This post was updated on April 8, 2026
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in new deck staining and prep. My new wood stain reviews and help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing, all designed to present you with the top product choices. See here for more info about me.
Want to Stain a New Deck in 2026? Read This First!
Every spring, I get hundreds of questions about when to stain a new deck, wood fence, or exterior wood home. This is one of the most frequently asked topics on DeckStainHelp.com. To make it easier for you, I’ve put together this comprehensive 2026 guide to staining a new deck, including the best stains to use and key steps for ensuring long-lasting protection. If you still have questions, drop a comment below, and I’ll be happy to help!
✅ How Long Should You Wait to Stain a New Deck? (Quick Answer)
Most new decks should be allowed to weather for 3–12 months before staining, depending on the stain brand, type of wood, and exposure. However, some kiln-dried or rough-sawn cut wood can be stained sooner after proper prep and moisture testing.
👉 Always ensure:
- Wood moisture content is below ~15%
- Mill glaze and oxidation is removed with cleaning/brightening
How Long Should you Wait to Stain a New Deck
My Pro Steps to Understanding New Deck Staining
1. Should I Stain the New Decking?
Yes! Staining a deck helps protect the wood from water damage, UV graying, and general wear and tear. However, it’s crucial to stain at the right time so the wood absorbs the stain properly and ensures long-term durability.
2. How Long Should You Wait Before You Stain a New Deck?
The waiting period depends on the type of wood used and the stain brand.
Pro Tip: Always follow the stain manufacturer’s directions when staining new wood, as they can vary drastically.
✅ When to Stain Based on Wood Type
- Pressure-Treated Pine:
Wait 3–12 months, depending on exposure and dryness - Kiln-dried (KDAT) wood: Needs one to two months before staining.
- Cedar & Redwood:
Wait 3–12 months, depending on exposure and dryness - Hardwoods (Ipe, Mahogany):
Wait 3–12 months, depending on exposure and dryness - Rough-sawn wood: Can be stained immediately if clean and dry.
Expert Tip: The biggest mistake homeowners make is staining too soon. Even if the wood looks dry, it may still contain excess moisture.
If you’re unsure what type of wood you have, post a picture in the comments section, and I’ll help you figure it out.
3. Weathering and Your New Wood Deck: Why Wait to Stain a Deck?
Most new wood needs time to weather before applying a deck stain. Many people assume this is solely to reduce moisture, but the main reason is wood porosity. Freshly cut wood has a smooth, dense surface that prevents stain from soaking in properly. Weathering breaks down this surface, allowing better absorption and preventing premature stain failure.
Exception: Rough-sawn wood does not need weathering since it is naturally porous and absorbs stain well.
✅ How to Know When Your Deck Is Ready to Stain
- Sprinkle water on the wood after the waiting period:
- If it soaks in quickly, it’s ready
- If it beads up, it needs more time
- Check moisture level:
- Ideally below 12–15%
- Look for:
- Faded or slightly rough wood surface
New Rough Sawn Wood
There is no need to weather or prep new-bought sawn wood. It is very absorbent and will not have a mill glaze. Just make sure it is clean, and you can go ahead and apply your wood and deck stain.
4. What Happens if You Stain a Deck Too Soon?
Staining too early leads to poor adhesion, meaning the stain will sit on top of the wood rather than penetrate it. This can cause blotchy results, fading from sun exposure, and peeling due to rain. The wood needs to be porous so that the stain can soak in and reflect your chosen color. If the stain doesn’t take, the color will fade in the sun and wash out in the rain.
5. How to Stain a New Deck: A Step by Step Guid
My new deck staining tips apply to all wooden exteriors, including decks, cedar-framed homes, log cabins, wood fences, and other structures.
✅ Quick Tips – How to Prep a New Deck Before Staining
- Allow the wood to weather based on wood type and stain brand being used
- Clean the wood to remove dirt, oxidation, and mill glaze
- Apply a wood brightener
- Allow proper drying time
- Test moisture content
- Apply stain evenly
Allow for Proper Weathering
- Follow the stain manufacturer’s guidelines. Recommendations vary between 1 to 12 months depending on the stain’s thickness and transparency.
- Thinner stains (transparent & semi-transparent) can be applied sooner.
- Thicker stains (semi-solid & solid) require a longer weathering period.
Prep New Wood for Staining
Once the deck has weathered, follow these steps to ensure proper absorption:
- Clean the wood: Use a high-quality wood cleaner to remove dirt, mildew, and oxidation.
- Brighten the wood: Applying a wood brightener restores the pH balance and opens the pores for better stain absorption.
- Let the wood dry: Wait at least 48 hours after cleaning before staining.
I recommend the Restore-A-Deck Cleaner/Brightener Kit for the best preparation results.
Pro Insight: Proper prep is just as important as timing—cleaning and brightening can make or break your results.
Sand the New Wood?
Sanding is not necessary unless you notice wood fuzzies or slivers after cleaning. If needed:
- Sand lightly with 60-80 grit sandpaper.
- Always follow up with a wood brightener after sanding.
Rinse well with a pressure washer when done.
Apply the Stain
- Use a single coat for new wood to prevent over-application.
- Avoid staining in direct sunlight or if rain is expected within 24 hours.
Follow Up With Another Coat after 1 Year
Be prepared to apply a maintenance coat in 12-18 months. The first coat on new wood won’t last as long as subsequent applications, so reapplying will enhance protection and color longevity.
6. My Recommended Wood Stain Brands for New Decks
Here are my top recommended wood stains for new decks:
Armstrong-Clark Wood Stains
Armstrong-Clark deck stains can be used on new wood and deck materials such as pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, IPE, and exotic hardwoods.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Two to three months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid colors
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.5/10
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains
Restore-A-Deck wood stain can be applied to dry or damp wood. It can be used on new wood and deck materials such as pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, IPE, and exotic hardwoods.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Three months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.625/10
| Image | Title | Price | Add to cart | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 | $51.99 | |||
 | Price range: $239.99 through $257.99 |
TWP 100 Pro Series Stains
TWP 100 Pro Series stains are only allowed in 35 states; use TWP 1500 stain if you’re in a low-VOC state. TWP 100 Pro Series stain can be used on new wood and deck materials, including pressure-treated pine and cedar.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Four to 12 months
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.69/10
✅ Tip: If you live in a low-VOC state, use TWP 1500 Series instead.
CUTEK Extreme Wood Oil
CUTEK® Extreme is a high-performance penetrating wood oil and stabilizer designed to protect exterior wood from the inside out while enhancing its natural beauty.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: 1-2 months
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One to two coats
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.63/10
| Image | Title | Price | Add to cart | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 | Price range: $114.99 through $669.89 | |||
 | $10.00 |
Best Water-Based Deck Stain for New Wood | The Easiest Applying Deck Stain for New Wood | Best Oil-Based Deck Stain for New Wood |
Months to Weather New Wood: 3 months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors. | Months to Weather New Wood: 2-3 months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid. | Months to Weather New Wood: 4 - 12 months for all TWP Series and Colors. |
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From: $47.99 *Free Shipping | From: $65.99 *Free Shipping | From: $58.99 *Free Shipping |
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My Video on Staining a New Wood Deck, Step-by-Step
7. New Wood Deck Staining Common Questions
What Happens if You Stain Pressure-Treated Wood Too Soon?
Like other types of wood, you can’t stain pressure-treated wood too soon. If you do, you will lose the stain, and your deck won’t be the color you hoped for. Even if the stain doesn’t wash off, it can dry on blotchy, and you won’t be happy with the result. The same applies to Cedar and Redwood Decks.
When Should You Avoid Staining a Deck?
- If the wood is wet or damp.
- Immediately after installation.
- When rain is forecasted within 24 hours.
Can You Pre-Stain New Wood?
- Smooth wood: Not recommended. Pre-staining will lead to adhesion issues.
- Rough-sawn wood: Yes, pre-staining is acceptable.
✅ Problems with Staining a New Deck Too Soon
- Poor stain penetration
- Blotchy or uneven finish
- Premature failure or peeling
- Reduced lifespan of the coating
Should You Stain All Sides of a Deck Board?
No. Sealing all sides traps moisture, leading to wood rot. Only stain the exposed surfaces after installation. Many people assume or ask if they should stain all sides of the decking boards. This is not a good idea, as it can 100% seal the wood, resulting in dry rot as the wood cannot “breathe.” You want to stain only the exposed wood after it is installed.
8. Questions on New Deck Staining
Still unsure about when or how to stain your new deck? Have questions about the best stain brands? Drop a comment below, and I’ll be happy to help!
FAQ – New Deck Staining
Can you stain a new deck right away?
In most cases, no. The wood needs time to dry and weather unless it is kiln-dried.
What happens if you stain the wood too soon?
The stain may not absorb properly, leading to premature failure.
How do you speed up new deck drying?
Proper cleaning and exposure to sun can help, but time is still required.
Should you clean a new deck before staining?
Yes, to remove mill glaze, oxidation, and improve stain penetration.
Can You Stain a New Deck Without Waiting?
Some newer products claim to work on fresh wood, but results can vary. Proper drying and prep are still recommended for best long-term performance.
Hi, love this site! I’m wondering about Tip#4- the maintenance coat. Do you need to clean and /or brighten the deck before applying the maintenance coat? If I do the first maintenance coat a year after the deck was initially stained, then how often after that do I do maintenance coats before it would again require stripping? Thanks for your help!
Yes, you always have to prep when recoating.
I have a bridge that I just replaced the planks with rough sawn ponderosa pine. Planks are 3″ X 10″ X 5′. They were cut at a local sawmill about 4 weeks ago and wood was pretty green. I cleaned them with a bleach solution and pressure washed them before I put them on because they got a little mold/mildew on them from how I had them stacked the first couple of weeks. The support structure underneath is the same wood installed 8 years ago but was still in good shape. It was treated with AC semi-transparent stain a couple of years ago (Driftwood). I want to clean/brighten and stain the entire bridge with the same stain as soon as I can. Do I need to let the planks dry out before I do that? Everything I see on your site and others about rough sawn wood says I can stain right away, but when I called the online dealer I purchased the AC stain from last time they told me I should wait 6-12 months before staining. I want the wood to last so just trying to clarify what I can/should do. Thanks!
You can stain right away if rough sawn cut. Just make sure wood is dry for a few days after rain or prep.
We are having a three season room built and the interior wall/ceiling finish will be tongue and groove western red cedar. We plan to use a simple/clear water protector/sealer. Can this be applied right away or should we let the wood weather naturally for a period of time.
You can apply right away since it is clear.
Hi, we bought a house that has an untreated pine fence. The boards are not pressure treat. It’s been up a year and has no fuzzies. We are in a hot dry area of Washington state. Any suggestions for stain would be appreciated.
Restore A Deck Stains or Armstrong Clark Stains.
If a newly installed deck is turning black in some areas should it be power washed immediately?
No need to prep until you are about to stain the deck.
We’re going to have an 8’ x 12’ deck built in Payson, AZ. It’s on the south side of the home with no protection from shade, rain, wind or occasionally snow. It will be built within the next 4 to 6 weeks. I’ve requested redwood for the deck and railing and the structural portion will be painted. You mentioned rough sawn needs to be stained immediately. Is redwood rough sawn? If not, are you suggesting it should be weathered for 3 or 4 months. Is that 3 to 4 months after installation which would take us into late fall? Please advise as to when to stain and which product to use to maintain as close to the natural color as possible. Thank you.
Most likely none of your wood is rough sawn cut so you will need to wait the 3 months or longer to prep and stain after install. Late Fall or Spring.
Thanks for your quick response. Just to clarify, once the deck has weathered for three months, then will it need to be cleaned and brightened then stained? Once stained, does it need to be sealed with a water proof product? I want the redwood to stay looking natural like the day it gets purchased. Please let me know the exact products you recommend to complete the project three months from now. Thanks so much!
Correct. Clean, brighten, and stain. You can never apply a sealer over a deck stain, it will peel.
Look at Restore A deck Prep products and their semi-transparent stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
Thank you. Seriously, this is the best website for information and answers to questions I’ve ever seen. Thank you for being a beacon of light 😀
You are welcome!
We replaced our wood deck last April. We used Cabot gold stain. It looked great at first. However, the picture shows what it looks like now. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Strip and brighten all wood with Restore A Deck prep kits and then use the TWP Stains or Restore A Deck Stains.
Some questions regarding a new western red cedar shed:
1) weathering wood before treating- is the weathering specifically ‘outside’ or from the time that it was cut (would have to ask manufacturer)?
2) temps for coating- I’m in MA and if I wait 3 months for it to weather, it will be in middle of winter. Is it ok to coat it then? Won’t it be too cold? What is alternative of how to go about this?
3) transparent vs semi-transparent cedar tone: how would these compare in appearance? It appears that the transparent coat doesn’t do well with protecting from UV but I’d like to maximize visibility of cedar’s natural features. By using a semi-transparent cedar tone, how much is being sacrificed of beauty for durability?
Thank you so much for your patience to help!!
1. After install outside is when you start.
2. Wait until Spring to prep and stain.
3. True semi-transparent stains will not mask or hide the wood grain and will offer better UV protection. Choose one of the brands we suggest above.
Thanks for your reply. Based on what I’ve read, however, cedar will start becoming grey after only a month or two. I’m concerned that by the time it is Spring, it will already have compromised its original rich natural color before it is even stained?
That is normal and okay. The prep will remove the gray.
Got it. Thanks again for your help. One final question (for now!):
Although the article states that weathering is NOT (just) to remove moisture, should I wait till late spring or even mid-summer to stain so that accumulated moisture from the winter will dissipate? Is there some ‘trick’ to test the moisture absorbed into the wood?
You will be fine to do in early or late Spring. It is not about moisture %.
New deck constructed in May, confused on the subject of staining and sealing and when to. Begin the process. Your articles are most helpful and informative .Excited to hear from you.
Hello,
The above article explains all of this. Please reread and follow that advice.
Have 19 year pressure treated fir deck with cedar top rails and bannisters. Has previously been stained with Olympic dark brown semi transparent stain. Held up particularly well on vertical surfaces… peeled and wore excessively on horizontal surfaces/deck. Need to replace a few boards and looking to strip and brighten deck and stain deck and other horizontal surfaces with an Armstrong Clark or TWP semi-solid stain, and recoat Olympic intact stain after pressure washing, for two tone affect. Live in SW Texas…deck gets Eastern exposure to sun most of the day. Good or bad ideas?
Do you have any pictures of current condition?
Pics show current condition…
Strip it all down with the Restore A Deck Stripper and both additives that they offer. Brightener after. Use the TWP Semi-Solids as they have more options for a two-toned deck. Here is a picture using their semi-solids.
Thank you appreciate the insight/advice…
We have a new aromatic red cedar pergola and pavilion – I don’t know if it is considered rough or smooth. Should I use twp product now or wait for it to season for a bit?
Rough sawn. You can stain it now. Use the TWP 1500 Series.
I tested our new cedar decking by putting water onto a section. The water beaded and was absorbed within 3 hours. Is this a sign that I can stain my new deck?
No. You have to weather and prep as the above article explains.
I have a trex deck 10 years old. Previous owner (bought house in2019) they used a Thompson sealer and hasn’t worn well. Was splotchy and sun faded. So, I scrubbed & cleaned the deck & hosed completely. I used a a Valspar one coat exterior sealer CLEAR. Went on well, however where I over lapped in some areas it looks like it has a yellow pollen . How can I correct this it’s not all splotchy ?
I tried buffing with fine steel wool…. Not working. HELP!,!
Thanks
You cannot spot fix this. You will need to remove all and start over. Never use steel wool a deck. It will metal that will rust and leave black spots in your wood.
Thank you
When you say start over, what exactly should i do? How do i prep the deck and with what product do you recommend?
Then what sealer do you recommend?
Strip and or sand to remove all, brighener after. Use TWP wood stains or Armstrong Clark Stains. See here for the best options for stain.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
New cedar planks were installed on My deck about a month ago. I would like to seal it and maintain its natural color. Do I use a transparent or semi transparent stain? A friend recommended Penofin. I’m new at DIY and need to use something that is not too difficult to apply but is effective.
Per article above, you cannot do this yet. It has to weather longer and then be prepped. Penofin has issues with turning black, we do not use them. Use a semi-transparent stain for best results when ready. See list of stains in article of what to use.
Have used Ready Seal Natural Natural stain and sealer in the past.
Think of using Restoring-a-deck cleaner/brightening kit to clean dirt and mildew off. We are in South Carolina with lots of shade.
Could I then use the Cedar Restore- a -deck stain while the deck is still wet over what was Ready Sealed and Stained previously?
No, you need to remove the RS so use the RAD Stripper/Brightener kit. Then use the RAD Stains.
I am in the process of installing new cedar deck boards. It has been recommended to me to stain the boards prior to install. Is that best, or should I let them weather. If staining prior to install, do I also need to clean them prior to staining? Thanks.
Do not prestain and do not stain all sides of the wood. The wood needs to breathe. Install, weather, prep, and stain the exposed wood.
Thank you.
My redwood deck was built in Sept 2019 and has been weathered. I would like to clean it and then stain it, but would like the natural color of the wood to show. Can you recommend what to clean it with and then what product to use to stain it. Also any recommendations on the best way to apply the stain? Thank you.
Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kits for prep. Stain with Restore A Deck Stain in a light color like Natural or TWP Stains in Honeytone.
I used a transparent stain on a cedar deck I built last summer. The product was Australian Timber Oil (Colour- Natural). The stain did not absorb well into areas where there are knots and defects. The clients would like the about 250 square feet of the stain job re-done at my cost. How can I avoid the same problem from happening? What caused this? I am aware that the knots in cedar are very dense and that would explain why it didn’t absorb well. Is there a solution that will work before I waste my time and money on the repair.
Directions above for weathering an prepping new will help going forward. To fix this, you will need to strip and then brighten and apply one coat of stain. Might want to switch stain brands as well.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
BTW, knots will stain lighter in color. It is the density of the wood there and it is normal.
I want to ultimately use solid color. Can I use transparent first?
No. No point as well.
Newly built deck, when should I stain it? They said it’s treated wood.
3-12 months and prep as article above explains.
Does the weathering of new wood for a deck actually have to weather after it is installed? Is it possible to allow the wood to weather and accept stain in a dry basement prior to installation? I will be installing a small 12×12 deck over a steel beam platform. The platform sits on top of a fourth floor brick extension to a brownstone in Brooklyn, NY. The only access to the platform is through a French window. It is not a location worthy of a worksite. Wood materials will have to be raised from the ground with ropes. I would like to do as much of the work as possible prior to hauling up the completed drop-in wood deck panels. Can I get away with creating and staining the panels following a “weathering” period where the wood has been stacked in tiers in my dry basement? thanks
It has to weather installed and fully exposed.
Do pigment stains last longer than transparent stains on a new pine treated deck?
The more color/pigment you have in stain, the better the UV protection from graying: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/darker-color-deck-stains-will-last-longer/
I recently had a deck built on 4/5/21
It’s just over a month using the brand yellow wood, I am now seeing what appears to be splitting of some of the deck boards, and two of the post. Is the normal part of the drying process?
Thanks
Yes, that is normal and not a big deal.
Would you recommend 30second cleaning before staining a wood deck that southern exposure ? We have just replaced a few boards that were rotted and need to clean and restain
the whole deck
30 second cleaner is garbage and is just bleach with some soap. Bleach is bad for wood. Use a proper deck cleaner and then brighten the wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-cleaners/
We are in Parker, Colorado. We had all new cedar fencing installed in November 2020. We were told to wait to stain/seal and have an oil based natural stain in mind to match our front panels which have done well with the product (Cabot Australian Timber Oil). Spring is here and we are noticing water bleed stains. Did not expect this! What do we do about the water stains? Thank you!!
There is no way to prevent this. Cleaning and brightening prior to staining will help to remove some of it and the stain will hopefully blend the rest. Might want to consider a better stain option as Cabot changed their formulas, and it is not as good as it used to be: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
great site, thanks. Especially like the way your answers quickly get to the point. Also that you name specific brands and products.
Thanks! 😀
One year old cedar fence. What transparent stain do you recommend. I stained the posts and the rails earlier with a semi transparent stain ( Behr )… is it OK to apply the clear stain over to speed up the work?
No, you cannot apply anything over the Behr, it will have to come off first. Once fully removed, try the TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark Stains.
…the cedar pickets are bare … only the 4×4 posts and 2×4 rails have a year old coat of Behrs waterbased stain and looks good, I was hoping to put a 2nd coat on these to save time and not have to block off.. but if I have to I have to. Thanks for the advice.
Hello, I’m in Central Oregon, high desert, mostly dry, sunny warm summers, not much rain, some snow in winter. Unstained reclaimed redwood deck. Aged through the winter. What products do you recommend?
Prep with Restore A Deck Products and stain with Restore A Deck stains or TWP Stains.
I built a linear-ish pergola last October using 5×5 white cedar fence posts and 1×6 white cedar deck boards (smooth). It has been weathering ever since, untreated, through a Massachusetts winter. I am planning to use TWP 1500 (unless advised otherwise!). Is a cleaner/brightener an appropriate step to take before staining, given that it is a vertical/elevated structure and has not been walked on or gotten especially dirty? It has definitely weather/lightened a bit in the last 7-8 months, but has stayed otherwise clean.
Yes, that is correct prep.
Last year we got our deck wood replaced. The knots on the pressure treated are coming off, review attached picture.
What should we do to prep it before we stain it this year. We are going to stain it ourselves as we did not like the shortcuts that were taken by the contractor.
We live in Michigan and the deck sees at least 10-12 hours of direct sunlight everyday,
Your guidance will be much appreciated
Clean and brighten the wood for prep using the Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Stains.
Thanks for prompt response. Should I use any kind of wood fillers ?
Replacing that deck boards is the best option ?
Never use wood filler on a deck. It will not stain to blend.
Knots falling out is not a big deal, just leave as is.
Hi. Just installed a new fence. I believe it’s redwood. The wood looks rough sawn. Is it? Should and can I stain it without waiting for it to weather? Also what would be a good semi-transparent product to apply?
If rough sawn, you can stain now. Try Restore A Deck or TWP stains.
Hello. I have a few questions… I have to replace a few deck boards and 2×4 fence stringer boards (both KDAT pine). 1) How long would you recommend until I can stain them? I am replacing some rotten pine fence pickets with rough cedar (5/8″). 2) How long should I wait to stain the new pickets? 3) Do I need to prep the pickets with cleaner and brightener first? I am using a solid stain for both the fence and deck and I live in NC.
Perfect. What would you recommend to apply the stain to the rough sawn? Do I need to invest in a sprayer? Thanks!
Stain pad or brush is best.
Should I use RAD Cleaner and Brightener for the rough sawn or can I just power wash and stain since they should absorb the stain easily?
You do not need to prep rough sawn if clean and dry.
Last fall we built a deck 10×40 with pressure treated wood. Do know we need to wait but am wondering how long of wait before we can start cleaning/brighten and then stain? Plan to use Cabot Oak Sun Drenched. The deck sits in the back and we dont get much sun maybe 3 or 4 hours the most on sunny days. We’re hoping to stain late spring early summer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Spring or Summer is fine. Make sure to prep and you may want a better brand of stain, Cabot has gone downhill since they sold the company and changed all their formulas.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I’m building a pergola out of new, smooth cedar in the very wet and rainy PNW. I understand that I need to let the wood weather for 3 months before applying my sealant of choice. Will the wood be alright sitting in the rain for three months, or does the term “weathering” primarily refer to UV light exposure?
It will be fine. Make sure to prep before staining.
Trying to see what kind of wood this is and how long to wait to stain with semitransparent stain
Pressure treated pine. You will need to follow directions in the above article.
I have a pine pressure treated deck that has weathered for over 2 years with no stain. It is graying but not excessively. Looking to stain this spring, any specific tips or stain for one that went that long with no initial stain?
Thanks for your time
Make sure to prep. Use a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. Stain with TWP Stains or Restore A Deck Wood Stains.
I built a deck using pressure treated pine on the second story of our house in Northern Alabama. It has been weathering since March 2020. I am preparing to order RAD semitransparent stain, along with the cleaner and brightener. Since the bottom of the deck will be visible to the patio below, should I double the square footage of the top side when calculating how much stain to buy? I assume I won’t need to stain the bottom side as often as the top, but how often would I need to reapply? Thank you so much for your help!
The only reason to stain the underside is for appearance. It does not have to be done. If you want to do it then yes, you will need to double your amount though you could probably get away with just one coat on the undersides.
Hi. We live in Northern Califonia and just replaced our very large, old deck with a new deck made of redwood. The deck is south facing and gets scorched in the summer, with temperatures often in the triple digits. What deck stain will last the longest and wear the best in these conditions. We need it to last as long as possible as re-staining will be a massive project. Thank you.
After wait and prep, try the TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark stains.
Thank you. I looked into each of these after your response to my original question and neither specifically mention how they hold up in extreme heat. Can you recommend any reading material on the subject of redwood deck stains that hold up in summer heat? Thank you.
They both hold equally well and with no issues in high heat.
Hi, we just had a new redwood fence built with “smooth and dried” boards. We live in the Bay Area and rain is forecasted in the next few days. Our contractor is suggesting we apply a clear protective coat to not let water penetrate the wood and keep it looking nice. Is this something we should do? What are the problems with staining it now?
No, leave it as is for now and then prep and stain in the Spring. If you do it now it will fail.
I re-built a pergola with wet douglas fir in mid September (it’s now mid January) in central California. We have had very minimal rain in drought stricken central valley, temperatures have been warm, generally between 50-75 throughout the fall. We would like to stain it very dark brown .. nearly black. We are not going to paint it because I don’t want to deal with future peeling and chipping and painting every couple/few years. I would prefer not sealing it either, if a sealer peels or chips.
1. Can I just stain it without sealing, and not suffer problems later?
2. If sealed, will I need to continue sealing or treating it, and if so how often?
Thank you for any insight you can provide.
You have to prep first. You never seal before or after using a wood or deck stain. Stain with TWP 1500 Series in Black Walnut or Armstrong Clark in Black Walnut.
I just recently built and deck and what to keep that look (not staining). How long should I wait and what should I use?
What you want to do is impossible. See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/clear-deck-sealers/
You have to stain the wood if you want to protect it from UV graying. Clear sealers will gray in months.
We bought our house two years ago tht has a small painted deck. It looked like it was in good condition. By the second year, the deck was peeling and it was clear that several of the floor boards had rot and the railing was in rough shape. Over the summer, I replaced all of the floor boards and railing with new PT wood. I kept the existing foundation and stripped off all of the remaining paint. The deck has been cleaned and brightened and I’m trying to figure out if it would be better to stain the deck before winter (I live in New England) to protect the old wood or to just wait until next spring to do the whole thing. What do you recommend?
Wait until spring.
I am replacing deck boards with new 2×6 cedar with grooves on bottom side. 10′ x 30′, full sun, rainy area next to a lake in Washington state. Should I stain all 4 sides before I install the boards? It is now November and I have already removed the old boards, and I cannot leave this area open for too long.
No, do not stain all sides. Install, weather the wood, prep, and stain just the exposed wood.
We live in Nashville and had a new pine deck built in May. A few of the boards are starting to show signs of spliting. Is it okay to wait until spring to seal and stain or would you recommend doing it now before winter?
Either would be fine. It will not harm the wood to wait and splits in decking is normal and cannot be prevented.
hello. I plan to build a new deck (48×16) in the next few weeks (we are in Quebec-Canada, early November, so winter is coming soon). I already bought my wood (western smooth red cedar 5.5 x 1.5 for decking and hemlock 7.5×7.5 posts and 2×10 joists for the deck structure). I plan to treat 3 sides of red cedar with Ready Seal oil based stain in the heat of my basement before installing and wait for next spring to stain the hemlock (not sure with what product yet…). Does this seem to be a good strategy or should i wait for next spring/summer to stain the cedar (so it is more porous) ? thx!!!
No, install now, wait until next Spring, prep and stain only the exposed wood.
You may want to change your stain as well. There are much better brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ready-seal-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
thx much for quick response. as for the choice of stain brand i went with ready seal as it was in your top 6 and i know it is available in canada… armstrong clark then ? (not sure if i can find it up here…)
We had new decks built a little Over a year ago. Unfortunately we haven’t had a chance to stain it. It doesn’t look like the weather is going to cooperate with us. Should we still try to stain it or can it wait through the winter we live in Iowa
You can wait if the weather does not cooperate.
Hi, I’m curious now…I never see redwood mentioned when you list decking woods? I thought it was fairly common. Is it not a good choice? Thanks!
Redwood is not as common these days as they do not cut as many of the trees and it is very expensive.
Thanks! I’ve started replacing an older redwood deck. Suppose I’m stuck now, unless there’s another comparable wood to continue with.
I just finished installing a new cedar tongue and groove horizontal fence. One side is rough sawn. The weather here in southwest Pennsylvania is turning cooler with highs in the mid 50’s and lows in the mid 30’s. I have cleaned the wood with tsp and then brightened with oxalic acid. I’ve been doing research on staining and have found conflicting information with regard to weathering of the new wood. I’ve been leaning towards products such as Wet Wood Stain and DRP Best because of the temperature and lots of rain. These products say they can be applied in these condition with optimal results, but then I came across your site which says to wait. I am concerned with waiting until the spring time to stain and how much graying if any will occur and the prep work to bring it back to its present state. When the fence is wet either by rain or me spraying it absorbs the water and seems to dry fairly quick. All of the T&G material I’ve used for the project has been stored indoors. The dimensional lumber is rough sawn and stored outdoors but covered.
What would you recommend for my application from the above information? Would it be better to wait until spring and apply a “true” oil based product. Do these damp and wet wood “hybrid” products compare in wearability to true oil based products? Are higher VOC oil based products better to use if available? Lastly, I’d like to like to apply the lightest stain as possible to accentuate the natural state of the wood and still provide optimal UV, mold, mildew, and algae protection. Your thoughts?
Spring for sure. Prep and stain then. Use one of the top brands in the above article in their lightest tint. You would need the TWP 1500, not the 100 for PA.
What are the pros and cons of the 1500 vs. 100? Also, why not use one of the wet wood products? There is a small section of the project I need to stain now since I have to build a shed in this area and I really would, at least, like to stain this area so I don’t have to take the shed apart in the spring to do so. So, with that being said, under these circumstances what would you recommend?
The ones you mentioned are poor. If you want an all in one deck stain then use the Restore A Deck Stains. No pros or cons with the TWP 100 vs 1500. Just different VOCs.
Can I stain now with adequate results?
No, needs to weather and be prepped.
Thank you
Product question -in the process of researching what to do for our cedar ceiling in the screened porch, I ran across a company called PermaChink. Most products seem to be for log homes but they do have a deck stain. Do you know anything about them?
Yes, but they are mostly for log cabins and wood homes. Never used their deck stain. Consumer feedback has been average at best on this site.
Good to know. Thanks!
Hi- do your deck staining tips (weathering, product type/ brand, preparation and process, etc) apply the same for screened porch cedar ceilings? We have a new screened porch with natural cedar ceiling. We love the natural look but feel like we need to protect it. Really helpful website. Thanks in advance!
Yes, but it will not weather there as much so the prep would be more for removing the mill glaze on new smooth wood.
Makes sense. Thanks!