This post was updated on May 9, 2025
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck staining and prep. My reviews and help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing, all designed to present you with the top product choices. See here for more info about me
Search My Deck Staining Facts
Use the search to find deck staining and prepping facts.
The Top Deck Staining Questions & Answers
I started my journey in deck restoration in 1993, and over the years, I’ve restored more than 10,000 decks. This experience led me to create DeckStainHelp.com, which has since grown to be the largest online resource for all things deck restoration. Over the years, I’ve tested nearly every deck stain and sealant brand on the market, helping consumers find the best products and techniques for their specific needs.
DeckStainHelp.com was created 10 years ago to assist homeowners and professionals alike in selecting the right prep and stain products for their deck restoration projects. Since its launch, the site has helped answer over 78,000 deck-stain-related questions, offering customized guidance for each individual wood and deck restoration project.
Deck Stain Facts Answered
Welcome to our Deck Stain Facts page, designed to provide both consumers and contractors with the answers they need for wood and deck restoration projects. Over the years, I’ve received countless questions about deck staining and prepping, and my goal is to simplify the process by addressing the most common inquiries with straightforward answers. Whether you’re a homeowner looking to stain your deck for the first time or a contractor seeking professional advice, this page will help guide you to the information you’re looking for.
Do You Need More Help?: Do you want personalized help and cannot find the answer in our Deck Staining Facts? Just ask me below in our comment area, and I’ll be glad to help. I may make your question part of our permanent Deck Stain Facts Q&A section!
Calling all Deck and Wood Contractors: If you are a Wood and or Deck Restoration Contractor and are interested in becoming a contributor to this page with a Q&A, please email me your exterior wood or deck-related question and answer to contributors@deckstainhelp.com. *Any other inquiries to this email address will not be answered.
If approved, we will provide a link to your website on your Q&A page with a summary of you and your business!
Search Deck Staining Questions
Use our search to find deck staining and prepping questions.
Wood & Deck Staining & Cleaning Facts
All Deck Stains Reviewed by Scott Paul
How to Choose a Deck Stain – Expert Tips
Deck Stain Facts: Videos, Questions & Answers
How Long Do Wood Decks Last?
What Deck Stain Lasts the Longest? question
Varnish vs Deck Stain: Which is Best for Decks?
Why is My Deck Stain Not Beading Water?
How To Remove a Solid Color Deck Stain or Paint
The Best Way to Apply & Reapply Solid Color Deck Stain
Will a Clear Sealer Prevent Graying on Deck?
Can Deck Stain be Painted Over?
How to Stain Pressure-Treated Wood
Hello
Have a question on removing Valspar Clear water base. What would be best application for removing it? The clear stain turned yellowish. Put down in June of 2025.
Thanks in Advance
Adam
Add some pics, please.
Here are some pictures
It will be easier to remove in the Spring. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener kit with both additives:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Two months after staining #2 pine using clear natural finish it looks great but I see something coming through that may be fungi or something. What to do? See attached photo.
That is sap leaking out of your wood—nothing you can do to stop it outside of replacing that board.
I need to seal some rough sawn cedar posts and shutters on a home exterior that I installed a year ago. Some of it was fading from sun exposure with some gray weathered areas so I used a brightener on it. The brightener acted more like a bleach and it is now lighter colored than it was when faded and the natural color variations are now gone… is there any way to bring back the natural color variations?
You need to use a cleaner first and then a brighener. A brightener alone does not prep wood.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-package-300/
Once stained, the color will be restored.
Thank you Scott. So what brand of cleaner (and no brightener since I already did that)? What stain is best to bring out the natural color variations of the western red Cedar (rough sawn). I believe I will need to use a semi-transparent with some color in it since it’s so faded… The goal is for it to look like new – before sun damage. There is also an area of porch ceiling T&G cedar that still looks new. Is a clear stain or sealer best for that?, and how should I go about cleaning it first for dirt & dust removal
You will need to redo the brightener, as it is necessary to use it after the cleaner to restore the wood’s pH balance. Use the same prep for the ceiling.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-package-300/
Look at the Restore A Deck in Natural for both areas.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-semi-transparent-wood-stain-1-gallon/
What size brush should I use to stain deck surrounding pool. I think 4invh is too bulky for me and do I ne d a paint tray to keep semi transparent stain mixed
See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-applicators-for-deck-stains/
Hi,
I have used the information on your site to tackle staining a deck that is half old, unknown stain and have untreated pressure treated wood that’s 3 years old. We live in Vermont and I decided to use Restore A Deck because our drying windows are not dependable. With these products, I stripped the old stain from half the deck, cleaned the other half, brightened the whole thing, and rinsed throughly with a power washer. I damaged the wood a bit and had to sand off the white furiness (that’s not even a word 😀). I handed sanded the deck with a pole using 50 grit, finishing with 80. I used a belt sander on top of the rails. Then used semitransparent cedar for stain.
Now I have to figure out how to address the cedar deck and stairs that have Penofin Penetrating Oil Finish on them. The deck was not cleaned and brightened before applying. Our goal was to just preserve the cedar deck. We didn’t realize that a sealer would turn the cedar gray without UV protection. The application was not done uniformly and the deck looks terrible. When it rains heavily we get clay runoff from the bank and it does not rinse off.
I do not really mind the cedar graying, as that is what it naturally does. However, I want the deck to look better with the least amount of maintenance, since we have so much deck and it’s such a prominent part of our camp.
Is a semitransparent stain the best option for maintenance?
If so, I am not inclined to use the cedar color on the deck surrounding the camp, because I’m not crazy about the color. However, once the appropriate prep work is done for a switch to semitransparent stain, maintaining a different color from the lower deck should not be difficult, correct?
If I go to semitransparent, would I do the stripping and brightening to clear the sealer that’s on there now?
Here are pictures of the deck I stained and the deck that needs work. Thanks for your advice.
No matter what, you should strip and brighten for prep to remove the old Penofin. It is an easy strip. As for the coating, yes a semi-transparent stain would be best for this:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Do I need to wait for the weather to be optimal for all 3 steps to be taken without rain? Is it possible to strip and brighten and then leave the deck exposed to weather? Is this possible if I clean and/or brighten just before staining? If the deck can be exposed to rain between steps, is there a time limit for it to be left before the final stain step is taken?
You strip and brighen for prep and then stain within 2 weeks of the prep. Rain in between does not harm anything.
I stained the deck in the picture on September 16th. I only had enough stain for a light second coat on the deck. I think the old part of the deck could use a light third coat. Can I do that directly over the current stain when I receive more, or do I need to clean and brighten first?
Thanks for your continued support with taking the time to answer my questions!
You cannot just keep adding coats, as over-applying leads to premature stain failure.
Leave it alone for now. If you want, you can clean it and lightly recoat it next year.
I used “EZ Strip” to strip the multiple coats of unknown type of paint off an older cedar deck (painted the stripper on, dwell time, then pressure washed it off). The instructions said to remove it with water and to “neutralize it with water”. So to remove any residual solvent, I then pressure washed each board, until the water ran clear from that board. However, I noticed that if I ran the pressure washer over that same board a couple of minutes later, more solvent appeared and so I would again pressure wash that board until the water ran clear. Unfortunately, the solvent continues to appear when I respray the boards. So I’m not sure what to do next? Do I need to used a wood cleaner / brightener to somehow neutralize that solvent? Or just keep pressure washing? I’m worried if there is residual stripper remaining in that old porous wood, my stain won’t penetrate properly. Thanks!
FYI: I’m from Canada (British Columbia), my deck is beside a fast flowing creek, and is full sun for a couple hours a day, but otherwise mostly shade.
I would not worry about it. Just rinse when done stripping.
I have a deck at the house that’s in the sun most of the day, I used a semi transparent stain/ sealer from Pittsburg Paint but it only lasted a year before fading away, I also have a deck at the pool that the same thing happened and it gets pool water with chemicals on it,any suggestions on redoing these 2 and what to use. Thank you
Add some pics in comments, please.
Sorry about the pictures,it’s raining here right now. If you need ones when it dries I can send them once it dries up. Thank you
Scott this is the stain/ sealer I used
Dry pics when you can. This product can be challenging to remove as it is a filming acrylic stain.
I will get some dry picture sent to you
Scott here are 2 pics of the deck thats dry now,the pool deck looks the same
For prep, you will need to remove the old stain fully. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener kits with both additives:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
For stain, try TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains. Unfortunately, no stain will be immune to chlorine from pool water.
Thank you very much
Do you know anything about the product: Liquid Rubber, for a pool deck, it says it’s good for 10 years?
No, never heard of it. BTW, nothing will last 10 years on a deck. Marketing gimmick.
Oil or water based stains for pressure treated wood.
Either as long as they are fully penetrating:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
5 year old PT pine deck, never stained. It is about 20 yards from our lake. Have you had anyone have aquatic animal/fish problems after using restore a deck? TWP tech did say the cleaner/brightener is “harmful to aquatic animal”, according to the specs. I can’t believe the small amount that might be washed into the water would be enough to hurt anything. My family does not want to use it, but will use a dilute bleach, with sanding. I’ve read that bleach isn’t good to use, and it can do the same to the fish. Comments?
The RAD Cleaner and Brightener should not harm any fish in the water.
2 year old deck, pine. Eastern NC. Was told to wait until following spring to stain. Original staining job was done by a local contractor using Ready Seal Exterior Wood Stain, Pecan. Dried streaky and uneven. Wore quickly and unevenly. Would like to go darker next go around.
Can you confirm what Restore A Deck products to use?
Should I wait until Spring? We’ll be only averaging highs in the 50s soon.
THANKS!
Eric
Strip and brighten for prep. No need for the RAD Stripper Additives. Stain with the RAD semi-transparent stain after the prep. Spring is good.
I have a brand new deck. What do I do next? When do I stain? What stain is best? Thanks for your help!
See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Sorry, I meant to say the brightener was Sherwin Williams Super Deck “Revive”. (In my comment posted 15 minutes ago)
I already cleaned and brightened our deck using Sherwin Williams cleaner (SuperDeck Stain & Sealer Remover) and brightener (SuperDeck Stain & Sealer Remover). I used a pressure washer to rinse these products. I was now going to sand using 60-80 grit orbital sander, however, in reading your website it seems I should have sanded before the brightener. I really would rather not have to repeat the brightener step after sanding. Is it possible to just lightly sand any visible splinters/loose shards and move directly to staining? I was going to use either TWP semitransparent or Armstrong-Clark semitransparent. Previous product was Sherwin Williams semitransparent Super Deck. It’s an older deck (~7 yrs), pressure treated wood. Thanks so much for this website and your help!
If you power sand, you will need to redo the brightener step. Light hand sand and you should be okay.
My parents have installed beadboard ceilings on their porches. They are wanting it to stay the natural wood color. Should these be sealed with a clear sealer or just leave it as it is since it will not be directly exposed to rain or sun?
Clear sealer like TWP in the 1500 Clear.
Just spent 2 solid days sanding a 10 year old generic pressure treated lumber deck, and power washing after replacing a few rotted board sections. I let it sit a 2-3 years to make sure I could get all the pigmented “stain” off that I purchased at a big box store. I told my wife, “Never again” will I “stain” a deck with that pigmented crap that just peels up every few years. My deck is about 10-11 years old, (720 sq. ft.), hoping to get another 10 out if it. Don’t want to spend a fortune, as it may only last another 10 years (if that). What would you recommend for an “oil” stain with slight pigmentation. I was think about Penofin, but they recommend resealing quite often. Thanks
Kris
Livonia, NY
Penofin has issues turning black. Look at TWP 1500 Series or Restore a Deck Stains.
3 or 4 years ago (cant remember) I used the Restore-A-Deck cleaner and brighter on my 2-yr old unstained treated pine deck, then applied 2 coats of TWP 1500. Now it appears to not have any water repellant properties. It’s in full sun about 60% of day. Want to reorder TWP 1500. Was going to power wash. Should I use a cleaner or stripper product beforehand, or will TWP over TWP be ok to not strip? Also, is the 3-4 year timeline typical for needing retreatment for TWP?
Yes, you have to redo every few years. Strip and brighten for prep.
Also, we want the solid stain to match the trim on the house which is sw pure white. Can I get a solid stain that you recommend in that color ?
See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
Use RAD Solid Stains in White and the TWP 100 or 1500 Series.
A 6 month old deck and railing made from pressure treated pine. We want to do a 2 tone deck and railing. What solid stain would you recommend for the railing?
Also, we are struggling between Twp 100 and Woodrich oil for floors. Recommendations?
Thank you
Kdonehoo
I’m wondering what should be the next step for my deck and what type of wood I have? (Pressure treated?)
I pressure washed with a 1600 psi sprayer as well as sanded some of the deck. The pressure washed section stayed grey while the sanded section turned a yellowish color.
Should I sand the rest of the deck and then I’m thinking of applying an Armstrong stain? I used a 40 grit sander which felt smooth when I ran my hand across it, do I need to go higher grit?
What should be the criteria to selecting the color?
Can I put anything from a transparent to a semi solid on this deck?
I like the appeal of the darker semi solid colors for more UV protection as well as greater concealment of imperfections but as the deck gets quite a bit of sun, the semi solid darker colors may get too hot?
To get it even it would be best to sand it all with the 40 grit. When done, brighten all wood and give it a good pressure wash rinse. The AC semi-solid will give the best UV protection in the AC brand.
Hello again..meant to mention I have been using Defy products on my PT deck over the past 5 years per your recommendation. Pleased with results. Anne
Hi Scott. Just had an outdoor table top made using Cypress lumber. What, if anything, would you recommend to seal/finish it. Prefer natural look. Many thanks. Anne
Using the Defy Extreme would work very well.
Thank you, that’s what I was wondering. So then it’s Probably going to be a “TWP” product. Which series would you recommend? Or do you have another brand that you would recommend? I’m ready to go out and buy and get going on this deck. Thank so much for your quick response! This is an EXCELLENT web site!
Where do you live? That may determine what you can use.
North East Ohio, would you be interested in coming down here and doing a deck? 😎
You cannot afford me 🙂
I have to agree with everybody! This site is Outstanding! My question is, I’m about ready to stain some existing and new wood portions of the deck that goes around my house. I like the things you have said about the “TWP” products (solid colors, oil type), what do you think of “One Step” besides the crazy price? I used it once on an old dock, seem to be holding up, but I’m open to trying a different product, such as the”TWP”. What are your thoughts?
Do you mean One Time? Over priced and not that good. It can also have issues with curing properly.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/one-time-wood-deck-stain-review/
This site is amazing and wished I had done the level of research provided by this site before I applied Thompson weather seal to my full sun deck. Totally failed after just one year and I had to remove it using Restore-A-Deck stripper and brightener. In any case, living in Canada, I see you outlined 4 products: Restore-A-Deck, TWP 200, Armstrong, and Defy. The deck get full sun the entire day. Which product would you recommend in my case?
Also, I don’t think you have reviewed decking oils. One in particular is Thinking the Bangkirai Natural Shade color. Totally understandable if you don’t have an opinion on this product but what do you think about decking oils vs stains in general? Especially given my full sun exposure. This product claims to have have UV protection “Ultimate protection for exterior wood with factor 12 UV filters to protect against the greying effects of UV damage.”
Also, should I shove the snow off during the winter?
Thanks
Try the TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains. No need to remove snow. Never heard of the other brand.
I so appreciate your response. Just wondering, if I opt not to use the semi-solid stain, which of the other TWP stains would be next best? I can’t decide if I want the solid stain look. I don’t want to go against your recommendation, but I would still like options. Thanks again!
TWP 1500 Series.
Thank you for your additional information. You have been so very helpful.
Hi!
I have an 8 year old construction heart redwood deck that was last stained in 2019 with Messmer’s Natural UV Plus Transparent stain. I know that Messmer’s is manufactured in Utah so I thought it would work well for me, although I’m not so sure I couldn’t find something better. It has held up fairly well, but I want something that might do a little better in my harsh Utah environment, cold snowy winters and hot dry summers. The deck is on the north side of my home so it has both sun and shade exposure. I have had no issues with mold. The deck itself is in good condition, although I should have re-stained last year.
I am thinking that TWP might be a good stain for the deck, but I’m not sure if the 100 series or the 1500 series? I’m thinking a water-based stain would not hold up as well, am I correct? Which stain would be the best for my area?
I realize I will need to strip/clean my deck, what recommendations do you have for products to do that?
My deck is around 400 sq ft with 3 steps skirting the deck on 2 sides. How much stain and cleaner would you recommend? With the Messmer’s, 4 years ago I used 2 gal. I’m not sure how the deck will absorb stain this go around.
I’m so glad there is a forum like this. It is so very helpful for rookies.
Thank you so much.
Strip and brighten for prep using Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. One kit should be enough. Look at the TWP semi-solid colors for your best option of staining. About 3-4 gallons.
Thank you for your response. I am confused by the difference of a semi-solid and semi-transparent stain, the semi-solid seems like it would be more like paint, which I don’t want. I would like the deck to be more natural. Would the semi-solid provide that effect? Thanks again!
Semi-solid colors have more opacity than a semi-transparent stain but still show the wood grain. They do not fully make the wood like a solid color deck stain or paint.
Hello,
What is the best stain, preferably not a solid color, for a floating dock?
Also, what is the best prep method for a 2 year old dock where there is no access to power or water (ie pressure washer/hose) except for the water from the lake?
Thank you and God Bless!
If you have a sprinkler pump from the lake, hook up your pressure washer there. Use a deck cleaner and wood brightener for prep. Use Restore A Deck Prep products and their semi-transparent stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
Thank you Scott! I have not looked into this stain. The recommendations I had received so far were solid stain from Cabot. Sherman Williams Deck stain, which utterly failed with flaking on my back deck, and TWP 100, 200, or 1,500 series. I’ve been over with options to say the least! I do not have a sprinkler pump but can research one.
I was told by the dock builder that Cabot Natural was applied to the walkway when installed. But they cannot confirm their crew applied it to the dock itself. Do I need to use a product in addition to what you listed above? I’ll attach pictures. Thank you again and God Bless!
TWP stains would also be a top choice. Just use a cleaner and brightener for the dock. No need to strip it as there is not any stain on it.
That is awesome! I am amazed by the help I’ve re here!
If I may, I’d like to lean on your experience, and yes opinion, and ask what color from either brand would you think would look good with the black railing of the dock? I know this is subjective, but I also don’t have an eye for this and know that you have done over 10k docks! So I very much value you opinion! Thank you so much Sir. As a wounded Vet, I salute you and this outstanding customer service! God Bless!
Maybe Light Walnut or Dark Walnut in the Restore A Deck stain or in TWP, Dark Oak or Pecan colors.
Hi Scott,
I stripped my deck with Restore a Deck stripper. I washed the stripper with a high pressure hose. The deck looked okay but railing was pretty bad. We tried stripping all again per their recommendation, then we sanded with 60 grit orbital sander and tried pressure washing. The sealer on it was a penetrating one that was not effective. The power washing damaged the wood, the deck seems okay but railings not looking good. Should we sand again in areas that have sealer and are damaged ? Brighten… not sure how to deal with it. Thank you!
Did you use the R-A-D Stripper with the Booster and the Thickening Gel? That would help. Also, you could try some of the RAD PaintStrip on those railings. Brighten when done.
I just used the regular Stripper, not the paint stripper. So I have to strip with paint stripper again just the railings? Will that damage the deck when it drips?. Can I sand the flat and damaged areas to even out the texture where power strip blew out the wood? Does the deck itself look good for brightening? Thanks Scott…
Strip the rails to get the old coating off. it should not harm the wood below but brighen all wood when done for an even appearance. Hard to fix when you over-pressure washed and made grooves. You would have to heavy power sand to get those out.
Yesterday, I used Restore a deck stripper and Restore a deck brightener on my gate and porch post. Clear vertical grain cedar. installed 15 years ago and last stained with Penofin semitransparent oil based 10 years ago. Followed all Restore a deck instructions carefully. Used a pressure washer. The porch post turned out great but the gate has black blotches and is unsatisfactory. What is your recommendation? One photo from this morning after dry time and the other two were after completing the brightener yesterday and still wet.
It is one of two things.
-You did not entirely strip off the old stain. Did the old stain darken or turn black? Penofin has a tendency to do that. The darkening could be remnants of the old stain.
-The other option is you did not brighten long enough to neutralize and lighten the wood internally.
It looks more like the second option but you can tell by looking at the wood carefully and seeing if the darkening is internal or on the surface.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-use-a-wood-deck-brightener/
We have had darkening on all projects where we used Penofin and have stopped using it. I attached a photo that shows our 2nd porch post- which we did not strip yesterday- to show how dark the wood was at the time we started both on the post and the gate- the gate looked the same darkness as the post we haven’t done yet. Is restore a deck the best stripper option? We do have more of that left. Also, we let the brightener sit for 30 minutes. How long is better for more brightening?
Penofin is very easy to strip. The RAD Stripper will take it off. It is possible that you over stripped and the wood internally darkened more than normal. Try saturating with the brightener and then leave it on and do not rinse it off letting it dry into the wood overnight.
Our 1-2 year old pressure treated wood deck was sealed/stained last year with Olympic waterguard transparentwood stain and sealer. The wood looks dry and we want to re-apply more stain/seal for deck maintenance. The deck itself is a little rough but not uneven. Do we need to pressure wash, sand, and then stain/re-seal? or can we just wash the deck, allow it to dry and re-seal? Ie: can we basically just layer a new stain and seal or does the entire deck need to be sanded down?
Whenever you switch brands of semi-transparent stains, you need to remove the old coating first. You will need to strip and brighten for prep and possibly sand. We would need pictures posted for proper help with prep.
Thank you: for further reference, this is a full time exposed roof deck in Washington DC where we have both extremes of temperature.
What if we were to use the same brand? Would you not recommend that because of the quality of the product? Here are some photos of our deck.
If you use the same brand and color, then use a deck cleaner followed by a wood brightener. The prep is the same difficulty as stripping/brightening.
What would be the best stain to use?
Deck location: South central Texas
Sun/shade 90% sun 10% shade
Wood type: treated wood
Mold/mildew: no
Will be staining a new fence and pier (4 years old)
Also, what do I use to prep the pier, it’s been grey for a while.
Thank you!
Prep with a cleaner and then a brightener. Use Restore A Deck Kits for this.
Stain with a semi-transparent penetrating stain like the Restore A Deck Stains or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Awesome thank you! Realistically what kind of dry time am I looking at? We have high humidity & can have some really damp dewy mornings and also random rain showers. Does the wood need 2 weeks between days like that before I stain?
Varies based on the stain brand you choose. Restore A Deck Stains are the easiest as you can prep and stain the same day as the stain can be applied to damp wood.
Whats the rule on how long the wood needs to be dry? We are in a pretty high humidity area and have random rain showers or super dewy/damp mornings. How long does my ages wood need to be “dry” before staining?
What would be the best stain to use?
Deck location: California
Sun/shade 70% sun 30% shade
Wood type: redwood
Mold/mildew: no
Last stain: showed wear in traffic areas even though traffic is minimal
Stain: Olympic Maximum semi-transparent black walnut
Thank you!
Remove all the Olympic first and then try TWP 1500 Series stain or Restore A Deck Stains.
So I bought a home with existing deck approx 20 yrs old with 2×6 cedar that’s rotted in various locations. Ive been replacing bad boards with treated 2×6 over past several years and applying PPG Timeless semi transparent/ semi solid water base which in some areas is going over new wood and majority over old which has several coats of who knows. This summer I replaced another 20 deck boards and all the rotted 2×2 balusters on railing that I’m replacing with hog wire. I bought RAD stripper with additives but some of the older stain looks solid which I read it will not remove so I may have to go back to solid. I want to use AC oil but if I can’t remove all of the old stain which I believe is latex will it adhere? I’d like to avoid sanding. Also the deck has new green stripes everywhere and I read stripper will make them fuzzy? I’m thinking I’ll complete the rail system for safety and wait till spring to strip, brighten and stain the deck so the treated has time to weather. Will the stripper solution remain active for 6 months or should I make a smaller quantity? Sorry this sounds so convoluted. Thankyou
Post pics.
The decking is stripping nicely but I can’t remove baluster marks and I’ve noticed flexible strings of what appears to be paint on some of the railing. Thanks
Okay Scott I’ve read enough that I’ll use a solid on the areas that won’t strip and go with semi transparent oil on decking. I’ll make sure whatever solid is left on has good adhesion after sanding. Maybe a two tone. Thanks again
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
One more thing I keep reading is semi solid and semi transparent. What’s the difference?
Opacity. Less grain shows with a semi-solid.
Hi Scott, how much time can elapse between brightening and staining ? Also how long after applying ac semi transparent is it rain proof and frost proof? Thanks so much for your informative site
Stain within two weeks of prep for best results. 6-24 hours after applying.
Thank you. Also, what is the shelf life of open packages of cleaner and Brightner? Thanks again.
Depends if mixed with water or not. In powder form, they last many years if stored correctly.
In early March of this year, we added a lower level PTP deck to the house we purchased 2 years ago (on a lake in N. Georgia. The house is only 5 years old). The top deck already has white balusters and we just can’t remove and update. I’ve established (through your articles) the prep process and that we’ll use semi-transparent TWC or Armstrong Clark. My question involves color: do you (or do you have have anyone) who will help with color ideas? We need to tie in the white (I think). Our son (who does advertising in NYC and has the technology) mocked up one idea (also included in pics).
1. How do we “stain” white? Or does this have to be paint?
2. We need to do the actual deck floor area in a brown or cedar color, I think, because we have too much gray (hot tub will not be moved to stain)
3. Should top handrail be the same as the floor?
4. Thinking we need dark gray for all the underneath area to help it all “disappear” (we’ll plant in front of the underneath area later).
Adding pics of the deck and one that was colorized. It is NOT currently stained or painted!) Any help is greatly appreciated!!
You have a two-toned deck. See here for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
Keep all verticals white with a solid stain, try Restore A Deck. Use a brown semi-transparent color for the floors. Try TWP in Dark Oak or Restore A Deck in Dark Walnut.
No need to stain the undersides outside of aesthetic reasons.
Thank you. One more question: Should we use oil based? I’m guessing yes, but thought I’d ask. TWP 100 will penetrate better than 1500, correct? (I’m aware Georgia doesn’t have a VOC law; we used TWP in our last house) OR, is water based better here?
OK, 2 more questions: We are going to stain the sports and underneath. A 3rd color (charcoal?) would look ok, in your opinion, correct?
Both TWP 100 and 1500 are oil-based. Water-based and oil-based will work equally well as long as you are using a high-end penetrating wood stain.
Color choices would be up to you. We do not like to offer advice on this as everyone has different tastes.
I am building a home in South West Colorado with a lot of exterior timbers. The timbers are rough sawed fir. The fir is clean and new. What would be the best exterior semitransparent wood stain for this project. Most of the timbers are under roof and partially protected. So all of this is vertical wood, no decks.
Thanks for your help. This area gets a lot of snow in the winter.
TWP 1500 Series or Restore A Deck Semi-transparent stain.
From reading on the website it appears one needs to wait at least 3 months before applying these stains to new wood, is this your view as well? It seems that I remember a comment that TWP may not be a good product for new wood? What are your thoughts about using TWP 1500 series on new wood?
Thanks so much for taking time to answer these questions.
Stan
Yes, you have to wait and prep all deck stain brands before applying them to new wood unless rough san cut like yours. If your wood is a rough cut, then you can use the TWP now.
Is the RESTORE A DECK semitransparent ok to put on now with rough sawn fir or do I need to wait. ?
Stan
You can put it on now.
Thanks so much. Your website and you are awesome. This has been a big help. Have a great day.
Stan
Welcome!
I tried staining our deck and it didn’t come out like we wanted at all. I’ve tried using Valspur Wood Stripper to remove the stain and it doesn’t seem to be doing the job. Any suggestions? Thanks.
What stain brand and type did you use?
Behr semi transparent
It was behr semi-transparent
You will probably have to sand it off to get it all off. Behr is not easy to strip, especially when just applied.
Howlong can u wait to stain a deck after prepping
Try to stain within a couple of weeks of prep.
Can composite (TREX) deck be stained to different color? and should I use oil or water based? How many gallons to cover 16X32?
Post some pictures.
Hello Paul,
Just installed a new deck and screen room in May 2022 with #1 grade pine in Raleigh NC. In reading will wait 4 months before staining.
Question is for my location, what is best stain to use? semi transparent vs semisolid?
Location of deck has very shady location and will not have tremendous traffic on it.
Thank you for your assistance.
Jerry
We like semi-transparent penetrating stains best: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Thanks
For pressure treated lumber do you have to stain a deck after stripping it and using brightener and can you leave it natural or does the whole stripping process destroy the treated chemical?
Stripping does not harm the internal treated chemicals of pressure-treated wood. You should always stain after prep to protect for UV graying, water damage, mildew, etc.
Does restore a deck fill in the wood where cracked
No. Deck stains do not fill cracks in the wood.