This post was updated on April 7, 2026
Hi, I’m Scott Paul, a seasoned exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of expertise in exterior wood care. This article is one of my favorites because it breaks down all the different deck stains available, giving you the insights you need to make an informed choice. If you’re researching wood and decking stains, this is a must-read. Learn more about me here.
What Type of Stain Should You Use on Your Deck?
Choosing the right deck stain comes down to selecting a high-quality product that suits your deck’s condition and meets your specific needs. One of the most important factors to consider is the stain’s transparency or opacity, which ranges from clear, transparent, semi-transparent, semi-solid, to solid finishes.
✅ What Are the Different Types of Deck Stains? (Quick Answer)
Deck stains are categorized by how much pigment they contain and how they interact with the wood. The four main types are:
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- Clear Sealers – No pigment = no UV protection from graying
- Transparent stains – Minimal color, show full wood grain, lowest protection
- Semi-transparent stains – Add light color while allowing grain to show, best balance of protection and appearance
- Semi-solid stains – More pigment, better UV protection, partially hide wood grain
- Solid color stains – Fully opaque, maximum coverage but highest maintenance
- Oil-Based stains – Deeper penetration than water-based stains
- Water-based stains – Eco-Friendly and water cleanup
- Penetrating stains – Easier to maintain and prep
- Filming stains – Prone to peeling
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Oil-based stains typically outperform water-based options in terms of penetration and durability, though they often come at a higher cost and with fewer color options. However, water-based stains may be more eco-friendly and easier to clean up.
When selecting a stain, consider your local climate. If your deck is exposed to a lot of direct sunlight, opt for a product with strong UV protection. For damp or humid regions, choose a stain with mildew-resistant properties. Also, check your state’s environmental regulations to ensure the product complies with VOC restrictions.
By choosing the right stain for your deck, you’ll not only enhance its appearance but also ensure it stays protected for years to come.
✅ How to Choose the Right Deck Stain Type
Choosing the correct deck stain type depends on your specific situation:
- New Wood:
Transparent or semi-transparent stains allow the natural beauty of the wood to show. - Older Wood:
Semi-solid or solid stains help hide imperfections. - High UV Exposure:
Semi-solid or solid stains provide better sun protection. - Low Maintenance Preference:
Semi-transparent penetrating stains are the easiest to maintain over time.
Understanding the Different Types of Deck Stains
Over the past 30+ years, I’ve worked with countless deck stain brands and types. Having tried them all, I’ve seen some excellent options—and others that didn’t hold up to their promises. While the landscape of deck stains has evolved due to changing manufacturers and stricter VOC laws, there are still top-quality options available in 2026. The key is knowing where to look.
Deck stains have come a long way since the early 1990s. Many manufacturers have shifted from oil-based to water-based formulas, but oil-based stains are still permitted for use across all U.S. states and Canada. With my team restoring 300-400 decks annually, my personal go-to options remain penetrating semi-transparent and semi-solid stains for their durability and natural finish.
In this guide, I’ll break down the various types of deck stains, compare their pros and cons, and help you make an informed decision on the best option for your deck.
See My List of the Top 8 Best Deck Stains
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Scott’s Steps To Understanding Deck Stains
- Watch my video that explains the different deck stains available
- Water-Based Deck Stains
- Oil-Based Deck Stains
- Deck Resurface Coatings
- Solid Color Stains
- Semi-Solid Deck Stains
- Semi-Transparent Deck Stain
- Transparent Deck Stains
- Clear Deck Sealers
- VOC Laws and what does that mean?
- Read Common Deck Stain Questions
- My Best Deck Stain Suggestions
Deck Stain Type Comparison Chart
-See below for full in-depth differences and descriptions for each.
| Stain Type | Appearance | Durability | Ease of Application | Maintenance | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Clear / Wood Toner | Natural wood grain visible, slight tone | ★☆☆☆☆ (1 year) | ★★★★☆ | Easy recoating | Newer wood, cedar, or if you want a natural look |
| Semi-Transparent | Enhances wood grain with color | ★★★★☆ (2–3 years) | ★★★★☆ | Moderate – light cleaning | Most deck types needing color & UV protection |
| Semi-Solid | Less grain visibility, more pigment | ★★★★☆ (2–4 years) | ★★★☆☆ | May require stripping, but varies based on brand | Older decks or those needing more color |
| Solid (Opaque) | Paint-like look, hides grain | ★★★☆☆ (1–3 years) | ★★☆☆☆ | Difficult – sanding/stripping | Very old wood or previously painted/stained decks |
Notes:
- UV protection improves as opacity increases.
- Durability may vary depending on prep, wood condition, and climate.
- Darker or richer colors provide better UV protection with semi-transparent and semi-solid colors.
- Penetrating stains are easier to maintain as they have less chance of peeling and flaking.
Penetrating vs Film-Forming Deck Stains
- Penetrating stains (transparent & semi-transparent):
- Soak into wood
- Do not peel
- Easier maintenance
- Film-forming stains (solid):
- Sit on surface
- Can peel over time
- Require more prep
👉 This is a high-volume keyword gap most sites miss
Explaining the Types of Deck Stains Video
Watch my video on all the different deck stains sold today. This is one of my more informative videos, and it will help you narrow down what is best for you and your deck.
Water-Based Wood Deck Stains
Water-Based Wood Deck Stains
Water-based deck stains have risen rapidly in the last 8-10 years. The main reason for the vast number of water-based stains on the market today is related to changes in VOC laws across the country. Many states have adopted or will adopt lower VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) regulations, which has prompted stain manufacturers to increase the production of water-soluble decking stains. Water-based deck stains are “thin” paints with varying amounts of acrylic and pigment. Most water-based deck stain brands have a high failure rate, but a few great options exist.
✅ Water-Based Deck Stains (Acrylic Coatings)
- Appearance: Natural to slightly enhanced color (varies by opacity)
- Wood Grain: Visible in transparent and semi-transparent versions
- Protection Level: Good UV resistance and water repellency
- Best For: Newer wood, maintenance coats, and areas with strict VOC regulations
- Maintenance: Moderate—easier than solid stains but not as forgiving as oil-based
Water-based deck stains use acrylic resins to bond to the wood surface while still allowing some penetration. They are known for faster drying times, easier cleanup, and better color retention compared to traditional oil-based coatings.
They are available in transparent, semi-transparent, semi-solid, and solid colors, making them versatile for many applications.
👉 When to Use a Water-Based Deck Stain
- You want faster drying times and easier application
- You are working in an area with VOC restrictions
- The deck is newer or in good condition
- You want better UV color retention over time
⚠️ Downsides of Water-Based Stains
- Do not always penetrate as deeply as oil-based stains. *Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains and Defy Wood Stains are the only exceptions I have used successfully. They penetrate the best of all water-based stains, nearly as well as an oil.
- Can be less forgiving during application (lap marks possible)
- May require more prep for proper adhesion
- Slightly harder to recoat than penetrating oil stains
🔍 Water-Based vs Oil-Based Deck Stains
- Water-Based Stains:
- Faster drying and easier cleanup
- Better UV color retention
- Lower VOC content
- Oil-Based Stains:
- Deeper penetration into wood
- Easier long-term maintenance
- More natural aging and wear
🧠 Expert Tip
Expert Tip: Water-based stains perform best on properly prepped wood. If the surface is not cleaned and brightened correctly, adhesion issues can occur.
My Pros: Water cleanup, less chance of mold or mildew growth. Environmentally friendly.
My Cons: They do not penetrate as well as an oil-based product can. They are slightly more complicated to apply as they dry quickly. They can be prone to peeling and wearing. *Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains and Defy Wood Stains are the only exceptions I have used successfully. They penetrate the best of all water-based stains, nearly as well as an oil.
Oil-based Wood Deck Stains
Oil Based DeckStain
Oil-based decking stains have been around for 30-40 years and have traditionally been what all stain manufacturers produce. Oil-based stains are typically made up of natural and synthetic oils. Many contain oils, such as Linseed Oil, Paraffin Oil, Tung Oil, Rosewood Oil, Etc.
✅ Oil-Based Deck Coatings (Penetrating Oil Stains)
- Appearance: Natural-looking finish that enhances wood grain
- Wood Grain: Visible (varies by transparency level)
- Protection Level: Excellent water resistance, moderate UV protection (with pigment)
- Best For: Most exterior wood decks, especially older or weathered wood
- Maintenance: Easy—can be cleaned and recoated without heavy stripping
Oil-based deck coatings are designed to penetrate deep into the wood fibers, helping to protect from moisture while enhancing the natural look of the wood. Unlike film-forming coatings, they do not sit on the surface, which means they are far less likely to peel or crack over time.
They are commonly available in transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid versions, depending on how much pigment is added.
👉 When to Use an Oil-Based Deck Coating
- You want a natural wood appearance with enhanced grain
- The deck is older or has been previously stained
- You prefer easy maintenance and recoating
- You want a coating that is less likely to peel
⚠️ Downsides of Oil-Based Coatings
- Slower drying times compared to water-based products
- Can attract mildew in humid or shaded areas
- VOC restrictions in some states may limit availability
- Requires proper application to avoid over-penetration or darkening
🔍 Oil-Based vs Water-Based Deck Coatings
- Oil-Based Coatings:
- Deeper penetration into wood
- Easier to maintain and reapply
- Rich, natural finish
- Water-Based Coatings:
- Faster drying
- Better UV resistance retention
- Lower VOC and easier cleanup
🧠 Expert Tip
Expert Tip: Oil-based penetrating stains are typically the easiest coatings to maintain long-term since they wear naturally instead of peeling like film-forming products.
My Pros: Excellent penetration into the wood. The better a deck stain can penetrate, the better its performance. It is also easier to apply and more natural-looking.
My Cons: Stronger odors, longer drying, and curing time. Some oils can promote the growth of mildew. Some oil-based stains will darken in color over time.
Deck Resurface Coatings
✅ Deck Resurfacing Coatings (Restoration Coatings)
- Appearance: Thick, opaque coating that fills cracks and hides wood grain
- Wood Grain: Not visible
- Protection Level: High surface protection, seals and bridges damaged areas
- Best For: Severely weathered, splintered, or structurally sound but worn decks
- Maintenance: Moderate to high—can peel or wear unevenly over time
Deck resurfacing coatings are designed to restore old or damaged wood by creating a thick protective layer over the surface. Unlike traditional stains that penetrate into the wood, these coatings sit on top and are formulated to fill cracks, lock down splinters, and provide a uniform appearance.
They are often much thicker than solid stains and are sometimes marketed as “deck restore” or “deck resurfacer” products.
👉 When to Use a Deck Resurfacing Coating
- The deck is heavily weathered, splintering, or rough
- Previous coatings have failed and the surface is uneven
- You want to extend the life of the deck without replacing boards
- The wood is still structurally sound but cosmetically worn
⚠️ Downsides of Resurfacing Coatings
- Can peel or crack over time, especially in high-traffic areas
- Difficult to remove once applied
- Requires extensive prep before application
- Not suitable for newer or healthy wood
🔍 Resurfacing Coatings vs Solid Deck Stains
- Resurfacing Coatings:
Thicker, designed to fill cracks and restore damaged wood - Solid Stains:
Thinner, provide color and protection but do not repair surface damage
🧠 Expert Tip
Expert Tip: Deck resurfacers can be a short-term solution for heavily worn decks, but they often require more maintenance and prep than penetrating stains. If the wood is still in decent shape, a penetrating stain is usually the better long-term option.
My Pros: Excellent UV protection, enhanced traction, and filling of voids and cracks. Restoring an older deck is an excellent idea if it works.
My Cons: So far, most of these product types have failed miserably. They peel after the first Winter and cannot be removed with a deck stain stripper. Sanding, scraping, or even the replacement of the wood is needed. There are many reviews on our site and other sites with angry consumers and product failures. Class action lawsuits are being filed against Rust-oleum Deck Restore and Olympic Rescue-It. Behr Deckover has the same issues as well. Only a couple of these products seem to work. Consider the Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive if you want one of these coatings. See this link for more info, articles, and reviews on these coatings: Deck Resurface Coatings.
Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive Photos
Solid Color Decking Stains (Opaque)
✅ Solid Color Deck Stains
- Appearance: Opaque (paint-like finish)
- Wood Grain: Hidden
- Protection Level: Maximum UV protection
- Best For: Very old or damaged wood
- Maintenance: High—prone to peeling and requires more prep
Solid deck stains look like paints but are thinner for better adhesion and penetration into the wood. They cover or mask the wood, so you will no longer see the wood grain. Once you apply a solid decking stain, there is little chance you will ever be able to go back to a transparent stain. Solid stains come in water-based versions only nowadays.
My Pros: Excellent UV protection.
My Cons: Films on top of the wood do not penetrate well, are susceptible to peeling, look like paint, and are more challenging to apply. They cannot be effectively removed with a deck stain stripper.
Solid Color Deck Stain Photos
Semi-Solid Wood Deck Stains
✅ Semi-Solid Deck Stains
- Appearance: Rich color, less grain visibility
- Wood Grain: Partially visible
- Protection Level: Higher UV protection
- Best For: Older decks with imperfections
- Maintenance: Moderate—can build up over time
A Semi-Solid Deck Stain will only show a small amount of wood grain as it contains a high amount of pigment. Only a limited number of manufacturers offer semi-solids, which can be both water-based and oil-based.
My Pros: They provide excellent UV protection. However, if they are water-based, they are prone to peeling. Look for oil-based semi-solid stains only.
My Cons: Only a tiny amount of wood grain will show. Oil-based semi-solid versions will penetrate and perform much better than water-based versions.
Semi-Solid Deck Stain Photos
Semi-Transparent Wood Deck Stains
✅ Semi-Transparent Deck Stains
- Appearance: Adds color while enhancing grain
- Wood Grain: Clearly visible
- Protection Level: Moderate UV and water protection
- Best For: Most decks
- Maintenance: Easy to clean and recoat every 2–3 years
These are my favorites, but the primary key is that it must be a penetrating semi-transparent stain. Semi-transparent deck stains contain pigments that highlight the natural grain while sealing the surface. Both water and oil-based are available.
My Pros: They offer average to better-than-average UV protection, show natural grain, and have very good penetration. In most scenarios, they can be cleaned and re-coated easily and removed with a deck stain stripper.
My Cons: Most water-based versions perform poorly compared to the oils. Many states with Low VOC laws have limited quality oil-based stains available. You may need to buy online if you live in a low VOC area.
Semi-Transparent Deck Stain Photos
Transparent Wood Deck Stains
✅ Transparent Deck Stains
- Appearance: Clear or very light tint
- Wood Grain: Fully visible
- Protection Level: Low UV protection
- Best For: New wood, premium hardwoods (ipe, mahogany)
- Maintenance: Requires frequent reapplication (annually in many cases)
Transparent deck coatings look the most natural as they contain minimal pigment. The average life of a transparent decking stain is about one year. Mostly oil-based only are available.
My Pros: Straightforward to apply and reapply as needed. Natural-looking.
My Cons: Below average UV protection. Typically, it needs to be re-coated annually.
Transparent Deck Stain Colors
Clear Wood Deck Finishes
Clear Deck Sealer
✅ Clear Wood Sealers (No Color Added)
- Appearance: Completely clear with no pigment
- Wood Grain: 100% visible (natural look)
- Protection Level: Low UV protection, good water repellency
- Best For: New wood, hardwoods (ipe, mahogany), and users wanting a natural, unstained look
- Maintenance: Requires frequent reapplication (often every 6–12 months)
Clear wood sealers are designed to protect the wood from water penetration while maintaining its natural color. Unlike transparent deck stains, they contain no added pigments, which means they offer little to no UV protection from the sun.
Because of this, wood sealed with a clear sealer will typically gray faster when exposed to sunlight compared to even lightly pigmented stains.
👉 When to Use a Clear Wood Sealer
- You want a completely natural, “no-color” appearance
- You want the wood to gray
- The deck is covered or has minimal direct UV exposure
- You are okay with more frequent maintenance
⚠️ Downsides of Clear Sealers
- No UV protection
- Faster graying in full sun
- More frequent maintenance than pigmented stains
My Pros: They do not change the appearance of the wood. They are extremely easy to apply.
My Cons: In months, the wood will gray and oxidize from the sun’s UV.
Low VOC Stains and States
Currently, 20 States and Canada restrict Decking Stains and Coatings. These states require fewer Volatile Organic Compounds to be released into the air. The lower VOC changes mainly affect oil-based coatings. By lowering the amount of “solvents” that can evaporate into the ozone, you need to increase the amount of “solids.” This can cause issues with oil-based stains, which may have drying and curing problems. A few good oil-based stains are still allowed in the Low VOC States but are not as readily available at your local stores. You may need to go online to find them and have them shipped. Examples would be the TWP 1500 Series and Armstrong Clark Wood Stains.
Current Low VOC States:
California, Colorado, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, New Hampshire, Vermont, Delaware, District of Columbia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Northern VA, Pennsylvania, Arizona, Ohio, Illinois, and Indiana.
Common Deck Stain Type Questions
What are Deck Stains, and Why Use Them?
Deck stains protect and preserve exterior wood. They offer UV protection, water repellency, mold and mildew resistance, and more. Deck coatings come in many types of opacity and bases. Based on their VOC laws, many deck stain brands can be restricted in certain states, cities, and countries, and unfortunately, walking into your local store may produce some of the worst options available.
Difference of Non-Drying Oil vs Drying Oil-Based Stains
Drying oils are “curing” oils. This means that they actually dry on top of or just below the surface. They will also help “seal” the wood. Non-drying oils are the opposite. They never dry or fully cure but dive deep into the wood to help condition the cells. Paraffin oil (not wax) is the most common.
Are Deck Finishes, Stains, Sealers, or Both?
This question can be confusing to homeowners. All deck stains are sealers that will help prevent water absorption. Deck sealers typically are not stains, as they do not have any pigment. Some, though, may have a very light tint.
What’s the Right Deck Stain for My Needs?
I always recommend homeowners obtain a couple of samples to start. Apply two coats of each to very small areas of the deck as a test to properly assess the color and appearance of the different stains before making a purchase. Once applied, the color of a stain often appears differently than expected, so it may or may not blend in well with the grain of the wood.
Also, I recommend checking that the price of the product you choose fits your budget. Keep in mind that higher-priced stains will not necessarily be the longest-lasting. Make sure you are happy with the appearance of the stain and choose an established brand, as you might need to buy more of the product in the future.
My Best Deck Stain Suggestions
I prefer penetrating semi-transparent products with all these different types of products as they allow the wood grain to show. They offer better-than-average UV protection and can be easier to reapply in the future. Penetration is better for oil-based versions than water-based versions. The exceptions for quality semi-transparent penetrating water-based stains would be the Defy Extreme Stains and the Restore-A-Deck Stains.
Want Free Help Choosing Your Deck Stain Type? Ask below in the comments!
See My List of the Best 8 Semi-transparent Deck Stains
What Other Tools Do I Need?
Some of the tools needed to get the job done include:
- Personal protective equipment (PPE), such as eye coverings and gloves.
- Deck cleaner and deck brightener (neutralizer) for prepping the surfaces.
- Hose for rinsing things and hand rags for cleaning up.
- Tarps or plastic for covering nearby vegetation.
- A hammer, drill, screws, and nails for any repairs.
- A bucket with stir sticks.
- A pole sander and hand sander with sandpaper (no finer than 80 grit).
- A pump-style or airless sprayer.
- A roller and roller tray, a stain (paint) pad with a pole, or a speed mop.
- Stain brushes with either natural or synthetic bristles.
How to Apply a Deck Stain
1. Review the Manufacturer’s Instructions
Measure your deck to best determine the proper amount of stain needed, and buy a little extra to ensure you don’t run out. Every product is slightly different, so I always read the manufacturer’s application instructions thoroughly. This helps confirm details such as whether to apply one or two coats, the dry time interval between the coats, and any safety recommendations.
2. Surface Preparation
Begin by removing all furniture and objects from the deck.
Remove any current (existing) stain using a deck stripping product. Remember to keep children and pets away from these and other chemicals. Thoroughly cleanse the surfaces using a wood cleaner, stiff brush, and power washer (if needed).
Apply a wood deck brightening product to neutralize (pH) acidity and prepare the wood pores for optimal absorption. Limit sanding except for very stubborn spots of existing stain, removing splinters, or leveling raised corners using 40 to 60-grit sandpaper. Let the surface dry completely for two days.
3. Apply Stain to One Board at a Time
You may choose to apply stain with a brush, pad, roller, or sprayer. Avoid pump sprayers and stain pads for thicker or solid stains. Begin applying stain to vertical surfaces followed by floors and staircases. Apply stain to a single board at a time completely from end to end while limiting overlap marks.
4. Use a Brush to “Even Out” the Finish
You may “back brush” the stain during the initial application and then use a separate brush to achieve a more uniform appearance.
5. Allow for Penetration and Remove Excess Stain
After the application, allow 20 to 30 minutes for the stain to completely soak into the wood. Wipe any remaining, unabsorbed stain away to avoid blotches.
6. Prevent Exposure to Moisture
Remember the importance of checking the weather forecast before starting for any chances of rain in the next 24 hours and have tarps or plastic on hand to cover the deck—just in case.
Top Oil- Based Stain | Top Water-Based Stain | Top Solid Color Stain | Easiest to Apply Stain |
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From: $58.99 | From: $51.99* | From: $69.99* | From: $74.95* |
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How I wish I knew about your site years ago. I originally applied Cabot solid stain and now contractor had a really hard time getting it off. There are some parts that it can't get off. The wood had to be sanded and now it is rough. How can you effectively remove solid stains completely? Also, is a brightener important. i don't think a brightner was used. We're replacing old solid stain with TWP 100. Is TWP 100 Redwood a "solid"? (I don't want to have to go thru this again). Thanks!!
TWP is not a solid and does not come in a solid. For you to use TWP, you would need to remove all of the old stolid stain first.
Thanks for the reply! the contractors removed as much of the old cabot stain as they could but there were some places where it couldn't get off (knots and some edges). They ended up staining over them because 95% of the rest of the wood was finally clean after numerous sandings. again I wish I saw this site bc they used behr cleaner. unfortunately they didn't use a brightener and I hope that doesn't bite me in the future…
We have Sherman Williams solid color deckscapes on our deck right now. After a long process of stripping a failed stain, this was our solution to getting an even coverage and uv protection. Although we have not had much in the way of peeling, what we despise about this deck stain is the color-fading grey-ish look,and the fact that it is not at all dirt-resistant. It shows every footprint and it is not easily cleaned. It is time again for us to re-apply. Is there a solid stain that is more dirt resistant? Something with slightly more sheen to it that won't get that dirty, chalky look the minute it gets walked on?
Normanjay, not sure on this one. Never seen a deck stain with a shine that does not peel heavily.
It doesn't need to have a shine, just thinking that it would clean up nicer. Is there any other solid-deck stain that is more dirt-resistant or easier to rinse clean?
Not that we know of.
What do you think of sealing a cedar deck with straight linseed oil? Thanks!
Great it you want zero UV protection from graying and do not mind mold all over the deck. 🙁
There are so many questions on this thread and I tried to skim them all so hopefully my question isn't too redundant 🙂 I am getting a new cedar deck built, not sure exactly what kind of cedar, it's from Lowe's called "Select Radius Edge Cedar Decking". What product(s) should I use to seal it and how long should I wait after it's built before sealing it? I am told that the wood is seasoned so can be stained right away. I am looking to do a semi-transparent stain. I live in PA. Thanks! 🙂
Sandra, it cannot be stained right away, best to let it dry out for a couple of months then prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener to remove mill glaze. Stain with only one coat for the first application.
What brand would you recommend for the deck cleaner, wood brightener, and stain? Thanks for responding so quickly!
Sandra, Use Restore A Deck products for the cleaning and brightener. Armstrong Clark for the stain.
I just realized we'll need to deal with about 140' board feet of new decking, to replace some bad deck boards. Should we install those 1st, then wait a few mos. for weathering, THEN strip/brighten/re-stain the deck? If so, that puts us doing the work in July, when day temps can be in 90's in N. Ala. I hate to put this all off until Fall, as it's long overdue (deck's growing algae under tree-shade, splinters are hurting bare feet).
MaryV, yes I would install the new wood first, wait a few months than prep and stain. behr can be hard to strip off. Use the stripper to get off as much as possible, sand if needed the rest, brighten when done. Look at the Armstrong Clark stain in a semi-solid color.
Are you suggesting the semi-solid to better hide the new boards among the old? I'd rather use semi-transparent, unless there's a reason more compelling than esthetics (tho I know the semi-solid gives more UV protection, but I'd rather not have to strip it each time I renew the stain). Again, thanks for your hard work in maintianing this great site.
MaryV, yes and it gives more UV protection. Thought it would blend better. You can still use a semi-trans though.
Located in N. Ala. Have an 850 sf, 17-yr-old PTP deck w/ exposure ranging from shade (under tree), to part shade, to open sun.
5 yrs ago we stripped off semi-solid (almost opaque) stain (Thomas, I think), re-stained w/ Beyer oil-based semi-transparent stain. Within 9 mos., the Behr was peeling. NOW, plan to strip & brighten (using products you suggest), then re-stain w/ semi-transparent oil-based stain. Because of spring season, will need to wait between stripping/brightening now, and staining (after tree pollen stops, about 1 mo.). What products do you recommend, and will any follow-up prep be needed between stripping/brightening and eventual staining? Thanks for a great site, and for taking time to answer all these questions!
Has anyone ever used a product called SEAL ONCE on a cedar deck? We don't care that the deck goes grey, but we may want to protect it from the elements. We want an easy on easy maintenance solution.
Thanks,
Dan
Dan, products like these are \”gimmicky\” in our opinion. They may help reduce the chance of rot and decay but they do nothing for UV protection, dirt, graying, water, etc. In theory they are supposed to react with the alkali in the wood creating an internal barrier that stabilizes the wood below the surface. These products work well to densify concrete but have been proven to be of much help for wood.
I have a brand new covered wooden deck/patio. I am thinking of keeping the natural look of the wood. I have two choices in mind; the semi-transparent stain or the clear finish? I live in the Pacific Northwest. What is the better way to go if I want to preserve the natural look of the wood. Also, the ceiling of this patio is made of the same wood. Do I need to seal or finish that as well?
Clear sealers will not provide protection from graying. You must have color or a semi-transparent tint for this. The ceiling will not gray as quickly but you may want to apply just so it matches the rest of the wood.
I have a salt treated deck that is about 11 years. I have 6 boards in different areas of the deck that I need to replace due to splitting. I want to re-stain the deck with a stain that needs the least amount of maintainence after I replace the boards. The stain that I have used in the past is Olympic cedar tone from Lowes. How long do I need to wait after replacing boards to stain and will I have to do anything special besides get any dirt off of the existing boards? Also will I be able to tell the difference in the old boards and the new boards if I do a transparent stain?
Becky, new wood will not match older wood when stained the first time with a transparent or semi-transparent stain. Best to let the new wood season for a few months then strip down the old stain so the entire deck is free from old coatings. Brighten all the wood when done. Apply stain of choice.
I live in Northwest Mississippi, I just built a pergola using pressure treated wood. What is the best semi transparent stain/sealer I can use.
Please read this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Can I thin CWF UV-2 with just a few drops of paint thinner so it will flow better through the stain stick pad? It's too thick!
Thanks for your excellent site.
Valerie, I do not think you can thin the CWF.
Apply with brush and keep wet edge and do one board at a time.
please point me to a stain. Live in Arkansas, upper deck is older (25yrs) lower deck is 4yrs. have used one time stain, didn't last the 7 yrs as advertised. when I applied 2nd coat turned very dark. Just stripped this off and used brightner. Deck is partial full sun and tree/house shaded some in the day. Deck is treated pine. Would like a transparent or semi to maintain a nice wood look.
Harry
Harry, try TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark. BTW, nothing lasts more then 2-3 years on a horizontal surface. They use gimmicky warranties and charge way more then their product is worth.
I live in South Mississippi. My deck has been stained twice, once with transparent stain that lasted six months. After a year it was stripped and stained with semi-transparent Holman Dura-Stain. In six months the wood was splitting and the stain peeling. I suspect that the deck was not properly prepped both times. As a female homeowner I am at the mercy of painters/contractors. This time I bought the deck cleaner, am having some of the wood replaced and all of the loose chips sanded off. I have been to Lowe's, Home Depot, and a large local store. At each store I get different advice. I have spent hours on the internet and cannot find a highly recommended stain to put over the semi-transparent. A stain gets good reviews on one site and poor reviews on another. Do I have to put a solid stain on the deck if I don't want to go to the expense of sanding the entire thing? It is an elaborate split level deck with spindles and lattice work. Can you please make recommendations for the stain I should now use? You are my last hope!! Help!
Sharon, you cannot put a different semi-transparent stain on top of the Durastain. Either remove completely or go with a solid to mask. The solid stain will peel eventually though and looks like a painted deck.
Clean get all the flaking off go right back over with the dura stain.
Please help! I wish I had found this site 2 days ago! Here's my situation. I live on the coast of Maine in a 1-1/2 yr. old house with a south facing deck that we keep clear of snow in the winter. The deck is Port Orford cedar which has not been treated. The railings are red cedar. The professional house painter used DeckScapes on the rail about a month after the rail was installed. In less 3 months!!! it was peeling. I scraped and sanded all horizontal surfaces and reapplied DeckScapes. After watching DeckScapes blister and peel for the past year, I decided to strip the entire rail system and start from scratch.
I've been talking to a local paint rep for the past year, trying to figure out what to use. Finally, I decided to use Minwax Helmsman. It was used on the sill for the front door, and I liked how it has worn over the past year+, and I like it's clear finish that shows the wood grain clearly. I'm using the satin finish. So, even though it's a urethane, it's not too glossy. So, please tell me. Is this a really bad idea? None of the deck stains mentioned are an urethane product. Why not? So far, I've spent about 4 days removing DeckScape and 1/2 day putting 1 coat of Helmsman on the horizontal surfaces. Please tell me if this is a poor choice of product before I ruin this deck rail system!
Many thanks for your very informative and helpful site. As I said, I just wish I found it before!
Diana, yes it is a bad idea. You should never put a urethane type product on exterior decking. It will blister, peel, attract mold and you will need to sand it off to fix.
Preparing to stain a 15 year old pressure treated deck in Iowa previously stained with Wolman Durastain semi-transparent. The old stain has been removed with a stripper and power washer. There are some random very small spots of old stain given the challenge of removing it. The wood condition is in fair shape for the age. Noticed small amount of mildew on some vertical surfaces but they hadn't been cleaned/re-stained in several years. I will be using a brightener prior to staining.
Would you recommend going with an oil or water based stain? I see the pro's and con's of each type but looking for a tie breaker. A concern is whether that small bit of residual old stain would cause me more or less issues depending on the type chosen. Maybe each would work equally as well so other factors are more important (thoughts?). I'm considering your recommended brands in a semi-transparent for each type – TWP, Armstrong Clark for oil & Defy for water based. If your answer was "oil based", would you choose one brand over the other? Stripping was no fun so I really want to get it right. Thanks in advance for the help.
Mike, when we strip decks and cannot get all of the old stain off completely we use the Armstrong Clark stain in a semi-solid color that is similar to the old stain. It does a great job of blending it well. I would go that route.
Most the semi transparent Behr (water based) stain is now off my deck and will be using a deck cleaner then a power washer to further the cleaning process. I want a good new stain. Can i use an oil based stain or must i go with water based again?
Diane, if all of the Behr is removed then you can switch to an oil based stain. You will have better results with an oil. They penetrate deeper into the wood grain.
Applied Sikkens Cetol SRD (oil based) translucent stain to cedar fence 10 yrs ago. Fence needs to be re-stained, but only water-based stain available now. What are my options?
I live in Minnesota. The 25 year old cedar siding has been stained with oil based semitransparent stain. Some of the siding and fascia has been replaced and is much lighter color than the old siding. I am afraid that semitransparent stain will not make the old and new boards the same color. The folks at the paint store said that I should put on an oil primer and then latex solid stain. They said that the latex will be more durable in this climate and that the primer will prevent the oil stain from leaking through the solid stain. Do you agree?
Julie, do you want a painted look? I would not and would strip all of the old finish and prep the new wood before proceeding with a semi-transparent stain.
we put a new pine milled board on for our deck. it seems to have a mill glaze how can I tell for sure? we live in nova scotia canada on the south shore. when can we put something on the deck, it is getting dirty already with just walking on it.
so how long do we wait to do anything
do we use a cleaner first ( mud and grime on it now)
then what , we are thinking a semi stain, but then reading your reports maybe a solid stain would be better. do not want it too dark. but it is way too light right now.
the deck gets partial sun as we have a overhang roof.
can you help?
Barbara, https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Look at the Armstrong in a semi-solid color.
I put a MInwax water based stain on my deck about 3 years ago. Very bad pealing and I need to re-stain. Can I put a dark oil based stain over the waterbased stuff? I pressure washed it and about 50% came off.
Gaylen, no you cannot do that. Remove the old stain 100%. Probably need to sand it off.
This is the end of August and we hope to have our new pressure treated deck finished in a couple of weeks. We live in Nashville, Tennessee. Should we stain it in late October or wait until spring. We are planing on using an oil base semi transparent stain. Does this sound appropriate? Thank you!
Alvin, either apply a stain like TimberOil in the Fall or wait and apply any stain you would want in the Spring. Please read:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I need some clarification on the Flood stain review on your site….I want to make sure if I go with this product that I buy the correct one. The review is here https://www.deckstainhelp.com/flood-cwf-oil-wood-s… and you mention CWF in the title, mention it is oil based and available in semi-transparent (this is what was reviewed but the picture shows the clear finish)….but on the flood website here https://www.floodstains.ca/en/ the CWF-Uv and CWF-UV5 are transparent/translucent only and water based not oil. The semi-transparent is oil based but on the gallon it's called "Semi-transparent penetring oil" and no CWF in the title. I'm looking at buying this last one called "Semi-transparent penetring oil" as mentioned and the image shown on the flood website…….is this last one the product you guys reviewed? Thanks for the help
Albert, we review the semi-transparent oil. The picture of the can must be wrong.
Actually I'm back from the store here selling it (Betonel in Montreal) and the picture on the flood website is the same as the gallons in the store.. So difference between what is sold in Canada vs. US. The difference is obvious when you compare on both flood sites. So I need to figure out if the semi sold in Canada is based on the CWF-Uv formula or on this one also sold in the USA
Ok, i figured it out, in Montreal, the "semi-transparent penetrating oil finish" correspond to the CWF-UV5 semi in the US. I got this when I opened the MSDS and TDS sheets of the Canadian prouct and identified the product as "FLD144 CWF-UV5 clear tint base"….the same as when I check the UWF-CV5 oil base on the USA site.
So this being said, the flood stain is available here in Canada, would it be comparable to the Armstrong one? Trying to avoid shipping cost every ime I need a gallon ……
Albert, it is a decent product but not quite as good as the AC.
My deck was built in early spring and is in need of staining. Full sun most of the day, about 8 feet off the ground, thinking a semi-transparent stain. What is your recommended stain for central Va? The local store recommended Olympic Maximum but the contractor said it is junk and recommended Cabot. I am finding mixed opinions and reviews… Thanks!
Jess, try TWP 100 Series for middle VA.
Used tpw 1500 low voc, my wife has severe asthma and had a bad reaction to it ,it also dries very slow .the product performed well as a stain and sealer ,but asthma sufferers be warned .The TPW was chosen for it' s low voc ,however,not low enough.
Randy, sorry to hear. VOC is a government rating for Volatile Organic Compounds. TWP 1500 has a low rating of 350 while most are 550. This rating really does not have anything to do with a persons health but rather how much evaporates into the ozone.
I want to be able to apply a Stain. But I live in Maryland. I would Like to see the fine grains on the wood from mediocre-clear. I am completely new to this "redoing decks thing". What stainer do you guys suggest? or should I just completely skip the staining process? PLease respond to my email! Thank you for your help so much!
Jay, try the TWP 1500 or the Armstrong Clark for a deck in MD.
Damn it, I live in maryland!!!!!!!
We have a deck that was built last summer. We were advised not to seal it right away so the chemicals could wash out of it. By this summer it was covered with mildew. It does get a good amount of shade. We bleached and pressure washed it. Now we need to seal it. I don't care if it has a color stain. I just want to seal it from the mildew! And I am willing to seal it from the bottom too. What should I do?
Amy, for mildew prevention try the Defy Extreme or the TWP stains.
Wisconsin_Full Sun_Pressure Treated_New_New_This deck was just put up last month. It is around our pool, so the ladder is set up to get out of the pool on the deck. How long do we have to wait to stain? The deck boards were stored inside a barn for 1 year, so they already have shrunk. The side rails were bought from inside, so they are dry. The only thing that has not been dry for awhile is the posts._Thanks for any help you can give me.
tina, you can and brighten now and apply one coat of stain of the Timber Oil or Armstrong Clark. You will probably need to apply a light maintenance coat next year so time.
Oil molecules are not even close to being smaller than water molecules. Water molecules have three atoms, H2O, right? Oil molecules are long chain hydrocarbons, some hundreds of atoms long. For example, linseed oil is made of a high percentage of alpha-Linolenic acid which has the chemical formula C18H30O2. That's 50 atoms!
I would suggest that the larger molecular size is the reason oil-based stains spread easier and dry slower. Even though they typically have a higher volatile component concentration than water based, which is what flashes off as the stain drys, the larger molecular size slows absorption into the wood. In water-based stain the water would be absorbed very readily; wood comes from plants and last I checked plants use water to live. Hence the the internal pores and passages of the wood are designed for water already. Think about getting a drop of water on a dry board. It doesn't hang around very long. So water based stains "dry" partly by having the water absorb into the wood, to be released later.
Oil-based stains may seem to penetrate better because the pigments and other components are more soluble in the oil base and are therefore carried into the wood better when the oil does get absorbed, but that's just speculation. I suspect it's more complicated than just molecular size though.
I have a 12 yr old deck that has olympic maximum oil based semi transparent cedar stain on it. I had to replace all the floor boards this month. Deck is upper level and over top of a garden. I would like a different color on it and yes i definitely should have cleaned it before replacing boards. can I wash the deck now with the new boards on it and also do I have to try to strip off the stain to redo it in a different color and can I just put on a new color using oil base? Any suggestions would be appreciated. (i know i cant stain new boards yet) Also what brand would you recommend?
Scott, you need to strip off the Olympic then use a wood brightener for the prep. Try TWP or Armstrong Clark for the stain.
The stain on it now is 3 years old. The deck posts have some splintering and cracks. Do i still need to try to strip it since its been on for so long and if so, will it hurt the new boards and garden below it? Thanks
Scott, if you have any old stain on the wood you should remove it first with the stripper than brighten. If not you can use the cleaner instead of the stripper. I would protect the garden.
Just asking, please read: Staining New Decks
Mike, Armstrong Clark in the Amber color for this.
I bought a water based tinted transparent stain and, after applying it to a few outside rails, I decided it was darker than what I want for my very old deck. Can I mix it with the same brand of non-tinted water based neutral to lighten it up some? I asked at the store I got it from and they said it was never a good idea to mix tinted and non-tinted stains together even though they are both water based and transparent. Are they correct?
Not sure. I would contact the manufacturer of the stain and ask them.
Oil molecules are much larger than water molecules. If oil stains penetrate deeper it's not due to molecule size. Please correct startement.
Agreed, Tanveer. Amazing that whomever writes for this site could get this simple little scientific fact so wrong. Water is a polar molecule. One side of the molecule is positively charged, while the other is negatively charged. The two atoms of oxygen cling to each other with the single hydrogen atom on the other side.
Oil on the other hand is made of carbon atoms bonded to hydrogen atoms forming hydrocarbon chains, which are very large molecules. This makes them non-polar, meaning that oil molecules are attracted to each other more than water molecules.
Size does matter: water molecules are much smaller than other molecules. So a number of water molecules have to break their hydrogen bonds to accommodate oil molecules, which is another reason why oil doesn't easily mix with water.
Whomever claimed that water-based finishes do not penetrate as well as oils, was skewing the test, or testing high solids formulas of water-based product vs lesser solids formulations of oil-based products. Wood, being water-based will tend to absorb water much more than it will ever absorb oil – the law of like attracting like. But water is only the vehicle, it is the resin (usually acrylic) and the additives carried by the water that will protect the wood. Oil molecules are also carried into the wood via the petroleum solvent vehicle used in oil-based formulations.
I do not personally like any water-based deck finishes I've tested or used because they require far too much preparation (sanding) when needing a recoat. They are durable, but not practical. It is far simpler to recoat an oil-based deck finish, just clean, and reapply.
And NEVER have I found a 'water-soluble oil' finish that was worth the cost of the container.
I live on the coast of Oregon. I am about ready to lay my Port Orford Cedar (POC) (white cedar) decking and I'm getting mixed info on staining now or waiting a year after exposure to apply stain. The wood manufacturer says its fine to stain as their wood is kiln dried, MC is <8%, shows no sap bleed, and the surface does seem to absorb water OK so no mill hardening to deal with. One paint supplier said I have to wait a full year for the wood to age because of tannins and resins in the wood. I'm a firm believer in treating both top and bottom to prevent cupping and waiting a year kills that idea. I plan on using oil-based Cabot Semi-transparent deck and siding stain. Any other precautions I should address before staining new wood? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Steve, please read this: Staining New Decks
Yesterday afternoon my deck was fully prepped and ready for staining. For the three preceding days, it had been exposed to almost full sun, temperatures in the mid to high 80's, and zero new water. Then with no prior notice, it rained – for about 10 minutes, probably dropping 1/4 to 1/3rd inch. My question is : if with no further bad weather, how long do I need to wait for the moisture content to be low enough (18%?) to proceed.
Thank you very much
I would wait at least 24 hours.
Do I need to apply a sealant after my deck was painted with Sherwin Williams Exterior Deck stain ranchero red acrylic flat? it look so dull and its peeling up already after one day.. paid for 'Handyman' …
Jonesy, No a sealer will not work on this.
Why did deck ends curl up a year after I put Thompson Water seal on my elevated deck? We bought an elevated Dome home on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. The deck floor was weathered grey and did not look treated. The railing is covered with solid stain that washed off with deck cleaner. The deck boards are not extended over the fascia. There is a small gap between the fascia and the frame where wire fencing had been attached. As I removed the wire, the gap widen. and collected leaves, ect… Should i remove the fascia board or just pull it out at the bottom so water no longer collects?
Karin, it is probably just the wood type that caused the curling.
Thanks for the feedback regarding urethane not to be used on exterior applications- i assume the problems are related to the inevitable peeling of the urethane and the difficulty of stripping afterwords?; i am looking to use it for inside window frames that are exposed to hot summers and cold winters with lots of sun shine as all i read indicates little other solution for internal window frames? i will avoid using it on the external door and will find another solution for the external door- i may just use a clear absorbing stain such AC and plan on refinishing them every couple of years with the stain; thanks for the feedback
Mike, yes urethanes will always peel and trap mold on outside wood
I am curious as to whether you would ever put spar urethane over top of an oil based stain such as armstrong clark? does the spar add anything worthwhile to coat the stain with on an exterior wood door? what about on window frames and window sills which are kind of an interior/exterior use as they are subjected to exterior conditions. also, i have seen a light linseed oil used to prepare wood for consistency before staining with a product such as armstrng clark stains; once agian, does this make any sense to you and does the linseed oil pre-treatment add anything of value at all? Thanks in advance for your replies.
Mike, never use a Spar urethane on outside wood! It will create all kinds of issues. You do not need to pre-treat either.
1st – Have cidar deck exposed to alot of sun replaced some boards plan on sanding the whole deck can we use the TWP 1500 Semi Transparent stain would it look uniformed with old and new board?
2nd- Cidar deck under porch no sun exposure15 yrs old been using CWF clear looks like a hardwood floor problem used power washer yikes and put marks into it down to natural wood 🙁 Can we use a solid stain to hit them areas or do we sand the while deck?
Linda, new and old wood will not match when stained. Not sure what you mean on the second question.
Can Danish Oil be added to products such as TWP1500? I have done this in the past with Flood CWF (pre EPA changes) and it mixed well and penetrated cedar decking much more than sealer right out of the can.
Chris, I am not sure as I have never tried it.
We mixed two stains together to get a desired color to stain a secondhand redwood play set that we had sanded down to the wood. Having got the bulk of it stained, I'm worried we've made a terrible mistake (confirmed by reading the above posts!). Stain 1 was semi- transparent behr cedar (acrylic), and stain 2 was Cabot oil based semi solid in bark. It mixed well, perfect color, and went on fine….week later, went to putoin a second coat and it had turned to pudding consistency in the can. Not so worried about the second coat now, just wondering what will happen to the play set this summer? What typically happens in this case, or does no one usually make such a silly mistake? Also, when it's time to restain, what do we need to do to do it right?
blamingthewife, you cannot mix oil based and water based stains together. I am surprised it even applied to the wood. If it dried okay then I would consider yourself lucky and just leave it alone until it is time to redo. You will probably need to strip it off in 2-3 years and start over.
What do you know about Sherwin Williams Revive stains? A couple of paint/stain pros recommended it. (2 yr old deck, gets full sun between 11 am and 4-5 in the summer
Is it okay to mix semi transparent and solid colors stains together before applying?
Carolyn, no you cannot do that.
I have a cedar deck that was built Jan 2010. We Stained it with Olympic semi-transparent natural cedar color stain in may 2010. I will note that I sanded off my first attempt at staining. The following spring the color had started to fade and many areas developed gray areas. I never got a chance to re-stain it, and now we at the end of spring 2013 and the deck in now peeling and has lost most of its color. I want a stain that penetrates and lasts. I live in MA and was looking towards TWP1500 based on your reviews. Can I apply this stain if I remove the current stain and clean the wood using FLOOD wood finish remover, I will sand the deck if i need to.
Matt, as long as the wood is prepped correctly then you can apply the 1500 Series.
I am in the process of prepping the deck now (when it dries out of the rain). My plan is to 1. use FLOOD WOOD FINISH REMOVER first, then sand off areas left behind. 2. use FLOOD BRIGHTER/CLEANER. 3.Let dry 4.Give a final wipe down with a rag or dry mop. 5. Apply TWP 1500 semi transparent using airless sprayer, back brushing using a lambs wool applicator. Does this sound ok or am I missing something?
Matt, sounds like a good plan!
Have you reviewed Behr's DeckOver? Is this a good product?
DO NOT USE DECKOVER! We just stripped and cleaned our deck and put two coats of deckover on our deck. Waited 24 hours to walk over it barefoot to remove leaves and stuff that fell from our palm trees. It was stained from the debris. It's been 4 days now. We have dirty footprints and leaf stains that nothing will clean off. Behr says use Dawn and water with a soft brush. What a joke….it doesn't touch the marks. So now we have a newly finished deck that will soon look worse than the old one did.
I just scanned all of the above comments and I don't believe anyone has asked this question. We live in Indiana and just discovered that oil based deck stain is no longer sold in our state. We have a 6 year old cedar deck stained 3x over the course of 6 years with semi-transparent oil based stain. The deck sits in a mostly shaded are and was sanded this past weekend. Can we re-stain using a water based stain or must we strip it first? Thanks!
Kelsey, that is not true. TWP 1500, Armstrong Clark, Messmers, Penofin, etc all can be sold in your state.
We have a treated lumber deck that is about 6 years old. The first stain applications were not done well, so last summer we stripped, cleaned and re-stained the deck using an Olympic Semi-Transparent stain. We applied one coat. This summer (one year later) the deck seems dull and has developed some mildew. We had a very wet winter and lots of rain this spring, and the deck does not get much sun. Can we just clean and re-apply the stain?
Stacy, you should be able to clean and reapply the same stain.
Kate, if switching brands you should always remove the old stain first.