This post was updated on April 11, 2025
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in new deck staining and prep. My new wood stain reviews and help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing, all designed to present you with the top product choices. See here for more info about me.
Want to Stain a New Deck in 2025? Read This First!
Every spring, I get hundreds of questions about when to stain a new deck, wood fence, or exterior wood home. This is one of the most frequently asked topics on DeckStainHelp.com. To make it easier for you, I’ve put together this comprehensive 2025 guide to staining a new deck, including the best stains to use and key steps for ensuring long-lasting protection. If you still have questions, drop a comment below, and I’ll be happy to help!
How Long Should you Wait to Stain a New Deck
My Pro Steps to Understanding New Deck Staining
1. Should I Stain the New Decking?
Yes! Staining a deck helps protect the wood from water damage, UV graying, and general wear and tear. However, it’s crucial to stain at the right time so the wood absorbs the stain properly and ensures long-term durability.
2. How Long Should You Wait Before You Stain a New Deck?
The waiting period depends on the type of wood used:
- Smooth wood: Wait at least three months before staining.
- Rough-sawn wood: Can be stained immediately if clean and dry.
- Kiln-dried (KDAT) wood: Needs one to two months before staining.
If you’re unsure what type of wood you have, post a picture in the comments section, and I’ll help you figure it out.
3. Weathering and Your New Wood Deck: Why Wait to Stain a Deck?
Most new wood needs time to weather before applying a deck stain. Many people assume this is solely to reduce moisture, but the main reason is wood porosity. Freshly cut wood has a smooth, dense surface that prevents stain from soaking in properly. Weathering breaks down this surface, allowing better absorption and preventing premature stain failure.
Exception: Rough-sawn wood does not need weathering since it is naturally porous and absorbs stain well.
New Rough Sawn Wood
There is no need to weather or prep new-bought sawn wood. It is very absorbent and will not have a mill glaze. Just make sure it is clean, and you can go ahead and apply your wood and deck stain.
4. What Happens if You Stain a Deck Too Soon?
Staining too early leads to poor adhesion, meaning the stain will sit on top of the wood rather than penetrate it. This can cause blotchy results, fading from sun exposure, and peeling due to rain. The wood needs to be porous so that the stain can soak in and reflect your chosen color. If the stain doesn’t take, the color will fade in the sun and wash out in the rain.
5. How to Stain a New Deck: A Step by Step Guid
My new deck staining tips apply to all wooden exteriors, including decks, cedar-framed homes, log cabins, wood fences, and other structures.
Step 1: Allow for Proper Weathering
- Follow the stain manufacturer’s guidelines. Recommendations vary between 1 to 12 months depending on the stain’s thickness and transparency.
- Thinner stains (transparent & semi-transparent) can be applied sooner.
- Thicker stains (semi-solid & solid) require a longer weathering period.
Step 2: Prep New Wood for Staining
Once the deck has weathered, follow these steps to ensure proper absorption:
- Clean the wood: Use a high-quality wood cleaner to remove dirt, mildew, and oxidation.
- Brighten the wood: Applying a wood brightener restores the pH balance and opens the pores for better stain absorption.
- Let the wood dry: Wait at least 48 hours after cleaning before staining.
I recommend the Restore-A-Deck Cleaner/Brightener Kit for the best preparation results.
Step 3: Sand the New Wood?
Sanding is not necessary unless you notice wood fuzzies or slivers after cleaning. If needed:
- Sand lightly with 60-80 grit sandpaper.
- Always follow up with a wood brightener after sanding.
Rinse well with a pressure washer when done.
Step 4: Apply the Stain
- Use a single coat for new wood to prevent over-application.
- Avoid staining in direct sunlight or if rain is expected within 24 hours.
Step 5: Follow Up With Another Coat after 1 Year
Be prepared to apply a maintenance coat in 12-18 months. The first coat on new wood won’t last as long as subsequent applications, so reapplying will enhance protection and color longevity.
6. My Recommended Wood Stain Brands for New Decks
Here are my top recommended wood stains for new decks:
Armstrong-Clark Wood Stains
Armstrong-Clark deck stains can be used on new wood and deck materials such as pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, IPE, and exotic hardwoods.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Two to three months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid colors
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.5/10
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains
Restore-A-Deck wood stain can be applied to dry or damp wood. It can be used on new wood and deck materials such as pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, IPE, and exotic hardwoods.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Three months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.625/10
TWP 100 Pro Series Stains
TWP 100 Pro Series stains are only allowed in 35 states; use TWP 1500 stain if you’re in a low-VOC state. TWP 100 Pro Series stain can be used on new wood and deck materials, including pressure-treated pine and cedar.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Four to 12 months
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.69/10
✅ Tip: If you live in a low-VOC state, use TWP 1500 Series instead.
Best Water-Based Deck Stain for New Wood | The Easiest Applying Deck Stain for New Wood | Best Oil-Based Deck Stain for New Wood |
Months to Weather New Wood: 3 months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors. | Months to Weather New Wood: 2-3 months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid. | Months to Weather New Wood: 4 - 12 months for all TWP Series and Colors. |
 |  |  |
From: $47.99 *Free Shipping | From: $65.99 *Free Shipping | From: $41.99 *Plus Shipping |
My Video on Staining a New Wood Deck, Step-by-Step
7. New Wood Deck Staining Common Questions
What Happens if You Stain Pressure-Treated Wood Too Soon?
Like other types of wood, you can’t stain pressure-treated wood too soon. If you do, you will lose the stain, and your deck won’t be the color you hoped for. Even if the stain doesn’t wash off, it can dry on blotchy, and you won’t be happy with the result. The same applies to Cedar and Redwood Decks.
When Should You Avoid Staining a Deck?
- If the wood is wet or damp.
- Immediately after installation.
- When rain is forecasted within 24 hours.
Can You Pre-Stain New Wood?
- Smooth wood: Not recommended. Pre-staining will lead to adhesion issues.
- Rough-sawn wood: Yes, pre-staining is acceptable.
Should You Stain All Sides of a Deck Board?
No. Sealing all sides traps moisture, leading to wood rot. Only stain the exposed surfaces after installation. Many people assume or ask if they should stain all sides of the decking boards. This is not a good idea, as it can 100% seal the wood, resulting in dry rot as the wood cannot “breathe.” You want to stain only the exposed wood after it is installed.
8. Questions on New Deck Staining
Still unsure about when or how to stain your new deck? Have questions about the best stain brands? Drop a comment below, and I’ll be happy to help!
We live in California and our contractor has installed new rough sawn redwood steps going up to a second story deck. We have conflicting opinions whether to let the steps age and darken naturally or to have a stain put on them. If we should decide to stain them, how long should we wait for the wood to age?
If rough sawn wood you can stain right away, Never seen rough sawn on steps though. Always smooth wood.
Many homeowners in CA use rough sawn redwood for fences, retaining walls, and outside steps. Cheaper and stairs have better traction. Also many prefer the natural darkening as the wood ages, plus the minimal maintenance required.
Updated the vertical areas but never seen them on horizontal areas. Thanks for explaining.
hello: put in a cedar deck last summer(2019) and have let it weathered. it is now sept of 2020. I have cleaned and and brightened it using restore-a-deck products. not as easy of a job as made out to be and it is a very large deck (1300 sq ft). i have been waiting about two and half weeks due to rain and colder weather to stain. weather looks good for this weekend but my question is has it been too long since i cleaned and brightened to stailn ? i will be using TWP 101 cedar tone semi transparent.
Do a light pressure wash and brighten since it has been over 2 weeks.
We live in Southwest Michigan, and are having a new cedar deck installed today, 10/20/20. Do we need to seal prior to winter to keep it looking good, or wait till Spring? Then do we just use Linseed Oil? We used Thompson’s water seal on another deck and it made a horrible mess and almost completely peeled the following spring. Then they say I shouldn’t have used that on a new cedar deck. Please help….
No need to do anything. Leave alone until Spring to prep and stain.
I removed all old stain from my deck. Should I let sit over the winter before stains?
You can stain now or in Spring but you will need to redo the prep if you wait until Spring.
What do you mean when you say that new decks need to be “weathered”? What does this process mean
Just letting the wood sit and being exposed to all weather conditions?
Correct.
Is the month of October a bad time to put in a new deck? And if I have one built in Oct. will it mess up the wood if I stain it within 45 days? I live in South Texas.
You can build a deck in October and you need to weather the wood for 90+ plus for most stain brands.
Hello! I recently installed a small deck with untreated Douglas fir. Part of it is uncovered. I am wondering if it will be okay to weather it over a wet Oregon winter, or if I should try to cover it somehow? If it is okay to leave it uncovered, how many dry days do you suggest letting it dry out before staining it in the spring?
Leave uncovered. Prep and stain in Spring.
Hi, I need help. The manager at the local paint store told me to sand the deck before staining it to open up the pores. However when I stained it the results were blotchy (I assume I didn’t sand enough of the mill glaze so I didn’t get consistent absorption).
After noticing the blotchy results, I found this website and did a lot more research. I stained the rest of the deck using the process of cleaning and using wood brightener before staining.
I’m happy with the results but I’d love to fix the section that is blotchy. You can also see the sheen difference between the sanded and unsanded section.
From what I’ve read, it sounds like I need to start by sanding, then cleaning, brighten and restain… is that correct?
Sanding does not open pores but closes the pores. You cannot spot fix this and get it all to blend. You would have to remove all and start over. That would consist of stripping/sanding to remove and then a brightener after. You will need to get all the wood to an even porosity so the stain will go on evenly.
Ok, thank you. I’ll probably wait till next year to do this.
Hi there. We finished our treated lumber deck railing and pergola on July 1st. We are in Michigan and the deck is on the North side of the house. Technically it will be 3 months on October 1st and we are debating on if we should stand now or wait till spring. Any advice?
Either is fine. Waiting until Spring is not an issue.
Hello,
I am in the Northeast and have been rebuilding our deck over the summer. The deck is on the south side and does get full sun (when it’s out) all year. Due to the pandemic and PT shortage, I was only able to get about half of the deck boards delivered back in June. The rest just arrived last week. The original boards seem dry, turning golden brown and starting to show cracks. The new boards are heavy and wet. None of the boards have been installed yet. I plan to start installing in the next week or two. Being in the Northeast the staining window may be closing soon as it get’s cold.
By the time the new boards dry it will be November/December. So I guess my question is should I….
1. Install and let sit until spring? (I am worried about protecting the dry boards that are already cracking, warping)
2. Try to prep and stain during a warm spell in late November
3. Prep and apply a coat of semi-transparent stain on the dry boards now and a prep and stain the entire deck next spring. (protecting the dryer boards now)
If option 3 makes sense will I be able to get a consistent color/finish in the spring if the drier boards already had one coat applied and the recent wet ones did not?
Thank you,
Ed
Install and wait until Spring to prep and stain all.
I just finished building a new yellow pine deck and had a few questions. I’ve read through the comments to see if you answered elsewhere, but feel my question justifies a post.
We are 3-4 months into the weathering, so I’m planning to wait until spring to prep and stain. 1) Do you agree? The article mentions not sanding, but I’d really like to smooth out some areas. 2) Is the recommendation not to sand ever or just not right before you prep and stain? 3) If I can sand, should I do that now and let the wood open back up over winter? Or does it stay closed off indefinitely? 4) You have recommended the Armstrong stain several times, but I’m wanting to use the TWP. Does that work for my application? Or is there a reason you have recommended Armstrong over TPW for those cases?
Thank you for your time.
Yes, wait until Spring. Sanding is not needed unless you have raised grain after the prep in Spring. You can use the TWP, works great.
This was the best article I’ve found so far, thank you!
New cedar deck went up three months ago, I put one coat of tranparent oil based sealer on it and it stained blotchy. I didnt like the color so I removed it with a sealer remover. I then put the brightner on it. The railings just went up (three months after the deck). Its now September and its too cold in North Dakota to stain. I might have one good day left this week, and I’m concerned about leaving it over the winter.
After removing the old stain I have tons of fuzzies and the base looks white.
1. What courseness of sand paper to get the fuzzies off? Is buffing better?
2. Do I leave the fuzzies on now and let the deck sit through the cold winter and stain next spring?
3. Or do I remove the fuzzies and try to stain the deck on the one last day of the year. It barely gets over 70 degrees, and I’m concerned the deck wont dry.
4. Will it be ok to let it sit over the winter with fuzzies on and no stain now that I removed that first coat of sealer?
First deck project, didn’t realize I wouldnt be able to stain the deck this fall due to the weather. I wish to put an oil based semi translucent stain on it.
Please help! And thank you so much!
Julie
1. Buff or sand with 60-80 grit.
2. Do it all in spring.
3. Do in Spring.
4. Yes.
Hello,
Thank you in advance for your help! I live in Philadelphia PA, and finished building my deck on August 3rd this year. I know the rule is 3 months for it to dry before staining. Do you think The 2×4 pressure treated wood will be dry enough to stain around this November time considering weather will be cooler these next few months? Thank you!
Just do it in Spring.
I stripped, cleaned and brightened my two level deck in May. Live in TX and temps were too hot when I stained upper deck and it’s uneven. Do I need to re-strip, clean/brighten, and stain top deck? Do I need to re-clean/brighten and sand stairs and lower deck prior to staining?
Upper deck railings look fine, but only have one coat… will second coat look bad on top of it?
Looking at a weekend of highs in the mid 80s, and no rain. Just want to get this finished as it’s been hanging over my head for months and it’s finally cooling off!
Would appreciate any help at all!!!!!
Pictures and what brand of stain did you use?
Used Behr Premium. The deck is wet with morning dew, but tried to dry off where I took the pics. It’s chipping in only one place, and here’s an example of the unevenness.
Thank you!
You will have to power sand it all off to fix this. The issue you have is more or less related to the stain itself. It has major issues with application, peeling, etc: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
You may want to switch to a better brand.
Thank you so much for getting back to me. Is there a brand you recommend?
Also, do I need to do the clean/brightening again after I sand it all off?
Yes, final prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener. Try one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Hi,
We recently built a new deck with cedar decking, white not red, and as we were building we stained the underside and edges (between boards) of each board with olympic woodland oil, Kona brown. After completion, about 2 weeks ago, we decided it was too dark and we wanted a different colour so we stripped the inside and top edges using Thompson waterseal heavy duty deck cleaner for part of it and then, on the advise of a different person at our local building supply store, switched to techniseal deck stripper using both a brush and a pressure washer.
The wood seems quite dark and discoloured now and I have tried sanding parts of it with a palm sander to see if it would clean up but it seems very difficult to remove. I’m not sure if the discolouration is from water or the stripper or just the age of the wood itself. The container says the stripper may darken some wood species and says we may need to lighten surface with techniseal wood cleaner which I have not been able to find.
Also after the pressure washing I now have a lot of firring and some damage to the wood. I had always intended a good sanding but now I definitely need to do so.
I have a number of questions now as researching online seems to cause more confusion regarding this process which I am completely new at.
1.) Should I use one of these 2 products I have found which are supposedly both a cleaner/brightener in one. Circa 1850 dex wood cleaner & brightener (heavy duty cleaner, brightener and surface prep) or Thompson’s waterseal 3 in 1 wood cleaner (removes dirt, mildew, tanin, mill glaze and restores natural beauty) if you believe all of the print.
2.) Should I sand before or after I clean/brighten.
3.) Do I need to clean and then brighten in 2 separate steps or will using one of these products accomplish what needs to happen?
4. ) The cedar we used has been stored in a barn for about 15 years and was quite dusty/dirty but was dry. Do I need to allow the deck to “weather” before I do anything and if so, for how long?
It is September and we live in British Columbia with the weather soon to get dicey and winter fast approaching so I need to decide quickly what to do.
Any help you can give me is greatly appreciated.
Cindy
1. You must use a proper wood brightener to neutralize after stripping, not one that is a combo cleaner/brightener in one. Neither you mentioned will work.
2. Sand first.
3. See #4
4. Yes. See this about new wood decks: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Do the prep and stain in the Spring.
My New redwood deck was just completed two weeks ago and now it’s the first week of September in upstate New York. I want to seal/stain t before the cold weather comes and need to know if I should clean it with italic acid beforehand ? Also any recommendations on what seal/stain to use? Thank you!
You cannot stain it yet, needs to be weathered and prepped as the article above explains.
So I cleaned and brightened my deck with restore a deck yesterday not knowing it was going to rain today. Do I have to clean and brighten again because it rained (about 1/4”)or am I still ok to just wait 48 hours than stain?
No need to prep again. Stain when it dries.
Hello, we had a redwood deck built beginning of August in Denver. I have attached photos of the deck and what we were hoping to stain it to. So far the Cabot Clear and Redwood semi transparent on scraps have not been close. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Not sure what your question is but no, you cannot stain it yet as the article explains.
I just stained my deck with Olympic Maximum semi-transparent stain. What would be the best steps to take to change the color? Will using a deck cleaner remove or lighten recently applied stain? Should I wait a year or can it be done now?
You will need to strip and or sand to remove. A cleaner will not do it. Brighten after.
Hello, we just built a pool deck at our vacation property in July. The railing is rough cedar fence boards and the deck itself is fir. If I stain it all the last weekend of September, is that too soon? Once we get into October, the weather may prohibit us from going back to the property so that is that latest I can plan for 2020. Would it be better to wait until next Spring? Also, can I stain the rough cut railings earlier? If I did, would they be damaged later when I clean and brighten the deck boards? I’m planning on using Restore-A-Deck to clean, brighten and stain.
Thanks so much for your help!
You could do the rough sawn now but not the floors until Spring. Best to prep and stain all in the Spring. It will be much easier.
Hi Deck Stain Help,
We had a new deck installed in April 2020 here in Georgia. We were waiting a few months to stain and seal, as this is the standard from what we understood. However, it’s now only August 2020, and black (mold?) has started to appear already. We did notice that some planks of the deck wood seem to “hold” water longer after it rains than others. We were planning on cleaning, staining, then sealing, but with this now, what do you recommend? From your website, we have learned a bit about brightening…what exactly does this do and is this something we need to do? Is it clean, brighten, stain, then seal? Trying to become informed so we thank you for all your help and advice. Photos are attached. Thank you again.
Clean, brighten, and stain is correct. The prep will remove the mildew, graying, and mill glaze.
Deck type: new S4S cedar
Installed: May 2020
Deck direction: North facing
Sun exposure: in AM and PM May-Aug
Location: Pacific North Wets (Vancouver)
I have rebuilt my 400 sq ft deck with 6 1/4 round cedar decking. Not kiln dried. We added a glass roof that covers most of the deck while the outside edges do get wet in blowing rain. The deck is 4 feet above grade with dirt/fill under deck.
The added bonus of covered deck is to reduce rainfall on grade under deck that was wet all winter. We are north facing so mildew is a concern Nov. to March.
So now that the cedar is 90% covered from rain, how long should I wait to apply new semi transparent stain?
And what type, oil or water based? I have used Defy Extreme cedar tone on cedar fence and am happy with the ease of application, but find the colour slightly orange but not a deal breaker.
I am in Canada but would consider getting the good stuff south of the border.
BTW, love this website..!
GT
Pre and stain after 4+ months. Try TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark. They will soak in better.
Which protectant would you advise for new untreated pine? We are building a deck and have seen so many different things can you lay it out for us maybe step by step?
All the answer are in the above article and on this link for new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Any of the 3 above products would work after wait and prep.
Hey guys –
1. I am in the process of replacing new deck floor boards that were coated mult times with an exterior paint – the spindles and handrails were stained with a semi transparent so I was able to take those down to bare wood with a stripper and brightener.
2. I am going to wait 3 months to let the new floor boards weather and am planning on waiting to stain the handrails and spindles at the same time I do the new deck floor boards. Would you still recommend to use the cleaner and brightener in 3 months on the spindles and handrails prior to staining or just the brightener since I just stripped them recently?
3. Also, I am planning on only doing 1 coat of semi transparent on the deck floor boards since they are new – would you recommend to do 2 coats on the handrail and spindles that is not new wood or just do 1 in order to keep the floor boards and handrails looking the same from a stain perspective?
Thanks!
Best to clean and brighten all wood. Stain with just one coat on all wood as well.
I just had a new douglas fir T&G porch flooring installed. There is a roof, but 3 sides are exposed. My contractor said to seal with water based clear coat ASAP. I want to use a semi-transparent stain to darken the wood a little and provide UV protection for exposed areas.
1. How long should I wait to stain the deck? It absorbs water, so it’s dry enough.
2. It looks like one piece of wood has mold (see attached pic). What cleaning prep should i do before staining?
3. The underside is exposed as the roof to our first floor entrance. Should i protect that in anyway or does the wood need to breathe?
Thanks! I’m very confused and see lots of different advice…
1. No, you cannot stain or seal it now. The article above explains this.
2. The Restore A Deck prep kits will take care of this after the weathering.
3. No need to stain the undersides.
RAIN – After staining my old deck with solid coverage stain from Benjamin Moore called Arborcoat, it rained. First half of deck had about 4.5 hours of dry time and other half about 3.5 hours. Today, it looks fine. Can I put the second coat on 24 hours after the first coat that got rained on? Does stain need to be dry or must wood by dry?
You can put another coat on as long as the stain and wood is dry.
I just finished replacing the boards on a large 45’ x 25’ deck. I am in western NJ and the deck is in full sun in the summer and snow in the winter. I installed all 5/4 x 6 pressure treated boards. I started the project in September and completed 1/3 of the project. Because of the virus situation I was not able to get back to the project until July. Now I am finished. But 1/3 of the deck is weathered and the other 2/3 is new wood. I would like to stain the deck but I am not sure how to proceed. Do I stain the weathered 1/3 and then wait until the other 2/3 is weathered? Do I wait for the entire thing to get weathered? That would probably put me into next spring. Ultimately I would like it all to appear the same color.
I am interested in using Defy semi transparent stain.
Thank you, Tom
Do it all at once in 3+ months or longer is the correct way.
New composite deck installed. Used cedar for skirting around deck. Want to match the skirting color to the deck. Trying to decide to paint or stain the skirting. Do I need to wait if I use the paint
You will have to wait and prep no matter what. Use a semi-transparent stain.
Our deck was installed on 7/1/20. We live in WV, with temps upper 80s to low 90s. I did the water test, but still, want a professional opinion. When do you recommend us to stain and painting the deck?
As the above article explains, 3 months or longer is normal but this can vary based on the stain brand you choose.
I had a rough cedar pergola built right before Memorial Day but haven’t had any time to stain/seal it. Now I have time, but I am worried it’s to hot. The average temperature here is currently 90+ degrees, with high humidity. Should I just wait till the beginning of Fall/cooler temps or is it okay to stain/seal now?
Prep and stain in the Fall.
Is it okay to lay down a carpet on new deck while I wait for it to weather?
No, the wood needs to season.
We just completed the rebuilding part of our deck. A perfect project to do during Corona… We purchased our house last year and the deck was 20+ years old. We replaced the flooring (the joist were in good condition), the railing, and installed new steps. There is a pergola over the top that is also in good condition. We used cedar on the railings and pressure treated on the flooring. The pergola is 20-year-old cedar. We now are waiting for fall to stain. We have two different colors of wood…the older cedar is gray and the new treated lumber and cedar railing is new looking. I am wanting to stain the deck floor with a darker semi-transparent color. The cedar railing and pergola, I would like to stain white. When I go to stain the white, will it appear different on the two different colors of wood? What are your thoughts on white stain? I haven’t used white stain before, so I am wanting to find out what downfalls there may be before I commit to this.
Clean and brighten all for prep in the Fall. You will need a solid stain for the white. It will all blend.
How long do I need to wait between clean and brightening and staining?
Clean and brighten the same day. Stain 48 hours later unless using the RAD stain. That can be done same day if you want.
These articles mention that new wood decks need to “weather” for 3 months or so, to become dry and porous so that the stain will penetrate successfully. What if it periodically rains during that time? Do I need 3 months of absolutely sunny weather…?
The rain has no affect or makes it last any longer for the weathering.
Just finishing up a new deck. It’s made of pressure treated pine, see picture. I’m wanting to add a solid stain. How long would you recommend letting the deck weather before staining. Live in Little Rock Arkansas so its already hot out.
I was thinking that early Fall when its dry but temperatures are lower as a time to stain. How can I best determine if the wood is ready to take stain? Thanks for the site and the information and tips.
It will be fine for prep and one coat of stain in the Fall.
What about staining the ends, sides, and undersides of the new boards before the deck is built in place (with the plan to stain the deck surface after 3 months of weathering)?
No need to do that or any advantage. Just stain the exposed side.
Thank you!
How long should I wait to stain a new redwood deck? What stain would work best for a clear natural look? Deck gets sun all day…summers in Northern California in low 90s.
All answers are in the above article. You need a stain for UV protection. Clear will turn gray in months.
What stain or treatment is best on new deck. Looking to keep it clear. The natural colour
Try the Armstrong Clark: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/armstrong-clark-wood-deck-stain-review-2017/
Hi- We installed a pressure treated pine deck 10 months ago and are now ready to stain–very high traffic, it’s filthy. What cleaner and brightener do you recommend for the pine? Also, I love the look of semi-transparent but do you recommend a semi-solid with the soft pine? Can you recommend a brand/color for a natural cedar tone look?
Thank you!!
Use this for prep: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
Use a semi-transparent: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
I sealed my new pressure treated lumber deck last summer, this spring it has mold discoloration with lots of green. I have cleaned and power washed, but now need to do something to prevent the regrowth. Can i stain over the sealer? Should I use a different sealer?
Strip it off, brighten the wood, and then use a stain. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
We live in eastern Oregon. Last year we completely sanded down our 30+ year old redwood deck and then finished it with two coats of Flood CWF Oil. This spring it looked like it was already graying again, so we cleaned and brightened, then applied just one coat of CWF Oil. Disaster! There are areas where the oil hardly seemed to penetrate and others where it very shiny from oil sitting on the surface. So it looks all splotchy and is sticky in a lot of places too. What happened and how can we repair this?
Post a picture.
Here are a couple of pictures. The white specks are fallen cherry blossoms that are now stuck to the sticky surface. The pictures are taken with morning sun as the deck is on the east side of the house.
You will need to strip it all down and even possibly sand to get it all off. Brightener after. Start over with a better stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
What do you suggest for a “better” stain? This actually is not a stain, it is a transparent deck oil without any color. We don’t really want a tinted product because they just don’t hold up well with our hot dry summers and cold snowy winters.
What you have is a tinted stain that is oil-based. It has some color to it. Try the TWP or Armstrong Clark.
West facing Full sun Cedar steps in North Dakota, Built 3 years ago, not treated at all yet. Clean, brighten, and 1 coat stain? Then do the same the following year? Any of the stains you suggested better than the other for North Dakota weather?
Clean, brighten, two coats of stain. Armstrong Clark or TWP stains. Every 2 years.
I am building a pergola using rough sawn Doug fir in Colorado at 8,800 feet.
South facing, semi arid climate extreme UV.
Since it is rough sawn do I have to wait for it to weather?
I also understand from your articles that a somewhat darker stain would be better for high UV, correct?
I am also assuming the 3 stains above would all be good for what I am trying to accomplish.
Thank you,
Frank
No need to weather if rough sawn. Yes, all there above are good.
Hi,
I had a new cedar deck installed last June and let it weather and now want to stain it. I used a deck cleaner to clean it but notice that where the patio table base was sitting on the deck the wood didn’t weather like the rest of the deck and after cleaning I can still see where the patio table base was sitting. I’m concerned that if i stain it that spot will standout.
Do I need to try to continue to clean the deck until all the boards look the same or once I apply the stain will it not be noticeable?
@deck Stain Help folks,
Thoughts on my question?
Thanks!
You will have to remove the oxidation. Use a deck cleaner and then pressure wash off. Brightener after,
Thanks for your response! Previously I had used Wolman deck cleaner. We’ll give a different deck cleaner a try this time.
Our deck was built at middle of last November. It used pressure treated no2 south pine. We are at North Carolina triangle. Is it good for us to start stain it now? The weather is between 50-70 now but almost rains once a week. Is 3 days dry weather enough for the work? The deck is half shaded in the morning and sunny in the afternoon. Do we need to sand it? What stain shall we use?
Really appreciate your input.
Thx,
Sean
You can prep and stain now. No need to sand. Follow directions and suggestions on how to prep and stain in the above article.
Thanks a lot! We want to preserve original look of the wood . What stain will you recommend that last longer?
Any of the above will work. Just pick a lighter tinted color.
Hi and thank you for hosting this forum!
I recently added a WC Western Cedar deck back in December here in St. Louis Missouri. The deck gets about 85-90% sun, so we are about 4 months it has been out in the weather. Winter and spring have been normal. We are not into days in the upper 60’s to 70’s, and lows in the 50’s. it is about to change, and will be 80’s to 90’s very quickly.
I was preparing to seal it very soon when the nighttime temps stayed above 50’s,
I just had to have 5 boards replaced due to splitting, cracking, and some workmanship. So now I have weathered boards and new boards, 1 rail, and 4 deck boards.
3 Questions
1. What is the best way to seal it now with the new baords, just seal them all?
– Some of them are starting to grey a bit, see pic.
2. What is the best seal / stain for a natural Wet look?
3. it is spring, how long of a dry period do I need before the next potential rain hits?
Thanks again for the help, it is much appreciated!
Sincerely,
Adam H.
1. You should wait for the new wood to weather for 3 months.
2. Try Restore A Deck in Natural or TWP in Honeytone.
3. See #1
BTW cracks and splits in boards are normal. There is no way to prevent this and is not going to cause any issues to your deck if it happens.
Thank you for the response. I was very nervous about letting them weather and not staining the rest, thanks for clarifying.
The biggest issues were with some of the wood being raised and causing issues if you had bare feet with splinters, etc, and some workmanship issues where the wood was split all the way through and broken.
One more question….in 3 months it will be August, and it will be really hot and humid hear, my worry is that it will be too hot to do it then also….
Can it be too hot to stain a deck?
How long is to long to wait?
Thanks Again!
Adam
You can do it in the Fall when it cools down, it will be fine. 80-90 is the highest you should apply in.
Looking for that Natural Wet Look for my Western Cedar Deck, Restore a Deck in Natural you said, or TWP in Honeytone, is that still the way to go for that Natural Wet Look?
Yes, correct.
I have a new WC Western Cedar deck that was installed in December. I live in Missouri, weather has been average, winter was not super cold, spring temps are average, 50’s in evenings, 60’s & 70’s in the daytime. I get 90% sun on deck. So it has been weathering for 4 months, but now they are replacing several split boards, one on rail, 3 on deck, and 1 facing board.
I want to go with the natural wet look for a sealant. 2 Questions:
1. When should I seal now that I have new baords?
2. What is best sealant for this type of wood and to get that natural wet look?
Thanks, appreciate the site and the help!
Sincerely,
Adam
I have read your articles about waiting several months before staining new wood. I want to preserve the “new wood” color of pressured treated 5/4 deck boards and do not really want to stain them any deeper than is necessary, although understanding that the deeper color the better UV protection. So should i stain at all, or just plan to clean the wood every couple years? Is there a sealant without much color that you recommend to keep the wood from graying as long as possible? What’s my best compromise for a light colored stain, or no stain, or clear sealant while postponing UV graying? Thank you.
If you do not stain than the wood will gray within months. A clear sealer with no tint will not prevent UV graying. What you would like to do is not possible.
i had hoped that you would know of a non-transparent, or solid, stain in a light color that might do the trick.
Lighter colored tints will fade faster than a darker color. You could try Natural by Armstrong Clark.
We are installing a new deck with pressure treated pine. We are in Texas where April temperatures have been in the 80s for several weeks now. It will only get hotter. There will be a few showers, but those will also dry out quickly.
Given the Texas heat, do we still need to wait 3 months to stain our new deck? Or does that advice assume more northerly regions?
Yes, you have to wait. No way around it.
I have southern pine, both treated and untreated, delivered to my backyard yesterday. It is to be used to construct a simple lean to roof structure over an existing deck, then covered with metal. All wood components will be visible from underneath once finished. The plan is to stain each piece before construction begins so that it could done more easily and on the ground, then touch up as needed once constuction is completed. Obviously that allows no weathering period since the plan is to do it immediatley. Bad idea? What stain would you recommend? (I plan to prep and do the deck the same color after some modifiation and repairs,… after roof is completed)
It will not take very well but it also will not weather on the underside. Try Armstrong Clark Stains. Not their semi-solid colors.
Thanks for the reply but I can’t get that product anywhere near me and in a time crunch. Is there any product at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Sherwin Williams that I can get locally that you would suggest as second choice?
Sorry but nothing decent from a big box store.
Hi,
Just finished up my decking project using California Redwood Construction Common. We live in the Bay Area. I plan on letting it weather for 3 months, then prep and stain. My question is, what is the best stain for the wood we are using? I was looking at the RAD-Natural stain. Would that be the best option to keep it as close as poissble to the natural colors? Thanks in advanced.
The RAD would work well for this. Natural is tinted. Similar to a golden color or like a wet look after it rains.