This post was updated on April 8, 2026
Defy Extreme Wood and Deck Stain Review
✅ Defy Extreme Stain Review (Quick Verdict)
Defy Extreme is a high-quality water-based deck stain that offers excellent UV resistance and color retention. While it requires proper prep and careful application, it performs well for those wanting a durable, eco-friendly alternative to oil-based stains.
✅ Defy Extreme Stain – Key Takeaways
- Type: Water-based / acrylic penetrating stain
- Durability: Above average with proper prep
- UV Protection: Excellent (zinc nano technology)
- Ease of Application: Moderate (less forgiving than oil)
- Maintenance: Moderate—requires proper prep for recoats
7.5 Rating Defy Extreme Wood Stain
Defy Extreme Stain was introduced in 2008 as the newest member of the Defy Stain family. Defy Extreme Deck Stain is a penetrating water-based stain that does not film on the wood. Defy Extreme contains synthetic epoxy resins that “harden” the wood pores below the surface.
Utilizing nano-technology, Defy Extreme is one of the best stains on the market when it comes to preventing UV graying.
✅ What Type of Stain Is Defy Extreme?
Defy Extreme is a water-based semi-transparent wood stain that uses synthetic resins combined with zinc nano-particles for enhanced UV protection. Unlike traditional oil-based stains, it relies more on surface bonding while still offering some penetration into the wood.
Defy Extreme Deck Stain Ratings (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8.5
– Defy Extreme Stain had a rich look to the wood. Natural grain was highlighted evenly throughout. The Defy Extreme did not mask the grain like other water-based wood stains. The penetration of the stain into the wood was excellent. The Cedartone color was slightly on the “orange” side but acceptable for a cedar deck stain color.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9
– One of the best in the industry. Testing over a 2 year period showed little to no color fade. The zinc oxide nanoparticles seemed to help drastically with the UltraViolet radiation that turns the wood gray.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
– Better than average wear and tear. High traffic areas show some wearing but overall tested
extremely well. No noticeable peeling.
Cost Per Square Foot: 7
– Defy Extreme costs about $55 per gallon. For two coats we got about 100 square feet per gallon. We used 8 gallons for the 750 square foot deck translating to a per square foot price of $.55 a foot.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 10
– Defy Extreme Stain is a water-based stain that does not promote mold growth in the stain. A very small amount of algae was noticeable but was only in a shaded area and was on top of the stain. More of an issue with the decks’ location, not the stain itself.
Ease of Application: 7.5
– Fairly easy to apply. One issue we noticed was that it can dry very fast when in direct sunlight and on a hot day. Easy cleanup with water.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
– Stain changed very little in color after the 2 year period. No noticeable darkening.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
– No noticeable darkening, deep penetration, and little wearing make the Defy Extreme Stain an easy product to reapply when needed. Mild wood cleaning with the Defy Wood Cleaner and Defy Wood Brightener is what you would need to use to prep.
Overall Score Defy Extreme Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.5
– Defy Extreme is an excellent product and easily outperforms the majority of stains on the market. When it comes to water-based “Eco-Friendly” stains, Defy Extreme is our top choice. Defy Extreme performed in the top three of all stains tested when it comes to preventing UV graying on a horizontal surface. On vertical surfaces such as railings, the Extreme had no color change.
✅ Real-World Performance
In real-world use, Defy Extreme performs well in terms of color retention and UV resistance. However, like most water-based stains, it can be less forgiving during application and may require more thorough prep to ensure even absorption and long-term performance.
Product Information:
Help or Questions? Defy Extreme Stain
Cost: $55 per Gallon, $269 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Water Based
Available Colors: Cedartone, Natural Pine, Light Walnut, Clear, Redwood, Butternut, Driftwood Gray
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 100-150 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 2-4 Hours
Cleanup: Water
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in all States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Saver Systems
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 750 Square feet
UV Exposure: 90% Full Sun, 10% Shade. South facing.
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Cedartone
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Defy Wood Stain Photos
✅ Defy Extreme vs Oil-Based Deck Stains
- Defy Extreme (Water-Based):
- Better UV color retention
- Faster drying
- Lower VOC
- Oil-Based Stains:
- Deeper penetration
- Easier long-term maintenance
- More forgiving application
✅ When Defy Extreme Works Best
- Decks in full sun exposure
- Users wanting long-lasting color retention
- Environmentally conscious homeowners
❌ When to Avoid Defy Extreme
- Poorly prepped wood surfaces
- Users wanting the easiest maintenance option
- Older decks with heavy wear
FAQs – Defy Extreme Wood Stain
How long does Defy Extreme last?
Typically 2–3 years depending on exposure and prep.
Is Defy Extreme better than oil-based stains?
It offers better UV resistance but may require more careful application and prep.
Does Defy Extreme peel?
It is less likely to peel than solid stains, but improper prep can lead to adhesion issues.
Is Defy Extreme easy to apply?
Moderate—requires attention to avoid lap marks.





Texas Gulf Coast Dock Application Review.
I have a 2 1/2 year old pressure treated pine dock on the Texas gulf coast that needed a sealer preservative application. I had applied Thompson’s after initially allowing the wood to dry for a few months, but the sealer had lost its effectiveness after only 9 months or so. I researched diligently and chose Defy.
I followed the instructions strictly, using first their wood cleaner, then Brightener, then a week later applying the stain. (I had already pressure washed the deck boards before beginning.)
I am highly impressed by the products thus far. The cleaner was very effective and easy to use. The Brightener was a really easy step that I was curious about, but I did it and I’m glad I did. The Brightener makes a huge difference in opening up the wood pores to receive the stain/sealer.
I then applied the Extreme stain/sealer in Natural Pine color. I sprayed it on with a deck pressure tank sprayer followed immediately by brushing in with a car wash type brush (Unger) and followed with a second wet on wet coat, same steps, within 15 minutes or so, again following the instructions as strictly as I could. I was careful not to over-apply. (The deck is about 500 square feet, but I only used about 3 1/2 gallons.)
I am super happy with the whole process and appearance on completion. It looks fantastic. Really first rate. Let’s see how the next two years of wear and tear go.
Bill in Rockport.
Thanks for your review.
Hey Bill, how did this hold up for you? I’m in Florida and looking to do the same on large deck – blazing sun, humidity and subsequent mildew here is probably similar to Texas conditions. I love the natural pine color but have been wondering if I should consider going darker for the additional UV protection. Thanks! 🙂
I live in western ny. No matter how hard I tried (and tried, trust me) I was only able to get off 80-85 of my old cabot stain off of my pressure treated deck. Would Defy Extreme still be a good choice for me?
Jay, for Defy to work correctly you need to remove 100% of the old stain. For decks that we have a hard time getting off all of the old stain, we use Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color.
The sun facing side of my cedar shingled sided So. Cal house near the ocean gets hammered by the elements. I've used both Cuprinol and Deckscapes water based stains, can I switch to an oil base, or stay with a water based Defy Extreme?
The sun facing side of my cedar shingled So. Cal house near the ocean gets hammered by the elements. I've used both Cuprinol and Deckscapes water based stains, both only lasting 18 months before drying and fading. Would you recommend the Defy Epoxy Extreme for better results?
Walter, Defy Extreme is an excellent water based stain. When switching brands you should remove the old coating. As contractors we would strip if possible the old stain. Problem is the SW is not an easy product to strip as it seems to film on top of the wood like a paint.
RickO, Defy makes excellent prepping products. Stay with them. I would just use the Extreme since it is not directly over the water.
We have 6 yr old PTW deck that had water based semi transparent stain (brand or color unknown). Vertical surfaces have held up fairly well. Deck surface is very worn and there is quite a bit of green algae on all surfaces. How do we re-stain and get uniform color? Do we have to strip all the vertical surfaces? Would prefer to use water based stain. Can we just apply Defy stain over entire surface without stripping the railings? We can live with some uneven color, but will that be too much?
Also, We've tried Wolman DeckBrite to clean it, but still have some green algae that didn't come off. Thanks.
Donna, if you want uniform appearance then you will need to strip it all down otherwise the rails will not match the floors. If you are okay with it not matching then just strip/clean the floor and apply the closest color in the Defy.
I installed cedar shingles on my cabin last fall. It is now ready to be stained. I was thinking to use Defy, but I am hesitating due to the dripping and difficulty to apply on vertical surfaces.
Would you recommend Defy in my situation?
Romeo, sure as all stains will drip when applying so it does not matter which one you use.
I have a PTW deck that had silkens on for 4 years with good results. Deck gets 20% sun. This year after a bad winter The deck needs resealing. I will strip all the old finish off and want to apply Defy extreme but I want a darker color like walnut. Can I mix a watco walnut stain in the Defy extreme to make it darker? I did that with previous stains and got good results.
Fritz, you cannot mix stain into the Defy Extreme. Might want to look at the Butternut color. It is a medium brown and darker then the dark walnut.
What about Spar on top of Timber Oil?
Eddie, you should never put a spar varnish on top of any deck stain.
What do you think about using this on a picnic table? Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana. (HIGH HUMIDITY!) And what do you think about topping with a Spar Varnish?
You can use this on a picnic table but you cannot ever put a spar varnish on top of a deck stain.
We applied this product as recommended in sept 2012. Looked great for the first month, but then had ~30% of the deck peel over winter (by Feb 2013). Not sure what has gone wrong as we followed all instructions re preparation.
SPC, that does not seem correct. Peeling happens when a stain is unable to soak into the wood and dries on top of the wood instead. How old was the wood before you applied the stain? How did you prep? Defy is a penetrating stain so this should not have happened after such a short period of time.
I purchased the cedar (5/4X6) in June, it sat in the drive for a month before I installed it. After installation it sat for another month un-prepped (it was dry during this period) before I used the defy wood cleaner to clean the wood. I then waited 2 d to ensure the wood had dried from the cleaning and applied the stain. I was originally going to go with a behr stain but after reading the reviews on this site opted for the defy. I used the behr product as trim on the margins of the deck and on the edges of planters and seating-it came through the winter unscathed which makes me think there isn't a problem with the wood.
SPC, Defy suggests waiting 3-6 months to let the wood weather after it is installed. In addition they suggest using the Defy Hardwood Stain for cedar wood as it penetrates better. Most likely the cause of the issue.
Hmmm, interesting: this is from their product sheet: "New cedar should be cleaned and stained as
quickly as possible to avoid damage from the sun and rain." https://www.defyextremestain.com/pdf/extreme-wood-…
did I miss something here?
SPC, strange as they also say to wait 3-6 months for \”oil\” rich woods which they personally consider cedar an oil rich wood. That is why the suggest using the Defy Stain of Hardwoods for cedar decking. It is confusing and I see your point. Might want to contact SaverSystems for help.
Not sure if it helps, but some sections happened to be covered through the winter and they look great, it was only where the defy stained sections were open to the elements that I had a problem.
This is an awesome website with a ton of info on the different stains available. I am still torn between going with a water based stain vs. an oil base. I am nearly finished sanding a 10+ (who knows) year old PT deck down to the fresh looking wood. There is also a cedar arbor I am power washing that sits above a pressed concrete patio. I am concerned about using an oil based product on the arbor because of the possibility that it might get onto the concrete (even with a tarp in place). I am also concerned that a water based stain will be difficult to reapply in the future. The other factor is the age of the deck. It is has been neglected for a few years and required deep sanding. The wood seems dry and leads me to think that an oil based product will rejuvenate the wood. Based on these things do you recommend oil or water based? Thanks for your help!
Thanks Sean!
With the stain getting on the concrete it does not matter if it is water based or oil. Either way it would stain it so just tarp extremely well. Based on the dryness of the wood, we would apply the Armstrong Clark stain to this.
Ok will do. I have one more question. I used 120 grit sandpaper to finish off an area of the deck to reduce (hopefully eliminate) the splintering of the wood. I read somewhere that using 120 will make the wood so smooth that it will reduce the ability of the wood to absorb a stain. Do I need to go over this area with a courser grit to open up the wood? After putting so much time into the prep I want to make sure the staining goes smoothly. I need a two year break after this! Thanks!
Sean, spot sanding will result in a lighter stain penetration. If you sanded just part of the floor, then stained it all, you would have a spotted funny looking deck. I would sand it all lightly with 60 grit then go over with a deck cleaner to remove the sand dust.
I took your advice on the Armstrong Clark stain and I could not be happier. The deck looks awesome! Thanks a million for the website you provided and the feedback.
Sean, you are welcome!
Kevin, actually both work great on cedar fences and can be sprayed as well. If it is \”rough\” cedar, you can apply the stain right away.
I live in Green Mts. Vermont. Deck has Northern exposure made from western red cedar. Grass in this area turns to moss. First product I tried 10 years ago was Wood Iron. Mold started growing after 2 weeks. Since then I save sanded everything off twice. Permacheck product I now use looks awful, but no mold. I am considering TWP 100 possibly w/ Defy extreme. I also considering Cabot Australian Timber Oil w/ Defy Extreme Clear over the top. Comments/ recommendations appreciated.
Bruce, you cannot but Defy Extreme Clear on top of another stain. It is not designed for that. I would look at the TWP 1500 or Defy Extreme for this. Make sure to prep the wood properly.
Thanks for providing such a helpful web site. I live in hot and humid Baton Rouge, Louisiana and have a 10+year-old deck in full-sun. It hasn't been maintained for about 4 years, and has turned completely gray with a few patches of black mold and water stains, and a few places where the wood is separating. I'm looking to clean and seal it with non-toxic products (it's next to an herb garden). Once I've got it cleaned, I'd like to keep the look of the natural wood, as opposed to an opaque stain.
In reviewing potential products, my inclination is to go with the Restore-A-Deck Cleaner & Brightener and Defy Extreme Stain in Natural Pine. Two questions: (1) Are these products the best to use, and if not, what are? (2) What is the best way to address the separating/ splintering areas, and if replacing the wood/sanding is involved, how would that affect applying the products? Thanks!
Kathleen, for your scenario and wanting to using Eco-friendly products, your choices would be what we would suggest. I would clean and prep the wood the lightly use a pole sand to smooth any splinters. I would only suggest replacing boards if they are rotten. The new boards will not match the old boards when stained.
I am so confused with deck stains. Hopefully you can help me. I am located in southeastern Pennsylvania. I have a north west facing cedar deck that is about two years old. We originally treated the deck with the water based cwf semi-transparent. I have been very unsatisfied with the durability of this product. All the high traffic areas are almost completely worn away. There is a ton of algae growing on the steps. Part of the deck including the steps gets virtually no sun as it is shaded by the house. The rest of the deck gets a good amount of full sun in the summer. To complicate matters further a tree fell on the deck during hurricane sandy and half of it was destroyed. So now I have a deck that is half new and half old. What recommendations do you have for me? I have been considering the TWP 1500 but would really like to stay away from oil based. I am also considering the defy extreme. Help!
Jules, many water based deck stains will not penetrate well into the wood. That is why they are more prone to peeling. Defy Stains are water based and they do penetrate better then any other water based stain that we have tested. Preparation is key though as you must remove all the old stain first. Two coats wet on wet should work well for the Defy Extreme.
I just finished building a pergola and railing with tigerwood and rough sawn cedar. I live in the San Francisco area and am trying to decide on the best stain to use. I was originally thinking of using Defy Hardwood on both, but the product sheet recommends Defy Epoxy Fortified for rough sawn lumber. Since Defy Extreme is an upgraded version of this should I use Defy Extreme on the cedar and Defy Hardwood on the tigerwood? How should the new wood be prepped for staining? Should I stain now or wait? If waiting is recommended, how long? Also, which shade of stain will yield the closest end result to the original wood color?
David, The Defy Hardwood in the Natural Pine color would be best for this railing and pergola. If brand new you should probably wait until Spring time.
Hello,
We live in Chicago and are just finishing new construction with cedar trim and siding. If the weather stays above 50 should we stain now or wait til spring. I am concerned that the winter will weather the wood more than we would like. I could stain most of it inside before it goes up. However, I read that with new wood one should wait several months. Can you clarify what is best. What would you suggest Defy or TWP1500? Thanks
Barb, New wood should weather for a few months. I would wait and clean/stain in the Springtime. Both TWP and Defy Extreme would be great choices for this.
Your website is a great resource. One week ago I just had put up 150 linear feet of 6-foot tall new cedar fence with PT posts. We live in Massachusetts so we get humid summers and snowy winters. Fence is in shaded area, under trees, so gets filtered light and may get some mildew. I want to protect wood from water damage , but let color gray naturally. I don't mind superficial mildew that can be sprayed off. 80 feet of fence sits next to property line and, even though we are friendly with neighbor, don't want to be trampling through their yard several times a year to reapply sealer. So I am looking for a clear coat sealer that will last a year or so and is easy to reapply (hopefully just recoat), without stripping down or bleaching the previous coat. I read good things about Defy Extreme Clear here, but product sounds finicky to apply and tough to remove necessary. I also what I read about Armstrong Clark product, but, again, how hard is it to maintain. Also, how urgent is it to seal the fence at this time: We are entering wetter season and expect a week of rain from hurricane Sandy, so fence may be exposed to weather for three weeks.
Jay, You definitely want a tint in your stain. Best is a semi-transparent stain that penetrates into the wood so it can be cleaned and reapplied as needed every few years or so. I would use Defy Extreme in Natural Pine or TWP 1500 in Honeytone or Natural. Is this \”rough\” cedar fencing?
I'll be using Defy Extreme on table tops made of African Padauk. Would it be possible or advisable to then put on a topcoat of lacquer?
John, I would not do that. Putting a lacquer on top of any exterior deck stain while result in peeling.
I'm planning to install western red cedar T&G siding on an addition in Toronto, Canada. I'm planning to stain both sides of the siding indoors before installation next spring. Should I buy the siding now and let it rest in the house over the winter before staining with Defy Extreme or should I buy the siding in the spring and stain with Cabot Timber Oil and then stain it again before the winter with Defy Extreme for durability?
Bryan, I would not do all sides before installing and you should not apply Defy on top of Cabot. For best results you should install, let weather for a few months, clean and brighten the wood, then stain with the Defy.
I really appreciate this site! I am in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada in California. We get very hot dry summers. Almost no rain for half the year, lots of full sun. Then the rest of the year it rains a lot, and for about two months it can rain half the days or more. Occasionally it might rain almost every day for weeks. We had a cedar deck, but at this point we are thinking of putting down outdoor carpeting, so the issue is the railing–also cedar. There are 4 X 4 vertical posts, with 2 X 4 supports and a 2 X 6 rail. We are thinking about refurbishing the posts and replacing all the rails, which have a lot of splitting, deterioration and rough wood, as we have not put anything on the wood in 10 years. Also, the posts are MUCH harder to replace, but they are mostly in good shape, if cleaned. With all this mix of old and new wood, and extreme climate differences, I am wondering what to do after reading ALL the comments on this page, and some on other pages. Here are the choices I see:
*Sanding down the 4 X 4 posts, vs. cleaning, bleaching and/or pressure washing them (maybe followed by very light sanding?) before staining.
*Despite the posts being cedar, we have considered switching to redwood for the new rails, for what might be a nicer look and hold up better — so, cedar vs. redwood rail mixed with cedar posts?
*Use Armstrong Clark, TWP 1500 or Defy Extreme, or ?? and when to apply? Actually, it looks to me like TWP 1500 might be the best choice, but I guess I could not apply that right away on new wood. If so, would I wait till spring, and then clean the wood first before applying?
*I have not even considered using anything but transparent, but maybe I would be better off using a color stain to get a nicer look, particularly with the combination of woods. The top board of the railing takes a beating with the sun. We thought that redwood would hold up better than cedar there.
Sorry for so much complexity–can you help?
Thanks, Michael
Michael,
1. Clean and brighten the posts then lightly sand if needed.
2. Either would be fine as even if you stick with cedar, new wood does not match old wood so their will be a color difference.
3. Armstrong Clark. It is made in your area, works very well on new and older wood. Apply in Spring would be best.
4. Semi-transparent\’s are best.
5. Cedar and redwood hold up the same.
Hi, and thanks so much for your response to my questions. I've been pondering your #3 answer, that Armstrong Clark is made in my area. I'm not sure what you meant by that. On their web site, it says they are in Michigan, and I could not locate any dealers in California on their web site. Is there any way I can find a dealer here in CA? I probably only need one gallon, so better if I could get in somewhere in the Sacramento area.
Michael
Michael, Armstrong Clark stain is made in Long Barn, CA. I think you went to a dealer site and not the manufacturer site.
Sorry about that. I did locate the manufacturer just this morning, and phoned them. They have a dealer within 1/2 hour from me in Auburn, CA. By the way, we sanded all the posts considerably, and took them down to new-looking wood. All the verticals members of the railing will be cedar, and the horizontals, top and bottom and cap, will be beautiful "B" grade redwood with a mix of red and white wood. I will probably use Armstrong Clark semi-transparent Sequoia Redwood stain.
Michael
Michael, sounds good!
Which Defy would you recommend for an ten year old PTW deck that faces north. Half gets sun and half never sees the sun. It was black with mold but I've got it pretty well restored with Restore-a-Deck and brightener. Okay to stain in October?
Kelly, I would use the Defy Extreme for PTP. The Natural Pine color would give a nice golden color. Should be okay to stain if in the 50\’s of higher.
Am in Columbia, SC. Just replaced all deck boards with Pressure Treated Premium Pine about a month ago. About 350 sq ft. Am about to prep by cleaning with bleaching using a pressure sprayer. We want a water-based semi-transparent light colored stain. What stain do you recommend? Thanks.
Jeff B, Defy Extreme but I would wait until Spring to do it. New PTP needs to dry for a few months before staining.
Live in Southeastern Michigan and have not found that TWP lasts much more than 1-1.5 yrs in terms of fading and maintaining water beading. Have used a Sikkens product in Northwestern Michigan on Lake Michigan waterfront deck and it still is working out well at 3 yrs. Would you recommend Defy Extreme over TWP in SE Michigan, or should I consider a Sikkens product?
Reid, beading water is not important when it comes to deck stains. You do not want the wood to be 100% water repellent. You want the stain to be able to allow the wood to breathe otherwise it can cause dry rot and such. TWP and Defy hold up very well in our tests, about 2 years when it comes to color retention on a deck. Sikkens is not a favorite of ours but if it worked for you and you like it then you should stick with it.
Could not get TWP here in Canada so I went with this product instead… ease of application 3/10. Just like painting with water: drippy, runny, ultra fast drying. Did a poor job on my cedar deck I just spent countless hours sanding. Blotchy look, I hate it.
Patrick, sorry to hear. Defy as it is water based and will dry faster then an oil. This is normal for any water based stain. You need to apply quickly. As for the blotchiness, this could be the result of the sanding. We do not suggest sanding for prepping unless needed. If the sanding is not done completely even, then the stain will dry blotchy. This goes for any brand of stain.
Thank you for taking the time to make this site. I have a brand new rooftop deck made from Western Red Cedar on top of a 4 story building – it's going to see sun basically all the time. It's very hot during the summer and will get cold in the winter. It also has railings which need to be treated. We love the look of the cedar by itself, but are thinking it will fade very quickly if we do any type of clear stain. I'm wondering if you would go with the TWP 1500 for protection vs. the Defy Extreme because of the ease of application or if you have other suggestions? It's very sunny and we are worried that the wet on wet application would be near impossible w/a fast drying stain.
Justin, When using Defy or TWP you should wait a few months or longer to stain new wood. TWP actually suggest waiting 4-12 months. If you want to stain right away then you could use Timber Oil Brand. If you wait a month or two then you could try Armstrong Clark. as for ease of application in hot sun, oil based stains are better. Armstrong can be applied in direct sunlight.
How did the stain hold up? After what time span
I have a brand new cedar deck. South facing in Minnesota (Hot and cold!). It will have a hot tub on it so the surface will be wet. What's the best product for my situation?
Ken, for new wood we like Armstrong Clark or Timber Oil.
We had a cedar deck built about 6 months ago and would like to use the Defy Extreme buit you seem to recommend the Armstrong Clark or Timer Oil instead for new wood.
Would you consider our deck new wood? What would we use in 1 or 2 yrs to treat the wood? Would we have to stripe to apply something else?
Don Marlo, Being that the deck is now 6 months old it should be okay to stain as long as you prep first with a wood cleaner and a wood brightener. I would go ahead with the Extreme (only 1 coat) and apply another of the same as needed in the future.
i have new deck of PTW and live in chicago area. the deck is on west.i was wondering should i apply stain now or wait a year? also i was convinced oil based was better. was leaning towards TWP1500 or flood . now im thinking about defy. what would you recommend?
George, for new wood we suggest the Armstrong Clark Stain if doing this year. If you wait until next Spring then either the Defy Extreme or the TWP 1500 would be good choices.
Which stain would you recommend for vertical surfaces. I have a board and batten Larch shed that needs to be sealed. This wold be the first application for the building. The location is western NY, and the building see full to partial sunny throughout the year. Thanks!
Jason
Jason, for the shed I would look at TWP 1500.
i have a covered deck i need to restain again. the covered part looks good, but the parts that received sun need a another coating. what prep work is needed to restain it. i used a defy deck stain and put on a wet on wet application or second coat. was very pleased with the product 8 years ago. Thanks!
Scooby, I would strip it all down and start over with a new coat of Defy. This will make sure it is all even in appearance.
Just sanded a redwood deck and have been trying to decide on a product. Sunny southern calif, not much rain. The deck gets sun most of the day. Would love a suggestion. Also other then sanding is there anything else I should do? Thanks for any help you can give me. Kenny
Kenny, you should clean and brighten the wood after the sanding to help the stain to absorb better. I would look at TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark.
Tinted stain ? stain thats not clear? How long after cleaning and brightening should I apply stain? Thank you
Art, yes a transparent but tinted color such as Natural Pine, Cedartone, etc. After prepping you should wait at least 24-48 hours before staining.
My deck is in direct sun and is now gray. Will this product bring natural color back to the wood or will it stay gray after applying product?
Art, you would need to clean and brighten the wood to bring back natural color then apply a tinted stain to prolong the graying for a couple of years.
We have a redwood deck that was treated with OneTimeWood 2 years ago, and we'd like to switch to a different product. We're not happy with how the OneTimeWood finish has lasted, it's mostly worn off already. We live in a cool, rainy coastal climate in northern California. Would Defy be a good option for this deck? Do we have to remove the OneTimeWood before switching to another brand? I so, how do we remove it?
Vanessa, yes you would need to remove the OneTime first with a stain stripper such as Restore-A-Deck stain Stripper. You would then need to apply a brightener to neutralize. As for a stain, Defy Extreme is an excellent choice. Might want to look at TWP 1500 as well.
Can you provide comments on Wolmans deck stain? How does it compare/rate to Defy? I found Wolmans to be very easy to apply, great color consistency, very easy clean up and looks beautiful. I have a 2×6 redwood deck. problem is that it fades very quickly. It last 2years at best. I live in Colorado and maybe that is the best I can hope foe? Furthermore, it is very cost effective. Thanks!
George Moore, We have rated the Wolman Durastain
We will be rating the Wolman F&P later this year as it comes up for the 2 year mark.
Defy has outperformed them in our opinion.
I was planning to use Defy natural pine or clear on my one year old PTW deck with full sun exposure in Indiana. It appears that you recommend Armstrong Clark for newer, previously untreated applications. Could you please provide some insight as to why one is a better choice for this application. Thanks in advance.
Eric, newer wood is not absorbent and some stain will penetrate better then others into new wood. If you wanted to use a Defy stain then the Defy Hardwood would be best for new wood as it penetrates better then the Epoxy version.
I have a new PTW deck and I have been reviewing your site. Very interesting reading BTW. I am considering using the Defy Extreme over the TWP 1500 primarily because it is water based. Unfortunately, Defy only has 3 colors, but of primary concern to me is resistance to splitting. Deck will get morning sun -East facing. Either of these better in that regard? Also, on the Defy website it says that the hardwood product should be used over the Extreme. Any thoughts on that?
Ray, It is virtually impossible to stop slitting of the wood. Both the TWP and the Defy should help prevent this but neither will stop this. For PTP you should use the Defy Extreme according to the manufacturer.
Thanks for the reply, but as I reread my post I noticed that I didn't write it very clearly. Regarding the information on the Defy website it says that for new pressure treated wood the Defy Hardwood should be use instead of the Extreme. Their reasoning is that new PTW has a tighter grain from manufacturing and the Hardwood stain has a smaller molecular size (than the Extreme product)which allows it to penetrate deeper into hardwoods and new PTW. It also states that one coat should be applied to new PTW. Most of this is in the FAQ. Just wanted to know what you thought about this considering you experience.
Ray M, I understand now. I would go with their suggestion and use the Hardwood version of Defy. It does penetrate better.
We have had a very negative experience with your Defy Deck stain. We prepared our deck as directed ( had no previous stain) and applied your stain. Over winter and into spring the stain peeled and washed away in spots. It is ugly and we are unhappy. We feel we should get our money back.
Trudy, Defy is not \”our\” stain, we just write reviews from our experience and let others share their experience. I would contact the manufacturer for help with this. I would suspect that if your Defy peeled then either the wood was not prepped properly or the stain was not applied properly (over applied). Basically if the stain cannot penetrate into the wood due to either then it could have issues.
Did you let the new deck boards "cure" (left the raw, new boards totally alone with absolutly nothing on it paint or stain wise for 12 months before preparing and staining the deck boards, very minimum to wait is 4 month, no, not 2 or 3 1/2 months, 4 months MINIMUM!. Very, very, very important to do. Sometimes by a miracle, pressure treated wood is stained sooner and looks great…this is because 1. It sat in a dry, heated warehouse for minimum of 4 months and not in the lumber outside yard for ANY time. 2. It's like burning wood in a fireplace, it needs to sit for a year and THEN used. I know, it looks dry BUT IT'S NOT. If you're desperate to stain before 4 months, get a Water Moisture Meter minimum $80 for one that works well. The site below or Google info on "proper moisture content in deck boards before staining".
"Many problems associated with deck staining or deterioration can be traced to the original moisture content of the lumber.
Look for the mark to be sure what you’re getting. Grade marks, such as the ones on these two pieces of pressure-treated lumber, indicate the maximum moisture content of the wood, which is information that’s good to know if you’re going to use the wood to build a deck. Some pressure-treated wood will carry two marks, one from the mill and one from the pressure treated."
You declare the new deck boards should cure for 12 months, but this does not hold true. We were very proud of the deck after Defy was applied. We followed all directions from the company to prepare the wood. Some of the boards were recently replaced, some had been there for a year and some for a year and a half. The product failed in less than 6 months on all three types of boards. It was perfect weather when we applied the product, but we have had a very wet winter. The product has washed off of all the exposed areas of the deck. It no longer beads up. We are going to contact the manufacturer for advise, but since we followed directions exactly we cannot advise anyone in the Pacific Northwest to use this product!!!
This is not normal with Defy Extreme stain. Did you use the tinted version or the clear? Just an FYI, beading water is a myth with a deck stain and is not important. You want the wood to breathe and not 100% seal the wood.
Any thoughts on applying one coat of the Defy Hardwood Stain followed by a coat of the Defy Extreme Clear? I'm interested in the protective properties of the Extreme, but somewhat concerned about the difficult application. This will be for a new redwood deck in central coast California (fog, light rain, lots of sunshine).
Adrian, it sounds like a bad idea but I am not sure. It would be best to ask the manufacturer on this to make sure.
I have a new pressure treated deck. I have a small dog that urinates on the deck. What is the best stain to use so the urine does not penetrate? Thanks!
Laurie, I really do not think a deck stain will stop the the urine from penetrating or causing problems to the stain. The urine will most likely cause the stain to fail if done repeatedly.
Training the dog will be the only real solution.
I treated my deck three years with Duck-something.
It is now gray and ugly. Would this product offer more longevity?
The deck is mostly covered but I live in heavy snow conditions.
Thank you.
Kay, Most likely that was SuperDeck that you used. The Defy Extreme should hold out better.
I have the Defy Epoxy fortified stain on deck now…..retreat every two years should I switch to the Defy Extreme the next time I recoat my deck? I hear alot of good things about onetimewood also was thinking of switching to this the next time I recoat.
RJMitt, The Defy Extreme will offer slightly better UV protection then the Epoxy. Did you read the review on the OneTime? I would not use it.
deck was treated in 2007 w/Behr premium weatherproofing stain, began to fail immediately, now really needs help. Is high bank waterfront on river in WA state where it rain a LOT! Is vacation rental home so can't use product that will make the deck slippery when wet, what do you suggest?
The Defy Extreme is not slippery as it soaks into the wood and does not lie on top of the wood. Make sure the old Behr is removed first!
I was reading that wood should not have a hard coating thus allowing it to expand and contract. Does the Defy create a hard coating? Does it allow the wood to breathe?
John Taylor, Defy is a penetrating wood stain that does not film or harden on top of the surface. It does allow it to breathe.
Recently, I applied Defy Extreme Stain to a new deck in Michigan built with treated red pine 2 x 4s. On the plus side, it seems to have superior protective properties, and the "natural oak" version I used produced a rich-looking, almost honey-colored finish. On the minus side, Defy Extreme is tricky to apply evenly because it is very drippy on vertical boards (has a water-like consistency), which can make it necessary to re-brush each board as it dries. Also, because it dries fast and resists a second coat when dry (beads up), lap marks, bead spots, and drip spots are hard to avoid. Overall, though, I'd be inclined to use it again. Two tips for making the application easier: Use a good quality natural bristle brush because synthetic bristles are two or three times as drippy; also, use a mini roller to stain the sides of closely spaced vertical boards used to make benches, if you have them.
Thanks for the tips! We found that you do indeed need to apply this product fairly fast as it soaks in very deeply and dries quicker then most stains.
I agree with M.H.'s comments on the difficulty of applying Defy Extreme stain. My 2 decks are 8 years old made of 2×4 cedar boards. After a laborous/thorough prep: sanded off old semi-transparent oil stain, cleaned w/ oxygenated cleaners, stripped the missed spots w/ stain remover, brightened, and finish sanded with 80 grit. I initially tried a pad applicator but found the cedar toned Defy extrememly drippy. Once it dripped on, it's almost impossible to blend in w/ a later coat. I quickly switched to a synthetic bristle brush, but still found difficult to avoid lap/brush marks. The color difference between the 1st and 2nd coat was significant even if the 2nd coat was applied when visibly wet. Compared w/ the oil based stain I used before, the water based Defy seemed to be less absorbant and more difficult to blend to achieve a uniform appearance. About 2 gallons were enough for me to cover about 400 sf, probably because cedar is less absorbant than treated wood and of the use of a brush. On the positive side, I liked the low VOC and ease of cleaning with just water. I'm looking forward to observing the durability and ease of maintenance/reapplication in the coming years.
Sleepless, we have found that when applying the Defy you do need to move pretty quick. We use stains pads to apply and do two coats wet on wet to achieve a uniform appearance.
What about Charlotte north carolina which stain would you recommend for my area
I have a 10 year old deck treated 5 years ago
Marsha
Marsha, for NC I would look at Defy Extreme of Armstrong Clark.
Marsha,
If you are still following this thread, can you let me know what you used and how it has withstood the past few years?
Curious from Charlotte
I appreciate your great reviews, but need a little more direction for climate conditions, with the understanding that it is your personal opinion. With all options open, which would you consider best suited for sunny, dry conditions year-round: the water-based defy extreme, oil-based TWP 100 series or TWP 1500 series. The reviews on the Defy are outstanding, and I love the easy clean-up, but would prefer longevity.
Sunburned in CO, for dry decks I would look towards oil based stains as they oil will help condition internally. I would look at Armstrong Clark and TWP 1500.
You could use the Defy Extreme and it would perform very well.
I'm in Southern California desert. Real dry and direct sun. What product would be best for my area. Note: railing only.
TWP 1500 or the Defy Extreme.
what does "wet on wet" application mean?
Apply the first coat then reapply the second coat right away while the first coat has not dried.
Could you give us a 3-yr update on Defy Extreme Stain? Sounded pretty good at 2 yrs …
We're in Coastal British Columbia, lots of summer sun and winter rain. Thanks
Miko, the deck with the Defy Extreme was cleaned lightly and re-coated last year after we looked at it.
[…] Defy Extreme Clear Wood Stain is an “untinted” version of the Defy Extreme Stain. Clear wood deck stains traditionally will not last as long as a stain that has a tint when it […]