This post was updated on May 1, 2024
Deck Stain Brands in 2026
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Exterior wood and decks stains are all designed to protect and preserve your exterior wood from the elements. Decks stain brands differ though drastically in the ingredients, solids, etc. Deck stains also come in a variety of types: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, and Semi-Solids that will determine the opacity of the stain when applied to the wood
In this article, we will compare the deck stain brands that we have reviewed to give a better understanding of physical properties, application info, and any other useful data that can help you determine which stain to use.
Deck Stain Brands
| Armstrong Clark | Behr Premium Wood Stain | Benjamin Moore Arbor Coat | Cabot Australian Timber Oil | Defy Extreme |
| Oil-Based Penetrating Stain | Water Based Acrylic Filming Staining | Water Based Acrylic Filming Staining | Oil Based Penetrating Stain | Water Based Penetrating Stain |
| Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid | Semi-Transparent | Semi-Solid | Semi-Transparent | Semi-Transparent |
| 1-2 Coats | 2 Coats | 1 Coat Base, 1 Top Coat | 1 Coat | 1-2 Coats wet on wet |
| 200-250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 150-250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 150-250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 150-250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 100-200 Sq. Feet Per Gallon |
| Paint Thinner Cleanup | Water Cleanup | Water Cleanup | Paint Thinner Cleanup | Water Cleanup |
| 4-12 Hours Drying | 4 Hours Drying | 4 Hours Drying | 4-24 Hours Drying | 1-4 Hours Drying |
| Compliant All States | Compliant All States | Compliant All States | Compliant All States | Compliant All States |
| Defy Ultra | IPE Oil | Flood CWF-Oil | Messmers | One Time |
| Water Based Penetrating Stain | Oil-Based Penetrating Stain | Oil-Based Penetrating Stain | Oil-Based Penetrating Stain | Oil-Based Penetrating Stain |
| Semi-Transparent | Semi-Transparent | Semi-Transparent | Transparent and Semi-Transparent | Semi-Transparent (100% Solids) |
| 1-2 Coats wet on wet | 1 Coat | 2 Coats | 1-2 Coats | 1-2 Coats |
| 100-200 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 150-250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 150-250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 300 Sq. Feet Per Gallon |
| Water Cleanup | Paint Thinner Cleanup | Paint Thinner Cleanup | Paint Thinner Cleanup | Paint Thinner Cleanup |
| 1-4 Hours Drying | 4-8 Hours Drying | 4-24 Hours Drying | 4-12 Hours Drying | 12-72 Hours Drying |
| Compliant All States | Compliant All States | Compliant All States | Compliant All States | Compliant All States |
| Penofin | Ready Seal |
SW Deckscapes |
Sikkens SRD |
SW Super Deck |
| Oil-Based Penetrating Stain | Oil-Based Penetrating Stain | Oil-Based Penetrating Stain and Water Based Filming | Oil Based Penetrating Stain | Oil-Based Penetrating Stain |
| Transparent and Semi-Transparent | Transparent and Semi-Transparent | Semi-Transparent | Semi-Transparent | Transparent and Semi-Transparent |
| 1-2 Coats | 2 Coats | 1-2 Coats | 1-2 Coats | 1-2 Coats |
| 200-250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 75-150 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 150-250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 150-250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 150-300 Sq. Feet Per Gallon |
| Paint Thinner Cleanup | Paint Thinner Cleanup | Water Cleanup or Paint Thinner | Paint Thinner Cleanup | Paint Thinner Cleanup |
| 4-24 Hours Drying | 4-48 Hours Drying | 4-24 Hours Drying | 4-24 Hours Drying | 4-48 Hours Drying |
| Compliant All States | Compliant All States | Compliant All States | Compliant All States | Compliant All States |
| Rust-Oleum Deck Restore |
Thompsons | TWP Stains |
Wolman Durastain |
| Water Based Acrylic Filming Staining | Oil-Based Penetrating Stain | Oil-Based Penetrating Stain | Water Based Acrylic Filming Staining |
| Solid Stain | Transparent | Semi-Transparent | Semi-Solid |
| 2 Coats | 1-2 Coats | 1-2 Coats wet on wet | 1-2 Coats |
| 50-100 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 150-250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 150-250 Sq. Feet Per Gallon | 100-200 Sq. Feet Per Gallon |
| Water Cleanup | Paint Thinner Cleanup | Paint Thinner Cleanup | Water Cleanup |
| 4-12 Hours Drying | 4 Hours Drying | 4-24 Hours Drying | 2-8 Hours Drying |
| Compliant All States | Compliant All States | *1500 Compliant All States – *100 is compliant in only 33 States |
Compliant All States |
I bought a townhome with a 20-yr-old deck attached. It looks dark/old, with remnants of a prior stain (unknown when or what brand). I plan on having someone Power wash, sand and restain.
The two options I have right now are at the local Ace hardware. Ready Seal and Cabot. The Cabot has a solid stain option where they’ll mix in the color, as well as semi-transparent (or is it semi-solid? What’s the diff?), and one other I don’t remember. The Ready Seal just shows different colors, so I’m assuming it’s a standard transparent stain.
What would be the best out of the options available? I hear Ready Seal is well received, but have also heard Solid Stain is the way to go for an old deck.
Neither, both are poor choices. Ready seal has lots of issues with drying and fading quickly. See review here and read comments at bottom:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ready-seal-wood-and-deck-stain-review/
If both are poor choices (and that’s all that is locally available), then which would you choose, assuming you would have to restain in a year, give or take? Go ahead with solid so it at least looks better while it’s on?
We would use the Cabot over the Ready Seal.
Which product is best for an older trex deck. Would you suggest either a Behr or Sherwin Williams product?
Sorry but neither are very good. Try Defy Composite Sealer.
I have a 12 month old PT pine deck on Long Island (NY). Getting ready to seal it with a semi transparent for the first time. Deck is in direct sunlight. Already cleaned the boards. What semi transparent ( with a cedar tone) do you recommend? I’m leaning toward Defy Extreme but TWC 100 and Cabot also sound good.
Look at Restore A Deck Stains as well or TWP 1500. The TWP 100 is not allowed in NY.
Cabot is not good. Used to be great, and then they sold the company. Not it stinks.
Hello – I am in the process of completing a Cedar glider chair. The recommendation is to use Cabot Cedar Stain. My wife would like it to look natural – so I am contemplating Cabot transparent. How would this work out for longevity in the outdoors (South Carolina resident).
We live on the east coast of Florida, full sun, humidity and salt. Our deck and stairs are 2 years old and PT wood. Which stain do you recommend?
Try one of these brands.
I’m going to stain my deck floor and the pillars supporting the covered deck. I believe they have both been stained before. The old stain isn’t peeling but still shows through lightly in some areas.
What do you recommend I do about the little bit of old stain and any recommendations on what stain to use for the pillars and deck floor?
What stain brand and type did you use? Pictures would help as well.
It was stained by the prior owner so I am not sure. Here are two photos. The pillar has had a crack filled in with stainable wood filler.
A wood filler will not work on a deck and it will not stain to blend either with deck stains.https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-filler-for-decks/
For the prep, use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. Stain with the Restore A Deck Stains or the Armstrong Clark stains.
I am trying to determine the best stain for Wisconsin climates. I have narrowed it down to Penofin, TWP 100 series and Sikkens (Cabot didn’t make the cut). Any preferences?
TWP 100 Series is much better than the other two. You can read all reviews on our site.
Here is the other one
Hello… I live in Manitoba, and have a 10 year old preasure treated deck. In a full sun southern location. I have preasure washed and sanded the old pealing Behr stain off. The deck looks like new. I was thinking of using the Australian Cobalt oil based semi transperant stain. My concern is… How long will it smell like an oil base, and can it be recoated in a few years again without presure washing and sanding…
Thank you… Your doing a great job. 👍👍
We are not fans of Cabot stains since they were sold and they changed all their formulas for the worse. We would not suggest them. Try TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark stains. Those are both products that can be cleaned and recoated as needed.
We have used Cabot semi solid oil stain on our deck and power washed for our 2 year redo. We also sanded most areas with a belt sander. Can we use same stain again without getting every last bit of stain off? Should we still use a deck cleaner before staining?
Yes, you can use the same stain. A deck cleaner would most likely help.
I have a 5 year old cabin, pressure treated wood stained with an oil based Sikkens transparent stain. It is peeling on the horizontal high traffic and sunny areas, and on a few vertical rails near the chlorinated hottub. Can I just pressure wash and apply new coat of Sikkens or do I need to strip it first? I want a durable finish for the horizontal finish, or at least one that can be reapplied in a few years without stripping again. What do you recommend? Are solid stains more durable than transparent or semi transparent stains? Have you seen anyone use solid stains on the horizontal surfaces and transparent or semi transparent on the verticals?
Best to remove all and use a penetrating stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
If I strip and apply Restore A Deck water based stain, can it be simply cleaned and a new coat applied over it after 2-3 years (the TWP 100 review mentions it can be)? Do solid stains hold up longer than semi-transparent stains in horizontal sunny traffic areas?
Solid stains tend to peel in horizontal areas. The RAD Wood Stain can be cleaned and recoated as needed.
Here are pictures of the current deck
That is the shiny version of Sikkens. To remove and switch brands, you would have to sand it all off. It might be easiest to clean and reapply the same Sikkens so it matches your house.
I called Sikkens and they said I could use Flood Wood Stripper to strip the old off of the horizontal surfaces without sanding and then apply a single coat of SRD. I just want to make sure I am getting the information for a solution that works and can be accomplished over Labor Day weekend. Do have a better stripper recommendation?
I highly doubt that the Flood Stripper or any stripper will remove this. You will need to sand to fully remove.
I have an eleven year-old pressure treated pine deck that is weathered gray and completely porous to water but in remarkably good condition for not having been stained since just after construction. I replaced the floor and most of the steps with new pine eight months ago. Because of this aged-and-new wood combination I thought I would need at least a semi-solid stain to ensure a uniformity of final appearance.
Color is the determining factor for brand choice for me; as terrific as TWP and AC are, only Cabot seems to offer the darker shade of gray I’m looking for. I’m having difficulty finding consistent performance reviews of Cabot semi-solids from which I can determine what to expect in two or three years when it’s time to refinish; I dread having to do a complete sanding; the vertical surfaces and innumerable crevices would take forever.
Given the condition of my deck, do I really need a semi-solid stain or could a semi-transparent stain give me the smooth, uniform look I’m after?
To achieve a balance between transparency and opacity, I’ve read that a Cabot semi-solid should contain four ounces of colorant; too much more and it becomes a solid. My local Cabot supplier prepares their semi-solid with nine ounces of colorant. What is my recourse here? I’m having a hard time imagining telling the paint clerk how to mix a stain to anything other than what is probably the Cabot standard.
I’d appreciate any advice you’d have. Thank you for your help and for a really terrific website!
The newer boards will be less absorbent so they will be lighter in color if using a semi-trans. A semi-solid would “blend” better but there will still be a slight noticeable difference. We would not use the Cabot. It is a water based acrylic that will end up filming on top of the wood like a solid stain. Prone to peeling.
The Cabot semi-solid I have been considering is the 1406; Cabot describes its vehicle as an “alkyd resin and refined natural linseed oil”, not a water-based acrylic. Am I missing something?
This may all be moot as it appears that the uniformity of appearance I’m looking for can best – perhaps only – be achieved by using a solid stain. Would a semi-solid with extra colorant be better? If it looks like an oil- based solid would be right, what brand would be best? Any suggestions?
Thanks again for your help.
Sorry but you are correct, you have the oil based version. It is better than the water based for certain.
You would be still be better off with a semi-solid over a any solid stain brand. Less pigment means it will soak in better.
One last question: I know that I will want to apply a second wet-on-wet coat on the new pine to match what I expect to be a darker appearance in the newly stained one-coat older wood. Should I resist the temptation or is one coat sufficient overall?
DIY home projects can sometimes be daunting but your advice has made this one less so. Thank you.
One only.
My 4 year old pressure treated wood deck floor has Cabot semi solid. What is best product for Detroit suburb. Partial sun in am and pm because deck surrounds a tree
Also railing is Cabot solid. What do you recommend?
My deck person wants to use Sherwin Williams Super deck. I’m not sure if that is a good choice based on some reviews.
It cannot be slippery because we are seniors. Thanks!
Try Flood Solid Stains for the railings and the Armstrong Clark or TWP for the floors. Make sure he preps correctly by removing all the Cabot off the floor first. You can coat over the solid on the ralings though.
I have a couple questions. We have a new construction house with a wood deck on the front (I think it’s cedar). I want to stain it this summer. (1) It’s already got some foot traffic on it, do you recommend using just a cleaner before applying the stain?
The house is a dark gray color and my wife wants to keep the deck close to the original color so the whole thing doesn’t feel too dark. I on the other hand don’t want to re-stain our deck every year. I think something like a semi-transparent would work well. (2) Are there different shades of semi-transparent? (3) Do you have any general recommendations of a semi-transparent brand that holds up well?
Thanks for any assistance!
A deck cleaner and a wood brightener for the prep.
Any of these brands will work: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Finished a redwood deck in October. Couldn’t stain due to low temps. What should I do to prep? Cleaner and brightener? Wood does not look too different than it did in October (less red, but not gray).
Also, recommendation on stain brand? (Have tried samples from AC and Messemers, happy with the look of either). Local shop carries Messemers..
Very dry climate at high elevation. Thanks!
Prep with a deck cleaner and a wood brighener. Use the AC over the Messmers.
My 5 year old deck was stained with Behr semi transparent stain by contractor when The house was built. I’m thinking it might have been done to soon because it was a bit tacky for a few days afterwards. Since the contractor left the remainder of the stain with us we cleaned the deck and reapplied it the next summer due to some peeling. Again it was tacky for a few days afterwards. I will not be using that brand again but will instead be using the Armstrong Clark or the TWP series. How should we prepare the deck before applying.
You will need to strip and sand all the Behr off. Once removed, use a wood brightener for the final prep.
We have a new 1year old seasoned PT pine deck. We live in southwest Ohio, in the Dayton area. Our deck is a covered deck, with one side and steps facing partial sun and blown rain. Just finished priming and painting all the rails, deck spindles and posts and were getting ready to stain. Here is our problem! To keep paint from getting on our deck while painting, my husband covered the necessary area with brown paper, BUT, taped it down with masking tape….oh lordy! Now we have the gummy glue from tape on our deck floor and a dark stain left from tape. How do we treat and get this glue off without damaging the deck floor? I sure hope you can help us. We are going to use Defy or Clark semi-transparent stain. Any suggestions is welcomed.
Sorry but no idea. Maybe Goof Off?
Tried Goof Off and it did not work. Worried, if sanding off, stain would not cover the sanded area.
Stain would cover the sanded area provided you sand it with the same grit sandpaper as you sanded the adjacent wood pieces when you originally stained the deck. Also, you will have to do full boards. Do not try to stain only a portion of any single board. It will never match. Sand the whole board and restain it. Take the board off if you have to and just reattach it after you sand and stain it.
Need to stain 1/2 round pine log siding, it currently has not been done in 5-10 years as old owner ignored the need. We hope to use SuperDeck. Would that product work? Would use a Transparent as need to do Pine Lodge Poles and railings of the same.
Super Deck will work but the reviews are average. It also can turn dark or black. See this for other options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Use the Armstrong Clark. As for Behr, read the ratings by the actual customers who used the Behr. They are not happy campers.
Hi. We live in N. CA and are installing a new Redwood fence with lattice top. What stain would you recommend. Consumer reports likes Behr but I gather you don’t, We were thinking of something semi-transparent but want it to last. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
Hi. We are having a 6′ shadow box fence in treated pine put in. We are looking to also have it stained in a few months. We live in Indiana and want a Redwood type color in semi-transparent. Would Thompson’s be sufficient or something else you would recommend?
Use TWP 1500 Series or Defy Extreme Stain.
I have small 10′ camping trailer. The exterior is new rough cedar. I would like to use a semi transparent cedar stain. What would you recommend?
Armstrong Clark or Defy Extreme Stain.
I have a brand new pressure treated deck I would like to stain and have it last several years . Any recommendations?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck…
I am about to put down a new Batu deck, 750 sq ft in the hills of Connecticut. I have heard that SuperDeck is good. I want a penetrating oil, nothing with a film. Please offer your recommendation and how long between re coat. Every 2 years? 3 years? I plan to use hidden fasteners in a groove. Does the groove need to be treated too? Should I buy it prefinished or put it down unfinished and finish later? It's getting cold in CT!!
Your wood type requires an annual cleaning and recoating every year. Nothing will last longer on an exotic hardwood deck. Look at Armstrong Clark or Defy Hardwood stain.
Is it important to apply the finish in the groove before installing the decking?
Not really. Just exposed wood after install.
Just installed a new massaranduba floating deck in NJ. Locally I can only find Cabot and Benjamin Moore being sold. Is there a preferred stain for this type of wood (ie Messmers or IPE OIL?) Is it worth ordering through amazon and waiting a week or just get it sealed as soon as possible with Benjamin Moore. I've wiped it down should a cleaner also be used prior to sealing?
Thanks!
Do not use the BM. Try the Ipe Oil. Wait a month and prep with a deck cleaner before applying.
I live in Long Island, NY. We have a large redwood deck with steps going up a hill. The deck and steps are about 32 years old with a western exposure that gets a lot of sun in most areas. We replaced a few damaged boards last year. We used a Cabot's semi-solid stain for many years, but then the formula changed and the deck would turn black in areas within a few months. We just had the deck power washed. Should we also use a cleanser & brightener? Then, what kind of stain do you recommend? Semi solid or solid? TWP or Sikkens or Armstrong Clark? Thanks.
You should remove all of the old layers of Cabot. Strip and pressure wash. Sand if needed and then brighten. Once prepped, you can use the TWP or the AC for this. Semi-transparent.
I have a 23 year old treated pine deck that has several coats of oil[-base stain. Last year we were advised that a latex stain would do fine over oil, but it has peeled and has scraped off where furniture has been moved. We have power washed and used Sherwin Williams deck stain and sealer removal, but still have lots of small pieces of the latex on as well as the underlying oil stain. What can I use that will adhere to both the oil and latex that remain on the deck?
Try the Gulf synthetics Deck Revive. Use the Permabond first.
I just sanded my 20 year old deck with an angle grinder using Diamabrush attachment. It did a good job it removed an old failing finish completely. Should i use an oil stain or water based? Do i need to clean, brighten or power wash the freshly sanded wood. Should i use a solid stain or semi solid? I am liking the Defy Extreme what are your expert thoughts? Thank you.
Yes you should clean and brighten after. Using the Defy Extreme would be a good stain to try.
I'm looking for an oil-based semi-transparent stain to apply to green pressure treated plywood. It's for the roof deck of a converted school bus, so I expect it will endure lots of UV, foot traffic, and all types of weather.
Which brand would you recommend?
TWP or Armstrong Clark.
Do you have a review of Behr Premium Transparent Penetrating Oil wood finish? It seems to be a new product, which is supposed to have UV protection, waterproofing, mildew resistance. Thanks
If it is new then no, but in general all the Behr stains are very poor. We would never use them.
I have a very old deck. We recently replaced quite a few boards. The store told us to get Arborcoat (Not sure who it is made by). Is that a good brand? We were thinking of semi-transparent or semi-solid. Can you give me the pros and cons of each? Thank you.
No it has poor reviews and peels. Please search reviews on our site for this brand and look at some that we rate higher.
How about the TWP for our old deck?
TWP works well on older wood.
I just completed my 560 sq ft PT deck. I finished the framing and decking last summer and the stairs and railing three weeks ago. The decking has faded already. I live in eastern PA so the deck gets snow and it has no sun cover. We would prefer a solution that would allow us to see the wood grain but protection is also important.
thanks
Mike, see this about new wood:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Try the Armstrong Clark or Defy stains once you wait and prep accordingly.
Hi,
We live coastal San Diego and have a trellis that we are going to stain with semi solid. We have termites dry-wood and subterranean. So it gets full sun and ocean air….thoughts on brand of stain?
Dave
Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid.
Hello,
We have a 700 sq ft deck that extends out over salt water in the state of Washington. 3 years ago we applied "inwood" water based stain. The problem with it was that when it got wet, it became very slippery. So I have pressure washed it off and am about to apply a new stain, most likely an oil based, semi transparent. Looking at Penofin Red label, Messmers, Deft, and Cabots or. So my questions: 1. Should we do any more surface prep (the wood looks like new wood having pressure washed it); 2. Is one of these products superior to all the others?
1. As long as the wood is clean and porous, you should be good to stain.
2. Of those, the only decent one is Messmers.
Thank you. My contractor was ready to start and I had not checked for your response, so I bought Cabot's. Oh well!
Barry
Hi, I have a new PT pine deck completed in October 2015. I'm ready to clean and stain. It gets partial sun (depending on time of day) and gets rain as well. I live in Atlanta, GA. I'd prefer a waterborne stain, but open to be sold on oil-based as well. What product do you think is best for quality and LONGEVITY? Longevity is obviously key.
Thank you!
Nathan
Hi Nathan, Look at the Defy Extreme stain for this.
Our reverse board and batten barn has just been painted with Thompsons (over an 8 year old semi transparent CWR-very faded on the sunny sides.) Would like to add an "over coat" with oil base to warm up the finish. Much read about Armstrong but not available here. Suggestions welcome.
You cannot \”over coat\” a paint or deck stain.
I live in Massachusetts. My 20 year old pressure treated deck is in full sun and endures cruel winters. It was last cleaned and stained 4 years ago with a semi transparent oil product. It has worn off the flooring and a small amount still seems to be tinting the balusters. We just had it pressure washed and it's ready for stain. From my analysis, I think we should use an oil based product and we prefer the look of semi transparent. It seems TWP 1500 and Armstrong Clark are the top 2 choices, which would be best?
Either would be fine.
I have a 12 x 25 deck that was built last fall. Part of it is covered. We are getting ready to stain it for the first time. I want to keep it natural in color and was going to go with a transparent stain. I was in Home Depot and looked at Behr Premium. My husband purchased a deck cleaner before we stain. After all my reading, now sure I want to go with Behr in a transparent stain. I live in the hills of Pennsylvania and get lots of snow and cold weather. Your thoughts?
Don not use the Behr. Try TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark.
We have powere washed our 25 year old deck and had someone replace the severely cracked boards with new pine deck in boards. The new wood is yellow looking and much lighter than the old decking. I would like to use s Behr semi transparent stain as the side rails are still a beautiful wood tone matching Behr's Red Cedar stain color. My dilemma is how do I match the new boards to the old for a uniform color? I have tried a few of the gray colors as a first coat on the new wood to try and "gray it up" and then use the same overall color on top of everything but so far no match. Should I give up my dream of all semi transparent and do the deck in solid stain and rails and posts in semi transparent? A timely response is appreciated!
First of all you should read the reviews on the Behr. They are not good. New wood and older would will not blend well with a semi-transparent stain. They will look better with a semi-solid. Prep all wood well with a cleaner and wood brightener and try the Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color.
I have a cedar deck that I applied a semi transparent stain (Sherwin Williams 3505 Yankee Barn) in 2007. After exposure to weather and large hail the coating has flaked off in the sun exposed area. Where it is protected by a roof, the stain is in perfect condition but attracts dust.
Question:
1. How can I clean the dust off of the stain and keep it off? I have used car wash soap with a brush and it will not remove the dust. I am thinking about using dishwater detergent and a brush. I think the stain problem is dust static charge that keeps the dust attached to the stain surface.
2. What type and brand of stain do you recommend that I might apply over the current Sherwin Williams 3505 that might eliminate the dirt/dust problem.
1. You cannot keep dust from coming back. Try cleaning with a deck cleaner.
2. You cannot apply a different brand of stain on top of the SW without removing it first. It will not penetrate into the wood or adhere.
No star rating at the end. Why?
Not sure what you mean as we have a rating on this article.
I built a cedar deck about 3 weeks ago about 200 sq. ft. My question is how long should I let the wood season before staining it, is 3 to 4 months ok or should it be longer ? also what brand of semi-transparent stain would recommend ? I live in Post Falls, Idaho which is about 30 miles east of Spokane, Washington if that matters. Thanks for your help.
Please read: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Have a deck on our lake house in Ohio. Used a solid stain a couple of years go, and it has peeled and looks like we didn't even stain it in some areas. What would you suggest we use to stain it this summer? We want it to hold up well in the sunlight. It receives all day sun. Thanks for your help!
Once solid stained you will need to stay with a solid stain unless you want to remove it all by sanding. Issue is that solids will continue to peel every year to two. No solid stain can be applied over your current solid and fix the underlying issue of the old coating.
Live in SW Fla and just had a new boat dock put in 3 months ago with pressure-treated deck boards. They advised let dry for 3-6 months before staining. Looking for the best stain to hold up on p-t boards in harsh sun/salty conditions. Thanks.
Try the TWP 100 Series or the Defy Extreme Stain.
I live near Republic, WA at 3700 feet elevation. My house has T111 with 5 or six rows of lapped cedar horizontally on the bottom. Since I live in the woods I left the wood tones on all of this and used a Behr trasnparent (I thought it was oil based) on it about 7 years ago. It is now in terrible condition where exposed to the light most of the day. I can buy Cabot oil stain locally or I find a real bargain on new Flood oil stain on Craigslist–15 gal for $200, but I want this to last. Is one better than the other? Or should I simply go to Sikkens for the extra cost?
Of the three you mentioned I would use the Sikkens. Cabot used to be a good stain until recent formula changes and I would not trusts anything on craigs list. Try to find TWP locally.
I live in Lafayette, California
I have a redwood deck that is comprised of three seperate deck areas with a total area of approximately 400 square feet. The decks also include redwood benches and handrails that is approximately 20 years old and last stained approximately 5 years ago with Duckback Superdeck. The deck is in partial sun and shade. Many years ago I had a cabin with cedar siding in the mountains at elevation approximately 6100 feet. The cabin was finished with Penofin.
What stain material would give me the best and most natural looking finish. Without any other input I would likely use Penofin again, even though it might not last much beyond a year or two.
Try the Armstrong Clark stain over the Penofin.
Living in Ottawa, Canada. I have a recent red cedar deck (2 months old, will be 3 months when I will stain it). I'm looking for something that will keep maximum wood grain visibility. Deck is only exposed to full sun for the 1st half of the day, a part of the deck never really sees full sun (lots of trees surrounding the deck). Am I better to go transparent or semi-transparent to preserve the grain of my cedar deck? And which product would be better for it? Was looking at Armstrong Clark or Defy Extreme (but no transparent by Defy, if transparent is better for wood grain preservation). What's you opinion?
Thanks.
Semi-trans give longer UV protection than a transparent. Armstrong Clark for this newer wood.
I have a large full exposed red cedar deck on the south side of my home. It is 5 years old. I have tried 3 times to get decent performance from semi and soild stains. No luck. Sun just bruns them up in a year. My deck gets baked all summer. I live in ND and the winter doesnt help. I have gotten my wife to agree to let me use a transparent oil based stain and she will live with the color and grain as it comes through and I get to deal with restaing in a coupel years..I hope. My idea is at least it wont look like crap and will just fade down. I am, sadly, very well veresed in the sanding and prep involved. Any sugestions? I am leaning towards parafin oil.
Use Armstrong Clark as it contains both parafin oils and curing oils. Better than straight parafin oil deck stains.
I live in southern Maryland and have an older pressure treated wood deck that has never been stained or treated. The VOC restrictions in Maryland limit my options. I'm currently considering the TWP 1500 and Deft Extreme stain/sealers. What is your recommendation for a deck stain/sealer?
Deb, either would work well. Make sure to prep wood with a deck cleaner and wood brightener first.
I'm looking for a quality solid or semi solid stain but there doesn't seem to be much on this website. Is this because they haven't been reviewed or there is nothing really out there?
All solid stains peel and this site is geared towards natural looking stains that show the wood grain. Armstrong Clark makes an excellent semi-solid stain.
Thanks. I'm actually looking to just paint the fence a solid white and the deck with a semi transparent. Armstrong doesn't offer white. So if I want to use white, I'd be looking at repainting after a few years?
Try Flood\’s solid color stain for this fence. On a horizontal, a solid stain should last 3-4 years, maybe longer.
I should have clarified, I only want to paint the fence white and the deck with a semi transparent stain. Armstrong doesn't have white. Since it a solid color would be only the fence, is there any chance there would be less peeling?
Solid colors perform much better on verticals.
Bill, we really do not review solid stains. Just the synta product. When we use solids stains (which is rarely) we like the Flood brand. It seems to penetrate better. As contractors we like the grain to show and that is why we do not rate solids or use them for clients.