertical members, and essentially start over. What products are best suited for this, and what exactly is the best process?
Strip and brighten to fix is the correct way. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper Kits.
I have two decks: one made of ipe and the other redwood. I stripped, pressure washed and sanded the old Sikkens finish off both decks and applied Armstrong Clark wood stain in mahogany and the finish is terrific. It dried almost immediately on the redwood but took about a week to dry on the ipe.
I have mahogany railings and balusters on both decks that I sanded down to bare wood and then applied Armstrong Clark wood stain also in mahogany. After a week it still leaves a residue on your hands – it apparently takes a long time to thoroughly dry but the color is excellent.
I would like to apply 4-5 coats of an exterior urethane to the railings and balusters over the mahogany stain with a product such as Minwax spar urethane in a clear satin finish. Will this hold up over time? Pros and cons of doing this? Do you have another recommendation?
You cannot apply a poly over a deck stain and you should never apply a poly to exterior wood decking. It will blister and peel. Don’t do it and save yourself a lot of hassle of trying to fix it: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/apply-polyurethane-to-a-deck/
I did not intend to put a poly over my wood decking.
Is there any topcoat I could apply over the railings to give it a finish more in line with what you see on wood railings on sail boats or other water craft?
No. It will peel and blister with a top coat.
Can you use a pump sprayer to apply an AC stain or is that just bad? What is the downside?
It is too thick for a pump sprayer.
Hello, I have settled on Armstrong stain, but am still prepping my deck. I have pressure washed, and removed dirt/grime, etc. still have some areas of old stain. I believe this is Cabot spf, and can,t find if it is solid, semi solid, or semi transparent – trying to determine if I need a stripper to finish prepping, or if sanding is the only other thing to remove rest of the stain.
Representative photos attached. Thanks!
Try a stain stripper first. If that does not remove it, sand the rest off. Make sure to brighten the wood when done.
We are refinishing a modern cabin sized home with log ‘siding’ (pine?–not full logs) This is in Western Oregon where there are many months of rain. There are rain gutters, etc, but no overhang for protection. The original finish mildewed badly under the coating, so we went through a removal process of deck cleaner,with lots and lots of scrubbing and rinsing, and deck brightner and rinsing, which brought it back to a white wood that water will penetrate. As a precaution, because mildew under these semi transparent finishes is such a problem, we decided to also bleach it (40% bleach) and rinsed it well after it set a few minutes.
It appears that we have awesome bare wood now, but some say the bleach does not kill all the spores in the wood and it’s been suggested that we we spray it with undiluted white vinegar and just let that dry without rinsing it off. For one thing, the vinegar is supposed to create a PH that inhibits mildew. What kind of feedback can you give me regarding that vinegar step. Will it affect the bonding in any way if we go with a penetrating oil stain? Should we rinse the vinegar out ?
What would be the most highly recommended brands of stain ? A contractor said he has had terrible luck with mold growing back under new coatings of water borne stain and highly recommends going with a penetrating oil ( despite the fact that mildew is known to feed on oils like linseed oil ). Would anyone recommend Olympic Elite Woodland Oil, or Armstrong Semi-transparent Wood Stain, or Sun Frog Deck Sealer, or a Cabot product like Australian Timber Oil ? Do any of them last longer or have a truly simple recoat process (Armstrong claims a simple and easy recoat). Or should we give up the wood look and go for a solid color stain (water or oil) so we’re not faced with another tough recoat process in 2-5 years, especially if we wait a little too long and it starts discoloring. Your feedback would be greatly appreciated since there are so many conflicting opinions and suggestions out there. Thanks
Vinegar does change the pH level but will have zero effect on preventing mold/mildew in the future. Not sure if it will harm the stain’s performance or not. Doubt it will.
Go with the Armstrong Clark stain in a semi-solid color.
Hi, I have a 23 year old deck of treated pine. We have only ever used Thompson clear sealer on it. No stain ever. We just cleaned it this week with with bleach and detergent combo…it cleaned up really well. Rinsed off well with water and have let it dry for a few days. Then we repIaced one board….What should I do to that board…it beads up when with water is poured on…should I clean it too and/or sand before a applying the Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain???
Try sanding it.
Hello, I bought some non-treated pine boards and would like to stain them with semi-transparent black walnut. I was going to give them a lite sanding and then use Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner… Is this a good idea???
No. Do not use the Minwax.
What would you recommend ?
Thx
No need for a pre stain conditioner. Just go ahead with the AC after three months of weathering and prepping with a deck cleaner and a wood brightener.
Just wanted to confirm. I have a redwood deck being built now. You recommend waiting 4 months before staining it?? Also, is there a preferred temperature range for application? I’m in the Salt Lake City area and it doesn’t rain often but it’s quite warm right. now- high 90’s. Of course, in 4 months, it will be November. Snow will be a bigger concern than high temps. I’m assuming that it’s better to stain it before winter sets in. So perhaps, staining around the 2 month mark at the end of September??
AC wants about 3 months to age and prepped before staining. Just 1 coat. I would not do in Sept. You can wait until Spring. One Winter will not harm it.
Is it ok to use airless sprayer when applying Armstrong Clark semi transparent cedar stain on cedar fence?
Yes
I did test samples with Armstrong. We initially liked the new black walnut, but after a week, the stain has penetrated so deep into the wood, it is very light now. So my question is, how do we get that dark stain back as I assume if we put it on our whole deck, it will do the same. The test wood was a piece from our deck. we stripped the deck, sanded and brighten. its pine. we didn’t know if applying one coat, then waiting till the following year to apply a maintenance coat will bring it back to dark or not. we really do not want to apply two coats at time of application as that seems to be the death of a stain and the problems start.
Over application is not good. The AC will need to saok deep into the grain. Applying two coats can be done as long as the first coat fully soaks in after about 30 minutes.
Cleaning lightly and reapplying a year later can be done as well.
My computer is turning the word the into thanks so please excuse the incorrect wording in my recent post.
I live in Michigan and have ab upper and lower deck total about 1250 sq feet. The decks are 26 years old and since thanks beginning I have tried to research the best product to use to protect the wood. Since I hire people to do thanks work I am happy to pay more to get a product that will last longer. The decks are exposed to snow and direct western sun in summer.
I have been using Armstrong Clark mountain cedar semi solid for the last 6 years and am really impressed by its longevity on my decks. I had to convince my deck company to try it and supplied it to them. They were very pleased working with it.
Also, thanks customer support calling directly to the manufacturer in CA is A+. Good answers to all my questions.
It may not be as easy to get as some of the more common brands but worth the effort for a superior product.
We have had a new cedar deck installed. It faces west and gets full sun from 1:00 to dark. We live in the humid hot Midwest high above the Mississippi River. Since our home is a gray lime stone, I would like the cedar to age gracefully to silver gray without any sealing or staining . But from the information on your site, I am wondering if that is wise given our geography (not a dry climate.) Any advice will be appreciated. And thank you for all the information on the various product choices.
If you want to age or oxidize naturally to gray, then you should use a clear sealer without any tint.
previusly used cabotwoodtone deck&siding stain 3yrs ago .powerwashed deck &used deck cleaner but still shows some slight color on afew boards.hoping to use armstrong&clarke stain. willthis be aproblem.will probably power wash one more time.
Use a deck stain stripper and then pressure wash off. After you are done, apply a wood brightener to all.
I need to retreat my deck and like what I read about Armstrong Clark. I’ve stripped and prepped my deck but wonder if I’ve done enough. I live in metro Atlanta and have a small, near ground level 12 year old pressure treated deck with no railings. I’ve been using Thompson’s every couple of years and finally realize what a lousy product it is. The first few applications were clear but 2 years ago put on a semi-transparent variety. I was going to use it again but decided to find a better product. I started by using Behr’s finish stripper and scrubbed every square inch. Then scrubbed again with Behr’s wood cleaner to neutralize the stripper chemical. The wood now looks great, completely color-free and bright looking, seems to be in good shape. Is that enough prep for something like the Armstrong semi-solid or semi-transparent? Is oil based or water based a better choice? Thanks!
Should be as long as your removed the old stain and you cannot visibly see it anymore. AC is a great choice and comes only in oil based formulas.
Northern New York, larch siding (cove) I want the grain to jump out as it is rich and well contrasted and want high protection against graying — whats your recommendation?
The Armstrong Clark would work well for this.
Hello, I’m interested in staining my deck with Armstrong Clark Oxford Brown semi-solid. Their website says it is “not for sitting surfaces or furniture. Does this mean I should not apply to a deck (that has furniture on it), or are they saying it cannot be applied to to something like a wood bench? I’m also curious as to how the semi-solid stain would hold up to moving deck furniture/grill and dog paws? Thanks
Not for wood furniture is what they mean. It is used all the time for decking.
I live in Florida and used this stain on my deck…it is in directly sunlight the majority of the day. I applied this stain and it covered well and looked great when complete. However, every time I walk on the deck, my shoe soles are coated in pigment and it tracks everywhere.
This goes away in a few days as it fully cures.
I live in NY, Capital district area. My deck is sealed last 3-year with TWP-100 semi transparent, it faces the sun since morning until 2pm. Now it fade around and has splinters, some area still coated some area I can see wood.
I’m thinking about 2 choices:
1 Go with AC semi -solid this year, Would it last longer than semi-transparent than TWP? Do I have to strip it and brighten it?
2 Go with TWP-100 again, do I just clean and brighten it?
Your answer would be appreciated.
1. Semi-solids have slightly better UV protection from fading. Strip and brighten for the prep.
2. If staying the same, just clean and brighten but the 100 Series is not allowed in NY. You have to use the 1500 there based on VOC laws.
Per choice 1. Instead of stripping it, can I sand then brighten it?
Stripping is much easier than sanding and the TWP is an easy product to strip. If you sand, use 60-80 grit and you should lighly clean and brighten after to open the pores and remove any sand dust.
Will sanding 1 year old red cedar eliminate need for clearners etc.?
Not usually but depends on how much oxidation occurred.
Should i expect similar results with red cedar decking
Yes. We use it in WRC all the time.
Have an IPE deck approx 15 yrs old that had a semi solid stain . Used Restore A Deck cleaner and brightiner that worked fine , but I did not like the wear on the deck. So I sanded deck down to bare wood ,which looks great, and would like to use A C mahogany semi transparent stain. Should I go thru the cleaner / brightiner process again , or just apply stain on sanded IPE deck ?
Thanks for your help
Lightly clean and brighten after the sanding will help to open the wood grain for the stain.
Regarding you sq. ft., do these figures include railing, balusters, posts etc.? I have a 400 sq. ft. deck (10 x 40), but I have railing on 3 sides with vertical and horizontal rails, and balusters about 3.5″ apart. Is there a ballapark formula that you use to factor these in? I suppose I could just do the math, but you know – math is hard. 🙂
The reason I ask, I like the sound of the TWP, but wonder if a 5 gallon pail will cut it. I like the coverage of Armstrong , so if i could get it done for one pail at 210$, it might be worth it.
Thanks
Hello,
Everyting has to be measured. Typically for railings you do the length x the height.
I’ve put down the AC transparent cedar the last two summers on a 3 year old deck. I really like the colour but the deck gets almost full day sun so it only really lasts about a season. If I get the semi-trans cedar tone do I need to apply a stripper/cleaner again & brightener to the wood, or am I able to give it a cleaning & re-apply?
Good cleaning and reapply should be okay for the prep.
I ordered fifteen 1-gallon cans of Armstrong Clark. I haven’t tried the product yet, but seven of the cans were badly dented. I took pictures of the dented cans and the undamaged boxes they came in and sent them to the e-retailer who is blaming it on the shipper, Purolator. The cans were all tightly packed and the difference in the height of the inner boxes (they were double-boxed) and the cans themselves is 1/4″. The height of the dents range between 1″ and 1 1/2″ on the cans. Some of the dents were towards the outside of the box. I am not aware of any local business that sells this product, so I won’t be purchasing it again. If you like the product and can find it in stores, than I think that would be the way to go. But I would be cautious about ordering it online.
Hi Judy, small dents in a can will not harm the stain in any way. We get dented cans all the time and we use the stain and then throw the cans away when done. It is like a gallon of milk. No need to return a gallon that is dented as you use and toss away the milk carton when done.
I live in northern ontario how well will this stand up
It does depend on the UV exposure and the color you choose. On average, about two years for a deck.
Can Armstrong semi solid stain be applied on a previous solid stained deck that is peeling some what ?
Thank you for your time
Vic
No, that cannot be done. The only thing that can go over a solid stain is another solid stain or solid coating.
Since this is not recommended, then what solid stain out there would you recommend??? I’ve been looking EVERYWHERE, and I cannot find a good recommendation for a solid stain. Thanks!
We use Flood Solid stains and have pretty good results.
Is there an Armstrong-Clarke dealer in Southern Maryland or nearby?
Not sure. Check with the manufacturer for help.
We have a 1000 sq ft mahogany deck that was coated with Arborcoat over 2 years ago. The deck is over 15 years old and has had different stains over the years. I just want to pressure wash with a cleaner to remove the dirt and mold. I really don’t want to get it down to bare wood. What stain/sealant would you recommend for this deck that can cover over the old stain?
Ken, nothing can be applied over the BM Arborcoat. It has to be removed.
I was actually mistaken, it was Messmers that we used last time. Would we still need to remove it to put a new coat of something else on it? Could we use Messmers again without removing the old coat?
Ken, this is much easier to prep. Use a Restore A Deck Kit for the prep while pressure washing and then the AC stain. The kit should remove the Messmers rather easily.
Thanks for the tip. Are you referring to this product, https://www.restore-a-deck.com or something else?
Yes, that will prep it.
So I live in PA. My top deck is exposed year round to the elements, including extremely wicked summer sun and heat. It’s approximately 1 yr old and has never been sealed. I’m not sure if 1 year is accurate bc we bought the house in august 2016. It’s in great shape but needs to be addressed. It’s 5/4×6 pt and the rails and so on. I’m looking for the best, easiest clean up and most effective sealer. Not looking to change the weathered wood/graying much if possible. Suggestions would be great
You do have to prep. Use a deck cleaner and a wood brightener. This will remove the gray, but if you use a clear sealer (no tint) it will naturally gray again. Try Defy Extreme Clear.
We live in Northern CA and have a 2 year old 1435 sq foot redwood deck. Six months after the construction workers stained the new deck with Benjamin Moore stain, we had terrible peeling in the sunny parts of the deck. We sanded it down and reapplied the same stain. Four months later we had the same problem, peeling in the sunny areas. We just finished stripping, sanding and brightening the deck. What do you recommend we use to stain the deck?
The Armstrong Clark would work well for this.
were can you buy it in Canada Toronto Hamilton Burlington area ont.
Check with Armstrong Clark. Most likely you will need to order it.
So which stain would you recommend for a brand new Cedar fence. Armstrong and TWP you state are not to be used until 4 months of drying out. We live in central Texas so I do not think it takes that long for the wood to be ready for staining? Please advise and thank you for this fabulous site and info.
Wayne
Is the wood on the fence rough sawn cut? If so, you can stain now. If smooth wood, you will need to wait and prep. The AC would work well for a fence in TX.
Deck Location State: Minnesota
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Part Shade
Wood Type: cedar
Mold or Mildew Issues: Yes
Reason for Previous Stain Failure: Peeled and faded
Previous Stain Brand and Type of stain (Solid, Semi-transparent, Transparent, etc): Flood CWF-UV penetrating wood finish
Strip and brighten to remove the Flood. Stain with the Armstrong Clark after removal.
Can this be used on composite decks?
Probably not but best to ask manufacturer.