This post was updated on April 5, 2026
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior wood cleaning. My Restore-A-Deck Kit review is based on my history as a wood restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing, all designed to present you with the top deck stain choices. See here for more info about me.
Restore-A-Deck Cleaner Kit Update 2026
Restore-A-Deck Cleaner Kit
The Restore-A-Deck Cleaner Kit remains our top performer for the 2026 deck season. It is easy to work with, very cost-effective, and produces great results! Please read this article and post any questions you have in the comment area below. Our newly enhanced website now allows you to upload and post pictures of your exterior wood or deck. This will help us determine the proper prep for your deck using the Restore-A-Deck Cleaner and Wood Brightener Kits.
Below is a YouTube Video Review of the Restore A Deck Prepping kit. This is from an actual consumer and is very informative and helpful.
9.0 Overall Rating Restore-A-Deck Stain Cleaner & Brightener
The Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System is a two-step wood cleaning and brightening kit designed to properly prepare exterior wood before staining. It uses a powdered concentrate formula that is mixed with water, making it both cost-effective and easy to store.
From my experience restoring decks since 1993, proper prep is the most important step in any deck staining project. A system like Restore-A-Deck is designed to remove dirt, grime, and old stain residue while restoring the wood’s natural color and pH balance.
Overall, Restore-A-Deck is one of the better-performing cleaning systems available and is a key step in achieving long-lasting stain results.
Restore-A-Deck is the only product on the market that offers both a Step 1 Deck Cleaner and a Step 2 Deck Brightener in the same kit. Restore-A-Deck comes in a powdered concentrated formula. Each 2 lb container makes 5 liquid gallons. Pour each into a five-gallon container and add water to dissolve the powder concentrate.
🔹 Quick Verdict – Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System
Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System – Quick Review
- Best For: Proper deck prep before staining
- Not Ideal For: Skipping steps or light maintenance cleaning only
- Type: Powdered cleaner and brightener system
- My Overall Rating: 9/10
My Take:
Restore-A-Deck is one of the most effective and consistent deck cleaning systems I have used. It does an excellent job of preparing wood for staining when used correctly.
How I Rated Restore-A-Deck Cleaner Kit
My Restore-A-Deck Cleaner Kit review contains a 5-step process and the final average score. Each step is on a scale of 1-10.
- Removal of Graying and Dirt
- Cost Per Square Foot
- Removal of Old Stain (if applicable)
- Ease of Application
- Final Appearance after Cleaning
- Restore-A-Deck Cleaner Kit Final Score
5-Step Review of Restore-A-Deck Cleaner Kit
1. Removal of Graying, Dirt, Grime: 9
The Restore-A-Deck Step 1 Deck Cleaner did very well at removing general dirt and grime. The deep cleaning formula made breaking down the gray wood cells easy. All mold was also removed. The Step 1 Deck Cleaner did not remove some rust stains from the furniture, but the Step 2 Brightener did.
2. Cost Per Square Foot: 10
The best on the market today. The cost to clean and brighten an average 600-square-foot deck is less than $.07 a foot. Since Restore-A-Deck comes in a powder we like, you only need to mix as much as you need. Very little waste.
3. Removal of Old Stain: N/A
RAD products are designed to clean, not remove, old deck stains. We would presume that they would remove a deck stain if it has deteriorated drastically.
4. Ease of Application: 8
RAD does not come in a liquid. You need to measure 6 oz per gallon of water and mix the entire 2 lb. container into 5 gallons. This product can be applied easily to a garden pump sprayer. We needed to make sure to mix at the correct dosage; otherwise, the powder would not completely dissolve. Testing was done with both scrubbing and pressure washing. Both worked well. Step 2 brightener does not need to be scrubbed, just rinsed with water after 10 minutes.
5. Final Appearance of Cleaning: 9
The IPE wood deck looked brand new after cleaning and drying for 2 days. We would have given this a score of 10 if it was not for a couple of minor water spots that did not come out. These spots looked to be from planter boxes.
Overall Score for Restore-A-Deck Cleaner: 9
Restore-A-Deck is a great and economical product for restoring your deck to like-new condition. We really like that the kits contained both the cleaner and brightener. This was easier than buying the products separately.
Product Information:
Manufacturer: Restore A Deck
Product Type: Powdered Concentrate. Kit contains Step 1 Deck Cleaner and Step 2 Deck Brightener.
Available Sizes: 2 Pound Container Makes 5 Liquid Gallons
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coverage Per Gallon: 100-200 sq. ft
Application Tools: Scrub Brush, Pump Sprayer
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: IPE Exotic Hardwood
Deck Square Footage: 500
The condition of the Deck: Heavily grayed with mold/mildew. No previous stain
How Much Product Used:Â RAD 300 Kit. Retails for $64.99
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Consider that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
🔹 Pros and Cons – Restore-A-Deck Cleaner & Brightener
Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System – Pros
- Highly effective at removing dirt, grime, and old stain residue
- Brightens wood and restores natural color
- Powdered concentrate makes it cost-effective
- Easy to mix and apply
- Works well on most exterior wood types
Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System – Cons
- Requires proper mixing and application steps
- Must follow with brightener for best results
- Not a one-step process
- Can damage surrounding areas if not properly rinsed
🔹 Best Uses for Restore-A-Deck Cleaner & Brightener
- Prepping wood before staining: Essential step for best results
- Removing graying and weathering: Restores wood appearance
- Cleaning older decks: Prepares surface for new stain
- Stripping light residue from previous coatings: Helps improve absorption
Not Ideal For:
- Skipping prep before staining – this is not optional for best results
- Heavy paint or solid stain removal – may require a stronger stripper
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔹 Application Tips – Restore-A-Deck Cleaner & Brightener
- Always mix according to instructions
- Apply evenly to damp wood
- Allow proper dwell time for cleaning
- Rinse thoroughly and follow with brightener
👉 How to Prep a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
👉 How to Stain a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-stain-a-deck/
🔹 Maintenance & Prep Importance
Proper prep is the foundation of any successful deck staining project.
- Always clean and brighten before staining
- Do not skip the brightening step
- Allow wood to dry completely before applying stain
- Proper prep will improve stain penetration and longevity
From my experience, most stain failures are due to poor prep—not the stain itself.
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔹 Who Should Use Restore-A-Deck Cleaner?
You should consider Restore-A-Deck if:
- You are preparing a deck for staining
- Your wood is dirty, grayed, or weathered
- You want consistent and reliable prep results
- You are using a penetrating stain system
You may want to consider other options if:
- You need to remove heavy paint or solid coatings
- You are looking for a quick, one-step cleaning solution
👉 Best Deck Stains
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
🔹 FAQs – Restore-A-Deck Cleaner & Brightener
Do you need both cleaner and brightener?
Yes, both steps are required for proper wood prep and best staining results.
How long should you wait before staining after cleaning?
Typically 24–48 hours, depending on weather and drying conditions.
Can this remove old stain?
It can remove light residue but is not designed for heavy stripping.
Is it safe for all wood types?
Yes, when used properly according to instructions.
Can you skip the brightener step?
No, skipping this step can lead to poor stain absorption and uneven results.
How often should you clean a deck before staining?
Every time before applying a new coat of stain.
🔹 Final Thoughts – Restore-A-Deck Cleaner & Brightener
The Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System is one of the better deck prep systems available and plays a critical role in achieving long-lasting stain results. It is effective, cost-efficient, and works well across most wood types.
From my hands-on experience, proper cleaning and brightening is the most important step in any deck staining project. Using a system like this will greatly improve stain performance and longevity.
If you want your stain to perform the way it should, proper prep is not optional—it is required.
An Independent YouTube Customer Review
I just completed application of this kit. I have a mixed deck of mostly old pressure treated wood and some new wood that I replaced with kiln dried pressure treated wood. The new wood has been on the deck for 4 months. Overall, the kit did a very good job, but I have one issue. On the new wood only, it seems like there is still some pulp/fur that remains. It doesn't stand up or move in any way. Do I need to remove this before staining? If so, how?
Bob, the pulp is oxidized wood cells that did not come off completely. You can sand this off lightly or wash with a pressure washer (just water) to remove. It doe snot have to be removed as many times the stain will hide this.
Sorry for all the questions but I'm a first time homeowner that bought a home this year with an existing deck. The current deck is not in great shape. I have no idea if it was stained previously although there is no water beading on the surface when it rains. Do I use a cleaner or stripper? After I clean/strip and brighten, is it ok to sand the deck with 60 grit? What stain would be best for a southern Wisconsin climate?
Joel, if gray and dirty use a deck cleaner and wood brightener for the prep. Lightly sand only if needed. Use a stain such as TWP 100 Series or Defy Extreme for this deck in WI.
I have an old cedar deck (20 + years old) that is gray and has mold. The stain is virtually gone. Should I sand or just clean and brighten? Which product would be better in northern Arizona twp 100 or 1500 series?
Elaine, clean and brighten if that far gone. TWP 1500.
Matt:
Have a redwood deck that has been stained several times; the last time I used a product that really cracked the wood; I need advice on what to use to seal the cracks and restore the wood and in what order as I see you have mentioned never to use a stain over a sealer.
Thanx,
Dick in Arlington (Texas Rangers country )
Dick, crack fillers do not work on outside decking.
Would you recommend hard water (with at least calcium and iron) or softened water (from a salt based water softener that uses a salt made to reduce iron also) to mix the Restore-A-Deck step 1 cleaner and step 2 brightener? The rinsing step for each will be done with hard water. I'm wondering if the soft water will magnify, neutralize or reduce the effectiveness of either product. Thank you.
Donna, sorry but I have no idea if there will be any difference.
We have a 10 year old cedar deck that was last stained a little over 2 years ago. The stain we used last time had just a hint of brown/red tint (mostly a toner or semi-transparent) but I honestly can't remember what we used. We have some mold and mildew and some grayling in parts of the deck where it gets sun most of the day. I don't plan on staining for another month or two but would like to get it at least cleaned. Should I go ahead and use restore cleaner and brightener now? Should I then use a stripper when I am closer to staining (what stripper would you recommend)? Finally what stain should we use – we like the touch of color but just a touch. We live in the the St. Louis area so we can get both weather extremes. About half of our deck gets sun most of the day while part of it receives shade all day. Thanks for any tips and advice!!!
Angelica M, do not clean but strip than brighten for the prep sing the RAD products. Try TWP 100 Series for the stain in MO.
I think this was in an older post but couldnt seem to find it again.
I have a new Cedar pergola, now about 8 weeks old. I am looking at Armstrong Clark and Woodrich timber oil, available semi transparent color will be my deciding factor unless you can sway me one way or the other.
Also, if I get the RAD kit do I need to clean and brighten or just brighten? Thank You
Craig, the TimberOil will apply easier and penetrate better. The AC will old color longer. You should clean and brighten lightly.
Once mixed how long is RAD stripper active.
Our deck has a Cabot solid stain. I've cleaned the deck to reapply the same solid stain, but there are numerous spots where the stain has blistered and peeled. Do I need to strip the entire deck down to the bare wood, or can the problem areas be fixed somehow to adhere the new stain? What's the best process at this point?
Mike, you cannot strip a solid deck stain effectively. Might want to spot sand the trouble areas.
I cleaned and brightened deck with Restore A Deck over the weekend, then got unexpected rain the next day. If I have to wait a couple of weeks to stain, will I need to use brightener again? Thanks.
Debbie, no you will not need to re-brighten the wood.
Since it has to be redone every 2-3 yrs. what do you recommend overall for a (cleaner, stain/sealant).
Restore a Deck for the prepping and any of the higher rated stains.
Sealant-Product correction to my previous post: I have a 7 year old deck that was power washed in May 2010 the sealed with CWF UV-5 product. What I would like to do is an annual spring cleaning just to remove dirt, mold, pollen, and algae (etc.) without removing the previous sealant. I tried the home depot- mold armor (EZ deck & fence wash) but it did really do much for cleaning. What do you recommend for annual cleaning and how often should I power wash and reseal?
Dannette, most decks need to be redone every 2-3 years or sooner if using a poor stain brand. Try a cleaner like the Restore a Deck but you need to be careful as it has been 3 years and the CWF is probably deteriorated to the point where a deck cleaner will start to remove the stain.
DecStainHelp,
Question – I have a large Batu (similar to IPE) deck that was stained with Messmers UV Plus for Hardwoods Red Mahogany. It was last stained about a year ago. There are small areas of the deck that I will need to sand to get some nasty elastomeric roofing coating off (very small areas). For the entire deck, would you recommend just the deck cleaner and brightener or those and a quick sanding of everything? If sanding of everything (I was already planning on doing this) what order should I do it? – clean, brightener, sand, etc?
Mark, sand first then clean and brighten the wood.
Follow up question – the person that sanded/stained the deck last year stated you should not get the deck wet b/w sanding and staining as the stain would not take as good. Any truth behind this? Does the brightener make the stain take better…or was I given bad information?
Mark, no. He does not know what he is talking about.
We've never had mold before. Had it stained/sealed last year, then we had the house power washed. The guy also power washed the deck and I told him it was just stained, he said it wouldn't be an issue. However, 1 month later the mold appeared, so I was assuming that the power washing removed the seal. So now, I need to clean the mold off and that's why I was thinking it needed to be resealed. Based on that, would you still suggest not resealing….just cleaning or should I also reseal? Thanks for your help, this is all new to me.
Jen, seals do not stop mold so I highly doubt that the pressure washing caused the issue. I would clean correctly and reapply the stain/sealer only if needed. Hard to say on this as I am not sure what brand you used.
Hello – I have a question on a response you provided to another customer. You said that if mold is embedded in the stain then the cleaner won't get it out…it will only come out if it's on top of the stain. How do you tell if the mold is embedded or just on top of the stain? The mold I'm trying to get rid of has been on the deck for approx 1 year. If I just clean the deck (b/c the stain is still good)…how do I tell if all the mold is gone before I seal it? Also, what sealer would you recommend? We live in the south….so very hot/humid weather. Thanks!
Jen, it would look like the mold is under the stain coating. Hard to explain but should be noticeable. You will see all the black spots removed after the cleaning. You do not apply a sealer on top of a stain. It does not work that way.
Thanks for the quick response. I'm planning to strip my 3 yr old, peeling BEHR semi transparent oil based stain. So far it has resisted both the BEHR and JOMAX strippers. I would love to avoid sanding especially on the rails where the stain is still adhering well. Any suggestions for a product that will remove stain from both the rails and decking?
For re-staining, I am contemplating using either TWP 1500, Armstrong-Clark,or DEFY Extreme. Does any one of these products present an advantage? My goal for the future years is to have to clean and re-coat only and NOT have to strip again. My deck in located in Connecticut, mostly in direct sunlight, light algae growth in shaded area; constructed of PT lumber (pine?). I will be replacing a couple of decayed board sections but in general the 19 year old decking is in good shape. Thank you.
Do you recommend products outside of Armstrong Clark? How about Woodrich products? If go Amstrong Clark stain, what about Natural or Mahogany transparent?
Paul, we suggest many brands of deck stains. We like the Woodrich Timber Oil.
Massachusetts. Sun around 10 to 4 P.M. I have an 8 year old mahogany deck that has had Cabot Australian Timber Oil in Natural color. I want to use another oil based stain in a natural color. What do you recommend for stripper/brightener and natural transparent oil stain? Thank you.
Paul, Strip and brighten with the Restore A Deck products then Stain with Armstrong Clark in the Amber color.
Hi, I live in NY and have a cedar deck which was stained three years ago with sikkens three years ago. I would like to clean my deck this year and not restain. Can you suggest which cleaner/brightener would be best? Thanks very much. Anne
Anne, you can use the Restore A Deck Cleaner to remove dirt and such. It will not remove stain unless the stain is starting to fail already by peeling or wearing.
I got a quote for professional power-wash and sealant for my deck (too much $$$$) so I decided to research and DIY this project. There is way too much info out there and it has stymied my motivation to compete this project this weekend. I need to re-group and devise a better and more educated plan. LOL
I bought my home in Jan/13 and it has an 18 year old deck which was well maintained. I am going to tackle this cleaning and re-sealing myself. I do not know what product was used last year but I do know that i want to use a transparent (clear) sealer to show the wood grain. I thought I wanted solid but I realized that it requires some stripping, after time, as it begins to look bad.
The deck has a wood/grey look as it doesn't look as bad as some decks that I have seen online. What products should I use to clean and prep for sealer? Is the TWP an oil based product? and If so, whats the difference between oil and water based sealants?
Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated!
Gator, TWP is an oil based stain. You must have a tint in your stain/sealer if you want UV protection from graying. Prep first by removing all dirt, graying, and old sealer if still present on the deck. If you still have a sealer then you would need a stain stripper otherwise a deck cleaner would be enough. use a wood brightener when done.
Need recoat for the 3rd time. I need to reapply because horizontals look bad (probably because of our dogs) verticals still look great.
Do I need to pressure wash and use Restore a Deck or can I just use Restore a Deck?
History
Deck is 7-8 year old pressure treated pine. Waited a year and applied one coat of TWP Cedartone.
3 or 4 years laters we pressure washed and reapplied another coat.
Both times we did one coat.
JMP, use the RAD with a light pressure washing for the prep before applying the TWP.
I'm in Northern Virginia and have a 14 year old pine deck that gets full afternoon sun. We've been good about cleaning it and resealing every few years (using a professional). last summer I stripped it and sanded it myself before cleaning and brightening it. I then applied Sikkens Cetol SRD translucent/natural EXACTLY as defined in the instructions. It looked great last summer but now it is very dull and water doesn't bead anymore. I was planning to clean it again with RAD and restrain with Sikkens. That was before reading all the comments about TWP stain. Should I stick with the Sikkens or switch to TWP? I would like to avoid having to strip it again just one year later and, more importantly, I don't want to have to do this kind of maintenance EVERY spring.
Your suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Diana, Beading water is not important. You want the stain to be breathable and \”shed\” water. If you want to switch you should strip off the Sikkens for best results. Up to you.
I have a 10 year old covered deck. Some bare wood spots, but mostly covered well with gray paint. Presuming the RAD pretreatment, do you think I need to prime the deck even though the wood is 97% covered with paint? If so, can you recommend a primer and color paint brand combination? I am guessing oil-based would be the best for quality.
Thank you.
Richard, The RAd cleaner will remove the dirt and grime but will not remove the paint. No need for a primer. Just need a good quality solid color deck stain. We like the Flood Solid Stains.
This website is incredible. Thanks for all the write-ups. Question: I have a two-story Redwood deck built in July 12. Builder used what I'd consider a transparent or semi transparent stain. Some cracking and graying, but if it's only ~9 months old, do I need to clean AND brighten? Or would simple power wash suffice? FWIW I'm in Utah, so the deck had snow on it for weeks on end during winter sometimes…
Thanks Clint! If switching stains you should remove the old coating first with a stain stripper followed by a wood brightener. If using the same stain you could probably just clean and brighten.
Thank you! I'm leaning toward the TWP 1500. Follow-up question (and sorry if you've already answered this somewhere on the site). How long should I wait between stripping and re-staining? And is there a good month or time of the year to do it? (or to avoid doing it?). And how do I know if I have a Redwood or California Redwood deck? Again, thanks for all of your help. LOVE this site and your crazy fast responses.
Clint, Waiting is typically 2-3 days after the prepping before staining. Longer if it rains between. Wood needs to be dry before stain is applied. Does not matter on time. Just want temperature about 55 degrees. You must likely have a Redwood Deck. You can use any color you want on it.
Thanks!
I've got a wood deck that is about 40ft by 32ft with sides and rails all the way around it. It is built around 3 big live oak trees. It is about 3-4 years old and looks to have been stained (with what I'm not sure) when it was built but nothing done to maintain it since. It is still a very sturdy and good looking deck which is why I want to keep it that way. It is at the point where it needs a little TLC. You can see some mildew and graying around the deck from being under the trees. My thoughts were to pressure wash it to knock the mildew and funk off it and restain/seal it. My question to you is what is the best product to use. I've heard a little about some type of wood oil and also heard about behr's product but don't know enough to make a decision. I want something to shine it up and protect it that I don't have to redo every months. It is located in florida where its hot year round with afternoon showers. Thank you for your help
Matt M, It would be best to remove the old stain with a stripper before re-coating. If you do not then the new stain will probably fail earlier then normal. I would look at the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener for this.
I posted around October about which stain to use in the Sierra foothills on a new redwood railing with older cedar posts which were cleaned and sanded (you recommended Armstrong-Clark). You also suggested I wait till spring to apply it. I am now looking at cleaning (probably with Restore-A-Deck) and staining. It is a bit early, I know, but we have just had a week of very cold (and also very dry) weather, after a period of occaisionally very significant rainfall. There should be at least another 10 days of dry weather now, with warming; and the wood is looking quite dry with some small cracks developing. Can I clean and brighten the wood soon, and then if we get a few more days of dry weather, above 50 degrees F, can I stain it? There still will be some cooler wet weather in the next few months, but we could have a dry spell for several weeks, and some warm days, and I would like to get this done and protect the wood.
Thanks, Michael
Michael, that should be okay. The wood has weathered for 2-3 months. I would only apply 1 coat of the Armstrong.
Thanks. Why is it you only apply one coat of Armstrong? Does it have to do with penetration and the oils creating a barrier to further coats? If that is the case, I am guessing you want to make sure there is a good heavy coat the first time, so that as much as possible penetrates into the wood on the first go?
Michael
Michael, newer wood is not absorbent. Too much stain and it will not penetrate and may cause issues. Just 1 \”normal\” coat.
One other question: Restore-A-Deck does not seem to be available locally here, only through their web site; but Wolman's Deckbright is available locally. It seems you have rated that cleaner, but I found there is also a Wolman brightener, which I did not see listed on this site. Were you aware that there is a Wolman Deck and Fence Brightener, can these be used in two steps like RAD, and have you considered rating Wolman's Deckbright and their brightener as a two-step system like RAD? (You rated only Deckbright.) It would be much easier and less expensive for me to get the Wolman's.
Thanks, Michael
Michael, Wolman makes average products in our opinion and Restore-A-Deck is less expensive per sq. foot when it comes to total quantity made per kit and effectiveness. As a contractor, we would never use the Wolman cleaners. For your scenario (newer wood) then the Wolman might be okay. It would not hurt to contact Armstrong to see what they suggest.
I thought the rating on Wolman's you have on this web site was not all that bad. To bring you up to date, I was able to communicate with both Restore-A-Deck and Armstrong. Both indicated that they are working on an arrangment where Armstrong would market RAD through their California distributors. (RAD is not currently sold in any CA stores.) However, it sounds like this is not happening immediately, and there was some difference of opinon about when it would happen.
Armstrong is a small company, so I was able to talk with one of the principles, who was very helpful. He suggested I use an oxalic acid cleaner for my new wood, and though he suggested some brands, he did not seem attached to the brand in this case. He felt most formulations of cleaner with oxalic acid and surfacants would work for my application. I don't need to strip off old stain. He also suggested I re-clean and stain again with the same Armstrong stain next year, after which he felt the stain would be more durable. I thought this report might be of interest.
Thanks,
Michael
Michael, thanks for the info. Restore-A-Deck is a great product and very economical (why as contractors we like it) but you are correct, it is not available in all areas and mostly online. I would stick with the suggestions from the Armstrong manufacturer as they know their stain well. One thing, Oxalic is a wood brightener not a cleaner. You would want to start with a cleaner followed by the brightener.
We would love to see some pictures in the forum when done!
I have a 2 yr old Tigerwood deck. I had been oiling it yearly with the Penofin IPE oil as I thought that would help retain the rich orangey color but this year it is dark brown, almost a mahogany color and you can barely see the tiger striping. Can I just use the Messmer's or Restore A Deck cleaner to return it to its bright orangey color? Do I need to use the brightener also? And would you suggest one product over the other for this scenario?
Michelle, It would be best to strip all of the old Penofin off with a stain stripper followed by a wood brightener when prepping. This will return the wood to it\’s natural color. HD80 or Restore A Deck Stain Stripper will work well.
1yr old 2000sqft Pressure treated dock on Lake in central VA. Doing first staining, so untreated wood. Did the RAD, but the wood looks fuzzy. Is this ok? I did the cleaner with a deck broom w/ pretty stiff bristles (you put me in fear of my pressure washer!)–could definitely see crud coming up, and looks great wet, but fuzzy when dry. Brightener does not seem to change this. Ready to do TWP 100 Rustic Oak, but not sure if I should proceed or pressure wash to get the fuzzy look off.
Brent, when the wood is 1 year old and you clean you will remove a substantial amount of oxidized wood fibers that can cause the \”fuzzies\”. They typically do not show when stained. If worried then you can buff out the fuzzies with a pad.
I just stripped my old stain about 3 weeks ago off of my cedar deck (about 750 sq ft). I have the Restore-A-Deck cleaner and brightener. Should I use both or will the brightener be sufficient?
Hello, you mention that the cost of this stuff is less than .07 per sq ft. It seems that they have changed their prices, since it is now almost .13 per sq ft for 600 sq ft !!!
Ron, $40 (for small kit) divided by 600 comes to .06777 per foot.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the small kit is for 300 sq ft of coverage. The 600 ft kit costs 75.99.
Ron, The small kit (39.99) is called RAD300 but actually cleans 500-750 sq. feet. It says this in the technical info. It does sound a little confusing.
I bought the restore deck and concrete cleaner that is mentioned as the top cleaner. I even used it at a higher concentrate but the deck looks exactly where I started. This is a big hoax. Do not believe this product.
From Admin:
Joseph, you are referring to a different product and is not the one rated here. This is Restore-A-Deck Deck and Brightener kits that comes in a powder. You are referring to a concrete and deck cleaner made by Synta that is a completely different brand and product.
What kind of prep is needed to mask off vinyl siding, painted concrete block?
R Taylor, Restore-A-Deck does not harm vinyl or painted concrete block. When we apply it and just pre wet and rinse the surrounding areas.
I live in WA state and had a cedar deck built 2 years ago. I am getting ready to pressure wash it in preparation to stain/seal it. Lots of confusing information out there…Do I need to clean it with a cleaning compound or is pressure washing with water enough? Have you ever rated PermaChink deck stain?
The deck is two levels, getting sun and shade. We also get lots of rain and every year more snow.
Thanks!
cdhammer55, I would use a cleaner with the pressure washer. It will make it easier and less chance of damaging the wood. We have not testes Permachink yet. I would look at Armstrong Clark stain for your environment.
I live in MA 1300' elevation 320sqft tiger wood ( Brazilian koa ) deck full sun and long winters.
I started deck install late last fall 2/3, Installed remaining 1/3 in spring. Sanded all mill glaze off and applied Messmers UV plus prior to installing to framing, coating all sides. The finish weathered to a gray, color comes out when wet only. I still have two gallons of stain left. I was going to clean the deck with messmers part A then restain with the remaining Messmers. I have not purchased any cleaner yet. Would I need to strip before cleaning? Best cleaner for job? Is the remaining Messmers UV worth using again, or should I invest in different product? Messmers was recommended by the decking supplier.
Thank you,
Warren H
Warren H, Messmers is a decent stain and if you liked it then stay with it. If you want to switch I would suggest TWP 1500. Prep with a deck cleaner such as the Restore-A-Deck or EFC-38.
New pressure treated deck. Let it dry for about 6 weeks now and wanted to stain it. It gets sun almost all day and has dried very quickly. Was going to prep with the RAD and then stain with the TWP 1500. Do you feel that this would be the best process and products? How long should I wait between prep and stain, and is the prep necessary? Thanks for the input.
Andre, TWP suggests to wait 4-12 months before staining new wood. We agree as it just does not penetrate new wood very well. I would look at the Armstrong Clark stain after prepping with RAD.
Thanks! Do you recommend waiting a few months before staining new wood? I would prefer to get it done now while the weather is good.
Thanks,
It depends on the stain. Armstrong probably can be stain within a month and TimberOil almost right away after prepping.
Hi, I have a new cedar deck (aprox 700 sq ft) and was planning to use Cabot Australian Timber Oil. Having read some info on line I'm thinking this is not the way to go. Can you recommend a prep and stain for new cedar. It will be subjected to sunlight, rain and snow.
Thanks,
Pierre, The RAD system will prep the new wood properly. For newer wood we like the Armstrong Clark stain.
I just stripped my old stain about 3 weeks ago off of my cedar deck (about 750 sq ft). I have the Restore-A-Deck cleaner and brightener. Should I use both or will the brightener be sufficient?
Also, once the deck has been brightened, how long should I wait to stain it with the TWP 1500 stain I have?
ScottC, You can just brighten now. I would wait 48 hours after the brightening to apply the TWP.
Hi .. we have pine siding on our cottage and mold/mildew is developing. what should use to clean it? it is stained with Sikkens; the stain is wearing but not pealing. After cleaning, should we re-stain with Sikkens?
We have a new deck made with pressure treated wood (cedar toned). will the cleaner impact the deck if it drips on it?
We really appreciate your advice.
Connie, The Restore-A-Deck will not remove the Sikkens but it will help clean it. If the mold is imbedded in the stain then it may not come off. If on top of the stain then it should come off easily. It should not hurt the deck.
What is the best thing to use to prep a brand new pine deck?
The Restore-A-Deck cleaner and brightener would prep your new wood very easily.
Our 20 year old pressure treated deck has been sanded down to the bare wood. It might be between 2 weeks to a month before we stain it using twp 1500 oil based semi transparent stain. I was told I should seal the floor boards to prevent damage because the wood will be exposed anywhere up to a month. I always though you shouldn't seal before staining. The railings are about 10 months old, pt wood and we will be staining them first.
Lois, if waiting a month I would use a wood brightener and a light cleaning with water to prep. Never but a sealer on before a stain!
I currently have 4 year old Cabot semi-solid deck stain in chestnut brown and miss seeing the wood grain. I would like to see the wood grain again. What product would you recommend to strip the Cabot stain? Also, I am leaning toward TWP 100 or 1500 stain. Which would you recommend?
Paul, it is very difficult or nearly impossible to strip off many solid stains such as Cabots. I would try a stains stripper such as Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper or HD80 then sand off the rest. Both TWP stains are excellent.
I just finished using the RAD kit and after using the brightener the deck boards look blotchy. Is this typical? Does this mean the cleaner did not do its job?
Matt, was there an old stain on the deck? The cleaner does not remove old coatings unless it has been many years. You would want a stripper.
Northern New Jersey
20 year Old PTW Deck
Part Sun (afternoon)
I just stripped the deck using Ben Moore's product + pressure washer. I removed 99% of old stain/paint. The wood is in good shape since it's always had something on it. After brightening it, what is recommended as a stain? I was going to use BM's Arbor Coat until I read this site…
Steve, I am glad we saved you from the Arborcoat. We have yet to have a positive comment on the product. As for a stain, I would suggest a TWP 1500.
I would like to stain my deck using TWP 1500. As far as prepping goes for a transparent stain that was applied two years ago will the cleaner/brightner be sufficient? or will I need to use a stripper?
Also, the restore-a-deck on the gemini coatings web site has a different logo. Is it the same product?
Matt, What was the brand that was used two years ago? It makes a difference as to if it needs to be stripped or not. Not sure on the restore a deck. I would ask the manufacturer.
Two years ago used Cabot 9200 Natural (Transparent). Then last year I just used Cabot Problem Solver Wood Clean but did not brighten or restain.
Cleaning and brightening should be enough to prep for the TWP.
Thanks. I used the cleaner today with a pressure washer and it seemed to work well. I did notice a bit of oily residue on some the deck boards after washing. I'm assuming this was the old Cabot stain. Will this cause any problems as I continue? Also, I did not have enough time to do the brightener today so I will be using it tomorrow. Should I wet the boards down before applying it? Thanks
Matt, I would just apply the brightener. It does not matter if the wood is wet or not. Should be good going forward.
[…] 1. Restore-A-Deck […]
South Carolina
full sun (mostly)
cedar siding painted 8 years ago with semi-transparent stain
some mold and mildew
Terry, prep first properly then I would look at the TWP or Defy Extreme.
What is your opinion of Safestrip by Gemini, who manufactures TWP and the Restore-A-Deck cleaner/brightener (but not the Restor-A-Deck stripper)?
Thanks.
Jeff, Gemini does make Safe Strip but we have not rated it yet. Sorry about that.
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